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 N O V E M B E R & D E C E M B E R 2 019

PAGE 21

PAGE 10

PAGE 12 PAGE 4 PAGE 20 PAGE 8

2 Quick Tips 12 Silky, Elegant—and 20 Swiss Chard and

Quick and easy ways to perform everyday tasks,
from freezing pie dough to cutting butternut
from a Can Kale Gratin
Soup made with canned beans is convenient For a new holiday side, we gussy up greens
squash. COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO
and satisfying. But can it be sophisticated, too? with a touch of cream and a crisp topping.
4 Why (and How to) Surprisingly, yes. BY ANNIE PETITO BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN

Roast Duck 14 The World’s Cutest Cookie 21 Yule Log Revival

Rich and dark inside and out, duck is—as Julia These Lilliputian Italian hazelnut-chocolate sandwich A fluffy, tender cake that rolls effortlessly around
Child once said—“a bird of a different feather cookies are utterly charming—but only if they’re a plush, stay-put filling, and most of the work can
entirely.” That’s also true when it comes to perfect. Our approach makes it easy to get them be completed days in advance? It’s a Christmas
cooking it properly. BY LAN LAM just right. BY STEVE DUNN miracle. BY ANDREA GEARY

6 Spiral-Sliced Ham 16 No-Fuss Party Appetizers 24 Choosing a Cookware Set

Done Right
Our ham is moist and juicy—and every bite
benefits from the flavors of the glaze.
BY STEVE DUNN
7 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes 18 Why You Should Make
These spuds come in assorted shapes and sizes.
How do you cook them evenly?
BY ANNIE PETITO
8 Classic Bubbly Cocktails
Whether you want to splurge or save, here’s
how to make cocktails that sparkle.
BY LAN LAM WITH LAWMAN JOHNSON
10 The Most Impressive
Baked Pasta
A triple-decker composition of tubular pasta,
spiced meat sauce, and lush béchamel, Greek
pastitsio is king among casseroles—and often
a royal pain. BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN
Don’t shortcut the cocktail hour just because you’re
preparing an elaborate meal. These easy bites will
impress and still allow you to enjoy the party.
BY ELIZABETH BOMZE
Garlic Confit
Silky, nutty-tasting garlic confit is a faster stovetop
alternative to oven-roasted heads—without any
of their mess or waste. And it yields a valuable
byproduct. BY ANNIE PETITO
Join Our Community of Recipe Testers
Our recipe testers provide valuable feedback
on recipes under development by ensuring that
they are foolproof in home kitchens. Help Cook’s
Illustrated investigate the how and why behind
successful recipes from your home kitchen.
Sign up at AmericasTestKitchen.com/recipe_testing.
Our advice has always been to buy the best
individual pans. A few innovative sets compelled
us to take another look. BY LISA McMANUS
26 Finding the Best Sushi Rice
We tasted eight versions of this versatile staple in
search of a product that balances fluffiness with
chewiness and a hint of stickiness.
BY LAUREN SAVOIE
28 Ingredient Notes
BY HANNAH CROWLEY, STEVE DUNN,
ANDREW JANJIGIAN, LAN LAM &
ANNIE PETITO
30 Kitchen Notes
BY STEVE DUNN, ANDREW JANJIGIAN,
LAN LAM & ANNIE PETITO
32 Equipment Corner
BY MIYE BROMBERG, RIDDLEY
GEMPERLEIN-SCHIRM & KATE SHANNON

America’s Test Kitchen, a real test kitchen located in Boston, is the home of more than 60 test cooks and editors. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand
exactly how and why they work and eventually arrive at the very best version. We also test kitchen equipment and taste supermarket ingredients in search
of products that offer the best value and flavor. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (AmericasTestKitchen.com) and Cook’s Country (CooksCountry.com) on public
television and listen to our weekly segments on The Splendid Table on public radio. You can also follow us on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, and Instagram.
 E D I TO R I A L STA F F LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Chief Executive Officer David Nussbaum
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Editor in Chief Dan Souza
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Deputy Editor Rebecca Hays

CRUISE NIGHT
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Managing Editor Elizabeth Bomze
Deputy Food Editor Andrea Geary
Senior Editors Andrew Janjigian, Lan Lam
Senior Content Editor Kristina DeMichele
Associate Editors Steve Dunn, Annie Petito

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Executive Editors, Tastings & Testings
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M
y dad’s not much of a music lover. for our holiday tables. Ever since I started cook-
He doesn’t have a beloved album ing in earnest, I’ve insisted on experimenting with
collection or a list of favorite sing- dishes around the holidays—sometimes successfully,
ers and, to the dismay of all pas- sometimes not. In fact, the act of adding something
sengers, prefers to drive in silence. But there’s different to our Christmas dinner spread has become
one day of the year when all that a tradition in itself. I’ll be (success-
changes: Christmas Eve. When my fully) adding a lot of new dishes to
sister and I were little, he started the menu this year, all thanks to the
a tradition: After Christmas Eve issue you are now reading.
dinner, he’d pop us both in the To kick off the meal, I’m mak-
back seat of his Pontiac, crank up ing a Goat Cheese Log with
Elvis’ Christmas Album, and drive Hazelnut-Nigella Dukkah (page 16)
us from neighborhood to neigh- and Black Olive Tapenade (page 17)
borhood to look at Christmas from Elizabeth Bomze’s guide to
lights. As Elvis crooned and we top-notch no-fuss party appetiz-
cruised down winding country ers. I might need to add savory
roads, around cul-de-sacs, and by Garlic and Parmesan Cheese Coins
the town common, we’d all give (page 19)—the perfect marriage of
commentary on the quality and DAN SOUZA cheese and crackers—to the appetizer
quantity of decorations (I always Editor in Chief spread because I can’t stop making
marveled at the houses that went Annie Petito’s quick, silky Garlic Confit
for all blue lights). Eventually the serpentine roads (page 18). Instead of turkey, I’ll be following Lan
and my dad’s enthusiastic right foot would get Lam’s advice and innovative recipe for roasting two
the better of me and I’d feel carsick. Time to head rich, dark, succulent ducks (page 5)—a move sure to
home? Certainly not. My dad would open the please my family of dark meat lovers. But if the ducks
windows and sunroof to allow fresh air in and then don’t steal the show, I know what will: Andrea Geary’s
blast the heat to keep us all just left of hypother- easy-to-roll, stunning Caramel-Espresso Yule Log
mia. On those nights everything was blue—“Blue (page 23), complete with a chocolate-pistachio for-
Christmas,” blue lights, blue lips. est floor crumble and meringue bracket mushrooms
Popular religious and cultural traditions tend for the most realistic (and delicious) effect. I might
to get all the attention around the holidays. But even consider something new for Christmas Eve din-
it’s the small, idiosyncratic family rituals—the blue ner, but whatever I decide to cook, it’ll need to be
Christmas Eve Pontiac cruises—that really stick with quick—everyone just wants to get in the car, drop the
us. I think that’s also true for the food we choose windows, and turn up the King.

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ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

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n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
1
 Reusable Cover for
Cooked Steaks

QUI C K TI P S
Instead of wasting a sheet of alumi-
num foil to tent steaks as they rest
after cooking, John Sturtz of Seoul,
South Korea, uses a disposable
aluminum pan. Like foil, the pan sits
gently on top of the meat to help
keep it warm, but it’s reusable and j COMPILED BY ANNIE PETITO k
easy to clean.

Reusing Parchment Paper

After using parchment paper to bake
a batch of cookies or biscuits, Sheryl
Ward of West Bend, Wis., finds that
there’s still plenty of life left in the
parchment. She folds it up, puts it
in a zipper-lock bag, and stores it in
Truss Poultry the freezer until she is ready to use it
with Foil again. This keeps any oil residue on
When Alicia Woods of Vancouver, British Columbia, needed to truss a chicken the paper from going rancid.
but had no kitchen twine on hand, she came up with a great stand-in: aluminum
foil. She twisted the foil into a rope that she then used to tie the bird’s legs
together for more even cooking.

Extra Mixing Bowls

for Faster Baking
Patten Layman of Weymouth, Mass.,
purchased extra bowls for his stand mixer
and workbowls for his food processor
so that he doesn’t have to stop to wash
dirtied vessels during holiday baking
sprees. The extra equipment allows him
to whip up multiple batches of baked
Use a Wire Rack
goods in less time.
for Neater Slicing
Brian Arthmire of Worthington,
Ohio, has found that a wire cooling
rack makes it easy to evenly slice
raw steak for stir-fries. He lightly
presses the top of the rack into the
meat and uses the indentations,
Dry Bakeware in the Oven which are spaced ½ inch apart,
After completing a baking project, as a helpful guide.
Sadie Stehlik of Marlborough, N.H.,
places washed baking sheets, wire
racks, loaf pans, and muffin tins
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

upside down in her still-warm oven

to dry, saving space in her dish rack.
To remind herself that the oven is
occupied before turning it on again,
she places a note on its door.

SEND US YOUR TIPS We will provide a complimentary one-year subscription for each tip we print. Send your tip, name, address, and
telephone number to Quick Tips, Cook’s Illustrated, 21 Drydock Avenue, Suite 210E, Boston, MA 02210, or to QuickTips@AmericasTestKitchen.com.

cook’s illustrated
2
Eliminating Cracks in Frozen Pie Dough
To get a leg up on holiday baking, Rachel Della Valle of Durham, N.C., likes to make pie dough in advance and freeze it. Since Alternative Cake Cover
freezing pie dough in a rolled-out round takes up valuable freezer space, she rolls up the round. But when she unrolls the If you don’t own a cake cover, try
thawed dough, it often cracks. Her fix: After rolling out the dough on a piece of parchment paper, she folds the edge of the this alternative from Cheryl Herbert
parchment closest to her to cover the edge of the dough, places a chopstick on the fold, and rolls the dough around the chop- of Plainfield, N.J.: Simply invert the
stick. She then wraps the dough roll tightly in plastic wrap and freezes it. The chopstick supports the roll as it freezes and thaws outer bowl of a salad spinner and
to prevent any cracks. set it over the cake.

Simple Homemade An Easier Way to Cut Hard Squash

Gift Bags To halve a large winter squash, Laura Scheibel of Lee, N.H., runs a wide citrus zester/channel knife lengthwise along the
Cookie swaps and small gifts of tough skin. This creates a groove in which she can easily place her knife before applying pressure to split the squash.
baked goods are beloved holiday
traditions, but buying all those
containers can get expensive. Nancy
Merritt of Severna Park, Md., came
up with this alternative: fashioning
“baskets” out of brown paper lunch
bags. She simply traces a handle
onto the bag and then cuts it out.
A few staples, some ribbon, and a
personalized gift tag complete the
rustic but charming package.

Indoor Uses for Grill Tongs

Carrie Maloney of Evanston, Ill., has found that her long (16-inch) grill tongs aren’t just for grilling. They’re handy indoors,
too: She uses them to keep her hands and forearms clear of splatter while browning batches of meat, to grab lightweight
pantry items such as cereal boxes off high shelves, and to reach deep into the oven to rotate a pizza or grab items such as
foil-wrapped beets.

n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
3
 Why (and How to) Roast Duck
Rich and dark inside and out, duck is—as Julia Child once said—“a bird of a different
feather entirely.” That’s also true when it comes to cooking it properly.
j BY LAN LAM k

T
o all the dark meat lovers out there:
You’ve been roasting the wrong bird.
All due respect to succulent chicken and
turkey leg quarters, but they make up only
a fraction of the whole bird, which is why you should
consider roasting duck. It’s all dark meat, since both
the breast and leg portions are well-exercised muscles
with ample fat, and it’s imbued with a sultry, bass-note
richness that chicken and turkey just don’t have. The
duck’s breast is also relatively flat, which enables its
skin to brown remarkably evenly, and it’s versatile for
entertaining: Pair one bird with a bright sauce and
you’ve got an intimate dinner party showpiece. Roast
two—doable in one pan—and you can feed a crowd.
Here’s the catch: The qualities that make duck
special to eat also make it a challenge to cook well.
But I’ve got an approachable method all figured out.
Allow me to explain.

What Makes Duck Different

Think of duck as the “red meat” of poultry. Its
dark crimson color and rich, assertive flavor—even
in the breast meat—come from the myoglobin in
its abundant red muscle fibers, which are necessary
for endurance activities such as flying. (Turkeys
and chickens have fewer muscle fibers because they
perform only quick bursts of flight.) Duck is also
much fattier than other poultry: Its edible portion
(meat and skin) contains about 28 percent fat, while
the edible portion of a chicken contains between
2.5 and 8 percent fat. Most of that fat builds up as a
thick layer of subcutaneous padding that adds to the
bird’s insulation and buoyancy in the water. Finally,
Crosshatching the skin through the fat allows salt to penetrate the meat, seasoning it and helping it retain juices.
It also creates channels for rendered fat to escape, as well as edges that crisp.
penetrate more deeply over a 6-hour rest. Salting breast meat reaches its target doneness temperature
the duck helps keep it juicy and thoroughly seasons of 160 degrees. The upshot: a superbly flavorful,
the rich meat to highlight its full flavor. perfectly cooked holiday centerpiece that your guests
are sure to remember for a long time to come.
Use a Two-Stage Cooking Method
Cooking duck presents the same familiar challenge
as cooking other types of whole poultry: getting Tips for Crosshatching
the breasts and legs to cook at the same rate. But

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE

duck breasts are thinner, flatter, and blockier than
other poultry breasts, and their wings are longer.
The breed you’re most likely to find in supermar-
kets, Pekin, weighs a pound or so more than an
average chicken.
The Importance of Proper Prep
Because duck is so fatty, it’s important not only to
trim it thoroughly of excess fat around the neck and
cavity but also to treat its skin like the fat cap on a
pork or beef roast and score it extensively. These
channels, which I cut into the breast as well as the
thighs, also allow the salt rubbed over the skin to
S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19
because duck breast is thinner than chicken or
turkey breast, it cooks through even more quickly
than they do, making it even more of a challenge
to get the tougher legs and thighs to turn tender
and succulent before the breast overcooks and
dries out.
My solution: Give the leg portions a head start
by braising them. I do this by submerging the
bottom half of the ducks in water in a roasting 1. USE THE TIP OF YOUR KNIFE This
pan and vigorously simmering them on the stove allows you to feel exactly where you’re cutting.
until the leg quarters register 145 to 160 degrees. 2. MAKE MULTIPLE STROKES PER CUT
Meanwhile, because the breasts don’t have contact Because it’s tricky to cut to exactly where the
with the water, they cook more slowly and reach fat hits the meat, first slice through the skin and
only 110 to 130 degrees. At that point, I move the some fat, and then run the knife tip through the
birds to a V-rack, glaze them, put them back in the slit to get down to the meat.
roasting pan (emptied of braising liquid) and move 3. TRY NOT TO NICK THE MEAT If you
them to the oven. The leg quarters are far enough do, dark juices can leak and stain the bird.
along that they will turn tender by the time the

cook’s illustrated
4
 WHOLE ROAST DUCKS
WITH CHERRY SAUCE
SERVES 8 TOTAL TIME: 3 HOURS, PLUS 6 HOURS SALTING
Pekin ducks may also be labeled as Long Island
ducks and are typically sold frozen. Thaw the ducks
in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Use a roasting pan
that measures at least 14 by 12 inches. This recipe
was developed with Diamond Crystal kosher salt. If
using Morton kosher salt, use 25 percent less. Do not
thaw the cherries before using. If desired, pulse the
cherries in a food processor until coarsely chopped.
In step 4, the crumpled aluminum foil prevents the
rendered fat from smoking. Even when the duck
is fully cooked, its juices will have a reddish hue.
For carving instructions, see page 31. For ideas on
how to use duck fat and extra duck meat, informa-
tion on how to reheat leftovers, and our recipe for
Duck Stock made with the braising liquid, go to
CooksIllustrated.com/duck. Our recipe for a single
Whole Roast Duck with Cherry Sauce is available for
free for four months at CooksIllustrated.com/dec19.
Ducks
2 (5½- to 6-pound) Pekin ducks, necks and
giblets reserved if making stock
¼ cup kosher salt, divided
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Cherry Sauce
⅓ cup maple syrup
¼ cup red wine vinegar
4 teaspoons soy sauce
2 teaspoons cornstarch
½ teaspoon pepper
2 sprigs fresh thyme
18 ounces frozen sweet cherries, quartered
1. FOR THE DUCKS: Working with 1 duck at a
time, use your hands to remove large fat deposits from
bottom of cavity. Using kitchen shears, trim excess
neck skin from top of breast; remove tail and first
2 segments from each wing, leaving only drumette.
Arrange duck breast side up. With tip of sharp knife,
cut slits spaced ¾ inch apart in crosshatch pattern in
skin and fat of breast, being careful not to cut into
meat. Flip duck breast side down. Cut parallel slits
spaced ¾ inch apart in skin and fat of each thigh (do
not crosshatch).
2. Rub 2 teaspoons salt into cavity of 1 duck. Rub
1 teaspoon salt into breast, taking care to rub salt
into slits. Rub 1 tablespoon salt into skin of rest of
duck. Align skin at bottom of cavity so 1 side over-
laps other by at least ½ inch. Use sturdy toothpick
to pin skin layers to each other to close cavity. Place
duck on rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with second
duck. Refrigerate uncovered for 6 to 24 hours.
3. Place ducks breast side up in roasting pan. Add
water until at least half of thighs are submerged but
most of breasts remain above water, about 14 cups.
Bring to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to main-
tain vigorous simmer. Cook until thermometer
inserted into thickest part of drumstick, all the way
to bone, registers 145 to 160 degrees, 45 minutes
to 1 hour 5 minutes. After 20 minutes of cooking,
adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat
oven to 425 degrees. Stir maple syrup and soy sauce
together in bowl.
4. Set V-rack on rimmed baking sheet and spray
with vegetable oil spray. Remove roasting pan from
heat. Using tongs and spatula, lift ducks from pan one
at a time, allow liquid to drain, and transfer to V-rack,
breast side up. Brush breasts and tops of drumsticks
with approximately one-third of maple syrup mixture.
Flip ducks and brush remaining mixture over backs
and sides. Transfer braising liquid to pot or large bowl
to cool. (Once cool, defat liquid and reserve liquid
and/or fat for another use, if desired.) Rinse roasting
pan and wipe with wad of paper towels. Crumple
20-inch length of aluminum foil into loose ball.
Uncrumple foil and place in roasting pan. Set V-rack
on foil. Roast until backs are golden brown and breasts
register 140 to 150 degrees, about 20 minutes.
5. Remove roasting pan from oven. Using tongs
and spatula, flip ducks breast side up. Continue to
roast until breasts register 160 to 165 degrees, 15 to
25 minutes longer. Transfer ducks to carving board
and let rest for 20 minutes.
6. FOR THE CHERRY SAUCE: Whisk maple
syrup, vinegar, soy sauce, cornstarch, and pepper
together in small saucepan. Add thyme sprigs and
bring to simmer over medium-high heat, stirring
constantly with rubber spatula. Continue to cook, stir-
ring constantly, until mixture thickens, 2 to 3 minutes
longer. Stir in cherries and cook, stirring occasion-
ally, until sauce has consistency of maple syrup, 5 to
8 minutes. Discard thyme sprigs and season with salt
and pepper to taste. Transfer to serving bowl. Carve
duck and serve, passing sauce separately.

PREP BRAISE, THEN ROAST

1. Using kitchen shears, trim excess 2. Remove tail and first 2 segments 1. Place ducks in roasting pan and 2. Using tongs and spatula, lift ducks
neck skin from top of breast. from each wing, leaving only drumette. add water to submerge thighs at least from pan one at a time, allow to drain,
halfway. Simmer until thickest part of and transfer to V-rack, breast side up.
drumstick registers 145 to 160 degrees.

