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Expressions of
High Status
A Comparative Synthesis
Jean-Pascal Daloz
Expressions of High Status
Jean-Pascal Daloz
Expressions of
High Status
A Comparative Synthesis
Translated from French by the author
Jean-Pascal Daloz
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (SAGE)
University of Strasbourg, France
© The Editor(s) (if applicable) and The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature
Switzerland AG 2022
1st edition: © Max Milo éditions 2021
This work is subject to copyright. All rights are solely and exclusively licensed by the Publisher, whether
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For Noëlla
Preface to the English Edition
This is the third volume I have devoted to the comparative study of social
distinction at the top of societies.
In The Sociology of Elite Distinction: From Theoretical to Comparative
Perspectives (Palgrave Macmillan, 2010), my aim was to discuss all the
models of interpretation at our disposal. I argued that a serious approach
to the topic required close analysis of the representations and practices
through which high status is signified in any given time and place, rather
than deductively applying ready-made schemes of explanation to dispa-
rate cases. While I did insist on the problematically reductive assump-
tions of most available theoretical frameworks, my nuanced view was that
they all generated useful insights but should be seen at best as tools that
prove more or less relevant from one setting to the next.
That book is now a standard reference. However, beyond this first
(critical) step, I was logically led to fully reconsider the subject in a com-
parative mode. My objective was, above all, to develop foundations
avoiding ethnocentrism and the risks of undue extrapolation.1 In
Rethinking Social Distinction (Palgrave Macmillan, 2013), I thus tried to
show how it is possible to provide middle-range theorisations, without
succumbing either to the lure of grand universal claims or to excessive
relativism. More precisely, revisiting many important themes,2 I identi-
fied divergent patterns of social distinction and formulated hypotheses in
vii
viii Preface to the English Edition
StrasbourgJean-Pascal Daloz
October 2021
Notes
1. Knowing that many grand theories with ubiquitous pretension were typi-
cally derived from the study of a single society, usually that of the analyst:
e.g. Veblen’s ‘Gilded Age’ America, Bourdieu’s France of the 1960–1970s,
and so forth.
2. From conspicuousness and understatement to reference models, symbolic
consistency, strategic or unconscious grounds of distinction, among others.
3. Under the title: Expressions de supériorité. Petite encyclopédie des distinctions
élitistes (Max Milo).
Acknowledgements
xi
xii Acknowledgements
good old friends Patrick Bayard, Yann Fauchois, Patrice Meynier and
Katri Vallaste who either suggested ideas and illustrations, provided doc-
umentation, or solved tricky grammatical difficulties.
As for this English version, I wish notably to acknowledge the support
of my dear friends and colleagues, Fred Turner and John Higley, as well
that of my former post-doctoral assistant Neil Martin (now a policy ana-
lyst at OECD). Many thanks to Mahalia Gayle for the aid she provided
with the translation, especially her final proof-reading. Last but certainly
not least, let me express my gratitude to Sharla Plant, Liam Inscoe-Jones,
Connie Li and the staff at Springer for their great professionalism, and to
the two anonymous reviewers who recommended that my proposal be
accepted as it stood.
Other books by Jean-Pascal Daloz
Edited volumes:
1 I ntroduction 1
2 A
dornments 17
3 R
esidences 39
4 V
ehicles 57
5 F
ood 73
6 B
urials 93
8 P
hysical Appearance125
xv
xvi Contents
9 D
istinguished Manners141
12 F
launting Connections197
13 S
ervants209
14 A
rtists227
15 A
nimals241
17 P
recedence277
18 G
ift Exchange293
19 C
onclusion311
B
ibliography315
N
ame Index335
S
ubject Index345
1
Introduction
Comparative Explorations
When research is not prejudiced by dogmatic assumptions and when the
empirical findings of many disciplines are fully taken into account, a real
diversity of scenarios can indeed be perceived. In order to give the reader
Interpretations
Most of the classical thinkers of social distinction managed to construct
their models after much effort of abstraction. The more abstract the ana-
lytical schemes, the more applicable they seem to be to all kinds of cases.
On the other hand, when one takes a multitude of empirical studies (with
6 J.-P. Daloz
that multiple cultural disparities will be taken into account. These chap-
ters are divided into four parts: a first one devoted to external signs; a
second one to embodied signs of distinction; a third one to vicarious
display; and a final one to status-related interactions. Each will be pre-
ceded by an introduction on, respectively, the properties of prestige
goods, the internalisation of superiority, the use of the entourage, and the
study of direct confrontations. While it is clarifying to isolate symbolic
facets in this way, they obviously often intersect.
