Mallorca 6 Ebook

PD
PDF ebook
Edition 6th Edition
Pages 192
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MALLORCA
Northern
Mallorca
p96
Western
Mallorca
p73
Eastern
The Interior Mallorca
p115 p128
^
Palma & Badia
de Palma
p42
Southern
Mallorca
p143
Laura McVeigh
01-contents-mao6.indd 1 1/27/2023 2:58:59 PM

CONTENTS
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Northern Mallorca....................96
Plan Your Trip Find Your Way.......................... 98
Plan Your Time......................100
Pollença...................................... 102
The Journey Begins Here......... 4 Alcúdia..........................................107
Mallorca Map...................................... 6 Beyond Alcúdia....................... 111
Our Picks................................................. 8 The Interior..................................... 115
Regions & Cities..............................18 Find Your Way.......................... 116
Plan Your Time........................118 Portocolom (p141)
Itineraries........................................... 20
Wine Country......................... 120
When to Go........................................ 28 The Interior Towns..............123
Get Prepared.................................... 30 Puig de Randa, Toolkit
Sineu & Petra...........................125
The Food Scene..............................32
The Outdoors................................... 36 Eastern Mallorca...................... 128
Find Your Way........................ 130 Arriving ..............................................160
Plan Your Time.......................132 Getting Around .............................161
Artà................................................. 134
Capdepera................................ 138 Money................................................... 162
Beyond Capdepera........... 140 Accommodation......................... 163
The Guide Southern Mallorca................. 143 Family Travel.................................. 164

Find Your Way........................ 144 Health & Safe Travel................ 165
Plan Your Time...................... 146 Food, Drink & Nightlife......... 166
Palma & Santanyí & Around............. 148
Responsible Travel ..................168
Badia de Palma.............................42 Capocorb Vell
& Cova des Coloms............152 LGBTIQ+ Travellers.................. 170
Find Your Way.......................... 44
Plan Your Days........................ 46 Mondragó Accessible Travel........................171
Central Palma.......................... 48 Natural Park............................. 154
How to Visit the Markets .....172
Santa Catalina......................... 60 Parc Nacional
de l’Arxipèlag Nuts & Bolts.................................... 173
Badia de Palma....................... 65
de Cabrera................................ 156 Language............................................174
Western Mallorca..................... 73
Find Your Way........................... 74
Plan Your Time......................... 76
Sóller............................................... 78 Storybook
Beyond Sóller............................81
Valldemossa
& the West Coast.................. 84 A History of
Andratx & Mallorca in 15 Places............... 178
the Southwest...........................91
Slow & Sustainable
Tourism.......................................... 182
The Creative Island..................185
Platja de Cala Gat,

Cala Ratjada (p22)
2
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PL AN YOUR TRIP
1/27/2023 2:59:01 PM
3
Cap de Formentor (p104)
Playa del Muro (p111)
01-contents-mao6.indd 3
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SHUTTERSTOCK ©
TOP: VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK © BOTTOM: LAURA MCVEIGH/LONELY PLANET ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Caló des Moro (p148)
MALLORCA
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE
White, sandy beaches stretching for miles, pristine coves,
turquoise waters and that seductive Mediterranean sky. The
dramatic mountain backdrop of the Serra de Tramuntana,
the vibrant Moorish-meets-Modernista vibe that is Palma,
the honey-coloured hillside villages of Deià and Fornalutx,
nestled amongst olive and orange groves and bedecked in
bursts of bougainvillea and scented jasmine. Incredible food,
vibrant local festivals, summertime open-air cinemas and
concerts, and arty enclaves. A rich island history seeped
in Spanish and Mallorquin…these are just a few reasons My favourite
to love Mallorca. However, for me, having made the island experience is an early-
home, it’s the warmth, kindness and resilient sense of hu- morning mountain hike
mour of the islanders that have captured my heart most. to Cap Gros lighthouse
Visit year-round and explore off the tourist trail to really for the stunning views
discover all this jewel of the Mediterranean has to offer. over Port de Sóller,
then a dip in a deserted
Laura McVeigh cove below, before a
day of writing.
lauramcveigh.com, @lcmcveigh
4 Laura is an internationally best-selling novelist and travel writer.
02-welcome-to-mao6.indd 4 1/23/2023 3:15:02 PM

VERONIKA GALKINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Valldemossa (p84)
5

Santa María
Sóller del Camí
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Ride the vintage Cala S

Sa Foradada Take the train and Vice
tram to take stop at villages
Arrive by boat or hike in Modernista Por
en route for a tour Polle
through olive groves from architecture and of the vineyards Poll
Son Marroig (p89)
#
Ù
art – Picasso, Miró (p120) Sa M

and more (p78)
#
Ù
Lluc
Port de Sóller #
Ù #
Ù
Son
Torella
Sa Dragonera Caimari Moscari Sa# Po
Access the Nature
Ù
# #
Ù
#
Sóller Mancor de Ù# Selva
reserve by boat
Ù
#
#
Ù
Deià Orient la Vall
for hiking away #
Ù
Lloseta
#
Ù
from the crowds Ē Valldemossa Ù

# #
Inca
(p95)
#
Ù
#
Ù
Alaró
Banyalbufar
#
Ù
Port des #
Ù
Bunyola
#
Ù
Canonge Ù
# Binissalem
#
Ù
S'Esgleieta
#
Ù
Consell Costitx
Esporles Santa María Ù# #
Ù
Estellencs Ù# #
Ù
Biniali
na
del Camí Sencelles Sineu

Santa
#
Ù #
Ù
ta
Ù
#
un Establiments
EugèniaÙ#
m #
Ù
La Cabaneta
ra Puigpunyent
Ù
#
Son Ruberts
eT
Ù
# #
Ù
#
Ù
d Sardina
ra SantÙ# J
Ser La Vileta
Palma
v Sant Elm
ġ #
Ù
Es Capdellà #
Ù
Palma
Admire Moorish and
#
Ù
Ħ^
#
Ù
#
S'Arracó Calvià
Andratx
ħ Ħ
#
Ù
Modernista architecture
Port Ù# Cala
#
Ù
ĵ in this lively cultural
d'Andratx
#
Peguera Major
#
Ù
Ca'n
Magaluf Pastilla capital (p42)
Ù
# # Porre
Santa Ponça Ù# Badia de #
Ù
S'Arenal
El Toro Ù# Palma #
Llucmajor
#
Ù
Portals
Vells Portixol
People-watch on the # Cam
promenade in this charming
Illetes low-key harbour with popular
eateries (p68)
Enjoy the upmarket coves and
pretty beach with relaxed beach Sa Ràpita Ù#
Cala Pi Ù# S
club vibes (p71) Santa
ħ SalÙ#
Catalina
Platja
Join the laid-back des Trenc
international
crowd in this Lose yourself on
former sailors’ this wild beach
quarter (p60) with white sand Ca
and azure waters Ses S
(p149)
Illa des
Conills
Mediterranean Illa de
Sea Cabrera
Parc Nacional
6 Arxipèlag de
Cabrera

Cap de
Platja de Formentor
Ca'n Formentor Discover a beautiful, sandy
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Cala Sant Es Faro
Vicenç pine-backed cove (p104)
ħ
#
Ù
#
Ù
Port de Ù#
Pollença Badia de
#
Ù
Pollença Pollença
Sa Marina Ù# # Bonaire
Ù
Pol·lèntia
Alcúdia #
Explore fascinating Roman ruins
S #
Ù
(p107)
Alcanada
Platges Badia
de Mallorca d'Alcúdia Cap
#
Ù Ferrutx
oscari Sa# Pobla S'Arenal et
#
Ù Ca'n Ù# #
Ù
des Verger
Picafort Colònia de #
Ù
Sant Pere Betlem

Muro Son Serra Ù
# #
Ù
#
Ù
Cala
Son
#
Ù #
Ù
de Marina S'Estanyol
Morell Ratjada Punta de
Capdepera
#
Ù #
Ù
Ses Vell Capdepera Ù# Ù#
# Capdepera
Pastoras Visit the castle
#
Ù
Santa Son Artà # Son Moll
Margalida Doblons Ù
# #
Ù with crenellated
ostitx Son Font de walls, and
CanyamelÙ# Sa Cala
Figuera
#
Ù
lles #
Ù
Sineu #
Ù
Ariany twisting village
# Costa de
Ù
lanes (p138)
los Pinos
Ruberts Sant Llorenç Ù#
#
Ù
Petra Son #
Ù
Cala Bona
SantÙ# Joan d'es Cardassa
Carrio #
Ù
Son Moro
#
Ù
#
Ù
Manacor
#
Vilafranca
de Bonany Porto Ù#
Cristo
#
Ù Santuari de
# Porreres Porto Cristo Sant Salvador
Novo
ajor Find serenity in a hilltop former
# Felanitx Cales de monastery with breathtaking
#
Ù
Mallorca panoramic views (p134)
Ca'n Roig
# Campos #
Ù
Portocolom
#
S'Horta
#
Ù
Ù
# Sa Punta
Ù
#
S'Alqueria Ù# Calonge
Blanca Cala d'Or
#
Ses Santanyí #
Ù
Portopetro
Salines
#
Ù
Mondragó Natural Park
ħ Ù
# Ù
#
Llombards #
Ù Take the boardwalk through
Cala pine-forest trails to these
Figuera
sheltered coves (p154)
Cap de
Ses Salines
lla des
Conills
cional
ag de e 00 20 km 7
era 10 miles

PL AN YOUR TRIP
PROSLGN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR LEFT: CARLOS L VIVES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LEFT: FRANK LAMBERT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

WILD
ADVENTURES
OUR PICKS
Home to the Unesco-recognised Serra de

Tramuntana, and with a diverse landscape and a
mild Mediterranean climate, Mallorca offers a real
back-to-nature experience. Cycling hairpin bends
or scaling limestone crags, wandering mountain
trails and sleeping in refuges. Adrenaline junkies
can go canyoning, diving and cliff jumping. Those
after a more sedate pace can explore the wetlands
and birdlife of natural parks such as S’Albufera,
l'Arxipèlag de Cabrera or Sa Dragonera.
Best of Birdwatching Responsible Hiking
Come in the springtime for Remember to take your rubbish

birdwatching at the S’Albufera home with you, stay on the marked
wetlands. Birders can enter the trails and respect local wildlife.
park earlier in the mornings, before Be particularly mindful if crossing
official opening, just after sunrise. private property.
Hunting Season
Be careful near areas marked Coto Privado de Caza.

8 These are often used for hunting. Stick to main trails.
03-our-picks-mao6.indd 8 1/23/2023 3:43:07 PM

Road to Sa Calobra (p81)
PL AN YOUR TRIP
2
#
4
#
5
#
OUR PICKS
3 #
# 1
BEST WILDERNESS
EXPERIENCES
Hike some of the 140km GR221

Trail 1 , which stretches along
the Tramuntana mountains
from Andratx to Pollença, or try
one of the shorter walks from
Andratx. (p94)
Cycle the snaking route down

to Sa Calobra 2 , considered
one of the most scenic and
dangerous roads, given its
gradient, hairpin bends, narrow
stretches and busy summer
traffic. Only for those with
nerves of steel. (p90)
In high season, head by ferry to

Sa Dragonera 3 , an uninhabited
island and conservation base.
Hike, picnic, swim and enjoy the
unspoilt terrain. (p95)
Pack your binoculars and visit

the wetlands of Parc Natural de
S’Albufera 4 for birdwatching.
Spring is best though the winter
months are also rewarding. (p112)
Explore Llevant Natural

Park 5 , a beautiful, protected
wildlife area rich in walking
routes with shelters along the
way. (p136)

ZIXIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: MARKUS MAINKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR RIGHT: VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
OUR PICKS
2
#
4
#
1#
# 3
Festival revellers in Sineu (p126)
BEST FESTIVAL
EXPERIENCES
FANTASTIC
Dress up for Carnaval and
join Sa Rua 1 . There are
parades, parties, bands,
FESTIVALS
and food stalls, and kids
get their own version – Sa
Rueta. (p118)
Mallorcans wholeheartedly embrace their Es Firó 2 sees a re-

enactment of a raid by
island traditions and throughout the year Turkish pirates on Port de
there are many festivals, whether religious, Sóller and Sóller. (p77)
historical or cultural, including several Evolution Film
music and film festivals, through to harvest Festival 3 comes to the
festivals for wine, honey and olives. island in October each
year with screenings and
Festival Calendar Major Celebrations events to attend. (p53)
Local festivals are important on Key celebrations and events Processio de la Beata 4
the island. Islanders of all ages on the island include Carnaval in Santa Margalida sees
take part from the youngest in February, the more solemn the townsfolk in
to oldest, and lively coverage Semana Santa (Holy Week) and traditional costume, a
features on the island TV Festa Sant Jordi on 23 April, series of ornate floats and
channel IB3. celebrated in many towns. devils dancing through
the crowds. (p123)
10

PL AN YOUR TRIP
FABULOUS
FINCAS
OUR PICKS
Get a real sense of island living and history
by staying in one of the many gorgeous fincas
(country estates) dotted around the island.
Some are more rustic and authentic, others
3 1
#
offer soothing luxury stays in stunning #
5
#
4
#
settings.
2
#
BEST FINCA STAY

EXPERIENCES
Monnaber Nou Eco

Hotel & Spa 1 is spread
over 225 hectares, with
a spa and pool. This
eco-certified farm has an
emphasis on ethical use
of resources. (p124)
Son Mas 2 is a sprawling,

Go Something for All sleek, renovated country
Eco-Friendly Budgets estate dating back to the
17th century, with large
Book an eco finca stay, or Fincas can be simple, rustic grounds and a spa. (p141)
try one that is on a working accommodation through to
farm. high-end luxury. Idyllic country estate Ca’s
Xorc 3 offers incredible
dining, gardens and a
panoramic view. Perfect
for those keen to hike in
the Tramuntana. (p79)
Mirabó de Valldemossa
Finca Restaurants 4 is a 16th-century finca
in a perfect location for
local hikes. (p85)
Many of the larger fincas have fabulous restaurants on site.
Check the Michelin Guide for suggestions. Hotel Predi Son
Jaumell 5 is a luxurious
choice with a Michelin-
starred restaurant. (p139) 11

PL AN YOUR TRIP
SIMON DANNHAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR LEFT: DANISKIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LEFT: SIMON DUX MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CALAS &
BEACHES
OUR PICKS
With almost as many bays and calas as days in the

year, Mallorca is for many all about the coastline and
its glorious sandy beaches and rocky coves. There’s
something for all tastes, from the wild sands of Es
Trenc to the white sands and windsurfing of Pollença
and Alcúdia in the north; from sheltered, family-
friendly Port de Sóller to the rocky calas of the west
coast; from the sandy harbour towns on the island's
east and southeast to the party beaches of Badia de
Palma.
Water Sports Enthusiasts Off the Beaten Track
Try windsurfing, kitesurfing, diving, Explore in search of quiet coves and

canyoning or coasteering with rock pools. Head to the northeast
one of the island’s water sports or to find undiscovered gems; the
activities specialists. coastline here is full of harder-to-
reach coves.
Keep Your Cool
By all means, make like a lizard in the sun, but bring sun
12 protection – it can be warmer than the breeze suggests.

Platja des Trenc (p149)
PL AN YOUR TRIP
1
#
2
#
OUR PICKS
4 #
# 5
3
#
BEST BEACH
EXPERIENCES
Follow in the sandy footsteps

of Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth
Taylor and Charlie Chaplin at the
beautiful, pine-backed Platje de
Formentor 1 . (p104)
Snorkel in Cala Banyalbufar 2

– not the easiest to find but a
gem, with steep steps down to
the tiny harbour and traditional
fishing huts. Best to park in the
village and walk down, unless
you arrive very early. (p88)
Discover kilometres of wild

beach, white sand and
turquoise waters at Platje des
Trenc 3 . (p149)
Spend the day at one of the

island's beach clubs – Illetes 4
offers stunning settings close to
Palma that feel a million miles
away from city life. (p71)
Sign the kids up for surf

school with Bonaona in
Ca’n Pastilla 5 . If there are
no waves, they can learn
skateboarding, paddleboarding
or kayaking instead. (p65)
13

ALEX TIHONOVS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: FANFO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR RIGHT: NEME_JIMENEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
OUR PICKS
1
#
4
#
4 5 #
# #
3 5
#
1 #
# 2 #1
Kathmandu Park
BEST FAMILY FUN

EXPERIENCES
FAMILY FUN
The best water parks are
Western Water Park 1
in Magaluf, Aqualand 1
in S’Arenal and Hidropark
Alcúdia 1 . (p71, p65, p109)
Mallorca is a popular family destination and
there are plenty of activities and places to Kathmandu Park 2
offers a range of play
keep kids busy. Whether water parks, horse areas, rides and an upside-
riding, surfing, ziplining and rock climbing, down house. (p71)
tackling easier mountain treks, cycling,
Stuck on a rainy day? Head
learning to windsurf, kayak or just enjoying to the Palma Aquarium 3
swimming and lazy days at the beach, to see marine life. (p65)
Mallorca has you and them covered.
For ziplining and
adventure courses, check
Do Something Go in Search of
out Jungle Parc 4 or visit
Different Wilderness La Reserva 4 for outdoor
activities. (p71, p58)
Spend an afternoon horse A day exploring Cabrera island
riding by the beach in Son Serra or Sa Dragonera is a get-away- Head to some of the
de Marina. from-it-all option. Pack a picnic, island’s underground
sun cream and hats, and take a caves, such as Coves
boat out to the nature parks. del Drac 5 or Coves de
14 Génova 5 . (p141, p71)

PL AN YOUR TRIP
FINE DINING
Local Mallorcan cuisine is surprisingly hearty
and rustic. Tapas, while available in many
OUR PICKS
restaurants, are somewhat less traditional.
Palma offers a wide range of international
cuisine, from poke bowls to enchiladas to
sushi, and vegetarians and vegans, as well as
those eating gluten-free, are surprisingly well #5
3
#
catered for island-wide. There is also a wave of
innovative chefs creating a wide range of fine 1
#
dining (often Michelin-starred) experiences 4 #
# 2
across the island.
BEST FINE DINING

EXPERIENCES
Talented Michelin-starred
chef Maca de Castro is
known for quality food
and now has Andana 1 in
Palma. (p55)
Dins Santi Taura 2 is

one for grown-ups only
– and it’s sophisticated
cooking putting a modern
Vegan? Gluten-free? Traditional twist on Mallorcan
No Problem! Fare classics. (p55)
An array of eating options Check out a celler (wine cellar With its stunning
abound, particularly in Palma’s turned into a restaurant) for a mountain setting and
Santa Catalina and the Old truly traditional meal. terrace views, Es Racó
Town. d’es Teix 3 is a Deià
institution. (p89)
Botànic Restaurant 4
offers a plant-forward
dining experience with
0km local produce in the
Cooking Courses heart of Palma. (p56)
Béns d’Avall 5 near

Sign up for a cookery workshop in Palma to learn about
Deià, with beautiful views
Mallorcan cuisine. Ecocirer in Sóller runs cooking
over the sea, serves up
workshops for kids focused on healthy eating.
quality cooking based on
a permaculture approach
to produce. (p80) 15

PL AN YOUR TRIP
ARTISTIC
JOAN_BAUTISTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR LEFT: NAEBLYS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LEFT: ERNEST ROSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

ADVENTURES
OUR PICKS
Mallorca has long drawn artists to its shores, and

now it’s home to a vibrant art and gallery scene.
From the contemporary CCA gallery in Andratx with
its programme of artist talks and workshops, to the
Fundació Miró Mallorca in Palma, there is a wide
range of art to explore on the island.
Visit Artist Studios Day as an Artist
Organise studio visits to see work Have a go at pottery, ceramics,

currently under way on the island weaving or painting. Drop-in classes
with Art Balear studio tours. are available island-wide.
Island Artist
See the work of Miquel Barceló, renowned local artist

from Felanitx, including his sculptural work within La
16 Seu, Palma’s cathedral.

Betty Gold’s Para ti sculpture at Es Baluard Museu de Art Contemporani (p53), Palma
PL AN YOUR TRIP
4
#
OUR PICKS
2
#
#3
1 5
# #
BEST ART GALLERY

EXPERIENCES
Fundació Miró Mallorca 1

showcases Joan Miró’s studios
on the island as they were, with a
collection of his paintings. (p53)
Museu Fundación Juan

March 2 in Palma features
a large exhibition of
contemporary Spanish art
including works by Miró,
Picasso, Dalí and Barceló. (p53)
Es Baluard 3 is housed in an
imposing 16th-century fortress
by the waterfront in Palma. Spot
works by Tàpies, Miró and Dalí,
and enjoy the sculptures on its
terraces. (p53)
C'an Prunera 4 in Sóller has a

fine collection of art, including
work by Picasso and Miró, and
a beautiful garden at the back.
More ceramics by Picasso and
artworks by Miró can be visited
in the galleries in the Sóller train
station. (p78)
Nit de l’Art 5 is a special event

in Palma when the galleries
open through the night and
there is a programme of events,
talks and entertainment. (p53)
17

REGIONS & CITIES
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Find the places that tick all your boxes.
Western Mallorca
REGIONS & CITIES
C U LT U R E A N D N AT U R E
Follow the footsteps of Frédéric
Chopin and George Sand in
charming Valldemossa; explore
the beautiful mountains of the
Serra de Tramuntana, a Unesco
Biosphere Reserve; discover the Western
island’s gorgeous coastline by Mallorca
boat from Port de Sóller; and get
lost wandering in orange and olive
p73
groves in the bougainvillea-filled
hill villages.
p73
Th
^
Palma & Badia
de Palma
p42
Palma & Badia

de Palma
AT T H E H E A RT O F T H E
MEDITERR ANEAN
Moorish meets Modernista in
Palma’s pretty streets with
stunning architecture, art
galleries, eateries, nightlife,
shopping, festivals, markets and
culture. During the day, relax on The Interior
one of the bay’s many golden- V I N E YA R D S A N D S O U L F U L SA N C T UA R I E S
sand beaches. There are sailing
Visit sanctuaries with incredible panoramic views Sou
schools for the energetic, and
beach clubs for those less for a soulful retreat. Stay in a mountain refugi Mal
inclined, more reclined. (shelter) to get back to basics. Sample the celler p
restaurants and vineyard tours of the interior,
p42 and drop into laid-back honey-coloured towns
and villages. Visit in spring for the wildflowers or
autumn for the harvest festivals.
p115
18
04-regions-cities-mao6.indd 18 1/23/2023 3:44:41 PM

PL AN YOUR TRIP
Northern Mallorca
RO M A N RU I N S A N D B L I S S F U L B E AC H E S
Explore the island’s Roman past at Pol·lèntia,
walk the old city walls of Alcúdia or wander
the whitewashed lanes. Windsurf at Pollença
bay. Surf, sail or just soak up the sun on endless
Alcúdia beach with its wooden boardwalk
REGIONS & CITIES

shaded by pine trees. Parc Natural de S’Albufera
beckons.
Northern p96
Mallorca
p96
The Interior
Eastern
p115
Mallorca Eastern Mallorca
p128
CAS T L E S , CAV E S A N D C OV E S
There’s magic in the east of
the island. Catch the golden-
hour light on the castle walls
at Capdepera, and hike in
peaceful Llevant Natural Park,
discovering its hidden coves and
beaches. Go underground with
the mysterious Coves del Drac.
Feeling adventurous? Join a
local excursion to go canyoning,
kayaking, diving or climbing.
p128
Southern Southern Mallorca

Mallorca W I L D B E AC H E S A N D F I S H I N G V I L L AG E S
p143 With boutique boltholes and fabulous fincas
(rural estates), a stay in the south offers wild
beaches, calas and a stunning natural park
at Mondragó, with nearby fishing villages to
explore. Ancient Bronze Age sites and a pristine
island nature reserve, Illa de Cabrera, make for
rewarding visits.
p143
19
04-regions-cities-mao6.indd 19 1/23/2023 3:44:42 PM

SINA ETTMER PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
ITINER ARIES
Banyalbufar (p87)
ITINERARIES
Coastline & Culture

Allow: 10 days Distance: 107km
Hire a car in low or shoulder season to explore the west of the island
and discover stunning scenery, visit picturesque mountain valley
villages, and sample Mallorcan cuisine and culture. Stop at vibrant art
galleries and rich historical sites along the way.
1 2 3
ANDRATX 2 DAYS BANYALBUFAR 1 DAY VALLDEMOSSA 1 DAY
Begin at Andratx (p91), The twisting coastal road offers Visit the old-time residence of
visiting the contemporary art stunning views all along the west Frédéric Chopin and George
collection at CCA Andratx coast. Stop off at Estellencs Sand, and explore the cobbled
(closed Mondays). Andratx (p87) and fuel up at one of the streets of Valldemossa (p84).
makes a good base for exploring cafes or restaurants en route to This is the birthplace of the
the nearby coast (a trip to the peaceful Banyalbufar (p87), a only local saint, Santa Catalina.
Sa Dragonera Natural Park, good base for hiking. There are There are a smattering of art
pictured above, by boat, for several beautiful, unspoilt coves galleries, plenty of cafe and
example) and for hiking in the and calas nearby (though the restaurant options, and the
Serra de Tramuntana. The Puig drive down is challenging and setting is breathtaking. It's
de Galatzó has several popular the road narrow). nicest after the day-trippers
hiking trails. 25 minutes have left in the evenings.
40 minutes 17 minutes
20 KRIS HOOBAER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, KONSTANTIN TRONIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, KATRINEAANENSEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
05-itineraries-mao6.indd 20 1/24/2023 10:23:25 AM

e00 10 km
5 miles
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Ù
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ITINER ARIES
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4 5 6
DEIÀ 1 DAY SÓLLER 2 DAYS POLLENÇA 2–3 DAYS
A bit of a victim of its own Travel back in time in Sóller Stop en route in scenic
success, pretty Deià (p88) is (p78), with its squares full of Fornalutx (p79), one of Spain’s
currently best visited in the orange trees and its beautiful prettiest villages. Travel on
quieter months. Parking here in buildings. A tram runs to the past incredible mountain views
the summer is tricky as visitors nearby Port de Sóller, nestled in and visit Monestir de Lluc,
flock to Cala Deià (one of the the foothills of the Tramuntana. from which there are a wide
settings in The Night Manager). There are art exhibitions, range of hikes, before driving
Once home to writer Robert shopping, botanical gardens down to Pollença (p102). This
Graves, Deià has drawn artists, and festivals. There is also vibrant island town makes a
writers and musicians over the superb hiking, diving and sailing good base to continue on to
years. Beautiful, if you can find in the Golden Valley. Cap de Formentor, with its wild
a parking space. 1 hour 16 minutes (by mountain nature and stunning beaches
25 minutes route) and coves.
VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ALLARD ONE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK © 21

SIMON DANNHAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
ITINER ARIES
Platja de Cala Gat in Cala Ratjada
ITINERARIES
History & Hidden Gems

Explore hidden coves and historical gems in this lesser-visited region of

the island. A good place to get away from the crowds while discovering
a more authentic side to island life. Hire a car or make it a longer trip
and cycle instead.
1 2 3
MANACOR 1–2 DAYS ARTÀ 1 DAY CAPDEPERA 1 DAY
A busy interior town, Manacor An authentic rural town, Artà With plenty of history from
(p118) is not on the tourist trail. (p134) can be explored on foot. the Bronze Age to its medieval
On Mondays visit the town’s Discover its winding streets, castle walls, the characterful
vibrant markets. The town's castle walls and spectacular town of Capdepera (p138)
‘son’, Rafael Nadal, has a tennis views over the Llevant Natural offers fine dining, agroturismo
academy nearby. This is a good Park. Tuesdays are market day, options nearby and a popular
inland base to visit Portocolom, renowned for both pottery and market on Wednesdays. Cala
coves and beaches, and the basket-weaving. With Bronze Ratjada, Cala Agulla and Font
Coves del Drac. From here too, Age settlement remains, the de Sa Cala are all nearby to
you can hike, cycle or ride a Caves d’Artà and the Santuari de explore, as is the Llevant Natural
horse along the 29km-long eco- Sant Salvador, there is plenty to Park. Visit in May for the lively
path that connects to Artà. draw those interested in history. Medieval Fair held at the castle.
24 minutes 15 minutes 24 minutes
22 VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RAFAEL MARTIN-GAITERO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOKE VAN EEGHEM/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ù
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ITINER ARIES
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CONCEPT ISLAND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
4
SON SERRA DE MARINA
1 DAY
Again off the beaten tourist
track and more popular
with locals, Son Serra de
Marina (p112) is a spot for
surfers, adventure sports
fans (canyoning, kayaking,
windsurfing, kitesurfing, caving,
horse riding and scuba diving)
and those keen to explore
wildlife areas such as the
neighbouring Parc Narutal de
S’Albufera. Cycling the eco-path connecting Manacor and Artà
MEGAPIXELES.ES/SHUTTERSTOCK © 23

DANISKIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
ITINER ARIES
Vineyard in Sencelles
ITINERARIES
Vineyards & Villages

Visit the island heartland to tour the vineyards (book in advance) and
villages of the interior. Travelling by train is an option for part of this trip
with Santa María, Binissalem and Inca all on the same train route (with
the remainder covered by bus). Alternatively hire a car.
1 2 3
SANTA MARÍA DEL CAMÍ BINISSALEM 1 DAY INCA 1 DAY
1 DAY Home to wine production on the Known for its leatherwork and
With boutiques, cafes and island, the sleepy sandstone traditional celler restaurants,
restaurants, Santa María (p120) town of Binissalem (p120) Inca (p119) is Mallorca’s third-
is a good rural hub for visiting makes a pleasing, authentic largest town. The busy market
nearby vineyards (Macià Batle base to explore the local area. takes place on Thursdays. With
and Bodegas Angel are both In September the Festa des plenty of cafes and restaurants,
local). Sundays are market day Vermar raucously celebrates Inca is well served with
when the town bursts into life. the grape harvest. You can transport links and is a good
Plenty of fincas (rural estates) arrange visits to Bodegas José base for exploring vineyards in
and boutique hotels nearby Luis Ferrer (pictured above) or the area.
for stays. nearby Bodegas Biniagual or 11 minutes
13 minutes Celler Tianna Negre.
11 minutes
24 VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ARTESIA WELLS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOAN LLADO/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©

#
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1 mile
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ITINER ARIES
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ARTESIA WELLS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
4 5
SENCELLES 1 DAY SANTA EUGÈNIA 1 DAY
For a real taste of rural Another one-time Moorish
Mallorcan life, visit Sencelles, village on the vineyard route,
an agricultural hub in the centre sleepy Santa Eugènia is home
of the Pla de Mallorca, known for to Vinja Taujana, which offers
its wine-making, olive oil, sheep a vineyard tour, tasting and
rearing and fig production. tapas. Natura Parc (a small zoo
It’s surrounded by interesting and conservation centre) is also
archaeological sites, and a visit here. The weekly market falls
to the planetarium (near Costitx) on a Saturday and the area is a
is worthwhile. Vineyards to visit good base for hiking or cycling.
here include Can Ramis (p122). There are some excellent small
Wednesday is market day. hotels and restaurants in the
village and surrounding area. Wine bottles in Binissalem
13 minutes
MICKES PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, TOLOBALAGUER.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK © 25

DANISKIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
ITINER ARIES
Skimboarding, Cala Mesquida (p137)
ITINERARIES
Active Adventures
For all things adventure-related, from canyoning to psicobloc,

kitesurfing to scuba diving, cliff jumping to paragliding, rock climbing to
horse riding, get your adrenaline fill here. Base yourself at one or two
adventure hubs and book with local adventure experts.
1 2 3
POLLENÇA 2 DAYS ALCÚDIA 2 DAYS SON SERRA DE MARINA
Port de Pollença (p104) has a Just around the bay, touristy 1 DAY
wide range of accommodation Port d'Alcúdia (p109) has fine Quieter and off the beaten
close to the water sports beaches with a wide range of path, Son Serra de Marina
activities on offer in the beautiful water sports schools in the (p112) is popular with surfers,
bay and surrounding areas. bay – try kayaking, SUP or windsurfers and kitesurfers. It is
Learn to sail, windsurf, kitesurf or windsurfing. Paragliding is on also a popular centre for horse
dive with local instructors. Enjoy offer here too. Inland Alcúdia riding. This beautiful stretch of
stunning cycling and hiking (p107), with its historic past and coastline captivates.
routes on the Cap de Formentor. city walls encircling its maze 59 minutes
Inland historic Pollença (p102) of narrow, cobbled streets, is
is charming, with a fine range of another fine base for adventure
accommodation. breaks.
20 minutes 32 minutes
26 GIOVANNI G/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LUNAMARINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

#
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~
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#
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ITINER ARIES
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MIQUEL A. NADAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
4 5
SANTANYÍ 2–3 DAYS PALMA 2–3 DAYS
If you're keen to explore caves, Why not extend your trip and
snorkel or jet-ski, Santanyí add on Palma (p42)? Hire
(p148) can make a relaxing bikes to cycle the Badia de
base for an adventurous trip. Palma, sign up with a sailing
There are also trips to nearby school, spend the day ziplining
Illa de Cabrera for scuba or take the kids to the local
diving. Santanyí has attractive water parks. Let one of the
restaurants and beautiful local adventure companies
accommodation options. Also such as Món d’Aventura or
close by is Mondragó Natural Rock & Ride Mallorca organise
Park (pictured above), popular your climbing, canyoning,
for SUP, kayaking and hiking. horse riding and coasteering
excursions. Cala Santanyí (p148)
52 minutes
MICHELE ALFIERI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, NEME_JIMENEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK © 27

WHEN TO GO
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Visit Palma year-round, while spring, summer and autumn are best
for exploring and enjoying the rest of the island.
Spring brings soft clouds of almond blossom to the trees,
I LIVE HERE
and wildflowers dot the countryside. Come for hiking or
WHEN TO GO
cycling, Carnaval or Semana Santa (Holy Week) proces-

sions. Summertime is all about the beach and lazy alfres- SEASONAL
co days, with music festivals and open-air cinema by night. CONNECTIONS
Enjoy local celebrations such as Festa de la Verge del Carme
(16 July) with processions in the seaside villages. Autumn Carmen R. Huidobro set
is harvest time on the island with Festa des Vermar, cel- up españolita.net to
give her children greater
ebrating the grape harvest, and a time to enjoy nature. connection to her heritage.
Early autumn is still very pleasant for swimming and wa- @espanolita_net
ter sports. Winter sees a quieter, cooler side to the island. “I love living in Mallorca
Palma twinkles with lights and the Christmas markets because of how its unique
line Passeig d'es Born. On 5 January Three Kings parades island methodologies and
take place around the island. Palma starts the year with traditions are maintained.
Sant Sebastià fireworks and live music in the city plazas. The island is full of hidden
gems, magical places I keep
Best Deals discovering. There is a deep
respect for nature and the
Best accommodation deals are for shoulder season or low seasons here, how things
season. For Easter and summer book well in advance. connect with each other.
My connection to Spain is
strongest here, it’s in the
nostalgia I feel in the sea, the
nature, and I try to evoke that
RIGHT: JULEN ARABAOLAZA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: SEBAS ADROVER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
in retreats and residencies

through Españolita.”
THE WIND
In the winter months mistral
(northwest) and Tramontana
(north) winds cross the island, and
from March thermal winds start to
blow, making the island popular with
kitesurfers. Temperatures range from
cooler 10°C to 15°C in the winter,
reaching highs in the 40s in the
summer months.
Almond trees in blossom
Weather through the year
JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE

Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime
max: 15°C max: 15°C max: 18°C max: 20°C max: 24°C max: 28°C
Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall:
28 5 5 5 5 4 2
06-when-to-go-mao6.indd 28 1/26/2023 4:13:22 PM

I LIVE HERE
PL AN YOUR TRIP
SÓLLER
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
Mallorca, the largest of the Balearic Islands, has a varied landscape Born and raised in
ranging from mountains, to an interior of pine forests, almond and Sóller, Xisca Coll set up
olive groves, to sheltered coves and bays dotted around its 550km Immobiliaria Xisca Coll.
coastline. It makes for a climate of mild winters and hot summer @immobiliariaxixcacoll
months. The north is cooler and more humid, especially in winter. “Sóller, an island within
an island. Surrounded by
Main Festivals
WHEN TO GO
mountains that seem to
have been created by a
In Palma, Festes de Sant Semana Santa is celebrated
magical painter. There is
Sebastià are exuberant island-wide with processions no day that I look up and
celebrations with fireworks, on Maundy Thursday and Good don’t feel amazed by them
parades, live music and beach Friday. In Pollença there is a and blessed for having the
parties. February sees Carnaval torch-lit event on the Calvari chance to enjoy them. My
across the island, with parades, steps (p102). In Palma about dad taught me the names
fancy dress and decorated 5000 people take part in the of each of the peaks, and
floats. Sa Rua in Palma also has Semana Santa procession. when I’m up on any of them
a version for children called Holy Week in March/April I get that special feeling of
Sa Rueta. January and happiness and freedom.”
The interior of the island
February celebrates the grape harvest
Palma gears up with another with the Festa des Vermar,
night of festivities for Nit de and a large grape fight is held
Sant Joan (p54), with correfoc in Binissalem (p123) as part
(fire running), beach parties of the festivities. Late
and live music until dawn. September
23 June
Local Celebrations & Festivals

A major event held in Port weeklong celebrations.
de Sóller is Es Firó (p77), August
where a mock battle is held The Dia de Virgen del Carmen Sóller (p78)
to commemorate a 1561 is an atmospheric celebration.
event where invading pirates In recognition of the patron
were defeated by the local saint of sailors and fisherfolk,
townspeople, led by the so- statues of the Virgin Mary are
called Valiant Women. Large carried in a procession, there is
crowds gather in costumes for WHAT WEATHER TO
a blessing of boats and torches
a re-enactment. Second EXPECT
are lit. Can be seen in Port de
Sunday in May Sóller, Portocolom, Colònia October is usually the wettest
A similar Festes de la Patrona de Sant Pere, Palma and other month, though thunderstorms in
(p102) takes place in Pollença ports. 15/16 July late August are common. June
and July are the driest months.
with a staged battle during
July sees an average of 346 hours
of sunshine, though sea breezes
help cool the island.
JULY AUGUST SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER

Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime Ave. daytime
max: 32°C max: 32°C max: 27°C max: 25°C max: 19°C max: 16°C
Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall: Days of rainfall:
1 2 4 6 6 6 29
06-when-to-go-mao6.indd 29 1/26/2023 4:13:23 PM

LEFT: TOLOBALAGUER.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK © RIGHT: BRAT82/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
GET PREPARED
Camí de S’Arxiduc (p95), Valldemossa
GET PREPARED
FOR MALLORCA
Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain
Clothes
Manners
Layers: With about 300 days of sunshine
each year, Mallorca is renowned for its Greet and thank people in Mallorquin
warm climate. However, evenings in (particularly away from the tourist hubs)
spring and autumn can be cooler (and and you’ll be rewarded with a warm smile.
windy by the coast), and in the winter It might not look like a queue at the bank,
the mountains sometimes get a dusting shop or restaurant, but there is a system at
of snow. Thunder and rainstorms are work. Ask who is last in line when you join.
possible in August and September, By the same token, practise patience.
October is the rainiest month usually, and Remember to dress appropriately.
March and April can see rain showers. If The centre of Palma is not the place for
hiking, protective layers are essential for beachwear.
the higher reaches.
Footwear: Hiking boots are essential for around the cobbled, sometimes steep,
any mountain walking. Comfortable flat village and town streets of the island.
sandals or shoes are best for walking Hats: Pack a hat to protect from sunshine.
30
07-get-prepared-mao6.indd 30 1/23/2023 3:49:52 PM

READ
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Wild Olives: Life in Snowball Oranges: One Mallorcan A Lizard in My Luggage
Majorca with Robert One Mallorcan Winter Summer (Peter Kerr) (Anna Nicholas) One
Graves (William Graves) (Peter Kerr) Humorous More island living of a series of charming
GET PREPARED
Excellent account of a memoir of island living. adventures. Mallorcan memoirs.
Deià childhood with a
famous father.
Words WAT C H
Two languages are spoken Don’t mention it De res

on the island, Spanish and Goodbye Adèu (day-ooh)/
Mallorquin. While Spanish Fins un altra! Meaning ‘until
is more commonly spoken next time’ in sense of ‘see
in the large tourist resorts, you soon’ or ‘see you again’.
Mallorquin is spoken by the That one Això is one of the
islanders. most useful words, meaning
MALLORQUIN ‘that thing/that one’, so you
Hello Bon dia (Bon di-a) can point at what you would
Meaning ‘good day’ or hola like to see/buy and if you
(ola) meaning hello. don’t know what it’s called,
Good afternoon Bona tarda just use això, per favour.
The Mallorca Files British
(bo-a tard) For use after SPANISH detective constable Miranda
around 3pm. Hello Hola Blake and German detective Max
How are you? Uep, com Good afternoon Buenos Winter, solving island crimes for
anam? Uep (wh-ep) is very días Palma police.
common Mallorcan usage, How are you Qué tal? The Night Manager TV
a filler word used as a Or Cómo estás? With the adaptation of John Le Carré’s
interjectory ‘well’ or ‘oh’ or response Bien (good) or Muy novel, with stellar cast; there are
‘hi’. Com anam means ‘how bien (great). scenes in Deià, Port de Sóller,
is it going?’ The typical Please Por favor Palma and Pollença.
response is Bé, tot bé (Well, Thank you Gracias Love Island Reality TV set in a
all good). Yes Si Mallorcan villa in the sunshine.
Please Si us plau No No Pep Touching local IB3 TV series.
Thank you Gràcis Don’t mention it De nada Titular character has Alzheimer’s
Yes Sí Goodbye Adiós/Hasta luego disease and the series explores
No No (see you later) family dynamics and local village
life; English subtitles available on
YouTube.
LISTEN
IB3 Radio Local radio Majorca Mallorca Authors in Mallorca Terra Secreta (Maria
showcasing all things Podcast featuring news, Podcast series of del Mar Bonet)
Mallorcan. culture and events. interesting interviews Renowned folk singer-
with local author Jan songwriter from Palma
Edwards. with an illustrious
international musical
career.
31
07-get-prepared-mao6.indd 31 1/23/2023 3:49:52 PM

FANFO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
THE FOOD SCENE
Tumbet
THE FOOD SCENE

Mallorca's vibrant culinary scene ranges from inventive Michelin-
starred eateries to rustic celler dining, and plenty of fresh produce.
Mallorca caters to all culinary tastes. The the warmer months is the norm, as is eat-
island is at the same time international ing very late at night. Whether you’ve come
and outward-looking, while also remaining in search of tapas or Michelin-starred din-
local in its appetites and traditions. Veg- ing, you’re sure to find restaurants to enjoy.
ans, vegetarians and those in search of glu-
ten-free, lactose-free or dairy-free options Classic Mallorcan Fare
will be surprised to find a wide range of To enjoy traditional cooking, visit magical
choices available. This is particularly so in Es Guix, old school-style Celler Sa Premsa
Palma. For those seeking traditional fare, in Palma or the celler restaurants of Inca.
the island offers many characterful eater- Particularly cosy in the winter months, sit
ies serving fresh fish (cap roig, gallo and under the cellar arches next to the barrels
moll are all local) and hearty meat dishes and a burning fire while enjoying hearty
(eg stews, soups, frito mallorquín). dishes washed down with local wines.
For islanders, a meal is often an opportu- One of the island’s beloved chefs, Santi
nity to spend time with family and friends. Taura, has a daily cooking programme on
Food is to be savoured. The island is full of local TV that reinvents Mallorcan classics.
fantastic food markets, soulful little delis and Visit his Michelin-starred restaurant DINS
several excellent wineries. Eating alfresco in Santi Taura to sample for yourself.
FRITO MALLORQUÍN ARRÒS BRUT ENSAÏMADA

Best A hearty dish of meat ‘Dirty rice’, a hearty Thin pastry layers dusted
Mallorcan fried with potatoes, red dish made with rice, in icing sugar; often
peppers, fennel, peas, butifarrón, sobrassada, served as a breakfast
dishes chives and sometimes with a cafè amb llet
mushrooms and
fish. vegetables. (milky espresso).
32
08-food-scene-mao6.indd 32 1/23/2023 3:56:45 PM

Grapes thrive on the island, and there are ket, is a popular choice. Ca’s Patro March
many vineyard tours to choose from, par- in Deià offers beautiful waterside dining
ticularly around Binissalem. Or make like (but book ahead). There are also wonder-
PL AN YOUR TRIP
the Mallorcans and tapeo: go from bar to ful chiringuitos (beach shack cafes) and
bar sampling tapas or pintxos with a glass beachclubs dotted around the island, of-
of local vino along the way. fering relaxed beachside dining. Ponderosa
on Muro beach is very popular with locals
Vegetarians & Vegans and tourists alike. If there is a particular
Given the preponderance of fresh fruit and restaurant you are keen to visit during your
vegetables on the island, vegans and veg- stay, it is best to book well ahead, especial-
THE FOOD SCENE

etarians are well catered for. In particu- ly in the busier summer months.
lar, places like Palma, Santanyí and Sóller
all offer a wide range of options. Places of
note in Palma include Ca n’Ela near the ca-
ZIXIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
thedral, Temple Natura Café Garden, Plaer
Natural, La Mujer de Verde in Santa Cata-
lina, Mama Carmen’s and Mama Carmen’s
Coffee & Bakery, and Santosha. In Santanyí
try the lovely Grà Irish Gastropub (plant-
based, vegan and gluten-free) and in Sóller
Re:Organic offers lots of vegetarian and veg-
an options in a beautiful shaded courtyard.
Fish Restaurants
As you would expect of a Mediterranean is- F O O D & W I N E F E S T I VA L S
land, fish restaurants are a staple of coast-
Fira de la Taronja (June) Visit Sóller, Port de
al dining. Many excellent dining options
Sóller and Fornalutx for this celebration of
can be found, with gorgeous views over the
oranges and lemons, with food stalls, craft
water, in places such as Port de Sóller. Can workshops, music and a party atmosphere.
Eduardo in Palma, located above a fish mar-
Festa des Vermar (September) The Grape
Harvest Festival in Binissalem (p123) has
grape-crushing competitions, parades,
MARINA KRYUCHINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
correfoc (fire running) and a huge grape fight.