3. With tip of sharp knife, cut cross-
hatch pattern in skin and fat of breast.
Cut parallel slits in skin and fat of each
thigh. Rub salt into cavity and deep into
scored skin and fat.
4. Align skin at bottom of cavity so
1 side overlaps other; use toothpick to
pin layers to each other to close cavity.
Repeat steps 1 through 4 with second
duck. Refrigerate for 6 to 24 hours.
3. Brush breasts and tops of drumsticks 4. Roast until breasts register 140 to
with one-third of maple syrup mixture. 150 degrees. Flip ducks and continue to
Flip ducks and brush remaining mixture roast, breast side up, until breasts regis-
over backs and sides. ter 160 to 165 degrees.

n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
5
 Spiral-Sliced Ham Done Right
Our ham is moist and juicy—and every bite benefits from the flavors of the glaze.
j BY STEVE DUNN k

M
any recipes for spiral-sliced 1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position
ham—which has been and heat oven to 250 degrees. Line rimmed baking
injected with or immersed sheet with aluminum foil and set wire rack in sheet.
in a brine of water, cur- Unwrap ham and, if necessary, discard plastic disk
ing salt, and a sweetener; fully cooked; covering bone. Place ham cut side down in oven
and smoked by the manufacturer—call for bag. Insert temperature probe (if using) through top
heating the ham in a roasting pan covered of ham into center. Tie bag shut and place ham cut
in foil in a 325-degree oven. But I found side down on prepared wire rack. Bake until center
this approach to be flawed: By the time the registers 110 degrees, 3½ to 4½ hours.
center of the meat is warm, the exterior is 2. Bring sugar, water, and corn syrup to boil in
certain to be parched. large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high
Then there is the sweet glaze that is tra- heat. Cook, without stirring, until mixture is
ditionally painted onto the ham. It’s a great straw-colored, 6 to 8 minutes. While sugar mixture
contrast to the smoky, salty meat, but I’m cooks, microwave vinegar in bowl until steaming,
always disappointed that it flavors only the about 90 seconds; set aside. Once sugar mixture is
very edge of the thin slices. What’s more, straw-colored, reduce heat to low and continue to
many recipes call for returning the ham to cook, swirling saucepan occasionally, until mixture is
a hot oven for 20 to 30 minutes to help the dark amber–colored and just smoking and registers
sugary glaze caramelize and set, a surefire 360 to 370 degrees, 2 to 5 minutes longer. Off heat,
way to further desiccate the exterior. add warm vinegar a little at a time, whisking after
I had a better way: I slid the ham into each addition (some caramel may harden but will
an oven bag and placed it in an oven set to melt as sauce continues to cook). When bubbling
just 250 degrees. The gentle heat warmed subsides, add pepper and five-spice powder. Cook
the interior and exterior of the ham at a over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until
similar rate. Meanwhile, the bag trapped reduced to 1⅓ cups, 5 to 7 minutes.
juices, creating a humid environment that 3. Remove sheet from oven and increase oven
transferred heat more efficiently than dry temperature to 450 degrees. Once oven reaches
air. In fact, when we compared two hams temperature, remove ham from bag and transfer
heated at 250 degrees—one in an oven We make plenty of caramel glaze and then thin some of it with to carving board. Reserve ¼ cup juices from bag;
bag and one covered in foil—the bagged ham juices to create a sauce to accompany the smoky, salty meat. discard bag and remaining juices. Remove wire rack,
ham came to temperature 25 percent (or leaving foil in place, and return ham to sheet, cut
1 hour) faster than the foil-covered one. (That’s not drizzled onto the slices so that every bite—not just side down. Brush ham evenly with ⅓ cup caramel.
just because an oven bag speeds cooking; since foil the ones on the edge—would taste just right. Transfer sheet to oven and cook until glaze is bub-
reflects heat, it actually slows down cooking.) bling and starting to brown in places, 5 to 7 minutes.
To fix the issues with the glaze, I started by mak- SPIRAL-SLICED HAM GLAZED Add reserved juices to remaining 1 cup caramel and
ing a generous amount of caramel on the stovetop; WITH CIDER-VINEGAR CARAMEL whisk to combine.
augmenting it with cider vinegar, pepper, and SERVES 12 TO 14 TOTAL TIME: 4¼ TO 5¼ HOURS 4. Slice ham and serve, passing caramel sauce
five-spice powder; and brushing some of it onto separately.
the ham. With the caramelization step taken care We recommend a shank-end ham because the bone
of in advance, the ham needed only 5 minutes in a configuration makes it easier to carve; look for a half
450-degree oven for the glaze to develop a mahog- ham with a tapered, pointed end. We developed this What Is an Oven Bag,
any sheen. (I pulled the ham from the 250-degree recipe using Turkey Size Reynolds Kitchens Oven Anyway?
oven when it registered 110 degrees, knowing that Bags. For carving instructions, see page 30. The United Kingdom–based baking products
the final blast in a hot oven would cause the meat company Bakewell claims it created the first PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
to climb to the desired 120 to 125 degrees for serv- 1 (7- to 10-pound) spiral-sliced, bone-in half oven cooking bag in 1966 under the brand
ing.) Next, I stirred some of the meaty ham juices ham, preferably shank end name LOOK. Reynolds Kitchens introduced
that were trapped in the oven bag into the remain- 1 large oven bag its own oven bag not long after. Though these
ing caramel. This sweet, tart, savory sauce could be 1¼ cups sugar bags have the flimsy look and feel of plastic
½ cup water storage bags, they are actually manufactured
S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D 3 tablespoons light corn syrup from heat-resistant nylon that contains no
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N 1¼ cups cider vinegar bisphenol A (BPA) or other objectionable
CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 ½ teaspoon pepper chemicals and are heatproof up to 400 degrees.
¼ teaspoon five-spice powder

cook’s illustrated
6
 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes
These spuds come in assorted shapes and sizes. How do you cook them evenly?
F
ingerling potatoes are often confused with
new potatoes due to their small size and
thin, tender skin. However, fingerlings
are fully mature potatoes with an earthy
nuttiness. Roasting is a great way to enhance their
flavor with browning, and their diminutive size
means they can be cooked whole. The only prob-
lem is that they can vary widely in shape (from
crescent-like to knobby) and length (from 1 inch
to nearly 5 inches). I wanted to see if I could get
assorted sizes to cook at the same rate.
I started by tossing 2 pounds of fingerlings with
salt and a few tablespoons of vegetable oil, spread-
ing them on a rimmed baking sheet, and placing the
sheet in a 450-degree oven. Thirty minutes later,
the potatoes had deep patches of browning and the
smaller ones were cooked through, but in general
the skins were tough, and some of the larger spuds
were still firm in the center. At such high heat, the
exteriors were drying out before the larger potatoes
had a chance to cook through. In addition, the
potatoes weren’t covering the entire baking sheet,
allowing the residual oil on the sheet’s exposed
surface to polymerize in the hot oven—and polym-
erized oil is very difficult to clean. Instead, I moved
the fingerlings to a 13 by 9-inch metal baking pan,
where they fit snugly in a single layer.
TECHNIQUE EVEN SEASONING
Instead of adding salt to the fingerlings prior to
roasting, we combine it with herbs and then
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
mince the mixture to create an herb-salt blend.
The increased volume makes it easier to evenly
coat the roasted potatoes with the herbs.
S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19
j BY ANNIE PETITO k
We roast fingerlings whole for a sophisticated side.
I knew that crowding the potatoes would cause
them to steam a bit, but that would be a good
thing, helping them cook through without turning
leathery. In fact, I covered the pan with aluminum
foil to trap the steam. After 15 minutes, the tip of a
knife easily pierced the largest potato, so I removed
the foil and continued to roast the fingerlings so the
skins could take on some color, shaking the pan a
few times to ensure that they browned evenly.
About 20 minutes later, I could see that this
approach worked: Both the large and small spuds
were tender and creamy. Most varieties of fin-
gerlings are waxy, and waxy potatoes hold their
moisture better than, say, floury russets, so it’s hard
to dry them out. The extra steam from the larger
potatoes also helped the smaller ones cook through.
To dress up my perfectly roasted fingerlings,
I coated them with seasonings that would stick
to their skin. For a simple yet classic combination,
I tossed chopped thyme and sage leaves with the
roasted potatoes in a bowl, where their heady fra-
grances wafted up as they hit the hot spuds.
But it was tricky to evenly disperse the small
amount of herbs. For the next batch, I held off on
adding salt prior to roasting the potatoes and instead
added it to the herbs before I minced them. The
increased volume made the ingredients easier to
distribute evenly.
n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
7
Two more potent toppings for my sophisticated,
slender spuds included a zippy mix of lemon zest,
garlic, and parsley and a salty-sharp take on cacio e
pepe with Pecorino Romano and black pepper.
ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES
WITH MIXED HERBS
SERVES 4 TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR
If using a glass or ceramic baking dish, increase the
roasting time in step 1 by 5 minutes. This recipe can
easily be doubled; roast the potatoes in two 13 by
9-inch baking pans on the same oven rack.
2 pounds fingerling potatoes, unpeeled
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
½ teaspoon table salt
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat
oven to 450 degrees. In 13 by 9-inch baking pan,
toss potatoes with oil until evenly coated. Arrange
potatoes in even layer. Cover pan tightly with
aluminum foil. Transfer pan to oven and roast for
15 minutes.
2. Carefully remove foil (steam will escape). Shake
pan and continue to roast, uncovered, until potatoes
are spotty brown and tender and largest potato can
be pierced easily with tip of paring knife, about
20 minutes longer, shaking pan halfway through
roasting.
3. While potatoes roast, chop thyme, sage, and salt
until finely minced and well combined. Transfer pota-
toes and any oil to bowl and toss with herb mixture
until evenly coated. Transfer potatoes to platter. Let
cool for 5 minutes before serving.
ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES
WITH PARSLEY, LEMON, AND GARLIC
Substitute 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley,
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest, and 1 minced garlic
clove for thyme and sage.
ROASTED FINGERLING POTATOES
WITH PECORINO AND BLACK PEPPER
Omit thyme and sage. Once cooked potatoes
have been transferred to bowl in step 3, toss with
2 tablespoons grated Pecorino Romano, 2 teaspoons
pepper, and salt. Sprinkle potatoes with another
2 tablespoons grated Pecorino before serving.
 Classic Bubbly Cocktails
Whether you want to splurge or save, here’s how to make cocktails that sparkle.
j BY LAN LAM WITH LAWMAN JOHNSON k

S
parkling wine cocktails are one of the
easiest ways to make a party feel festive.
They’re celebratory, they come together
in a flash, and they don’t require a stocked
liquor cabinet, fancy barware, or even much mix-
ing. And in many cases, you can put together a
top-notch version on the cheap. Here we cover
the sparkling wine basics, share how to mix three
classic cocktails (champagne cocktails, Bellinis, and
mimosas), and provide helpful tips that apply to
any bubbly cocktail.
The Big Three: Champagne, Prosecco,
and Cava
Champagne, of course, is the gold standard of spar-
kling wine. It must be made in Champagne, France,
using specific grapes and the region’s traditional pro-
duction method. But even the least expensive bottle
of champagne costs about $40. Great alternatives
include prosecco ($8 to $30) and cava ($18 to $30),
the second- and third-most-produced sparkling wines,
respectively. Prosecco is made with an Italian grape
using a different method that makes it less carbonated.
It tends to have more residual sugar and a slightly
lower acidity. Cava, a Spanish sparkler, is produced
with grapes indigenous to Spain using the same
method used to produce champagne. It features simi-
lar levels of carbonation, acidity, and residual sugar.
When to Splurge on Champagne
Champagne is essential in a champagne cocktail—and
not just to make it true to its name. Made by pouring
the wine over a sugar cube drenched in Angostura
bitters and garnished with a twist
An $8 bottle of lemon zest, this cocktail evolves
is perfectly from the first sip to the last—and
acceptable the flavors of the champagne are
for mimosas primary until the very end. First,
and Bellinis. bursting bubbles aromatize lemon
oils from the twist to make the
initial sip bright and citrusy. Then the champagne’s
flavors and aromas more fully take over, with whispers
of the orange-and-spice-scented Angostura. Only in
the final sips, when the sugar cube has fully dissolved
to create a bitters-infused syrup at the bottom of the
Two simple elements—a twist of lemon and an
Angostura bitters–soaked sugar cube—turn
champagne into the most elegant of cocktails.
When a Budget Bubbly Will Do
In virtually all other sparkling wine cocktails, it’s fine
to substitute a less expensive sparkling wine. When
we poured an $8 prosecco into orange juice and
How Sweet Is It?
Cointreau to make mimosas and compared them to
a batch made with $45 champagne, all tasters could
tell the difference, but most found the cheaper bottle
entirely acceptable since the juice and liqueur hid
the nuances of the wine. Prosecco is the traditional
choice for Bellinis, which are sweetened with peach
juice and peach schnapps, and we wouldn’t hesitate
to use an inexpensive bottle to mix that drink either.
Tips for Gauging Flavor
It’s helpful to consult with a well-informed shop-
keeper when selecting a sparkling wine, but to make
your own educated guess, keep in mind that one of
the biggest determining factors in the flavor profile
is the grape varietal. Generally speaking, due to the
grapes used to make each wine, champagne is only
slightly fruity, cava is a little fruitier, and prosecco
is fruitier still. To select a quality sparkling wine
similar to champagne, look for the term “traditional
method” or “crémant.” Both indicate that the wine
was made in the same manner as champagne, so its
flavor (and effervescence) will be comparable.
The Importance of Temperature
Whether you spring for champagne or opt for some-
thing more economical, sparkling wine is best served
at about 40 degrees. Cold suppresses sweetness,
so wine will taste sweeter at warmer temperatures.
Higher temperatures also make the wine lose its
carbonation more quickly. This makes it initially
fizzier and more aromatic, but the trade-off is that it
becomes flat and loses its aroma faster. Wine poured
into an unchilled flute shot from 38 to 48 degrees.
But in a chilled flute, it rose to only 43 degrees. Be
sure to chill the mixers, too.
Pre-Party Prep
Sparkling wine should be opened just before mixing
cocktails. But that doesn’t mean you can’t premix
liqueurs and juices. Just be sure to keep the mixers
chilled in a vessel such as a small pitcher. As guests
arrive, simply pour the mixer into a flute glass, add
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY

glass, does the Angostura supersede the champagne. These terms will give you an idea of the sweetness level of champagne (you’ll find them on some prosecco
For the best experience, this cocktail’s namesake and cava labels as well), but keep in mind that acidity (both from the grapes and from carbonation) also
ingredient is a must. affects how sweet a wine tastes. (Wines with higher acidity will taste less sweet.) Make a note of the terms
before you shop since they can be confusing: Sparkling wines labeled “dry” contain a fair amount of sugar, as
do “demi-sec” wines, even though sec means “dry” in French.
S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N BRUT NATURE EXTRA BRUT BRUT EXTRA DRY DRY DEMI-SEC DOUX
CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 DRIEST SWEETEST

cook’s illustrated
8
 MIMOSA BELLINI
Uncorking: Easy as 1, 2, 3 MAKES 1 COCKTAIL TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES MAKES 1 COCKTAIL TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES

Use strained fresh-squeezed orange juice. We like Either peach juice or nectar works well here. Tilt the
Cointreau, but any orange liqueur will work here. Tilt glass to a 45-degree angle and pour the wine down
the glass to a 45-degree angle and pour the wine down the side of the glass to minimize foaming. –L.J.
the side of the glass to minimize foaming. For tips on
making the orange twist, see page 29. –L.J. 2½ fluid ounces (¼ cup
plus 1 tablespoon)
2½ fluid ounces (¼ cup peach juice or nectar,
plus 1 tablespoon) chilled
orange juice, strained ¼ fluid ounce (1½ tea-
1. Remove the foil and loosen the cage, keeping and chilled spoons) peach schnapps
your hand on the cork at all times. ¼ fluid ounce (1½ tea- 3 fluid ounces (¼ cup
2. Tilt the bottle to a 45-degree angle, pointing spoons) orange liqueur plus 2 tablespoons)
it away from people, pets, and fragile objects. 3 fluid ounces (¼ cup sparkling wine, chilled
3. Grip the cage and cork and twist the bottle plus 2 tablespoons) 1 thin slice peach
until the cork comes free. Continue to hold the sparkling wine, chilled (optional)
bottle at an angle until the foaming subsides; this 1 orange twist
increases the surface area of the wine, allowing Add peach juice and
gases to escape without the wine foaming over. Add orange juice and peach schnapps to chilled
orange liqueur to chilled champagne flute; stir with
champagne flute; stir with spoon to combine. Add
the sparkling wine, and garnish. For the Champagne spoon to combine. Add wine. wine. Using spoon, gently Look for bottled
Cocktail, you can presoak sugar cubes up to 2 hours Using spoon, gently lift juice Fresh-squeezed lift juice mixture from peach juice or
in advance or make our DIY Bitters Sugar Cubes. mixture from bottom to top orange juice is bottom to top of glass to peach nectar. Both
of glass to combine. Garnish imperative for the combine. Garnish with peach will give the Bellini
best-tasting mimosa. a deep fruity taste.
CHAMPAGNE COCKTAIL with orange twist. Serve. slice, if using. Serve.
MAKES 1 COCKTAIL TOTAL TIME: 5 MINUTES

YIELD PER BOTTLE

We strongly prefer champagne here, but you can use Master Mixologist Moves 750-mL 5 GLASSES
another quality sparkling wine as long as it’s brut or Paying attention to small details will bring your sparkling cocktails to the next level.
Bottle 8 COCKTAILS
extra brut. Tilt the glass to a 45-degree angle and
pour the wine down the side of the glass to minimize TILT THE GLASS DON’T STIR—LIFT DO THE TWIST
foaming. Use a channel knife to make the lemon twist, Pour the way you would a Mix sparkling cocktails that include liqueurs For cocktails garnished
or see an alternate method on page 29. For tips on beer: down the side of a glass and juice using a lifting motion with a spoon. with a citrus twist, be
storing leftover champagne, see page 28. –L.L. that’s tilted to a 45-degree Stirring isn’t particularly effective at moving sure to drop the twist
angle. This shortens the denser liquids up toward the top of the into the drink before
1 sugar cube distance the wine falls so glass. A lifting motion is much more efficient, sipping. The zest con-
¼ teaspoon Angostura bitters there is less turbulence and and the less you agitate the drink, the more tributes bright notes that
5½ fluid ounces (½ cup plus 3 tablespoons) therefore less foaming. carbonation you preserve. enliven the cocktail.
champagne, chilled
1 lemon twist

Place sugar cube in small bowl. Add bitters to SCIENCE The Physics of Fizz
sugar cube. Transfer soaked sugar cube to chilled Carbonation doesn’t just give sparkling wine a pretty appearance and create a
champagne flute. Add champagne and garnish with sharp bite on your tongue. The bubbles convey aromatic compounds to the sur-
lemon twist. Serve. face of the wine and deliver fragrance to your nose when they burst. But how do
the bubbles form in the first place?
They start with dissolved carbon dioxide that stays in the pres-
DIY BITTERS SUGAR CUBES surized wine until the bottle is opened. For a bubble to form, the
MAKES 64 CUBES TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS 24 HOURS DRYING carbon dioxide needs a trigger, or an interruption in the otherwise
homogeneous liquid, called a nucleation site: a microscopic gas
You can use any type of bitters you like here. –L.L. pocket that’s already in the glass, on a fleck of dust, a cloth fiber
left behind when you wiped the glass clean, or a scratch or etching
¾ cup sugar 2 tablespoons bitters
in the glass (or, in a champagne cocktail, a sugar cube).
Stir sugar and bitters in bowl until well combined. Transfer mixture The gas pocket is all that’s needed to incite some carbon diox-
to large piece of parchment paper and press into 4-inch square. Use ide to come out of the wine, forming a bubble. The bubble grows
chef ’s knife to cut sugar square into ½-inch cubes, being careful not as it rises through the liquid and carbon dioxide enters the bubble.
to cut parchment. Transfer sugar square to rimmed baking sheet and This process repeats itself over and over, creating a trail of effer-
let sit uncovered in cool, dry place for 24 hours. Sugar cubes can be vescence from the nucleation site up to the surface of the wine.
stored in airtight container for up to 48 hours.

n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
9
 The Most Impressive Baked Pasta
A triple-decker composition of tubular pasta, spiced meat sauce, and lush béchamel,
Greek pastitsio is king among casseroles—and often a royal pain.
j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k

P
astitsio is culinary pastiche in the most lit-
eral sense. It’s a Greek meat and macaroni
casserole inspired by similar Italian com-
positions such as baked ziti and lasagna
(pasticcio, the root of both “pastitsio” and “pas-
tiche,” is an old Italian term for a pie containing
meat and pasta); the seasonings are Hellenic; and
it’s lavished with French béchamel. The dish is an
alloy of language and cuisine.
What makes pastitsio stand out from its Italian
analogues is most obvious when you look at a slice
of it: Instead of being jumbled together or loosely
stacked, the casserole’s components are impressively
stratified. The base layer typically features rows of
wide-bore tubular pasta held together with a thin
mortar of cheese and béchamel. Above that sits a
band of tightly bound, robustly spiced ground meat
and tomato sauce. Topping it all off is a plush blanket
of cheesy béchamel. A well-constructed version holds
together so that in each forkful, the layers remain
separate but are experienced together.
It’s classic comfort fare and one of my favorite
things to order at a Greek diner—the type of dish
you find at the center of many Greek family meals.
But since there’s no hiding gluey or mushy noodles,
dull or dry meat sauce, or grainy béchamel, the best
versions take time and care to make. Streamlining the
whole package without sacrificing its character was
my goal, so I took on the challenge layer by layer.