Let me add that despite the unprecedented scale and scope of this
attempt at synthesis, there is no aspiration for exhaustiveness here. The
intention is above all to present significant aspects of how distinction
operates in various contexts.
Notes
1. One thinks of the order ‘Look at me when I am talking to you!’.
2. T. Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class, New York, Dover Publications,
1994 [1899].
3. To take an illustration from a recent book, when an archaeologist examin-
ing small, enamelled iron-age pins concludes that, due to their reduced
size, they could not have held clothes but that their shiny side was likely
to attract attention, it enriches my comparisons around the utilitarian/
symbolic dimensions of external signs of distinction. S. Adams, ‘Personal
Object and Personal Identity in the Iron Age: The Case of the Earliest
Brooches’, in T. F. Martin & R. Weetch (eds), Dress and Society:
Contributions from Archaeology, Oxford: Oxbow Books, 2017.
4. Explaining, for example, how marks of dignity among Polynesians are
incomprehensible if the essential categories of mana and taboo are not
included.
5. In this respect, Bourdieu’s concept of habitus, reducing perceptions and
attitudes to class positions alone, is symptomatic. Distinction: A Social
Critique of the Judgement of Taste, London: Routledge, 1984 [original ver-
sion in French 1979]. This makes sociology the key discipline, but at the
price of erasing intercultural differences.
6. From articles on clothing as a status indicator in Turgenev to the symbol-
ism of cars in Steinbeck, for example. I will come back to this.
8 J.-P. Daloz
Herbert Spencer, that both exhibition and concealment can express gran-
deur. Keeping some possessions out of sight is likely to confer on them a
kind of aura.10 The imagined presence of a house completely hidden by
high walls may prove as intimidating as the villa of the magnate who had
all the surrounding trees cut down in order to show if off. I would also
point out that while certain categories of goods are a priori more visible
than others, it is sometimes necessary to reason within them. If we take
vehicles, for instance, there is quite a contrast between the convertible
which allows you to see the driver as well as whoever accompanies him,
and the limousine with its tinted windows. In addition, some distinctive
details require close observation in order to be truly appreciated. The
fineness of a fan will only be discernible within a few centimetres.
Let me add that the differentiation between private and public spaces
is far from always clear. Indeed, many intermediary areas escape this type
of classification. For example, private garden squares in some English cit-
ies, to which only the owners of the neighbourhood had the keys, did not
prevent people from spying on what was going on behind the gates.
Likewise, in the past, the bedroom with its stately furnishings could be
the room where important visitors were received (the standards of domes-
tic privacy having evolved considerably over the centuries). This is why
proposing analyses in terms of ‘front’ and ‘back’ stage, as Goffman noto-
riously did, sometimes proves to be rather unsatisfactory. Throughout
this book, we will come across a number of recurring themes related to
the issue of visibility: from that of privileged access (opening one’s collec-
tions only for the most eminent guests) to that of repetition entailing a
sense of implantation (renting, season after season, the same box at the
opera), without neglecting, of course, that of meaning—some visual mes-
sages being difficult to understand for the general public, which does not
prevent them from being impressive.
Among the variables that also caught my attention is the division
between quantitative and qualitative demonstrations. Is it more dazzling
to have an extremely large wardrobe in order to hardly ever wear the same
clothes, or just a few splendid outfits made by very famous fashion design-
ers? It goes without saying that quantity and quality are by no means
incompatible. Some people enjoy cellars amply stocked with bottles of
great vintages, or precious sets of tableware made up of hundreds of
14 External Signs
Notes
1. This literature goes back to the moralising texts of antiquity and contin-
ues to be the subject of essays stigmatising luxury in the name of differ-
ent ideals or, more exceptionally, advocating it. We know that the
eighteenth century marked an important turning point. Authors such as
Mandeville, Voltaire or Hume began to consider luxury with a benevo-
lent eye for economic or civilisational reasons. However, there were prec-
edents as early as the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, in a perspective
of glorification of God (and his servants) or in the line of Aristotelian
theses about magnificence.
2. Thus, for example, with regard to certain shells highly prized for their
colours or their shimmering appearance (which could be both emblems
External Signs 15
Language: English
CHAPTER I.
A MYSTERY SOMEWHERE.