Fira de s’Oliva (November) Held in Caimari,
the Olive Fair celebrates all things olive oil.
Fira Dolç (October) Held in Esporles (p87),
this is a popular celebration of all things
sweet. Stalls line the village streets, and you
can sample the best of Mallorcan pastries
and sweet treats.
La Fira de l’Esclata-sang (November) This
festival celebrating mushrooms is held in the
little village of Manacor de la Vall. Fireworks,
food stalls, dancing and music, bonfires and a
Grilled octopus parade – all in honour of the mushroom.
Festa des Vermar (p123), Binissalem
SOBRASSADA TUMBET COCA CARQUINYOLES EMPANADES

A cured sausage Aubergines, MALLORQUINA Crunchy almond Filling savoury
made with spices, peppers and potato Crispy flat breads biscuits or cookies. pasties typically
usually spread on fried and served in with various with lamb,
bread or included in a tomato sauce with toppings; coca de pork, chicken or
Mallorcan dishes. meat or fried eggs. trempó is popular. sobrassada.
33

Specialities
Dare to Try Caragols: Snails in a garlic,
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Frito mallorquín: Flavourful fennel and chilli broth, normally

fried lamb, potatoes, liver, served with aioli.
red peppers, peas, fennel and MEALS OF A
Street Food LIFETIME
spices, sometimes with fish too.
Botifarró: Cured blood Visit the many food markets on
sausage. the island and taste the local You can take your pick
Arròs brut: The name means products on offer. In Palma, try from nine Michelin-starred
'dirty rice', named after the Mercat de l’Olivar, Mercat de restaurants on the island:
Santa Catalina and Mercat 1930 Adrián Quetglas, Andreu
THE FOOD SCENE
colour of the dish in this broth,

made with pork, rabbit and for fresh produce and street Genestra, Béns d’Avall,
vegetables. food eats. DINS, Es Fum, Andana,
Marc Fosh, VORO and
Zaranda.
For an experience
to remember, visit Sa
Foradada (p88; it’s a hike
down, or take a boat to
the cove and climb up),
for paella with an amazing
view. Alternatively, try
rustic Es Verger (p90) for a
roast lamb lunch, situated
between Alaró and the
mountaintop castle.
Arròs brut
THE YEAR IN FOOD
SPRING SUMMER AUTUMN WINTER

With the fruit trees in This is the season for Time for the grape, Now is when everyone
flower and blossom fresh figs, salads, fruit, almond and olive opts for cosy, hearty
on the almond trees, olives and cheese (try harvests and fare – lechona asada
spring is a time to pick the formatge mallorquí). mushroom-picking (roast suckling pig),
lemons and apricots. During the day, it’s too (esclata-sang). Join the sobrassada (cured pork
Wild asparagus pops up hot to cook so pack a Festa des Vermar in sausage flavoured with
in the countryside and picnic and head to the Binissalem for the grape paprika) and arròs brut;
espàrrecs (asparagus) beach. In the evenings, fight. Pomegranates are soups and stews come
and caragols (snails) eat alfresco. almost ready for picking. to the fore.
34 feature on menus. TOLOBALAGUER.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOHN NAVAJO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ZIXIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©,
JEANNE EMMEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

RIGHT: EMILY MARIE WILSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: MARCELINA ZYGULA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
THE FOOD SCENE
Wine at Es Verger (p90)
HOW Tour the Vineyards

TO… Visit the interior of the island to discover the beautiful
vineyards, and take part in a vineyard tour to sample the
local Mallorcan wines. Another well-known area, the Binissalem DO region,
includes a number of bodegas also producing quality wines.
Terraces & Vines Wine Festivals

In coastal Banyalbufar, see how the Each autumn Binissalem celebrates
vines are grown on narrow terraces the grape harvest with a riotous
carved into the landscape. This area Festa des Vermar; expect grape-
is known for the malvasia grapes. crushing, grape-throwing and
high-spirited fun.
Know Your Wines
Ask for vino tinto for red, vino blanco
for white.
BEST INTERIOR
V I N E YA R D S T O V I S I T
Vineyards to experience include Bodegas Macià
Batle in Santa María del Camí, which is a well-
established winery with tours and tastings. Y
Ramanyà is a smaller-scale winery also in Santa
ARTESIA WELLS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
María. Its tour includes lots of fascinating history

of Mallorcan wine-making with a small museum
dedicated to the same.
Binisallem is home to the award-winning José
Luis Ferrer, known for quality wines and the
largest wine cellar on the island; it’s experimental
and innovative. In a hamlet nearby is Bodegas
Biniagual, consisting of 14 houses, winery, chapel
and vinoteca, home to award-winning wine
producers with an ecological approach. Also near
Binissalem is Celler Tianna Negre, which takes
an environmentally conscious approach – making
use of solar panels and reused water irrigation
– and is known for its popular Ses Nines and
Wine barrels at Bodegas Macià Batle Randemar red.
35

KOVOP58/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
PL AN YOUR TRIP
THE OUTDOORS
Cycling, Alcúdia (p107)
THE OUTDOORS
With its stunning coastline and mountainous interior, Mallorca has
something outdoorsy for everyone. It's paradise for cyclists, hikers,
golfers, tennis and water-sports fans alike.
With 554km of coastline, and home to the back-to-nature slice of island life. Kite-surf-
Unesco Biosphere Reserve of the Serra de ing, windsurfing, diving and sailing are all
Tramuntana mountain range, Mallorca of- popular too, as is horse riding in the beau-
fers a wealth of outdoor activities to enjoy. tiful Mallorcan countryside.
While the island’s golf and tennis game is
strong (home after all to tennis star Rafael Cycling
Nadal), these days the island is particularly From daring high-speed descents to gen-
popular with cyclists, its winding mountain tle countryside cycling, has two-wheel ad-
roads with vertiginous views appealing to ventures for all abilities. The mixed terrain
experienced thrill-seekers. Hikers are spoilt and reliable climate make the island a train-
for choice with well-marked trails through ing base for professionals, and popular with
forests, mountain paths and along the coast. all levels of cyclist. Port de Pollença and Al-
If coasteering, canyoning or rock climbing cúdia make excellent bases for a cycling trip.
appeals, there are local adventure compa- Challenging but rewarding routes include Sa
nies waiting to take you out to discover this Calobra, Cap de Formentor and Puig Major.
COASTEERING DIVING BIRDWATCHING

Swim, jump, climb along Explore shipwrecks, dive Parc Natural de
Best the shoreline, discover in the turquoise waters, S’Albufera (p112) is the
of the waterfalls and caves, with or enjoy a snorkelling place to go in search of
Rest Món Aventura (p109) excursion. Book with birdwatching and wildlife
or Mallorca Mountains Scuba Mallorca (p102) or in the wetlands.
(p112). Big Blue Diving (p71).
36
09-outdoors-mao6.indd 36 1/26/2023 4:12:41 PM

FA M I LY A DV E N T U R E S
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Enjoy a horse riding camp beach stops along the way. Jungle Parc (p71) is excellent
(p86) at La Gubia, saddling Explore some of Mallorca’s for younger kids, and for older
up by day to explore the magical cave systems – kids there is Forestal Park,
Tramuntana countryside trails. Coves del Drac (p141) is the with Mallorca’s longest zipline.
Kids go wild for the island's best known, but the Coves Little ones keen to learn to
water parks (p71, p109). de Génova (p71) and the Artà surf? Surf school Bonaona
Hire bikes and cycle the caves are also worth visiting. (p65) has you covered with
seafront promenade (p70) Ziplining and adventure surfing, SUP, skateboarding
THE OUTDOORS
around the Badia de Palma with climbing is always fun – Junior and more, all day long.
Hiking
highest points on the island. Stunning sea
Best enjoyed in the cooler spring and au- views over orange and olive groves await
tumn months, there are hundreds of hiking those interested in following the GR221 Dry
routes, suitable for all levels of experience. Stone Route, a long-distance route that can
Sóller, surrounded by the Tramuntana be broken into smaller sections. Mountain
mountains, is a popular base for hikers refuges along the way provide simple shel-
and has a wide variety of both easy routes ter for overnight stays. An easier midlevel
through stunning countryside and more hike is to the Alaró castle, which sits atop
challenging hikes. For hardcore climbers, the Puig d’Alaró mountain. The atmospheric
Escorca to the Torrent de Pareis Gorge is castle ruins, dating back originally to Moor-
a challenging five-hour hike with plenty ish times, then rebuilt in the 15th century,
of scrambling. The circular Lluc offer panoramic views of the plains, sea
Monastery to Puig de Mas- and mountains. Estellencs to Puig de
sanella route takes eight Galatzó is another charming route
hours, and offers spectac- from a village and heads up to the
ular views from one of the BEST SPOTS peak in a two-hour hike (one way).
For the best outdoor Sailing

maps and routes, see With its sheltered harbours, rocky
KVN1777/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
the map on p38.

coastline and fine sailing conditions,
Mallorca attracts sailing enthusiasts
from around the world. The Real Club
Náutico de Palma organises many regattas
and events during the sailing season. Events
such as the Princesa Sofia Regata, which
selects for the Olympics, draws many par-
ticipants. Others include the popular Copa
del Rey Regata, and the Superyacht Cup re-
gatta held in June. You can learn to sail at
several schools in Palma or in Alcúdia, and
the National Sailing School at Port Calano-
Sa Calobra (p81) va offers a wide range of beginner courses.
CLIMBING CLIFF JUMPING PARAGLIDING INLINE SKATING

With exhilarating If you know what you’re Take to the sky with Popular along the long
climbing and spectacular doing, spots like Cala a paragliding trip in sea promenade in Badia
panoramic views, areas Varques (p141) are Alcúdia (p107) or an de Palma (p70); get your
such as Sa Gubia (p78) popular for this adrenaline early-morning hot-air skates at RollandRoll,
offer a wide range of sport. Go with an expert balloon experience. Devil Skate Shop or
challenging climbing. guide, and stay safe. ISLIDERS.
37

ACTION AREAS Cala
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Vice
Where to find Mallorca's Po
best outdoor activities. Poll
# Pol
Ù
Sa M
Sa Calobra
1 v
#
Ù
Cala Ù# # #
4
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ACTION AREAS
Lluc
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v#
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Cycling Sa Ràpita
Salin
1 Badia de Palma route (p70)
2 Coll d’Honor loop (p122)
3 Llevant Natural Park (p136)
4 Sa Calobra (p90)
5 Cap de Formentor (p104) Hiking
C
1 Torrent de Pareis Gorge
Ses
(p37)
2 Illa de Cabrera (p156)
3 La Trapa loop (p94) Illa des
4 Sóller to Cala Deià (p78) Conills
5 GR221 Dry Stone Route
Mediterranean Illa de
Sea (Andratx to Pollença; p95) Cabrera # 2 v
Parc Nacional
Arxipèlag de
38 Cabrera

Cap de
Ca'n 5 Formentor
#
Cala Sant Es Faro
PL AN YOUR TRIP
Vicenç
#
Ù
#
Ù Ą
Port de Ù#
Pollença # 3 Badia de Sailing
# Pollença
Ù
ł Pollença 1 Palma (p59)
Sa Marina Ù# # Bonaire
Ù
2 Port Calanova (p59)
Alcúdia #
Port d’Alcúdia (p109)
Alcanada 3
5#
# 4 Ù# Ù# 4 Port de Pollença (p104)
Port
ł d'Alcúdia Badia
ACTION AREAS
d'Alcúdia
Platges Cap
Ferrutx S'Arenal et
#
Ù
de Mallorca
oscari Sa# Pobla des Verger
#
Ù Ca'n Ù# #
Ù
Picafort Colònia de Ą
Parc Natural de la
#
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Sant Pere Betlem #3 Península de Llevant

Son Serra
Muro Cala
Ù
# #
Ù
#
Son
#
Ù #
Ù Ù
de Marina S'Estanyol
Morell Ratjada Punta de
#
Ù #
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Ses Vell Capdepera Ù# Ù#
# Capdepera
Pastoras
#
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Santa Son Artà # Son Moll
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# #
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stitx Son Font de
Ù
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les #
Ù
Sineu #
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Petra Sant Llorenç Ù#
d'es Cardassa Son Cala Bona
#
Ù #
Ù
na SantÙ# Joan
Carrio #
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#
Ù
#
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#
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Ù
5 Cristo
#
da #
Ù
# Porreres Porto Cristo

Novo Rock Climbing
jor 1 S'estret, near Valldemossa
# Felanitx Cales de (p84)
Mallorca
#
Ù
2 Sa Gubia (p78)
Ca'n Roig 3 Puig de Garrafa, near
#
Campos #
Ù
Portocolom
# Andratx (p91)
S'Horta
#
Ù
Ù
# Sa Punta 4 Cala Serena, Cala d'Or
Ù
#
S'Alqueria Ù# Calonge # (p154)

4 5 Cova del Diablo, Porto
Blanca
Santanyí
#
Cala d'Or Cristo (p141)
a Ses #
Ù
Salines
#
Ù
Portopetro
Ù
# Ù
#
Llombards # #
Ù
1 Cala
Figuera
Cap de Snorkelling & Diving

Ses Salines 1 Cala Santanyí (p149)
2 Port de Sóller (p78)
3 Platje de Mago (p91)
la des
onills 4 Sant Elm (p91)
5 Port d’Alcúdia (p109)
2 v
#
ional
ag de e 00 20 km
ra 10 miles 39

THE GUIDE
40
10-guide-opener-mao6.indd 40 1/23/2023 4:41:47 PM

MALLORCA
THE GUIDE
THE GUIDE
Northern
Mallorca,
p96
Western
Mallorca,
p73
The Interior,
p115
Eastern
Palma & Badia Mallorca,
de Palma, p128
p42
Chapters in this section

are organised by hubs and
their surrounding areas. Southern
Mallorca,
We see the hub as your p143
base in the destination,
where you’ll find unique
experiences, local insights,
insider tips and expert
recommendations. It’s
also your gateway to the
surrounding area, where
you’ll see what and how
much you can do from
there.
Es Pontàs (p143)
AVANT VISUAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
41
10-guide-opener-mao6.indd 41 1/23/2023 4:41:47 PM

PALMA
THE GUIDE
& BADIA
DE PALMA
PALMA & BADIA DE PALMA
AT THE HEART OF THE MEDITERRANEAN

This cosmopolitan city by the sea, surrounded by a
stunning natural landscape, draws an international crowd
attracted to its architecture, art and culture.
Palma, originally the site of a Talayotic Palma has a sophisticated restaurant
settlement before passing through Roman, scene and lively nightlife. It is a city of
Vandal, Byzantine, Muslim and Christian culture with exhibitions, theatre, opera,
hands, has long been at the crossroads of an annual book fair and a high-profile in-
the Mediterranean. It's a fact re- ternational film festival. Festivals
MISTERVLAD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
flected in the diverse archi- year-round bring out the locals
tectural, cultural, linguistic to celebrate island life.
and culinary influences Situated on the glorious
visible today. sweep of the Badia de Pal-
With imposing city ma, the city’s marinas
walls, built to protect and harbours are filled
against invading pi- with yachts and llaüts
rate raids, a remark- (traditional Mallorcan
able Gothic cathedral fishing boats), and major
and an impressive royal sailing regattas bring peo-
palace shaping the city sky- ple from spring to autumn.
line, Palma is a joy to walk Wealthy residential enclaves
around. It is packed mazelike, rub shoulders with the brasher
narrow, cobbled lanes and houses in beach resorts on the Badia, and the
ochre, muted-red and sand tones, with pret- city is circled by the verdant Tramuntana
ty ironwork balconies and brightly paint- mountains to the north and the sparkling
ed green shutters, and shady patios full of Mediterranean to the south.
plants and flowers. The streets are lined With a population of 477,000 that swells
with bookshops, art galleries, antique shops, in the summer season as tourists throng
boutiques and cafes, all spilling out into the island, Palma still feels relatively small,
shady squares and palm tree–lined avenues. and is reasonably easy to explore.
THE MAIN AREAS

CENTRAL PALMA SANTA CATALINA BADIA DE PALMA
Cultural Old Town and more. Bohemian former sailors’ Sweeping bay on the city
p48 quarter. p60 outskirts. p65
42
11-palma-badia-de-palma-mao6.indd 42 1/27/2023 11:38:19 AM

THE GUIDE
BALATE DORIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
La Seu (p49)
43

Central
Santa
Palma
Catalina p48
THE GUIDE
p60 #
Palma
Palm
Paala
P lau de
Palau de
ll'A
' lm
'Al udda
daiinna
l'Almudaina EEls
Ells Ba
ls Banys
y
ys
Bellve
v r
ve
Bellver Q
C stl
Ca te
tl
Castle Y I ÀÀrrraabs
Àrabs
Laa Seu
Seu
Q
P
Po rtititit
Portitxolitx
txo
x ol ħ
Ù
#
Terreno
Terrreno
ħ Es
E Mo
M olliin
inar
Molinar
Mollinar Ù#
Es Molinar
#
Ù
Porto
P
Porto
t Pi
to
METRO & TRAIN

Palma’s metro system serves eight stops
within the city and trains run from the main
station to various points around the island.
The smaller train station nearby is the
departure point for the beautiful old train
that runs to Sóller through the mountain
tunnels a few times a day. For timetables
and route maps, see tib.org.
WALK
Palma is a delight to explore by foot. Wear
comfortable walking shoes for the cobbled Badi
lanes and steps. Get lost in the warren of Pall
P
Pa
streets in the Old Town or in Santa Catalina
and you'll discover wonderful sea views
and fascinating architecture.
BUS
To travel to the resorts or towns on the
outskirts of Palma, there is a good network
of city buses. See tib.org for routes and
timetables.
44 e00 2 km
1 mile

Find Your Way
THE GUIDE
Palma is relatively easy to navigate by walking. To the south you’ll
always find the sea, and you can orient yourself using landmarks
such as the cathedral, which dominates the city skyline, or the
main arterial routes such as La Rambla, Passeig d'es Born and

Avinguda de Jaume III.
nar Ù#
nar
#
Ù
Ciutat
Jardí Palma de
Mallorca
Badia de Airport
Palma ĵ
p65
#
Ù
Ca'n
Pastilla
ħ
Ca'n
C
Ca ' Pa
'n P
Pastilla
stititililllaa
Badia de
Palma
P
Palma
#
Ù
Las
Maravil
Maravillas
FROM THE AIRPORT

From the taxi rank to the centre is a short
trip (8km), costing around €20. Charges
increase on weekends and at night. The
1 bus runs to and from the airport to Palma
every 15 minutes. Have cash to hand for
your ticket. Car hire is also available in the
airport terminal.
S'Arena
S'Arenal
#
Ù
ħ S'A
' re
'Ar nal
S'Arenal 45

DAY 1
Plan Your
THE GUIDE
Morning
Days
● Fuel up with a cafè amb llet
(milky espresso) and an ensaïmada
pastry at one of the terrace cafes
on Passeig d’es Born before
Explore the Old Town streets, visiting the Gothic cathedral La
shop around the Passeig
Seu (p49) and neighbouring Palau

d’es Born, enjoy lunch by the de l’Almudaina (p48). Hit pause in
waterfront and while away the the verdant gardens of the Jardí
afternoon in art galleries and del Bisbe (p52).
museums. Evenings are for
bohemian Santa Catalina. Afternoon
● After lunch in the Old Town,
visit Els Banys Àrabs (p48) and
the nearby Museu de Mallorca
(p52). Wander the Old Town (p52),
browse in the bookshops and go
patio spotting – many of the old
mansion houses offer glimpses of
courtyards full of plants.
Evening
TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
● Stroll along the city walls, Dalt

Murada (p52), and check out the
harbour views at sunset. Eat at
one of the many fabulous Palma
restaurants (p55).
Passeig d’es Born
YOU’LL ALSO
WANT TO... EXPLORE TAKE A VISIT THE
Discover more of BELLVER CASTLE BOAT TRIP AQUARIUM
Palma’s history with a Dive into the past by See the island from the Marvel at the fish in
visit to Bellver Castle, exploring the castle Mediterranean sea with Palma Aquarium,
relax in a garden or and soaking up the a boat excursion in the which has a strong
swim with sharks at atmosphere in the Badia. emphasis on marine
the aquarium. exhibition rooms. conservation.
46
ROLF E STAERK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MICKES PHOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, DAN RATA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

DAY 2 DAY 3
THE GUIDE
Morning Morning
● Explore the markets (p58) of ● Start the day with a walk along
Palma – Mercat de l'Olivar near the promenade to Portixol (p68), a
Plaça de Espanya or the market pretty harbour with pastel-painted
in Santa Catalina – to sample fishers’ cottages. Try a sailing
fresh food and local produce in lesson or have lunch at stylish

an atmospheric setting. Visit Es Portixol Boutique Hotel (p69) or
Baluard art gallery (p53) for a fix one of the restaurants further along
of contemporary art. the promenade.
Afternoon Afternoon
● Visit the Fundació Miró ● Not had enough of a water
Mallorca (p53) for a wonderful sports fix? Head further round
collection of the painter’s work and to Ca’n Pastilla (p65) to have
to visit his former art studio. Head an afternoon on the beach
to one of the beach clubs (p69) and try surfing, windsurfing or
– Purobeach or Balneario Illetes – paddleboarding. Or take to the
both in pretty Illetes, for lunch by streets off Passeig d’es Born for
the sea in a pretty cove. some souvenir shopping (p57).
Evening Evening
● Circle back to Santa Catalina ● Drop into one of the city’s
to eat at one of the popular rooftop bars (p56) to catch the
restaurants in the former sailors’ sunset, go for a leisurely paseo
quarter. Hit the Passeig Marítim along Passeig d’es Born like the
(p57) for nightlife, or check out a locals do and then seek out live
concert at the Auditòrium (p53). music (p57) in Santa Catalina.
ENJOY THE TRAVEL DISCOVER CYCLE THE BADIA

GARDENS BACK IN TIME ANCIENT CAVES DE PALMA ROUTE
Feel the echoes of Visit Pueblo Español Explore 1km of Hire a bicycle and ride
Moorish times in S’Hort with its reproductions limestone galleries the 16km cycling and
del Rei, a beautiful of key architectural deep below the surface skating path around
shady spot with water buildings from around at the Coves de the Badia de Palma.
features. Spain. Génova.
47
LUNAMARINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ANTONIO GRAVANTE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ELENACHAYKINAPHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK©, ALEXIALEX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

CENTRAL PALMA
CULTURAL OLD TOWN AND MORE
THE GUIDE
Central Palma is a walkable part of the city with the Old Town
at its heart, where you will find its iconic La Seu cathedral. El- GETTING ORIENTATED
ements of the city's Roman and Byzantine past can be found
Framed by the Dalt Murada
in the Museu de Mallorca, and its Moorish past in Els Banys (city walls) at the sea,
Àrabs and the soaring Palau de l’Almudaina. Palma's Old Town includes
Vestiges of Renaissance and baroque architectural influ- the neighbourhoods of Sa
ences are found in churches and buildings such as Basilica Gerreria, Sa Portella and
de Sant Francesc and Casa Balaguer, along with many beau- Sa Calatrava to the east
tiful examples of the Modernista legacy. and is bordered by Es Puig
de Sant Pere to the west.
Walk around the narrow Old Town streets and hear the mix The arterial Passeig d’es
of Mallorquin and Spanish spoken. This part of the city is cos- Born and La Rambla pass
mopolitan, energetic and creative, spilling over with art galler- through the centre.
ies, quirky bars, sophisticated shopping options and busy cafes.
There is plenty of theatre, music, opera or art to choose from,
and festivals are a frequent feature of life here.
TOP LEFT: GP PHOTOTRENDS/SHUTTERSTOCK © BOTTOM RIGHT: JOAN_BAUTISTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Els Banys
Àrabs
AR ABIC BATHS
Visit Els Banys Àrabs in the

Old Town. Built in Moorish
times, you can see the
caldarium (hot bath) and
tepidarium (warm bath),
with its domed roof and
columns. The bathhouse
was an essential meeting
place and a place of
tranquillity and serenity,
Palau de l’Almudaina which is echoed in the
peaceful courtyard
garden.
Palau de l’Almudaina
THE ROYAL PAL ACE
The Royal Palace was originally of Roman origin, then a Muslim

alcázar (fortified palace) until it was rebuilt in 1309 by King James II.
It became the royal court in the 14th century, and even today it is an
official summer residence for the Spanish royal family. The entrance,
just in front of the cathedral, leads into the ground floors featuring
medieval design and decoration. Step out onto the terrace for views
of the bay and the mountains behind the city. The upper floors have
decorations from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. Of particular interest
is the small chapel, Capella de Sant'Anna. Top tip: buy tickets online to
Els Banys Àrabs
48 avoid lengthy queues.

TOP RIGHT: VENTURA/SHUTTERSTOCK © BOTTOM RIGHT: BORIS STROUJKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
La Seu
PA L M A´S CAT H E D R A L
Palma’s Gothic cathedral,
La Seu, is also known as
Catedral de la Luz
(Cathedral of Light) for its

59 stained-glass windows
and its emblematic five
stained-glass wheel
windows. Originally the
site of the mosque, the
cathedral has one of the
highest naves in Europe,
reaching 45m. Its largest
rose (wheel) window, the
ojo gótico, stretches 14m
across and bathes the
cathedral in light. The
huge doorway, Portal de
El Mirador, reaches 15m
high, and the cathedral
has nine bells, all of
different sizes and names.
The spectacular interior
was renovated by famed
architect Antoni Gaudí
Bellver Castle in the early 20th century.
Prebook a guided terrace
tour for an incredible
panoramic view over the
city.
Bellver Castle
H I STO RY O N T H E H I L L
Situated on a forested hilltop 3km west of the centre of Palma,
overlooking the Badia de Palma,the imposing Gothic-style
Bellver Castle was built for James II in 1311.
It is a circular stone fortress, two storeys tall, with an inner yard with
arches and a well. There are several round towers attached to its
exterior, including the Torre del Homenaje, which is connected by a
high bridge over the moat that surrounded the base of the castle.
The castle served as the residence of the Mallorcan kings, later
becoming a military prison, until finally in 1976 it became the Museu
d’Historia de la Ciutat (History Museum). Learn about Palma’s Roman,
Moorish and Christian past from the museum displays. There is also
an interesting photographic exhibition charting the development of
tourism on the island from the 1960s. La Seu
Today the castle is often used for concerts or cultural events. The
forested area surrounding it makes for pleasant walks and is a picnic
spot with 360-degree views.
49

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THE GUIDE
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51

NAEBLYS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
BEST MUSEUMS
Museu de Mallorca
A history overview of
Palma and Mallorca, Sert Studio at Fundació Miró Mallorca
with artefacts from
Talayotic, Roman,
Byzantine and Moorish
times. M O R E I N C E N T R A L PA L M A
Pueblo Español
A reproduction of many
buildings in various
architectural styles, all
Energetic Old Town
E X PLO R E T H E H I STO R I C C E N T R E
in one site.
Museu d’Historia de Start from Parc de la Mar to view the cathedral and Pa-
la Ciutat lau de l’Almudaina from across the lake. Pass the Arc de sa
The 14th-century Drassana, the one-time Moorish seaward entrance to the al-
Gothic Bellver Castle cázar, as you head to the King’s Garden, S’Hort del Rei. This
is home to the city’s
history museum.
small but charming Moorish-style garden has a water feature.
Steps take you up to the cathedral and entrance to the Pa-
Castillo de San lau de l’Almudaina (p48). Walk along the Dalt Murada city
Carlos
Imposing fortress by walls and enjoy the views over Parc de la Mar and the sea be-
the sea that has served yond. Continue on to the medieval gateway of Sa Portella,
as a hospital, political once the Jewish quarter of the Old Town.
prison and now as Continue up past the former mansions and courtyards of
a military museum
documenting the Cal Marquès de la Torre, Can Espanya-Serra and Can
island's military history Salas, all offering tantalising patio glimpses.
from the Middle Ages to Nearby is Jardí del Bisbe, a pretty garden in the heart of the
the 20th century. Old Town. Further up Carrer de Ca’n Angluda is Can Marquès,
WHERE TO FIND INTERESTING BUILDINGS
Església del Monti-Sion Sa Llotja Casal Solleric

Once the Jewish synagogue, Gothic 15th-century sandstone Interesting example of an 18th-
now blinged out in baroque building, once a merchants’ century mansion house with
style. stock exchange, now housing grand courtyard. Now a cultural
temporary exhibitions. centre with art exhibitions.
52

a grand mansion house. You come now to another medieval
gateway, Porta de l’Almudaina, once part of the Roman walls.
Plaça de Santa Eulàlia is a pleasant shady spot to stop
for lunch or a drink, by the church of the same name, or con-
tinue a little further passing Can Vivot and Can Catlar del I LIVE HERE:
THE GUIDE
Llorer, one of the oldest Gothic patios in Palma. EMIFF
Finish up at Ca’n Joan de S’Aigo. This Palma institution
is one of the oldest chocolaterías in all of Europe.
Cultural City
A L L T H I N G S A RT A N D C U LT U R E
Mallorca-raised
Palma has a dynamic culture scene year-round – whether the- filmmaker and actress

atre, opera, concerts, dance, recitals, film festivals, book fairs Sandra Lipski is the
and book clubs, art galleries, literary happenings, cinemas, arts founder and director
events, short courses, philosophy debates or live music, there of Evolution Mallorca
is something for all tastes. Visit palmacultura.cat for listings International Film
of events and courses happening around town. Festival (EMIFF), which
A few of the best cultural spaces include CaixaForum, takes place every
which hosts interesting temporary exhibitions alongside art October in Palma.
from the island; Casa Solleric, for thought-provoking art in- evolutionfilmfestival.
stallations; Es Baluard, for contemporary art; Teatre Mu- com
nicipal Mar i Terra, for theatre in Spanish or Catalan, in
“I have a deep love for
Santa Catalina; Teatro Principal, for opera, concerts, dance
Mallorca and Mi Isla
and theatre; and the Auditòrium, which offers a vibrant pro- (My Island), my short
gramme of music concerts and arts events. film, was a love letter
The city has plenty of gorgeous bookshops to browse and to the island. Inspired
book clubs to join (La Salina and Come In Bookshop have by my own upbringing
clubs in English). Cultural organisation Mallorca Literària, here and my love for
based in Binissalem, runs a fantastic programme of literary Mallorca's people
events, including WoW (Walking on Words). These guided and culture, it's about
walking tours take in the literary and cultural highlights of coming home and
Palma and the rest of the island. re-evaluating what
Palma is full of art galleries, including Fundació Miró is important in life. I
Mallorca and Fundación Juan March, which has a con- play Sammy and my
temporary collection including Miró, Picasso, Juan Gris and daughter plays Alma in
the film. My husband
Dalí. The streets around Passeig d’es Born house lots of won-
was the DP – it's a
derful art galleries, and each year the Nit de l’Art (Night of family affair! We shot
Art) focuses on celebrating art across the city with night-time the film in some of the
openings and events and a cultural programme. most beautiful places
Festivals take place year-round in Palma, often with work- on the island like Port
shops for children and adults alike, whether on crafts, writ- de Sóller. Mallorca is a
ing or dance. filmmakers' paradise
Each year the Evolution Film Festival brings internation- on all levels: locations,
al filmmakers to the island in a celebration of all things film crew and equipment.
with red-carpet events, screenings and awards. And it's all here, ready
to use.”
WHERE TO FIND ART GALLERIES
Fundació Miró Mallorca Es Baluard Museu de Art Museu Fundación Juan March
Wonderful collection of Joan Contemporani Strong collection of work by
Miró’s work and access to his Superb collection of Spanish artists, alongside
two studios; located by Cala contemporary art, gallery shop events, education and
Major. and cafe with terrace on site. exhibition programming.
53

The Nit de Sant Joan is celebrated on 23 June, with locals
WE LIVE HERE: EL dressed as dimonis, fire running (correfoc), live music and
BAZAR DEL LIBRO fireworks, on the shortest night of the year. Make like the lo-
cals and head to Parc de la Mar and the seafront to follow
the festivities.
THE GUIDE
For current listings see Youthing (youthing.es), Digame

(digamemallorca.com) or See Mallorca (seemallorca.com).
Architecture in Palma
Cati Bauzà and M U ST-S E E B U I L D I N G S
Juano Antonio
Cantarellas became Sitting as it does at the crossroads of the Mediterranean,
booksellers when and long considered an important trade routes, it is unsur-
they took on El Bazar prising that Palma’s ever-changing history is reflected in its
del Libro, Palma´s architecture.
oldest secondhand Roman times are visible in parts of the city walls; the Moor-
bookshop, wanting ish past is reflected in the portadas (gateways) of the Old
to protect and retain Town and in sites such as Els Banys Àrabs (p48); and the
this disappearing part Renaissance, Gothic and baroque periods are all to be found
of Palma´s literary in the many churches and mansion houses of the city. Exam-
history.
ples include the grand Sa Llotja (15th-century Gothic) and
@elbazardellibro
Basílica Sant Francesc (Gothic cloister and baroque facade).
In the early 20th century Antoni Gaudí famously worked
“The locale dates on the renovation of the interior of La Seu (p49), Palma’s
from 1870, starting vast cathedral, which blends Gothic, Renaissance, baroque
life as Bodega
and Modernista styles, all on the site of the former mosque.
Enderrocat, and
becoming El Bazar del
One of the most distinctive architectural trends in Palma is
Libro in 1978. We took that of the Modernista style. Fine examples include El Águi-
on the new adventure la and Can Forteza Rey in the centre of the city.
of reforming the For fans of architecture and history, the city holds an Open
bookshop in 2011, House event (openhousepalma.org) each year when you can
and have worked visit buildings of note (including many not usually open to
to keep its historic the public). Book online for those you are most interested in
feeling – with books seeing as the events are popular. There is a talks programme
dating back many as well. Don’t miss the underground tunnels, the Parliament
centuries – along with building and the College of Architectural Studies (Collegi Ofi-
posters, photographs, cial d’Arquitectes).
records, sculptures,
stamps, whole worlds
of memories. Pull Palma for Booklovers
up a seat at the cafe L I T E R A RY C I T Y
bar counter with a Full of interesting bookshops and with a rich literary histo-
book to read, and if ry, Palma makes for an enjoyable bookish break. Writers such
you're lucky you'll find as Julio Cortázar, Rubén Dario, Jorge Luis Borges, Albert
someone playing the
Camus and DH Lawrence all came and found inspiration in
piano. Everything is a
this city at the heart of the Mediterranean. Writer and poet
treasure to someone.”
WHERE TO FIND SMART STAYS
Hotel Antigua Palma – Sant Francesc Hotel Singular Concepció by Nobis

Casa Noble Five-star haven, soothing Upmarket, stylish 16th-century
Five-star, elegant, understated decor, excellent restaurant, renovated mansion house with
in old Jewish Quarter near Els rooftop bar and pool, rooftop pool, restaurant and
Banys Àrabs. €€€ treatment rooms and gym. €€€ bar. €€€
54

THE GUIDE
BEST FINE DINING
RESTAURANTS
DINS Santi Taura

Traditional Mallorcan
cooking with a twist
Can Forteza Rey
in this adults-only
restaurant by popular
local chef Santi Taura.
Robert Graves lived in nearby Deià and was a frequent visi- €€€
tor to Palma, coming weekly to the post office to pick up let- Andana
ters and parcels. It was Gertrude Stein, who lived for a time Michelin-starred chef
in the El Terreno neighbourhood, who recommended the is- Maca De Castro’s
new venture with km0
land to Graves. sourcing, growing
Bookshops to browse in include La Casa del Libro, Rata produce on site in the
Corner, Libreria Drac Magic and Biblioteca de Babel heart of Palma. €€
(which has a cafe as well). Marc Fosh
For secondhand gems, visit El Bazar del Libro, near Plaça This Michelin-star
de Cort, an atmospheric bookshop with a bar and a piano for restaurant is a popular
impromptu music sessions. For books in English, or to join choice in the heart of
the Old Town. €€€
an English-speaking book club, visit Come In Bookshop or
international bookshop La Salina, in Santa Catalina (La Sa- Adrian Quetglas
Michelin-star
lina also has a gorgeous section for kids). There is a wonder- restaurant offering
ful art-themed bookshop just by the entrance to CaixaForum. beautifully presented
Mallorca Literària organises an events programme of fine dining. €€
literary talks and happenings around the island, including Tast Club
Palma. Details of book launches and book clubs are in the mag- Atmospheric and
azines that list events. The annual book fair sees La Rambla hidden away, quality
food with excellent
fill with stalls from the bookshops and a vibrant programme service. €€
of author events.
WHERE TO FIND LGBTIQ+ BARS
The2 Palma La Dama de Ella Bar Michel

Friendly bar with DJs, Tapas cafe, with bar open late. Tapas, music, friendly
cocktails, drag show. (@ladamadeella) atmosphere in El Terreno.
(@the2palma) (@bar_michel)
55

CHRISTIAN RUEGER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
BEST ROOFTOP
BARS &
RESTAURANTS
Sky Bar, Hotel Hostal

Cuba
In Santa Catalina,
historic building with
incredible views, both
for breakfast or at
night, looking out over
the harbour.
49 Steps Palma
Up the steps from Moll
Vell, large terrace
overlooking the
yachts, perfect for a
sundowner. Seafood at Mercat de l’Olivar
Rooftop El Llorenç
Smart, adults-only
restaurant in the hotel
of the same name. A Mediterranean Feast
D I N I N G A N D DA N C I N G T H E N I G H T AWAY
Singular Rooftop
Terrace Palma has an incredible food scene – from a plethora of Michelin-
Beautifully designed starred restaurants for fine dining, to excellent restaurants
hotel space in the
Old Town, part of
offering international cuisine from around the world, to tra-
Sant Francesc Hotel ditional Mallorcan cooking in authentic cellar restaurants.
Singular. Vegans, vegetarians and those seeking gluten-free alter-
Terrace of the natives are also well catered for here. One of the best is the
Auditòrium smart Botànic restaurant, which offers plant-forward dining
Passeig Marítim with 0km local produce in the heart of the city.
night-time views of Island cuisine is based on a Mediterranean diet of freshly
the marina from the
terrace bar for drinks in sourced produce and the food market of Santa Catalina and
the intervals or pre- or Mercat de l’Olivar make for a fantastic morning browsing
post-concert. stalls and tasting local offerings.
WHERE TO FIND ICE CREAM
Rivareno Heladería Can Miquel Gelateria Dolce Freddo Ice Cream

Very popular Italian-style Old-school ice cream, wide Italian (ma certo!); delicious ice
gelato, made on site next to variety of flavours, popular cream with vegan options.
Sa Llotja. with locals.
56

Being next to the sea, it’s not surprising that seafood restau-
rants are popular, and some of the best can be found around
the Badia de Palma.
Cafe culture is important here. Visit old-fashioned institu-
tions such as Ca’n Joan de s’Aigo, a centuries-old chocolat-
THE GUIDE
ería; Forn Fondo, for classic Mallorcan pastries and confec-
tionery; or pretty Forn des Teatre (now home to Fornet de
la Soca), one of the most-photographed shopfronts in Palma. BEST STAYS FOR
Palma nightlife covers all bases – from the sophisticated to FAMILIES
raucous pub crawls. Start your evening with a vermut (wine
flavoured with spices and herbs) and tapas in La Vermute- Portixol Hotel
ria Rosa. Try cocktails and tapas at Abaco, a cocktail bar Super stylish with a
gorgeous pool, and
in a 16th-century former palace, or ever-popular bars Gib-

close to the beach
son and Nicolas.
and Portixol harbour.
Enjoy live music at eclectic Novo Café Lisboa or Blue Jazz Get a room with a sea
Club, both in Santa Catalina, or dance the evening away at a view and terrace. €€€
beach club such as Purobeach in Illetes. Hotel Hostal Cuba
St Regis Mardavall
in Santa Catalina has a roof terrace bar (Sky Bar) and the area
Resort, Portals Nous
is full of late-night bars – spare a thought for the residents Five-star luxury, the
though. Passeig Marítim is home to some of the larger clubs hotel has Explorers
and the Auditòrium hosts regular music events. Clubs catering to kids
aged three to 12 with
Little Adventures activity programmes,
PA L M A W I T H K I D S swimming and golf
lessons, and it has its
Palma is a great city for families. There are family-friendly own restaurant. Family
hotels, gorgeous beaches and a wide range of activities in the rooms available. €€€
city or nearby to entertain kids of all ages, and the culture is
Melia Palma Marina
family-oriented and welcoming towards children.
Good value for
Palma Aquarium (p65) is a magical place to visit, with hun- money in a central
dreds of species and a giant shark tank. There is a strong em- Palma location by
phasis on ocean and marine-life conservation. Once a month, the Passeig Marítim.
there is a ‘Shark Sleepover’ for kids. Another rainy-day option Breakfast buffet and
is Palma Jump, with giant trampolines and obstacle cours- tapas restaurant.
es, or try Indoorwall Mallorca for climbing adventures. On Excellent Italian
fair-weather days there are also adventure companies who will restaurant close by.
organise climbing adventures for kids outdoors. Pool and spa. €€
Other outdoor options include Jungle Parc (two adventure
rope parks with ziplines); Bellver Castle (p49), a grand cir-
cular castle in pretty parkland on a hill overlooking the city
and bay below (also a good picnic spot); Castillo de San Car-
los (p52; a fortress by the sea); or exploring the Dalt Mu-
rada, the Old Town city walls. The terrace of Es Baluard
(p52) has sculptures that appeal to kids (and there’s a cafe
here). There are also great play parks. Parque de la Feixina
WHERE TO FIND SOUVENIRS
Colmad Santo Domingo Carmina Tipika