[ NEAT ROWS OF NOODLES ]

A layer of neatly aligned tubular pasta bound by creamy,
cheesy béchamel sauce is a hallmark of pastitsio; each
slice should look like it contains rows of stacked pipes.
Traditional recipes call for “number 2” macaroni: long
tubes that look like wide bucatini (in prominent Greek
brands, the “2” refers to this shape of noodle). I found
that ziti, the most widely available match in terms of diam-
eter, was actually easier to work with; the stubby Italian
tubes fell into parallel orientation with almost no effort.
Parcooking the pasta to just shy of al dente before
USE BEEF,
assembling and baking was key. Cooked any less, the
NOT LAMB Kasseri Cheese
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
pasta tasted raw, while fully soft pasta collapsed and I N G R E D I E N T S P OT L I G H T
ruined the “stacked pipes” visual and pleasing texture. Despite its prominence in Greek Kasseri is a Greek cheese that’s increasingly available in U.S. supermar-
cuisine, lamb is not the traditional kets. It’s semifirm, stretchy, and salty like Italian provolone but richer
choice in pastitsio—beef is. Because because it’s made from sheep’s (or sometimes a combination of sheep’s
R E C I P E S TO M A K E I T A M E A L beef is labeled with its fat content and goat’s) milk, which is fattier than cow’s milk. It’s the traditional
Find these sides in our archive: Mediterranean and lamb is not, using beef also
Chopped Salad (July/August 2009), Sautéed Swiss helps ensure that the dish choice for Greek baked casseroles such as pastitsio and moussaka, but
Chard with Garlic (May/June 2015), and Broiled won’t be too lean or if you can’t find it, a 2:1 ratio of provolone to Pecorino Romano will
Broccoli Rabe (September/October 2016). too greasy. approximate its flavor and elasticity.

cook’s illustrated
10

[ A CHEESY COVER ]
In many cuisines, béchamel—the classic white sauce made by thickening milk with
a roux—is a background component with a subtle presence. It holds together the
layers in lasagna, anchors the ham and Gruyère in a croque monsieur, and binds
up the elbows in macaroni and cheese. But in pastitsio, béchamel gets its chance
in the spotlight. It’s typically thickened with cheese and sometimes egg and spread
over the casserole into a distinct layer that bakes up custardy and browns deeply.
(A portion of it also binds up the pasta layer.)
I thickened the béchamel in two stages: First, I used it to parcook the pasta,
which leached starch that tightened up the sauce just enough to hold the ziti
together (see “The Sauce Cooks the Pasta, the Pasta
Cooks the Sauce”). Then I strained out the pasta and
thickened the sauce further by whisking in cheese and
an egg. Now the sauce was spreadable. A sprinkling
of more cheese over the top encouraged the surface
to brown.
[ SAVORY, SPICED MEAT SAUCE ]
The most obvious difference between the meat sauce
in pastitsio and a version you might find in an Italian
pasta dish is the seasoning. Cinnamon and oregano are
traditional flavors, and dried mint and paprika further
distance it from anything in the Italian canon.
The sauce should be tight and concentrated and the
ground beef tender—both reasons why most recipes
call for a long, slow simmer. But I found a faster way
to achieve both goals. Briefly treating 93 percent lean
ground beef (which has enough fat to stay supple with-
out making the sauce greasy) with baking soda before
cooking altered the meat’s chemistry so that it was
better able to hold on to moisture, and skipping the
usual browning step avoided toughening its exterior.
I had tender meat in about half the original time.
Minimizing the amount of liquid also expedited
cooking. One-quarter cup of red wine added bright-
ness, and instead of reducing tomato sauce, I thinned
out ultraconcentrated tomato paste with just enough
water to make the finished sauce appropriately fluid.
The Sauce Cooks the Pasta, the Pasta
Cooks the Sauce
Most pastitsio recipes call for parcooking the pasta, tossing it with a portion
of the béchamel, and thickening the remaining béchamel with enough roux to
make it spreadable, not runny. But when I realized that the pasta could cook
in the béchamel, and that its starch could thicken the sauce, I combined
these steps to make the process more efficient.
Hot Béchamel Hydrates Pasta
Briefly simmering and then steeping
the ziti in the béchamel hydrates its
starch just enough to ensure that it will
be fully cooked after baking.
Pasta Starch Thickens Béchamel
As the pasta softens, it leaches starch
that thickens the béchamel (without
it, the béchamel would require
twice as much roux to thicken up
appropriately).
n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
11
PASTITSIO
SERVES 6 TOTAL TIME: 2½ HOURS, PLUS 20 MINUTES COOLING
Don’t use ground beef that’s less than 93 percent lean or the dish will be greasy.
We like the richness of whole milk for this dish, but you can substitute 2 percent
low-fat milk, if desired. Do not use skim milk. Kasseri is a semifirm sheep’s-milk
cheese from Greece. If it’s unavailable, substitute a mixture of 1½ ounces (¾ cup)
grated Pecorino Romano and 3 ounces (¾ cup) shredded Provolone, adding
½ cup to the ziti in step 4, ½ cup to the béchamel, and the remaining ½ cup
to the top of the béchamel. We strongly recommend using a spider skimmer to
transfer the pasta to the baking dish, but a slotted spoon will work. To accom-
modate all the components, use a baking dish that is at least 2¼ inches tall. For
information on dried mint, see page 28.
Meat Sauce ¼ cup red wine
¾ teaspoon table salt ⅓ cup tomato paste
¼ teaspoon baking soda
1 tablespoon plus ½ cup water, Béchamel and Pasta
divided 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces 93 percent lean 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
ground beef 1 garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon vegetable oil ½ teaspoon table salt
½ cup finely chopped onion ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg
3 garlic cloves, minced ⅛ teaspoon pepper
1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon 4 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon dried oregano 8 ounces (2½ cups) ziti
1 teaspoon dried mint 4 ounces kasseri cheese, shredded
1 teaspoon paprika (1 cup), divided
⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 large egg, lightly beaten
⅛ teaspoon pepper
1. FOR THE MEAT SAUCE: Mix salt, baking soda, and 1 tablespoon water
in bowl. Add beef and toss until thoroughly combined. Set aside.
2. Heat oil in medium saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add
onion and cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes. Stir in
garlic, cinnamon, oregano, mint, paprika, pepper flakes, and pepper and cook
until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring occasionally, until
mixture is thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomato paste, beef mixture, and
remaining ½ cup water and cook, breaking up meat into pieces no larger than
¼ inch with wooden spoon, until beef has just lost its pink color, 3 to 5 min-
utes. Bring to simmer; cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes,
stirring occasionally. Off heat, season with salt to taste. (Meat sauce can be
refrigerated in airtight container for up to 3 days. Heat through before pro-
ceeding with step 3.)
3. FOR THE BÉCHAMEL AND PASTA: Adjust oven rack to middle posi-
tion and heat oven to 375 degrees. Spray 8-inch square baking dish with vegetable
oil spray and place on rimmed baking sheet. Melt butter in large saucepan over
medium heat. Add flour, garlic, salt, nutmeg, and pepper and cook, stirring con-
stantly, until golden and fragrant, about 1 minute. Slowly whisk in milk and bring
to boil. Add pasta and return to simmer, stirring frequently to prevent sticking.
When mixture reaches simmer, cover and let stand off heat, stirring occasionally,
for 15 minutes (pasta will not be fully cooked).
4. Using spider skimmer, transfer pasta to prepared dish, leaving excess bécha-
mel in saucepan. Sprinkle ⅓ cup kasseri over pasta and stir to combine. Using
spatula, gently press pasta into even layer. Add ⅓ cup kasseri to béchamel and
whisk to combine. Whisk egg into
béchamel. Spread meat sauce over pasta
S T E P - BY- S T E P
and, using spatula, spread into even VIDEO AND
layer. Top with béchamel. Sprinkle NUTRITION
remaining ⅓ cup kasseri over béchamel. I N F O R M AT I O N
Bake until top of pastitsio is puffed and CooksIllustrated.
spotty brown, 40 to 50 minutes. Let com/DEC19
cool for 20 minutes. Serve.
 Silky, Elegant—and from a Can
Soup made with canned beans is convenient and satisfying.
But can it be sophisticated, too? Surprisingly, yes.
j BY ANNIE PETITO k

O
rdering pureed soup at a restaurant
just feels fancy. That’s not because
it’s made from pricey ingredients or
enriched with loads of cream; in fact,
some of the best soups I’ve had have been based
on common vegetables or legumes blended with
broth or water. What impresses is the thought-
ful composition of the dish: There’s the soup
itself, which is perfectly smooth after being pureed
in a high-powered blender and passed through
an ultrafine-mesh strainer. And then there are
the bold, diverse garnishes that sharpen the soup
into something attention-grabbing, artful, and
deeply flavorful.
But I’m here to let you in on a little secret: There’s
no need to go to a restaurant to have this experience.
You can pull off something equally sumptuous and
interesting without spe-
Creamy white beans cial equipment and with
provide the perfect ingredients you probably
canvas for a range already have in your pan-
of garnishes. try. And it all starts with
a humble can of white
beans. Not only are these legumes inexpensive and
filling, but they are naturally creamy when pureed
and have a mild flavor that provides the perfect can-
vas for a range of garnishes. And the fact that they’re
already cooked means you can devote a little extra
effort to making garnishes that really pop.
The soup itself comes together in about 20 min-
utes. I started by softening some aromatics (chopped
onion and celery) in olive oil and then added thyme
sprigs, sliced garlic, and a touch of cayenne pepper.
Next came two cans of great Northern beans—a
moderately starchy variety that made the soup velvety
but not stodgy—along with their seasoned canning
liquid, which added more bean flavor and viscous
body. I covered the saucepan and simmered the beans
until they started to soften and break down slightly,
removed the thyme sprigs, pureed the mixture in the A sprinkling of crispy capers and a swirl of vibrant herb oil make this humble bean soup dazzle.
blender, and then thinned it with a few cups of water.
The soup was silky but tasted flat and lean, so creamy, lean soup. My first idea was to whip up an had infused the oil with their briny punch. I strained PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
I worked in a couple of tablespoons each of grated easy, vibrant herb oil—something like a minimalist out the capers and set them aside to cool; tossed the
Parmesan and butter and swapped in chicken broth salsa verde made from extra-virgin olive oil, chopped chopped herbs into the infused oil, which I drizzled
for the water. I purposely waited until the soup parsley and basil, and capers. But while the oil tasted over the silky soup; and followed with a sprinkling
was done cooking before seasoning it with salt and bright and fresh, the capers made it chunky and hard of the capers.
lemon juice and adjusting its consistency with hot to drizzle elegantly. So I reengineered things to yield
water, since the salt content and the beans and their two interrelated garnishes instead of just one: First, S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
canning liquid vary from brand to brand. I microwave-fried the capers in the oil, as we often N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
Then came the fun part: coming up with gar- do with aromatics such as garlic and shallots. After CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19
nishes that would add brightness and contrast to the 5 minutes, the capers were crisp and delicate and

cook’s illustrated
12
 The tandem effect of the crispy capers and bright
herb oil elevated the soup much more than either
garnish would have on its own, and it inspired a few
more pairs that delivered equally impressive visual
and textural contrast from (mostly) pantry staples
and deceptively little work: garlicky bread crumbs
that soaked up fragrant, spicy oil from pieces of fried
chorizo; olive oil and crunchy bits of quick-pickled
celery; and a dollop of thick, lemony yogurt along-
side needle-thin crispy leeks. With each combination,
the soup took on a different character—like eating
at a new restaurant every night.
CREAMY WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH
HERB OIL AND CRISPY CAPERS
SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES
Use a conventional blender here; an immersion
blender will not produce as smooth a soup. Do not
drain or rinse the beans; their liquid contributes to
the soup’s flavor and body. Because the salt content
of canned beans varies from brand to brand, season
to taste at the end of cooking. For tips on warming
the serving bowls, see page 30.
Herb Oil and Crispy Capers
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup capers, rinsed and patted dry
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
Soup
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
½ cup chopped onion
1 small celery rib, chopped fine
3 sprigs fresh thyme
2 garlic cloves, sliced
Pinch cayenne pepper
2 (15-ounce) cans great Northern beans
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
2 cups chicken broth, divided
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ teaspoon lemon juice, plus
extra for seasoning
1. FOR THE HERB OIL AND CRISPY
CAPERS: Combine oil and capers in medium bowl
(capers should be mostly submerged). Microwave
until capers are darkened in color and have shrunk,
about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through microwav-
ing. Using slotted spoon, transfer capers to paper
towel–lined plate (they will continue to crisp as they
cool); set aside. Reserve caper oil.
2. FOR THE SOUP: Heat oil in large saucepan
over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN
celery and cook, stirring frequently, until softened but
not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add thyme sprigs, gar-
lic, and cayenne and cook, stirring constantly, until
fragrant, about 1 minute. Add beans and their liquid
and stir to combine. Reduce heat to medium-low,
cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans are
heated through and just starting to break down, 6 to
Turn Simple Soup into a
Standout with Garnish Duos
Consider this simple, silky soup a blank slate on
which you can build visual, textural, and flavor
appeal with garnishes. Substitute any of these
quick-to-make combinations for the herb oil
and crispy capers to complement the beans’
subtle savory flavor.
CHORIZO OIL AND GARLICKY
BREAD CRUMBS
SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES
Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and ¼ cup
panko bread crumbs in 8-inch skillet over medium
heat. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden brown, 3 to
5 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon minced garlic and cook
until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Transfer to bowl and
stir in pinch table salt. Heat ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
and 2½ ounces finely chopped Spanish-style chorizo
sausage in now-empty skillet over medium heat, stir-
ring frequently, until chorizo is crispy, about 2 minutes.
Using slotted spoon, transfer chorizo to paper towel–
lined plate. Drizzle each portion of soup with chorizo
oil and sprinkle with chorizo and bread crumbs.
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AND
QUICK-PICKLED CELERY
SERVES 4 TO 6
TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES, PLUS 15 MINUTES RESTING
Microwave ½ cup rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar,
and ½ teaspoon table salt in medium bowl until sim-
mering, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in 1 finely chopped celery
rib and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain celery, discarding
liquid. Drizzle each portion of soup with 1 teaspoon
extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with celery.
Two Techniques to Ensure a Supersmooth Soup
This soup is so lush and silky you’d think it was pureed in a professional-quality blender, passed through a
restaurant-grade sieve, and enriched with cream. But it’s nothing but beans, broth, butter, seasonings—
and two effective techniques.
COOK CANNED BEANS:
Heating canned beans loosens
their starch granules (which
we perceive as gritty on the
tongue) and allows water to
dilute the starch so that it’s
imperceptible.
8 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat and discard
thyme sprigs.
3. Process bean mixture and Parmesan in blender
on low speed until thick, smooth puree forms, about
2 minutes. With blender running, add 1 cup broth
and butter. Increase speed to high and continue to
process until butter is incorporated and mixture is
pourable, about 1 minute longer.
n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
13
LEMONY YOGURT AND CRISPY LEEKS
SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES
Halve white and light green part of 1 leek lengthwise,
then slice into very thin 2-inch-long strips. Wash and
dry thoroughly. Toss with 2 tablespoons all-purpose
flour in medium bowl. Stir in ½ cup vegetable
oil. Microwave for 5 minutes. Stir and microwave
2 minutes longer. Repeat stirring and microwaving in
2-minute increments until leeks begin to brown (4 to
6 minutes total), then repeat stirring and microwaving
in 30-second increments until leeks are deep golden
(30 seconds to 2 minutes total). Using slotted spoon,
transfer leeks to paper towel–lined plate; discard oil.
Let leeks drain and turn crispy, about 5 minutes, then
season with salt to taste. Meanwhile, whisk ½ cup
plain Greek yogurt, 3 tablespoons water, and 1 tea-
spoon lemon zest and 2 teaspoons juice in bowl until
smooth. Season with table salt to taste. Drizzle each
portion of soup with yogurt and sprinkle with leeks.
PUREE WITH MINIMAL
LIQUID: Blending the beans with
a small amount of liquid (more
liquid is added later) allows for lots
of friction that helps grind their skins
into a smooth puree. The liquid
creates just enough of a vortex to
keep the blender running.
4. Return soup to clean saucepan and whisk in
remaining 1 cup broth. Cover and bring to simmer
over medium heat, adjusting consistency with up to
1 cup hot water as needed. Off heat, stir in lemon
juice. Season with salt and extra lemon juice to taste.
5. Stir parsley and basil into reserved caper oil.
Drizzle each portion of soup with herb oil, sprinkle
with capers, and serve.
 The World’s Cutest Cookie
These Lilliputian Italian hazelnut-chocolate sandwich cookies are utterly charming—
but only if they’re perfect. Our approach makes it easy to get them just right.
j BY STEVE DUNN k

I
f I had a dollar for every time someone came
up to my workstation in the test kitchen and
proclaimed, “Those cookies are so cute!”
I could retire. But endearing as they are, baci
di dama are also fussy, and a few batches into my
recipe development, I wanted to retire.
Hailing from the Piedmont region of Italy, baci
di dama are sandwich cookies that consist of two
tiny hazelnut buttons held together by a slim choco-
late filling. (Their name translates as “lady’s kisses”
because each sandwich is said to resemble a woman’s
pursed lips.) Sandwich cookies are laborious to make
by nature, but these are made from a short, fragile
dough that must be chilled for at least an hour lest
it soften too much to be workable. And because
the cookies are bite-size, the portioning step is a real
bear: A single batch makes dozens of cookies, each of
which must be measured (often weighed) precisely
so that all the sandwich halves match up perfectly.
Once the cookies have been baked and cooled, half
of them are overturned and dolloped with melted
chocolate (or sometimes Nutella or ganache), gently
topped with the remaining cookies so that the filling
spreads just to the edges, and left to sit briefly so that
the chocolate sets.
All this I learned after being lured in by not just
their visual charm but their flavor and consistency,
too. A recipe from Italian cookbook author Domenica
Marchetti was the best and simplest I’d made, and it We let the melted chocolate cool briefly before filling the cookies so it will thicken and won’t run over the sides.
yielded cookies that were rich with nuts and butter and
that carefully balanced ample structure with the tender- sugar) than most classic Piedmontese recipes, and There was one more subtle but tedious task
ness of great shortbread. The results looked and tasted when I reduced the butter and sugar a bit further I streamlined before moving on to the portioning
so good (even days later, which made them great to while also cutting back on the nuts, I ended up with project: rubbing every bit of papery skin from the
give as gifts or take to a party) that I picked apart the a dough that still boasted plenty of richness and nutty toasted hazelnuts. Since I was grinding the nuts
process to see where it could be made faster and easier. flavor but was firm enough that I could get
away with just a quick stint in the freezer
Timesaving Tricks before portioning it.
Marchetti’s food-processor method for making the
dough is easier than most classic recipes, which
call for mixing the ingredients by hand. All you do Sandwich Assembly Line
is grind hazelnuts (toasted and skinned), butter, Following the three steps outlined below
flour, sugar, and salt until the nuts are broken down will make quick work of spooning on the PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
and a dough comes together. It’s the subsequent chocolate filling and assembling the sand-
portioning and chilling steps that really drag out the wich cookies.
process, so I took a hard look at the ingredient list
to see how I could make a firmer dough that would INVERT every other row of cookies.
require less chilling.
SPOON melted chocolate onto the
The high ratio of fat to flour is what makes a short
centers of the inverted cookies.
dough such as this one soft and fragile, so I tried
making a leaner version. Marchetti’s formula already TOP with the remaining cookies.
called for slightly less butter (and considerably less

