MEXICAN CACTUS

Pattern by ©Armigurumi - 2015

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 Beginner
2
SKILL LEVEL : Intermediate
Advanced

To make this pattern you will need to know how to :

l begin with a magic ring l work in continuous rounds l single crochet
l half double crochet l double crochet l treble crochet l increase
l invisible decrease l switch color l work BLO l work FLO

GAUGE AND FINISHED SIZE :

Gauge is not essential for this project : you can use any size of hook
you want as long as your yarn choice is consistent with it. Just be careful
to work tight stitches so as the stuffing doesn't show through.

As an indication : I used a 3.00 mm hook with «Himalaya Everyday» acrylic

yarn and my cactus ended 20 cm high.

The
bigger
hook size
you’ll
choose,
the bigge
r your
Amigurum
i will
be !

© Armigurumi - 2015
 SUPPLIES :
3
»»3.00 mm crochet hook

»»Yarn :
Green,
Yellow,
Red,
Sand,
Black.

»»6mm safety eyes

»»Tapestry needle

»»Stuffing material (fiberfill)

»»Pins

»»Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS :

R : round
MR : magic ring
st(s) : stitch(es)
slst(s) : slip stitch(es)
sc : single crochet
hdc : half double crochet
dc : double crochet
tr : treble crochet
inc : increase ( = single crochet 2 stitches in same sc)
dec : decrease ( = single crochet 2 stitches in front loops together)
FLO : Front Loops Only
BLO : Back Loops Only
[... , ... , ... ] in same stitch : crochet instructions in same stitch
*...,...* x... : repeat instructions between * * as many times as indicated
FO : fasten off
© Armigurumi - 2015
 MAIN PART :
4
(using green yarn)

R1 : MR 6

Insert stitch marker now using contrasting yarn as a

marker : it will help you count rounds for inserting eyes
and assembling arms.

R2 : inc around (12)

R3 : *inc, sc* x6 (18)
R4 : *inc, 2sc* x6 (24)
R5 : *inc, 3sc* x 6 (30)
R6 : *inc, 4sc* x6 (36)
R7 - 11 : sc around (36)
R12 : dec, 34sc (35)
R13 - 17: sc around (35)
R18 : dec, 33sc (34)
R19 - 23 : sc around (34)

Insert safety eyes between rounds 13 &14, count 6sts in

between. Begin stuffing and keep stuffing as you go.

R24 : dec, 32sc (33)

R25 - 29 : sc around (33)
R30 : dec, 31sc (32)
R31 - 35 : sc around (32)
R36 : dec, 30sc (31)
R37 - 41 : sc around (31)
R42 : dec, 29sc (30)
R43 - 47 : sc around (30)

SAND :
(using sand yarn)
Switch to sand yarn.
This part is mainly up to the size of the jar you want your cactus to fit in so just keep
crocheting increasing evenly by 6 stitches until you get the diameter needed.

R48 : *inc, 4sc* x6 (36)

R49 : *inc, 5sc* x6 (42)
R50 : *inc, 6sc* x6 (48)
etc...
© Armigurumi - 2015
 Once you’ve reached the right diameter, single crochet around the next row working
in back loops only. f
5
Then, single crochet arounf for a few rows (may depend on the depth of your jar but
you can also cheat by ballasting the bottom of the jar).

Keep in mind this have to be profound enough to make it stable by ballasting the
base.

When you’re happy with the crocheted height, sc around working in back loops only
once again.

Then, decrease evenly by 6 stitches.

Don’t forget stuffing as you go and ballasting the base with something heavy (gravel
from the garden or rice in a stocking for instance).

This will make your cactus very stable !

Sew hole close.

ARMS :
(make 2 using green yarn)
R1 : MR 6
R2 : inc around (12)
R3 : *inc, sc* x6 (18)
R4 : *inc, 2sc* x6 (24)
R5 - 7 : sc around (24)
R8 : dec, 22sc (23)
R9 - 11 : sc around (23)
R12 : dec, 21sc (22)
R13 -15 : sc around (22) slst in next stitch, and break yarn.
© Armigurumi - 2015
Now comes the trickiest part : curving the arm 6
ÌÌ From R16 TO R24

From R16 to 24, we won’t work in continuous rounds any more and won’t insert any new
stitch marker.

We will now work in rows, but will never turn the other way around.

After each row, you’ll work you will have to end with a slip stitch and break yarn (this
is to avoid the different look of stitches caused by changing direction or using other
stitches).

Joining yarn slsts and ending row slsts DO NOT count as stitches in the final row count.
Consider them as knots to secure your work, and always crochet in the stitches of
previous row rather than in slip stitch.

ÌÌ Re-joining the yarn in the next round

Let’s take R16 as an exemple :

R16 : pull a loop in 10th stitch from marker & slst, 13sc, slst, break yarn.

Start counting from the marker placed at the end of row 15, and count in the direction
you are stitching. In the case of row 16, you count up to the 10th stitch and join the
yarn in there.

Then follow the instructions «13sc, slst in your last stitch to secure yarn», by making
your first sc in the stitch you just joined yarn with a slst, and your last slst in the stitch
of your last sc. Always proceed this way unless told otherwise.

At the end of a row, cut yarn and leave a little length of 4 or 5 cm and make a tight
knot with previous yarn tail to secure your work and avoid bumps on the right side.
(fig.1, 2, 3 - I used red and yellow to help understand rows construction)

When starting a new row, never chain one as you would normally do when working in
rows.