Local food products. Handcrafted shoes. Local crafts and gastronomy.
57

nearby is good for little ones, and there’s an excellent play
BEST FOOD park in Parc de la Mar below the cathedral.
MARKETS If you have a young artist in the family, Fundació Miró
Mallorca (p53) could prove a hit. It's full of vibrant art and
Mercat de l’Olivar the artist’s studio may inspire creative minds.
THE GUIDE
This busy food market Family feeling active? Why not hire inline skates or bikes
near Plaça d’Espanya (Nano Bikes and Palma Bike and Go rent out bikes with
has a relaxed child seats or buggies) and glide or ride along the seafront
atmosphere. Dine-in promenade that arches round the bay (see p70).
option for grilled fish, Or you could just spend a day (or several!) at the beach. Pal-
platters of meat and
ma has good city beaches, and the bay has many golden-sand
tapas.
beaches, and hidden coves and inlets to discover (see p71).
Mercat de There are water-sports options aplenty – Bonaona Surf School
Santa Catalina in Ca’n Pastilla (p65) will have kids surfing, paddleboarding
Flowers, fruit and
or windsurfing in no time at all, or they can learn to sail with
food from around
the National Sailing School at Port Calanova.
the world. Stop
at convival Bar Festivals often have workshops or events for children too,
Joan Frau for frito so check out the local listings before your visit.
mallorquín (fried lamb
offal and vegetables), Nature Near the City
paella or croquettes, G R E E N ZO N ES I N A N D A RO U N D PA L M A
or sample sushi from
Arume. Palma has several parks and green spaces within the city it-
self: S’Hort del Rei by the cathedral; the Jardí del Bisbe
Mercat 1930
in the Old Town; and the Jardines de Marivent (part of the
On Passeig Marítim
Royal summer residence but open most of the year to the pub-
this gastronomic
market serves lic to enjoy), a lush, beautifully maintained, shady garden by
international food the Marivent Palace in Cala Major. See the Miró bronze sculp-
inspired by a love of tures dotted about the garden – Miró’s former studio and the
travel and different Fundació Miró Mallorca (p53) is nearby. The surroundings
cultures. of Bellver Castle (p49) on the hill overlooking Palma also
give access to green spaces and forest.
There is work under way to develop many more green spaces
in and around the city with new zonas verdes (green zones)
being proposed. If you are in search of something wilder, why
not visit La Reserva Park in the Serra de Tramuntana. This
nature park, only a 30-minute drive from the centre of Pal-
ma, offers hiking in the mountains, adventure activities,
swimming under waterfalls, and getting up close with eag
les and bears. Located in Puigpunyent, near to the pretty
village of Galilea, Reserva Park takes in animals in need of
shelter to offer them a protected environment. There are var-
ious sessions available on site – from working with the bee-
hives, to animal encounters, to environmental tutorials on
birds of prey, all in a pristine natural setting.
Sailing in Palma
GASTON PICCINETTI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
YACHTING EVENTS
February April April/May

V Copa del Mediterráneo – Princesa Sofia Regata and La Palma International Boat Show
Puerto Portals. Ruta de la Sal. and Palma Superyacht Village.
58

Set Sail
M A R I N AS A N D R EGAT TAS
There is a busy programme of sailing regattas, cups and boat

shows held in the waters off Mallorca each year, and Palma
THE GUIDE
is a key hub for much of that activity. For those with a pas-
sion for boats, the Palma International Boat Show held in
April and May is a fine time to visit the island. Potential buy-
ers can step on board many of the boats on display the show,
there is a series of related events, and it’s a good opportuni-
ty to connect to the international sailing scene.
Key calendar fixtures such as the Copa del Rey Regatta,
held annually and hosted by the Real Club Náutico in Palma, BEST SAILING

are fantastic events for sailing aficionados. The Badia fills COURSES
with sails for this prestigious highlight of the international
Deep Blue
sailing calendar. A series of meals and events are held, organ-
Sea Training
ised by the Real Club Náutico, alongside the competitions.
Yacht crew training,
day skipper,
Yacht Life powerboat and first-
PAS S E I G M A R Í T I M aid courses.
Palma (and Mallorca in general) is extremely popular for sail- National
ing, with pretty marinas all around the coastline. In Palma, Sailing School
Club de Mar and Real Club Náutico are the two main ma- Port Calanova–based.
rinas where you can see all sorts of boats, from traditional Fantastic for kids –
llaüts to superyachts. courses include mini,
primary, dinghy,
Club de Mar has 575 berths. It serves yachts from 8m to
introductions to
135m long and has a waiting dock of 350m capacity, so many regattas and SUP/
of the larger boats and superyachts can be found here. Kayak classes
Closer to the Old Town, the Real Club Náutico has 971 available. Courses for
berths for sail and motor boats up to 40m long. adults too.
Several other marinas can be found a little further out. Port
Escuela
Calanova is a pretty marina with restaurants, hotels and Náutica Palma
beaches, and an excellent sailing school that offers plenty of Experienced sailing
courses for kids interested in learning the ropes. school with a wide
Further along still, about 10km from Palma is Puerto Por- range of courses.
tals, a luxury marina full of upmarket eateries and designer Palma Sea School
shops. On the other side of the Badia de Palma is the Club RYA Yachtmaster and
Náutico El Arenal, with 667 moorings and plenty of bars, Motor courses.
restaurants and nightlife on hand. There are yacht charter
Escuela
outfits, and companies offering boat excursions in the Ba- Náutica Navega
dia and further afield. Sailing schools offer a wide range of Good range of
courses. Shop around and seek out recommendations. Pre- courses.
fer to stick to dry land? A wander along the Passeig Marítim
will provide opportunities for yacht spotting.
May June July/August

Palmavela and the Ibiza Gold Superyacht Cup. Regata Copa del Rey and
Cup. Regatta Illes Balears Classics.
59

SANTA CATALINA
BOHEMIAN FORMER SAILORS’ QUARTER
THE GUIDE
From the windmills of Es Jonquet looking out over the harbour,

to the cute pastel- and ochre-painted former fishermen’s cot- GETTING ORIENTATED
tages with their bright, potted geraniums, ironwork balconies
Explore the area without
and green shutters, Santa Catalina is full of charm. a map; wander the narrow
It’s a place focused on health, wellbeing and a relaxed life- lanes around the market,
style. Buzzing lanes are filled with vintage boutiques, furni- stop off at one of the many
ture and design shops, and slow-living concept stores. There cafes and just soak up the
are vegan-friendly cafes on almost every corner, and multiple relaxed atmosphere.
yoga and Pilates studios.
Eat at any of the international restaurants or sample your
way round the Mercat de Santa Catalina, the large food mar-
ket in the centre of the neighbourhood. There are many mu-
sic bars and the evening crowd partying at the terrace restau-
rants and bars is mainly international.
TOP LEFT: LADIPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK © BOTTOM RIGHT: ALBERTO CASE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Wellness
YOGA AND PIL ATES
Santa Catalina offers

options for yoga, Pilates,
wellness and alternative
therapies. For yoga or
Pilates try Earth Yoga,
a well-established
studio; RA MA Institute
Mallorca for Kundalini and
meditation; or Ashtanga
House Mallorca for those
ashtanga flows. For all
things wellness, check
Es Jonquet windmills in with Lucky Bodies &
Happy Souls and Palma
Sport & Tennis Club.
Healthy Eating
VEGAN, VEGETARIAN, ORGANIC AND GLUTEN-FREE OPTIONS
Santa Catalina’s leafy side streets are lined with alternative cafes
and restaurants. There are health food stores (Herbolario Navarro),
or visit NU Market, a zero-waste grocery store and organic cafe.
For more organic and vegan options, Lo Vegano is an online
supermarket. Simple Smart Food near the church is a friendly, slow-
eating spot (everything is prepared from scratch so be patient!) with
lots of great options for vegans and vegetarians. Other great options
for vegans and vegetarians include Simply Delicious (Middle Eastern
dishes in a friendly setting), Elefante Mallorca (has vegans covered), Yoga on Platja de Magaluf
60 Restaurante EcoVegetariana and La Mujer de Verde.

M O R E I N S A N TA C ATA L I N A
WHY I LOVE
SANTA CATALINA
Explore a Boho Enclave Laura McVeigh, writer
M A K E L I K E A LO CA L
THE GUIDE
Santa Catalina (‘Santa Cat’ for locals or ‘Little Sweden’ as Much as I love the
Old Town of Palma,
it’s sometimes mischievously nicknamed, for the number of and the energy of its
Swedish residents and local business owners here) is a de- wide leafy avenues
light to explore on foot. It's best wandered without a map and the beauty of La
or route, to discover all the little gems, but here are some Rambla, it was Santa
suggestions to get you started. Catalina that stole my
heart. This village by
The Mercat de Santa Catalina is the beating heart of
the waterfront, just

the neighbourhood. Palma’s oldest market, it was estab- behind the windmills
lished in 1920 and sells a wide range of food – meat, fish, of Es Jonquet, is so
fruit and vegetables, alongside speciality products. Come full of charm and
for the people-watching as locals, yacht provisioners and character. There’s
chefs search among the fresh produce. a positive energy
about the place, with
Have breakfast in one of the many cafes that surround the small-scale businesses
market – La Madeleine de Proust, El Perrito or Santina created with love and
are just a few. Or buy your freshly baked bread at Palma care, a global and
Bread or Thomas Bakeshop Boutique (for artisan sour- diverse sensibility and
dough). Pick up flowers in BYLOLINDO or Fleurs San- a creative vibe with
ta Catalina. Pop into Eden Hairdressing (popular with artists’ studios and the
theatre Teatro Mar i
the yachting fraternity) to get your hair cut. Terra. I like to sit in one
You can join outdoor tai chi sessions in the leafy square by of the many cafes to
the church. Book in with Lucky Bodies & Happy Souls to write at least once a
get your chakras sorted (yoga, rolfing and naprapathy are week. Folk are friendly,
all on the menu) or take a yoga class (Hatha, Vinyasa, Yin, so it's easy to feel a
part of the laid-back life
Kundalini) at Earth Yoga. Feeling suitably Zen, head to one
of the neighbourhood.
the alternative cafes for a matcha or smoothie. And no-one blinks if
In between the estate agent windows are restaurants, bars, you ask for a decaf latte
boutique shops such as Bconnected Vintage on Sant Magí, with almond milk, or a
and concept stores such as serene La Libélula. gluten-free poke bowl;
Browse for books in beautiful La Salina, an international perfect for boho souls.
bookshop with a section for little readers too. Take a pottery
workshop in one of the ceramic studios, or a tennis lesson
alongside the international set in nearby Palma Sport &
Tennis Club (a cleverly redesigned take on the original 1960s
tennis club, now owned by the same Swedish folk as Portix-
ol Hotel). Wind up at the Sky Bar at iconic Art Nouveau
Hostal Cuba for rooftop sunset views over the harbour.
Digital Nomads
C OWO R K I N G C U LT U R E I N S A N TA CATA L I N A
Palma is an attractive city for (well-off) digital nomads and the

international super commuters who choose island life. While Fisher’s cottage
ARTESIA WELL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
WHERE TO FIND INTERNATIONAL FOOD
Rotana Sumaq Koh

Delicious Lebanese food in an Peruvian fusion cooking; Thai and Southeast Asian
atmospheric setting. €€ beautifully presented. €€ cooking served with love. €€
61

SANTA CATALINA C
de
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THE GUIDE
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ES JONQUET
62

e0 100 m
SIGHTS
1 Earth Yoga
l 2 Eden Hairdressing
aja
a n yC C de Ruiz de Ald
a 3 Hub Mallorca
mo
THE GUIDE
Ra 4 Parque de la Feixina
C de
5 ZULU Coworking
ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
6 Ashtanga House Mallorca
7 Lucky Bodies and Happy Souls
8 RA MA Institute Mallorca
EATING
9 Elefante Mallorca

Cd 10 NU Market
e Fr
ay L
uis 11 Restaurante EcoVegetariana
de
Leó 12 Simple Smart Food
n
13 Simply Delicious
DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
14 El Perrito
15 Sky Bar
16 La Madeleine de Proust
Caro
Av
17 Santina
d eJ
aum ENTERTAINMENT
e III
18 Es Baluard
19 Novo Café Lisboa
SHOPPING
ca 20 Bconnected Vintage
21 Fleurs Santa Catalina
22 Herbolario Navarro
23 La Libélula
entina
3`
24 La Salina
rg
25 Mercat de Santa Catalina

Av d'A
lorca
26 Palma Bread
Pg de Mal
27 Thomas Bakeshop Boutique
14 ņ ņ
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nníba
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Sa Feixina
Rond
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jorn
63

ALEX TIHONOVS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
BEST PLACES TO
STAY
Hotel Hostal Cuba

Boutique hotel in an
iconic building, with
the Sky Bar overlooking
the harbour; just on the
edge of Santa Catalina.
€€
Stay Catalina Boutique
Hotel-Apartments
Stylish apartments in Palma
a four-star hotel in the
heart of Santa Catalina.
€€
rents and living costs are relatively high, this is compensated
Bordoy Continental
for by the stunning beauty of the island, and the cosmopolitan,
Palma
A four-star, clean and vibrant atmosphere of this stylish city by the sea. While there
comfortable Santa are coworking spots throughout the city, Santa Catalina has
Catalina stay. €€ proved popular, giving it a global outlook and international feel.
Melia Palma Marina Hub Mallorca, on Carrer de Caro, is a functional, friendly
Comfortable, smart set-up for coworking. ZULU Coworking, on Carrer de Sant
hotel by the waterfront; Magí, has a restful, natural aesthetic and university library
excellent breakfasts;
great location. €€ study vibes. It offers a business address, events, networking,
teas and coffees, kitchen access, a patio and dedicated meet-
ing rooms along with the usual desk space and internet ac-
cess. Palma Sport & Tennis Club has recently opened a
dedicated coworking space (pricey but pretty, with good re-
sources and it gives access to the club facilities).
Or for something different, just up from Santa Catalina,
Homey Group is an architecture studio with a coworking
space on site to spark creative synergies.
There are also many fantastic cafes in Santa Catalina, many
with free wi-fi; digital working couldn’t be easier here.
WHERE TO FIND COWORKING SPOTS
Cómodo & Co, La Rambla Palmapolitan Casa Planas

Stunning setting just by La In one of Palma’s most Arty coworking spot with its
Rambla in a historic building; a impressive buildings; good own radio station, live music
friendly, creative space. meeting rooms; friendly set-up; and creative workshops on
drop-in or use regularly. Avinguda de Sant Ferran.
64

BADIA DE PALMA
SWEEPING BAY ON THE CITY OUTSKIRTS
THE GUIDE
The Badia de Palma stretches for 25km in an arch running
along the front of the capital city. It is a bay of enormous con- GETTING ORIENTATED
trasts – brash resorts sit next to upmarket retreats, quiet resi-
Choose your part of the bay
dential areas are next to lively, overdeveloped tourist complexes. wisely, depending on the
Starting from the east and the cliffs of Cala Blava, the bay type of holiday you hope to
curves past the busy resort strips of Ca’n Pastilla and S’Arenal, experience.

popular for water sports and nightlife, on to the quieter Ciutat
Jardí, and along the promenade full of cyclists and inline skaters
to the former fishing village, Portixol. From the harbour there
the city beach of Ca’n Pere Antoni stretches in front of the city.
On the far side, the bay reaches Cala Major, a small, golden
beach in a built-up area before upmarket residential Illetes
and Bendinat. Next is charming Portals Nous, before the pre-
dominantly British-favoured resorts of Palmanova and Mag-
aluf. Beyond these lie the quiet Portals Vells and Cala Vinyes.
RADU BOARESCU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Palma
Aquarium
WATERY ADVENTURES
With more than 8000

species of marine
life from around the
world’s oceans and
marine environments,
and an enormous shark
tank – you walk through
a tunnel with the 20
sharks swimming above
and the sides, or if you
Palma Aquarium are feeling particularly
intrepid, you can swim
with the sharks (book in
advance). The aquarium
Ca’n Pastilla & S’Arenal has a strong focus on
WATER SPORTS IN BADIA DE PALMA marine conservation and
environmental issues,
At the windier end of the Playa de Palma, Ca’n Pastilla forms part of with several of the
the package-resort strip that lines the coast from the airport towards displays relating to issues
Ciutat Jardí. The sandy beach is lined with cafes, restaurants and such as overfishing,
beach shops, along with hotels. For water sports, Bonaona Surf School marine pollution and
offers surfing and windsurf lessons for kids, along with kayaking, highlighting the ways
skateboarding and paddleboard classes. in which we can protect
For a trip by boat Attraction Catamarans offers trips to visit the calas marine environments.
and swimming spots around the Badia. The trip includes lunch. There is a ‘Shark
Further along at S’Arenal, popular with young German tourists, is Sleepover’ for kids once a
Aqualand – with thrilling slides, water attractions and splash pools for month on a Friday.
little ones, this is a perennial favourite with kids. 65

BADIA DE PALMA
^
Palma
18
Bellver Ħ 17
THE GUIDE
Castle H
1Q
Port
u 11 5ħ
# Gènova
Ù
Terreno Ù# Ħ 10
Cala
Major
I 12
Ù
# 14
Porto Pi
San Ù# Ħ 15
Agustin Q8
Ses
Bendinat Ĩ 19
#
Ù Ù
#
Illetes
Ù
#
ħ 13
ħ 16#
Ù
ħ7
Portals
Nous
Badia
de Palma
e 00 1 mile
2 km
HIGHLIGHTS 4 Palma Aquarium SIGHTS 9 Ciutat Jardí

1 Bellver Castle 5 Portixol 7 Bendinat 10 Club de Mar
2 Ca’n Pastilla 6 S’Arenal 8 Castillo de San Carlos 11 Cuevas de Génova
3 Es Molinar
66

Ù
#
Son
Ferriol
THE GUIDE
Portixol
5ħ
ħ3
Es Molinar Ù
#
Es Molinar
9 Palma de

ħ Ù
# Ciutat Mallorca
Jardí Airport
ĵ
Cala
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Pastilla Cala
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Palma
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Las
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Blava
12 Fundació Miró 14 Jardines de Marivent 16 Portals Nous ENTERTAINMENT

Mallorca 15 Port Calanova 17 Real Club Náutico 18 Auditòrium
13 Illetes 19 Junior Jungle Parc
67

Portixol & Es Molinar
P I CT U R ES Q U E FO R M E R FI S H I N G V I L L AG ES
Portixol and Es Molinar, former fishing villages on the outskirts of
THE GUIDE
Palma, have grown in popularity over recent years, and now have a cool
boho vibe of their own.
It’s not hard to see the attraction. Renovated and brightly painted
former fishermen’s cottages line the seafront mixed in with eclectic TOP TIP
bars, cafes and restaurants. All along the front runs an attractive wide
Only 10 minutes
promenade, which arches all the way for 16km around the Badia de
from the airport by
Palma. Here cyclists, rollerbladers, skateboarders or Segway fans drift
car, it can be tricky
between Palma and these picture-postcard spots.
to find parking in
Although foreign buyers moved in (pushing up the prices of frontline
Portixol due to its
properties), there are still plenty of local residents and the whole
one-way system.
place has an old-world feeling to it. It’s very family oriented. Watch
Much better to either
grandparents keeping an eye on toddlers on tricycles, impromptu picnic
take a taxi from the
gatherings on the sheltered beaches, and happy families cycling or
airport, or the 1 bus
skating by on the promenade.
stops by Melia Palma
Bay (quite close to
Portixol’s harbour).
From the centre
Portixol
buses 15 and 30 take
you to Portixol and Es
Molinar.
JUANJO TUGORES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
68

LUNAMARINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
BEST PORTIXOL
& ES MOLINAR
RESTAURANTS
Portixol Boutique
Hotel
Balneario Illetes Fabulous hotel
with stylish and
excellent restaurant
M O R E I N B A D I A D E PA L M A in a charming seafront
setting. Enjoy the
outdoor terrace on a
Sundowners & Sailing summer evening. €€€
A DAY I N P O RT I XO L
Assaona Beach Club
For a fabulously stylish stay with sundowner views, stay at Super-stylish beach
Portixol Boutique Hotel. Ask for a room with terrace fac- club with restaurant
ing the sea – enjoy the retro pool vibes with a dip before open year-round. €€
breakfast. An alternative is nearby Melia Palma Bay, with Petit Ca’n Punta Port
a large rooftop pool. Charming vintage
Check out Portixol’s small harbour, soak up the soothing atmosphere; caters
tinkling of the boats on the moorings and take some photo- well for vegetarians. €
graphs in the early-morning light before getting on your bike El Bungalow
and cycling along the promenade past the rows of picturesque Ibiza vibes in Es
former fishermen’s cottages that line the seafront. Molinar. €€
Stop along the way at the sheltered beaches or one of the Cocco
cafes looking out to sea. Find a parasol and sunlounger in Pizzas and Italian
Ciutat Jardí and go for a swim before cycling back. Stop off cuisine in a pretty
at one of the local restaurants for lunch – there are scores of seaside setting. €€
seafood or international options to choose from. For some-
thing really local, head to the Club Nautico Portixol for a
WHERE TO FIND THE BEST BEACH CLUBS
Purobeach Illetes Balneario Illetes Nikki Beach

Upmarket, all-white decor, on Relax by the sheltered, Magaluf, sushi and
the rocks. Restaurant, music, sandy beach, restaurant, sun champagne, DJ, party vibes.
sun loungers, daybeds, one for loungers, wellness area.
the ‘beautiful people’.
69

VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
Cycling the promenade in Palma

BEST BIKE HIRE
Palma on Bike three-course lunch or paella. See if you can organise a sail-
E-bikes, city bikes,
e-scooter, road ing lesson or boat trip from here.
bikes and mountain In the evening, enjoy a sundowner at one of the beach clubs
bikes; based near the such as Assaona. If you happen to be here on 23 June, join
cathedral. the Nit del Foc celebrations, when local families and friends
Nano Bikes will gather, the beaches are filled with candles and tea lights,
Professional; wide and everyone brings a midsummer night-time picnic to enjoy.
range of bikes; can
suggest cycle routes.
Cycle by the Sea
Berganti Bikes
CYC L I N G T H E BA D I A D E PA L M A RO U T E
For bike hire, bike
repairs and to buy The seafront promenade lined with tall palm trees and with
secondhand bicycles, lanes for cyclists and skaters, alongside the pavement for
based in Ca’n Pastilla.
walkers, stretches over 16km around the Badia de Palma.
One of the most enjoyable ways to explore the city and its
WHERE TO FIND THE BEST BEACHES
Ses Palmeres Ciutat Jardí Ca’n Pere Antoni

Small, sheltered Portixol Sandy beach for Es Coll d’En Palma’s city beach, home to
beach. Rabassa. Anima Beach Club.
70

beaches is to hire a bike (or to rollerblade or skate) and ex-
plore along the sea. COVES DE
There are a couple of public bike sharing schemes such as GÉNOVA
BiciPalma and Mou-te Bé that enable you to just pick a
These caves are
bike and go, for short trips around the centre. But for lon-
smaller than the
THE GUIDE
ger trips further afield, and for a greater choice of bike, there
more famous Coves
are bike-hire options in Palma (or indeed Segway if a bicycle del Drac on the
doesn’t appeal), and most offer child seats or buggy options east of the island,
too. Book in advance and bring ID when you go to pick up but the Coves de
your bicycle. You’ll be given a helmet and bike lock – do use Génova make for
it when you stop along the way. an interesting visit,
If cycling in the warmer months, remember to use sun pro- closer to Palma, and
tection, and bring water with you. Try not to get distracted are a lot less busy

by the views and keep an eye out for oncoming obstacles! with tourists. Kids
You can cycle from Porto Pi all the way as far as El Arenal, and adults alike
passing La Seu cathedral, Portixol and Es Molinar en route. will marvel at the
vivid colours and
incredible shapes of
Badia de Palma West the columns, pools
G O W EST and tunnels in these
Illetes, Bendinat, Portals Nous and Portals Vells all offer an limestone galleries
upmarket take on holidaying in the Badia. deep below the
Illetes has a very pretty sheltered beach, Platja de Ses Il- surface. At 36m deep,
letes, with small quiet calas nearby and the quieter Platja de there are over 1km of
cave paths to explore
Sa Comtesa. Illetes’ beach clubs offer a pleasant backdrop to a
in these caverns
beach day here. Parking can be tricky, but bus 3 runs frequently full of stalactites
from Passeig de la Rambla or Avinguda de Jaume III to here. and stalagmites.
Bendinat is mostly an exclusive residential area and its Discovered in 1906,
small beach and calas back onto smart hotels. This is golf club these ancient caverns
country. Nearby is the Junior Jungle Parc, a fabulous out- are remarkable for
door adventure circuit in the pine forest, with zipline and a their natural beauty,
bicycle to cycle on a high wire. Perfect for kids aged six to 12. colours and unusual
Portals Nous is a gorgeous beach with a chiringuito (snack formations.
bar) shack, beach volleyball and a pretty outlook. It is just
next to the glamorous Puerto Portals marina with its shiny
yachts. People-watch from one of the restaurants or cafes by
the marina.
For sailing, the National Sailing School at Port Calano-
va offers sailing lessons for children from mini through to
regatta training, as well as lessons for adults.
For diving, try Big Blue Diving in Palmanova. It offers
PADI courses for beginners.
Like the big resorts on the east, the west has its own wa-
ter park, Western Water Park in Magaluf. There are plenty
of thrill-seeking water rides and splash pools for little ones.
Portals Nous
WHERE TO FIND ADVENTURE PARKS
Western Water Park Kathmandu Theme Park Jungle Parc

Wild West–themed water Rides, mini golf, upside-down Two different sites depending
fun with slides (including a house and a splash park. on age ranges, both full of
260m-long mega slide), rides exciting tree-walk challenges
and a splash park. and zipline fun in pine forests.
71

THE GUIDE
WESTERN MALLORCA
RICH HIGGINS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Puig Major (p81)

72
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THE GUIDE
WESTERN
WESTERN MALLORCA
MALLORCA
CULTURE AND NATURE
Follow in the footsteps of Frédéric Chopin and George Sand in
charming Valldemossa, explore the mountains of the Serra de
Tramuntana, and discover the island’s coastline and hill villages.
Defined by the Serra de Tramuntana, This part of the island is also pop-
a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, the ular with nature lovers, and the
west of the island is a privi- mountains and coastline of-

leged part, with its orange fer a multitude of hiking
and olive groves, stun- and cycling routes.
ning public gardens Islanders here are
surrounded by an more likely to speak
imposing mountain Mallorquin, and ev-
backdrop, glorious erything happens poc
coastline and sand- a poc (‘bit by bit’). One
stone villages tum- of the simple pleasures
bling down to the sea. is to sit in a sun-dappled
It's perfect for art and square with a cafè amb
architecture lovers – from llet (milky espresso) and
Picasso and Miró artworks watch life go by. Or hire a boat
and marvellous Modernista to explore the coast. Traditional
buildings in Sóller; to the contempo- Mallorcan llaüts bob up and down in
rary CCA gallery in Andratx; to the creative the harbour at Port de Sóller, or larger boats
haven that is Deià, long home to artists, will take you out to Sa Calobra or along the
writers and musicians. coastline to discover hidden coves and caves.
THE MAIN AREAS
SÓLLER VALLDEMOSSA ANDRATX
Modernista gem in the Golden Chopin and scenic stop. p84 Artistic mountain town. p91
Valley. p78
73

Find Your Way
THE GUIDE
Stretching over 140km, with the Serra de Tramuntana running

the length of the west coast, the twisting coastal road meanders
through sandstone villages that tumble vertiginously down to
the sea, surrounded by pine forest and olive, carob, orange and
WESTERN MALLORCA
almond groves.
Mediterranean
Sea
Andratx, p91
Attractive mountain town with
affluent yachting scene at the
nearby Port de Andratx; makes
a good base for exploring Port de
mountains inland or the coast Valldemossa Ù#
further south.
Port des G
#
Ù
Canonge Re
Ca
Ù
#
Banyalbufar
BIKE OR HIKE
#
Ù
Esporles
Take things slow and
Estellencs
hike or cycle parts of the
Ù
#
west coast for splendid

landscapes and exploring.
ana
un t Puigpunyent EstabliÙ#
am
#
Ù
Tr
ra de
Ser
Galilea Ù#
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Sa Dragonera
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Ù
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Sant Elm S'Arracó Es Capdellà

Sa Dragonera
Ù
#
Ù
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Ù
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Andratx
Ù
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Calvià
Port
d'Andratx Costa d'en
74
#
Ù
VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, PROSLGN/SHUTTERSTOCK © #
Ù
Es Camp BlanesÙ# Bendinat
de Mar #
Peguera Ù#

e 00 5 miles
10 km
Valldemossa, p84
THE GUIDE
Beloved by Frédéric Chopin, less so
by George Sand, this picturesque Monestir
coastal town offers history, culture, de Lluc
Sa Calobra
art and a spectacular setting
Ù
#
rre
nt de Lluc Y
To
#
Ù Ù
#
Cala Escorca
Tuent
#
Ù
Lluc
WESTERN MALLORCA
Badia de
Sóller Embassament
Son del Gorg Blau
Cap Gros Ù
#
Port de Comuna de Torella
Sóller Fornalutx Ù
#
n
Fornalutx so
de Embassament
Ù
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a l a de Cúber
Biniaraix rr el
Sóller Ù
# Se orr
Lluc #
T
#
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Alcari Sóller, p78 Mancor
G Sóller deÙ#la Vall
Railway Modernista
Ù
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Deià Station architecture, art
galleries, stunning
gardens and the west
Orient #
Ù
Biniamar
coast’s main beaches
#
Ù
ort de Muntanya
mossa Ù# del Voltor at Port de Sóller, with a
remarkable mountain
Ù
# Valldemossa backdrop.
G
e Real Ù
#
Bunyola
Cartuja
#
Ù
s
Ù
#
S'Esgleieta
Ù
#
Santa Maria
del Camí Ses
Ù
#
Biniali
Alqueries Ù#
Establiments
Ù
#
Son
Sardina BUS
Ù#
Reasonably regular service CAR

between the key hubs. With Car is the best way to
a little timetable planning discover the switchback
La Vileta this can be a low-stress way coastal drive from Andratx
to travel round.
Ù
#
up to the Monestir de
There are no trains this Lluc. However, in summer
Palma
#
side of the island bar the months the roads become
charming old-fashioned congested and parking
train running between complicated.
Ù
#
Terreno Palma and Sóller, and the
tram that runs from Sóller to
Badia de the Port de Sóller. 75
dinat Palma

Plan Your If You Only
Do One Thing
THE GUIDE
Time ● Get your fill of culture here

with a visit either to Valldemossa
Western Mallorca is a place to (p84), to see the Real Cartuja
immerse in nature, hiking in the and the rooms where Frédéric
mountains, swimming in hidden Chopin stayed with George Sand
WESTERN MALLORCA
calas (coves) or cycling the and composed many pieces of

serpentine mountain roads. Rich well-known music, or Deià (p88)
in culture, art and architecture, it and visit the former house, now
house-museum of writer Robert
also offers another side to island
Graves, who lived for many years
life.
in this picturesque mountainside
village by the sea. In the summer
catch one of the classical concerts
in Deià, Valldemossa or Alfàbia.
NATALIA FEDORI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Valldemossa (p84)
Seasonal
Highlights
Spring shows off this
region at its best, with FEBRUARY MARCH/APRIL APRIL
wildflowers and almond Carnaval is celebrated Experience the Mallorca 312 is
blossom dotting island-wide with pageantry and the island’s most
the landscape. It's a parades, fancy dress processions of Semana challenging cycling
perfect time for hiking and festivities. Santa (Holy Week). race, with steep ascents
or cycling. Autumn is Celebrated island-wide. through the Tramuntana
welcomed with local mountains.
76 festivals. LOGINS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ALEKSANDRA SUZI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, TOMAS MIKLIK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Three Days to If You Have
Travel Around More Time
THE GUIDE
● Add in some outdoors activity ● Immerse yourself in the local
and hike part of the GR221 (p94; culture. Stay at an incredible
which stretches from Andratx to finca (rural estate) such as Ca’s
the Monestir de Lluc), cycle the Xorc (p79), take cooking classes
hairpin bends of Sa Calobra (p89; or a workshop at eco-retreat
WESTERN MALLORCA
only for the expert cyclist), or Ecocirer (p82) in Sóller, shop for
explore off the coast with diving, fresh produce at one of the food
sailing or paddleboarding from markets or have a special 0km
Port de Sóller (p78). There are meal (with spectacular views) at
plenty of hidden coves and caves cliffside Béns d’Avall (p80). Not
to discover, or head over to Sa had your fill of culture yet? Check
Dragonera island (p95) for its get- out the CCA gallery in Andratx
away-from-it-all vibes. (p91), explore the Modernista
architecture in Sóller (p78) or see
the Miró and Picasso ceramics
in the Sóller train station, before
taking the 1912 train to Palma
through the mountain tunnels.
MAY AUGUST SEPTEMBER OCTOBER

Es Firó is a Moors- The Chopin Classical The Deià International The Classical Music
versus-Christians Music Festival in Music Festival has Festival at Port
re-enactment in a mock Valldemossa features events from April to de Sóller is held in
battle in Sóller. Expect concerts every Sunday October. the Museo del Mar
street parties, fancy in August. throughout the month.
dress and large crowds.
MEGAPIXELES.ES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOHN-FS-PIC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, PETR POHUDKA/SHUTTERSTOCK©, BALATE DORIN/SHUTTERSTOCK © 77

SÓLLER
# Sóller
^ Palma
THE GUIDE
In the years before the tunnel through the mountains was con-
structed, connecting Sóller to the rest of the island, this was
a place apart. The main trade (of citrus fruits, which flourish
here in the Golden Valley) was with France, and intrepid lo-
cals made new lives in places such as Cuba and Puerto Rico,
GETTING ORIENTATED
later bringing those influences, along with Modernista archi-
tecture and the creation of wealthy mansions, back to Sóller. Travel by train to Sóller from
WESTERN MALLORCA
These international influences can still be observed in the Palma (one-hour trip), and
take the tram to the Port de
town today (particularly in the Solleric spoken locally, in its
Sóller. The town is also well
names, or in the mixing of spoken French with Spanish and served with a frequent bus
Mallorquin among older locals). service to Palma both on a
The pretty town sits in the valley surrounded by orange and direct route and a coastal
olive groves, sheltered by the mountains. The Moorish past route (stopping at Deià,
too can still be felt in the cultivated terraced landscaping, Valldemossa and other
villages along the route).
and the names of nearby places such as Biniaraix and Alfàbia. Note, in 2022 in the summer
Today this mainly affluent mountain town attracts inter- months the centre of Sóller
national residents, and holidaymakers keen on exploring the was closed to hire cars due
beauty of the wild Tramuntana. to high volumes of traffic.
A Magical Town in the Golden Valley

E X PLO R E M O D E R N I STA A RC H I T ECT U R E A N D A RT
ADVENTURE
ACTIVITIES NEAR Arrive by the old-fashioned train to Sóller's railway station,
SÓLLER passing through remarkable mountain landscapes and orange
groves, and you are immediately greeted with exhibitions of
Stand-up
art by Picasso and Miró – before even leaving the station. The
paddleboarding (SUP
Soller), sailing (charter art gallery Ca’n Prunera, set in a Modernista mansion, also
with Bonnie Lass has a fine collection of Miró and Picasso works.
Charters) or diving Sóller seduces with its easy charm and beautiful architecture.
(Diving Soller) are Standouts are the mainly baroque Sant Bartomeu church,
available in Port de given a Modernista update by Gaudi’s student, Joan Rubió,
Sóller.
Interested in rock
and the adjacent Banco de Sóller in the central square, Plaça
climbing or psicobloc? de la Constitució.
Rock & Ride Mallorca The town has a relaxed atmosphere. Most people spend time
can help organise. Sa sitting at one of the outdoor cafes in one of the squares chat-
Gubia, Port de Sóller ting to friends, children play by the fountain, and the main
and Sa Calobra all offer shopping street Calle Luna buzzes with life, particularly in
challenging climbs.
Hiking fan but not the early evening.
sure which routes will There are often festivals, concerts or a market (on Saturdays)
be best? Book with taking place, which gives Sóller a real energy.
Mallorca Hiking Travelling down to the nearby Port de Sóller, with its charm-
for tailor-made or ing beaches and cafe- and restaurant-lined promenade, is
group hikes.
made easy with the heritage tramway.
78

er a
agu e0 100 m
HIGHLIGHTS
om
1 Sóller Railway Station
eR
Cd
C de la
I4 SIGHTS
Cd
2 Banco de Sóller
e l'H
THE GUIDE
Vic
osp
3 Calle Luna
tòria
ici
4 Ca’n Prunera –
11 M
Plaça del 3G
C de
aig
Museu Modernista
Cd
Cd
Mercat
Bata an
eS
5 Plaça de la
eS
Av d
C de
ant
erra
c
Biniaraix Constitució
Jo
eC
(2km);
Vives
tò 6 Sant Bartomeu Church

r is
f ol Plaça de la Fornalutx
Cd
Co eu (3km)
à lo m Constitució rtom
eS
Bauç 5 G t Ba D
aM
C d e C de S a n
ar
WESTERN MALLORCA
astor
C del Vicari P Y2
Y
6
Cd
e
a um
eS
C Sant J
ant
C de Pastor
Sóller
P
ere
Railway
l II
Cd
be
Station
eP
'Isa
au
Cd
Port de Sóller G 1
Cd
ió
No
(6km); Bunyola Un
gu
eR
e la
D
era
(11km) Cd
eia
l
Hill Villages in the Tramuntana

V I S I T B I N I A R A I X , FO R N A LU T X A N D B U N YO L A
A pleasant hike from the centre of Sóller takes in the hamlet

of Biniaraix (25 minutes' walk) and then Fornalutx (30 min-
utes' walk), considered one of the prettiest villages in Spain.
If the summer tourists get too much, you can travel a little
further afield and catch the train to Bunyola (15 minutes)
and step back in time.
Biniaraix (signposted from the top of Calle Luna) is all
steep, narrow cobbled lanes and steps, walkways lined with
flowerpots, and green-shuttered sandstone homes. Next to its
church is the small square with an excellent restaurant, Café
Es Barranc, and a cafe in the shade of the stone walls and
plane trees. Popular with hikers, this is a good stopping point
en route to Fornalutx. Take the easy lower route, or if you’re
feeling adventurous, the more challenging three-hour Barranc
de Biniaraix route offers incredible views down to the coast.
Fornalutx has several superb restaurants (book ahead at
busy times) and half the charm is to be found in simply wan-
dering its steep, bougainvillea-filled lanes or sitting in its
peaceful square with a well-deserved coffee and cake after
WHERE TO STAY IN THE GOLDEN VALLEY
Ca's Xorc Bikini Island & Mountain Ecocirer

It's hard to reach but once Hotel, Port de Sóller An eco-stay in the centre of
you’re there you won’t want to Super-stylish, views over the Sóller with home-away-from-
leave. Amazing food, excellent harbour. Leave the kids at home vibes. Vegans and
rooms, magical setting. €€€ home. €€€ vegetarians will enjoy. €€
79

MAGDANATKA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
WESTERN MALLORCA
BEST
RESTAURANTS
IN THE GOLDEN
VALLEY
Béns d’Avall
Remarkable food in
a magical cliffside
setting overlooking
the sea (book in
advance). €€€
La Casona
Stylish interior,
welcoming staff and
quality cuisine in the
centre of Sóller. €€
NENI Mallorca
Inventive Lebanese Biniaraix (p79)
menu in a fantastic
setting overlooking
your hike. There’s only one taxi (often very busy) and few
the harbour (booking
highly advised). €€€ bus connections so be prepared to continue your walk back
down to Sóller.
Villa Luisa Sóller
After arriving at the train station at Bunyola, wander up
Popular stylish
to the leafy main square and relax. There are a few shops
restaurant on the
seafront. €€ here, and with a population of about 6000 it’s busier than
Fornalutx, but it’s still a very pleasant spot to linger awhile.
Sa Granja It's popular with cyclists and walkers due to the surrounding
Beloved Sóller
forests, manor houses and mountain trails. Nearby Jardins
institution offering
well-cooked food
de Alfàbia, once home to the Moorish viceroy of Mallorca, is
served with care. €€ a peaceful, tranquil place to visit. It is full of water features,
exotic plants and remnants of the Arabic past.
WHERE TO STAY IN THE GOLDEN VALLEY
Son Bleda Hotel Ca’n Roses Son Salas

Luxurious former monastery, Sophisticated riad vibes with A 17th-century farmhouse with
enchanting setting and dreamy an open courtyard and a orange and olive groves, lemon
poolside views across the beautiful palm-filled garden and avocado trees, and a
valley. €€€ with pool and day beds. €€€ mountain backdrop. €€€
80

Monestir
Monestir
de Lluc #
THE GUIDE
Sóller
#
# d'Alfàbia
Jardins d 'A
Alfàbia
Beyond Sóller
#
aixxa
Raixa
The Sóller valley is rich in beautiful gardens.
WESTERN MALLORCA
Nearby Raixa, the Botanic Gardens and the
Jardins de Alfàbia are must-sees – as too are the
wonders of Sa Calobra and the Monestir de Lluc.
After your fill of exploring the gardens of Raixa and the Jardins
de Alfàbia, for wilder nature experiences follow the mountain
road from Sóller towards Pollença to discover the incredible GETTING ORIENTATED
beauty of Sa Calobra, a hidden beach between giant limestone
crags, and just next to it, equally stunning gorge Torrent del Travel at your own pace
Pareis. If the drive is too challenging (12km of hairpin bends by car, though the route
aplenty), these gems can be reached by boat from Sóller too. is also possible by local
bus (limited service). You
Other points along the route to pause include the Mirador
can stay overnight at the
de Ses Barques, for an amazing panoramic view and the two
no-frills monastery.
reservoirs at the foot of Mallorca’s highest peak, Puig Major
(Cúber and Gorg Blau).
Then continue on to Monestir de Lluc, the spiritual heart
of the island.
Jardins de Alfàbia (p82)
GP PHOTOTRENDS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
81

Monestir de Lluc
M A L LO RCA' S S P I R I T UA L H E A RT
This mountaintop monastery (the original chapel dates from

I LIVE HERE: THE the 13th century, today’s buildings from the 17th and 18th cen-
THE GUIDE
SÓLLER VALLEY turies) is renowned for its Els Blauets choir, and sits at the
spiritual heart of Mallorca. It is popular with pilgrims, hik-
ers and those in search of peaceful places alike.
In addition to the monastery, you can explore the surround-
ing sacred forest and immerse in nature. For hikers the Puig
de Massanella, Puig de Tomir, Puig Roig and Puig dén Gal-
ileu are nearby challenging hikes. The monastery also of-
‘Sóller Shirley’ made
fers simple but pleasant overnight accommodation. For those
WESTERN MALLORCA
a three-generational
move to the Sóller travelling with children there is a small play park, a swim-
valley 20 years ago ming pool, a botanic garden and picnic area to enjoy, as well
when she immersed as the stunning natural setting. A traditional restaurant, Sa
herself in the Sóller Fonda, offers breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is best to book
world she left London
for.
in advance on busy weekends. The monastery also caters for
sollerweb.com cyclists (forming part of a Protected Cycle Route), and offers
incredible starlight gazing at night, far from the light pollu-
“There is a moment tion of urban centres.
which unites all On the first Saturday of August you can join the ‘Night of
those who love the the Pilgrims’ when over 1000 pilgrims walk by torchlight from
Sóller valley. The
emergence out of the
Palma to the monastery, a journey of 42km by foot overnight.
Sóller road tunnel and It's an atmospheric and unforgettable experience.
the realisation you
are driving down the Gardens Reflecting Moorish Past
mountain road to your
V I S I T T H E R A I X A , A L FÀ B I A A N D T H E B OTA N I C GA R D E N S O F
destiny. The ‘hairs on
SÓLLER
the back of your neck’
experience when you A grand country estate, originally a Moorish farmstead, lat-
know it´s real. The er home to a cardinal fond of collecting roman antiquities,
‘Sólleric’ is born in that
Raixa has been developed into a remarkable garden and
moment and returns
either as a frequent country estate. Raixa also served as an inspiration to writ-
visitor or relocates. This er Agatha Christie.
is the ‘Island within an The Moorish-designed Jardins d’Alfàbia have abundant
Island’ where French is water features and palm trees. There is a pleasant garden
as common as Spanish cafe and interesting house to visit as well. Kids love the hid-
and all live their best
lives in this glorious
den sprinklers on the arched walkway. There are also sum-
place. The valley, mertime concerts from time to time in this magical setting.
mountains, sea and
traditions are the soul
of Sóller.”
WHERE TO FIND ALTERNATIVE ACTIVITIES IN SÓLLER
S’Espai Lula Luca Ecocirer

Take a yoga class with Enjoy a ceramics workshop Kids fancy learning to cook?
wonderful mountain views with Luciana. Take a workshop with Barbara.
from the studio.
82

VENTURA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
WESTERN MALLORCA
Monestir de Lluc
With a collection gathered from the Balearics and other Med-

iterranean isles including Crete, Sicily, Malta, Corsica and Sar-
dinia, and including many specimens from the Canary Islands,
Sóller’s Botanic Gardens is a restful spot with orchards, a
natural history museum and botanical research centre.
CAN YOU SPOT?
Trees Plants Butterflies