cook’s illustrated
14
 very fine, I wondered if it was necessary to be quite
so thorough—or necessary to skin them at all—so
I baked batches of cookies made with skinned,
partially skinned (rubbed briefly after toasting), and
skin-on hazelnuts. The surprising news: Not only
was it easier to partially skin the nuts, but leaving
some of the papery bits attached resulted in a slightly
drier yet more flavorful and resilient dough with
attractive dark flecks. (Forgoing skinning altogether
made the dough too dry and a tad savory, thanks to
the tannins in the skins.)
Perfect Portions
Precisely portioning the dough is the most important
step when making any sandwich cookie, and it’s even
more crucial here because the cookies’ button-like
charm relies on having two perfect halves. But
scooping and weighing dozens of tiny dough pieces
felt tedious, so I tried alternative methods, such as
a “gnocchi” approach where you roll the dough
into ropes and cut each rope into equal portions.
It worked well enough but wasn’t as efficient as
the method we used to portion Chocolate Truffles
(January/February 2012): Press the dough into
a parchment paper–lined baking pan; freeze it for
10 minutes to firm it up; turn out the frozen block
onto the counter; and cut a “portion grid” by halv-
ing the dough lengthwise, halving those halves
lengthwise, cutting the rows in half again, rotating
the dough 90 degrees, and making equally spaced
perpendicular cuts. It took just minutes to make equal
portions that I rolled into balls and baked (see “The
Fastest Way to Portion 64 Cookies”).
While the cookies cooled, I mapped out the
most efficient way to assemble the sandwiches (see
“Sandwich Assembly Line”) and melted a couple of
ounces of bittersweet chocolate in the microwave
for the filling. (Neither ganache nor Nutella firmed
up enough to lock the cookies together.) Piping the
chocolate from a zipper-lock bag with the corner
snipped off didn’t work since the heat of my hands
made the chocolate too runny. But I did find a trick
for portioning the melted chocolate. I allowed it
The Fastest Way to Portion 64 Cookies
Rather than scooping and weighing dozens of tiny dough portions, we cut a “portion grid” into the dough that
delivers even-size pieces in a fraction of the time.
1 1
2 3
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN
4 5
1. Cut square of dough in half 2. Cut 4 rows in half lengthwise
lengthwise. Cut each half in half for total of 7 cuts to create 8 rows.
lengthwise to create 4 rows.
to cool and thicken a bit before spooning it onto
the overturned cookies so that it wouldn’t run
off the sides. Letting the sandwiches sit for about
15 minutes before serving allowed the chocolate to
cool and set.
My no-fuss approach to skinning the nuts, mixing
the dough in a food processor, and making a portion
grid added up to a really approachable recipe. As for
the cookies themselves, they were rich and complexly
nutty, with a dark, bittersweet snap—and so cute.
BACI DI DAMA (ITALIAN HAZELNUT COOKIES)
MAKES 32 SANDWICH COOKIES
TOTAL TIME: 1¼ HOURS, PLUS 1 HOUR COOLING
Toast the hazelnuts on a rimmed baking sheet in a
325-degree oven until fragrant, 13 to 15 minutes,
shaking the sheet halfway through toasting. To skin
them, gather the warm hazelnuts in a dish towel and
rub to remove some of the skins. A square-cornered
metal baking pan works best for shaping the dough.
If using a baking dish with rounded corners, be sure
to square the corners of the dough before portion-
ing. We prefer Ghirardelli 60% Cacao Bittersweet
Chocolate Premium Baking Bar for this recipe.
¾ cup hazelnuts, toasted and
partially skinned
⅔ cup (3⅓ ounces) all-purpose flour
⅓ cup (2⅓ ounces) sugar
⅛ teaspoon table salt
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch
pieces and chilled
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and
heat oven to 325 degrees. Line 2 rimmed bak-
ing sheets with parchment paper. Line bottom of
8-inch square baking pan with parchment. Process
hazelnuts, flour, sugar, and salt in food processor
until hazelnuts are very finely ground, 20 to 25 sec-
onds. Add butter and pulse until dough just comes
together, 20 to 25 pulses.
2 3
6 7 4 5 6 7
3. Rotate square 90 degrees
and repeat cutting, making
7 perpendicular cuts.
n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
15
DUE PROCESS FOR HAZELNUTS
Hazelnuts make up a substantial portion of baci
di dama dough, so it’s important to skin and grind
them properly.
DO leave a little skin on the toasted nuts. The
dry, papery bits make the dough a bit drier and
more resilient; they also add complex flavor and
attractive dark flecks. It’s also easier to leave
some skin attached.
DON’T underprocess the nuts when making
the dough. Anything short of a very fine grind will
result in a crumbly dough that can’t be rolled into
neat balls for baking.
2. Transfer dough to counter, knead briefly to
form smooth ball, place in prepared pan, and press
into even layer that covers bottom of pan. Freeze for
10 minutes. Run knife or bench scraper between dough
and edge of pan to loosen. Turn out dough onto coun-
ter and discard parchment. Cut dough into 64 squares
(8 rows by 8 rows). Roll dough squares into balls and
evenly space 32 dough balls on each prepared sheet.
Bake, 1 sheet at a time, until cookies look dry and are
fragrant (cookies will settle but not spread), about
20 minutes, rotating sheet halfway through baking.
Transfer sheet to wire rack and let cookies cool com-
pletely, about 30 minutes.
3. Microwave chocolate in small bowl at 50 percent
power, stirring every 20 seconds, until melted, 1 to
2 minutes. Let chocolate cool at room temperature
until it is slightly thickened and registers 80 degrees,
about 10 minutes. Invert half of cookies on each sheet.
Using ¼-teaspoon measure, spoon chocolate onto flat
surfaces of all inverted cookies. Top with remaining
cookies, pressing lightly to adhere. Let chocolate set
for at least 15 minutes before serving. (Cookies can
be stored in airtight container at room temperature
for up to 10 days.)
S T E P - BY- S T E P V I D E O A N D
N U T R I T I O N I N F O R M AT I O N
CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19
No-Fuss Party Appetizers
Don’t shortcut the cocktail hour just because you’re preparing an elaborate meal.
These easy bites will impress and still allow you to enjoy the party. BY ELIZABETH BOMZE
MAKE-
AHEAD
GOAT CHEESE LOG WITH
HAZELNUT-NIGELLA DUKKAH
SERVES 8 TO 10
TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES,
PLUS 2½ HOURS COOLING/RESTING
Cheese
6 ounces goat cheese
6 ounces cream cheese
1 small garlic clove, minced
½ teaspoon pepper
Dukkah
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted
1 teaspoon coriander seeds,
toasted
1½ tablespoons raw sunflower seeds,
toasted
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
1½ teaspoons nigella seeds
3 tablespoons hazelnuts, toasted,
skinned, and chopped fine
1½ teaspoons paprika
½ teaspoon flake sea salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
Make the Right
Amount
The volume and variety of items
you make depend on what
(if anything) will follow.
( Meal to follow in less than
an hour: one to three
appetizers; three to four
pieces per person
( Meal to follow in more
than an hour: one to three
appetizers; four to six pieces
per person
( No meal to follow: five
to six appetizers; 10 to
12 pieces per person
1. FOR THE CHEESE: Process all
ingredients in food processor until
smooth, about 1 minute, scraping down
sides of bowl as needed.
2. Place 18 by 11-inch sheet of
plastic wrap on counter with long
side parallel to counter edge. Transfer
cheese mixture to center of plastic and
shape into log with long side parallel
to counter edge (log should be about
9 inches long). Fold plastic over log and
roll up. Pinch plastic at ends of log and
roll on counter to form tight cylinder.
Tuck ends of plastic underneath log
and freeze until completely firm, 1½ to
2 hours.
3. FOR THE DUKKAH: Grind
fennel seeds and coriander seeds in
spice grinder until finely ground, about
30 seconds. Add sunflower seeds, ses-
ame seeds, and nigella seeds and pulse
until coarsely ground, about 4 pulses;
transfer to small bowl. Stir in hazelnuts,
paprika, and salt. (Dukkah can be refrig-
erated for up to 3 months.)
4. Unwrap cheese log and let sit until
outside is slightly tacky to touch, about
10 minutes. Spread dukkah into even
layer on large plate and roll cheese log
in dukkah to evenly coat, pressing gently
to adhere. (Coated cheese log can be
wrapped tightly in plastic and refriger-
ated for up to 2 days.) Transfer to
serving platter and let sit at room tem-
perature until softened, about 1 hour.
Drizzle with oil and serve.
BLACK PEPPER CANDIED BACON
SERVES 4 TO 6
TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES
HANDS-
OFF
¼ cup packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon pepper
12 ounces center-cut bacon,
halved crosswise
cook’s illustrated
16
1. Adjust oven racks
to upper-middle and
lower-middle positions and
heat oven to 350 degrees.
Combine sugar and pepper
in bowl. Arrange bacon
on 2 aluminum foil–lined
rimmed baking sheets and
sprinkle with sugar mix-
ture. Using your fingers, spread sugar
mixture evenly over 1 side of slices so
they are completely covered.
2. Bake until bacon is dark brown
and sugar is bubbling, 20 to 25 minutes,
switching and rotating sheets halfway
through baking. Set wire rack over triple
layer of paper towels. Remove sheets
from oven as bacon finishes cooking and
transfer bacon to prepared wire rack. Let
cool for 5 minutes before serving.
SUPER-
FAST
BLISTERED
SHISHITO PEPPERS
SERVES 4 TO 6
TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
8 ounces shishito peppers
Heat oil in 12-inch skillet
over medium-high heat
until just smoking. Add
peppers and cook, with-
out stirring, until skins are
blistered, 3 to 5 minutes.
Using tongs, flip peppers;
continue to cook until blis-
tered on second side, 3 to
5 minutes longer. Transfer
to serving bowl, season
with kosher salt to taste,
and serve immediately.
MAKE-
AHEAD
GRAVLAX
SERVES 6 (MAKES ABOUT 1 POUND)
TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES,
PLUS 3 DAYS CHILLING
⅓ cup packed light brown sugar
¼ cup kosher salt
1 (1-pound) skin-on salmon fillet
3 tablespoons brandy
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill
1. Combine sugar and salt in bowl.
Place salmon, skin side down, in 13 by
9-inch baking dish. Drizzle entire sur-
face with brandy. Rub salmon evenly
with sugar mixture, pressing firmly to
adhere. Cover with dill, pressing firmly
to adhere.
2. Cover salmon loosely with plastic
wrap, top with square baking dish or
pie plate, and weight with several large,
heavy cans. Refrigerate until salmon
feels firm, about 3 days, basting salmon
with liquid released into dish once a day.
3. Scrape off dill. Remove salmon
from dish and pat dry with paper tow-
els. Slice thin and serve on crackers or
rye bread topped with crème fraîche,
shallot, and herbs (or other garnishes).
(Gravlax can be wrapped tightly in plas-
tic and refrigerated for up to 1 week.
Don’t slice until ready to serve.)
MAKE-
AHEAD
MUHAMMARA
SERVES 8 (MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS)
TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES,
PLUS 15 MINUTES CHILLING
1½ cups roasted red peppers, rinsed
1 cup walnuts, toasted
¼ cup crumbled plain wheat
crackers
3 tablespoons pomegranate
molasses
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
¾ teaspoon table salt
½ teaspoon ground cumin
⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper,
plus extra for seasoning
Lemon juice
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
(optional)
Pulse red peppers, walnuts, crackers,
pomegranate molasses, oil, salt, cumin,
ILLUSTRATION: JOHN BURGOYNE
and cayenne in food processor until
smooth, about 10 pulses. Transfer to
serving bowl, cover, and refrigerate for
15 minutes. (Dip can be refrigerated for
up to 24 hours; let come to room tem-
perature before serving.) Season with
lemon juice, salt, and extra cayenne to
taste, and sprinkle with parsley, if using.
Serve with pita bread or crudités.
 Staff-Favorite
Snacks
Many of our go-to bites for
company take just minutes
to prepare.

( Spanish corn nuts (quicos)

dusted with smoked paprika
–Paul Adams

( Dates sautéed in olive oil and

sprinkled with flake salt
–Amanda Agee

( Peanuts fried with makrut

lime leaves, dried chiles,
and garlic –Elizabeth Bomze
( Rolled slices of
mortadella, soppressata,
and capicola with aged
provolone, olives, roasted
peppers, and vinaigrette
–Kristina DeMichele

( Lemony, garlicky whipped feta

served with crudités –Keith Dresser
( Sliced prosciutto and basil leaves
wrapped around grissini –Steve Dunn
( Ripe tropical fruit (mango,
pineapple) sprinkled with Tajín
(a Mexican seasoning blend of
chiles, lime, and salt) –Andrea Geary
( Ice-cold oysters on the half shell
with lemon –Rebecca Hays
How to Build an Impressive Cheese Board ( Armenian string cheese, olives, pistachios,
You can’t go wrong with cheese, but with some thoughtful 4. MAKE YOUR OWN and dried apricots –Andrew Janjigian
preparation you can make a spectacular spread. ACCOMPANIMENTS ( Olives warmed in extra-virgin olive oil
3. CHOOSE NEUTRAL Homemade condiments with a sprig of thyme or rosemary and
1. BUY A VARIETY 2. WARM IT UP Most BREAD AND (such as our Spiced Fruit lemon peel –Lan Lam
For a mix of flavors and cheeses are best at room CRACKERS Mild-tasting and Nut Conserve, below) ( Stovetop popcorn dusted with Aleppo
textures, choose one temperature, so remove baguette (sliced on the bias will make the spread pepper or togarashi –Annie Petito
option from each profile: them from the refrigerator into wide, elegant pieces) exceptional and personal. ( Thick-sliced rustic bread doused with
sharp and crumbly (like at least 1 hour before serv- and water crackers allow Fresh fruits, crunchy nuts, olive oil, grilled/griddled, and topped
aged cheddar), soft and ing. Keep them wrapped the cheese to shine. and briny olives also add with tinned or preserved fish (boquerones,
bright (like chèvre), firm until party time to prevent ( TIP Sliced bread stales contrast. smoked mackerel, high-quality tuna in oil),
mayonnaise, lemon, and flake salt –Dan Souza
and nutty (like Gruyère), them from drying out. quickly, so we brush the
tangy and funky (like blue), ( TIP You can quickly slices with extra-virgin olive Our recipe for Red
ripe and oozy (like Brie). soften creamy varieties such oil, sprinkle them with salt, Pepper Jelly is available ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
( TIP Plan on serving as Brie by placing them in a and toast them on a rimmed for free for four months. ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
2 to 3 ounces of cheese zipper-lock bag and letting baking sheet in a 400-degree Go to CooksIllustrated. 6 ounces pitted Medjool dates
per person. them sit in 80-degree water. oven until golden brown. com/dec19. ¾ cup golden raisins
⅓ cup dried apricots
¾ cup whole almonds, toasted
MAKE-
AHEAD 1. Process pine nuts in food pro- 3. Transfer to container, cover, and ⅓ cup shelled pistachios, toasted
BLACK OLIVE
TAPENADE cessor until reduced to paste, about refrigerate for at least 18 hours or up to
SERVES 6 (MAKES ABOUT 1½ CUPS) 20 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl 2 weeks. Let come to room temperature 1. Bring port, water, salt, cinnamon,
TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES, and process until paste clings to sides and stir thoroughly before serving with and cloves to boil in medium saucepan
PLUS 18 HOURS CHILLING and avoids blade, about 5 seconds. baguette slices or crudités. over medium heat. Off heat, stir in
Repeat scraping and processing once MAKE- dates, raisins, and apricots and let cool
⅓cup pine nuts (pine nuts should form mostly smooth, AHEAD for about 30 minutes.
SPICED FRUIT AND
1½cups pitted kalamata olives tahini-like paste). NUT CONSERVE 2. Pulse almonds in food processor
½cup pitted salt-cured black olives 2. Scrape down sides of bowl to redis- SERVES 12 TO 16 (MAKES 2 CUPS) until finely chopped, about 10 pulses.
3tablespoons capers, rinsed tribute paste, then add olives, capers, TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES, Add date mixture and pistachios and
2teaspoons Dijon mustard mustard, anchovies, and garlic. Pulse until PLUS 45 MINUTES COOLING pulse until fruit is coarsely chopped,
2anchovy fillets, rinsed and finely chopped, about 15 pulses, scraping about 5 pulses.
patted dry down sides of bowl halfway through puls- ¾ cup ruby port 3. Transfer to bowl and let cool
½ garlic clove, minced ing. Transfer mixture to medium bowl ¼ cup water completely. Serve. (Conserve can be
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil and stir in oil until well combined. ¼ teaspoon table salt refrigerated for up to 2 months.)

n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
17
 Why You Should Make Garlic Confit
Silky, nutty-tasting garlic confit is a faster stovetop alternative to oven-roasted heads—
without any of their mess or waste. And it yields a valuable byproduct.
j BY ANNIE PETITO k

I
t recently occurred to me that I’ve I wondered if vegetable oil, which is far
been romanticizing roasted garlic. less expensive (our favorite supermarket
The cloves’ transformation from hard extra-virgin olive oil costs about five times as
and pungent to soft and mellow is much as our favorite all-purpose vegetable
practically magic, and there’s nothing eas- oil), would work just as well. The answer?
ier than wrapping a whole head in foil and Yes, but they are different. When we tasted
throwing it into the oven. But when I actu- batches side by side, the olive oil retained
ally peeled apart an entire oven-roasted enough of its ripe pungency to make for a
head (profound curiosity is part of my job more complex garlic oil, while the neutral
description), my rosy perception of this vegetable oil tasted purely garlicky. Both are
method and its product quickly changed. great options, so the choice is yours.
When cooked at 400 degrees for an hour These tender, creamy cloves can be used
(the standard approach), the outer cloves in countless applications—spread them on a
browned unevenly and many of the inner sandwich, stir them into pasta or potatoes,
cloves stayed pale and tasted more steamed scatter them on pizza—but here are my
than roasted. To achieve evenly colored top three: Stir them into a pan sauce for
and uniformly buttery-smooth cloves, a riff on chicken with 40 cloves of garlic;
I found that I needed to drop the oven work them into Parmesan shortbread for a
temperature to 250 degrees and then roast savory, sophisticated snack; and mash them
the garlic for a full 2 hours. Harvesting the with butter and parsley for a savory spread.
cloves was problematic, too: Though it Magical stuff, indeed.
was satisfying to squeeze them from their
papery chambers, it was also messy—not GARLIC CONFIT
to mention annoying, since a lot of the soft SERVES 4 TO 6 (MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP)
pulp inevitably got left behind. TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR

It was enough to make me look for a

better way to produce silky, spreadable, If you can find prepeeled garlic, use it for
nutty-sweet garlic. This is how I arrived at this recipe. Two heads of garlic yield about
garlic confit, a preparation in which peeled 30 cloves (see page 29 for a garlic-peeling
garlic cloves are cooked gently in a pot of Look for prepeeled garlic cloves for this recipe: They taste great as confit, trick). Use a small, deep saucepan to ensure
oil or fat until they are creamy and lightly and you can’t beat their convenience. that the garlic is submerged; don’t worry if
tanned. The result captures much of the the garlic floats as it cooks. For food safety
savory-sweetness of roasted garlic in about half an well as freshly peeled cloves—though whichever type reasons, use a clean spoon when dipping into the
hour. Each clove becomes meltingly tender, and you use, it’s important to trim the tough root ends, cooked garlic and oil, and store the cooked garlic
since nothing gets left behind in the skins, the yield which don’t soften. separately from the oil. Stir the confit into mashed

