Stitch

Most Common Stitch Types in ASTM D-6193 and

ISO 4915:1991 Standards
This quick reference guide is to help communication be-
tween designers, production managers and sewing con-
tractors. The guide is freely distributed.
Images courtecy of www.garmento.org, www.wikipedia.org, www.
merrow.com
First Edition October 17, 2007
Second Editon June 3, 2008

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ASTM D-6193 ISO
10 ISO# 101 Chainstitch
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through
the material and interlooping with itself on the
Sewingcontract.com
underside of the seam.

103 ISO# 103 Blindstitch

Stitch is formed with one needle thread which
interloops with itself on the top surface of the ma-
terial. The thread passes through the top ply and
horizontally through portions of the bottom ply.
104 Blindstitch
One thread Blinstitch for hemming, See page 4

301 ISO# 301 Lockstitch

Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through
the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread
Threads are meeting in the center of the seam.
Stitch appear the same on the top as well as the
bottom.

ISO# 301 Twin Needle Lockstitch

Same s 301 except that two rows of stitch are
formed. Common needle spacing is 1/4" (6mm)
however, the machines are available from 3/16"
up to 1"(6-25mm)

304 ISO# 304 Zig Zag

Lockstitch is formed with a needle and bobbin
thread forming a symmetrical zig zag pattern.
stitch is also used in bartacking and lockstitch
buttonsewing and buttonholing

401 ISO# 401 -Chainstitch

Stitch formed by 1 needle thread and being
interlooped with 1 looper thread that is set on the
underside of the seam.

ISO# 401 Twin Needle Chainstitch

Stitch formed by 2 needle threads being inter-
looped with 2 looper threads, forming 2 indepen-
dent rows of stitch

40 ISO# 406 Bottom

Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing
through the material and interlooping with 1 looper
thread with the stitch set on the underside of the
seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle
threads, providing seam coverage on the bottom
side.

ISO# 407 Bottom Coverstitch

407 Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing
through the material and interlacing with 1 looper
thread with the stitch set on the underside of the
seam. Looper thread is interlooped between
needle threads, providing seam coverage on
bottom side only
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00
ASTM D-6193

104 Blindstitch
One thread Blinstitch for hemming,

202 Handstitch
Chainstitch provides stretchability for knits

205 Handstitch
One Thread True Handstitch for Topstitching
ASTM D-6193
Stitches
Not shown in
This quide

Stitch Class &

Thread Count
306 Blindstitch
Two Thread blindstitch
102 One Thread
105 One Thread
201 Two Thread
203 One Thread
204 One Thread
302 Three Thread
315 Three Step Zig-Zag 303 Four Thread
Lockstitch zig-zag with more stretch
305 Three Thread
307 Five Thread
308 Two Thread
309 Three Thread
310 Three Thread
311 Three
312 Three Thread
313 Two Thread
316 314 Two Thread
One Thread lockstitch using autoloading bobbin
402 Three Thread
403 Four Thread
404 Two Thread
405 Three Thread
407 Four Thread
501 One Thread
502 Overedgestitch 505 Three Thread
One needle overedge stitch used for serging 506 Four Thread
507 Four Thread
508 Three Thread
509 Three Thread
510 Two Thread
511 Two Thread
517 Five Thread
518 Four Thread
515 True Safetystitch 519 Six Thread
Chainstitch provides stretchability for knits 520 Eight Thread
521 Three Thread
522 Four Thread
601 Three Thread
603 Five Thread
604 Six
606 Nine Thread

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ASTM D-6193 ISO
503 ISO# 503 Overedge
Formed by 1 needle thread and 1 looper
thread producing a purl on the edge of the
seam. Use: serging or

504 ISO# 504 Overedge

Formed by 1 needle thread and 2 looper
threads producing a purl on the edge of the
seam. Use: overedge seaming and serging

505 ISO# 505 Overedge

Formed by 1 needle thread and 2 looper
threads forming a double purl on the edge of
the seam. Use: serging

512 ISO# 512 Overedge

Stitch formed with 2 needle threads and
2 looper threads with the looper threads
forming a purl on the edge of the seam
VIMY 512-right needle only enters the upper

ISO# 514 Overedge

514 Formed with 2 needle threads and 2 looper
threads with the looper threads forming a
purl on the edge of the seam. 514-both
needles enter the upper looper loop

ISO# 516 Safety Stitch

516 5-thread safety stitch. Combining a
needle chainstitch (401) and a 3-thread
sinuedge stic, 504) that are formed

602 ISO# 602 Coverstitch

Formed with 2-needle threads, a top cover
thread and a bottom looper thread

605 ISO# 605 Coverstitch

Formed with 3-needle threads, using a top
cover thread and a bottom looper thread.