Carob, cypress, almond, Heather, hibiscus, gladioli, wild Cleopatra, Queen of Spain
olive, orange, pomegranate, asparagus fritillary, plain tiger
pistachio
83

VALLDEMOSSA
Valldemossa
#
^ Palma
& THE WEST

THE GUIDE
COAST
The west coast offers a breathtakingly beautiful stretch of
WESTERN MALLORCA
GETTING ORIENTATED
wild coastline, taking in several stunning villages and towns
of the Tramuntana, including cultural hot spot Valldemossa, Hire a car to travel the
beautiful Banyalbufar, which perches on the cliffside by the coastal areas, but note
sea, and picture postcard–perfect Deià. parking is extremely limited
in Deià and the road gets
One of the best ways to explore this part of the island is by very congested in the
boat, travelling along the coastline and stopping off at the summer months, so is
calas along the way. best discovered in low or
Backed by the Tramuntana, this is also fine hiking country shoulder season. There is
with routes all along the coast and further inland. a bus service to Deià and
Valldemossa running from
Sóller and Palma. Taxis are
hard to come by in summer.
MUST-SEE Classical Music & Cloisters

EVENTS IN FO L LOW I N T H E FO OT ST E P S O F C H O P I N A N D G EO RG E S A N D
VALLDEMOSSA
The drive to Valldemossa through sweeping gorges of pine for-
La Beata Fiestas ests, olive groves and grand fincas (country estates) is one of the
(28 July) prettiest in Mallorca. Park in one of the two car parks just at
The annual celebration the entrance to the town – a charming hillside tumble of sand-
in memory of Santa stone houses, quaint (and more touristy) shops, art galleries,
Catalina Tomás atmospheric churches and several pleasant, cafe-lined squares.
includes processions,
Orient yourself with the maps on boards by the tourist of-
pipers, marching
bands, traditional fice. It’s a small place and easily walkable (though some of
costumes and a the cobbled streets are steep).
‘triumphant carriage’. Most visitors head straight to the Real Cartuja, the Car-
Chopin Classical thusian monastery, to visit the 1838–39 home of composer
Music Festival Frédéric Chopin and writer George Sand. She wrote about
(August) the stay in A Winter in Majorca, saying ‘All that a Poet or
Established in 1930, this Painter might dream of, Nature has created here’. The cells in
festival brings together the monastery were rented out to visiting artists, writers (in-
significant composers cluding Rubén Darío and Jorge Luis Borges) and musicians.
and performers, with
a series of concerts
Chopin’s spartan rooms had a lush terrace with incredibly
held in August each scenic views, and it was here that he wrote many of his fa-
year. Internationally mous pieces of music.
renowned pianists The museum nearby also makes for a fascinating visit, in-
perform under starlit cluding the Museu d’Art Contemporani de Valldemossa,
skies in the grounds of which hosts works by Picasso and Miró.
the Real Cartuja. Make
sure to purchase tickets After visiting the Real Cartuja and the mazelike gardens,
in advance. stop for an ice cream in the square. The bright, airy gallery
84

e 00 5 km
2.5 miles
Lluc
Alcari
THE GUIDE
Ù#
ħ2
Mediterranean
Sea
Deià Ĥ 3
WESTERN MALLORCA
Port de
Valldemossa Muntanya
Ù
# del Voltor
6G
Valldemossa
G Ĥ
8 10
Ù
#
Port des
Canonge
Banyalbufar
1Ĥ
R9
Esporles Ĥ
4 G7
Estellencs Ù
#
S'Esgleieta
Ĥ5
SIGHTS 3 Deià 6 Sa Foradada 9 Torre des Verger

1 Banyalbufar 4 Esporles 7 Serra de Tramuntana 10 Valldemossa
2 Cala Deià 5 Estellencs 8 Son Moragues Estate
space of Fundación Cultural Coll Bardolet across the way hosts an interesting ar-
ray of exhibitions.
Island Traditions
O L I V E O I L FRO M T H E T R A M U N TA N A
With its centuries-old olive groves, Mallorca is famous for its quality olive oils. Son
Moragues estate, near Valldemossa in a stunning mountain setting, provides a
WHERE TO STAY IN VALLDEMOSSA
Mirabó de Valldemossa C’as Papà Hotel Continental

This retreat is a 16th-century This village hotel is welcoming, Modern with great sea views,
finca set in glorious countryside central and full of character. this hotel is a luxurious stay with
about 1.5km from Valldemossa. Offering only 13 rooms, it is large pool, easy access to hiking
Ideal for hikers. €€ small-scale and charming. €€ routes and sea swims. €€€
85

EMILY MARIE WILSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
ARTISAN MAKERS
SantaPalma
WESTERN MALLORCA
Handcrafted,
architect-designed
traditional bags
made locally and
sustainably in Inca
from llata (sun-dried
palm leaf) Buy online
at santapalma.com.
Mel Vici
Local honey from
Alaró from more Torre des Verger
than 200 beehives,
harvesting orange, unique opportunity to learn from local experts all about
oak, carob and the heritage, history, landscape stewardship and ancestral
heather honey, techniques (along with modern innovations) used to create
available in Alaró and olive oil in the Tramuntana. Son Moragues offers various
Palma.
experiences, so choose depending on the time available to
Formatges Burguera you and by budget.
Artisan cheese Examples include the Olive Oil Studio, a two-hour expe-
made by farmers and rience where you tour the land, see 700-year-old olive trees
brothers Jaime and dating back to the 13th century, and learn about olive oil pro-
Sebastián Burguera,
duction, storage and usage, all topped off with a professional
with a focus on
quality.
tasting session (washed down with local bread and cheeses).
Or you can participate in the olive harvest itself if visiting at
that time (see website for details).
For those interested in combining learning about the tra-
ditions of olive-oil making with a hike in nature, there is the
Ses Puntes experience, a guided four-hour hike to the glori-
ous look-out point, along with a picnic of Son Moragues or-
ganic farm products. Or enjoy a longer trek (six hours) to the
refuge on a contemplative hike with explanations of the land-
scape, traditions and, of course, the olives.
WHERE TO GO NEAR ESPORLES
Sa Granja Raixa La Gubia

This 17th-century country Another fine example of a For a morning or afternoon’s
estate and traditional farm is country estate and gardens, horse riding, or for lessons for
open to visits. The gardens with a small exhibition charting children (near Raixa). Offers
make for a pleasant picnic spot. back to its Moorish origins. summer camp sessions too.
86

Traditional Villages & Coastal Paths
M A R K E T DAYS , M E A N D E R I N G A N D FIRA DOLÇ –
D I S C OV E R I N G AU T H E N T I C M A L LO RCA SWEET FAIR
On the beautiful, twisting coastal road from Andratx to Deià, This festival of
THE GUIDE
most tour groups speed past quieter rural spots such as the sweet pastries and
cliffside village of Estellencs or the sleepy Tramuntana town confectionary is held
of Esporles. Stopping off here to explore can be rewarding, in early October in
however. It’s a haven for walkers and cyclists, and offers a Esporles. You can
more authentic side to Mallorcan life. sample local treats
Estellencs, with its 300 inhabitants, takes life at an easy such as bunyols
pace. The local store is called Un Poc de Tot (‘A little of every- (doughnuts), crespells
thing’) and there are a handful of cafes. Es Grau restaurant is a (biscuits) and
ensaïmades (sweet
WESTERN MALLORCA
good stop for lunch with dizzying views from the terrace over
and savoury pastries).
the sea below. The sandstone village houses are bedecked in There are also
bursts of colourful bougainvillea. Match the locals’ gentle pace displays of baking and
and meander down past olive trees and lemon groves, to the cooking workshops.
small harbour below the village. Cala Estellencs is part-pebble There are plenty of
beach, part-fishing harbour and has a little beach bar serving activities on hand to
simple snacks and cool drinks. keep the kids amused,
Esporles, in contrast, is a handsome, stone-hued moun- and a range of craft
tain town, with a welcoming shady avenue of plane trees to stalls and music
signal your arrival. Only 20 minutes’ drive from Palma, yet provided by the local
a world away, time passes sweetly here. Saturday is a popu- xeremiers (musicians
lar market day, showcasing local products. There is a grand who play the xeremia,
Gothic church in the centre, and a stream that runs through an instrument similar
to the bagpipes).
the town. Nearby is La Granja, a historic country estate house
and a traditional farm.
Coastal Drives & Historic Past

BA N YA L B U FA R A N D T H E TO R R E D ES V E RG E R
One of the interesting historical features on the island are

the 16th- and 17th-century stone watchtowers that dot its CLASSICAL MUSIC
coastline cliffs – a reminder of the days of pirate raids
on the island. At one point around 50 of these towers For lovers of classical music the
formed an early-warning network that could signal to the Deià International Music Festival
other towers of incoming dangers using smoke signals (p77) is a firm favourite in the
during the daytime, and with a coded series of flashes of island’s summer events calendar.
fire at night-time, thereby alerting local folk in advance. Many events take place at
Along the west coast there are several watchtowers re- Son Marroig. Book well in
maining today. Torre des Verger, near Banyalbufar, dates advance online.
from 1579, making it one of the oldest on the island. With its
spectacular views, it is also known as Mirador de ses Ànimes
(Viewpoint of the Souls). It would signal warnings to the watch-
towers in Valldemossa, Deià, Port de Sóller and Sa Dragonera.
WHERE TO FIND VIEWPOINTS ON THE WEST COAST
Sa Foradada Torre des Verger Far de Cap Gros

By the Son Marroig Mallorca’s oldest watchtower, Hike, bike or drive up to the
estate, between Deià and between Banyalbufar and lighthouse for a stunning
Valldemossa, makes for a Estellencs. Climb the stairs for view over the Tramuntana
spectacular sunset view. an incredible view. mountains and the sea.
87

Stop along this spectacular coastal road at Banyalbufar
(16km from Valldemossa) – the hamlet’s name is drawn from
Moorish origins and means ‘vineyard by the sea’. It is well
known for the cultivation of malvasia grapes on its striking
WATCHTOWERS terraces, another Moorish agricultural legacy, that descend
THE GUIDE
FOR PIRATE RAIDS towards the sea. Crops of tomatoes and other fruit and veg-
etables also thrive here. This is a quiet place, with just a few
Given its location,
Mallorca has long shops, cafes and galleries. Take a dip at the tiny pebbly beach
featured as an of tranquil Cala Banyalbufar below the village houses.
important trading
hub dating back Cultural Retreats & Treats
to Phoenician, D E I À , H O M E TO A RT I ST S , W R I T E R S A N D M U S I C I A N S
Carthaginian,
WESTERN MALLORCA
Byzantine, Greek and It was writer Robert Graves (I, Claudius; Goodbye to All That)
Roman times. As the who put picture-postcard pretty Deià on the map after mov-
pirate raids increased, ing to the village in 1929 in search of sun and a peaceful cre-
about 50 stone ative life. Today you can visit his former home, Canallún (the
watchtowers were Faraway Home), which includes his study and the printing
built and played a press used for printing much of his writing. He was visited
key role in protecting here by figures including Ava Gardner, Alec Guinness, Peter
the island. Today Ustinov and Kingsley Amis to Deià.
notable remaining More recently the village, perched like a cubist painting
examples include next to the intense Mediterranean Sea, became popular with
the Torre des Verger many famous artists and musicians too (Sting, Bob Geldolf,
(Banyalbufar; p87); the Gallaghers, to name just a few), and the local Sa Fonda
the Torre de Albercutx
bar proved a hub for evening gatherings. For creatives ‘La
(Pollença), which
offers incredible
Res’ (the beautiful La Residencia Hotel) runs art tours in
views out over Cap the village taking you to meet local artists and see them at
de Formento; and work in their studios, or you can take an art class (painting,
the Serra del Cavall ceramics or sculpture) or a writing course.
Bernat, and Serra Do note, in summer months the village and its rocky cala
de Tramuntana and below can be overwhelmed with visitors – especially given
Torre d’Albarca in the success of the recent TV adaptation of The Night Man-
the Llevant Natural ager, which featured local waterfront restaurant Ca’s Patro
Park, which looks out March. Consider visiting in the shoulder seasons instead,
across to Menorca. support local enterprises and be mindful (the village has very
limited parking and this stretch of the twisting coastal road
can become congested in summer).
Exploring by Sea
B OAT T R I P TO D E I À A N D S A FO R A DA DA
Avoid the summer traffic congestion on the winding Deià

coast road, and instead visit by boat.
Trips can be arranged from nearby Port de Sóller for a full-
or half-day sailing along this beautiful stretch of coast. Go
WHERE TO EAT IN VALLDEMOSSA
Es Taller Es Roquissar La Posada

Popular spot, friendly service, Pretty, atmospheric setting Gorgeous views. One for fans
quality cooking. €€ and Mediterranean dining. €€ of grilled meats. €€
88

MAXIGREEK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BEST
THE GUIDE
RESTAURANTS IN
DEIÀ
Es Racó d’es Teix

Michelin-starred,
refined dining
experience in
beautiful setting (book
WESTERN MALLORCA
in advance). €€€
El Olivo
Break out the
credit card for this
romantic restaurant
in a picture-perfect
setting at the La
Residencia Hotel.
Also good for
afternoon tea. €€€
Sa Foradada Restaurant Sebastian
Quality Mediterranean
snorkelling, swimming, practise SUP or fishing, explore the cooking in welcoming
limestone caves that dot the coastline, find quiet rocky calas restaurant with
or stop off for lunch in Cala Deià or drop anchor near the gorgeous terrace. €€
iconic Sa Foradada. Restaurant Nama
Lunch at Ca’s Patro March in Cala Deià is idyllic. It’s a bit of Atmospheric, Thai-
a scramble up to the restaurant that hangs over the cliff edge fusion cooking, good
above, but this is a wonderful spot for a wood-fired paella and selection for vegan/
a cool drink in the shade looking out over blissful views. Al- vegetarians (book
though the restaurant is hard to reach (without a boat, it’s a in advance), but it’s
good 30-minute hike down from Son Marroig estate), it is pop- really all about the
ular, so make sure to get your reservation in before arriving. views. €€
Ca’s Patro March
Get Active in the Serra de Tramuntana Waterfront seafood
H I K I N G, B I K I N G A N D C L I M B I N G I N
restaurant with terrace
A U N ES C O B I O S PH E R E R ES E RV E jutting out over the sea
in Cala Deià. Featured
This spectacular mountain range, stretching the length of in The Night Manager.
the west coast, provides a dramatic and unforgettable back- Excellent food in
drop to any visit to the island. While the coastal road with its beautiful setting but
vertiginous views over the sea or the hairpin-bend excesses book in advance and
of the road down to Sa Calobra make for memorable driving be prepared to wait in
experiences, the mountains can be best enjoyed on foot or summer. €€
WHERE TO STAY IN DEIÀ
La Residencia Es Molí Hotel Hotel Des Puig

Luxury hotel set in beautifully Four-star comforts in a former Charming village hotel with
landscaped gardens country estate turned hotel; has mountain views, pools and
overlooking the village. €€€ its own cove and also a pool, terraces. €€
restaurants and gardens. €€
89

PROSLGN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
BEST WALKS
Sóller to Deià
WESTERN MALLORCA
(Easy, four hours) –

part of the GR221 Dry
Stone Wall route.
Puig des Teix
(Medium, 41/2 hours)
– the old Path of the
Archduke, 14km from
Valldemossa.
Puig de Galatzo Road to Sa Calobra
(Medium, four hours)
– take the route from bike. It’s incredibly popular for cycling because of the chal-
Estellencs through lenging steep terrain, the mild climate for much of the year
the forests, with and the wonderful scenery en route. The mountains are also
panoramic views paradise for hiking and increasingly for those seeking rock
along the way. climbing, canyoning, coasteering and psicobloc (solo climb-
Fita del Ram ing over water) experiences.
(Easy, 11/2 hours) – Walking routes are mainly well signposted and local com-
ascent from Esporles panies such as Mallorca Hiking can match you with a hiking
to the Ermita and group or tailor-made experience to suit your experience level.
viewpoints beyond. Spring and autumn are fine times of year for these outdoor
pursuits. Summer is often too hot to make hiking comfort-
able. Along the way are a series of mountain refuges, so should
you seek to attempt all (or part) of the demanding 80km An-
dratx to Pollença walking route over the Tramuntana, there
are places to stay en route.
One of the great pleasures of coastal hikes are scrambles
down to the rocks or shore to swim in hidden calas. Mallor-
ca’s limestone crags make for incredible climbing excursions
and this sport is growing in popularity on the island. Horse
riding is another option too, with stables near Bunyola, and
treks in the mountain foothills.
WHERE TO EAT IN SERRA DE TRAMUNTANA
Es Guix Sa Foradada Es Verger

Stone-house restaurant in Cliffside rustic vibes, paella Rustic dining on mountain road
forest with natural pool, on the dining with incredible views; to Castell d’Alaró. €
Sóller to Pollença road near the short hike down helps work
the Monestir de Lluc. €€ up an appetite. €€
90

ANDRATX & THE
SOUTHWEST
Andratx
THE GUIDE
# ^ Palma
Inland Andratx is the largest town in the southwest of Mal-

lorca. With its pleasant, easy-going vibe, its interesting CCA
gallery, and ready access to the nearby mountains and coast,
Andratx makes a good base. Nearby Port d’Andratx, a once-
WESTERN MALLORCA
tranquil fishing harbour, is now a glitzier international yachting GETTING ORIENTATED
hub with a promenade full of restaurants, shops and galleries. While Andratx (45 minutes’
Along the coast here is Cala Llamp, a pleasant get-away-from- drive from Palma) can
it spot. Further along towards Palma is the Cap de Cala Figuera be reached by bus from
and Cala Portals Vells, with crystalline waters and small san- Palma (one hour), to really
dy coves backed by ancient caves. Sant Elm, another low-key discover this area car hire
is the best option. Hiking
resort, has alleyways running down to the sea, rows of bou- and cycling routes are also
tiques and popular restaurants, ice-cream parlours and cafes. feasible. Alternatively,
You can set your sights on exploring the Serra de Tramuntana discover this side of island
from Andratx, and there are plenty of hiking trails around Puig life from the sea by boat.
de Galatzò. Take the Ma10 for a drive with dramatic coastal views.
Sandy Stays in the Southwest

E X PLO R I N G CA L AS A N D H I D D E N C OV ES
There are plenty of quieter coves or calas to enjoy in the south-

west. Take a favourite book, pack a picnic, bring a sense of CCA ANDRATX
adventure and some good footwear for scrambling over rocky
outcrops to discover some lesser-known gems. Visit the CCA Andratx
Art Centre in Andratx
In Calvia (25 minutes’ drive from Andratx), Cala Portals to see one of Europe´s
Vells is a beautiful bay of turquoise water and pine trees with largest contemporary
ancient caves to explore. There is parking nearby (as long as art centres. Ranging
you arrive early). Or try Platje del Rei – close to Magaluf, from international to
yet a world away. More popular is Platje de Mago, a bit of a local artists, there are
exhibitions throughout
steep descent down to reach it, but worthwhile for the sandy
the year. An artist-in-
beach and incredible views. It’s a good spot for snorkelling or residence programme
diving. Follow the steps through the shady trees of Sol de Mal- runs with four studios
lorca to make your way down to Caló de sa Nostra Dama, a available to artists for
perfect cove of clear water and white sand. Cala Llamp, with short residencies, open
its rock overhang, is a gorgeous spot to sunbathe by the sea. to both international
and local artists,
Just 2km from Port d’Andratx, this tranquil idyll has a back- and the gallery
drop of pine forests and limestone cliffs curving round be- houses a lively mix of
hind the cove. Just above sits the fabulous Gran Folies Beach painting, sculpture,
Club with a saltwater pool and food served all day. Rent a photographic work and
llaüt, one of the traditional Mallorcan boats, to explore these installations.
coves from the water.
Over in peaceful Sant Elm (20 minutes’ drive from Andratx),
Cala Conills is a rocky cove with rock pools and shelves that
91

ANDRATX & THE SOUTHWEST
THE GUIDE
Sa Dragonera
1
WESTERN MALLORCA
Ĥ Sant Elm S'Arracó

8
Ù
#
Andratx
Ĥ2
Ù
#
Port
d'Andratx Es Camp
Ù
#
de Mar
#
P
ħ Cala
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#
ħ3
Fornells
Mediterranean
Sea
92

e 00 2.5 miles
5 km
HIGHLIGHTS
1 Sa Dragonera
SIGHTS
2 Andratx
THE GUIDE
#
Ù
Galilea
3 Cala Llamp
4 Cala Portals Vells
5 Caló de sa Nostra Dama
6 Platje de Mago
7 Platje del Rei
8 Sant Elm
WESTERN MALLORCA
#
Ù
Es Capdellà
#
Ù
Calvià
#
Peguera
Ù
#
Cala
ells
#
Ù
Costa de
Sa Calma
Magaluf
Ù
#
#
Ù
Santa
Ponça
#
Ù
Sa Porrassa
#
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El Toro
Sol de
Mallorca ħ5
#
Ù
ħ7
6ħ
Portals Ù# ħ 4
Vells
93

DENIS ZHITNIK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
WHY I LOVE
WESTERN MALLORCA
TRAMUNTANA
ROUTES
Laura McVeigh, writer

There is something
simply magical about
the light and energy of
this part of the island,
and one of my favourite
pastimes is to hike
along these varied
Tramuntana routes
– there is something
for all levels of hiker,
and the landscapes
and terrain are varied
and spectacular. The
views in particular
from La Trapa over Sa Dragonera
to Sa Dragonera are
breathtaking and you
jut out into the sea. It’s a beautiful spot for snorkelling, div-
have a sense of the
island history in the ing or simply catching the sunset with views across to tiny
old buildings and ruins Illa Pantaleu and Sa Dragonera island.
along the way while
surrounded by the
island’s natural beauty.
Tramuntana Trails
These hikes are a short S O M E I C O N I C H I K I N G RO U T ES
drive from the city life Andratx makes a fine base for a hiking holiday with some fab-
of Palma, yet feel like a ulous trails easily accessed from the town. One of the most
world away.
scenic in the Balearics is La Trapa, which can be hiked as a
WHERE TO EAT NEAR ANDRATX
Restaurant Cala Cala Cap Falcó Restaurant Illetes,

Conills, Sant Elm Small but perfectly formed Camp de Mar
One for seafood fans with chiringuito offering fresh fish, Atmospheric and gorgeous spot
incredible views and efficient, local dishes and cool drinks on for paella, seafood and sangria.
professional service. €€ the beach. € Magical sunset views. €€
94

three- to four-hour circular route to and from Sant Elm. La
Trapa is a ruined Trappist monastery, and the winding path BEST STAYS
through a nature reserve takes you high up the edge of the
coast, passing ancient ruins until reaching the monastery with Finca Ses
its incredible views down over Sa Dragonera island. It is best Fontanelles, Andratx
THE GUIDE
tackled in the spring or autumn months to avoid the heat. Rustic finca with
Another iconic circular route is the 13km Camí de S’Arx- laid-back island
iduc from Valldemossa, taking in amazing coastline views – style; caters to long
distance hikers too.
it is best walked on a clear day. It was a favourite of the Arch-
There is a kitchen for
duke Ludwig Salvator, who was captivated by Mallorca and
self-catering. €
its nature and traditions.
Another gem is the Camí des Correu, which leads through Finca Hotel Son
the oak trees and forests between Esporles and Banyalbufar. Pont, Puigpunyent
WESTERN MALLORCA
Beautiful grounds
The track dates back to 1401 and offers shady hiking to pro-
with mountain vistas,
tect from the heat. Cool off at the end at Cala Banyalbufar, a pool and outdoor
and check times in advance to catch a 202 bus back to your breakfasts; excellent
starting point. The trail is part of the GR221 Dry Stone Wall base for hikers and
route, and is an easy walk – one suitable for all the family. cyclists. €€
Punt Blanc, Sant Elm
Sa Dragonera Set by the sea and
U N I N H A B I T E D I S L A N D R ES E RV E beach in sleepy
A nature reserve shaped like the back of a sleeping dragon, Sant Elm looking
out over to Sa
there is a touch of Jurassic Park to this little-discovered is-
Dragonera island,
land off the coast of Mallorca. this self-catering
In the past Sa Dragonera has played home to smugglers option is a friendly
and was used by pirates, planning their attacks on Mallorca. and welcoming
These days it is an uninhabited natural park renowned for guesthouse. €
its wildlife and the variety of its plant life. In addition to a
Zafiro Palace Andratx
large colony of falcons, it is also home to wall lizards, often Upscale, smart five-
seen as a symbol of Mallorca. There are two watchtowers on star option, with chic
the island and two lighthouses, and next to the islets of Es decor and multitude
Pantaleu and Sa Mitjana it is a protected conservation area. of swimming pool
There are waymarked trails to either end of the 4km-long is- options. €€€
land or you can climb the Puig des Far Vell (325m).
Castell Son Claret,
To visit, book a crossing with a boat from Sant Elm (20-minute Es Capdellà
crossing) or from Port d’Andratx. Ferries usually run Febru- High-end
ary to November. Make sure to pack a picnic, sun cream, hats, accommodation in
sunglasses and bring plenty of water. Be respectful of the is- converted castle. €€€
land environment. Alternatively you can also explore the is- Hotel Petit
lets by kayak from Sant Elm. Cala Fornells
Quaint and charming
old-school vibes at
this four-star hotel
by the sea with
restaurants, pools,
spa and gardens. €€
WHERE TO FIND VIEWS
Mirador de Ricardo Roca Puig de Galatzó, Galilea Mirador de Cap Andritxol

On the Ma-10 between Andratx Reaching over 1000m, Puig From Camp de Mar beach,
and Estellencs, climb up the de Galatzó offers an exciting follow Camí Salina for a climb
stone staircase cut into the cliffs ascent for hikers from up the rocky path to this
to reach a stone table at the top. Puigpunyent or Estellencs. mirador and its watchtower.
95

THE GUIDE
NORTHERN
NORTHERN MALLORCA
MALLORCA
ROMAN RUINS AND BLISSFUL BEACHES
Explore the island’s Roman past, wander along medieval
city walls and whitewashed lanes, and windsurf, sail or
just soak up the sun on endless beaches.
The many natural charms of this on the outskirts of Alcúdia’s old town.
region have long attracted Take a seat in the rock-hewn am-
visitors. In 1929 the icon- phitheatre or wander through
ic Hotel Formentor was ruined temples. Fast for-
built on the Cap de For- ward to medieval times,
mentor – with no road and explore Alcúdia’s
access, early guests parapet city walls.
arrived by boat to the Visit during one of
stone jetty. This priv- the traditional island
ileged paradise be- festivals or simply
came a playground of come in search of the
the rich and famous. miles of sandy beach
Guests included Grace and turquoise waters.
Kelly, F Scott Fitzgerald, Enjoy the wide range of ac-
Audrey Hepburn and Win- tive adventures on offer. Cy-
ston Churchill. Literary gather- cle Cap de Formentor, follow the
ings attracted writers and artists such hiking trails in Cap des Pinar or bird-
as Camilo José Cela and Jorge Luis Borges. watch in Parc Natural de S’Albufera. Seek
Go further back in time in Pol·lèntia, the out hidden coves or go in search of a spir-
once Roman capital city of the Balearics, itual connection in a former monastery.
THE MAIN AREAS
POLLENÇA ALCÚDIA
Charming and historic town. p102 Enchanting medieval walled town. p107
96
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NORTHERN MALLORCA
ARTBBNV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Playa del Muro (p111)

97

Cap de
e00 2 miles
5 km
Formentor
Cases
Velles
#
Ù
THE GUIDE
#
Ù
Ca'n Es Faro
Cala Sant
#
Ù Vicenç
Port de Ù# Port de
Pollença ħ Pollença
Badia de
NORTHERN MALLORCA
Pollença Cap des

Pinar
Ù
#
Pollença
Sa Marina Ù# Bonaire
#
Ù
#
Ù
Mal Pas
Pollença, p102 Alcúdia
#
This cultural hub is Pol·lèntia S
home to a charming
old town. Climb the Port
365 Calvari stone steps d'Alcúdia Ù# #
Ù
Alcanada
for beautiful views, Cova de
then recover in the Sant Martí
sandstone, cafe-lined
squares below.
Platges de
Mallorca
Parc #
Ù
Natural de
S'Albufera Badia
d'Alcúdia
Ca'n
#
Sa Pobla Picafort
#
Ù
#
Ù
Son
Bauló
Finca
CAR BUS Pública de Son Serra
Son Real de MarinaÙ#
Hiring a car to explore at The region is easily accessed
your own pace is the easiest from Palma by bus. The
way to navigate this part of service is frequent, and local
the island. However, some services connect the main
areas are very congested towns along the northern
with traffic in high summer, coast.
so seek out alternatives by
local bus if travelling during Son DoblonsÙ#
this time.
98 VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, BALATE DORIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Cap de
mentor
Find Your Way
THE GUIDE
Northern Mallorca is home to glorious coastal stretches of white-
sand beaches and azure waters, majestic headlands, mountain
peaks and marinas. Rich in history and cultural connections, it
is also a natural paradise with plenty of opportunities for hiking,
NORTHERN MALLORCA
ap des
Pinar cycling and exploring.
Alcúdia, p107
In the pretty medieval old town,
wrapped in imposing city walls, a
maze of narrow cobbled streets Mediterranean
brims with boutiques and cafes; Sea
the town springs to life on market
days.
Cap
Ferrutx
adia
cúdia
Punta
des Caló
Ù
#
S'Arena et
des Verger
Betlem Parc Natural
Ù
# de la Península
de Llevant
n Serra Colònia de BICYCLE

Marina SantÙ# Pere
Ù
#
S'Estanyol The train from Palma
currently only reaches as
Ù
# Ù
#
Son Morell
Vell far as Inca and Muro inland.
However, if you’re cycling
and have your own wheels,
then taking the train and
Ses continuing your journey by
Pastoras bike becomes an option and
onsÙ# Ù
#
a good way to explore the

Artà coast.
#
99

Plan Your Pressed for Time
THE GUIDE
Time ● Visit either Pollença or Alcúdia

for old-world charm, and tour
nearby Pol·lèntia. Both inland
In the summer months, heed the towns are compact and easily
siren call of the beach and enjoy walkable with a range of notable
the traditional festivals. During sites. In Pollença (p102), visit the
NORTHERN MALLORCA
shoulder seasons, make the most churches, climb the 365 Calvari
steps (avoid the midday sun and
of the incredible birdwatching,
bring water) and pop into the local
hiking and cycling opportunities.
artists’ studios. In Alcúdia (p107),
walk the medieval city walls for
stunning views. Visit Pol·lèntia
(p107), the ruins of the one-time
Roman capital of the Balearics,
for a fascinating insight into the
island’s Roman past. The small
museum housed nearby in the
VIDEO MEDIA STUDIO EUROPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
city walls holds an interesting

collection of excavation finds.
Santuari de la Mare de Déu des Puig (p105)
Seasonal
Highlights
Summer is really beach
season here. Save the JANUARY MARCH/APRIL MAY
hiking and cycling to Festes de Sant Antoni During Holy Week Sample a wide
the shoulder months. is celebrated with thousands attend a collection of Balearic
It all gets very quiet bonfires and a blessing moving Davallament wines at Pollença Wine
over the winter with of animals on the night (the re-enactment of Fair.
many shops and cafes of 16 January. the descent from the
cross) in Pollença.
closing.
100 ANDRIS BARBANS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ZIXIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, HBPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE GUIDE
● Base yourself either in Pollença ● Explore at a slower pace and
or Alcúdia, or at one of the beach head off the beaten track. Colònia
hotels (where parking is easier). de Sant Pere (p112) can offer an
Organise a boat excursion to see alternative (quieter, small-scale)
the island from the water, and go base close to pleasant beaches
NORTHERN MALLORCA
snorkelling or explore caves. In with horse riding, surfing and wind-
shoulder season follow a hiking and kitesurfing opportunities.
trail on Cap des Pinar (p110) or Explore the spiritual side of the
Cap de Formentor (p104), and island and hike to the Santuari de
take a dip in one of the hidden la Mare de Déu des Puig (p105),
coves off these headlands. where you can stay overnight in a
Spend a day at the beach – book converted cell within the former
a surfing or windsurfing lesson, nunnery. Cycling is very popular
hire a paddleboard or kayak, or in this part of the island; the local
join a game of beach volleyball. tourist office can advise on best
For the less energetic, there’ll routes. Stay at one of the more
be a straw parasol waiting for inland agroturismos or country
you in a nearby beach bar or estates for a different experience
chiringuito (temporary shack bar or of island life.
restaurant).
JUNE AUGUST AUGUST NOVEMBER

Sant Pere festival is an Street parties, music Pollença Classical Fira de sa Carabassa
evocative event with and mock battles Music and Arts in Muro is an autumnal
music, a craft market, fill Pollença for the Festival brings an pumpkin fair,
folk dancing and a legendary La Patrona exciting programme of celebrating seasonal
procession of boats lit Festival. arts events through this home-grown crops.
up to celebrate. summer month.
RITIKUK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, NEME_JIMENEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LD MEDIA UK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, GIOIA PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK © 101

Pollença #
POLLENÇA ^ Palma
THE GUIDE
With its glorious arching bay and the stunning promontory

of Cap de Formentor, Pollença and its surrounding area is one
of the prettiest parts of Mallorca. The town itself is a warren
of 16th- and 17th-century buildings constructed around the
originally medieval, now mostly baroque, church that stands GETTING ORIENTATED
in the main square, the Plaça Major.
Pollença buzzes with boutiques, galleries and cafe-life in Pollença is connected
NORTHERN MALLORCA
to Palma with a daily bus

the summer months, and there’s a vibrant events calendar service. The 340 runs direct
with the torchlit Davallament on Good Friday down the 365 (taking 45 minutes), then
Calvari steps; the Festes de la Patrona (townsfolk dress up continues on to Port de
as pirates or villagers staging mock battles) in August; and Pollença. Hire a car to travel
long-running summer arts festival Festival de Pollença, which around the north of the
stages concerts, film screenings and exhibitions at the Sant island. Parking by the main
beach resorts is usually
Domingo cloister. The area draws artists and creatives, and straightforward but for out-
over the years has provided inspiration to writers such as Ag- of-the-way beaches check
atha Christie, Camilo José Cela and Miquel Costa i Llobera. parking in advance. Arrive
early in high season.
Walking Tour in Pollença

E X PLO R E T H E O L D TOW N
WATER SPORTS Start at the Sant Domingo cloister, which hosts the packed
IN POLLENÇA annual summer arts festival programme of classical concerts,
exhibitions and events. This baroque church and convent dates
Scuba Mallorca back to 1558. Within the convent is the Museu de Pollença,
For diving trips in the which houses a vibrant collection of modern art upstairs.
bay and by Formentor.
There is also a colourful Buddhist mandala made from co-
Offers some 20
different diving loured sand, donated to the town in 1990 by the Dalai Lama.
courses. Outside in the Joan March gardens stands a medieval watch-
Tramuntana Diving & tower, which would have used fire to signal incoming invaders.
Adventure Company A short stroll up past the Plaça Major takes you to Esglé-
For scuba diving, sia de la Mare de Déu dels Àngels, an imposing sandstone
free diving, stand-up baroque church with a richly decorated interior and a fres-
paddleboard and coed ceiling. It was established in 1229 at the time of the con-
adventure activities quest, but was largely rebuilt in the 18th century. Next make
including canyoning,
your way up the 365 cypress tree–lined stone steps of Calvari
cliff jumping and
kayaking. (best attempted on a cool day) to the simple hilltop church,
Església del Calvari. Beautiful views over the town to the
Mallorca
coast take in the Cap de Formentor, Puerto Pollença and Puer-
Kiteboarding
For kiteboarding hire to d’Alcúdia. On the way up the steps is the Museu Martí
and lessons (also Vicenç; the works of this weaver and artist are on display in
paddle surf, windsurf, the rooms. Further art, including etchings, watercolours and
kayak and wing foil). oil paintings, can be found at the former home of local artist
Dionís Bennàssar at Casa-Museu Dionís Bennàssar. For a
walking tour with explanations of local history, stop in at the
102 tourist office to book.

HIGHLIGHTS 10 Sail & Surf 5 km
e00 2.5 miles
1 Port de Pollença Pollença
2 Santuari de la 11 Scuba Mallorca
Mare de Déu des 4
SLEEPING Mediterranean
Puig E
12 Hotel Formentor Sea
SIGHTS
3 Ca’n Cap de Bou Cap de
13-northern-mallorca-mao6.indd 103
Formentor
4 Cap de
Formentor Cases
Ù
#
5 Plaça Major Velles
ACTIVITIES,
COURSES & Ca'n Es
TOURS Faro
Ù
#
6 365 Calvari Steps Cala Sant 12
7 Badia de Vicenç
Ù
#
Pollença
8 KayakMallorca
9 Mallorca
Port de 1 Port de
Kiteurfing Pollença ħ Pollença
Ù
#
11
Cala Pi
8 Łł 10
7
ħ3 Badia de
Pollença Cap des
Pinar
Ù
#
Pollença
6
Đ 5 ł9
G S'Illot
2 Santuari de la Ù
# Sa Marina
Y Mare de Déu Ù
# Bonaire
Port de Pollença
des Puig Ù
#
Mal Pas
ALASTAIR WALLACE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
#
2/1/2023 9:54:08 AM
NORTHERN MALLORCA THE GUIDE
103
Exploring Cap de Formentor
W I L D B E AU T Y O N T H E I S L A N D ' S E D G E
Travel to the northernmost point of Mallorca, exploring the

20km peninsula of Cap de Formentor on a winding road
THE GUIDE
through pine forests and by limestone cliffs with stunning

views at every turn. Bring your camera and stop off at the
Mirador del Mal Pas (also known as Mirador des Colomer
BEST COVES and Mirador de Sa Creueta), the Albercutx Watchtower and
ON CAP DE the lighthouse at the tip of the cape for magical photogra-
FORMENTOR phy opportunities. In summer months the twisting, and in
places narrow, road does get very congested at times (even
Cala Figuera being subject to access restrictions at peak periods). An al-
NORTHERN MALLORCA
On the wilder ternative is to take a boat from Port de Pollença to Platja de

northern side of the
Formentor, a narrow strip of golden sand backed by pine for-
peninsula (it’s a steep
ests in a secluded bay. The shallow water makes this a great
descent to access),
this cove offers fine spot for families, and paddleboards and kayaks can be hired
snorkelling. to explore the rocky coastline. This is the site of Hotel For-
mentor, a grand dame of hotels currently being completely
Cala Murta
redeveloped by the Four Seasons hotel group. The original
Fjord-like with its
turquoise clear
hotel played host to figures such as Winston Churchill, Char-
waters. Follow the lie Chaplin, Ava Gardner, Audrey Hepburn, F Scott Fitzgerald
trail signs from the and Elizabeth Taylor among many others.
Cala Figuera car park
to find it. Waves & Water Sports
Cala Boquer B E AC H A DV E N T U R ES I N P O RT D E P O L L E N ÇA
Closer to Pollença Port de Pollença is a quieter beach resort set on the Badia
port (follow the trail de Pollença with the majestic backdrop of the Cap de For-
through pines and
mentor. The long Pine Walk promenade is backed by cafes,
maquis), it offers clear
and there is a marina for sailing enthusiasts. The long, san-
waters and a peaceful
cove with only the dy beach is a favourite with families. The prettiest stretches
occasional wild goat of beach are located to the north of town; towards the south,
for company. in the direction of Alcúdia, both breezy Ca’n Cap de Bou and
Sa Marina prove popular with kitesurfers and windsurfers.
Scuba divers will love the Badia de Pollença, home to ma-
rine life including starfish, sea urchins, octopuses, rays and
schools of barracuda, plus caves to explore. Scuba Mallor-
ca offers Try Dive trips and a wide range of longer courses.
For those interested in learning to sail or surf, Sail & Surf
Pollença has you covered with short courses in surfing,
windsurfing and sailing available. If you are keen on kay-
aking then KayakMallorca on Playa de la Gola organis-
es trips and courses, in addition to renting out kayaks and
paddleboards. Kitesurfing lessons are available with Mal-
lorca Kitesurfing.
WHERE TO STAY
Can Aulí Hotel Juma Illa d’Or Hotel

A magnificent restored A charming, family-run hotel in Offers 1920s charm mixed
mansion house with a peaceful the old town, centrally located with modern amenities in a
garden and pool. Tasteful, and offering a cosy, authentic picturesque setting with its own
soothing serenity. €€€ Mallorcan welcome. €€ private beach and jetty. €€€
104

GIOVANNI G/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
NORTHERN MALLORCA
FILM LOCATIONS
ON CAP DE
FORMENTOR
Cloud Atlas starring
Tom Hanks, Susan
Sarandon and Halle
Berry was shot in part
on the Formentor
peninsula (as well as
Sa Calobra and Port
de Sóller).
Me Before You
Lighthouse at Cap de Formentor
starring Emilia Clarke
and Sam Claflin was
Find Sanctuary filmed on Formentor
V I S I T A FO R M E R N U N N E RY beach (doubling
for Mauritius in the
Visit the Santuari de la Mare de Déu des Puig, a former nun- movie).
nery, dating from the 14th century and set high above Pollença
on the Puig de Maria (Mary’s Mountain; 333m). The drive The television
up is only for the brave, with over 1.5km of tortuous hairpin adaptation of John
bends. Take it slow and steady. Alternatively, hike up through le Carré’s novel,
the pine and oak woods and olive groves. The hike, from the The Night Manager,
Repsol garage on the Pollença road, takes around an hour, starring Tom
but wear sturdy footwear as the path is rocky towards the Hiddleston, Olivia
top and can be slippery underfoot. It's best done when the Coleman and Hugh
weather is cooler, and remember to bring water for the walk. Laurie, was filmed
The sandstone monastery sits looking out over the Tra- in various locations
around the island
muntana, the bays of Pollença and Alcúdia, and all the way
including Cap de
to Cap de Formentor. Enjoy the breathtaking views before ex- Formentor.
ploring the Santuari itself. The nuns first came here in 1371
WHERE TO EAT
Restaurant Celler El Molí Il Giardino Son Brull

For seafood paella, grilled A popular choice on the main Michelin-starred restaurant
prawns and lemon pie. A firm square with terrace and Italian offering fine Mallorcan dining
favourite. € fare. Kids love its chocolate with exceptional service. A real
shop next door. €€ treat. €€€
105

NATALIYA SCHIMDT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
NORTHERN MALLORCA
WHY I LOVE
PUIG DE MARIA

Magical corners of
the island like this
enchant me with their
natural beauty and
sense of history. You
feel a million miles
away from the more
touristy side of island
life, and it’s a chance
to connect to nature
Alcúdia's city walls
and enjoy a simpler,
more spiritual moment.
The views make for
and stayed, despite the entreaties of the Bishop of Palma.
stunning sunset or
sunrise photography They eventually moved to Palma in 1576. There is a Gothic
and there is something chapel, refectory, kitchen, and a simple cafe serving hearty
so incredibly peaceful local dishes such as paella, pa amb oli (bread with oil), tor-
about this place – the tilla, or cargols (snails) served with aioli. Smells of incense
perfect spot for a and wood smoke pervade.
‘reset’. Just leave the
car at the bottom of
If you choose to stay the night, a converted spartan cell
Mary’s Mountain! awaits. If travelling with a group, call and book in advance,
letting the kitchen know so that they can order in enough
breakfast and supper. Get up early to catch the sunrise before
making your way back down to busy island life once more.
WHERE TO FIND SANCTUARIES
Sanctuary of Lluc Sanctuary of Nostra Senyora Sanctuary of Puig

Between Pollença and Sóller; de Cura on Puig de Randa de Sant Salvador
famous for its Blauets choir. An inspirational place for Dating from the 14th century
philosopher and writer Ramon with more recent 20th century
Lull. additions and incredible views.
106