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY; ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN

is more predictable. Finally, the process generates a I also tested the choice of oil. Almost every recipe potatoes or pasta, spread it on bread for sandwiches,
valuable byproduct: fragrant garlic oil that can be calls for extra-virgin olive oil. But since heating olive or puree it into dips or dressings. For ideas on how
whisked into dressings, drizzled on cooked meats oil destroys some of its volatile aroma compounds, to use the oil, see page 29.
and vegetables, and sopped up with crusty bread.
Making garlic confit is so simple that most
approaches are very similar, but I came up with a The Problems with Roasted Garlic OUTER
few tweaks to ensure the best results. First, for the Roasted garlic and garlic confit both offer creamy cloves
CLOVES
most evenly cooked cloves, I found it was important that taste mellow and savory-sweet. But roasting has Unevenly
to keep the oil at a bare simmer and to use plenty of a couple of drawbacks. The first is time: It takes hours cooked
it, so the cloves were fully submerged—I needed a of low heat to produce evenly nutty, spreadably soft
full cup for 30 cloves (or about two heads of garlic). garlic (air doesn’t transfer heat as efficiently as oil does).
I also made sure to remove the cloves from the heat When roasted at hotter temperatures, the cloves cook
INNER
when they were uniformly pale tan; though they take unevenly, and sometimes the inner ones don’t color at all. CLOVES
on a little more color as they cool, cooking them to a The second drawback is yield: Some of the roasted garlic Little to no
darker brown risked turning their exteriors leathery. can get left behind when you squeeze out the cloves. color
Happily, I found that prepeeled garlic works just as

cook’s illustrated
18
Garlic confit is a great spread for crusty bread, but it has countless other uses. We work it into a quick pan sauce for sautéed chicken, savory shortbread, and a compound butter.
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil or vegetable oil,
or a combination, plus extra as needed
30 garlic cloves, peeled (¾ cup), root ends
trimmed
1. Combine oil and garlic in small saucepan (garlic
should be just submerged. If not, add extra oil to
cover). Bring to bare simmer over medium-low heat.
Reduce heat to low so tiny bubbles surround garlic,
but garlic is not actively frying. Continue to cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until garlic is soft and pale tan, 30 to
35 minutes longer. (Garlic should be soft enough to
smear on plate with back of spoon.)
2. Off heat, let garlic cool in oil for at least 15 min-
utes (garlic will darken slightly as it cools). Using
slotted spoon, transfer garlic to airtight container.
Strain oil through fine-mesh strainer into separate
airtight container and reserve for another use. (Once
completely cooled, refrigerate garlic for up to 1 week
or freeze for up to 6 months. Refrigerate oil for up to
4 days or freeze for up to 6 months.)
CHICKEN WITH 32 CLOVES OF GARLIC
SERVES 4 TO 6 TOTAL TIME: 50 MINUTES
Serve the chicken with crusty bread, steamed white
rice, or boiled potatoes.
4 (6- to 8-ounce) boneless, skinless chicken
breasts, trimmed
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon pepper
¼ cup vegetable oil, divided
1 shallot, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 teaspoons all-purpose flour
1⅓ cups chicken broth
⅔ cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1 recipe Garlic Confit
1. Cut each chicken breast in half crosswise, then
cut thick half in half again horizontally, creating
3 cutlets of similar thickness. Place cutlets between
sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound to even
½-inch thickness. Place cutlets in bowl and toss with
salt and pepper. Set aside.
2. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 12-inch skillet over
medium-high heat until just smoking. Place 6 cutlets
in skillet, reduce heat to medium, and cook until
golden brown on first side, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip and
cook until golden brown on second side, 2 to 3 min-
utes. Transfer cutlets to large plate. Repeat with
remaining 2 tablespoons oil and remaining 6 cutlets.
3. Add shallot to residual oil in skillet and cook
until softened, about 30 seconds. Add minced garlic
and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds. Add flour and
stir until no dry bits remain, about 1 minute. Add
broth, wine, and thyme and bring to simmer, scrap-
ing up any browned bits.
4. Add cutlets to sauce and simmer for 4 min-
utes, flipping halfway through simmering. Transfer
cutlets to clean platter. Continue to simmer sauce
until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes longer (you
should have about 1 cup sauce). Off heat, gently stir
in garlic confit so cloves remain intact. Season with
salt and pepper to taste. Spoon sauce over cutlets
and serve.
GARLIC AND PARMESAN CHEESE COINS
MAKES 64 CRACKERS
TOTAL TIME: 45 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR COOLING
You can refrigerate the dough for up to three days
or freeze it for up to one month. Thaw it in the
refrigerator overnight before proceeding with step 2.
1 recipe Garlic Confit
1½ cups (7½ ounces) all-purpose flour
1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon table salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
Pinch cayenne pepper
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
and chilled
n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
19
1. In small bowl, mash garlic confit with spatula or
fork to form smooth paste. Process flour, Parmesan,
baking powder, salt, pepper, and cayenne in food
processor until combined, about 10 seconds. Add
butter and garlic paste and process until dough forms
ball, about 35 seconds (there may be small bits of
loose dough). Transfer dough to counter and divide
in half. Roll each half into 8-inch log, wrap in plastic
wrap, and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour.
2. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and
lower-middle positions and heat oven to 325 degrees.
Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.
Unwrap logs and slice into ¼-inch-thick coins.
Space coins ½ inch apart on prepared sheets. Bake
until light golden around edges, about 16 minutes,
switching and rotating sheets halfway through bak-
ing. Transfer sheets to wire racks and let coins cool
completely on sheets before serving. (Coins can be
stored in airtight container at room temperature for
up to 1 week.)
GARLIC CONFIT BUTTER
SERVES 4 TO 6 (MAKES ABOUT ½ CUP)
TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES
Parsley adds color, but you can omit it, if desired.
Spread on crusty bread or use to dress roasted veg-
etables, boiled potatoes, or cooked shrimp or steak.
1 recipe Garlic Confit
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley (optional)
¼ teaspoon table salt
In small bowl, mash garlic confit with spatula to
form smooth paste. Add butter; parsley, if using; and
salt and continue to mash with spatula until combined
into smooth spread. Season with salt to taste.
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 Swiss Chard and Kale Gratin
For a new holiday side, we gussy up greens with a touch of cream and a crisp topping.
I
enjoy greens for their earthy sweetness, but
on their own they can be rather austere. So
when I wanted a greens-based side dish for
the holidays, I opted for a gratin. You don’t
come across green gratins every day, and when you
do they’re often drowned in cream, like creamed
spinach. I wanted my gratin to be just a little richer
than I normally make greens: I’d parcook the
leaves, add some dairy and a bread-crumb topping,
and finish everything in the oven.
One of the big challenges here is that most types of
greens wilt down significantly when cooked: You start
with an abundance and end up with a dearth. Some
recipes compensate for this by adding potatoes or a
second vegetable, but I wanted pure greens.
To avoid a squat, dense gratin, I strategically
selected two types of greens. First, curly kale: Its
sturdy, ruffled leaves would maintain some structure
after cooking and keep the gratin sufficiently volumi-
nous. Second, Swiss chard: Its delicate leaves collapse
when cooked, but its plentiful tender stems can also
be softened to add bulk. In a 1:2 ratio, the gutsy kale
and mineral-y chard made great flavor partners, too.
To serve eight to 10 people, I needed 3 pounds of
greens, which meant that I’d need to parcook heaps
and heaps of leaves before assembling the gratin.
Blanching or sautéing the leaves—the two strategies
that most recipes call for—would require cooking in
several smaller batches. Instead, I turned to steaming:
I brought 2 cups of water to boil in a Dutch oven,
loaded in the heftier kale, and covered the pot. After
5 minutes, the kale had wilted enough for me to stir
in the more delicate chard. This way, all the leaves
cooked efficiently and evenly.
As the greens drained, I considered the dairy com-
ponent, which for a gratin is often cream thickened
with a roux. But every iteration I tried was stodgy.
Why not skip the roux and simply pour in the cream?
I added only as much cream (spiced with fresh nut-
meg) as the parcooked leaves could hold without
making the gratin liquid-y, which amounted to
1 cup. The cream just coated the greens, contribut-
ing silky richness without masking the vegetal flavors.
For the topping, I pulsed rustic white bread in a
food processor to create craggy crumbs. (While the
processor was out, I used it to finely chop an onion
and the chard stems, which I then sautéed with
fresh thyme and stirred into the steamed greens.)
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j BY ANDREW JANJIGIAN k
The Swiss chard stems, blitzed in a food processor and
sautéed, add bulk to the casserole.
I seasoned the crumbs with Parmesan and garlic and
drizzled in some olive oil to help them crisp. Next
I transferred the creamy greens to a baking dish,
sprinkled on the topping, and baked the casserole
until it bubbled and browned. Here was a winning
gratin for the holidays—or for any day.
SWISS CHARD AND KALE GRATIN
SERVES 8 TO 10 TOTAL TIME: 1½ HOURS
Do not use rainbow chard for this recipe; it will have
a muddy-brown color when cooked. The greens
should not be completely dry after pressing in step 4.
2 pounds Swiss chard
1 pound curly kale, stemmed and cut into
1-inch-wide strips
2 garlic cloves, peeled
4 ounces rustic white bread, cut into ¾-inch
cubes (3 cups)
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated (1 cup)
¾ teaspoon table salt, divided
½ teaspoon pepper, divided
1 onion, chopped coarse
1½ teaspoons minced fresh thyme
1 cup heavy cream
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
cook’s illustrated
20
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position
and heat oven to 375 degrees. Stem chard, then cut
stems into 2-inch lengths and set aside. Slice leaves
into 1-inch-wide strips. Bring 2 cups water to boil
in Dutch oven over high heat. Add kale, cover, and
reduce heat to medium-high. Cook until kale is
wilted, about 5 minutes, stirring halfway through
cooking. Add chard leaves, cover, and continue to
cook until chard is wilted, about 4 minutes longer,
stirring halfway through cooking. Transfer to colander
set in sink and let drain. (Do not wash pot.)
2. Pulse garlic in food processor until coarsely
chopped, 5 to 7 pulses. Add bread and 3 tablespoons
oil and pulse until largest crumbs are smaller than
¼ inch (most will be much smaller), 8 to 10 pulses.
Add Parmesan, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon
pepper and pulse to combine. Transfer to bowl.
3. Add onion and chard stems to now-empty
processor and process until finely chopped, scraping
down sides of bowl as needed, 20 to 30 seconds.
Transfer to now-empty pot. Add thyme, remain-
ing 2 tablespoons oil, remaining ½ teaspoon salt,
and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cook over
medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until mois-
ture has evaporated and mixture is just beginning to
brown, 8 to 10 minutes.
4. Using spatula, press gently on greens in colan-
der to remove excess moisture. Transfer greens to
pot with onion mixture. Add cream and nutmeg and
stir to combine. Transfer mixture to 13 by 9-inch
baking dish. Sprinkle bread-crumb mixture evenly
over surface. Bake until topping is golden brown and
filling bubbles around edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Let
cool for 10 minutes before serving.
TO MAKE AHEAD: Filling and bread-crumb
topping can be refrigerated in separate airtight con-
tainers for up to 24 hours. Increase baking time by
5 to 10 minutes.
Two Greens Are Better
Than One
To keep our gratin from collapsing into a compact
mat, we include two types of greens. PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY
Swiss chard leaves Kale maintains some
wilt significantly but structure after cooking,
contribute mineral-y keeping the gratin
flavor and silky texture. voluminous and light.
 Yule Log Revival
A fluffy, tender cake that rolls effortlessly around a plush, stay-put filling, and
most of the work can be completed days in advance? It’s a Christmas miracle.
j BY ANDREA GEARY k

W
hen it comes to holiday celebra-
tions, I’m a traditionalist. But
somehow I’d managed never to
make a Yule log. It’s not only one
of the oldest finales to a Christmas feast but also a
dessert with a huge “wow” factor: a moist, tender
cake rolled around a rich, creamy filling; coated
in frosting; and adorned with playful woodsy gar-
nishes. This year I decided I would finally take on
the elaborate holiday project.
But as I started to review recipes, I found I was
more likely to read about how suspenseful—even
harrowing—the dessert can be to assemble than
about how wonderful it can be to eat. Will the
filling be squeezed out as you roll? Will the cake
crack? After all that work and stress, will your
creation look convincingly log-like? Or more like
a pile of mulch?
Of course, my own recipe had to be delicious.
But it also had to be a sure thing: a cake that rolled
without fracturing and a filling that stayed put, all
encased in a neat layer of frosting.

The Best Cake for the Job

I familiarized myself with the basic method: Bake
cake batter in a shallow rimmed baking sheet. Invert
the hot cake onto a confectioners’ sugar–dusted dish
towel (the sugar prevents sticking) and roll it up
so that the cake sets into a curled shape as it cools.
Unroll the cake, spread the filling over the cake,
and roll it up again—without the towel this time. Chocolate cookie crumbles and ground pistachios serve as the forest floor and sawdust beneath a cake log rolled
Then cover the whole thing with buttercream or a with a caramel-espresso filling, coated in ganache bark, and adorned with meringue bracket mushrooms.
rich ganache.
Though chocolate cake is more common, sponge but has more fat that helps tenderize it and A single bite confirmed that chiffon had been an
I decided on a vanilla cake: A blond “log” would look makes it more forgiving when baked. Our recipe calls excellent choice: It was fluffy but also tender, moist,
more like actual wood, and its relatively neutral taste for whisking egg yolks, water, vanilla, and vegetable and crack-free thanks to the oil. But now I had new
would allow for some creativity when it came time to oil into the dry ingredients (cake flour, sugar, bak- problems: Lots of the soft filling had squished out,
flavor the filling. But as I started to bake, I noticed ing powder, and salt) and then whipping the egg and the ganache had a worrisome tendency to sepa-
a problem: Sponge cake—the most common choice whites and folding them into the batter. Even if you rate from the surface of the roll when I sliced the cake.
for rolled cakes—has a bouncy texture due to its large lose some volume while folding, the baking powder
amount of whipped eggs and small amount of fat. ensures a fluffy cake. On a Roll
But that bounce also means that sponge cake can be I baked a chiffon cake, rolled it in a dish towel, The ganache was peeling because the cake’s exterior
PHOTOGRAPHY: CARL TREMBLAY

a tad chewy and tough. It’s also prone to cracking if
it’s at all overbaked.
I decided to try a chiffon cake, which I hadn’t
seen in many Yule log recipes. Chiffon is similar to
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and then unfurled it once it had cooled. I then spread
on a placeholder filling of sweetened whipped cream
and rolled the cake back up. While the log chilled,
I heated some cream, poured it over chopped
bittersweet chocolate with a bit of corn syrup for
shine, and stirred everything together to make a
smooth ganache, my choice for the frosting “bark.”
When the ganache had cooled and thickened to a
pudding-like consistency, I spread it over my cake.
was dry; in some places it was even encrusted with
confectioners’ sugar from the towel. Thankfully, the
fix was simple. An outlier approach by none other
than Julia Child ditched the confectioners’ sugar and
instead called for wrapping the cake in a clean, damp
dish towel. This worked like a charm, and the ganache
now adhered nicely. The damp towel also left the sur-
face so moist that the cake could be wrapped, filled (but
not frosted), and chilled for 2 days with no ill effects.