(fig.1) (fig.2) (fig.3)

© Armigurumi - 2015
 ÌÌ STITCHES COUNT ON R15 AND R25 7
You’ll notice that R15 counts 22 stitches, while R25 ends up with 24 stitches. This is due
to adding some stitches upon slip stitches when curving the arm. However, if you end
up with 22 stitches at R25 it’s no big deal at all, but if you end up with fewer than 22
stitches I recommand you cheat a little bit by adding a few increases evenly on next row
until you reach 22sts.

ÌÌ tip to avoid sewing end in

When working on this part you’ll find yourself with many spare yarn «tails». To secure it
all and avoid a lot of sewing in, catch them into other stitches behind your work as you
stitch past the join.

R16 : pull a loop in 10th stitch from marker left at the end of previous row,
join with a slst,13sc, slst in last st, break yarn.

R17 : pull a loop & join with a slst right before 1st slst of previous row, 15sc,
slst in last st, break yarn. (see beginning of row 17 : fig.4, 5, 6, and ending of row fig. 7, 8, 9)

(fig.4) (fig.5) (fig.6)

(fig.7) (fig.8) (fig.9)

© Armigurumi - 2015
R18 : pull a loop & join with a slst right before 1st
slst of previous row, 17sc, slst in last st, break yarn.
8
R19 : pull a loop & join with a slst right before 1st
slst of previous row,19sc, slst in last st, break yarn.

R20 : pull a loop & join with a slst in the 5th stitch
of R19, sc in next stitch, 8sc, slst in next st, break
yarn.

R21(fig.10) : pull a loop & join with a slst right before (fig.10)
1st slst of previous row, 11sc, slst in next st, break
yarn.

R22 : pull a loop & join with a slst right before 1st
slst of previous row, 13sc, slst in next st, break yarn.

R23 : pull a loop & join with a slst right before 1st
slst of previous row, 15sc, slst in next st, break yarn.

R24 : pull a loop & join with a slst right before 1st
slst of previous row, 17sc, slst in next st, break yarn. (fig.11)
(fig.11)

Now back to COnTINUOUS ROUNDS :

R1 : pull a loop & join with a slst 2 stitches before

beginning of previous row, sc in next stitch, keep
going all around with sc, insert new stitch marker.
(24)

R2: dec, 20sc, dec (22)

R3 : dec, 18sc, dec (20)
R4 : sc around (20)
R5 : 4sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 4sc (22)
R6 : 4sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 3sc (25)
R7 : 6sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 5sc, inc 6sc (28)

Slst in next stitch, FO, leave long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly.
Sew one arm on the side between rounds 18 & 28, and the
other one on the other side between rounds 23 & 33.

© Armigurumi - 2015
 SOMBRERO :
9
(using yellow, red and green yarn)

Start with yellow yarn

R1 : MR 6
R2 : sc around (6)
R3 : inc x6 (12)
R4-5 : sc around (12)
R6 : *inc, sc1* x6 (18)
R7-8 : sc around (18)
R9 : *inc, sc2* x6 (24)
R10-11 : sc around (24)
R12 : *inc, sc3* x6 (30)
R13-14 : sc around (30)
R15 : *inc, sc4* x6 (36)
R16 -17 : sc around (36)
R18 : *inc, sc5 x6 (42)

Now, turn your work inside out. Chain one and turn as if working flat.
Keep going in continuous rounds with the following instructions :

R19 : (FLO) *inc, sc6* x6 (48)

R20 : *inc, sc7*x6 (54)
R21 : *inc, sc8 x6 (60)
R22 : *inc, sc9 x6 (72)

Switch ro red yarn

R23 : *slst, sc, hdc, dc, [dc, tr, dc] in same stitch, dc, hdc, sc* x9 (90)

Close round with a slst, cut yarn and fasten off.

Switch to green

R24 : Join yarn in 5th stitch of previous row with a slst (= this slst is the first of the
following instructions to repeat all around) *slst, sc, hdc, dc [cluster stitch : dc, tr,
dc], dc hdc, sc * x9 (72)

Switch to yellow yarn

R19 : sc around (72)

FO, weave in ends.

© Armigurumi - 2015
 10

Turn your work inside out once again.

Curve the edges of your sombrero upwards,

and do a little happy dance :D

MUSTACHE :
Working flat :

1. Ch3, slst in 1st stitch, ch 22, slst in 3rd ch from hook

2. Slst2, sc1, hdc1, skip next stitch, work 3dc in next stitch, skip next stit-
ch and hdc1, slst3, [hdc1, dc1] in next stitch, skip next stitch, work
[1dc,1tr,1dc] in next stitch, skip next stitch, [hdc1, dc1] in next stitch, sc1
slst2

FO, leave long tail for sewing on cactus right under the eyes.

For extra cuteness, embroider little cheeks with pink yarn :)

© Armigurumi - 2015
 11

This « Mexican Cactus » pattern is an original pattern

by Julie of Armigurumi (2015),
Sombrero pattern was totally rewritten, and cactus arms tutorial updated
with step-by-step pictures in march 2017.

Please do not claim this pattern as your own.

If you wish to share this pattern, you may link to this pattern but please do
not reproduce it on your site.

All Amigurumi patterns are for personal use only. Distribution of the patterns
electronically or as a hard copy is prohibited. The patterns or parts of it
may not be reproduced, published (online or printed), altered or resold.

You may sell the dolls made from the patterns, provided that they are
handmade by yourself in a limited number and you give credit to the
designer, aka Armigurumi.

Also, I would love to see your own version of this pattern !

Please send me a pic on my Facebook page, or e-mail me :
armigurumi@gmail.com

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
To view a copy of this license, visit
https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/legalcode

© Armigurumi - 2015