ALCÚDIA
# Alcúdia
THE GUIDE
^ Palma
Alcúdia combines history, with its inland old town, and the
beach, with its location near to the Port d’Alcúdia. Created in
1298 by King Jaume II of Aragon, Alcúdia's imposing sand-
stone city walls surround a warren of narrow cobbled alley-
ways full of interesting shops, galleries, cafes and restaurants.
It is also home to several stunning boutique townhouse hotels GETTING ORIENTATED
and grand mansions (see the impressive carvings on Ca’n Can-
NORTHERN MALLORCA
Alcúdia is easily accessible
ta or Ca’n Fondo). Alcúdia's charms draw many visitors, par- from Palma by bus, but if
ticularly on busy market days (Tuesday and Sunday, held in you plan to travel further
Passeig Mare de Déu de la Victòria) or key festival days. The afield car hire is advisable. It
Fira festival is held on the first weekend in October with tradi- is also easy to travel by bus
tional parades, costumes and music, plus celebratory harvest between the main beach
resorts and the old towns of
foods. With its splendid beaches and larger-scale hotels , Port
Alcúdia and Pollença. Travel
d’Alcúdia draws visitors in search of a beach holiday, catering around the headlands by
both for water-sport adventures and reclining on a sunloung- hiking or cycling to really
er. Shoulder season is a fine time to strike out on incredible experience the wild natural
hiking trails, explore nearby natural park S’Albufera, or dis- beauty of this part of the
cover quieter corners of the coastline. island.
Roman Ruins & Ancient History CITY WALLS

E X PLO R E T H E A N C I E N T RO M A N TOW N O F P O L· L È N T I A Constructed during the
Spanish Conquest in
Ranging over a sizeable (but walkable) area, the fascinating ru- 1298, when King Jaume
ins of the Roman town of Pol·lèntia lie just outside Alcúdia's II of Aragon set about
walls. Here you can explore the ancient archaeological site creating the new town
of what was once the Roman capital of the Balearic Islands. of Alcúdia, imposing
Founded in 123 BCE, Pol·lèntia was Rome's principal city in sandstone walls
surround what is now
Mallorca and is the most important archaeological site on the known as the old town
island. Pol·lèntia (meaning ‘powerful’ in Latin) held strategic of Alcúdia. They form
geographic importance due to its position along trade and na- a polygon shape with
val routes in the west of the Mediterranean. a 1.5km perimeter and
Excavations show that Pol·lèntia was a well-resourced city, feature 26 towers and
four entrance points:
with running water and sewage systems. You can walk around
Porta de Xara to the
the old-time residential area of La Portella with its remaining north, Porta de Mallorca
columns, foundations and walls of domus (houses). A small to the south, Porta de la
bronze head of a young girl was discovered in what is now Vila Roja to the north-
called Casa del Cap de Bronze. Visit El Forum, the mar- west, and La Portella
ket place and town square with the remains of three temples next to the Church of
Sant Jaume. A moat
and tabernae (shops). On the outskirts of the city is a stone-
originally surrounded
sculpted Roman theatre, close to the Puerto Romano. In the walled town. Stone
August open-air events are held in this rock amphitheatre. staircases lead to the
A small museum nearby holds finds from the excavation, parapet walkway where
including coins, jewellery, sculpture and other artefacts. A you can follow the Camí
tour of Pol·lèntia gives a fascinating insight into part of the de Ronda route, which
has excellent views.
island’s Roman past; visitors are also free to wander among
107

e 00 1 mile
2 km
11
v
THE GUIDE
Badia de
Pollença
4
ħ Y7
ħ3
NORTHERN MALLORCA
E 10
44 ħ
9
44 Medieval
Walls
G1
2S
Pol·lèntia
Ĩ8
444
Ń 12 Badia
d'Alcúdia
444
444
4 HIGHLIGHTS
1 Medieval Walls
SIGHTS
3 Cala Gii
7 Ermita de La Victòria
8 Hidropark Alcúdia
ACTIVITIES, COURSES
& TOURS
2 Pol·lèntia 4 Cala Victòria 9 Platja des Coll Baix 11 Cap des Pinar
5 Ca’n Canta 10 Talaia d’Alcúdia 12 Port d’Alcúdia
6 Ca’n Fondo
the ruins. In the neighbouring Pol·lèntia Museum, you can see excavation find sin-
cluding coinage, jewellery, sculptures and ceramics.
There is a large car park just next to the site and tickets can be bought from the tick-
et office at the entrance. The museum is just across the way in the ancient city walls
of Alcúdia.
WHERE TO STAY
Forum Boutique Hotel & Spa Hotel Can Mostatxins Can Simó Petit Hotel
Located in the old town. It Combines modern and Only seven rooms in a
offers four-star attentive medieval eras in a tastefully renovated 19th-century manor
service and a peaceful stay in restored townhouse in the old house with an excellent
airy, elegant rooms. €€ town; has only nine rooms. €€€ restaurant. €€€
108

ENGEL.AC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
QUIET COVES
THE GUIDE
IN ALCÚDIA
Playa de S’Illot,
opposite the tiny
island of S’Illot, is a
small sandy bay with
shallow water. You
can walk across to
the island when the
NORTHERN MALLORCA
water is low, or swim
across. Perfect spot
for gentle swims and
snorkelling.
Illa d’Alcanada is
another tiny island
with a beach and
lighthouse just
opposite the Platja
Platja des Coll Baix (p110) d’Alcanada.
Sailing & Surfing Es Faralló is a

S E AS I D E DAYS I N P O RT D’A LC Ú D I A
tranquil, rocky cove.
Bring your snorkelling
While the charming inland town of Alcúdia offers historical gear to enjoy the
and cultural points of interest, along with plenty of boutique marine life. This cove
shopping in its maze of cobbled alleyways and quaint squares, is about a 1km walk
the resort area of Port d’Alcúdia is a water sport enthusi- along from Platja
ast’s paradise. The white-sand Blue Flag beach stretches for d’Alcanada. Above
miles from the marina and fishing harbour. It is backed by the cliff is the Museu
palm trees, a walkway and beach chiringuitos. Sa Bassa Blanca, a
Learn to sail, windsurf or kitesurf. Local outfit Wind & wonderful modern
Friends runs beginners’ windsurfing courses over three or art collection and
five days, including for children, as well as offering kayak and sculpture park.
paddleboard rental. Alcudiamar Sports & Nature also pro-
vides PADI courses in diving, along with sailing, windsurfing,
kayak rental and tours, plus boat trips to explore nearby sea
caves. For more adventures, Més Aventura organises coast-
eering trips with cliff-jumping, abseiling, climbing, swimming
and deep-water soloing.
Nearby is Hidropark Alcúdia, a water park with slides, a
splash area for little ones, and a wave pool; it's perfect for kids.
WHERE TO BOOK ADVENTURES
Món Aventura North Coast Adventure Tramuntana Diving

Guided excursions and For boat excursions and kayak and Adventure
adventure activities with this hire. For adventures including
popular local outfit. canyoning, trekking, cliff
jumping and kayak excursions.
109

WILM IHLENFELD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
WE LIVE HERE
NORTHERN MALLORCA
Angélica and Llucía

Cantarellas, sisters
and born islanders, live
in their family home in
Bonaire, near Alcúdia,
when not studying at
university or working
abroad. They share Cap des Pinar
their favourite local
experiences.
Sunsets
Discover the Cap des Pinar
Named one of the G E T O FF T H E B E AT E N T R AC K
most beautiful towns With some of the most spectacular island scenery in the re-
in Spain, Alcúdia is a gion, Aleppo pine–filled Cap des Pinar juts out majestically
place we love to visit,
especially to watch
into the sea beyond Mal Pas and Bonaire. It is an island gem
the incredible sunsets for walkers, with gorgeous trails to discover. The Ermita de
from the Ermita de La la Victòria can act as a no-frills base for a walking holiday
Victòria. in the area. While the headland is off-limits due to being mil-
Swimming itary land, the rest of the cape can be explored.
We particularly love Heading beyond the smart sheltered marina of Bonaire,
the crystalline waters take the Victòria road towards the Ermita. From there, a
of the north-coast 30-minute hike through the pine forests takes you to the Ta-
beaches, where we laia d’Alcúdia, a 16th-century watchtower with 360- degree
spend many hours. We
go there to shake off
views, the bay of Pollença and Menorca in the distance. From
city living after being here you can descend to the pretty pebbly Platja des Coll
away from our island Baix set beneath the pine-covered cliffside. Other gems in-
home. clude Cala Victòria beach at the entrance to the nature re-
serve, and Cala Gii in Bonaire, a hidden-away bay with a
stone staircase leading down into the water. There is a nat-
ural stone arch, ladders and a tiny rock pool. To fuel up af-
ter all that hiking and swimming, head for the Mirador de
La Victòria near the Ermita – it offers rustic home cooking
(snails, grilled fish and rice dishes feature) with incredible
views of Cap de Formentor.
WHERE TO FIND ICE CREAM
Garrido Gelats Valls Giovanni L

With over 40 years of ice- Making ice cream for over 90 Italian-style gelato in Alcúdia’s
cream-making experience, find years in Pollença – orange, old town.
them in Paseo Marítimo and apricot, fig and lemon flavours,
Carrer del Moll in Alcúdia. made with fruit from their land.
110

Alcúdia
Alcúdia
#
THE GUIDE
Parc Natural
de S'Albufera
#
Colònia dee
Sant Pere
Pere
Beyond Alcúdia
#
NORTHERN MALLORCA
Heading south around the bay from Alcúdia
brings you first to the beautiful wetlands of Parc
Natural de S’Albufera, then on to the peaceful
village of Colònia de Sant Pere.
Beyond the resort-style hotels that line Playa del Alcúdia

lies the Parc Natural de S’Albufera (p112), a large wetland area GETTING ORIENTATED
providing a very different experience of island life away from The visitors centre
the beach cafes and sun loungers. A haven for birdwatchers, it within Parc Natural de
also offers a chance to discover part of the island at a slower S’Albufera is the trailhead
pace. Just next to the beautiful white sands of Playa del Muro, for several routes through
you can hike or cycle through the wetlands or birdwatch from the wetlands, a couple
one of the wooden bird hides scattered through the park. of which can be cycled.
Parc Natural de S’Albufera is a short 15-minute car jour- For exploring further
ney from Alcúdia. The drive from Alcúdia to Colònia de Sant along the coast, car hire is
Pere is around 40 minutes and takes you right round the Ba- recommended.
dia d’Alcúdia.
Egrets in Parc Natural de S’Albufera (p112)
MARTINEZ STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
111

S’Albufera Natural Park
I LIVE HERE
B I R DWATC H I N G I N T H E W E T L A N D S
The Parc Natural de S’Albufera covers over 20 sq km of wet

grassland and marsh, set between Port d’Alcúdia and Ca’n Pi-
THE GUIDE
cafort. It was deemed a natural park in 1988; however, rec-

ognition of the area's value dates back to ancient times. The
wetland setting of reeds, sedge, pondweed and hornwort draws
Javier Marín García over 300 species of birds – over 10,000 birds will overwinter
is a full-time hiking
each year in the park including ducks, herons and roosting
guide and founder of
mallorcamountains. starlings. The park is also home to eels, marsh frogs and vi-
com. He shares his perine snakes. The water feeds in from streams and under-
favourite island ground springs; the Gran Canal cuts through the heart of the
NORTHERN MALLORCA
adventure. park channelling the water out to the sea. Elms, tamarisks and
“Mallorca's natural and white poplars are the most common trees within the park area.
wild landscapes are There are 14km of trails signposted within the park with
marvellous, particularly different itineraries available, from a short half-hour route to
in the mountainous
a 11.5km trail. Some of the routes can be cycled. There are six
areas. It's difficult to
choose a favourite wooden aguaits (birdwatching hides) dotted around the park.
part of the island, but Visitors require an access permit from the visitor centre.
if I had to choose, it The park is open from 9am to 5pm daily, and to 6pm in sum-
would be Entreforc. mer months. Birdwatchers can enter the park a little earlier,
It is the intersection of just after sunrise. The visitor centre provides information on
two ravines, and the
source of a larger one,
the park’s birdlife and the trails through the wetland. Visit
Torrent de Pareis. It is during the spring months (April and May in particular) to
defined by limescale also see the wildflowers blooming.
walls almost 400m
high; looking up, you
can feel the grandeur of
The Calm Coast at
the place. Colònia de Sant Pere
It is here I have A G L I M P S E O F Q U I E T C OASTA L-V I L L AG E L I FE
had many authentic
adventures, above all Colònia de Sant Pere, named after the patron saint of fishers,
climbing its walls on is a tranquil one-time fishing village consisting of a central
the different slopes. In square, church and a small number of homes, cafes, bars and
one adventure we spent shops. It is a quiet, low-key place without the tourist crowds.
four days hanging
from the wall to finish There is a small marina and port, and the village beach of
a difficult and risky Platja de la Colònia de Sant Pere.
climb of 300m, which A promenade with shady tamarind trees runs along behind
culminated in reaching the stretch of beach. Continue 2.5km west and you’ll come to
the end of that sea of Platja de Sa Canova, a long sandy stretch of beach leading
limestone. An authentic
to Son Serra de Marina. The village of S’Estanyol reaches
adventure, surrounded
by very good company almost to Sa Conova beach. On windy days the beach is ide-
– because without that al for surfing, windsurfing or kitesurfing, and on calmer days
the challenge wouldn’t its shallow, clear water make it a good choice for families. For
have been possible!” cafes and restaurants here try Sonora Beach, Gospodaix,
SEN Chill Beach Bar, Es Vivers or Restaurante Playa.
WHERE TO SPOT WILDLIFE
Birds of Prey Reptiles and Amphibians Songbirds

Eleanora’s falcon, peregrine Frogs, lizards, snakes, Larks, hoopoes, warblers,
falcons, red kits, black salamanders and tortoises, finches, partridges, swifts,
vultures, eagles and owls. along with the endangered pipits and the nightingale.
ferreret (mountain toad).
112

BEST FOR
THE GUIDE
BIRDWATCHING
Parc Natural de
S’Albufera is a
wetland haven for
birdwatching.
Sa Dragonera nature
reserve has seabirds,
NORTHERN MALLORCA
including ospreys and
shags.
Península de
Formentor is home
to seabirds such as
Eleanora’s falcon.
Colònia de Sant
Jordi has salt pans,
which draw flamingos
and black-winged
stilts.
Gorg Blau offers

opportunities to spot
the rare black vulture
among the mountain
peaks.
Torrent de Pareis
WHERE TO STAY NEAR COLÒNIA DE SANT PERE
Petit Hotel Rocamar Apartamentos Ses Roquetes Agroturismo Can Pere Rei
Stylish, beautifully presented, Located in Ca'n Picafort; on the Child-friendly (they’ll love the
adults-only spot close to the beachfront, fresh design. €€ sheep and chickens), excellent
beach. €€ breakfasts, quiet spot. €
113

THE GUIDE
THE INTERIOR
CANGAVI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Cross of Sant Salvador near Santuari de Sant Salvador, Felanitx

THE MAIN AREAS
SANTA MARÍA BINISSALEM ALARÓ ORIENT
DEL CAMÍ Heart of the wine Castle in a mountain Remote Tramuntana
Charming, tranquil country. p120 setting. p121 village. p121
town. p120
114
14-interior-mao6.indd 114 2/1/2023 9:56:18 AM

THE GUIDE
THE
INTERIOR
THE INTERIOR
VINEYARDS AND
SOULFUL SANCTUARIES
Boasting sanctuaries with panoramic views, mountain refuges,
basement celler restaurants and vineyard tours, the towns and
villages of Mallorca's interior are perfect for a laid-back retreat.
For a more authentic experience of Mal- Island traditions are at their strongest in
lorcan life, explore sleepy sandstone vil- the interior of the island – one of the real
lages like Santa María del Camí with its pleasures of a visit can be to witness one
relaxed cafe culture, pleasant Alaró or of the lively island festivals like the Fes-
Orient, both excellent bases for ta des Vermar, the annual grape
CLAUF/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
hiking trips in the region, or harvest, or to simply browse

Binissalem, at the heart of the stalls of local crafts and
the wine route. products on market days.
Tour the vineyards, Sineu market (Wednes-
stay in local agrotur- day mornings) is the
ismos or some of the oldest, and one of the
fabulous fincas (ru- largest and most inter-
ral estates) tucked esting weekly markets
away down country on the island.
lanes. For a more spir- Visit in springtime for
itual stay, why not visit the wildflowers or au-
some of the soulful hilltop tumn for the harvest fes-
sanctuaries that are dotted tivals. Take it slowly touring
around the interior, like the the interior – there’s little sense
Santuari de Sant Salvador near to of urgency here.
Felanitx or the Santuari de Nostra Senyo-
ra de Cura in Randa.
MONTUÏRI SINEU PETRA

Pretty hilltop town. p123 Grand inland town. p125 Low-key village. p125
115

Mediterranean
Sea Alaró, p121
A pretty town in a mountain setting
Orient, p122 with spectacular views from its
THE GUIDE
castle, Castell d’Alaró. This small Coves de

In a remote mountain town has a distinct international Campanet
location, this rural community feel. Binibona u
village is a favourite for
Ù
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weekend lunches and Campanet

Ù
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hikes in the Tramuntana. #

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THE INTERIOR
Ù
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Inca
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Santa María Consell Jose Luis
del Camí, p120
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harvest festival with Ù
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TRAIN
There are two lines with
CAR BUS frequent trains from Palma:
Car hire gives full flexibility There are good connections one to Sa Pobla/Inca, the
for touring the interior of between Palma and the main other to Manacor. Santa
the island and allowing towns of Manacor and Inca. María del Camí, Binissalem,
you to stop along the way Other towns and villages Consell-Alaró, Muro, Sineu
easily, though if vineyard are also served with less and Petra are some of the
touring other non-driving frequent bus connections.
#
C
stops en route. Trains are
options may be preferable. cheap, clean and mostly
reliable.
116 SEBAS ADROVER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, VULCANO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, TOLOBALAGUER.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Ù
#
ħ
Find Your Way
THE GUIDE
s de
panet
u
panet
The interior covers a wide area, and harbours some
# Sa Pobla
fascinating traditions, history and landscapes. Many towns
#
Ù
can be visited by train from Palma, though to discover
Búger villages or explore sanctuaries, car hire will give flexibility.
THE INTERIOR
Colònia de
Sant Pere Son Morell
Ù
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Muro Son Serra Ù
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de Marina S'Estanyol Vell
Son
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stitx la Salut
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Ariany
Petra, p126
#
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A sandstone village where
oret de time stands still. Proud
talegre
#
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birthplace of Juniper
Serra, one of the founders
Sant
of California.
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ontuïri
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A handsome interior Porto Cristo
yora Novo Ù#
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countryside, with a
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#
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Cas Concos
des Cavaller Calonge
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# 117
e 00 5 miles
10 km
14-interior-mao6.indd 117 Ù
# 2/1/2023 9:56:20 AM
Do One Thing
THE GUIDE
Time ● Take a tour of the wineries in and

around Binissalem (p120), where
Savour the traditional local celler they’ve been making wine for 2000
restaurants, wander sleepy years, since Roman times. Wander
hilltop villages, sample wines orange tree-lined avenues, past
THE INTERIOR
on a vineyard tour, and stay in a elegant 18th- and 19th-century

country finca for a different taste mansions, to visit local wineries,
of Mallorca. such as Jose Luis Ferrer, one of
Mallorca’s best-known, or Celler
Tianna Negre. Literary buffs
should visit Casa-Museu Llorenç
Villalonga (p120), which hosts
an excellent exhibition on this
celebrated writer’s life. If you can,
time your visit to Binissalem with
the Festa des Vermar – a week of
wine tastings, music, fireworks,
a grape-throwing fight, and a fire
run (correfoc), with locals dressed
JEANNE EMMEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
as fire-breathing devils racing

through the narrow streets.
Chicken and seafood paella
Seasonal
Highlights
Seasonal festivals
abound in the interior JANUARY MARCH/APRIL AUGUST
region of the island. Festes de Sant Antoni Costumes, floats, Summer Festival in
No matter what time is celebrated with parades and plenty of Randa, near Algaida,
of year, there’s usually particular vigour in celebrations (island- with events, outdoor
a local festivity under Manacor, with locals wide) at Sa Rua or meals, concerts and an
way. dressed in red as Carnaval. artisan market.
dimonis (devils).
118 IAMJORGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RAQUEL PEDROSA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, PETER TURANSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE GUIDE
● Go in search of island traditions ● Build in a few days of hiking
in Petra (p125), for a fine meal in a or cycling. Base yourself near
traditional celler restaurant, then Alaró (p121; Hotel Rural S’Olivaret
visit the weekly market at Sineu or L’Hermitage are beautiful
(p125) to get a taste of Mallorcan rural stays) and hike up to the
THE INTERIOR
country living. Connect to the Moorish Castell d’Alaró (p121).
area’s beautiful landscape and This popular hike – often busy on
enjoy impressive panoramic views weekends – is best attempted
with a hike to a sanctuary, either midweek. There’s the rustic Es
the Santuari de Nostra Senyora Verger restaurant (known as ‘the
de Cura (p125) near Randa, or the lamb restaurant’) on the mountain
Santuari de Sant Salvador near route up. From the top, take in
Felanitx further south. Stay in one views of the plains below and the
of the interior’s fabulous country surrounding mountains. Cycle the
estates to immerse yourself in a popular routes, including the Coll
relaxed rural experience. d’Honor loop, or go horse riding
on a day’s trekking from Lloseta to
the castle.
SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER

Binissalem’s Festa des Theatre-loving Manacor Dijous Bo in Inca is Alaró’s Christmas
Vermar is a week-long hosts a special cultural the largest market and Market has stalls,
wine festival with festival of plays and fair celebration on the handicrafts, seasonal
music, events and a theatrical events island. fare and twinkling lights
raucous grape-throwing across September and for the festive season.
session. October.
ZIXIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, NEME_JIMENEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOAN LLADO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOAN LLADO/SHUTTERSTOCK © 119

WINE
Wine
Country
#
COUNTRY
THE GUIDE
Palma
Leave the coast behind, and head for El Pla, the interior of the
island. Full of sleepy sandstone villages and market towns,
with the land given over to the vineyards and almond, car- GETTING ORIENTATED
ob and olive trees, the pace of island life here is slower. Prac-
THE INTERIOR
tise your Mallorquin – even a few words will be appreciated. Travel by train from Palma
Visit Santa María del Camí, home to Bodegas Macià Batle to Santa María, Alaró or
Binissalem, and take the
(a well-established winery with tours just by the train sta- bus or join an organised
tion), and elegant Binissalem with its 18th- and 19th-century vineyard tour with transport
mansion houses, literary heritage and wine industry. Quaint included. Alternatively, hire
Alaró and Orient draw hikers en route to the Castell d’Alaró a car to visit the interior
and the Tramuntana trails. To get a real sense of Mallorcan villages and hill towns
traditions, time your visit to coincide with one of the many at your pace. Park on the
outskirts of towns to avoid
island festivals. one-way systems and
narrow streets.
BEST HIKING Villages & Vineyards

ROUTES FROM
TO U R S A N TA M A R Í A A N D B I N I S S A L E M
ALARÓ
Santa María del Camí (or simply ‘Santa María’ to the locals)
Castell d’Alaró is a small town of around 7500 inhabitants, with a large in-
A two-hour hike up ternational community. A popular stop for cyclists, its main
from town. Stop off at street and squares are lined with busy cafes. Wander down
Es Verger restaurant the side streets to discover small wineries or visit Bodegas
on the way for rustic
Macià Batle for a wine tour and tastings. There are sever-
fare.
al interesting design stores, stylish boutiques, concept stores
Talaia de Cals Reís and a good restaurant scene too. It’s low-key island living
A 9.8km loop taking with a quiet charm. There are a few noteworthy sites – the
3½ hours with Convent de Nostra Senyora de la Soledat, a rather grand
rewarding views of
17th- century convent with its courtyard and gardens, and
Vall d’Orient, the
Tramuntana and Serra
the nearby Església de Nostra Senyora del Camí with its
de Alfàbia. Wear distinctive blue tower.
sturdy hiking boots as Nearby Binissalem (another stop on the Palma–Inca train
the trail is rocky and line) is an attractive town of around 8300 inhabitants. Signs
challenging in parts. of its wealthy past are evident in the golden-hued mansion
Alaró to Orient houses, orange tree–lined avenues and elegant squares. This
and the Valley of is the heart of the island’s wine country and a bodega visit can
Coanegra be complemented with a cultural visit to the Casa-Museu
A 14km trail (four hour Llorenç Villalonga in the centre of Binissalem. This hand-
40 minutes) for this some mansion house hosts a fine exhibition on the writer’s
moderate hike. life alongside an interesting programme of literary events
throughout the year.
120

e 00 2 km
1 mile HIGHLIGHTS
1 Jose Luis Ferrer
SIGHTS
2 Bodegas Macià Batle
THE GUIDE
Q4 3 Casa-Museu Llorenç
Villalonga
4 Castell d’Alaró
5 Convent de Nostra
Senyora de la Soledat
6 Església de Nostra
Senyora del Camí
7 Plaça de la Vila
G7
THE INTERIOR
Ù
#
Alaró
Binissalem Ù# I 3
Jose Luis Ň
Ferrer 1
Ù
#
Consell
Ň2
Santa María del Camí
Ù
#
Y
5 Y6
Ù
#
Castles & Mountain Villages

V I S I T R U R A L A L A RÓ A N D O R I E N T
Nestling in the foothills of the Tramuntana, Alaró is a pret-

ty and easy-going mountain town with its own castle ruins,
the Castell d’Alaró, dating back to Moorish times. It’s a two-
hour hike from town to the ruins, which jut out over the moun-
tainside. The climb up is worth it for the splendid views as
far as the bay of Alcúdia, and to Palma in the distance. The
main square, Plaça de la Vila, with the town hall (Casa de la
Vila), church and cafes, is a pleasant spot to relax and enjoy
island life; Carrer d’Alexandre Rosselló and Carrer Petit also
have a smattering of cafes. Saturday morning is market day in
WHERE TO EAT
Bistro 19 in Living Dreams Molí des Torrent Celler Sa Vinya

Santa María design store with In an old windmill on the Hearty rustic Mallorcan fare in
a stylish garden restaurant outskirts of Santa María. Binissalem. Very popular with
– check hours and book in Superb mainly Mediterranean locals. €
advance. €€ cooking. €€
121

ANJAHENNERN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
BEST VINEYARDS
TO VISIT
THE INTERIOR
José Luis Ferrer

An award-winning
Binissalem bodega,
known for quality
wines and Mallorca’s
largest wine cellar.
Bodegas Biniagual
A picturesque
Moorish hamlet near
Binissalem. Home
to award-winning
ecological wine
producers.
Celler Tianna Negre
An environmentally
conscious vineyard
on the outskirts of
Binissalem.
Can Ramis
This family-run
winery in Sencelles, View of Puig de s’Alcadena from Castell d’Alaró (p120)
established in 1870,
continues winemaking the main square. You can reach Alaró by train: get off at the
traditions. Consell-Alaró stop, then take local bus 320 to town (15 minutes).
Y Ramanyà Orient – a small rural village deep in the Tramuntana moun-
A smaller-scale tains, sitting in Bunyola municipality to the west yet easiest
Santa María winery, reached via Alaró – is a good starting point for hiking in the
with a museum mountains. For example, Puig de l’Ofre and Alfàbia (p82)
dedicated to the are accessible from here. The drive from Bunyola is full of
history of Mallorcan hairpin bends and best suited to confident drivers. Cyclists
winemaking.
love the various loops through the mountain roads includ-
ing the Coll d’Honor loop, the Old Roman Path route and the
Finca Solleric loop (one for expert riders).
WHERE TO STAY
Finca Hotel Son Palou Agroturismo Es Hotel Rural S’Olivaret

Upmarket finca hotel in Orient, Quatre Cantons Mountain hotel with a pool
with a pool, mountain views, Charming villa with pool set in and spa on the Alaró–Orient
attentive staff and a tranquil vineyard country in Binissalem. road. €€
setting. €€ Friendly, helpful staff. €€
122

THE INTERIOR #
The Interior
Towns
TOWNS
THE GUIDE
^
Palma
Discover an authentic side to island life through the festivals

and traditions of the interior towns. Here you can explore the
countryside at a slower pace. Stay at a finca or possessio (larg-
GETTING ORIENTATED
THE INTERIOR
er country estate) on land that has been farmed for centuries,
or enjoy an ecological agroturismo. Get lost on country lanes,
To travel around at leisure,
which are full of wildflowers in spring. Practise your Mal- it’s best to hire a car, though
lorquin and immerse yourself in traditional festivities to tru- quite a few places in the
ly connect to the local way of life. Catch the Sant Antoni fes- interior can be reached by
tivities in Manacor when the streets are filled with bonfires train. Find a local guide to
and townsfolk dress as dimonis (demons), enjoy the summer introduce you to the island
traditions and culture
music festival concerts in July and August, or watch the cele-
for more of an ‘insider’
brations of La Beata in Santa Margalida in September, when experience, or join a cultural
locals dress in traditional costumes and ornate floats pass in walking tour – Mallorca
procession accompanied by marching bands. Literaria organises guided
walks through summer.
BEST PLACES
El Pla Off the Beaten Track TO EXPLORE
C O U N T RY V I L L AG ES A N D FA B U LO U S FEST I VA L S
Caimari
Visit some of the less-explored corners of the island. Caimari
Nestled in the foothills
with its charming cobbled streets, olive groves and laid-back
of the Tramuntana, this
vibes. Or Campanet, which offers fantastic cycling and hik- charming sandstone
ing nearby as well as natural wonders like the hydrological village, close to Inca,
phenomena of Fonts Ufanes, or the Coves de Campanet is known for its olive
cave system filled with stalagmites and stalactites formed oil and olives.
over 10 million years ago. Ses Coves restaurant at the caves Campanet
has wonderful views from Puig de Sant Miquel. The pictur- Lively interior village
esque hilltop village of Montuïri has a mix of squares, no- close to Coves de
blehouses, stone houses and cobbled narrow lanes. It is also Campanet, which is
the site of Museu Arqueològic de Son Fornés, with finds less touristy than other
from both Roman times and further back to the Iron Age. caves on the island.
For unforgettable festivals, go to Binissalem’s Festa des Also picturesque Font
Vermar in September for grape-throwing, music and revel- Ufanes where water
ry (also catch the Art Night Fair there in early September), springs up after rain.
or on 1 May visit Costitx for Costitx en Flor, when the village Montuïri
is decked out in huge floral arrangements. La Beata celebra- Visit for the windmills
tions in Santa Margalida are particularly atmospheric, with and archaeological
artistic floats, music and marching bands, townsfolk in tra- sites. This rural town
ditional costumes and dimonis darting through the streets. is abundant in charm,
Festivals happen throughout the year, with celebrations of blessed with good
patron saints, religious events, seasonal markets, arts events, looks and offering
lively festivals. Take a
music and theatre. Seek out this side of island life for a spe-
guided tour and see a
cial stay in Mallorca.
traditional home.
123

Fonts Ufanes G Coves de Parc Ù
#
Platges de
Binibona Ù# Ses 6 G Campanet Natural de Mallorca
S'Albufera
Coves Campanet
Caimari Ù
#
Ù
# Ù
#
Moscari
# Sa Pobla
Mancor de
Ù
#
Ca'n
THE GUIDE
la Vall Ù
#
Picafort
Ù
# Ù
# Selva Búger
Ù
#
Biniamar Ù
# Muro
Lloseta
Ù
# # Inca
Santa
Llubí Margalida
Ù
#
THE INTERIOR
Ù
#
Ù
#
Ù
# Costitx Maria de
la Salut Ariany
Biniali
Ù
#
Ù
#
Ù
# Sencelles Ù
# Sineu
Ù
#
Ses
Alqueries Ù
# Ruberts Lloret de
Vistalegre
Ù
#
Ù
#
Petra
Ù
# Pina Sant
Joan
Ù
#
Museu Vilafranca
Montuïri Ù# I Arqueològic de Bonany
de Son Fornés
Ù
#
0 5 km
e 0 2 miles
Ù
#
Coves de Campanet (p123) Montuïri (p123)
WHERE TO STAY
Es Figueral Nou Hotel Finca Serena Monnaber Nou

A beautifully presented Fashionable Montuïri finca Eco Hotel & Spa
country luxe stay in Montuïri. stay, with pools, a gym and Old-world charm across 225
€€ spa, and on-site restaurant hectares in Campanet, with a
Jacaranda. €€€ spa, pools and restaurant. €€€
124
AMAZING TRAVELS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, TOLOBALAGUER.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

PUIG DE Puig de Randa,
RANDA, SINEU
Sineu & Petra
THE GUIDE
^ #
Palma
& PETRA
THE INTERIOR
There is a lesser-known, spiritual side to Mallorca, with peace- GETTING ORIENTATED
ful mountain refuges to be found along walking trails, and
Train travel makes getting
tranquil hermitages, monasteries and sanctuaries. In the inte- around the interior easy for
rior, journey between the hermitages and sanctuaries of El Pla, some of the towns, though
following in the footsteps of 13th-century theologian, philoso- to really venture into the
pher and writer Ramon Llull, who sought solitude and medita- countryside, hire a car for
tion in the tranquil surroundings of the Puig de Randa. Today flexibility. While many of
the island sanctuaries have
you can visit the Santuari de Nostra Senyora de Cura on Puig
reasonable car access,
de Randa. The bracing walk up to the sanctuary will get your walking up ‘pilgrim style’
heart pumping, and the far-reaching views from the top make may make for a more
the effort well worthwhile. rewarding experience.
WHY I LOVE
Spiritual Stays SPIRITUAL
M YST I CA L S A N CT UA R I ES A N D H E R M I TAG ES
MALLORCA
There are several fascinating sanctuaries to visit in Mallor-
ca’s interior. One of the most famous is Santuari de Nostra
Senyora de Cura on the Puig de Randa, near Algaida. It This part of the island
was here that philosopher Ramon Llull (a key figure in Catalan is incredibly special,
culture) came in the 13th century in search of enlightenment not least for its sense
of grace and history
and peace. Travelling from Randa, the road to the sanctuary (with its strong links
first passes the Santuari de Gracià (Shrine of Our Lady of to Ramon Llull,
Grace) at the foot of the imposing Penya Falconera (Falconer philosopher, thinker
Rock), home to nesting falcons. This site of pilgrimage has and one of the ‘fathers’
been reconstructed several times since the 15th century, in- of Catalan), its stunning
cluding the involvement of famous architect and sculptor An- views over the island
and beyond, its natural
toni Gaudí in the 20th century. beauty (exceptional for
Continuing on you will come to the Ermita Sant Honor- hiking or cycling), and
at, dedicated to the patron saint of Algaida, with spectacular its sense of stepping
views over El Pla and down to the coast, plus Illa de Cabre- back in time, or of a
ra in the distance. You can visit the chapel of this monastery deeper connection to
the past. For anyone
founded in the 14th century. Further up the twisting Puig de
seeking to connect
Randa road, at the top you will arrive at Santuari de Nostra to their spiritual side
Senyora de Cura. Parking is available at the gate and there is or simply ‘reset’ in a
an on-site cafe. The shrine complex includes a 17th- century privileged location
church, monastery and small museum, and was once the amongst nature, I
Aula de Gramática (or Grammar School Room) where Llull’s highly recommend a
visit (and stay) at the
teachings were propagated. A pretty arched garden provides soul-soothing Santuari
shelter from the winds, and the panoramic views from the de Cura.
125

Ù
#
e 00 5 km Ariany
HIGHLIGHTS 2 miles Sineu
Ù
#
Ù
#
Ù
#
1 Santuari de Nostra G5
Senyora de Cura
SIGHTS Ň2
THE GUIDE
2 Bodegas Miquel Oliver Ù

#
Ruberts Ù
#
Lloret de Petra
3 Ermita Sant Honorat Vistalegre 76 Ù
#
4 Museu Fra Juníper 4I

Pina
Serra Ù
#
Sant
5 Plaça des Fossar
Ù
#
Joan
6 Santuari de Gracià
EATING Vilafranca
7 Es Celler de Bonany
Ù
#
Montuïri Ù
#
THE INTERIOR
Castellitx
Ù
#
Santuari de
Randa Nostra Senyora
1 Y de Cura
Ù
#
ĢYY 6
3 #
Porreres
Puig de Randa
terraces stretch across Mallorca. On a clear day you can see

as far as Ibiza.
Markets & Missionaries

T H E TOW N S O F S I N EU A N D PE T R A
If you are seeking to truly get away from it all, you could spend
a little time in the towns of Sineu and Petra.
Petra is a small, sandstone warren of one-way lanes and
cafe-r immed squares. It is resolutely quiet apart from the oc-
casional group of cyclists passing through. Petra is proud of
its connection to missionary Juniper Serra (born in the town)
who sailed to America in 1749 and was a founder of the Cali-
fornia Missions in San Francisco and Los Angeles. The Museu
Fra Juníper Serra next door to his childhood home hous-
es documents, paintings and photographs relating to his life
and work. Stop for lunch at Es Celler with its old wine bar-
rels and traditional rustic fare. Or visit well-established Bo-
degas Miquel Oliver for a tour focusing on wine making
and viticulture. There is a pretty 10km hiking loop from the
town to Ariany, with fine views along the way.
Sineu is a rather grand Roman market town, with two trad
itional country fairs dating back to the 14th century when the
WHERE TO FIND UNUSUAL PLACES
Hostatgeria Santuari de Cura Fira de la Flor Ancient Talayotic sites

Stay at this Puig de Randa Visit Costitx on 1 May each Around Sencelles and Costitx,
sanctuary overnight for year to see the local homes explore Santuari Talaiòtic
excellent dining, views and a and streets decorated with de son Corró, Es Turassot or
spiritual stay. abundant displays of flowers. Talaiot de Binifat.
126

MARINA KRYUCHINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
TAKE TO
THE SKIES
Fancy a different
perspective on
Mallorcan life? Why
not try a hot-air
balloon trip? With
THE INTERIOR
early-morning and
afternoon flights
over El Pla, this is a
fantastic way to see
the island and makes
for stunning sunrise
photography. You
can hire a private trip,
or join a group flight
in one of the larger
baskets. Afterwards,
you’ll be collected
and ‘baptised’ with
cava (sparkling wine)
or fizzy fruit juice, and
given a certificate
to commemorate
your flight. Book with
Mallorca Balloons
Globodromo – with
over 30 years of
experience and
several hot-air
balloon championship
wins internationally,
you’ll be in safe
Dried flowers in Costitx (p123)
hands.
Mallorcan kings kept a second palace here. The weekly mar-

ket (Wednesday mornings) brings the town to life, selling live-
stock, food, ceramics, handicrafts, leather goods and more.
Stop at Plaça des Fossar to refuel in one of the many cafes.
Use this QR code to
Both Petra and Sineu are on the train lines from Palma, pre-book your hot-air
making travel easy from the capital. balloon trip.
WHERE TO EAT
El Rey de la Tapa Restaurant Molí d’en Pau Es Celler

Tapas and paella in Sineu, with Quality traditional Mallorcan Excellent traditional cooking in
friendly service. € cooking in a windmill setting in an atmospheric, large vaulted
Sineu, plus terrace. €€ wine cellar in Petra. €€
127

THE GUIDE
EASTERN
EASTERN MALLORCA
MALLORCA
CASTLES, CAVES AND COVES
There’s magic in the island's east: catch the golden-hour
light on the castle walls at Capdepera, hike in peaceful
Llevant Natural Park, go underground in mysterious caves.
Explore the region in search of re- in the ancient underground caves at
mote, quiet coves; away from Drac and the Talayotic ruins at
VIVOOO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
the tourist resorts, discov- Ses Païsses. There's a gen-
er a rocky landscape of tle coastal atmosphere
caves, calas (bays), tidal in the fishing villag-
pools and small inlets. es Porto Cristo (now a
The glorious hiking family-friendly beach
trails of the Parc Nat- resort) and Portoco-
ural de la Peninsula lom, picture-postcard
de Llevant (Llevant pretty and atmospher-
Natural Park) offer ic with plenty of bays
stunning views over to explore and water-
the Mediterranean, and front seafood restau-
the beautiful natural scen- rants to sample. The coast
ery of this part of the island also provides the chance to
is home to eagles and peregrine have a more active holiday, with
falcons. The medieval towns of Artà horse riding, kayaking along the rug-
and Capdepera take visitors on a journey ged coastline, cliff-jumping, coasteering
back in time. More history can be found or paragliding.
THE MAIN AREAS

ARTÀ CAPDEPERA
Medieval town with bohemian spirit. p134 Fortified medieval hill town. p138
128
15-eastern-mallorca-mao6.indd 128 2/1/2023 10:09:20 AM

THE GUIDE
EASTERN MALLORCA
Portocolom (p141)
129

Ù
#
Campanet
Find Your Way

Betle
#
Ù
THE GUIDE
Son M
With a natural, wild beauty of its own, the east of the island
has an intriguing mix of history, culture (with a plethora of local
festivities throughout the year), a stunning natural environment
and a gorgeous coastline to explore.
EASTERN MALLORCA
Son
Pa
Ù
#
Figuera
Ù
#
Maria de
la Salut
Ù
#
Ariany
Ù
#
Sineu
Ù
#
Lloret de Sant Llorenç
Vistalegre Ù
#
Petra d'es Cardassa
Ù
#
Ù
#
Sant
Joan Son
#
Ù
Car
Montuïri Vilafranca
Ù
# Ù
#
de Bonany
# Manacor
Ù
#
Porto C
Novo
#
Ù
# Porreres
CAR
Driving is really the best # Felanitx Cales de
way to navigate eastern Mallorca Ù#
Mallorca, both inland and
along the coast. Public Ù
#
transport options here are Cala

limited. Be aware, however, Murada
that in summer the roads Ù
# Ca'n Roig
leading to the most popular Portocolom
beaches and coves do get
# Ù
#
Sa Punta
Ù
#
very congested, and it may Cas Concos S'Horta

be best to either set out des Cavaller Ù
#
Calonge
early, or get off the beaten
Ù
#
S'Alqueria
track. Blanca
Ù
#
130 PPICTURES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, ROMAS_PHOTO/SUTTERSTOCK ©
# Cala d'Or
Ù
#

Cap e 00 10 km
Ferrutx S'Arenal 5 miles
et des
# Verger
Ù
Betlem
#
Ù
THE GUIDE
Parc Natural
de la Península
de Llevant
#
Ù
Son Morell
Vell Cala Punta de Capdepera, p138
Ratjada Capdepera
# A charming, walled hill-
CapdeperaÙ#
top town, Capdepera is
Q #
Ù
Son Moll home to an impressive

Ses # Artà Castell de
EASTERN MALLORCA
medieval fortress,
Païsses S Capdepera attractive nowadays for
#
Ù
Font de Sa Cala its magnificent views
but once providing vital
protection from pirates.
#
Ù
Canyamel
#
Ù
Costa de
los Pinos
#
Ù
Son
Llorenç Servera Cala
rdassa #
Ù Bona
Ù
#
Cala Ù# Badia de
Millor Son Servera
Son
#
Ù
#
Ù
Carrio Son Moro
S'Illot Ù#
BUS
Porto Buses run between the main
Cristo
#
Ù resorts along the coast and
to the main towns of Artà and
Porto Cristo Capdepera from both Palma
Novo
#
Ù
and Pollença in the north.
Services are not plentiful and
journey times can be long.
Artà, p134
This attractive medieval town has
castle ramparts and backstreets TRAIN
de to roam in peace, away from the This side of the island is not
ca Ù# buzzing resort culture of the well serviced by train lines.
coast. In fact, the old Manacor–
Ù
#
Cala Artà railway line has been

Murada repurposed as a vía verde,
a greenway for cyclists
stretching over 29km. Bikes
Ù
#
can be rented from near the
Punta
old Artà train station.
Mediterranean
Sea
131