n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
21
Buttons Don’t Grow on Trees
Most Yule logs are festooned with button mush-
rooms made of meringue. But that doesn’t make
much sense since bracket fungi are the type you’re
most likely to see sprouting from a log or stump.
So, in the spirit of authenticity, we developed a
recipe for meringue bracket-style mushrooms.
MERINGUE BRACKET-STYLE
MUSHROOMS
MAKES ABOUT 30 MERINGUES TOTAL TIME: 3 HOURS
You will need a pastry bag and a pastry tip
with a ¼-inch round opening, available at craft
stores, for this recipe. The meringues can be
made up to two weeks in advance; store them
in an airtight container directly after cooling.
This recipe will make more mushrooms than
you need, so you can select your favorites for
decorating your Yule log. For the best results,
attach them to the log no more than 10 min-
utes before serving.
3 large egg whites
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
Pinch table salt
⅔ cup (4⅔ ounces) sugar
1. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle
and lower-middle positions and heat oven to
200 degrees. Using pencil, draw 15 half-circles
ranging from 1 to 2 inches wide on 1 sheet of
parchment paper, leaving at least 1½ inches
between half-circles. Repeat with second sheet
of parchment. Place parchment pencil side down
on 2 rimmed baking sheets.
2. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk attach-
ment, whip egg whites on medium speed until
foamy, about 1 minute. Add cream of tartar and
salt, increase speed to medium-high, and whip
until soft peaks form, about 1 minute. With mixer
running, slowly add sugar. Increase speed to high
and whip until very thick and stiff peaks form, 3 to
4 minutes.
3. Fit pastry bag with ¼-inch round pastry tip
and fill with meringue. Using half-circle as guide,
pipe concentric arcs of meringue, either smooth
or frilly, until half-circle is filled. Repeat with
remaining half-circles. Pipe a stem, about ½ inch
wide and 1 inch long, onto straight side of each
half-circle. Moisten your fingertip with water and
smooth any unwanted peaks. Bake meringues
for 2 hours, turn off oven, and leave meringues
in oven until dry and crisp, about 30 minutes.
4. After Yule log has come to room tem-
perature, and no more than 10 minutes before
serving, use paring knife to make small incision
in side of log. Gently insert mushroom stem
into incision until straight side of mushroom
rests against log. Repeat with desired number
of mushrooms.
Christmas in the Test Kitchen
Things got rather festive when we kicked off our Yule log development process by sampling five published
recipes, including one from our archives. Most of the cakes looked impressive, and each offered a good idea
or two, but none of them delivered our idea of the full package: a realistic look, ease of preparation, and
great taste and texture.
Bittersweet Japanese Swiss Roll Bûche de Nöel Cordon Rose Chocolate Coffee-Caramel
Chocolate Roulade Bake King Singapore Bon Appétit Christmas Log Swiss Roll
Cook’s Illustrated The Cake Bible Martha Stewart
Rose Levy Beranbaum
Emboldened by Child’s nonconformism, I decided As a finishing touch, I traced the tines of a fork over
to break from tradition yet again: Instead of rolling the surface of the ganache to create a bark-like effect,
up the cake from the long side, as virtually all recipes and my project was complete. Turns out, when you
directed and which I found awkward and unwieldy, match the ideal cake to the ideal filling, making a log
I rolled up mine from the short side, which made can be as easy as falling off one.
it much easier to control the center of the cake as
I rolled. This technique produced a chubbier, more
impressive log with a graceful spiral. YULE LOG DISASTERS
Our early experiments produced a variety of
Filling In the Details tragic results.
I next turned my attention to the whipped cream
CAKE DROUGHT
filling. It needed some real personality to stand up to
Sponge cake—the typical choice—has lots of
the bittersweet chocolate ganache. Espresso powder
whipped eggs and little fat, so it’s dry and prone
would amp up the cream, but so would caramel.
to cracking if overbaked.
Why not use both? The bitterness of the coffee would
complement the sweet caramel. I brought a cup of
heavy cream and some espresso powder to a simmer
in one pot while melting some sugar in another. When
the sugar had caramelized, I whisked in the warm,
flavored cream. Then I added a cup of cold cream
to cool the mixture and refrigerated it. This filling
whipped up just like regular whipped cream, and its
flavor was outstanding, if a little sweet. FILLING TSUNAMI
Last task: Find an easy way to firm up the filling A bit of filling is displaced with each turn,
so it would stay put. I tried adding mascarpone, so it builds in front of the log, finally overflowing
the soft Italian cheese. It thickened the filling a at the last turn.
bit, but not enough. How about cream cheese?
FROST(ING) HEAVE
I melted some into the warm caramel before chill-
When the crumb is too dry, the ganache has
ing the mixture.
nothing to cling to and separates from the cake
This new filling whipped to a promisingly thick
when it’s sliced.
buttercream-like consistency. A quick taste revealed
that the cream cheese had tempered the sweetness of
the filling without making it taste cheesy. Best of all,
the filling didn’t move when I rolled the springy yet
ILLUSTRATION: JAY LAYMAN
cooperative cake. Suddenly, rolling a Yule log had
gone from anxiety-inducing to exhilarating.
Trimming the ends of my Yule log revealed an
elegant spiral within. I then cut off one end on the E D I B L E F O R E S T F LO O R
bias and attached it to the side of the log with some Our recipe for Chocolate Crumbles is available for free
ganache before frosting the rest of the log. But I left for four months at CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19
the cut ends exposed to show off the perfect swirl.
cook’s illustrated
22
 CARAMEL-ESPRESSO YULE LOG
SERVES 10 TO 12
TOTAL TIME: 1¾ HOURS, PLUS 4 HOURS COOLING
We developed this recipe using Philadelphia Cream
Cheese Brick Original. The filling must chill for at least
1½ hours before whipping, so make it before organiz-
ing the ingredients for the cake and ganache. A smooth
dish towel works best for rolling the cake. Some of the
cake may cling to the towel, but it washes out easily.
Use a high-quality chocolate for the ganache. We
prefer to leave the cut surfaces of the log exposed, but
there is enough ganache to cover them, if desired. For
a more elaborate presentation, place the cake on a bed
of Chocolate Crumbles (the recipe is available for free
for four months at CooksIllustrated.com/dec19) and
decorate with Meringue Bracket-Style Mushrooms.
Filling
2 cups heavy cream, divided
1 tablespoon instant espresso powder
¾ cup (5¼ ounces) granulated sugar
¼ cup water
1 tablespoon light corn syrup
4 ounces cream cheese, cut into 8 pieces
and softened
Cake
1⅓ cups (5⅓ ounces) cake flour
¾ cup (5¼ ounces) granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon table salt
5 large eggs, separated
½ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup water
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
Ganache
¾ cup heavy cream
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped fine
2 teaspoons light corn syrup
Confectioners’ sugar (optional)
1. FOR THE FILLING: Pour 1 cup cream
into wide bowl. Whisk together espresso powder and
remaining 1 cup cream in small saucepan and bring
to simmer over medium heat. Remove from heat
and cover to keep hot. Bring sugar, water, and corn
syrup to boil in large heavy-bottomed saucepan over
medium-high heat. Cook, without stirring, until mix-
ture is straw-colored, 6 to 8 minutes. Reduce heat to
medium-low and continue to cook, swirling saucepan
occasionally, until mixture is deep coppery brown
and just starting to smoke, 4 to 7 minutes longer. Off
heat, carefully whisk in hot cream mixture a little at
a time (caramel will bubble and steam). Add cream
cheese. Cover and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk until
mostly smooth (some small flecks of cream cheese are
OK). Transfer mixture to bowl with cream and stir to
combine. Cover and refrigerate until mixture registers
50 degrees or below, at least 1½ hours or up to 4 days.
S T E P BY S T E P ASSEMBLING A YULE LOG
1. Lay damp towel over cake on 2. Starting from short side, gently 3. Unroll cake. Spread filling evenly
rack. Invert second rack over roll cake and towel together into over cake, leaving ½-inch margin
towel. Invert cake; remove rack. jelly roll shape. Let cool for 1 hour. on each short side.
4. Reroll cake without towel. 5. Trim ½-inch slice from each end 6. Transfer cake to platter. Rest
of log. To make branch stump, cut stump against log. Spread ganache
1 end of cake at 45-degree angle, over log and stump. Use fork to
starting 1½ inches from end. make wood-grain pattern.
2. FOR THE CAKE: Adjust oven rack to middle 6. Transfer chilled filling to bowl of stand mixer fit-
position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease ted with whisk attachment. Whip on high speed until
18 by 13-inch rimmed baking sheet, line with parch- mixture is thick and fluffy and resembles buttercream
ment paper, and lightly grease parchment. Whisk frosting, 1½ to 2 minutes. Gently unroll cake with
flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt together in large, short side parallel to counter edge (innermost edge
wide bowl. Whisk egg yolks, oil, water, and vanilla of cake will remain slightly curled; do not flatten).
into flour mixture until smooth batter forms. Spread filling evenly over cake, leaving ½-inch margin
3. Using stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, on each short side. Reroll cake, leaving towel behind
whip egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-low as you roll. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at
speed until foamy, about 1 minute. Increase speed to least 20 minutes or up to 2 days.
medium-high and whip until stiff peaks form, 1½ to 7. Arrange two 12 by 4-inch strips of parchment
2 minutes. Transfer one-third of whipped egg whites 1 inch apart on serving platter. Unwrap cake and
to batter and whisk gently until mixture is lightened. place on cutting board. Using sharp chef’s knife,
Using rubber spatula, gently fold remaining egg trim ½-inch slice from each end of log, wiping knife
whites into batter. Pour batter into prepared sheet clean between cuts; discard trimmings. To make
and spread evenly. Firmly tap sheet on counter 3 times branch stump, cut 1 end of cake at 45-degree angle,
to remove large air bubbles. Bake until cake springs starting 1½ inches from end of log (shorter side of
back when pressed lightly in center, 12 to 14 minutes. stump will be 1½ inches long). Transfer larger cake
While cake bakes, soak clean dish towel with water piece to platter, centering it lengthwise on parch-
and wring out thoroughly. ment. To attach stump, rest straight side of smaller
4. Transfer sheet to wire rack. Immediately run piece against side of log. Fill in top of space between
knife around edge of sheet, then carefully invert cake pieces with about 1 tablespoon ganache. Using offset
onto second wire rack. Carefully remove parchment. spatula, gently spread remaining ganache over log,
Lay damp towel over cake and invert first wire rack leaving cut ends exposed. Use tines of fork to make
over towel. Invert cake and remove rack. Starting wood-grain pattern on surface of ganache. Carefully
from short side, gently roll cake and towel together slide parchment from beneath cake (hold stump in
into jelly roll shape. Let cake cool on rack, seam side place with your fingertip while sliding out parch-
down, for 1 hour. ment). Refrigerate cake, uncovered, to slightly set
5. FOR THE GANACHE: Bring cream to ganache, about 20 minutes. (Cake can be covered
simmer in small saucepan over medium heat. Place loosely and refrigerated for up to 24 hours; let stand
chocolate and corn syrup in bowl, pour cream over at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)
top, and let stand for 1 minute. Whisk mixture until Dust lightly with confectioners’ sugar, if using. To
smooth. Let cool until mixture has consistency of slice, dip sharp knife in very hot water and wipe dry
pudding, about 1 hour. between cuts. Serve.
n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
23
Choosing a Cookware Set
Our advice has always been to buy the best individual pans.
A few innovative sets compelled us to take another look.
j BY LISA McMANUS k
I
f you want to cook with confidence, quality
cookware is essential. You don’t have to spend
a ton of money; choosing well is key. While
we usually advise that you buy cookware piece
by piece so you pay for only what you need, readers
often ask us about cookware sets. There have been
some interesting developments since the last time
we tested cookware sets, so we decided to retest.
We bought eight sets, including the winning and
Best Buy sets from our previous testing.
What’s Wrong with (Most) Cookware Sets
Manufacturers of cookware sets typically customize
their contents for retailers, meaning that two 10-piece
sets from the same brand bought at different stores
can contain a different
lineup of pans. Some
sets also contain odd-
ball additions such
as colanders to make
them seem more valu-
able. What’s worse,
manufacturers often
cut costs by shrink-
ing the pans. As a
Many sets have oddly sized result, it’s rare to find
pots that are hard to cook in. what we regard as
“full-size” cookware,
such as a 12-inch skillet, 4-quart saucepan, or 8- to
12-quart stockpot, in a set. Too-small, crowded pans
tend to boil over, steam food instead of searing it, and
require cooking food in batches.
Quality can be an issue, too. We’ve seen cookware
sets for astonishingly low prices, but too many con-
sist of flimsy nonstick-coated aluminum pans that
are incapable of transmitting heat uniformly and are
not durable. It’s a false economy if you’re constantly
fighting your pans just to cook a good meal and you
replace them every few years.
However, we recently found new brands that
focus on construction quality, sell directly to consum-
ers to reduce prices, and offer standard combinations
of pans, with some sets even featuring practical pieces
of full-size cookware. We included five of these sets
in our lineup, as well as an innovative set launched
by a brand we’ve liked in the past.
Nearly all the sets we bought included the following
pans (all slightly smaller than we preferred): a 10-inch
skillet, a 3-quart saucepan, a 3-quart sauté pan (a deep,
lidded frying pan with tall sides), and a 5-quart (or
larger) stockpot. Most sets had additional pans, but
we focused our testing on the four they had in com-
mon to help us compare set to set. In the skillets, we
seared steaks, made pan sauce, and browned beef for
shepherd’s pie. In the saucepans, we browned butter
and boiled and mashed potatoes to top the shepherd’s
pies. In the stockpots, we seared batches of beef for
stew and tried to cook 2 pounds of angel hair pasta to
test their capacity. In the sauté pans, we shallow-fried
Swedish meatballs, pouring off the hot oil and build-
ing the creamy sauce with the fond, and sautéed
heaps of chopped kale. We asked additional testers
to try the pans and then finished with abuse testing
to gauge the durability of each skillet, since that’s the
hardest-working pan in most kitchens. Throughout
testing, we hand-washed the pans and rated them on
how easy they were to handle and maintain.
Form Equals Function in Cookware Sets
We were pleased that every set contained fully clad
cookware composed of three or more layers of alu-
minum and stainless steel bonded together. Fully
clad pans heat more evenly and brown foods more
uniformly than pans made of other materials or by
other methods. Not surprisingly, every set produced
acceptable food, and most seemed solidly built.
That said, we did have preferences among the
sets. Design features such as handles that were
uncomfortable or that heated up on the stovetop
made pans harder to use. Handle angles mattered,
too, especially when hoisting heavy stockpots or
skillets. Dutch ovens and skillets that provided larger
cooking surfaces allowed us to brown meat in fewer
batches and speed up cooking. Wider openings on
saucepans and stockpots helped us see and keep food
moving, which was helpful when stirring browned
butter; lower, more flared (rather than cupped) sides
on skillets helped steam evaporate and food brown
evenly. The balance of a pan’s weight is an under-
rated design element that affects cooking efficiency:
Some sets’ pans felt off-balance, clunky, and hard to
lift and maneuver.
One of the attractions of a cookware set is the
idea that someone wiser has preassembled the most
functional combination of pieces for you. That’s not
always the case: Two of the sets in our lineup had
no vessel big enough to cook 2 pounds of angel hair
pasta or to make our beef stew recipe. These sets lost
points for lacking the pans we deemed necessary for
a foundational package of cookware.
Too-small or oddly shaped cookware was an issue,
too. One of the 10-inch skillets tapered down to just
cook’s illustrated
24
TESTING
COOKWARE SETS
We tested eight cookware sets, comparing the skillets,
saucepans, sauté pans, and stockpots or Dutch ovens from
each set. In the skillets, we made steak with pan sauce
and browned beef for shepherd’s pie. In the saucepans,
we browned butter and made the mashed potatoes for
the shepherd’s pie. In the sauté pans, we made Swedish
meatballs and sautéed kale. In the stockpots/Dutch ovens,
we cooked angel hair pasta and made beef Burgundy. We
rated the four pieces of cookware on their performance,
ease of use, and cleanup/durability. We also evaluated the
full composition of pans in each set. We purchased all the
sets online, and the prices shown are what we paid. Sets
appear at right in order of preference.
COMPOSITION OF SET:
We rated each set on the number of functional pieces
it contained, giving higher marks to a good selection of
essential cookware in useful sizes.
PERFORMANCE:
We awarded points to pans that produced well-cooked
food, comparing each pan in a set to the same pan in the
other sets and to our test kitchen winner in that category.
EASE OF USE:
We awarded points to pans in any given set with features
that made them easy and comfortable to use, such as bal-
ance and handle positioning and design.
CLEANUP/DURABILITY:
We awarded points to pans that were easier to keep
clean and to those that resisted scuffing, damage, or
warping during routine cooking and handling. We also
awarded points to skillets that emerged with the least
amount of damage after abuse testing.
KEY
SEE HOW THE TESTING
WAS DONE GOOD +++
FAIR ++
CooksIllustrated.com/DEC19 POOR +
7 inches of available cooking surface, barely enough
room for a single steak. It was also interesting that
all the sets included sauté pans: We don’t find them
essential and typically reach for a 12-inch skillet or
7-quart Dutch oven instead. Two sets did not have
stockpots, and one set contained a miniature pot
that claimed to hold 5 quarts. It did, technically, if
filled up to the rim, but at just 8.5 inches in diameter
with sides 5.25 inches tall, it was barely bigger than
H I G H LY R E C O M M E N D E D

ALL-CLAD D3 Tri-Ply Bonded Cookware Set, 10 Piece COMMENTS: These fully clad pans feel bal-
MODEL: 8400000962 PRICE: $559.94 anced and are tough as nails. They brown
MATERIALS: Fully clad tri-ply stainless steel and aluminum foods beautifully, and their handles stay
PIECES: 6 pans, 4 lids: 8-qt stockpot with lid, 3-qt sauté pan with lid, 3-qt saucepan with lid,
cool. The set offers essential pieces, in
2-qt saucepan with lid, 8-in frying pan, 10-in frying pan practical sizes, that will last a lifetime.
The set price is a bargain: The
OTHER PAN YOU MIGHT NEED: 12-in nonstick skillet COMPOSITION OF SET: +++
8-quart stockpot alone usually
PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: +++ CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +++
retails for nearly $340.

TRAMONTINA Gourmet 12-Piece Tri-Ply Clad Cookware Set COMMENTS: This huge collection of
BEST practical pans in useful sizes and shapes
MODEL: 80116/249DS PRICE: $225.93 BUY
MATERIALS: Fully clad tri-ply stainless steel and aluminum comes at a truly bargain price for clad cook-
PIECES: 7 pans, 5 lids: 12-qt stockpot with lid, 5-qt Dutch oven with lid, 3-qt saucepan with lid,
ware. Our only quibble: The pans in this
1.5-qt saucepan with lid, 5-qt sauté pan with lid, 10-in frying pan, 12-in frying pan set are a bit heavier and not quite as
well-balanced as those in our top-rated
OTHER PAN YOU MIGHT NEED: 12-in nonstick skillet COMPOSITION OF SET: +++
set, and the handles get hot.
PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: ++ CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +++

RECOMMENDED

ALL-CLAD D3 Compact Collection
5-Piece Set
MODEL: ST40005 PRICE: $399.95
MATERIALS: Fully clad tri-ply stainless steel and
aluminum
PIECES: 3 pans, 2 lids: 5-qt stockpot with lid
(also fits skillet), 3-qt saucepan with lid,
10.5-in skillet
OTHER PANS YOU MIGHT NEED: 12-in
nonstick skillet, Dutch oven or larger stockpot
COMPOSITION OF SET: ++
PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: ++
CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +++
COMMENTS: We loved that this nesting cook-
ware was easy to store. To make that work,
the skillet got wider (which we liked), but the
so-called stockpot became stumpy and flat; it
was impossible to cook more than a pound
of pasta in it, and even that was a challenge. If
you’re willing to work around this, it’s sturdy,
high-performance cookware.
POTLUCK Cookware Set
MODEL: CKW-01 PRICE: $160.00
MATERIALS: Fully clad tri-ply stainless steel
and aluminum
PIECES: 4 pans, 3 lids: 8-qt stockpot with lid,
3-qt saucepan with lid, 1.5-qt saucepan with
lid, 10-in skillet
OTHER PAN YOU MIGHT NEED: 12-in
nonstick skillet
COMPOSITION OF SET: +++
PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: +++
CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +
COMMENTS: This well-designed set offered
balanced pans with practical sizes and shapes
and comfortable, stay-cool handles at an
outstanding price. Everything cooked beauti-
fully. The skillet warped when heated to
500 degrees on an induction burner, leading us
to worry about the set’s durability. (However,
a second copy of the skillet did not warp when
we heated it more gradually to 500 degrees.)
GREAT JONES Family Style Collection MADE IN COOKWARE
MODEL: n/a PRICE: $395.00
MATERIALS: Fully clad tri-ply stainless steel
and aluminum; enameled cast-iron Dutch
oven; nonstick skillet
PIECES: 5 pans, 3 lids: 6.75-qt Dutch oven with
lid, 8-qt stockpot, 3-qt saucepan with lid, 3-qt
sauté pan with lid, 9-in ceramic nonstick skillet
OTHER PAN YOU MIGHT NEED: 12-in
nonstick skillet
COMPOSITION OF SET: +++
PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: ++
CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +½
COMMENTS: We loved that this set had mixed
materials; the cast-iron Dutch oven made great
stew, the fully clad metal stockpot worked well
for pasta, and the tiny nonstick pan was handy
for eggs. We disliked the handles, which were
uncomfortable and got hot. The clad cook-
ware stained more easily than other pans and
became permanently discolored.
The Starter Kit
MODEL: KIT-5-STA-NA PRICE: $260.00
MATERIALS: Fully clad 5-ply stainless steel
and aluminum
PIECES: 3 pans, 2 lids: 5-qt stockpot with lid,
2-qt saucepan with lid, 10-in frying pan
OTHER PANS YOU MIGHT NEED: 8-qt
stockpot, 12-in nonstick skillet
COMPOSITION OF SET: ++
PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: ++
CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +++
COMMENTS: Excellent browning and com-
fortable handles helped this cookware do
well, but we could fit only 1 pound of pasta
in the dinky stockpot, which was narrow
and tall, and had to stir furiously while
cooking it to keep it from sticking; it took
many more batches than usual to brown
the beef for the stew. The frying pan’s sides
tapered down to a 7-inch cooking surface,
which felt cramped.

R E C O M M E N D E D W I T H R E S E R VAT I O N S

MISEN Starter Cookware Set COMMENTS: This thick, five-ply cookware BRIGADE KITCHEN The Set COMMENTS: This set lacked a stockpot; we
MODEL: MK-2071 PRICE: $225.00 browned foods well, but the pans felt heavy MODEL: n/a PRICE: $260.00 couldn’t cook pasta or stew. The knife was
MATERIALS: Fully clad 5-ply stainless steel and off-balance. The handles got hot and were MATERIALS: Fully clad 5-ply stainless steel unnecessary in a cookware set. We wish the
and aluminum hard to comfortably grip. We liked that the and aluminum saucepan were bigger. That said, the included
PIECES: 3 pans, 2 lids: 3-qt saucier with lid, 3-qt
set included a saucier with rounded corners PIECES: 3 pans, 2 lids, and 1 knife: 2.5-qt
pans cooked fairly well, the handles (though
sauté pan with lid (also fits skillet), 10-in skillet for easy stirring. The set’s biggest flaw: It had saucepan with lid (also fits skillet), 9.5-in skil- skinny) stayed cool, and the pans were tough.
no stockpot or vessel larger than 3 quarts, so let, 3-qt sauté pan with lid, 7-in santoku knife
OTHER PANS YOU MIGHT NEED: 8-qt stock-
we couldn’t cook pasta or stew.
pot, 12-in nonstick skillet OTHER PANS YOU MIGHT NEED: 8-qt stock-
COMPOSITION OF SET: + pot, 12-in nonstick skillet, larger saucepan
PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: +½ COMPOSITION OF SET: +
CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +++ PERFORMANCE: +++ EASE OF USE: ++
CLEANUP/DURABILITY: +++

our favorite large saucepan. We could cook a single
pound of angel hair pasta in it, but it took work to
prevent the pasta from clumping.
An innovative “compact” set from a familiar
brand had a different version of a 5-quart stockpot
that was flattened and low-sided like a sauté pan.
Again, we barely managed to cook just 1 pound
of pasta in it, and water splashed everywhere as we
frantically tried to prevent the pasta from clumping.
The Best Cookware Set
None of the new sets bested the favorite from
our previous testing. Our top-ranked set was
the All-Clad D3 Tri-Ply Bonded Cookware Set,
10 Piece. This fully clad cookware is hard to beat,
with its Goldilocks combination of sturdiness
without heaviness, outstanding cooking perfor-
mance, and remarkable durability. It costs about
$560, but when you consider that the 8-quart
stockpot it includes costs nearly $340 on its own,
this set is a comparative bargain and a worthwhile
investment that will last a lifetime. Our runner-up,
the Tramontina Gourmet 12-Piece Tri-Ply Clad
Cookware Set, contains an astonishing number
of full-size pans and is moderately priced at about
$230. A slightly less well-balanced and well-designed
set than the All-Clad, it nonetheless performed
admirably and is durable to boot.

n ov e m b e r & d e c e m b e r 2019
25
 Finding the Best Sushi Rice
We tasted eight versions of this versatile staple in search of a product
that balances fluffiness with chewiness and a hint of stickiness.
j BY LAUREN SAVOIE k

O
ften sold in the United A Millimeter Makes a Difference
States as Calrose rice, sushi Like Arborio rice, which is used to make
(or japonica) rice features risotto, sushi rice has confusingly been clas-
short, squat grains and has a sified as both a short- and medium-grain
distinct stickiness when cooked. It gets this rice by different sources (see “Are Arborio
stickiness from a relatively high amount Rice and Sushi Rice Interchangeable?”).
of a starch component called amylopec- We did notice that grain size varied a lot:
tin, which gelatinizes during cooking and MEDIUM Some products were oval, almost round,
results in rice with a tender, creamy tex- SHORT GRAIN while others didn’t look that different
ture and subtle chewiness. GRAIN from long-grain rice. The Federal Grain
Sushi rice traces its origins back to north- Inspection Service classifies raw rice with
east Asia (particularly Japan), but it is now a 2:1 to 2.9:1 length-to-width ratio as
grown extensively in the United States. medium-grain and rice with a 1.9:1 or
California, where 95 percent of the rice lower length-to-width ratio as short-grain.
grown is sushi-style rice, ranks second only To zoom in on length-to-width ratio, we
to Arkansas (which grows mostly long-grain used calipers to measure 20 grains from
rice) in U.S. rice production. According to multiple packages of each rice and averaged
the California Rice Commission, nearly the results. The length-to-width ratios of
every piece of sushi eaten in the United the products in our lineup ranged from
States is made with California-grown rice. 1.6 to 1 to 2.2 to 1, meaning the products
But it’s not used only in sushi—this type The products in our lineup were a mix of short- and medium-grain rices. were a mix of short- and medium-grain
of rice is a staple in many Asian and Asian We liked products with shorter grains. rices. Our tasters had a slight preference for
American homes and is featured in dishes products that featured shorter grains when
such as bibimbap, onigiri, and gimbap. our ratings solely on the results of the rice cooker cooked, since they had a distinct rounder shape that
For this tasting, we looked specifically for rice tasting. We therefore strongly recommend that you set them apart from long-grain rice. Our favorite rice
labeled as sushi, Calrose, or Japanese-style (these ignore the package instructions when cooking sushi had the shortest grains in the lineup, with a 1.6:1
terms are often used interchangeably). We found rice and instead use either a rice cooker or the recipe length-to-width ratio.
eight nationally available products, ranging in we developed for cooking this type of rice on the Ya-Jane Wang, professor of carbohydrate chem-
price from about $0.05 per ounce to about $0.25 stovetop (our recipe for Sushi Rice is available for free istry at the University of Arkansas, told us that
per ounce. We cooked the rice two ways—in rice for four months at CooksIllustrated.com/dec19). the differences in grain length and shape can be
cookers using a standardized rice-to-water ratio and
on the stovetop according to their package instruc-
tions—and sampled them all plain. Are Arborio Rice and Sushi Rice Interchangeable?
Arborio rice and sushi rice are similar in
No Bad Rice, Just Bad Instructions shape and size and both have a relatively
Ultimately, we liked all the rices when we cooked high amount of the starch component
them in the rice cookers. They were perfectly chewy amylopectin, but Arborio rice isn’t a
and tender, with a pleasant hint of stickiness. That great choice for Asian dishes because of
said, some products fared poorly when cooked on a defect called “chalk.” During matura-
the stovetop according to their package instruc- tion, the starch structures at the Arborio
tions. Some packages called for soaking the rice grain’s core deform, making for a firm,
before cooking (a traditional method for preparing toothy center when cooked. While
Japanese sushi rice), but we generally preferred this trait is great for risotto—in fact,
the slightly firmer texture of unsoaked rice. Other it gives the dish its signature al dente
packages called for too much water in proportion texture—it’s less than ideal for sushi or SUSHI RICE ARBORIO RICE
Typically either short- or The core of this creamy
to the amount of uncooked rice, so the cooked for a rice that accompanies Asian dishes.
medium-grain rice, it’s both short-grain rice stays firm
rice emerged from the pot wet and bland. Since Conversely, we’ve tried making risotto sticky and chewy. when cooked.
we wanted to truly home in on the quality of the with sushi rice. Tasters reported that the
rice and not the cooking instructions, we decided resulting risotto was creamy, but “it wasn’t risotto” because the grains lacked the quintessential al dente bite of
not to factor the results from the stovetop rice Arborio rice. The bottom line? Arborio rice and sushi rice are not interchangeable in recipes.
tasting into our final rankings. Instead, we based

cook’s illustrated
26
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
„Wat nu gedaan?

„Een bitje gewacht! Maar ’t en beterde niet met Mijnheer Pastor, en de

menschen wierden ongeduldig!

„De pastor kreeg een gedacht. Koster! riep hij, ’k en kan [75]ik volstrekt in
de kerke niet gaan, ge zult gij moeten de kruiskes geven.

„De koster, die zijnen pastor gewend was, verstond dat nog al wel.

„Zegt de pastor toen:

„Ge weet wat ge moet zeggen, binst dat ge de kruiskes geeft: Memento,
homo! quia pulvis es et in pulverum reverteris (Herinner, mensch! dat gij
stof zijt en in stof zult wederkeeren).

„Wat belieft er u? zei de koster.

„De pastor herhaalde ’t latijn, maar de koster en verstond het nog niet.

„Na drie of vier keeren wierd de pastor ongeduldig:

„Ge zijt ezel geboren, schreeuwde de pastor, en ge zult ezel sterven!

„Ja, Mijnheer Pastor, zei de koster, en hij trok de kerke binnen, peinzende
in zijn eigen dat ze toch aardige dingen zeggen aan de menschen in ’t
latijn.

„En hij begon maar kruiskes te geven en te herhalen dat hij schuimde:

„Ge zijt ezel geboren, en ge zult ezel sterven!

„De menschen keken wat aardig en dat wierd beklapt en besproken als zij
buiten de kerke kwamen.

„En de historie en bleef in de prochie niet; ze wierd wijd en breed

verspreid in ’t omliggende en verder, en zoo kwam het dat de lieden van
Cuerne den name van ezels kregen.

„Onverdiend!”
Hier voren (op bladzijde 70) heb ik reeds met een enkel woord
vermeld de verzen van eenen Vlaming uit den ouden tijd, waarin al
de spotnamen van Vlaamsche steden en dorpen zijn opgenoemd.
Op dat hoogst merkwaardige stuk wil ik hier nader terug komen.

In het midden der zestiende eeuw leefde te Brugge een procureur,

namens Eduwaert de Dene, Lymans zone; die „Factor” was van de
rederijkerskamer „De drie Sanctinnen” aldaar. Deze man bracht de
Vlaamsche spotnamen in rijm te zamen, en smeedde daar lange
verzen van, die hij den naam gaf van Den langhen Adieu (het lange
Vaarwel). Eduwaert de Dene stelt [76]het voor alsof hij allen
Vlamingen, de inwoners van allerlei Vlaamsche steden en dorpen,
die hij allen afzonderlijk bij hunne spotnamen noemt, vaarwel zegt,
eer hij sterven gaat. Immers zóó moet men den telkens herhaalden
slotregel der verzen verstaan: „Adieu, eer ick reyse naer Adams
moer.” Adam, de eerste mensch, was uit de aarde voortgekomen;
„Ende de H E E R E Godt hadde den mensche geformeert uyt het
stof der aerden”, zoo lezen we in den Bijbel. Dus, in
overdrachtelijken zin genomen, was de aarde de moeder van Adam.
Zoo iemand gestorven is, wordt zijn doode lichaam in de aarde
begraven. Men kan hiervan zeggen: hij reist naar (of in) de aarde;
met andere woorden: hij reist maar de moeder van Adam, naar
„Adams moer.”

De bedoelde verzen nu luiden als volgt:

Den langhen Adieu

Niet oudgestich
In tjaer ghemaect nieu
1500 ende tzestich.
Adieu, P o o r t e r s van Brugge, adieu H e e r e n van
Ghendt,
Adieu, K i n d r e n van Ipre, wijdt verre bekent,
 Adieu, D a r y n c b a r n e r s van den Vryen mede,
Adieu, S c h o t t e r s van Douay, ende daer omtrent,
Adieu, S p e e r e b r e k e r s der Rysselsche stede,
N o t e c r a e c k e r s van Orchies, naer doude zede,
L e d i c h g h a n g h e r s van Oudenaerde ghepresen.
Adieu insghelijcx, oock zoo ick dandere dede,
P a s t e y e t e r s van Curtrijcke mits desen;
Adieu, C u p e r s van Damme: adieu, moet wesen,
W i t v o e t e n van Aelst, B e e n h a u w e r s van Male,
H u d e v e t t e r s van Gheerdsberghe hooghe geresen,
V o o r v e c h t e r s van Cassele int speciale,
V a c h t p l u c k e r s van Poperynghe tprincipale:
S l a e p e r s van Vuerne, hebt oock huwen toer.
R a e p e t e r s van Waes, elck end int generale,
Adieu, eer ick reyse naer Adams moer.

Adieu, van Dermonde M a c k e l e t e r s daer,

P e l s n a e y e r s van Nieneven openbaar,
D r y n c k e r s van Winnoxberghe, Z o u t z i e d e r s van
Biervliedt,
R o c h e t e r s van Muenickeree der naer.
Adieu, M o s t a e r t e t e r s die men t’ Oosthende ziet,
B u e t e r e t e r s van Dixmude en vergheet ick niet;
Adieu, metten C o n ij n e t e r s van Dunkercke goet; [77]
Adieu, D r a p e n i e r s van Comene, mijn jonste biedt;
Adieu, oock an de V u l d e r s van Caprijcke vroedt,
En den S c h i p g a e r n e m a e c k e r s van Oudenburgh, tmoet
Oock adieu gheseyt sijn, ken cans my bedwynghen,
C a b e l j a u e t e r s van Nieupoort, zijt oock ghegroet!
S a e y w e v e r s van Hondscote, Ghistelsche
Hovelynghen,
D r o o g h a e r t s van Werveke int ommerynghen,
C a e r d e m a e c k e r s van Deynse op heurlieder vloer;
 Ghy, S a u d e n i e r s van Grevelynghe, laet hu niet
besprynghen
Adieu, eer ick reyse naar Adams moer.

Adieu oock, G r o o t s p r e k e r s van Thorout, ghy

L u e g h e n a e r s van Ardenburch, den W i l t j a g h e r s by
Van Maldeghem, C a n d e e l e t e r s van Meenen voort,
K e t e l b o e t e r s van Middelburch; adieu van my
C r u d e n i e r s van Oostburch; insghelijcx adieu (hoort!)
L ij n w a d i e r s van Thielt, twelck menich oorboort;
Oock mede R o o t b i e r d r y n c k e r s van Haerlebeke:
Ghy P e p e r l o o c k e t e r s van Eecloo verstoort;
K e e r m e s h o u d e r s van Ruusselare meniche weke,
C a p p o e n e t e r s van Meessene, waert nood ’tbleke
Met menich smetsere ende goet gheselle:
An de W y n z u p e r s van Hulst ick adieu spreke,
S n o u c k e t e r s van Acxele, C a e s e m a e c k e r s van
Belle,
De Te g h e l b a c k e r s van Stekene oock mede telle;
R o o m e t e r s van Moerbeke, ghy sonder poer,
Ende W a e r m o e s e t e r s van Coolkercke snelle,
Adieu, eer ick reyse naer Adams moer.

Adieu, H o p p e w i n d e r s van Okeghem sterck,

Adieu, O v e r m o e d i g h e van Ronsse int werck,
P a p e t e r s van Denterghem, daer in onverzaet,
G a n s s e d r ij v e r s van Laerne, scherp int bemerck;
Te Zele daer vyndt men de V l a s b o o t e r s , jaet;
Adieu, S t i e r m a n s van Wendune, elck met zijn maet.
Ende ghy, M u s s e l e t e r s van Bouchoute reyn,
V i s s c h e r s van Blanckeberghe oock adieu ontfaet;
Adieu, P u t o o r e t e r s van Waestene int pleyn,
Adieu, D i e n a e r s van Sint Anna ter Mude certeyn,
 V e r z e y l d e r s van Heyst ten Zeeusschen gronde.
C o k e r m a e c k e r s van Ruurle, van V l a e t e r s tgreyn;
Die van Sint Jans Steene oock adieu tallen stonde,
C o m p o o s t e t e r s van Loo, T h o o l n a e r s van
Reppelmonde,
Adieu, Eillynghen tsaemen met den Ackerboer,
Adieu, dus namelicke Vlaandren int ronde,
Adieu, eer ick reyse naer Adams moer. [78]
Adieu, voorts noch, ende wederom oorlof, adieu,
Al dat oud was, en zichtens 14 gheworden nieu!

Ook al deze oude Vlaamsche spotnamen vertoonen weêr ten

duidelijksten de bijzondere kenmerken van zulke Nederlandsche
namen in ’t algemeen. Ook dezen zijn grootendeels meer bijnamen
in schertsenden zin, dan smaad- of hoonnamen en scheldnamen
van krenkenden aard. Zoo treffen we hier weêr de namen aan die
ontleend zijn aan allerlei nering en bedrijf in ’t bijzonder eigen aan
deze of gene plaats; b.v. H u d e v e t t e r s van Geeraartsberge en
de P e l s n a a i e r s van Ninove, de S a e y w e v e r s van
Hondschoten en de C r u d e n i e r s van Oostburg, de
K a a s m a k e r s van Belle en de S t u u r l i e d e n van Wenduine.
Verder ook de namen ontleend aan de eene of andere spijze of
lekkernij, die hier of daar bijzonder gaarne of bijzonder menigvuldig
door de lieden werd gegeten; b.v. de P a s t e i - e t e r s van Kortrijk
en de R a a p - e t e r s van Waas, de R o g - e t e r s van
Munnikereede en de K o n ij n - e t e r s van Duinkerke, de
K a b e l j a u w - e t e r s van Nieuwpoort en de S n o e k - e t e r s van
Aksel. Als rechtstreeksche spotnamen merken we op de
L e d i g g a n g e r s van Oudenaarden, de W i t v o e t e n van Aalst,
de V o o r v e c h t e r s van Kassel en de S l a p e r s van Veurne; de
G r o o t s p r e k e r s van Thorhout en de K e r m i s h o u d e r s van
Rousselare. Onder deze laatste soort van namen zijn er zeker velen,
die aan het een of ander geschiedkundig voorval hunnen oorsprong
te danken hebben.

Toen deze verzen berijmd werden was Vlaanderen nog in zijn

geheel, nog één en onverdeeld. Sedert is de westelijkste gouw van
Vlaanderen bij Frankrijk gevoegd, en de noordelijkste bij Noord-
Nederland. Maar Eduwaert de Dene noemt, zeer te recht zoo wel
de spotnamen op van de inwoners van Biervliet, Aardenburg,
Oostburg, Hulst, Aksel, Sint-Anna-ter-Muiden en Sint-Jans-Steen
(allen thans tot Noord-Nederland behoorende—Zeeuwsch
Vlaanderen), als die van Douay, Rijssel, Orchies, Kassei, Sint-
Winoks-Bergen, Duinkerke, Hondschoten, Grevelingen, Belle,
tegenwoordig deel uitmakende van Frankrijk—Fransch-Vlaanderen.
Ja, in één versregel vinden we de S n o e k e t e r s van [79]Aksel
vermeld naast de K a a s m a k e r s van Belle; die van Aksel zoo wel
als die van Belle zijn oorspronkelijk goede Vlamingen, maar thans,
en reeds sedert twee of drie eeuwen als Noord-Nederlanders en als
Franschen geheel van elkanderen vervreemd.

Sommigen van deze oude namen leven nog heden in den mond des
volks. De H e e r e n van Gent, de K i n d e r e n van Yperen, de
P a s t e i - e t e r s van Kortrijk, de M a k e l - e t e r s van
Dendermonde, de W i t v o e t e n van Aalst, en anderen zijn nog
heden ten dage zoo goed bekend als tijdens Eduwaert den Dene.
Daarentegen zijn de rijke en machtige P o o r t e r s van Brugge uit
de zestiende eeuw in onze negentiende eeuw tot Z o t t e n
vernederd, zijn de oude L e d i g g a n g e r s van Oudenaarde thans
B o o n e n k n o o p e r s , de H u i d e v e t t e r s van Geeraartsbergen
thans B e r g k r u i p e r s , de K a n d e e l e t e r s van Meenen thans
Ta a r t e b a k k e r s , de R o o m e t e r s van Moerbeke thans
S m e e r k o e k e t e r s (de hedendaagsche lieden van Meenen en
van Moerbeke zijn toch liefhebbers van lekkernij gebleven, zoo als
hunne oud-eeuwsche voorvaders reeds waren); de
V a c h t p l u k k e r s van Poperinge heeten thans K e i k o p p e n , de
O v e r m o e d i g e n van Ronse zijn tot Z o t t e n ,
V l i e g e n v a n g e r s en S l e k k e n t r e k k e r s geworden, en de
zestiende-eeuwsche B u e t e r - e t e r s van Diksmude thans, min
hoffelijk, tot B o t e r - k o p p e n .

Uit een taalkundig oogpunt zijn eenigen van deze namen zeer
merkwaardig; b.v. de D a r y n c b a r n e r s van ’t Land van den Vrijen
van Brugge (eene gouw in ’t Noorden van West-Vlaanderen), die in ’t
hedendaagsche Hollandsche Nederduitsch T u r f b r a n d e r s
zouden moeten genoemd worden. Darync, Darink, Daring,
hedendaags in West-Vlaanderen als dèring of derring uitgesproken,
is de oorspronkelijke vorm van ons hedendaagsch Noord-
Nederlandsche woord derrie.—Verder de H u d e v e t t e r s
(Lederbereiders) van Geeraartsbergen, de D r o o g h a e r t s
(Droogscheerders) van Werveke, de T h o o l n a e r s (Tollenaars of,
zoo als de verbasterde Hollanders zeggen, „Douanen”) van
Rupelmonde, enz.

Merkwaardig is het ook dat Eduwaert de Dene in zijne verzen

almede de „R o c h - e t e r s van Muenickeree” noemt. Muenickeree,
[80]Munnikeree (Monnikereede in hedendaagschen taalvorm) was in
de middeleeuwen een bloeiend stedeke aan het Zwin, tusschen
Sluis, Damme en Brugge in Vlaanderland. In de zestiende eeuw
verviel het plaatsje, in vervolg van tijd verviel het al meer en meer,
eindelijk ook geheel en al, en in deze negentiende eeuw verdween
het geheel van den aardbodem, om ter nauwer nood de heugenis
van zijn bestaan achter te laten. Door het verloopen, het verslijken
en verzanden, en door het inpolderen van den zeearm het Zwin is
zelfs de plaats waar Munnikereede lag niet meer nauwkeurig aan te
wijzen. Maar al is het stadje te niet gegaan, er zijn toch nog
Munnikereeders over gebleven, lieden wier voorouders te
Munnikereede woonden, lieden die dus van daar oorspronkelijk
herkomstig zijn. Een man uit Munnikereede (misschien ook wel een
geheel gezin) heeft oudtijds, om de eene of andere reden, zijne
woonplaats verlaten, en zich in Holland gevestigd, evenals in de
zestiende eeuw zoo vele andere Vlamingen met hem. Die man
noemde zich in zijne nieuwe woonplaats, ter onderscheiding van
anderen, met den als voor de hand liggenden toenaam „Van
Muenickeree” of „Van Munnikeree” of „Van Munnikreede” (de spelling
van den naam doet er niet toe). En eene maagschap van dien naam,
te weten: „v a n M u n n e k r e d e ”, ’s mans nakomelingschap,
bestaat nog heden, en komt of kwam nog in de laatste helft dezer
eeuw voor te Delft, Rotterdam, Haarlem, Heemskerk. De
geslachtsnaam heeft dus in dit geval den plaatsnaam, de oud-
ingezetene van Munnikereede heeft, in zijne nakomelingen, het
stedeke zelf overleefd. En zelfs de spotnaam waarmede de oude
Munnikereeders in de middeleeuwen door andere Vlamingen
werden genoemd, is ons nog overgeleverd geworden en bewaard
gebleven.

Daar zijn nog oudere Vlaamsche spotnamen bekend, dan dezen van
1560. In de Anzeiger für Kunde der Teutschen Vorzeit, jaargang
1835, bladzijde 299 vindt men een lijstje van die namen
medegedeeld, ’t welk volgens de meening van sommige geleerden
tusschen de jaren 1347 en 1414 moet zijn opgesteld. Deze
middeleeuwsche spotnamen zijn in hoofdzaak de zelfden als die
men in „den langhen Adieu” vindt opgesomd. Sommigen echter
wijken in meerdere of mindere mate af van de namen in dat [81]rijm
voorkomende. Zoo heeten in dit middeleeuwsche lijstje de
ingezetenen van Poperingen V a c h t p l o t e r s , terwijl Eduwaert
de Dene ze V a c h t p l u c k e r s noemt; die van Meenen
P e l s m a k e r s , tegenover de C a n d e e l e t e r s van de Dene; die
van Werveke V e r w a t e n l i e d e n , tegenover de
D r o o g h a e r t s van de Dene; die van Deinse G a r e n c o e p e r s
tegenover de C a e r d e m a e c k e r s van de Dene. En er worden in
het oude lijstje ook eenigen genoemd, die de Dene niet heeft; bij
voorbeeld de W a f e l e t e r s van Bethune, de U t r e c h t s c h e
V l a m i n g e n van de Vier-Ambachten, de P l a t t e G e s e l l e n
van Sleedingen (hedendaags Sleidinge), de D a n s e r s van
Everghem, de S c i p h e e r e n van der Sluus, de T u u s c h e r s van
Theemsche (hedendaags Temseke), en anderen.

Ook in dit lijstje vinden de taalgeleerde en de geschiedkundige veel

van hunne gading, ter verklaring; zoo als de T u u s c h e r s (Ruilers,
in ’t hedendaagsche Friesch nog túskers, tyskers) van Temseke en
de S c i p h e e r e n van der Sluus. Deze laatste naam dagteekent uit
den middeleeuwschen tijd, toen het hedendaagsche stille en
vervallene stedeke Sluis, thans tot het Zeeuwsche deel van
Vlaanderen, dus tot Noord-Nederland behoorende, eene bloeiende
Vlaamsche handelsstad was, de mededingster van het naburige
Brugge. Vele rijke reeders (S c i p h e e r e n ) woonden toen daar.