Do One Thing
THE GUIDE
Time ● Visit the Coves del Drac (p141)

for a mysterious journey to a
Staying in eastern Mallorca offers world of caverns full of geological
access to the beach, adventure wonders. Arrive early to beat the
activities, nature, history and crowds and enjoy the cool of the
EASTERN MALLORCA
culture, as well as a connection underground cavern systems. The

to a slower pace of island life. Drac caves extend for 4km and
are 25m deep. The caverns are
atmospherically lit, and you can
take a short boat trip on the large
underground lake inside. Not keen
on tourist crowds? Visit the Coves
dels Hams (p141) instead.
GASTON PICCINETTI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Cala Torta and Cala Mitjana (p137)
Seasonal
Highlights
Plenty of local festivals
and events take place JANUARY MARCH/APRIL MAY
throughout the year. Port Cristo, Capdepera Semana Santa (Holy Fira i Mercat Medieval
Winters are relatively and Artà celebrate Sant Week) processions and is a medieval market
mild and the beauty Antoni mid-month, the ‘Davallament’ take and fair held in
of eastern Mallorca’s with bonfires, dimonis place in Artà. Capdepera on the third
coast and hill towns (a dance of devils) and weekend in May.
traditional clothing.
have a special allure.
132 SEBAS ADROVER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, EMILY MARIE WILSON/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, IAMJORGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE GUIDE
● Spend time in Artà (p134) and ● Spend a few days based in
Capdepera (p138) exploring the either of the attractive fishing
medieval towns and using them villages of Portocolom (p141) or
as a convenient base for visiting Porto Cristo (p140). Explore the
nearby beaches and coves, or for coast by sea with boat excursions
EASTERN MALLORCA
discovering the Llevant Natural that take you to explore calas and
Park (p136). With so many calas caves. Book in with Natura Cavall
to discover, and trails to explore for a horse-riding excursion in
in the natural park, don’t forget to the mountains or along the coast.
make time to enjoy the slow living Cycle or hike up to the Ermita de
on offer in these easy-going towns. Betlem (p137) for stunning views
from the mirador. Head off to
explore the trails of the Llevant
Natural Park (p136) and perhaps
stay in one of the refuges within
the park for a more authentic
experience.
JULY AUGUST NOVEMBER DECEMBER

Festivities in Porto The Festes de Sant Many restaurants, December is the time
Cristo celebrate Verge Salvador, patron hotels and other to visit the Christmas
del Carme – the patron saint of Artà, sees businesses close for market in Artà.
saint of fisherfolk – celebrations take place winter, starting to come
during the week leading during the first week of out of hibernation from
up to 16 July. August. February onwards.
LUNAMARINA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, VITOR MIRANDA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, MADERLA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOAN LLADO/SHUTTERSTOCK © 133

ARTÀ ^ Palma
Artà #
THE GUIDE
Medieval hilltop town Artà has a bohemian feel with its twist-
ing narrow streets, stone houses tinged pink in the evening
light, cheerful cafes and busy squares. The town is dominated
by the imposing stone walls and calvary steps of the Santuari
de Sant Salvador, the fortress that overlooks the town. Views
from the fortress look across to the Serra de Llevant, just 5km GETTING ORIENTATED
north of Artà. These mountains and the Llevant Natural Park
EASTERN MALLORCA
are a joy for hikers, birdwatchers and cyclists. One particu- Car hire is a good idea on the
larly popular but challenging cycling route leads first to the east coast to reach the more
out-of-the-way locations.
Mirador de la Ermita de Betlem, which offers long-distance
Allow extra driving time as
views of Cap de Ferrutx and the Badia d’Alcùdia, then on to many of the country lanes
the hermitage itself. Quiet calas combine beach-going with can take longer than than a
adventure: Cala Bota is a sheltered cove with sandy beach; map might suggest. In the
the crystalline waters of Cala Pilota lie a short scramble be- summer arrive early to find
low cliffs and caves; Cala Magraner is larger and quite lovely. parking at popular beaches.
Bus travel is a possibility
too but services are limited,
particularly in low season.
I LIVE HERE Slow-Living Hill Town

A N C I E N T H I STO RY M E E T S M E D I E VA L
In this medieval gem, slow living is an official way of being:

Artà has recently been named a Cittaslow, an international
recognition of its laid-back pace. The town's charming nar-
row alleys, handsome stone mansions with green shutters and
Xavier Ferrer Rojo tumbling bougainvillea, plus shop- and cafe-lined squares
is the founder of
Natura Cavall, a local
give it a bohemian, creative vibe. You’ll want to climb the
family-run horse-riding cypress-treelined 180 calvary steps to the fortified Santu-
project, specialising ari de Sant Salvador, built on the site of an earlier Moor-
in rescuing and ish settlement.
rehabilitating horses, For cyclists there’s a vía verde, or greenway, that runs from
and then retraining Artà along the tracks of an old railway over 29km to Mana-
them once they are fit
and ready to ride. cor. It offers plenty of shade from pine, holm oak and tam-
arind trees along the way. There are picnic tables along the
“I love to go riding route and you can visit the railway museum at Son Carrió.
through holm oak Local outfit Natura Cavall organises horse-riding excur-
forests, across stony sions in the surrounding countryside and by the coast. But if
mountain paths with all that sounds too active, just wander and enjoy the town’s
dizzying views, or down
to remote beaches gentle charms and cafe life. There’s plenty of shopping on offer
where you can swim from art galleries and boutiques to traditional artisan prod-
with the horses and ucts. With a nice range of accommodation and restaurants,
sleep out under the Artà makes a good base for exploring the east of the island.
stars. Horses are a true
passion, and we have
more than 30 horses at
the family farm.”
134

Cap
Ferrutx
13 HIGHLIGHTS
ħ Badia
9ħ Q 1 Santuari de Sant
d'Alcúdia Betlem
ħ
ħ Finca ħ Salvador
ġ 10
Ù
#
Pública de
8 ħ Q
12 4 ħ 2 Ses Païsses
THE GUIDE
Son Real 5
Ù
# #
Ù
Son Serra Colònia de # Son Morell Vell SIGHTS
E
Ù
de Marina Sant Pere Santuari 3 Cala Bota

11 15 4 Cala des Matzoc
Son Ses
de Sant Cala Ratjada#
Doblons Salvador 5 Cala Estreta
Pastoras #
Ù
6 Cala Magraner
Capdepera
#
Ù
Q1
Ù
# Ù
#
Carretera d' A rtà Son Moll 7 Cala Pilota
Son S2 8 Calo dels Ermitans
Ù
#
Figuera Ses
9 Font Cellada
Païsses
10 Llevant Natural Park
EASTERN MALLORCA
CanyamelÙ# Ł 14
11 Mirador de la Ermita
18 de Betlem
o 17 #
Ù
Costa de 12 Mirador de Na Clara
Son Ù# los Pinos
Sant Llorenç Cala 13 Torre d’Aubarca
Servera
d'es Cardassa Bona
s 16 #
Ù
Cala Ù#
#
Ù
Badia de SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
Son Millor Son Servera 14 Canyamel
Carrio Ù
# 15 Mero Diving
#
Ù
Son Moro 16 Natura Cavall
S'Illot Ù# 17 Vía Verde
#
Manacor
SLEEPING
Porto 18 Can Simoneta
# Cristo
Ù
Mediterranean
Sea
Ù
#
Porto Cristo
Novo
ħ6
7ħ
Cales de ħ 3 e00 2 miles
5 km
Mallorca Ù#
Ancient History in Ses Païsses

Ù
#
E X PLO R E A TA L AYOT I C TOW N
Explore the remains of the Talayotic town of Ses Païsses, lo-

cated just beyond Artà proper, to discover how life was lived
on the island over 3000 years ago. The site dates back to the
Bronze Age, and is the largest and most important Talayo-
tic site on the island's eastern flank. The Museu Region-
al D’Artà traces the town’s past through artefacts such as
jewellery, ceramics and household items from Talayotic, Ro-
man and Moorish times.
The site's looming stone gateway, composed of rough, 8-tonne
slabs, is an impressive transition into the mystery-shrouded
WHERE TO STAY IN ARTÀ
Yartan Boutique Hotel Hotel & Restaurant Es Racó d’Artà

Stylish and smart renovated Jardí d’Artà Stylish rural stay with friendly,
18th-century mansion with a Warm and welcoming, lush attentive staff and a relaxing,
pool, hammam spa, wine cellar shady gardens, pretty outdoor tranquil and luxurious
and pretty terrace. €€€ pool. €€ atmosphere. €€€
135

TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
THE GUIDE
BEST HIKES &

ADVENTURES
Climb the Puig de
Ferrutx, the second-
highest peak in the
Serres de Llevant,
EASTERN MALLORCA
reaching 523m for

fabulous sweeping
island views. Start
from the Ermita de
Betlem.
Hike to the Torre

d’Aubarca.
From Cala Agulla

make the climb up
to the Talaia de
Son Jaumell, a
16th-century lookout
tower. It’s a bit of a Ses Païsses (p134)
rocky scramble to the
ridge. The ascent from world of prehistoric Mallorca. You can traverse the tree-shaded
Cala Mesquida site in under 30 minutes, but may appreciate a longer visit.
is an alternative We know little about the inhabitants' social or religious
route up. There are lives, but security was clearly an issue: they lived behind a
gorgeous views from double ring of stone walls, built between 650 BCE and 540
the top. BCE. Within them, small stone houses were built in a circu-
lar pattern around a central atalaia (watchtower). This was
Fancy coasteering? a centre of some size – the walls' perimeter extends 320m –
Experience Mallorca
but was abandoned after the Romans arrived in 123 BCE.
can organise a
day of climbing,
From the large roundabout east of Artà's tourist office, fol-
cliff-jumping, rock low the signs towards Ses Païsses.
scrambling, abseiling
and swimming on the Wild Wandering
coast. E X PLO R E T R A I L S O F L L E VA N T N AT U R A L PA R K
Cycle the vía verde

Covering over 16.7 sq km, the Llevant Natural Park takes
(p134). in coastal stretches; cliffs in the natural reserves of Cap de
Ferrutx and Cap des Freu; pine forest; old farmland of ol-
WHERE TO STAY IN LLEVANT NATURAL PARK
Natura Cavall’s Finca S’Alzina Retreat Refugio S’Arenalet Retreat

Near Artà; it's ecological and Comfortable and simple Located in the natural park
off-grid. No wifi here. Simple mountain refuge. There are by a beautiful wild beach.
and relaxed. Perfect base for some double rooms with en- Accessible only by foot.
their horse-riding excursions. € suite bathrooms. € Reserve online. €
136

ive, carob and almond groves; heathland full of Mauritanian
grasses; and much of the Artà mountain range, Muntanyes WHY I LOVE
d’Artà, and the highest peaks of the Serra de Llevant. It also LLEVANT
forms part of the EU's Natura 2000 network and is an Area NATURAL PARK
of Special Protection for Birds.
THE GUIDE
To get here from Artà, follow the road to the Ermita de Be-
tlem (Ma 3333). The information office (tel: 606 096 830) for Mallorca offers
the park can advise on hiking trails. There are 13 different an abundance of
routes with a map, and a guided tour is also available. There incredible hiking
challenges, from
are three retreats within the natural park, and camping is coastal routes and
possible by S’Arenalet beach with reservations. As well as a peak ascents, to walks
coastal watchtower, old country estates and features such as through forests with
olive oil mills, there is also the remains of an encampment waterfalls and gentle
EASTERN MALLORCA
for republican prisoners during the Spanish Civil War. The countryside hikes
park is full of wildlife (see if you can spot hedgehogs, green through wildflower
meadows. There is
toads, tortoises or birds such as the Balearic warbler, pere- something to be found
grine falcons, Egyptian vultures or the booted eagle). It is for all levels of ability.
a fantastic environment for birdwatching. Do be respectful However, the Llevant
of nature within the park, close gates behind you and stick Natural Park has a
to the paths. wild beauty to it, and
is perhaps less visited
than other hiking
Calas, Caves & Coastal Exploring routes on the island so
H I D D E N CAV ES & RO C K P O O L S that you feel more of
a sense of peace and
The east coast offers many beautiful coves, often with san- tranquillity here. There
dy beaches. Some of the best to explore are those with secret are few places that
pools or hidden caves. If you stay at Can Simoneta, the one- provide such diversity
time home of a 19th-century monk who took the saltwater of landscape and
cure here (the tidal pool waters being considered healing), environment, including
coastal cliffs, pine
you can descend the stone steps direct to the pools. Alter- forests and mountain
natively access the pools by sea kayak or paddleboard from peaks. A day’s hiking
Canyamel. here is rewarded with
Sign up with local dive school Mero Diving for guided incredible views and a
dives and snorkelling in the area or with KayakMallorca sense of connection to
for kayaking adventures. nature.
Strike out to explore more remote parts of the coast, hik-
ing to beaches such as Cala des Matzoc and Font Celada or
Calo dels Ermitans. Near Cala des Matzoc, you can hike to
the Torre d’Aubarca, an 18th-century watchtower perched
on the edge of the headland. Walk from Cala Estreta along
the coast skirting several coves. You can climb the steps
within the tower to see the sea views from the top.
For stargazing, Mirador de Na Clara on the cliffs above
Cala Na Clara is a wonderful spot due to the dark night
sky here – just remember to bring a torch for a safe descent.
Llevant Natural Park watchtower

PEP FUSTER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
WHERE TO FIND THE BEST BEACHES
Cala Mesquida Cala Mitjana Cala Torta

Backed by sand dunes, This small, sheltered bay is A wilder beach backed by
accessible via bus service from accessible by path from Cala dunes.
Cala Ratjada, family-friendly, Mesquida (takes an hour).
has beach bars.
137

CAPDEPERA ^ Palma
Capdepera
#
THE GUIDE
Once the site of Bronze Age settlements, followed by a Ro-

man and then Moorish settlement, the town of Capdepera
was officially created by degree of King Jaume II who sought
to establish a fortified town to protect against invaders and
pirates. The town is indeed closer to the neighbouring island
of Menorca than it is to Mallorca's capital Palma.
The 14th-century Castell de Capdepera, a castle with for-
EASTERN MALLORCA
tress walls, remains today, and the town celebrates its me- GETTING ORIENTATED
dieval past with an annual medieval fair held with jousting Car hire is best here for
and falconry. Explore Capdepera's old town, stay in one of the flexible travel. Try to time
nearby fincas (rural estates) and enjoy fine restaurants and your visit to the town
with one of its annual
easy-going cafes. Capdepera feels a million miles away from
celebrations. Apart from
the busy tourist resorts on the coast. the Medieval Fair in mid-
May, popular celebrations
include the Festes de San
Roc i Sant Bartomeu in
August.
I LIVE HERE Medieval Capdepera

Miguel TO U R T H E M E D I E VA L TOW N
Alburquerque, Capdepera, once a Roman settlement, later Moorish, and
founder of then built as a defensive town under the Spanish Conquis-
KayakMallorca, ta, still has the feeling of a medieval town, with its narrow
has been teaching streets; 14th-century buildings and houses; fortified, crenel-
kayaking since 1996. lated stone walls; and the castle perched above the town. You
can explore the city walls on foot to see their defence tow-
“My favourite kayaking
ers, and visit the small church and the Casa del Goberna-
route is along Pollença
Bay in the direction dor located within its walls.
of Formentor, with The Iglesia de Sant Bartomeu, patron saint of Capdepera,
the majestic Serra is another interesting church, dating from the 19th century
de Tramuntana in the with a single nave, vaulted ceilings and ornate side chapels.
background. Some of Enjoy the laid-back cafe culture in the squares. Try the ter-
my favourite places race of popular L’Orient Café in the summer months. Take
to explore by kayak in the weekly market on a Wednesday for local produce, food
on the Mallorcan and artisan wares. Don’t miss the beautiful sunsets by the
coastline are the Faro lighthouse, the Faro de Capdepera. Still in use, it plays an
de Punta Avanzada, important communication role with neighbouring Menor-
la Pedrera or the ca. Explore Sa Torre Cega (the ‘Blind’ Watchtower) and the
Estar den Ros. I'm beautiful surrounding garden, which is home to a wonder-
always amazed by
the turquoise waters
of the Borges Cave.
A favourite beach is
Playa del Caló, which
is often deserted.”
138

44
44
THE GUIDE
4444
Cd
e l'A
gulla
Co
m as s
a
X
Cd
C de ro
eP
44
izar
era
l'Ag
Serv I
EASTERN MALLORCA
nor
ul
io
Plaça C d'El
la
tilla rca Sa Torre
Pa a llo dels
de
Ca'n M Pins Cega
C
Via
I
rl os
Ca
an
4
Castell de Ju
ito
de eT
Capdepera C
Cd
Q Mediterranean
Sea
Y 6 4
e00 1 km
0.5 miles
ful collection of sculptures.

Guided visits can be booked
in advance for this coastal es-
tate, which is owned by the
March Foundation.
Note that the castle walk-
ways are uneven with a lot of
steps and access is unfortu-
EL LOBO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
nately limited. The stones can

be slippery so do be careful.
Faro de Capdepera
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Predi Son Jaumell Hotel Creu de Tau Cases de Son Barbassa
Luxurious finca stay with a Plenty of attention to detail Relaxing stay in beautiful
Michelin-starred restaurant led in this charming hotel with a countryside near the coast.
by chef Andreu Genestre. €€€ warm welcome, excellent spa With a pool, spa and restaurant,
and fine dining. €€ it's a perennial favourite. €€€
139

Capdepera
Cap
pdepera #
THE GUIDE
Covess dels
Hams Po
orto Cristo
Hams# #Porto
#
Coves del
Coves
Drac
Beyond Capdepera Portocolom

#
Discover east-coast charm in old fishing villages

EASTERN MALLORCA
and geological wonders in the Coves del Drac

and Coves dels Hams.
Travel the east coast and you come across a mix of busy re-
sorts, quieter family-friendly areas and remote, secluded coves.
Along with way you’ll discover some charming fishing vil- GETTING ORIENTATED
lages including Porto Cristo and Portocolom, full of picture-
postcard charm. Near Porto Cristo, you can visit some of the Explore the north of the
most spectacular underground cave systems to be found on island at your own pace
with a hire car, or local
the island. Try either quieter Coves dels Hams, or the ever-
buses run between the
popular (and therefore busy) Coves del Drac. These 4km-long
main resorts in the high
and 25m-deep caverns are said to have inspired Jules Verne season.
in writing of Journey to the Centre of the Earth.
Coves del Drac
140

Magical Drac & Hams Caves
E X PLO R E U N D E RG RO U N D WO R L D S
One of the most popular tourist experiences on the island is

a visit to the Coves del Drac, near Porto Cristo. This under- BEST FOOD
THE GUIDE
ground system of caverns and lakes is a geological wonder
dating back 10 million years. The caves were first properly Quince Restaurant
explored in the 19th century by cartographer and speleolo- & Catina
gist MF Will. Later, in 1896, EA Martel discovered new cav- Boho-chic eatery
erns and the large underground lake that can be visited today. in Porto Cristo
There are four main caverns and six underground lakes, with wide range of
the largest of which is Lake Martel. The light play between options combining
the rock formations and the water creates incredible shades international flavours.
€€
EASTERN MALLORCA
and patterns in this underground wonderland. The visit takes
about an hour and includes a short boat trip on the lake, ac- La Magrana
companied by classical music. Cute green-shuttered
If you prefer a quieter visit and more time to take in your sur- cafe with garden
rounds, a visit to the nearby Coves dels Hams is recommend- terrace in Porto
ed. There are three caves: the ‘Round’ cave with a stunning Cristo. €€
botanical garden; the ‘Blue’ cave, which delves into the ancient Sa Pedra
history of Mallorca with an audiovisual time lapse projected Terrace overlooking
onto the surface of the caves; and the ‘Classic’ cave with an un- the marina in Porto
derground lake complete with classical music accompaniment. Cristo, popular for
It is cooler inside the caves (18 to 20 degrees), so do take seafood paella but
an extra layer with you, even if it’s a very warm day outside. vegetarians also
catered for. €€
Old-World Coastal Charm HPC Restaurant
P O RTO C O LO M A N D N E A R BY B E AC H ES
Stylish modern-
Spanish cooking in
South of Porto Cristo you will pass several idyllic beaches and a pleasant setting in
coves. Some of the best include the golden-sand Cala Román- Portocolom. €€
tica, with its turquoise waters, Cala Varques, Cova del Pi-
Restaurant Sa Llotja
lar and Cala Magraner. All are a bit of a hike to reach, which Popular seafood
makes them quieter and more enjoyable stops on the way to Por- eatery with stunning
tocolom. This fishing village has retained much of its charm waterfront terrace in
with rows of painted boat houses and a sheltered-bay setting. Portocolom. €€
Portocolom was named after Christopher Columbus, who was
allegedly born here (not that there is a great deal of evidence Organic Restaurante
to support this claim). One of the best places to eat is Restau- Ecológico, Cala
Marcal
rant Sa Llotja, which has a terrace overlooking the water. Organic fresh food
Portocolom also makes a good base for adventure activities. with plenty of
There is a sailing school here offering tuition. Skualo Adven- vegetarian and vegan
ture Sports Centre can organise snorkelling, caving, pad- options. Book in
dleboarding, speed boating and sea-kayaking excursions in advance. Lovely view
addition to dive trips. For a gentle boat trip, book with Star- from the terrace. €€
fish and take a glass-bottomed tour of the coastline between
Portocolom and Cala d’Or and Cala Figuera, with stops at
coves and beaches along the way.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Son Mas Can Simoneta JS Portocolom Suites

Renovated 17th-century estate Five-star luxury, adults only, Modern vibe plus harbour and
on 20 hectares of land, with set on a clifftop with access to old-town views. €€€
indoor and outdoor pools, spa Canyamel Beach. €€€
and fine dining. Superb. €€€
141

THE GUIDE
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
Cala Figuera (p149)

142
16-southern-mallorca-mao6.indd 142 2/1/2023 10:10:22 AM

THE GUIDE
SOUTHERN
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
MALLORCA
WILD BEACHES AND FISHING VILLAGES
From the Talayotic ruins of Capocorb Vell, to the pristine
white sands and turquoise waters of Platja des Trenc,
southern Mallorca will seduce you.
A stay in the south offers wild beach- set at the Mirador de Maioris or at the
es, quiet calas along the coast- lighthouse on Mallorca's south-
MARTIN VALIGURSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
line and a stunning natural ernmost tip, Cap de Ses Sa-

park at Mondragó (pic- lines. Venture inland and
tured right), with several you will find the larger
horseshoe bays backed market towns of Lluc-
by pine forest. Watch major, Campos and
the yachts in the har- Santanyí, along with
bours, go snorkelling, rural villages and ag-
swimming or paddle- ricultural activity. Vis-
boarding in the crys- it incredible viewpoints
tal-clear waters, and like the 16th-century
just enjoy the natural Torre de S’Estalella or
beauty of this part of the Es Pontàs, a massive nat-
island. With nearby fishing ural rock arch.
villages to explore, along with While this part of the island is
ancient Bronze Age sites, underground at its best in the summer, out of sea-
caves and a group of small protected is- son can also be an interesting time to vis-
lands (the Cabrera archipelago), there is it, particularly for nature lovers.
plenty to enjoy. Catch an unforgettable sun-
THE MAIN AREAS
SANTANYÍ MONDRAGÓ NATURAL PARK PARC NACIONAL DE
Cosmopolitan boho town. Tranquil bays and pine forests. L'ARXIPÈLAG DE CABRERA
p148 p154 Spain’s largest nature reserve.
p156
143

Badia de Ù
#
S'Arenal
Palma Cala
Blava
Ù
# #
Llucmajor
Bella
Cap Vista
THE GUIDE
Ù
#
Enderrocat
Ù
#
Badia
Gran
Cam
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
Capocorb
S Vell
S'Estanyol
Ù
#
Vallgornera de Migjorn Ù
#
Sa Ràpita
Cap Ù
#
Ù
#
Blanc Cala Pi
Pla
ħ de
Colòni
Sant J
CAR #
Ù
Really the best way to

travel in this part of the
island is by car. It allows
you to visit places at your
own pace, and to reach
some of the more off-the- Parc Nacional de
beaten-track locations. l’Arxipèlag de Cabrera,
p156
Spain’s largest nature reserve,
covering sea and land, with 19
BUS uninhabited islands and islets:
There are buses from access by permit only.
Palma to Santanyí and the
larger coastal resorts, but
services are slow and not
terribly frequent. See the
latest tib.org route map and
timetable. Illa des
Conills
Mediterranean
Sea
Cova
Blava
u
Illa de Parc Nacional
Cabrera Arxipèlag
144 NIKIFOROV ALEXANDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, SIMON DANNHAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
de Cabrera

Find Your Way
THE GUIDE
Explore Mallorca's rocky coastline and pristine wild beaches,
visit ancient Bronze Age sites, discover the beauty of the
Cabrera archipelago and Mondragó Natural Park, and catch a
Campos # sunset from the island's southernmost tip.
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
#
Ù
Cas Concos Portocolom # #
Ù Sa Punta
des Cavaller
Ù
# S'Horta
Ù
#
Calonge
S'Alqueria
Blanca
#
Ù
# Cala d'Or
ta
#
Ù
Portopetro
Santanyí Ù# Mondragó
Natural Park
Ses
Platja Salines
ħ des Trenc Ù
# Ù
#
Cala
Llombards Santanyí #
Ù
Colònia de #
Ù
Cala
Sant Jordi #
Ù
Figuera
#
Ù Estany des Cala
Tamarells
Llombards
Estany
de ses
Gambes
Mondragó Natural
Park, p154
Cap de Contrasting pine forests
Ses Salines
and hiking trails by
azure bays, plus diverse
birdlife including
kestrels, hoopoes,
Santanyí, p148
curlews and peregrine
Cosmopolitan boho falcons.
town with weekly
markets and a vibrant
restaurant scene.
la des
onills
a
a
cional
èlag
145
rera e00 5 miles
10 km

Do One Thing
THE GUIDE
Time ● Visit the Parc Nacional de

l’Arxipèlag de Cabrera (p156).
With an abundance of natural This uninhabited nature reserve
parks, coves and caves to explore, of 18 islands and islets requires
relaxing towns to visit and a firmly permit access, so go with an
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
traditional hinterland, southern organised excursion. Boats depart

Mallorca offers an unhurried from Colònia de Sant Jordi during
introduction to island life. the summer months. You might
spot dolphins and whales on the
crossing. The wildlife diversity is
incredible, with over 200 species
of fish and 150 species of birds.
There are some hiking options on
the main Illa de Cabrera (p156),
and you can visit the castle, a
museum charting the fascinating
history of these islands and the
Cova Blava (Blue Cave; p156) for a
MARTIN VALIGURSKY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
magical snorkelling experience.
Platja des Trenc (p149)
Seasonal
Highlights
From gastronomic
festivals with open-air APRIL MAY JUNE/JULY
dinners, to outdoor Salt and spices fair Head to Festa des The rural Fira de
concerts, night in Ses Salines, home Tondre in Es Llombards la Pagesia fair in
markets, craft fairs and of Salinas d'Es Trenc's for old-school sheep S’Alqueria Blanca has
summer parties, there famous flor de sal. shearing with scissors. an agricultural focus
is much to celebrate in and a large summer
party.
southern Mallorca.
146 VENTURA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, JOSEMICHINEA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, KONSTANTIN TRONIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

THE GUIDE
● Base yourself in or near ● Spend a day hiking the
Santanyí (p148), which has some coastline, and a day discovering
fantastic boutique hotels or finca the ancient past of the island.
(rural estate) stay options, art Leave the car in Colònia de Sant
galleries, pleasant squares and a Jordi (p149) and take a taxi to
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
vibrant market. From here, explore the Cap de Ses Salines (p149)
Parc Nacional de l’Arxipèlag lighthouse with its views over to
de Cabrera (p156), along with a Illa de Cabrera. From there it’s
day at Platja des Trenc (p149) – a a three-hour walk back to base
gorgeous long strip of fine white passing Platja des Cargol with its
sand. There are few facilities so rock pier, and the pretty coves
bring your own shade, water and and beaches of Cala en Tugores,
sun protection, and arrive early in Platja de Ses Roquetes, Platja des
summer for a parking spot. Spend Carbó and Platja des Dolç. To see
day three in Mondragó Natural Mallorca’s prehistoric past, wander
Park (p154) exploring its glorious the Talayotic ruins of Capocorb
beaches, and enjoy an evening Vell (p152), dating back to 1000
meal in Portopetro (p154) with BCE.
views over the harbour.
AUGUST AUGUST SEPTEMBER OCTOBER

Celebrate Santa Maria Ses Salines celebrates Calonge celebrates Santanyí Autumn Fair
del Mar in Cala d’Or, Sant Bartomeu at the Sant Miquel with brings together a great
with open-air dinners, Festa del Cavall, with concerts, dinners, selection of traditional
a craft night market, kids races where they dances, games, crafts, folk dances and
concerts and a maritime challenge the costumed costumes, a fair and a gastronomy shows.
procession. dimoni (devil). popular fishing contest.
MISTERVLAD/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, CORRADO BARATTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, IAMJORGE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, PHOTOSITE/SHUTTERSTOCK © 147

w
SANTANYÍ ^ Palma
& AROUND
THE GUIDE
#
Santanyí
Wedged between Mondragó Natural Park and Ses Salines, San-

tanyí makes a great base for exploring southern Mallorca. Set
slightly inland, it is a vibrant and handsome town. You can see
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
signs of its past in the remaining fortified city wall and the Por-
ta Murada gate, which would have been used to protect against GETTING ORIENTATED
pirate raids. The town is full of good restaurants, pleasant cafes,
Car hire is best to explore
weekly markets, shops selling local produce and artisan prod-
the south coast of the island
ucts, art galleries and the inevitable estate agents. It has long at your leisure. Check for
drawn artists and is also popular with an international crowd. parking in advance at the
Santanyí is perfect for visiting nearby coves and calas, and busier beaches, particularly
exploring the wild and beautiful Platja des Trenc. Travellers in high season.
can also reach the Cabrera archipelago by boat from nearby
Colònia de Sant Jordi or discover the ancient past of the is-
land at Capocorb Vell.
BEACHES NEAR
Artists & Artisans
E X PLO R I N G S A N TA N Y Í
SANTANYÍ
Start the day with a strong coffee in Santanyí's Plaça Major
Platja des Trenc before exploring the narrow alleyways and streets of this hon-
A 10km stretch of white ey-coloured town. Shop in its stylish boutiques, and dip into
sand and shallow artists’ studios and workshops. There is a strong (mostly inter-
waters. This beach is
part of a natural park
national) creative community here, with ceramics, textiles and
backed by sand dunes. art all to be found in abundance. Casa de Cultura Ses Cases
Noves runs a programme of exhibitions and interesting talks
Cala Llombards
on local art. Quality stonework is another longstanding tradi-
With a ladder into the
sea, this rocky area is
tion linked to the area, and work by well-known, island-born
great for snorkelling. classical sculptor Jaume Mir can be seen in nearby Calonge.
Has a cafe, facilities Saturdays are the busiest day in Santanyí due to the weekly
and beach volleyball. market. Arrive early to browse the stalls and sample local prod-
ucts. After an afternoon spent at one of the nearby beaches, en-
Caló des Moro
Wonderful snorkelling joy live music (usually from around 9.30pm) at Sa Cova by its
and marine life. Very illuminated olive tree in the main square. For dinner, try Anoa
popular in summer, so Santanyí (Mediterranean/European), Laudat (fine dining for
best visited early in foodies), Es Molí de Santanyí in an old windmill, or Retroway
the day. (good for vegans and vegetarians and with gluten-free options).
Cala S’Almunia
Another wild beach in
a very pretty setting.
Calas & Coves
Rocky slab rather than C OASTA L E X PLO R I N G
sand. The southern Mallorca coastline is full of hidden coves and
calas just waiting to be explored. Around 10km from San-
148
tanyí is Cala Santanyí, a white-sand cove. At its loveliest be-

fore summer is in full swing, or just after the holiday crowds
leave, the crystalline waters are family-friendly or perfect for
snorkelling. There are hotel and restaurant options by the
beach, showers and toilets on the beach, and parasols and
sunbeds to rent. You'll also find water sports on offer. Pad- BEST STAYS
THE GUIDE
dleboarding or kayaking are popular, as are dive trips – try
Cala Santanyí Diving School. Parking is available next to Petit Hotel
the beach and there is a paved walkway to the sand, making Sant Miquel
this beach accessible. Cosy, charming
boutique hotel in
Cala Figuera is another charming option, also close to
Calonge, with a
Santanyí – it's a 10-minute drive. There is no beach here. In-
rooftop pool. €€
stead there is a beautiful harbour set in two inlets – Caló
d’en Boira and Caló d’en Busques. With its whitewashed, S’Hotelet de Santanyí
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
green-shuttered homes, brightly painted boathouses with pri- Elegant, refined
townhouse in a super-
vate stone jetties, and traditional bobbing fishing boats, it is
central Santanyí
a pretty place to stop for photographs and lunch – try La Pe- location, with
tite Iglésia or Restaurant Es Port. At one point Santanyí’s excellent breakfast.
famous marés sandstone was transported to other parts of the €€
island from here, and with its watchtower Torre d’en Beu,
Can Ferrereta
built in 1569 to defend against pirate attacks, this quiet cove
Five-star treat in a
still has an ‘old Mallorca’ feel. 17th-century Santanyí
mansion, with a
Coastal Hikes & Beautiful Beaches super pool, spa and
S A LT PA N S A N D L A I D - BAC K TOW N S gardens. €€€
Start the day early and head for the pristine Platja des Trenc Fontsanta Hotel
– so picture-perfect it has doubled as the Caribbean in sever- Thermal & Spa
al films. Backed by sand dunes and set in a natural park, this Adults-only, high-end
stay. The gorgeous
wild white-sand beach with turquoise waters stretches for over
spa has a Turkish
10km. There are a couple of small chiringuitos (snack bars)
bath, thermal pools
but little else in the way of facilities. The beach is best enjoyed and a sauna; 6km from
for an early-morning swim or to catch the evening sunset. Af- Platja des Trenc. €€€
ter a morning at des Trenc, head to Colònia de Sant Jordi
Villa Piccola
for lunch – Cassai Beach House or 5Illes Beach Restau-
by Cassai
rant are good picks. Once a fishing village, now a popular Stylish apartment
beach resort (favoured by locals), the town is also the depar- hotel in Colònia de
ture point for the boat to the Cabrera archipelago. Sant Jordi, close to
Nearby Ses Salines is an attractive inland town, in a ru- beautiful beaches. €€
ral setting full of walking and cycling trails, and shops and
Blau Colònia
restaurants showcasing local products. The town’s salt pans, Sant Jordi
now home to flamingos, were used as far back as Roman times Family-friendly resort
for their salt. Local company Salinas d'Es Trenc runs tours close to des Trenc,
of the salt pans explaining the salt production process and with tennis, spa, pools
providing background on the abundant birdlife to be found and kids club. €€
in the wetlands. Take home some of their famous flor de sal.
WHERE TO FIND ACTIVE ADVENTURES
Cala Santanyí Diving School Red Star Tours Més Aventura

For diving and water-sports Cala Figuera boat excursions, For canyoning and
activities from Cala Santanyí. boat hire, kayaking, bikes and coasteering, abseiling, hiking,
paddle surf. climbing, excursions and
courses.
149

SANTANYÍ & AROUND
THE GUIDE
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
o8
1
Platja
ħ des Trenc
Ses
Salines
Ù
#
69
Ù
#
Colònia de Estany des
Sant Jordi Tamarells
6 11
Estany
de ses
Gambes
HIGHLIGHTS SIGHTS 4 Casa de Cultura Ses ACTIVITIES, COURSES

1 Platja des Trenc 2 Cala Figuera Cases Noves & TOURS
3 Cala Santanyí 5 Plaça Major 7 Cala Santanyí Diving
6 Torre d’en Beu School
8 Salinas d’Es Trenc
150

e 00 1 mile
2 km
THE GUIDE
15
6 6 12
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
5 Mondragó
4 Natural Park
10 I G Santanyí
Ù
#
Llombards
Ù
#
Cala
7 13 14 Figuera
3 Cala
Ù
#
6 6 Q
ħŁ
Ù
#
Santanyí
Ħ2 6
Ù
#
Cala
Llombards
Mediterranean
Sea
EATING 11 Cassai Beach House see 5 Laudat ENTERTAINMENT

9 5Illes Beach 12 Es Molí de Santanyí 14 Restaurant Es Port see 5 Sa Cova
Restaurant 13 La Petite Iglesia 15 Retroway
10 Anoa Santanyí
151

CAPOCORB ^ Palma
VELL & COVA

THE GUIDE
Capocorb
#
Vell
DES COLOMS
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
While you could be forgiven for thinking that southern Mal-

lorca is all about its glorious beaches and coastline, the area is GETTING ORIENTATED
also rich in history. Connect to the ancient island past with a Travel here by car to
visit to Talayotic site Capocorb Vell and discover the remark- explore the coastline and
able Cova des Coloms cave system on a guided sea-caving ex- beaches. Bring a sense of
cursion. Tribes arriving in the Balearic Islands around 1200 curiosity, imagination and a
BCE marked the beginning of the Talayotic Period. These war- spirit of adventure for these
island experiences. Cova
riors built over 200 settlements across Mallorca and were re-
des Coloms is also known
sponsible for the distinctive dry-stone talayots (towers) that as the Pirate Cave – who
remain at some sites today. Capocorb Vell is one of the best knows what sunken treasure
examples on the island and a fascinating site visit. may be hidden there?
Ancient Past & Natural Wonders

NEARBY CAV ES A N D A TA L AYOT I C S I T E
RESTAURANTS
There are several Talayotic sites on Mallorca – such as Costitx
Port Petit Restaurant (p123) and Montuïri (p123) – and Capocorb Vell, 12km from
Fine dining in Cala d’Or Llucmajor, is one of the largest and most excavated. Dating
with harbour views. back to c 1200 BCE, the site has five talayots (towers), some
€€€ circular and some square. These dry-stone towers would have
El Castillo del Bosque reached two floors high but it is not known if they served as
Paella in an defensive posts. Between the towers are the excavated walls
atmospheric of the dwellings that would have made up this Neolithic set-
castle setting near tlement. You can walk along the paths of the site and gain a
Portocolom (seasonal, sense of its scope and layout. Note, Capocorb Vell is closed
closed Tuesdays and on Thursdays and tickets are cash only. There is a charming
Wednesdays). €€ cafe-bar just next to the site, along with parking.
Rapa Nui Can Pelat Want to delve even further back in time? Then visit the
Quality cooking in Cova des Coloms with a guided group. Experience Mal-
rural Cas Concos des lorca runs guided excursions (requiring a wetsuit) that in-
Cavaller. €€ clude abseiling, and swimming under water to enter the cave
Son Terrassa full of stalagmites and stalactites. The Myotragus (an ancient
A Cas Concos gem, species of tiny goat, 50cm tall, dating back millions of years)
with beautiful sunsets was discovered here by palaeontologist Dorothea Bate in 1909.
from the terrace,
excellent food and a There are other more-accessible caves nearby including the
wonderful wine list. €€ sea arch of Cova des Pont and Cova des Pirata, accessed
with a guided group.
152

Experience Llucmajor #
Mallorca
u
THE GUIDE
D
Cova des Coloms,
Cova des Pirata,
Cova des Pont
(45km)
u
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
Capocorb
Vell e 00 2 km
1 mile
Cala Pi Capocorb Vell
WHERE TO FIND BEACHES
Cala Pi Cala Beltràn Racó de S’Arena

Beautiful white-sand beach Rocky little beach with Unspoilt beach, with
and coves, with picturesque emerald water that's perfect rock pools and a quieter
boathouses and steep steps for snorkelling. atmosphere.
down.
153
LEFT: VULCANO/SHUTTESTOCK © RIGHT: TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

MONDRAGÓ ^ Palma
NATURAL PARK
THE GUIDE
#
Mondragó
Natural Park
One of the real gems of southern Mallorca is Mondragó Nat-
ural Park and the surrounding area, taking in neighbour-
ing fishing villages, resorts and hidden coves. Mondragó is
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
formed by beautiful horseshoe bays along a rocky coastline, GETTING ORIENTATED

with sandy beaches and aquamarine water backed by pine
forest. The area is perfect for a relaxed beach day in a glorious Come early to get a parking
spot in one of the car parks
setting, and it is equally stunning in the spring and autumn near the natural park,
months as a place where visitors can hike and enjoy nature. and then walk down to
Nearby fishing village Portopetro is charming and makes for the beach. There's a cafe,
a fantastic lunch stop as well as a base near to Mondragó for restaurant and shop by
longer stays. Busier Cala d’Or is also an option. Visit the sea Cala Mondragó, but follow
caves at Calódes Màrmols, discover tranquil waters at Cala the coastal walkway that
connects the beaches to
Sa Nau, or head to the stone arch of Cova des Pont. S’Amarador beach for a
quieter day.
HIKING ROUTES Coves & Hidden Harbours

IN MONDRAGÓ N AT U R A L PA R K A N D FI S H I N G V I L L AG ES
NATURAL PARK
Over 765 hectares of grassland, dunes, pine forests, wetlands
Viewpoint of Ses and coastal areas make up the stunning Mondragó Natural
Fonts de n’Alis Park. From Santanyí, drive down narrow country lanes edged
From the car park to by dry-stone walls to reach the car park near the beach. The
the beach of Ses Fonts, park is open year-round and you can hike or cycle here too.
crossing pine and There are four routes to enjoy, all taking in a wide range of
wild olive forests, and
passing a saltwater landscapes, flora and fauna. Paddleboarding and snorkelling
pond. are available at Cala Mondragó, or simply watch the yachts
bobbing up and down in the bays.
Ses Gavotes route
Neighbouring Portopetro is a charming fishing village,
Circular route through
the forest along with a harbour, marina and tiny beach. Its row of boathous-
the coast. Begin at es with green doors are irresistibly photogenic. There is also
S’Amarador beach, a small yacht club, and boats run excursions to local coves,
taking in forest, coast some making the journey to Parc Nacional de L'Arxipèlag de
and viewpoints along Cabrera. Try El Baúl, Gastrobar Na Petra or Restaurant
the way. Norai for lunch by the water. If you are looking for some-
Viewpoint route – Sa where with more going on, then the resort of Cala d’Or is
Guàrdia d’en Garrot nearby with plenty of bars, restaurants and shops, plus a
Circular path from Caló Sunday night market open on Sundays offering local crafts
d’en Garrot, to the left and products.
of Ses Fonts de n’Alis
beach, with viewpoints
along the route and
Caló des Borgit.
154

Ù
#
SIGHTS
S'Alqueria
Blanca 1 Cala Mondragó
2 Mondragó Natural Park
SLEEPING
THE GUIDE
Cala 3 Cala d’Or
d'Or EATING
B3
#
4 El Baúl
5 Gastrobar Na Petra
PortopetroÙ# 6 Restaurant Norai
65
Mondragó
Natural Park 46 66
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
1
ġ2 ħ Cala
Mondragó
Mediterranean
Sea
Cala e00 2 km
Ù
# Figuera 1 mile
Cala S’Amarador in Mondragó Natural Park
WHERE TO STAY
Iberostar Club Cala Barca Melia Cala d’Or Playa Mondragó

Large resort hotel with Boutique Hotel Unpretentious hotel just by
fabulous pools, a kids area and A slight Caribbean feel, with Mondragó beach. Get a room
a private beach. €€ gardens, pools and bright with a sea view. €
rooms near the sea. €€
155

PARC NACIONAL ^ Palma
DE L’ARXIPÈLAG
THE GUIDE
Parc Nacional
DE CABRERA de l'Arxipèlag
de Cabrera
#
Spread over an archipelago of 19 uninhabited islands and a

SOUTHERN MALLORCA
vast sea area, the Parc Nacional de L’Arxipèlag de Cabrera is

Spain’s largest natural park. Once used to house French pris- GETTING ORIENTATED
oners during the Napoleonic Wars, it has a rich history. Trav-
Wear good shoes for hiking,
el by boat to Illa de Cabrera, the largest island and the only as the routes are stony. If
one directly accessible by boat tour. Several excursions depart you have booked to stay
daily from Colònia de Sant Jordi, where the national park has in the island refuge, note
an aquarium that will enchant younger visitors. Explore Illa that access is by foot only
de Cabrera's hiking trails, go birdwatching or snorkel in the along an uneven route. Sun
protection and water are
waters of the archipelago to discover its incredible marine life essential for a visit here,
featuring over 500 species. Visitors can arrange an overnight and remember to leave the
stay on the island in the summer months at the Cabrera shelter. natural park pristine.
Illa de Cabrera
P I R AT ES , B I R D S A N D A CAST L E
Once you arrive at Illa de Cabrera by boat, if hiking, head to

BEST BEACHES the castle, Castillo de Cabrera. This 14th-century fortress
on the Parc Nacional de L’Arxipèlag de Cabrera's main island,
Sa Plageta 72m above the sea, was originally built to defend against pirate
Small, stony beach attacks. It takes about half an hour to walk from the port up
with mastic and olives to the castle on the western side of the island. Alternatively,
by the sea. take the shorter route south passing the church and Cabre-
S’Espalmador ra National Park Refuge (where you can stay the night in
Harder-to-reach, basic accommodation in what was once an old military camp,
140m-long shingle but book in advance as there are only 12 places available) to
beach, with calm Sa Plageta beach backed by pine trees. This makes a great
emerald waters. stop for a swim and a picnic. S’Espalmador is another love-
Cala Donzell ly island beach. Continue further along to the Es Celler mu-
A 50m-long beach seum (passing a memorial to the French prisoners who died
consisting of sand on Cabrera during the Napoleonic Wars), which details the
and rocks. Quiet island's history. For hikes further afield – for example to vis-
without too many it Picamosques (the highest point of the island at 172m) or
visitors. N’Ensiola lighthouse – both permission and a guide are
Cala Santa María required. For birdwatchers, see if you can spot peregrine
Off-the-beaten-track falcons, Eleonora’s falcons, fisher eagles, ospreys and shear-
sand-and-shingle waters. The island is a wildlife haven, and home to the liz-
beach. ards synonymous with the Balearics. Several boat excursions
will stop at Cova Blava (the Blue Cave) on the north side of
the island, notable for guess what…the ‘blueness’ of its water.
156

Parc Nacional
e00 2 km
1 mile Arxipèlag HIGHLIGHTS
de Cabrera 1 Cova Blava
Illa des SIGHTS
Conills
2 Castillo de Cabrera
THE GUIDE
Mediterranean
Sea 3 Es Celler
4 N’Ensiola Lighthouse
5 Sa Plageta
6 S’Espalmador
Cova 1
Blava u SLEEPING
Parc Nacional Marítim- 7 Cabrera National
Terrestre de Park Refuge
Q2 l’Arxipèlag de Cabrera
SOUTHERN MALLORCA
C7
6ħ ħ
5
I3
Illa de
Cabrera
4X
NIKIFOROV ALEXANDER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Illa de Cabrera
WHERE TO FIND THE BEST OF ILLA DE CABRERA
Es Celler Jardí Botànic Cova Blava (Blue Cave)

This ethnographic and natural An impressive selection of A sea cave with the bluest of
history museum gives an island vegetation at this waters.
insight into the island’s rich botanic garden.
history.
157

TOOLKIT
158
17-section-3-mao6.indd 158 1/26/2023 4:44:35 PM

TOOLKIT
The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll need
to know about in Mallorca. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts information and
valuable insights to help you understand and navigate Mallorca and get the
most out of your trip.
Arriving Getting Around Money Accommodation

p160 p161 p162 p163
Family Travel Health & Safe Food, Drink Responsible

p164 Travel & Nightlife Travel
p165 p166 p168
LGBTIQ+ Accessible How to Visit Nuts & Bolts

Travellers Travel the Markets p173
p170 p171 p172
Language
Fisher repairing nets in Palma (p42) p174
ZIXIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
159

Arriving
TOOLKIT
Palma de Mallorca is one of the busiest airports in Europe in the summer

months. The airport is 9km from the city centre. There are plenty of shops
and cafes in the terminals en route to the arrivals hall (you arrive via the
departure lounge area). Alternatively, arrive by ferry. Palma and Alcúdia
have regular ferry routes – main services are from Barcelona, Dénia, Ibiza,
Valencia, Mahon/Ciutadella (Menorca) and Toulon (France).
Passport SIM Cards Post-COVID Wi-fi

Make sure you have Local SIM cards are Travel Free wi-fi is available
six months left on widely available and Check the current in the airport upon
your non-EU passport work in European and guidance on any registration and
from the date of Australian mobile restrictions in login. Wi-fi access is
intended departure. phones. While EU place (ie required widespread in Palma
UK travellers will roaming is in place for vaccination status and in hotels around
experience additional EU travellers, outside proof). By law you are the island.
passport checks due of those countries technically required
to Brexit. tariffs may vary. to carry your ID at
all times.
Public transport from Airport to city centre TIME
Palma Alcúdia Sóller Mallorca runs on Central European

time (GMT/UTC plus one hour).
15 40 30 Daylight saving is in place from
mins mins mins the last Sunday in March until the
€20-25 €65-85 €40-50 last Sunday in October. If travelling
TAXI from the UK, Ireland, Portugal or
the Canary Islands, it will be one
hour behind Mallorca. From the
To Palma every 30 minutes in high season, USA, Spanish time is USA Eastern
costs €5, children under 5 free Time + 6 hours. From Australia,
BUS during the Spanish summer months
subtract eight hours from Eastern
Standard Time to get Spanish time.
Changes seasonally and on demand. During the Australian summer
Deals from €20 daily but can be as high
as €70–130. Book well in advance.
months, subtract 10 hours. Bear
CAR in mind, on the island services
sometimes run a bit on ‘island time’.
It is not unusual for people to arrive
Several package holiday firms will provide a little later than advertised!
shuttle pick-up for free, times vary (enquire
at time of booking).
SHUTTLE
160 RIGHT: ODUA IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Getting Around
TOOLKIT
Transport around Mallorca is reasonably priced, and in the high season bus
or train travel is fairly easy. In low season, car hire is the best option.
Hiring a Car Road Conditions

T R AV E L C O S T S
Easily available from Roads on Mallorca
the airport or from the are in good condition
main resort locations, generally and
car hire is usually main routes well
inexpensive but it is signposted. In the TIP
Rental best booked well in countryside or on
Palma is a cycling-
From €20/day advance, particularly the mountain routes
friendly city. Pick up
in high season when expect narrow passing a bike-share bike in
demand for vehicles points, potholed town and enjoy the
on the island is at a surfaces and a lack of promenade cycle
premium. signage. lanes by the sea.
Petrol
Approx T R A I N T R AV E L
€1.725/litre
If travelling on one of the island train routes,
note some of the newer trains use the new lower
platforms. Listen out for announcements while
waiting for your train in case you need to wait
EV charging at a particular end of the platform. For a special
€5/15 mins train journey and to be transported back in time,
travel from Palma to Sóller on the old-fashioned
carriages that cut through mountain tunnels
and the beautiful Tramuntana scenery, then DRIVING
take a tram to the Port de Sóller. ESSENTIALS
Train ticket from Scan this
Palma to Sóller QR code for
from €18 up-to-date
timetables
and routes
Drive on the right.
50
Bus & Train Ferry Parking Speed limit
Both bus and train are Fancy visiting some Parking in Palma can be is 30km/h or
inexpensive. You can of the other Balearic a challenge; head for 50 km/h in urban
buy tickets as you go Islands? Regular one of the underground areas, 90km/h on
or for longer periods. ferry connections will car parks and stick to secondary roads
See Intermodal station take you to Menorca the outskirts of the city. and 120km/h on
in Palma for tickets and (from Alcúdia in the Elsewhere look for the motorways.
passes. For the most north) or to Ibiza (from pay-and-display bays
up-to-date timetables Palma) and from there with blue lines for paid
and routes visit tib.org. it’s a very short boat parking, or in more
Note service frequency trip to Formentera. rural locations seek out
reduces somewhat in Short flights are also unmarked spots. Note local drivers do
the low season. an option, though not always indicate
less environmentally at roundabouts.
friendly. 161

Money
TOOLKIT
C U R R E N CY: E U R O (€)
Save
HOW
HOW MUCH Some
TO…
FOR A … Euros
If you have a student
Credit Cards & Digital Payment card or can prove you
ATMS Many shops will accept are a senior citizen,
Most hotels and digital payments, but then there may be
restaurants accept credit have a card or cash Entry to La Seu reductions on travel
cards: out-of-the-way to hand in case of any cathedral and terrace and admission to
restaurants, taxis, public technical difficulties. tour museums or sights.
transport or smaller €12 Many museums are
tourist attractions may free of charge, and
not, so it’s wise to have
many sights and
cash with you. ATMs
galleries have a ‘free’
are widely available
and accept most cards. day during the week,
Watch out for high Boat tour of the bay usually on a Sunday,
ATM charges on some €13-100 when you can enter
machines. The cost will free of charge. Check
be clearly indicated in advance.
on the screen before
the transaction is
completed. Train from Palma to
Sóller
Cash €18
Useful for small purchases, market buys or

coffee shop stops. Avoid taking more cash to
the beach than that needed for sunbed hire,
ice creams and drinks. Some buses, taxis and
occasional smaller family-run restaurants may
insist on cash, so check in advance.
LOCAL TIP
It is customary
to leave a small
donation when
visiting the local
churches.
TIPPING ETIQUETTE
In hotels, a couple tip of 10% (15% if

of euros per bag feeling generous) is
is standard and appreciated, but not
a gratuity for expected. In taxis a
cleaning staff is at tip is not expected,
your discretion. In but most round up to
restaurants, if the the nearest euro.
service is good a
162

Accommodation
TOOLKIT
Seek Out a Retreat
For hikers and those in search of something special, spend
the night at one of Mallorca’s mountain refuges along the key
hiking routes, or stay in one of the island sanctuaries (which
offer rooms ranging from cell-like simplicity to hotel comfort-
level). Often located in privileged locations of natural beauty.
Finca Farm Stay HOW MUCH FOR

Many of Mallorca’s gorgeous old A NIGHT IN . . .
fincas or country estates have
been renovated and now offer
luxurious accommodation in soulful
settings – go chic or full-on rural, or
both. Some offer healing retreats
Camp Out
a monastery Mallorca is a hiker’s paradise,
with on-site pools and spas, others
€25 and COVID times saw an uptick
are more back-to-nature working
in van-life travellers visiting the
farms.
island. Wild camping is strictly
Find a Local Guesthouse banned on the island (due to
the risk of forest fires); however,
There are many houses available
a midrange hotel there are some magical permitted
for private hire throughout the options including Campament
island (often available to book €80-120
Lluc by Monestir de Lluc in the
through sites like booking.com or mountains, or Campament La
Airbnb). This is generally a self- Victòria, which is situated on a
catering option, good for a family gorgeous headland.
stay (many places offer a pool or
a garden), and can give a more a guesthouse
authentic sense of island living. from €40
Eco Stays
Worried about your travel footprint? Choose an eco-stay
on the island at a guesthouse, finca or hotel focused on
responsibility and ethical consumption. Places such as
Ecocirer offer workshops as well.
M I N D F U L S TAYS
Hotels are king on Mallorca as usage. Water usage is particularly

tourism is so essential to the a concern as the island’s
island economy, but it creates a resources are stretched in the
tension with the local population. summer months by the swell in
On the one hand everyone is visitors. Damage to the marine
glad of tourist investment and environment from cruise ships or
tourists are generally warmly yachts is also an issue. Mindful
welcomed. On the other there tourism is the way to go.
are real concerns about resource
TOP LEFT: 9DREAM STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, BOTTOM LEFT: MARTI BUG CATCHER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, 163
TOP RIGHT: TIERNEYMJ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, BOTTOM RIGHT: VITALY KOROVIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Family Travel
Mallorca has a wide range of activities and attractions to hold the attention of
TOOLKIT
children, from water parks to castles, adventure activities to fun days at the
beach. The Mallorcans are very family-oriented and children are welcome in
most settings. A few hotels are resolutely adult-only, but these are the exception.
Many hotels offer kids clubs with childcare and activities for all ages.
Sights Facilities
Child concessions are often Reserve a cot (una cuna) or child’s K I D - F R I E N D LY
available on admission fees to bed (una camita) in advance when AC T I V I T I E S
sights, attractions, museums making your hotel booking, and Aqualand (p65)
and exhibitions, as well as on request a family room if needed. Water park with slides
accommodation; however, age Sometimes a cot or additional and attractions, and
ranges may vary, so check in small bed for a child will cost extra. a splash park for little
advance. Many places offer a ‘free’ The same goes for car seats when ones.
day, but again check before visiting hiring a car – book in advance or Coves del Drac (p141)
to save on costs. Bear in mind, those bring your own. Pharmacies are Porto Cristo’s magical
days tend to be busier as a result. often closed on Sundays. Most underground caves
hotels can call a local doctor if will transport kids to
needed. Nappy-changing facilities another world.
in restaurants are limited. La Reserva (p58)
Take to the mountains,
trek in nature, swim
in waterfalls, and
see eagles and
bears up close in
Getting Around Eating Out this environmentally
If hiring a car, child safety If you are looking for kids’ conscious nature park.
seats are essential and can be menus, larger hotels are more Jungle Parc (p71)
expensive to hire (about €10 likely to provide this option. For adrenaline-packed
per day), so it may be better Generally in restaurants it outdoor adventure
to bring your own with you. is less likely, but most will activities and ziplining.
Transport on buses and trains offer a range of kid-friendly
Horse Riding
is either free or reduced for options when prompted. Not
Many options around
children. all restaurants will have high
the island; check out
chairs; check when booking
the horse-riding camps
and request to
at Easter at La Gubia
reserve it.
(p86) for a range of
day-long activities.
F E S T I VA L F U N
One of the most fun experiences carnival just for kids: Sa Rueta.
for children can be to participate Local libraries usually post
in one of the many island festivals. information about upcoming
These often include workshops events, workshops and activities,
(music, art, dance) for children and both online and on noticeboards
can be a nice way to connect to inside the library. This can be a
local life. Carnaval is particularly good way to find out about more
popular. In Palma, alongside the unusual events.
main Carnaval Sa Rua, there is a
164 LEFT: LIMIPIX/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: ASCANNIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Health & Safe Travel
TOOLKIT
INSURANCE
In these post-COVID times, travel insurance while not

compulsory is good to have. Take out a policy that
covers you for flight disruption and cancellation, and
medical care. EU travellers can use the European
Health Insurance Card to cover emergency medical
treatment free of charge.
Heat Exhaustion Bites & Stings

SWIMMING
With its sea breezes, you can be Mosquitoes can be an issue in the
lulled into thinking it is cooler than warmer months, and if hiking watch Every year there
it really is on the island. Hikers out for ticks in long grass or on are tourists who
and cyclists in particular are at narrow paths between trees. Cover die in swimming
accidents.
risk of heat exhaustion, even on up (especially at dawn and dusk)
Exercise caution,
overcast days. Wear a hat, use sun and use anti-mosquito spray. A
check swimming
protection, stay out of the midday mosquito net at night-time can be conditions, don’t
heat and if you are being active handy, especially if you are staying swim alone and
make sure to have plenty of water somewhere rural or without air- keep a close eye
with you. conditioning. Wasps can be an issue on children.
in summer. Jellyfish are present at
times; check before swimming.
S W I M S A F E LY
Green flag Yellow flag Orange flag Red flag Black flag
Safe to swim Exercise extreme Lifeguard is not Dangerous Beach is closed,
caution, stay near on duty conditions, banned there could be a
lifeguards from swimming dangerous risk to
health
S O L O T R AV E L
Natural Disasters
Mallorca is a mostly safe and friendly
While mostly a sunny destination,
Mallorca can suffer from heavy destination, but the usual precautions are
thunderstorms, hailstones and advised. If you receive unwanted attention,
flooding. If you get caught out in usually simply ignoring it (whether comments,
a storm, seek shelter indoors if
possible. In the summer months
catcalling or staring) will be sufficient. Inland
forest fires are a concern. Stay and in the towns people tend to dress more
alert and responsible particularly conservatively.
in forested areas. 165

Food Drink
& Nightlife
TOOLKIT
When to Eat
Desayuno (7-9am) Breakfast is something
light, often just a coffee and a pastry MENU DECODER
Almuerzo (10-11.30am) A heartier snack, Note that menus courgettes, potatoes,
may be in Catalan or aubergines and garlic
often a bocadillo (baguette sandwich)
Spanish.
USEFUL WORDS
La Comida (1.30-3.30pm) Lunch, usually COMMON LOCAL Carne de res: Beef
leisurely DISHES Cerdo: Pork
Arròs brut: ‘Dirty Cerveza/caña: A
Merienda (5-7pm) Usually something rice’; dish with small beer
sweet, such as a slice of cake with a coffee pork, vegetables,
Jarra de vino: Wine
sometimes rabbit
jar
Tapas (6.30-8pm) Optional or alternative Bottifarra: Pork
Pescado: Fish
to cena; small portions with drinks sausages, an island
speciality Pollo: Chicken
Cena (9-11pm) Dinner, usually a lighter Pa amb oli: Often Postre: Dessert
meal than lunch served, bread with oil Mariscos: Seafood
Sobrassada: Cured Menu del dia:
pork sausage, Good-value, set-price
Where to Eat flavoured with salt lunch, usually offered
Celler: Wine-cellar and paprika Monday to Friday
restaurant with classic, Trempó: Salad of Raciones: Small
traditional home cooking chopped peppers, plates of food
Mallorcan style; local onions and tomatoes Sin Gluten: Gluten-
and low-key dining Tortilla Española: free
Spanish omelette Vegetariano:
Cafe: From morning Tumbet: Tomato Vegetarian
coffee to light bites to and vegetable Vino blanco/tinto:
evening tapas or drinks, stew usually with White/red wine
many with outdoor
terraces
HOW Order a Coffee
Chiringuito: Beach TO… Order a coffee and watch the world
shack serving snacks, go by on the leafy Palma streets or
drinks, ice creams and the town squares inland.
sometimes tapas Want to order in Spanish? For espresso, ask
for café solo; for a macchiato, ask for a cortado;
Confitería: Also known and if for a latte, café con leche. If you want milk
as a forn (more bakery) with only a little coffee, ask for manchado. Say
or a pastelería; come descafeinado for decaffeinated or con hielo for
here for sweet treats and iced coffee. Carajillo will include a liqueur or
pastries brandy, and Bombón is with condensed milk.
To do the same in the local Mallorquin, try the
Marisquería: Seafood following: cafè amb llet (latte), cafè exprés
restaurant (espresso), descafeïnat (decaf), with si us plau
(please) and moltes gràcies (thanks very much).
Tabernas/Tasca:
Have your coffee with an ensaïmada, a
Rustic, tavern-style Mallorcan cream- or chocolate-filled pastry, or
setting, serving hearty have a slice of gató Mallorquí, an almond cake.
meals or tapas
166 LEFT: ANDYD/GETTY IMAGES ©,RIGHT: DOLORES PRECIADO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Go Out
HOW
HOW MUCH TO… For some, an evening out starts early. In Palma’s
FOR A … Santa Catalina, for example, come the end of the
week, the Tardeo begins (afternoon drinks and tapas).
Beach clubs crank up the music and move from
daytime to evening mode. More typically tapas
TOOLKIT
and drinks begin about 6.30pm and involves
sampling food and drinks at a few different bars.
Glass of wine Sa Gx barrio in Palma has a dedicated tapas
from €2 route of 25 bars called La Ruta Martiana
(the Martian route). Did You Know?
A sundowner from a beach club bar,
a chiringuito on the sand or drinks at a The origin of the term tapas is
rooftop bar in the city are a good way unknown. Some think it comes from
to catch the sunset. In Palma, families ‘to tapar’, or cover a drink with food,
Coffee
and couples go for a paseo (an evening from when slices of bread were
€1.50 used in Andalucía to cover glasses
stroll) along the leafy Passeig des
Born or La Rambla. Restaurants start of sherry from flies.
to serve around 8.30pm until 11pm, with
most people eating late (including families
with children).
Pint of beer
Bars get busy around 11pm onwards, and for
€1.50-6
clubs usually about 1am is when people start heading across
from the bars. Depending on the venue you might want to get
your name on the guest list in advance. There are bars, clubs
and a varied live music scene, along with evening events like
open-air cinema screenings, outdoor recitals or concerts.
Ice cream
€3
Ensaïmada
€1
Lunch (menu of W H Y D O T H E S PA N I S H E AT S O L AT E ?
the day)
from €12 With restaurants often not General Franco moved Spain to
opening until 9pm and locals Central European Time – thereby
not eating until closer to 11pm, shifting all the meal times
visitors to the island often forward an hour.
wonder about the Spanish eating If you look at the meals a
hours. Why do they eat so late? typical Spaniard eats in a day,
Dinner in a local
The most obvious reason you’ll see the day begins with
restaurant
seems to be a practical one – as breakfast (usually coffee and a
about €45 for
it is so warm during the summer pastry), then almuerzo (hearty
two people
days, it makes sense that families snacks or sandwich), then lunch
and friends choose to eat from 1.30pm to 3.30pm (and
together later in the day when the if at a restaurant this can be a
heat has died down. three-course meal) and then a
However, there are other merienda, or afternoon snack
Dinner at a reasons too. Firstly, Spain used (something sweet), about 5pm to
Michelin-star to be on Greenwich Mean Time, 7pm. You start to see why cena
restaurant on the same longitude as the UK. (dinner) doesn’t come until 9pm
from €180 for However, in a show of solidarity or later.
two people with Germany during WWII,
167

Responsible Travel
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Climate Change & Travel

It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have
when travelling, and the importance of making
changes where we can. Lonely Planet urges all
travellers to engage with their travel carbon
footprint. There are many carbon calculators
online that allow travellers to estimate the
carbon emissions generated by their journey; try
resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.
html. Many airlines and booking sites offer
travellers the option of offsetting the impact
of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing
to climate-friendly initiatives around the world.
We continue to offset the carbon footprint of all
Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising this
is a mitigation more than a solution.
Arts, Craft & Produce

Support local artisan producers. Buy local at Eco-stays
the weekly outdoor markets; you’ll find stalls Eco-stays such as Ecocirer in Sóller offer
for honey, artisan cheeses and breads, organic environmentally focused workshops and a
produce and handcrafted goods made with sustainable ethos, along with plant-based cooking.
sustainable materials. You can also stay on an inland finca with a working
farm, and learn about rural life first-hand.
Animal Rescue Projects
Go horse riding with Natura Cavall, which takes
in horses in need of rescue and nurses them
back to health, and provides horse-riding treks
in nature (in a natural park or by the sea).
Eat at one of the Leave the car
Natural Landscape & Wild island’s 0km behind and go
Learn about the natural landscape with a hiking restaurants; Béns hiking in the
and wildlife guide, or take a tour of a country D’Avall or Andana mountains or along
are good examples the coastal routes
estate such as Son Moragues, where locals will
of chefs growing and of the island.
explain the history and landscape management
using local produce in
of the present day and you can sample local their kitchens.
olive oil.
Save the Med

This organisation works locally to raise
awareness of environmental issues, especially
marine protection. Their mission is to ‘enable
the Mediterranean Sea to recover its rich
biodiversity’ and there is a programme of
marine education in schools and regular beach
clean-ups. Play your part by leaving the island’s
beaches, mountains and countryside clean
during your visit.
168 TOP LEFT: NPETER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, BOTTOM LEFT: BEARFOTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; RIGHT: JULIE208/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

OPTIMUM PORTUGAL
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Government Steps
The Mallorcan government has taken several
steps to make the island an eco-tourism
destination and increasingly is working to
protect the island’s environment. The eco-tax Join a beach Leave the beaches
brought in in 2017 (each visitor pays a small ‘tax’ clean-up day run clean after your
daily, added to their hotel stay) is used to invest by one of the local visit. Be mindful
in projects to protect the environment within environmental and take all your
the island; for example, funding the upkeep of charities. rubbish with you.
hiking routes, building new cycle paths, and
restoring cultural heritage buildings and sites.
There is a longer-term plan under way to create
a network of ‘zonas verdes’ or green zones
throughout Palma, to reduce flooding and
environmental damage, to grow biodiversity
and to create a healthier environment for
residents and tourists alike, along with a focus
Trees
on solar energy investment and increasing
awareness of water resource management
needs. Check the ticker in Plaça
d’Espanya, or scan the code
below, to see how many trees have
been planted to date as part of
Palma’s 10,000 Trees project.
Banning Single-Use Plastics

RESOURCES
In 2021 Mallorca banned single-use plastic.
This does not yet extend to plastic bottles,
and this is where local organisations are mallorcapreserva marilles.org Supports
stepping in. Support organisations like local tion.org Focused on projects working on
cleanwave.org, who worked to set up free projects protecting marine diversity
water-bottle refill points throughout the island the environment. and protection.
so that water bottles can be easily refilled, and
thereby reduce the usage of plastic bottles and
subsequent waste.
Buy fresh organic produce at any of the eco-markets or the Agromart supermarkets on
the island, which sell local organic goods, and produce by local producers, including
olive oils, almonds and olives.
169

LGBTIQ+ Travellers
Homosexuality is legal in Spain, a traditionally conservative country, with same-
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sex marriage having been legalised in 2005 by the then socialist president of
Spain, José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero. In Mallorca, Palma is at the heart of gay
culture on the island.
Palma Pride
Week & Festivals
Palma Pride Week
sees a week of
concerts, masterclasses,
performances, talks, DJs, a
storyteller, workshops, theatre
and events taking place through
E L L A I N T E R N AT I O N A L
Palma in June. It culminates in Pride
L E S B I A N F E S T I VA L
Day on 28 June. Organisation Ben
Amics hosts a street party and rally, and The Ella International Lesbian Festival
there is the Out! Film Festival with diverse (ellafestival.com) has a programme
programming over several days of Pride of events, talks, excursions, dinners
Week. See palma.cat for details. and parties. There’s volleyball, yoga,
paddlesurfing and more on the
beach programme.
BEN AMICS Gay-Friendly Bars

The island’s umbrella Palma in particular is welcoming and proud. Some gay-
organisation for members of the friendly locales:
LGBTIQ+ community, Ben Amics, The2 Palma: Friendly bar with DJs, cocktails, drag show
can provide information: benamics. (@the2palma)
com. Based in Palma at Carrer
Guillem Galmes, 2, the office is La Dama de Ella: Tapas cafe, with bar open late
usually open from 9am to 3pm. (@ladamadeella)
Bar Michel: Tapas, music, friendly atmosphere in El Terreno
(@bar_michel)
Mallorca Gay Map

W E E K LY L I S T I N G S See mallorcagaymap.
com for a guide to
For latest weekly events listings see Gay Mallorca (gay- gay-friendly attractions
Mallorca.blogspot.com). (including restaurants,
clubs, bars and hotels).
The Mallorca Gay Map is
also available in printed
format from the tourist
office in Palma.
170 LEFT: ALEXANDER SPATARI/GETTY IMAGES ©, RIGHT: OLEGDOROSHIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Accessible Travel
Mallorca is a mix of accessibility-friendly and still having a way to go, but efforts
TOOLKIT
are being made to make venues and locations more accessible.
Getting Around
Palma and many of the island’s villages and RESOURCES
towns have steep, cobbled streets, which creates
accessibility challenges. While main pavement Accessible Spain
areas and crossings have been designed with Travel can help
accessibility in mind, other areas can be harder Scan for a organise accessible
to access. Many train stations have accessibility helpful listing holidays, including
issues due to barriers at exit and entry points that of accessible accessible
are generally unmanned. rooms. accommodation and
private tours.
Airport Accommodation
There is a reduced mobility Larger hotels will Handiscover lists a
service at the airport. It is offer adapted guide to accessible
available 24/7 but must be rooms. The website travel on the island.
booked 48 hours ahead. accessibletravelspain.
Airport operator AENA also com has a helpful listing
has an information and of rooms, detailing access
customer service line for and facilities, and covering
anyone with hearing and/ a range of budgets.
or speech impairment.
Bus Accessibility
TA X I S
TIB buses in Palma have a dedicated
You can book an wheelchair space and stop request
adapted taxi in button placed lower down. Other buses
advance. Check with around the island may not yet offer the
your hotel in advance same level of access.
for taxi bookings.
Scan for a list
of accessible
AC C E S S I B L E B E AC H E S beaches.
For a list of accessible beaches around the island,

see disabledaccessibletravel.com. It lists beaches BRAILLE MAPS
including Alcúdia, Magaluf, Palmanova, San Telmo Alcúdia has braille maps of the
area available from the tourist
and Cala Millor as having good access – with reserved office.
parking spaces, pavement access, support staff and
amphibious chairs for an accessible swim. There are
also accessible bathrooms.
171

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Nuts and dried fruit at Sineu’s market (p127)
HOW Visit the Markets

TO… Despite the proliferation of large supermarkets on the MADE IN
outskirts of the main island towns, a weekly market is a MALLORCA
key part of Mallorcan life. It provides an opportunity to meet and talk to Discover products
local producers – artisanal honey growers or cheesemakers, olive growers, made in Mallorca.
craftspeople or local bakers – and gain some insight into island traditions On Saturday, for
while sampling the products. example, visit
Mallorca Natur
Check the Market Days action is to be found at the main (jabondemallorca.
square near the church and the Plaça com) at Sóller
Each town has a set market day so market and
des Fossar. Inca’s market focuses
check in advance. For example, discover natural
on traditional products such as
Sóller holds a large market every and handmade
textiles, leather goods, footwear and
Saturday morning with a mix of cosmetics
ceramics, and tends to be frequented
stalls running from the train station (perfumes, soaps,
more by locals than tourists.
down to the main square and lip balms etc), all
beyond, including along Calle Luna. made locally with
Watch Your Belongings virgin olive oil, virgin
There is a mix of food, clothing, bric-
a-brac, flowers, leather goods and While a visit to the local markets can almond oil and
local crafts. Santa María del Camí be lots of fun, keep an eye on your organic essential
belongings in the crowds. oils. Owner and
has a popular market on Sundays,
soap maker Joachim
and one of the largest on the island
Night Markets Pourqué will explain
is held in Pollença every Sunday. how the products
In the summer months several towns
are made locally.
Flea Market Finds and resorts hold night-time markets. It’s a good way to
For a fun Sunday morning, visit Visit the port at Alcúdia (6pm to take home some of
the popular flea market at Consell 10pm Wednesday to Saturday), the famous Sóller
for secondhand clothes, furniture, Playa del Muro (all evenings 7pm oranges.
antiques, jewellery and local goods. to 11pm) or Santa Ponça (7pm to
midnight). Cala d’Ór in the east has a
Local Flavours night market on Sundays.
Both Sineu (Wednesdays) and Inca Bring Cash
(Thursdays) have markets with a
wide range of stalls to explore. Bring some cash with you to the
Sineu’s market has been running for markets. Not all stallholders will
more than 700 years and gives an accept cards, or only over certain
authentic flavour of island life. Visit purchase amounts, so cash is
from 8.30am to 1.30pm. Most of the helpful to have to hand.
172
TOP: JOHN GOMEZ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, BOTTOM: YASONYA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Nuts & Bolts
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OPENING HOURS GOOD TO
PUBLIC
KNOW H O L I DAYS
Opening hours vary throughout the
year. Hours will generally decrease New Year’s Day
in the shoulder and low seasons. 1 January
In some areas, many shops close Day of the Kings
during winter. Time Zone 6 January
GMT/UTC plus
Banks 8.30am-2pm Monday to Friday, one hour; daylight San Sebastián
some open 9am-1pm Saturday saving March to 20 January (local to
October Palma)
Bars 7pm-3am
Balearics Day 1 March
Cafes 9am-7pm Holy Thursday March/
April
Clubs midnight- 6am Thursday to Country Code
Saturday +34 Good Friday March/
April
Post offices 8.30am-9.30pm Monday to
Friday, 8.30am-2pm Saturday Easter Monday
March/April
Restaurants 1-3.30pm and 7.30-11pm San Juan 24 June
Emergency
number (local to Palma)
Shopping malls 10am-10pm
112
Asunción de la Virgin
Shops 10am-2pm and 4.30-7.30pm or 15 August
5-8pm Monday to Friday, 10am-1pm
Saturday Fiesta Nacional
12 October
Supermarkets 10am-9pm Monday to Population
924,000 All Saint’s Day
Saturday for larger supermarkets 1 November
Dia de la
Constitución
Electricity 220V/50Hz
6 December
Weights & Measures Inmaculada

Concepción
Spain uses the metric
8 December
system. Decimals are
indicated by commas, Christmas Day
thousands by points. 25 December
Smoking
Tap Water Many Mallorcans
Tap water is of varying smoke, but generally
quality and is not always outside on the
safe to drink. Fill up at terraces or a step
the free water-bottle away from them.
refill stations. Type C Type F
220V/50Hz 230V/50Hz
173

Language
Mallorca is a bilingual island, with Spanish and Catalan (català), or its local
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dialect, Mallorquin, all in use. Spanish remains the lingua franca, especially
between Mallorquins and other Spaniards or foreigners.
Entrada Entrance
Hombres Men NUMBERS
Basics Mujeres Women
Hello. Hola. o·la
Goodbye. Adiós. a·dyos
Prohibido Prohibited
Salida Exit 1
Servicios/Aseos Toilets uno oo·no
Yes. Sí. see
No. No. no
Please. Por favor. por fa·vor 2
Thank you. Gracias. gra·thyas Time dos dos
How are you? ¿Qué tal? ke tal
Fine, thanks. Bien, gracias. byen
What time is it? ¿Qué hora es? ke
o·ra es 3
gra·thyas It’s (10) o’clock. Son (las diez). son tres tres
Excuse me. Perdón. per·don (las dyeth)
Sorry. Lo siento. lo syen·to Half past (10). Es (la una) y media.
es (la oo·na) ee me·dya
4
What’s your name? ¿Cómo se cuatro
llama Usted? ko·mo se lya·ma morning mañana. ma·nya·na kwa·tro
oo·ste afternoon tarde. tar·de
My name is … Me llamo … me
lya·mo …
evening noche. no·che
yesterday ayer. a·yer
5
Do you speak English? ¿Habla cinco
today hoy. oy theen·ko
(inglés)? a·bla (een·gles)
tomorrow mañana. ma·nya·na
I don’t understand. Yo no
entiendo. yo no en·tyen·do 6
seis seys
Emergencies
Directions Help! ¡Socorro! so·ko·ro 7
Where’s ...? Go away! ¡Vete! ve·te siete sye·te
¿Dónde está …? don·de es·ta … I’m ill. Estoy enfermo/a. es·toy
What’s the address? en·fer·mo/a (m/f) 8
¿Cuál es la dirección? kwal es la Call ...! ¡Llame ...! lya·me ocho o·cho
dee·rek·thyon a doctor a un médico. a oon
Could you please write it down?
¿Puede escribirlo, por favor?
me·dee·ko
the police a la policía. a la
9
pwe·de es·kree·beer·lo por fa·vor po·lee·thee·a nueve nwe·ve
Can you show me (on the map)?
¿Me lo puede indicar (en el mapa)? 10
me lo pwe·de een·dee·kar (en el Eating & drinking diez dyeth
ma·pa) What would you recommend?
¿Qué recomienda? ke
re·ko·myen·da
Signs Cheers! ¡Salud! sa·loo
Abierto Open That was delicious.
Cerrado Closed ¡Estaba buenísimo! es·ta·ba
174 bwe·nee·see·mo

D O N AT I O N S T O Mallorquin Basics
ENGLISH
Mallorquin is spoken by the islanders,
Numerous – you may who are proud of their Balearic roots. If
recognise canyon, you greet and thank people in Mallorquin
guerrilla, ranch, (particularly in the interior of the island
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tornado… away from the tourist hubs) you’ll be
rewarded with a warm smile.
Hello Bon dia (Bon di-a) meaning ‘good

DISTINCTIVE SOUNDS day’, or hola (ola) meaning hello
Good afternoon Bona tarda (bo-a tard)
The strong and rolled ‘r’, harsh and guttural for use after around 3pm
‘kh’ and lisping ‘th’. How are you? Uep, com anam? Uep
(wh-ep) is very common Mallorcan usage,
a filler word used as a interjectory ‘well’
or ‘oh’ or ‘hi’. Com anam means ‘how is it
False Friends Must-Know going?’ The typical response is Bé, tot bé
Grammar (Well, all good).
Warning: many
Spanish words look Spanish has a formal Please Si us plau
like English words and informal word for Thank you Gràcis
but have a different ‘you’ (Usted oo·ste and Yes Sí
meaning altogether, tú too respectively). No No
eg suburbio The verbs also have Don’t mention it De res
soo·boor·byo is a slum a different ending for
Goodbye Adèu (day-ooh)/Fins un altra!
district, not a suburb each person, like the
Meaning ‘until next time’ in sense of ‘see
(which is barrio ba·ryo English ‘I do’ vs ‘he/
you soon’ or ‘see you again’.
in Spanish). she does’.
W H O S P E A K S S PA N I S H ?
Spanish, or Castilian (castellano) is primarily the language of Castille (covering the

largest territory in Spain). However, thanks to Christopher Columbus’ travels to the New
World in 1492 and Spanish colonisation, the language spread across Latin America, to
countries such as Cuba, Ecuador and Guatemala. There it has evolved differently to the
Spanish of Europe.
300 million
speak Spanish
as their first
language
Spain
Mexico Cuba
100 million
Costa Rica speak Spanish
Colombia
Equatorial Guinea as their second
language
Peru
Chile Argentina
175

STORYBOOK
176
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THE MALLORCA
STORYBOOK
Our writers delve deep into different aspects of Mallorca life
A History of Slow & Sustainable The Creative Island

Mallorca in 15 Places Tourism Mallorca offers a fantastic literary
Mallorca’s history can be traced The climate challenges, huge and artistic scene, along with film
in its emblematic places, its tourist numbers and limited festivals, theatre, opera and a wide
language, its longheld traditions, resources has prompted debate offering of live music.
its architecture and its natural about ways to mitigate this p185
environment. situation.
p178 p182
Tram between Sóller and Port de Sóller (p78)

177
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MALLORCA STORYBOOK
A HISTORY OF MALLORCA IN 15 PLACES
A HISTORY OF MALLORCA IN
15 PLACES
Set in the heart of the Mediterranean, Mallorca has been fought over
throughout the centuries by invaders, pirates and new rulers. Its
history can be traced in its emblematic places, its language, its long-
held traditions, its architecture and its natural environment.
SITUATED AT THE Mediterranean crossroads 1. Ses Païsses, Artà

between east and west, Mallorca has long T H E TA L AYOT I C PE R I O D
been a key trading and sea port. From its Travel back to prehistory times at Ses Païss-
prehistoric roots and the Talayotic Bronze es, near Artà in the northeast. This Bronze
Age, it then passed through Carthaginian, Age Talayotic settlement was named after
Phoenician, Greek, Roman, Vandal and the megalithic talayots; giant stone slabs
Byzantine hands. The island then settled making up round ‘turriform’ or square-
into a long, and mostly peaceful, period shaped tower structures dating from 1300
of Moorish rule, before the arrival of the BCE to 900 BCE. The circular turriform
13th-century Christian conquistadors from at Ses Païsses, built on a hillside, is 12m
Aragón. Remnants of this rich history, punc- wide and stands 4m tall, with stairs built
tuated by almost constant pirate and cor- into the wall. The tower has several ad-
sair raids, can be found across the island. joining chambers and excavations in 1960
In more recent centuries, Mallorca’s geo- unearthed Talayotic ceramics, burial and
graphical proximity to southern Europe, iron tools, fragments of bone and charcoal.
and its trading in particular with France, Other Talayotic sites that can be visit-
is evidenced in the linguistic heritage to ed on the island include Capocorb Vell in
the west of the island, and in the artistic the south, Necropolis de Son Realnear Ca’n
and creative influences in its painting, the Picafort and several sites around Costitx.
Modernista architectural influences and For more on Ses Païsses, see page 135.
in its literature.
Traditions hold firm on Mallorca, de- 2. Pol·lèntia
spite its astoundingly high tourist numbers T H E RO M A N PE R I O D
(more than 10 million arrive each year), The Romans arrived in 123 BCE, protect-
and beyond the tourist resorts dominat- ing their ships with heavy skins and leather
ing parts of its coastline, it remains a nat- against the stone slingshots of the Balearic
ural paradise for much part. It’s a haven warriors. Roman Consul Quintus Caecilius
for hikers and nature lovers, with a strong Metellus brought 3000 settlers from Iberia
178 local identity and rich cultural traditions. and built Palmeria (modern-day Palma in
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MALLORCA STORYBOOK
the south) and Pol·lèntia, an important town Villages such as Binibasi (with its North
on the northeastern side of the island, which African palm trees), Biniatzar and Binissa-
became the Roman capital of the Balearics. lem; names ending in -x, such as the moun-
Wander around the well-signposted exca- tain villages of Fornalutx, Biniaraix and
vated site, and imagine the grand temples, Teix; and places beginning with Al-, such
the marketplace, the tabernae (shops) and as Almundiana or Alfàbia – all hold that
the noble houses that would have made up connection to the Moorish past.
the town. Visit and soak up the sunshine on For more on Els Banys Àrabs, see p48,
the stone seats of the teatro romano (amphi- for Jardins d’Alfàbia, see p82, and for Pa-
theatre). The islanders adapted to life un- lau de l’Almudaina, see p48.

der Roman rule, but by 426 Mallorca was
under attack again, this time by the Van- 4. Carrer de Monti-Sion
dals, then later by the Byzantines in 534. T H E J E W I S H Q UA RT E R
For more on Pol·lèntia, see page 107. Carrer de Monti-Sion, in Sa Calatrava, was
once home to several thousand Jews in
3. What´s in a Name? Ciutat (the city).
T H E M U S L I M PE R I O D Earliest records of the first Jews on the
The relatively short period of Byzantine island date from 70 CE. Thriving under
rule on the island waned with the coming Muslim rule in the Medina Mayurka, many
of the Islamic centuries. There are many Jews held important roles and were known
fascinating remains of Moorish rule on the as esteemed doctors, bankers and traders,
island, including the Els Banys Àrabs (Arab often polyglot, speaking Catalan, Spanish,
baths) in Palma’s Old Town and the Alfàbia Hebrew, Arabic and Latin. However, Jews
water gardens in Bunyola. Palma’s Palau were treated harshly under Christian rule
de l’Almudaina was once the al-qasr (for- following the 1229 conquest, and locked
tress palace). The legacy is also seen in the into the ghetto on Carrer de Monti-Sion
sophisticated irrigation methods with un- at night. In the 14th century, synagogues
derground reservoirs and terraced slopes were converted into churches. The Monti-
and the centuries-old olive trees, remnants Sion synagogue became a church (Esgle-
of Moorish agricultural practice. sia del Monti-Sion), and many Jews were
Another enduring reminder of Mallor- forced to convert to Christianity.
ca’s Moorish past as ‘the Eastern Islands Today little remains of the original syn-
of Al-Andalus’ is to be found in its place agogue except for the lower foundation
names and its language. stones, in between which you will see lit-
tle pieces of paper (with wishes written on
them). Visit Centre Maimó ben Faraig in
Palma to see an exhibition charting Jew-
MATT ELLIOTT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
ish history on the island.