En dan de U t r e c h t s e V l a m i n g e n van de Vier-Ambachten, die

nog herinneren aan den overouden tijd toen de noordelijkste gouw
van Vlaanderland, in de middeleeuwen de Vier-Ambachten
genoemd, en thans Zeeuwsch-Vlaanderen, soms ook nog Staatsch-
Vlaanderen geheeten, in het kerkelijke niet tot een Vlaamsch bisdom
(Gent of Brugge) behoorden, maar tot het aartsbisdom van Utrecht.
In deze gouw toch was de bevolking in de vroege middeleeuwen
hoofdzakelijk van Frieschen bloede, en de Friezen bewesten
Lauwers en bewesten Flie behoorden, sedert ze Christenen waren,
tot dat aartsbisdom. Van daar dat de Vlamingen van Hulst en Aksel,
van Biervliet en Aardenburg hier U t r e c h t s c h e V l a m i n g e n
worden geheeten. Men zie over deze zaak mijn werk Oud
Nederland, de aanteekeningen op bladzijden 109 en 110.
De ingezetenen van Duinkerke worden in den Langhen Adieu [82]en
eveneens in dit oude lijstje C o n y n e t e r s genoemd, en deze naam
is voor lieden die midden in het duin, midden in die meest geliefde
verblijfplaats der konijnen wonen, en die aan die ligging in de duinen
zelfs den naam hunner stad ontleend hebben, zeker zeer
eigenaardig en gepast. Ik zelf echter, eenige jaren geleden een en
ander maal te Duinkerke vertoevende, en daar den luiden vragende
naar hunnen spotnaam, en naar die van andere Fransch-Vlamingen,
kreeg telkens ten antwoord: K e u n e t e r s van Duunkerke. 15 Hieruit
blijkt dat keun de Vlaamsche benaming is van konijn; en in der daad
vinden we ook in De Bo’s Westvlaamsch Idioticon het woord keun
voor konijn aangegeven. De ingezetenen van het dorp Heist op Zee,
bij Brugge, en dat ook midden in het duin aan zee gelegen is (als
Zandvoort), dragen heden ten dage almede den spotnaam van
K e u n s (Konijnen). Door onze taalgeleerden wordt ons
hedendaagsch algemeen Nederlandsch woord konijn voorgesteld
als afgeleid of herkomstig van het Latijnsche woord cuniculus. Het is
toch opmerkelijk, ja, het komt mij zonderling voor, zelfs ongelooflijk,
dat zulk een algemeen bekend inlandsch dier als het konijn is, dat bij
duizendtallen in onze zeeduinen, en ook binnen ’s lands op
heidevelden en in woeste, zandige streken leeft, niet eenen
oorspronkelijk Nederlandschen, oorspronkelijk Dietschen, niet eenen
echt Germaanschen naam zoude hebben. Is misschien dit
Westvlaamsche keun de eigenlijke, de oorspronkelijk Dietsche naam
van het konijn? En moet men ons hedendaagsch woord konijn dan
als een oude verkleinvorm van keun (koon, kone) beschouwen?
Heeft ons woord konijn dan misschien niets met het Latijnsche
woord cuniculus te maken? En hebben dan, juist andersom, de
Romeinen hun woord cuniculus misschien afgeleid van ons woord
keun? Allemaal vragen, die ik niet beantwoorden kan, maar die den
taalvorscher zeker belangstelling zullen inboezemen. [83]
De ingezetenen van sommige gewesten, landstreken en eilanden in
hun geheel, ja sommige volken hebben ook wel hunne spotnamen.
Ook hierop wil ik nog kortelijk wijzen. Zoo heeten de Friezen
S t ij f k o p p e n , Noord-Bevelanders bij de andere Zeeuwen
P e e v r e t e r s , en de Zuid-Bevelanders P a d d e l a n d e r s .
(Peeën, dat is Zeeuwsch voor wortelen—de gewone als spijs
gebruikte wortelen van Daucus carota, en beetwortelen). De
opgezetenen van ’t eiland Walcheren in ’t bijzonder, op welk eiland,
naar men zegt, geen kikvorschen en geen padden voorkomen,
noemen dus het eiland Zuid-Beveland, waar deze amphibiën wel
gevonden worden, smadelijk ’t P a d d e l a n d . Die van Texel heeten
K w a l l e n , en die van Wieringen S k e p e n (Schapen), ’t is op bl.
62 en 63 reeds vermeld.

De Engelschman J o h n B u l l , de Franschman J e a n
P o t a g e e n zijn wijf M a r i a n n e , J a n t j e - K a a s de Hollander
(door Vlamingen en Brabanders zoo genoemd) en de Duitsche
M i c h e l of H a n s - M i c h e l zijn overbekend. Overbekend is ook in
onze dagen de spotnaam R o o i n e k en R o o i b a a i t j i e , dien
onze Zuid-Afrikaansche stamgenooten den Engelschman geven. De
Hollanders in ’t bijzonder hebben ook nog eenen bijzonderen
spotnaam voor den Duitscher, dien ze M o f noemen. Naar den
oorsprong van dezen naam is door velen vruchteloos gezocht.
Opmerkelijk is het dat de Duitschers, die langs onze oostelijke
grenzen wonen, dien spotnaam M o f (zij zeggen M u f ) wederkeerig
op de Nederlanders toepassen, en ons H o l l a n d e r - M u f
noemen; zie Ten Doornkaat Koolman, Wörterbuch der
Ostfriesischen Sprache, waar almede eene verklaring van dit woord
Muf of Mof te vinden is. De Nederlanders noemen geheel
Duitschland wel M o f f r i k a , maar de Duitschers zelven geven dien
naam M u f f r i k a in ’t bijzonder aan eene kleine gouw, langs onze
grenzen zich uitstrekkende, aan het zoogenoemde Nedersticht van
Munster, tusschen Oost-Friesland en Bentheim gelegen, en de
stadjes Meppen en Lingen met omstreken omvattende.

De Friezen hebben nog eenen bijzonderen spotnaam voor de

Duitschers in ’t algemeen; zij noemen dezen P o e p e n . Dit woord
poep is een bijzonder, een raadselachtig woord. Dat het niet het
woord poep is, in de gewone algemeen Nederlandsche volks- vooral
kinderspreektaal van bekende beteekenis, blijkt hieruit dat de
Friezen beide woorden nauwkeurig in uitspraak onderscheiden.
[84]Zij, met hun fijn en nauwkeurig onderscheidend taalgehoor,
spreken in den spotnaam P o e p dit woord uit met den zeer duidelijk
hoorbaren t w e e klank oe; terwijl ze, waar dit woord de andere
beteekenis heeft, slechts eenen enkelvoudigen klank laten hooren,
de u der Duitschers, de ou der Franschen. Uit nauwkeurige, en
steeds strikt volgehoudene onderscheid in uitspraak tusschen den
enkelvoudigen en den twee-klank oe, dat zoowel den Friezen als
den West- en Zee-Vlamingen thans nog bijzonder eigen is, maar
oudtijds algemeen Dietsch moet geweest zijn, verbiedt om aan te
nemen dat dit woord poep in beide beteekenissen van een en den
zelfden oorsprong zoude zijn. Maar wat het woord poep als
spotnaam dan wel zijn mag, van oorsprongswegen, het is mij niet
gelukt dit uit te vorschen.

De Friezen geven den naam P o e p wel aan de Duitschers in het

algemeen, maar in ’t bijzonder aan den Westfaalschen grasmaaier
en aan den Westfaalschen koopman in kleedingstoffen en
kleedingstukken, die met een groot pak van zijn koopwaar op den
rug, het Friesche platteland afreist, en die, ter onderscheiding van
zijnen landsman den grasmaaier, door de Friezen
F y n d o e k s p o e p genoemd wordt.

Overdrachtelijk noemt men in de Friesche gewesten (immers

Groningerland doet hierin mede, volgens Molema’s Woordenboek
der Groningsche volkstaal) een paard of eene koe van Duitsch,
gewoonlijk Oldenburgsch, zoogenoemd Bovenlandsch ras, ook
p o e p ; en zelfs eene bijzondere soort van aardappelen, ook van
Duitsche herkomst, en die anders wel „Munsterlanders” heeten,
noemt de Friesche boer p o e p e n . Ja, onze Friesche zeeman geeft
zelfs aan een schip (kof of tjalk), dat in Oost-Friesche en Weser-
Friesche havens thuis behoort, en dit door geringe afwijkingen in
bouw en tuig bemerkbaar doet zijn, den naam van p o e p .

Ook in noordelijk Noord-Holland, almede oorspronkelijk eene

Friesche gouw, is de spotnaam P o e p , G r a s p o e p , G r o e n e
P o e p voor den Duitschen Grasmaaier in gebruik, volgens Dr. G. J.
Boekenoogen’s werk De Zaansche Volkstaal, en volgens J.
Bouman’s werk De Volkstaal in Noord-Holland.

De echte Friezen in ’t land tusschen Flie en Lauwers beperken

hunnen spotnaam P o e p niet enkel tot de Duitschers. Ook de
Groningerlanders en de Drenten noemen ze P o e p e n , en [85]zelfs
de ingezetenen van de Friesche dorpen Kollum en Burum (in
uitspraak Boerum), die, ofschoon nog bewesten Lauwers wonende,
toch niet de zuivere Friesche taal spreken, maar eenen gemengden
tongval, een overgang van het Stad-Friesch tot het
Groningerlandsch—zelfs dezen moeten zich den spotnaam
P o e p e n laten welgevallen, alsof ze, door hunnen afwijkenden
tongval, reeds halve Groningerlanders, en alsof de
Groningerlanders, met hun Friso-Sassisch bloed en met hunne
Friso-Sassische gouwspraak reeds halve Duitschers waren.

Opmerkelijk is het, dat men dit woord P o e p als spotnaam ook hier
en daar elders in de Nederlanden terug vindt. De ingezetenen van
Deventer toch dragen bij de andere Overijsselaars en bij de
Gelderschen in hunne nabuurschap ook dezen naam. En ook de
Zeeuwen noemen hunne Vlaamsche en Brabantsche naburen
P o e p e n . Zoo hoorde ik in 1869 door een paar burgers van Goes
zeggen, van een gezelschap boeren en boerinnen uit de polders van
Zandvliet bij Antwerpen, die door ’t stadje Goes ronddwaalden: „’t
zijn maar P o e p e n ,” eenigszins minachtender wijze, juist zoo als
de Friezen spreken van de Duitschers. Volgens van Dale (zelf een
Zeeuwsche Vlaming), Nieuw Woordenboek der Nederlandsche taal,
is p o e p een scheldnaam dien de bewoners van Zuid-Beveland aan
de bewoners van Zeeuwsch-Vlaanderen geven. En volgens De Bo’s
Westvlaamsch Idioticon noemt men in West-Vlaanderen „iemand die
weinig verstand of weinig moed heeft,” een „dwazerik” dus, of een
„lafaard”, een „p o e p g a a i .”

De oorsprong en de verspreiding van dezen raadselachtigen

spotnaam P o e p uit te vorschen, zal zeker wel de moeite loonen.

Als eene bijzondere uiting van volkseigenaard en van speelsch

volksvernuft, dienen ten slotte nog vermeld te worden eenige
rijmkes, die van sommige gouwen en eilanden, van sommige steden
en dorpen, ook van groepen van nabij elkanderen gelegene
plaatsen, bij het volk bekend zijn, en die als ter kenschetsing dienen
van sommige bijzonderheden, aan die gouwen en plaatsen eigen.
Deze rijmkes zijn uit de zelfde bron gevloeid, waaruit ook de
spotnamen ontstaan zijn; zij komen er in aard en strekking,
veelvuldig ook in oorsprong en in eigenaardig wezen mede overeen,
ja, zijn eigenlijk slechts als eene uitbreiding [86]daarvan te
beschouwen. Ik wil slechts enkele van die rijmkes hier mededeelen,
om de aandacht daarop te vestigen van navorschers, van allen die
belang stellen in volkseigene zaken, en die zulke zaken nog in tijds
behouden willen, eer de nieuwe tijd ze uit het geheugen der
menschen zal hebben doen verdwijnen.
Over al de Nederlanden zijn deze rijmkes verspreid, en, even als de
spotnamen, ook over Oost-Friesland en andere nabij gelegene
gouwen van naburige landen, waar de bevolking met die van onze
eigene gewesten zoo menig punt van overeenkomst heeft, of
daarmede oorspronkelijk eenzelvig is. Een enkel van die
Oostfriesche rijmkes, de stad Aurik betreffende, is reeds op bladzijde
58 hiervoren medegedeeld. Anderen uit de Friesche gewesten
beoosten Eems kan men vinden in Kern en Willms, Ostfriesland
wie es denkt und spricht (Norden, 1869). Een paar rijmkes van ’t
Ameland vindt men op bladzijden 27 en 28 hiervoren vermeld. Een
paar andere uit Friesland zijn nog:

Oostergoo het land,

Westergoo het geld.
De Wouden het verstand,
De Steden het geweld.

Hier wordt op geestige wijze het kenmerkende van de drie gouwen,

Oostergoo, Westergoo en de Zevenwouden, waarin Friesland
tusschen Flie en Lauwers van ouds her verdeeld is, met de elf
steden, uiteengezet.

Dokkum is een oude stad,

Een oude stad boven maten;
Daar verkoopt men anders niet
Als taai en ook garnaten.

In der daad, de stad Dokkum dagteekent reeds uit zeer ouden tijd;
reeds ten jare 754 verkondigde Sint-Bonifacius daar het Evangelie.
Het Dokkumer taai, eene soort van grof Sint-Nicolaasgebak, is in
geheel Friesland vermaard. En wat de Dokkumer garnaten
(garnalen) aangaat, daar moet men maar niet te luide van spreken,
als er Dokkumers bij zijn (zie bladzijde 21 en vervolgens). [87]
Zeer aardig kenschetsend zijn deze twee rijmkes, van een
Utrechtsch en van een Noordbrabantsch dorp:

Neêr-Langbroek,
Die schrale hoek!
Daar wonen niets dan edellui
En bedellui,
Ridders
En broodbidders;
Daar staan anders niet als kasteelen en nesten,
Sterkenburg is het beste.

Loon-op-Zand,
Licht volk, licht land;
Ze schooien den kost.
En ze stelen den brand. 16

Tamelijk onbeduidend daarentegen is het volgende rijmke van drie

Zeeuwsch-Vlaamsche dorpen Breskens, Schoondijke en de Groede:

De Bressianen
Zijn hanen,
Maar voor Schoondijke
Moeten ze wijken,
En komen die van de Groe,
Dan houden ze beter hun deuren maar toe!

Veelal heerscht in deze rijmkes een schimpende, smalende toon

tegenover andere naburige plaatsen, afgewisseld met lof voor de
eigene woonplaats. Bij voorbeeld uit Drente:

Koevorden is een fraaie stad,

Dalen is een moddergat,
 Wachtum is een eendepoel,
Hesselen is een koningsstoel.

Of uit Overijssel en Gelderland:

Deventer is een koopstad,

Zutfen is een loopstad,
Lochem is nog wat,
Maar Borkeloo is een hondegat.

[88]

Van groote ingenomenheid met zich zelven getuigt het volgende rijm
van sommige Noordhollandsche steden, dat bij de
Monnikendammers in zwang is:

Amsterdam ligt aan het IJ,

Monnikendam daar wonen wij;
Edam is een nest,
Hoorn doet zijn best,
Enkhuizen staat op tonnen.
Medemblik heeft het gewonnen.

Aardig is het rijmke van Kootwijk, een zeer nederig dorpke op de

Veluwe:

Kootwijk is een zoetendal,

En die er is die blijft er al.

Zoetendal, ten Sueten dale—dat klinkt zoo middeleeuwsch liefelijk!

Wie weet hoe oud dit rijm al is!

Ten slotte kan ik nog een zeer bijzonder rijm hier mede deelen, dat
betrekking heeft op de Friesche eilandenreeks die zich uitstrekt
tusschen de Weser en het Marsdiep, en dat door mij is
opgeschreven uit den mond van eenen Frieschen schipperszoon,
die met de tjalk van zijnen vader wel oostwaarts naar Emden,
Bremen en Hamburg, en wel zuidwaarts naar Amsterdam,
Rotterdam, Dordrecht en Antwerpen voer. Het rijm is niet in de
eigenlijke Friesche taal opgesteld, maar in het zoogenoemde Stad-
Friesch of „Stêdsk”, dat is Oud-Dietsch met Friesche woorden en
woordvormen vermengd, en met eenen Frieschen mond
uitgesproken.

Wrangero de skoone,
Spikeroog de krone,
Langeroog is ’n butterfat
En Baltrum is ’n sangat.
En de Norderneyers frete har mar half sat
Juust dat is ’n rooverland;
En Borkum is ’n tooverland;
Rottumeroog is ’n klein land,
Mar Skiermonnikoog is sterk bemand:
De Amelander skalken
Hewwe stolen drie balken,
Avons in ’e maneskijn,
Daarom sal ’t har wapen sijn. [89]
Skilingen het ’n hooge toren,
Flielan het siin naam ferloren,
Tessel is mar ’n seegat,
De Helderse T r a a n b o k k e n segge dat.

Eenige opmerkingen mogen dit rijm nader toelichten.

Wrangero (ook de visscherlieden van Urk, die ter uitoefening van

hun bedrijf op de Noordzee wel tot bij dit eiland komen, spreken
dezen naam nog op deze Oud-Friesche wijze uit)—Wrangero is een
oude en zeer goede, oorspronkelijk Friesche naamsvorm, ouder en
beter dan Wangeroog of Wangerooge, zoo als dit eiland thans in ’t
geijkte Nederlandsch en Hoogduitsch heet. Oudtijds woonde aan
den vasten wal, aan de Noordzeekust waar dit eiland tegenover ligt,
westelijk van den Wesermond, een Friesche volksstam, Wranger-
Friezen genoemd. (Hunne rechtstreeksche nakomelingen wonen
daar nog heden in het thans zoo genoemde Jeverland en
Butjadingerland). Toenmaals noemde men het land dier Wranger-
Friezen Wrangerland, en het eiland daarnevens in de Noordzee:
Wrangero, Wranger-o. De woordvormen o, oe (eu) ei (in ons woord
eiland nog bestaande en in den eilandsnaam Nordernei eveneens)
zijn oorspronkelijk eenzelvig met het hedendaagsche oog, in
Süderoog (Noord-Friesland), Wangeroog, (Weser-Friesland),
Langeroog (Oost-Friesland), Schiermonnikoog (Friesland tusschen
Flie en Lauwers), Valkoog (West-Friesland of Noord-Holland), enz.

Skilingen is de Friesche naamsvorm voor ’t eiland ter Schelling,

beter Schellingerland, dat in het dorp Wester-Schelling in der daad
eenen zeer hoogen toren heeft, de vuurtoren of Brandaris, die het
geheele zeegat van ’t Flie verlicht.

Flieland heeft althans voor de helft zijnen naam verloren. De

westelijke helft van dit eiland, met het aldaar gelegene dorp West-
Flieland is in de 17de eeuw ten deele, maar in de vorige eeuw
volkomen door de zee vernield en weggeslagen. Er is daar nog maar
eene zandplaat van over, die nu de Hors heet. Inderdaad, „Flieland
heeft zijn naam verloren.”

Dit is het einde van mijn opstel over spotnamen, spotrijmen, enz.
Mogen anderen hierin aanleiding vinden dit belangrijke onderwerp
nog eens beter en uitvoeriger te behandelen. [90]
[Inhoud]

BRONNEN EN LITTERATUUR OVER

SPOTNAMEN, ENZ.

Het tijdschrift De Navorscher (Amsterdam, 1851 en vervolgens), in

verschillende jaargangen. Men zie de Algemeene Registers, op
„Namen (Nederlandsche Spot- en Scheldnamen).”

Ons Volksleven. Tijdschrift voor taal-, volks- en oudheidkunde, onder

leiding van Jos. Cornelissen en J. B. Vervliet. Brecht (bij
Braeckmans, 1889 en vervolgens) in verschillende jaargangen.

A. Mertens, Iets over de spotnamen onzer Belgische steden.

Antwerpen, 1847.

Friesland en de Friezen (Plaatselijke schimpnamen). Leeuwarden,

1877.

Dr. E. Laurillard, Vlechtwerk. Amsterdam, 1880. Idem,

Sprokkelhout. Amsterdam, 1887. Idem, Op uw’ stoel door uw land.
Amsterdam, 1891. [91]

1 Vermoedelijk komen soortgelijke spotnamen als de Nederlandsche, wel in alle

landen en bij alle volken voor. Eenigen van die namen uit Duitschland vindt men
vermeld in het Korrespondenzblatt des Vereins für Niederdeutsche
Sprachforschung, VIII, 47; en anderen uit Frankrijk in De Navorscher, XV, 318. En
wat Engeland aan gaat, de spotnaam van de Londenaars, Cockneys, is daar
algemeen bekend. ↑
2 De Dokkumer kleermaker spreekt hier natuurlijk ook de dagelijksche spreektaal
van Dokkum—dat is: gewoon stad-Friesch, met enkele bijzonderheden. Bij
voorbeeld: Luwarden en sil, waar de Leeuwarders Leewarden en sal zeggen. Ook
brengt de Dokkumer tongval meê, dat de lange a eenigermate naar den aai klank
zweemende wordt uitgesproken. Van daar dat andere Friesche stedelingen de