For more on Església del Monti-Sion,
see page 52.
5. Ramon Llull’s Puig de Randa

CATA L A N AS A L I T E R A RY L A N G UAG E
Ramon Llull (1232–1316), born in Palma,

was a theologian, philosopher, writer and
a key founding father of Catalan as a liter-
ary language. Having spent his hedonistic
younger years at the court, in 1267 he had
five visions of Christ crucified, sought med-
itative guidance as a hermit on the Puig de
Randa, and his life course changed entirely.
He trained in Hebrew and Arabic, sought
Centuries-old olive tree 179

MALLORCA STORYBOOK
moral and theological training, set up a century, echo back to the period following
monastery to teach Eastern languages and the Reconquista (the reconquest of Mus-
theology, and set out travelling through lim-held territory by the Christian king-
Europe, North Africa and the Near East, doms). With 26 towers, 1.5km of perimeter
preaching conversion. His writings were walls in an unusual pentagon shape and
in Catalan and Arabic. a moat to protect the walled city, Alcúdia
Visit the Aula de Gramática in the San- was able to keep out attackers from this
tuari de Nostra Senyora de Cura, at the top strategic northern point.
of the Puig de Randa road, to see original For more walled towns and fortress build-
manuscripts written by Llull. ings from medieval times, visit Capdepera’s
For more on the Santuari de Nostra Sen- Medieval Fair in May, which is held on its
yora de Cura, see p125. stronghold city walls; and Palma’s Palau
de l’Almudaina (once a Moorish al-qasr).
6. Monestir de Lluc For more on Alcúdia’s city walls, see
S P I R I T UA L H E A RT O F T H E I S L A N D page 107.
Legend has it that in 1229, a young boy
named Lluc found a statue of the Virgin 9. La Beata Processions
Mary in the Serra de Tramuntana. He C E L E B R AT I N G M A L LO RCA’ S PAT RO N S A I N T
brought it to a local church, where the priest One of the most evocative of the (many) local
gave it a place of honour. The next day it was festivals on the island is that of La Beata, in
found again back in the mountains, and so celebration of Santa Catalina Tomás (1531–
this was taken as a sign, or a miracle, and 74), patron saint of Mallorca. She hailed
became the site of what is now Mallorca’s from Valldemossa and it is here that celebra-
most holy sanctuary, the Monestir de Lluc. tions begin on 28 July each year. They are
Famous as a place of tranquillity and re- also held in Santa Margalida in September.
flection (where guests can stay overnight), Local townsfolk dress in traditional cos-
it is also home to the Blauets, a famous girls tume (these events date back to 1792 when
and boys’ choir, which sings every Sunday. she was beatified) or as dimonis (demons)
For more on Monestir de Lluc, see page and walk a route through the streets ac-
82. companied by musicians, marching bands
and a series of ornate floats each themed
7. Bellver Castle around a moment from the saint’s life. A
A G OT H I C FO RT R ES S young local woman is dressed as La Beata,
Bellver Castle, built on a hilltop outside and everyone gets in on the act, with kids
Palma under orders of James II in 1300, and grandparents also in costume as the
is an imposing Gothic-style circular castle floats circle the town’s streets.
that took more than nine years to build. For more on La Beata celebrations, see
Originally home of the kings of Mallorca, page 84 and page 123.
it was later used as a medieval prison, a
money-printing factory for a brief time, 10. Pirates & Watchtowers
and then again as a prison for Republican H I STO RY W I T H A V I E W
prisoners during the Spanish Civil War. A network of lookout towers dot the coast
It is now home to the Museu d’Histo- of Mallorca, and the islands of Dragonera
ria de la Ciutat (Palma’s history museum) and Cabrera. Mostly built in the 16th
and is also used for cultural events. From and 17th century, when the islands were
its terraced roof you will have 360-degree plagued with pirate or corsair incursions,
panoramic views stretching over Palma these watchtowers were manned to scan
and the Badia de Palma. the sea for incoming invaders. At the first
For more on Bellver Castle, see page 49. sighting a fire would be lit at the tower,
sending smoke signals to the neighbour-
8. City Walls, Alcúdia ing towers and spreading the word so that
M I G H T Y M E D I E VA L WA L L S local populations could prepare.
The medieval city walls surrounding the Best examples to visit include the Torre
180 Old Town of Alcúdia, dating to the 14th des Verger, near Banyalbufar, and the Torre

MALLORCA STORYBOOK
de Albercutx in Pollença, which has incred- with emotive phrases. These were original-
ible panoramic views for miles. ly built as defensive bunkers during WWII,
For more on Torre des Verger, see page should there have been a landing. There
87, or for Torre de Albercutx, see page 88. never was, but the bunkers remain, more
art installation now than line of defence.
11. Illa de Cabrera For more on Platja des Trenc, see page
FRENCH PRISONERS FROM NAPOLEONIC WARS 149.
Once home to thousands of French prison-
ers during the Napoleonic Wars of the ear- 14. Hotel Formentor
ly 19th century, today Cabrera island is a A G O L D E N AG E

pristine nature park and a tranquil hub for In 1950s Franco-era Spain, Mallorca became
marine conservation. Some 12,000 French a hub for tourism, with the first airplanes of
troops, defeated by the Spanish and Brit- tourists landing near to Cap de Formentor
ish during the Battle of Bailén, were main the north of the island. Hotel Formentor,
rooned on Cabrera island with little food, built by Argentinian Adan Diehl in 1928, be-
water or shelter. Many died from malnu- came synonymous with glamour and good
trition and disease. times – guests over the years included Char-
A little museum on the island shares lie Chaplin, Audrey Hepburn, Ava Gardner,
some of the history, as does the interpre- Elizabeth Taylor, Gary Cooper, Grace Kelly,
tation centre at the boats’ embarkment Winston Churchill and F Scott Fitzgerald.
point in Colònia de Sant Jordi. It also was an important hub for writers of
For more on Illa de Cabrera, see page 156. the day, bringing together people such as
Jorge Luis Borges, Camilo José Cela, Rob-
12. Sóller Train & Oranges ert Graves, Italo Calvino and many others.
J O U R N E Y BAC K I N T I M E The old Hotel Formentor is no more, hav-
Take the historic 1912 train from Palma ing been gutted as part of a new build by
to the Golden Valley town of Sóller. Before hotel chain Four Seasons – hopefully the
the railway line was created (requiring 13 new Hotel Formentor will pay homage to
tunnels through the Serra de Tramunta- the legacy of the past.
na), Sóller was a place apart, with stronger For more on Hotel Formentor, see page
trading links and connections with France 104.
than with the rest of the island. It’s reflect-
ed still today in the Solleric dialect. 15. Posidonia & the Turquoise Waters
Sóller is famous for its citrus fruits, and EC O LO G I CA L B LU ES
the orange trees were originally planted by One of the emblematic sights of the Balear-
French farmers who fled the 1789 French ic Islands and scenic Mallorcan postcards
Revolution to settle in the town. Later local is its turquoise water. The water in these
emigrants, returning from France, brought parts is this luminous shade due to the po-
back Art Nouveau (Modernista) influences sidonia grasses on the seabed. Posidonia
to be seen in the stunning architecture in has lived in the Mediterranean for more
the town’s leafy main square and the grand than 100,000 years, but lately has been un-
houses dotted around the town. der threat in Mallorca due to a lack of ade-
These patterns of seeking fortune else- quate marine conservation and protection.
where and the subsequent returns, bringing Recent years have seen tourist numbers
wealth, cultural and linguistic influences, skyrocket in the high-season months, put-
helped shape much of 19th-century life in ting resources under strain, and impact-
Mallorca. ing the natural environment. Successive
For more on Sóller, see page 78. island governments have proposed vari-
ous environmental plans to turn Mallorca
13. Platja des Trenc into more of an eco-destination. There is
W H I T E WAS H E D W W I I B U N K E R S a greater influence on sustainability, eco-
On Es Trenc, a wild beach stretching for awareness and a shift in thinking around
miles to the south of the island, you will seasonal tourism, and much scope to cre-
find large whitewashed bunkers, painted ate a sustainable island future. 181

Sand dunes at Cala Mesquida (p137)
MALLORCA STORYBOOK
TOLOBALAGUER.COM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
SLOW &
SLOW & SUSTAINABLE TOURISM
SUSTAINABLE
TOURISM
There is much more to Mallorca than the stereotypical
images of hedonistic, boozy holidays and cheap and
cheerful package tourism.
MOST OF THE island, away from the built- mentally conscious enterprises such as Cir-
up coastal resorts, is a natural paradise just cle Carbon Labs. Here the team work to re-
waiting to be discovered. The mountains of move carbon dioxide from the atmosphere,
the Serra de Tramuntana were added to the through the production of biochar to regen-
Unesco World Heritage List as an important erate the soil with a carbon-negative solu-
nature reserve in 2011. The island is also tion. Circle Carbon Labs uses tree cuttings
home to Cabrera National Park (Parc Na- from local sources (olive, almond, carob and
cional Marítimoterrestre de l’Arxipèlag de pine) and works with farmers to improve
Cabrera), Spain’s largest natural park, which plant growth, soil biodiversity and plant
stretches over 908 sq km to the southeast yield – all while reducing carbon dioxide
of the island. To the southwest is Sa Drag- and increasing sustainability.
onera, another pristine, uninhabited island Sitauted near Campos, brothers Jai-
and protected marine environment. And if me and Sebastián Burguera are farmers
you travel away from the coast and moun- and artisan cheesemakers. They set up
tains, you only have to visit the vineyards, Formatges Burguera, their own artisan
country towns and villages of the interi- cheese factory on the family farm, to pro-
or of the island to witness an unhurried, duce handmade high-quality cheeses, us-
peaceful and slow-living approach to life. ing milk from Holstein or Friesian cows.
In Alarò, artisan honeymaker Mel Vici They make five different products, includ-
makes honey exclusively from the island. ing llet formatjada (a buttermilk in bot-
Set up by childhood friends Biel Coll and tles). The cheeses are fermented and cured,
Pau Queralt, the work is mainly all car- creating locally grown products linked to
ried out by hand and follows the rhythm the land and its farming traditions.
of nature. The carob trees give their rich Across the island there are many other ex-
flavours to the honey in autumn, and in amples of creative, artisanal entrepreneur-
spring the honey has a lighter aroma and ship, of products being locally sourced and
hue flavoured by the spring flowers. produced, often using centuries-old tech-
This desire for a more natural connection niques. There is a growing awareness of the
182 with the land is visible too in other environ- value of retaining the old traditions and
20-essay-1-mao6.indd 182 1/24/2023 5:22:55 PM

MALLORCA STORYBOOK
knowledge, and reinvigorating these craft
skills. There is a passion (and indeed mar-
ket) for sustainable products and practice.
The island’s government has a growing
focus on the importance of ecotourism and
sustainable development for Mallorca. This
is in part a reaction to the pressures of the
mass tourism influx in the high-season
months and in part due to the internation-
al trend towards valuing the local and en-
vironmentally conscious. Examples of such
initiatives can be found in the government’s
eco-tax, implemented in recent years, which
charges tourists a small daily fee for stays
on the island. The funds are then dedicated
to supporting eco-projects such as the re-
pair of mountain walking paths or stretch-
es of dry-stone wall (built by hand by tech-
niques dating from ancient times).
There is a plan for the creation of zonas
verdes (green zones) in urban centres such as
Palma, which will make the city more walk-
able, easier to cycle, reduce car usage, and
improve air quality and local biodiversity.
Another initiative, well under way, is 10,000
Arbres – a plan to plant 10,000 new trees situation. In March 2021 the island banned
throughout the city. There is a counter in the use of single-use plastic in a step to pro-
central Plaça d’Espanya, which keeps track tect the local environment, and local organ-
of how many have been planted to date. isation Clean Wave (cleanwavefoundation.
Local charities and citizen organisations org) has worked to create free water-refill
such as Save the Med (savethemed.org) points throughout Palma and elsewhere on
and Marilles Foundation (marilles.org) are the island, campaigning to raise awareness
working to protect the precious marine en- and to encourage responsible plastic use.
vironment surrounding the island – un- On the Day of Tourism in September 2022,
der threat from yachts’ and boats’ anchors as Mallorca was celebrating the best in class
damaging the posidonia (seagrasses) on throughout the hotels and tourist services
the seabed (which are responsible for the on the island, at the same time a large pub-
sea’s gorgeous, turquoise hue). Water usage lic rally was taking place with participants
is a major concern too, especially at a time forming a human chain around the gov-
when globally we are seeing the impacts of ernment buildings, to signify concern with
climate change with long, unusually hot unchecked mass tourism and its negative
summer months (in 2022 temperatures impact on island life. The island is heavily
reached over 44°C, the highest- ever tem- reliant on tourism (in 2020 Rosana Morillo,
perature on the island), along with drought director general of tourism in the Balearic
and heavily reduced reservoir levels due Islands, estimated that the island has about
to lack of rainwater. 200,000 jobs that depend on tourism; oth-
The climate challenges, coupled with the ers say the figure is closer to 35%) yet there
huge increase in tourists to the islands in is a very strong public desire to move away
summer months (2022 saw more than 10 mil- from balearización (favouring short-term
lion tourists visit Mallorca; the island’s to- profit over sustainable practice) and so new,
tal population is less than one million), and innovative models of tourism are growing
the subsequent drain on water and other re- in popularity and support.
sources, has prompted much debate local- Hotels such as Ecocirer in Sóller, run
ly about ways to mitigate this challenging by Barbara and Martin Lucas-Martí, have 183
20-essay-1-mao6.indd 183 1/24/2023 5:22:55 PM

embraced an ethos from the outset that ic, bio and zero waste (such as Bio Kalma
MALLORCA STORYBOOK
focuses on bringing together responsible in Palma), you’ll find it showcased here.

travel with a vegan, organic lifestyle. Be- Our accessible travel section (p171)
spoke travel experience organisations, such makes suggestions of ways to cut your
as españolita.net created and run by Car- carbon footprint when travelling, and by
men Ruiz de Huidobro, who has a passion supporting local enterprises and artisans
and respect for island life and traditions, on the island, by travelling longer or slow-
offer visitors a way to see a more authentic er, you can make a positive impact to sus-
side to island life, to visit and support arti- tainable tourism in the Balearics. And if
san-makers, to stay in eco-friendly settings you are more of an armchair traveller, or
and to connect with local people in a more if you would like to plan some slower trav-
SLOW & SUSTAINABLE TOURISM
meaningful way – slow tourism at its best. el trips, local TV station IB3 (which posts
Local businesses, such as olive oil producer programmes on YouTube, often with En-
Son Moragues near Valldemossa, encourage glish subtitles) has two long-running se-
visitors to take the time to learn about the ries which show the island’s natural beauty
landscape management practices in groves while taking you through its local history
full of centuries-old olive trees. In the north- – Passejades (walking trips through vari-
east of the island Natura Cavall takes in ous parts of the island with interesting lo-
horses in need of shelter and rehabilita- cal interviews along the route) and Bale-
tion, and runs an eco finca (rural estate) ars des de l’aire (fabulous aerial voyages
that is completely off-grid – forget having around different areas of the island, with
wi-fi here. Instead, you have the opportu- an in-depth background on the history,
nity to be in nature, to discover the beauty culture and landscape).
of the nearby natural park and coastline on Given its natural beauty and diversity
horseback and to stay in simple, authentic of landscape, it is perhaps not surprising
accommodation with like-minded souls. that Mallorca is a hub for international
Those choosing to travel in low season or filmmaking. Diana de la Cuadra, an expe-
shoulder season will find a quieter island, rienced local film producer and the cre-
but will perhaps enjoy richer experienc- ative mind responsible for the Mallorca
es. Without the struggles to find a parking Film Commission’s innovative Green Film
space or having to fight your way to an ‘In- Shoots programme, is working to create a
sta-friendly’ viewpoint, you can take things sustainable filmmaking environment on the
at a slower pace and really enjoy the rhythm island through a mix of education and train-
of island living. There are plenty of eco-ac- ing, best-practice recognition and grants
commodation options: spartan cells at hill- to support eco-friendly film shooting prac-
top sanctuaries, unique campsites, simple tices, carbon footprint calculation and re-
mountain refuges for hikers exploring the investment in local projects and practical
many mountain trails, finca stays on work- action programmes such as the Film Food
ing farms, and hotels focused on responsible Forest to create a circular film economy.
tourism. The same creativity and range can The Green Shoots programme is encour-
be found amongst the island’s restaurants. aging filmmakers shooting in Mallorca to
Places such as Andana (Palma), Re:Organic make environmentally friendly choices in
(Sóller), Ziva (Palma), Botanic (Palma) and their film productions, and is demonstrating
Béns d’Avall (near Deià) lead the way in 0km leadership within Europe and further afield.
or organic plant-based produce. ‘Mallorca is at the heart of the Mediterra-
Initiatives such as mallorcalma.com, nean, well connected and outward-looking,
run by slow-living advocates Mira and yet with a singular identity – initiatives like
Lily, bring together some of the amazing this place us at the forefront of sustainable
slow-living and sustainable tourism organ- thinking and create a huge opportunity to
isations that offer services in Mallorca. If change our sector and our industry,’ says
you’re looking to connect to local environ- de la Cuadra, focused on protecting both
mental organisations such as Amics de la the island’s environment and its filmmak-
Terra, or enjoy la buena vida by staying in ing present and future.
a soulful artist’s house such as Casa Balan- Truly indeed, Mallorca is a paradise
184 dra, or find out where to shop for organ- worth protecting.
20-essay-1-mao6.indd 184 1/24/2023 5:22:55 PM

MALLORCA STORYBOOK
THE CREATIVE
THE CREATIVE ISLAND

ISLAND
Come for the sunshine and glorious beaches, stay
for the culture. Mallorca offers a fantastic literary and
artistic scene, along with film festivals, theatre, opera
and a wide offering of live music.
ARGENTINIAN WRITER JOSE Luis Borges Since the 1950s and an opening up to
declared Mallorca is happiness, and in- tourism, the island became associated with
deed many other writers, artists, filmmak- a certain allure and glamour. The famous
ers and creatives seem to agree with him. and beautiful people of the world of cine-
The island has long been a hub for creative ma gathered at the iconic Hotel Formentor,
souls, sitting as it does at the heart of the a splendid hotel set on the edge of a gor-
Mediterranean. geous pine-forested headland blessed with
Artists flock here for its light and the sheltered sandy coves (currently undergo-
inspiration of its natural landscape, and ing significant renovation by the Four Sea-
writers have long come in search of a qui- sons hotel group). It was so remote, early
et corner from which to work undisturbed. guests had to be taken by boat from the bay
Long-time Deià resident, poet and novelist of Pollença until a curving, hairpin-bend
Robert Graves, loved the island tranquil- road could eventually be cut into the moun-
lity for his writing, saying the Majorcan tainside of the Formentor peninsula. The
countryside was admirable for those whose Hotel Formentor brought together well-
minds teemed with ideas. It often seems known writers in regular literary events
it was only author George Sand, Frédéric – Camilo José Cela, Rubén Dario, Borges
Chopin’s lover, who, staying in Valldem- and Graves all attended. Hotel guests in-
ossa in the Real Cartuja one rather damp cluded well-known figures such as Char-
winter season, found the island not quite lie Chaplin, Ava Gardner, Audrey Hepburn,
to her liking and wrote as much in her ac- Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Gary Coo-
count A Winter in Mallorca. For others, it per, along with politicians (including avid
is much more of a successful love affair. watercolourist Winston Churchill) and fa-
Barcelona-born artist and writer Santia- mous writers such as F Scott Fitzgerald.
go Rusiñol was drawn to the calm land- The same connection to the interna-
scapes, the silent valleys and the ancient tional world of creativity and filmmak-
brooding quality of the mountain routes of ing continues today. Mallorca has doubled
as he called it, la meravellosa illa (the mar- for Mauritius in Me Before You, and fea-
vellous island). He would regularly write in tured in movies such as Cloud Atlas. Its
publications such as La Almudaina or La rugged, handsome landscapes and coast-
Vanguardia of his love for Mallorca, l’illa line have starred in The Night Manager,
de la calma (the calm island). White Lines, The Crown and The Mallorca 185
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MALLORCA STORYBOOK
186
21-essay-2-mao6.indd 186 1/24/2023 5:26:01 PM

Files. The island is surprisingly well served in the north featured in Agatha Christie’s
MALLORCA STORYBOOK
with film studios, filmmaking equipment novel Pollença Bay, inspired by a stay at
and expertise. Hotel llla d’Or.
Sandra Lipski, filmmaker, producer and Based in Binissalem, Mallorca Literar-
actress (who grew up on Mallorca and ia is a fantastic organisation connecting
now divides her time between the island visitors and locals to the literary history
and LA), is founder of the long-r unning of the island with guided walks and vis-
and high-profile Evolution Film Festival its to places such as the literary museum,
(evolutionfilmfestival.com; see p53). It is Casa Llorenç Villalonga and the Museu de
the island’s largest and most internation- la Paraula in Sant Joan, and events cele-
al film festival, which has brought togeth- brating the Mallorquin oral tradition of the
THE CREATIVE ISLAND

er Hollywood figures, breakthrough di- glosa, a kind of poetic spoken-word battle.
rectors and screenwriters, and local film The island is also rich in artists. Inland
talent for more than 10 years. Each year she villages hide artists studios for painting,
takes the finalist filmmakers on a tour of sculpting or ceramics. Palma and the larg-
the island’s film locations and film resourc- er island towns are filled with art galler-
es (including a large, fully equipped film ies and collections include artists such as
studio at Bit Park on the outskirts of Pal- local talent Miquel Barceló, and famous
ma) and says it’s always lovely to see how figures influenced by the island light – in-
surprised and enthused filmmaking guests cluding Miró and Picasso. Walk the Old
become on discovering the quality of set- Town streets of Palma and you’ll discover
up in Mallorca. Over the years Lipski has dozens of art galleries selling work from
brought Oscar-winning actors and direc- artists local to or residing on the island.
tors to the island, and well-known figures Each September sees Nit de l’Art, a fan-
including Danny DeVito, Mads Mikkelsen tastic initiative opening up gallery spac-
and Ana de Armas, but has equally brought es for free to the public through the night,
the best of Balearic talent to LA with annu- alongside a vibrant events programme in
al short film showcases. Local filmmaking locations such as Rialto Living (a stylish
talent is much on display – both in popu- concept store, art gallery and occasional
lar TV series such as Pep or Mòpies, or in event space in central Palma), Casa Soller-
the work of filmmakers such as renowned ic, Pelaires Centre Cultural Contempora-
Spanish film director, screenwriter and ac- ni, and the many art galleries off Passeig
tor Agustí Villaronga. del Born and along Carrer de Sant Feliu.
Back in the world of books, El Bazar del Each year inland town Manacor holds
Libro (p55) is an iconic gem in Palma’s a vibrant theatre festival, and year-round
world of bookshops, drawing tourists and Palma sees theatre, dance and music events
locals alike. Palma is rich in bookshops – at venues such as the Teatro Principal or
names include Biblioteca de Babel, Libreria the Auditòrium on the Paseo Marítimo. Te-
Drac Màgic, Come In Bookshop, La Salina, atro del Mar and Teatro Mar i Terra run
Rata Corner, La Casa del Libro, Fine Books dynamic programmes of theatre during
and Literanta. The bookshops also serve the year too, and each year in September
as creative hubs; places where readers and sees an industry-oriented showcase of Mal-
writers can meet, and cultural events, read- lorca’s creative talent in Fira B! It is per-
ings and book launches are held. Its library haps noteworthy that the local government
spaces too play an important cultural role chose recently to support the island’s young
– evenings of philosophy, language lessons people with a bono cultural, a personal
or book clubs are a common occurrence. €400 youth culture voucher to encourage
Many well-known authors were inspired cultural engagement. So, seek beyond the
by Mallorca, including Darío, Anaïs Nin, beaches and the resorts on the coast, and
DH Lawrence and Jules Verne. Pollença you will discover an island rich in culture.
Frédéric Chopin’s home, Real Cartuja (p84)

VIVOOO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
187
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INDEX
INDEX
Andratx 91‑5, 92‑3 Bellver Castle 46, 49, Capocorb Vell 152‑3, 153
A
A‑C
accommodation 95 57, 180 travel within 152

food 94 bicycle travel, see cycling car travel 161
accessible travel 171
hiking 94‑5 Biniaraix 79 scenic drives 87‑8
accommodation 163, see
itineraries 20 Binissalem 120 Carnaval 76
also individual locations
travel within 91 itineraries 24 Carrer de Monti‑Sion 179
active adventures
architecture birdwatching 8, Castillo de San Carlos 52
Santanyí 149
Palma 52, 54 Illa de Cabrera 156 castles & palaces 121‑2
activities 36‑9, 60, 78, 82,
Sóller 78 Llevant Natural Park 137 Bellver Castle 46, 49,
109, 136, 149, 38‑9, see
Artà 134‑7, 135 Northern Mallorca 112, 113 57, 180
also individual activities
accommodation 135 Parc Natural de Castell d’Alaró 121
birdwatching 8, 112, 113,
history 178 S’Albufera 113 Castillo de Cabrera 156
137, 156
itineraries 22 boat travel 46 Palau de l’Almudaina 48
cycling 70‑1
travel within 134 Deià 88‑9 Catedral de la Luz, see
diving 137, 149
art galleries 17 Sa Foradada 88‑9 La Seu
horse riding 134
artisan makers 86 books 31, 53, 54‑5, see caves 137
itineraries 26‑7, 27
arts 16‑17, 185‑7 also individual authors Cova Blava 156
kayaking 102, 104, 137, 141
Santanyí 148 festivals 55 Cova des Coloms 152‑3
kiteboarding 102
ATMs 162 bookshops 55 Coves de Campanet 123
kitesurfing 104
Auditòrium 53 Borges, Jose Luis 185 Coves de Génova 47, 71
Pilates 60
Botanic Gardens of Coves del Drac 141
sailing 71, 109
Sóller 83 Coves dels Hams 141
scuba diving 102 B Bunyola 80 Santanyí 148‑9
snorkelling 137, 141
Badia de Palma 42‑71, 66‑7 bus travel 161 CCA Andratx Art Centre 91
surfing 109
drinking & nightlife 69 Central Palma 48‑59, 50-1
swimming 65, 110, 165
food 69 accommodation 54
tai chi 61 C drinking & nightlife 56
watersports 102, 104 inineraries 46‑7
travel within 44‑5, 44‑5 food 55, 56‑7
wellness 60, 61 Caimari 123
Banyalbufar 87‑8 Old Town 52‑3
yoga 60, 61 CaixaForum 53
itineraries 20 children, travel 14, 57‑8, 164
adventure parks 71 Cala Llamp 91
baths 48, 54 accommodation 57
Aqualand 65 calas 12‑13, see
beach clubs 69 activities 37, 164
Jungle Parc 71 also beaches, coves
beaches 12‑13, 153, see Chopin Classical Music
Kathmandu Theme Park 71 Artà 137
also calas, coves Festival 84
Western Water Park Cala Gii 110
Artà 137 Chopin, Frédéric 73,
airport 160 Cala Llombards 148
Badia de Palma 69, 70 84, 185
Alaró 121‑2 Cala Mesquida 137
Cap des Pinar 110 churches & cathedrals
Alcúdia 107‑10, 108 Cala Mitjana 137
Parc Nacional de Carrer de Monti‑Sion 179
accommodation 108 Cala Pi 153
L’Arxipèlag de Cabrera Església de la Mare de
activities 109 Cala Torta 137
156 Déu dels Àngels 102
food 110 Santanyí 148‑9
Platja de la Colònia de Iglesia de Sant Bartomeu
history 180 southwest, the 91, 94
Sant Pere 112 138
itineraries 26 Campanet 123
Platja des Coll Baix 110 La Seu 49, 54
travel within 107 camping 163
Platja des Trenc 148, Plaça Major 102
Can Forteza Rey 54 Sant Bartomeu 78
149, 181 Ca’n Pastilla 65
Platje de Mago 91 Sant Domingo Cloister
Canallún 88 102
Platje Formentor 104 Cap de Formentor 104, 105
Playa del Muro 111 city walls
Cap des Pinar 110 Alcúdia 107, 182
Map Pages 000 Portals Nous 71 Capdepera 138‑9, 139
Portocolom 141 Capdepera 138
accommodation 139, 141 Classical Music Festival 77
Santanyí 148 food 141
Southern Mallorca 153 climate 28‑9
itineraries 22 coffee 166
188 southwest, the 91, 94 travel within 138
22-index-mao6.indd 188 1/23/2023 5:05:04 PM

Colònia de Sant Pere 112 Entreforc 112 Verge del Carme 133 hot‑air ballooning 127
accommodation 113 Ermita Sant Honorat 125 film 31, 53, 105 Hotel Formentor 104,
Convent de Nostra Es Firó 29, 77 fincas 11, 163 181, 185
Senyora de la Soledat 120 Es Molinar 68 Fira 107
Costitx 123 Esporles 87 Fira Dolç 33, 87
INDEX
costs 161-3 Estellencs 87 Fira i Mercat Medieval 132 I
courses events, see festivals & food 15, 32‑5, 56‑7, 166‑7
cooking 15 events cheese 86 ice cream 56, 110
diving 102 cooking courses 15 Illa de Cabrera 156‑7, 157
sailing 59 festivals & events 33, 87 history 181
Cova des Coloms 152‑3 F gluten free 60 Illetes 71
coves 12‑13, see healthy eating 60 Inca 24, 119
family travel 14, 57‑8, 164 Interior, the 115‑27
C‑L
also beaches, calas honey 86
Alcúdia 109 accommodation 57 ice cream 56, 110 itineraries 118‑19
Cala Llamp 91 activities 37, 164 language 174 travel within 116‑17,
Cala Portals Vells 91 ferry travel 161 markets 58 116‑17
Caló de sa Nostra Festa des Vermar 29, 33, olive oil 85‑6 Interior Towns 123‑4, 124
Dama 91 35, 119, 123 vegan 33, 60 accommodation 124
Cap de Fomentor 104 Festes de la Patrona 29 vegetarian 33, 60 travel within 123
Es Faralló 109 festivals & events 10, 29 Fornalutx 79‑80 internet access 160
Illa d’Alcanada 109 Carnaval 76 Fundación Juan March 53 itineraries 20‑7, see
Playa de S’Illot 109 Chopin Classical Music Fundació Miró Mallorca 53 also individual locations
southwest, the 91, 94 Festival 77, 84 Badia de Palma 46‑7
Coves de Génova 47, 71 Classical Music Festival Eastern Mallorca 132‑3
Coves del Drac 141 77 G Interior, the 118‑19
Coves dels Hams 141 Copa del Rey Regatta 59 Northern Mallorca 100-1
COVID 160 Deià International Music gardens, see parks & Palma 46‑7
credit cards 162 Festival 77 gardens Southern Mallorca 146‑7
culture 53‑4 Dia de Virgen del Carmen Gaudí, Antoni 125 Western Mallorca 76‑7
cycling 36, 70‑1 29 gay travellers 55, 170
Estellencs 87 Ella International Lesbian Golden Valley 78
Festival 170 accommodation 79‑80 J
Mallorca 312 76
Monestir de Lluc 82 Es Firó 29, 77 food 80
Festa del Cavall 147 Graves, Robert 88, 185 Jardines de Marivent 58
Serra de Tramuntana Jardins d’Alfàbia 82
89‑90 Festa des Vermar 29, 33, guesthouses 163
35, 119, 123 José Luis Ferrer 122
Festes de la Patrona 29
D Festes de Sant Antoni 118 H
K
Festes de Sant Salvador
Deià 88 133 health 165
COVID 160 kayaking 65, 102, 104,
accommodation 89 Festival de Pollença 102 137, 141
food 89 Fira 107 highlights 8‑17
hiking 8, 37 kiteboarding 102
itineraries 21 Fira de la Pagesia 146 kitesurfing 104
Dia de Virgen del Carmen Fira de la Taronja 33 Alaró 120
29 Fira de s’Oliva 33 Andratx 94‑5
disability, travellers Fira Dolç 33, 87 Artà 136 L
with 171 Fira i Mercat Medieval Camí de S’Arxiduc 95
diving 137, 149 132 Camí des Correu 95 La Beata 84, 123, 180
drinking 166‑7, see La Beata Fiestas 84, La Trapa 94‑5 La Reserva Park 58
also wineries 123, 180 Llevant Natural Park La Seu 49, 54
coffee 166 La Fira de l’Esclata- 136‑7 language 31, 174‑5
language 174 sang 33 Mondragó Natural lesbian travellers 55, 170
wine 33, 119, 120 LGBTIQ+ 170 Park 154 LGBTIQ+ travellers 55,
driving, see car travel Mallorca 312 76 Monestir de Lluc 82 170
Nit de Sant Joan 29, 54 Petra 126 lighthouses
Open House 54 Serra de Tramuntana Cap de Formentor 104
E Palma International Boat 89‑90, 94‑5, 122 Far de Cap Gros 87
Show 59 Valldemossa 86, 95 Faro de Capdepera 138
Eastern Mallorca 128‑41 Palma Pride Week 170 Western Mallorca 90 N’Ensiola lighthouse
itineraries 132‑3 Sa Rua 118 hill villages 79‑80 156
travel within 130‑1, 130‑1 Sant Miquel 147 history 178‑9 Sa Dragonera 95
electricity 173 Santa Maria del Mar 147 horse riding Lipski, Sandra 187
Els Banys Àrabs 48, 54 Santanyí Autumn Fair 147 Artà 134 Llevant Natural Park 136‑7
emergencies 173 Semana Santa 29, 132 Esporles 86 accommodation 136
language 174 Serra de Tramuntana 90 Llull, Ramon 125 189
22-index-mao6.indd 189 1/23/2023 5:05:04 PM

CCA Andratx Art Portixol 68
M Centre 91 P Portocolom 141
Fundación Cultural Coll public holidays 173
Manacor 22, 123 Palau de l’Almudaina 48
Bardolet 85 Pueblo Español 47, 52
markets 172 Palma 42‑71, see
Fundación Juan March 53 Puig de Maria 105
INDEX
Mercat 1930 58 also individual

Fundació Miró Mallorca Puig de Randa 125‑7,
Mercat de l’Olivar 56, 58 neighbourhoods
53 179‑80, 126
Mercat de Santa Catalina Badia de Palma 65‑71
Museu d’Art travel within 125
58, 61 Central Palma 48‑59,
Contemporani de
Palma 56, 58, 61 50-1
Valldemossa 84
Petra 126
Museu de Mallorca 52
itineraries 27, 46‑7, 46‑7 R
Sineu 126-7 Santa Catalina 60‑4,
Museu d’Historia de la
measures 173 62-3 radio 31
M‑S
Ciutat 52
Mercat de l’Olivar 56, 58 travel within Palma 44‑5, Raixa 82
Museu Fra Juníper
Mercat de Santa Catalina 44‑5 Ramon Llull 179‑80
Serra 126
58, 61 Palma Aquarium 46, 57, 65 regattas 59
Museu Martí Vicenç 102
monasteries, see also Parc Nacional de responsible travel 168‑9
Museu Regional D’Artà
sanctuaries L’Arxipèlag de Cabrera rock pools 137
135
Ermita Sant Honorat 156‑7, 157 ruins
Pol·lèntia Museum 108
125 travel within 156‑7 Pol·lèntia 107‑8
Pueblo Español 47, 52
La Trapa 94-5 Parc Natural de S’Albufera Roman 107‑8
Sóller 78
Monestir de Lluc 82, 180 112 Ses Païsses 135‑6
music 31, 53
Real Cartuja 84 parks & gardens 57‑8, see Rusiñol, Santiago 185
Real Cartuja 84
Santuari de la Mare de also nature reserves
Déu des Puig 105 Botanic Gardens of
Santuari de Sant N Sóller 83 S
Salvador 134 Jardí del Bisbe 58
Mondragó Natural Park nature reserves, see also Jardines de Marivent 58 Sa Dragonera 95
154‑5, 155 parks & gardens Jardins d’Alfàbia 82 safe travel 165
accommodation 155 Parc Nacional de La Reserva Park 58 sailing 37, 58, 59, 69, 71, 104,
travel within 154 L’Arxipèlag de Cabrera Llevant Natural Park 109, 141
Monestir de Lluc 82, 180 156‑7 136‑7 courses 59
money 162 Sa Dragonera 95 Mondragó Natural Park festivals & events 58, 59
Montuïri 123 navigation 154‑5, 155 sanctuaries 106, 125‑6, see
mountain climbing 89‑90 Badia de Palma 44-5, Parc Nacional de also monasteries
mountain villages 121‑2 44-5 L’Arxipèlag de Cabrera Santuari de Gracià 125
mountains Eastern Mallorca 130‑1, 156‑7, 157 Santuari de la Mare de
Puig de Ferrutx 136 130-1 Parc Natural de Déu des Puig 105‑6
Puig de Maria 105 Interior, the 116‑17, 116‑17 S’Albufera 112 Santuari de Nostra
Puig de Randa 125‑7, Palma 44-5, 44-5 Raixa 82 Senyora de Cura 125
179‑80, 126 Northern Mallorca S’Hort del Rei 47, 52, 58 Santuari de Sant
Serra de Tramuntana 99‑100, 99‑100 Sóller 82 Salvador 134
79‑80, 89‑90, 94‑5 Southern Mallorca 144-5, Petra 125‑7, 126 Sand, George 73, 84, 185
Museu de Mallorca 52 144‑5 food 127 Santa Catalina 60‑4, 62-3
Museu d’Historia de la Western Mallorca 74‑5, travel within 125 accommodation 64
Ciutat 52 74‑5 Pilates 60 food 61
museums & galleries nightlife 166‑7 pirates 88 Santa Catalina Tomás 180
52, 53 Nit de Sant Joan 29 planning Santa Eugènia 25
Andratx 91 Northern Mallorca 96‑113 clothes 30 Santa Margalida 123
Casa de Cultura Ses Alcúdia 107‑10 etiquette 30 Santa María del Camí 120
Cases Noves 148 intineraries 100‑1 highlights 8‑17 itineraries 24
Casa‑Museu Llorenç Pollença 102‑6 itineraries 20‑7 Santanyí 148‑51, 150‑1
Villalonga 120 travel within 99‑100, Mallorca basics 30‑1 accommodation 149
Castillo de San Carlos 99‑100 vineyards 35 itineraries 27
52 weather 28‑9 travel within 148
Platja des Trenc 148, 149 Santuari de la Mare de Déu
O podcasts 31 des Puig 105‑6
Pollença 102‑6, 103 Santuari de Nostra Senyora
olive oil 85‑6 accommodation 104 de Cura 125
opening hours 173 food 105 Santuari de Sant Salvador
Map Pages 000 Orient 122 itineraries 21, 26 134
outdoor activities 8‑9, travel within 102 S’Arenal 65
36‑9, 38-9 Pol·lèntia 107‑8, 178‑9 scenic drives 87‑8
itineraries 26‑7, 27 Pol·lèntia Museum 108 scuba diving 102, 104
190 with kids 14 Port de Pollença 104 Semana Santa 29
22-index-mao6.indd 190 1/23/2023 5:05:04 PM

Serra de Tramuntana southwest, the 91‑5, 92‑3 travel within Mallorca 161, West Coast, the 84‑90, 85
79‑80, 89‑90, 94‑5 accommodation 95 see also navigation travel within 84
food 90 travel within 91 tv shows 31 Western Mallorca 73‑95
hiking 122 surfing 65, 109 itineraries 20‑1, 76‑7, 21
Serra, Juniper 126 sustainable tourism 182‑4 Sóller 78‑80, 79
V
INDEX
Ses Païsses 135‑6, 178 swimming, see also travel seasons 76‑7
Ses Salines 149 beaches travel within 74‑5, 74‑5
S’Hort del Rei 47, 52, 58 Alcúdia 110 Valldemossa 84‑90, 85 Valldemossa 84‑90, 85
Sineu 125‑7, 126 Badia de Palma 65 accommodation 85 West Coast, the 84‑90,
food 127 safety 165 festivals & events 84 85
travel within 125 synagogues 179 food 88 wetlands
slow tourism 182‑4 itineraries 20 Parc Natural de
smoking 173 travel within 84 S’Albufera 112
S‑Y
snorkelling 137, 141 T vegan travellers 33, 60 wildlife watching 112
Sóller 29, 78‑80, 79 vegetarian travellers 33, 60 windsurfing 104
accommodation 79‑80 Talayotic sites 126, 152 viewpoints wine
activities 78, 82 Capocorb Vell 152‑3 Andratx 95 festivals & events 29,
food 80 Ses Païsses 135‑6, 178 Southwest, the 95 33, 119
gardens 82-3 theatre 53 West Coast, the 87 tours 120
history 181 tipping 162 villages 24‑5 Wine Country 120‑2, 121
itineraries 21 Torre des Verger 87‑8 country 123 accommodation 122
Monestir de Lluc 82, 180 Torrent de Pareis 112 vineyards, see wineries food 121
travel within 78 tours travel within 120
Sóller Railway station 78 boat 46, 88‑9 wineries 35, 120, 122
Cova des Coloms 152 W
solo travel 165 Bodegas Biniagual 122
Son Serra de Marina 112 olive oil 85‑6 Bodegas Macià Batle 120
wine 120 walking 90
itineraries 23, 26 watchtowers 88 Can Ramis 122
Southern Mallorca 143‑57 train travel 161 Celler Tianna Negre 122
Tramuntana, see Serra de Albercutx Watchtower
Capocorb Vell 152-3, 153 104 itineraries 24‑5, 25
Cova des Coloms 152-3 Tramuntana José Luis Ferrer 122
travel seasons 28‑9 history 180‑1
itineraries 146‑7 Torre d’Aubarca 137 Y Ramanyà 122
Mondragó Natural Park Eastern Mallorca 132-3
Interior, the 118-19 Torre des Verger 87‑8
154‑5, 155 water 173
Parc Nacional de Northern Mallorca 100-1
watersports 102, 104
Y
L’Arxipèlag de Cabrera Southern Mallorca 146-7
Western Mallorca 76‑7 weather 28‑9 yachting 58, 59, see
156‑7, 157 weights 173
Santanyí 148-51, 150-1 travel to/from Mallorca also sailing
160 wellness 60 yoga 60, 61
travel within 144‑5, 144‑5
191
22-index-mao6.indd 191 1/23/2023 5:05:04 PM

“La Trapa’s (p94)
winding path through
a nature reserve takes
you high up the edge of
“Visit incredible the coast until reaching
viewpoints like the the monastery with its
Cap de Ses Salines incredible views down
lighthouse on Mallorca’s over Sa Dragonera
southernmost tip, or Es island.”
Pontàs (p143; pictured
above), a massive
natural rock arch.”
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THIS BOOK
RIGHT: JAN NEDBAL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
LEFT: DAVE KNIBBS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Design Development Production Coordinating Editor Dankel, Kate Mathews,

Marc Backwell Development Sasha Drew Mani Ramaswamy
Content Development Sandie Kestell, Fergal Product Editor Cover Researcher
Mark Jones, Sandie Condon Kathryn Rowan Fergal Condon
Kestell, Anne Mason, Series Development Book Designer Thanks Ronan
Joana Taborda Leadership Nicolas D’Hoedt Abayawickrema,
Cartography Darren O’Connell, Piers Gwen Cotter, Esteban
Pickard, Chris Zeiher Cartographer
Development Hunor Csutoros Fernandez, Clare Healy,
Katerina Pavkova Commissioning Editor Karen Henderson,
Daniel Bolger Assisting Editors Sandie Kestell
Janet Austin, Melanie
Paper in this book is certified Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited

against the Forest Stewardship CRN 554153
Council™ standards. FSC™ 6th edition – June 2023
promotes environmentally ISBN 978 1 83869 187 5
responsible, socially beneficial and ©Lonely Planet 2023 Photographs © as indicated 2023
economically viable management 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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01-contents-mao6.indd 1 1/27/2023 2:58:59 PM

The Guide Southern Mallorca................. 143 Family Travel.................................. 164

Platja de Cala Gat,

01-contents-mao6.indd 2 1/27/2023 2:59:00 PM

Playa del Muro (p111)

Caló des Moro (p148)

02-welcome-to-mao6.indd 4 1/23/2023 3:15:02 PM

02-welcome-to-mao6.indd 5 1/23/2023 3:15:03 PM

Ride the vintage Cala S

art – Picasso, Miró (p120) Sa M

from the crowds Ē Valldemossa Ù

del Camí Sencelles Sineu

02-welcome-to-mao6.indd 6 1/23/2023 3:15:04 PM

Sant Pere Betlem

02-welcome-to-mao6.indd 7 1/23/2023 3:15:05 PM

PROSLGN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR LEFT: CARLOS L VIVES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LEFT: FRANK LAMBERT/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Home to the Unesco-recognised Serra de

Best of Birdwatching Responsible Hiking

Come in the springtime for Remember to take your rubbish

Be careful near areas marked Coto Privado de Caza.

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 8 1/23/2023 3:43:07 PM

Hike some of the 140km GR221

Cycle the snaking route down

In high season, head by ferry to

Pack your binoculars and visit

Explore Llevant Natural

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 9 1/23/2023 3:43:08 PM

Festival revellers in Sineu (p126)

Mallorcans wholeheartedly embrace their Es Firó 2 sees a re-

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 10 1/23/2023 3:43:08 PM

BEST FINCA STAY

Monnaber Nou Eco

Son Mas 2 is a sprawling,

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 11 1/23/2023 3:43:09 PM

SIMON DANNHAUER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR LEFT: DANISKIM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LEFT: SIMON DUX MEDIA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

With almost as many bays and calas as days in the

Water Sports Enthusiasts Off the Beaten Track

Try windsurfing, kitesurfing, diving, Explore in search of quiet coves and

Keep Your Cool

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 12 1/23/2023 3:43:09 PM

Follow in the sandy footsteps

Snorkel in Cala Banyalbufar 2

Discover kilometres of wild

Spend the day at one of the

Sign the kids up for surf

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 13 1/23/2023 3:43:10 PM

BEST FAMILY FUN

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 14 1/23/2023 3:43:11 PM

across the island.

BEST FINE DINING

Dins Santi Taura 2 is

Béns d’Avall 5 near

03-our-picks-mao6.indd 15 1/23/2023 3:43:11 PM

JOAN_BAUTISTA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, FAR LEFT: NAEBLYS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©, LEFT: ERNEST ROSE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Mallorca has long drawn artists to its shores, and

Visit Artist Studios Day as an Artist

Organise studio visits to see work Have a go at pottery, ceramics,