607 ISO# 607 Coverstitch

Formed with 4-needle threads, a top cover
thread and a bottom looper thread

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ISO Stitch Terminology
Stitch Drawing ISO 4915 Common
Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application Requirement
Single Thread Chainstitch
101
Single Thread Chainstitch or
55E
* 304 Lockstitch is
101
Lockstitch Buttonsew, preferred when stitch
Buttonhole or Bartack security is a Must. or
304
Single Thread Blindstitch No stitch visible on 103
Bottom or Outside of Sewn
Product
Lockstitch - Most Common of Bobbin Thread on 301
All
Zig Zag Lockstitch
304
Looper Thread on Bottom
Chainstitch 401
Zig Zag Chainstitch Looper Thread on Bottom
404
AMERICAN & EFIRD, INC Page 1 of 1
Stitch Description
Basting Stitch for Specify SPI. Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the
Tailored Clothing; material and interlooping with itself on the underside
Bag Closing of the seam with the assistance of a spreader.
Buttone,or 1) Buttonsew - Knit Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is
specify stitches perplaced horizontally, with approximately 85-90 stitches
Bartack cycle (Ex. 8,16, 32)
2)BH - specify length
& width (1/2",
3) Bartack - specify
length & width of
tack.
Blindstitch
Specify
1) SPI 3 - 5 SPI
Stitch is formed with one needle thread that is
interlooped with itself on the top surface of the
Hemming,
Felling, Making 2) Non-skip or 2 to 1 material. The thread passes through the top ply and
Belt Loops horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without
completely penetrating it the full depth.
Topstitching, Specify SPI. Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the
Single Needle material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the
Stitching, Straight threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch
Stitching looks the same top & bottom.
Intimate Apparel, Specify Stitch is formed with a needle and a bobbin that are
Athletic wear, 1) SPI set in the center of the seam and form a symmetrical
Infantwear, 2) Throw or width zig-zag pattern. Also, used to identify bartacking
Exercisewear Zig-Zag (1/8", 3/16", lockstitch buttonsewing and buttonholing.
1/4")
Single Needle Specify SPI. Stitch formed by 1-needle thread passing through the
Chainstitch - material and interlooped with 1-looper thread and
Mainseams on pulled up to the underside of the
Woven
Zig-Zag Specify Stitch is formed with a needle and a looper that are
Chainstitch for 1) SPI set on the underside of the seam and form a
Infantwear and 2) Throw or width Zig- symmetrical zig-zag pattern.
Childrenswear: Zag (1/8", 3/16",
Binding, 1/4")
Topstitching,
ISO Stitch Terminology AMERICAN & EFIRD, INC Page 2 of 2

Stitch Drawing ISO 4915 Common

Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application
2 Needle Bottom Coverstitch
3 Needle Bottom Coverstitch
Requirements Stitch Description
Looper Thread on Hemming, Specify Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
406 Attaching, Elastic, 1) Needle spacing material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the
Binding (1/8", 3/16", 1/4*) stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
Coverseaming, 2) interlooped between needle threads providing seam
Making Belt coverage on the bottom side only.
Loops
Loober Thread on Bottom Attaching Elastic Specify
407 Stitch formed by 3-needle threads passing through the
to Men's & Boys 1) Needle spacing material and interlooping with 1-looper thread with the

86888
Knit Underwear (1/4") stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread
2) SPI is interlooped between needle threads providing seam
coverage on the bottom side only

2 Needle Chainstitch with Looper Thread on Bottom Attaching Pocket Stitch formed by 2-needle threads passing through the
Cover Thread
408 Facings to Jeans me siches sion the undersie of the seans op
& Chino Casual
Pants spreader thread is interlaced on the top side of the
seam between the two needle threads.

2 Thread Overedge Single "purl" on Edge Serging & Specify Stitch formed by 1-needle thread and 1-looper thread
503 Blindhemming 1) Width Bite (Ex. with purl on edge of seam for serging or
blindhemming ONLY.
000000000 wwwww 1/8", 3/16", 1/4*)
2) SPI.

3 Thread Overedge Most Common Overedge Single Specify Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
504 Overedg 1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a purl on
Stitch
Seaming 1/8", 3/16", 1/4") edge of the seam. For overedge seaming and serging
000000000010 2) SPI.

3 Thread Double "purl" on Edge 505 Serging with Specify Stitch formed with 1-needle thread and 2-looper
Double purl on 1) Width Bite (Ex. threads with the looper threads forming a double purl
Edge 1/8", 3/16", 1/4*) on the edge of the seam for serging ONLY.
2) SPI.

Mock Safety Stitch 2 Needle Seaming Stretch Specify SPI.

512 Knits,
Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper
threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
edge of the seam. 512 - right needle only enters the
upper looper loop. Stitch does NOT chain-off as well
as 514 Stitch
ISO Stitch Terminology AMERICAN & EFIRD, INC Page 3 of 3

Stitch Drawing ISO 4915 Common

Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application Requirements Stitch Description
2 Needle 4 Thread Overedge 2 Needle Overedge Seaming Stretch Specify SPI. Stitch formed with 2-needle threads and 2 looper
514 Knits, Wovens threads with the looper threads forming a purl on the
edge of the seam. 514 - both needles enter the upper
looper loop. Preferred over 512 Stitch because it
chains-off better.

4 Thread Safetystitch Safetystitch Specify Combination stitch consisting of a single-needle

515
(401+503) Seaming Wovens 1) Needle spacing & chainstitch (401) and a 2-thread Overedge stitch (503)
104444417444 & Knits bite - Ex.: 1/8"- that are formed simultaneously. Uses less thread than
1/8", 3/16"- 3/16'"' a 516 stitch; however, many manufacturers prefer a
3/16" - 1/4" 516 stitch.
2) SPI

5 Thread Safetystitch Safety Stitch Specify Combination stitch consisting of a single-needle

516 chainstitch (401) and a 3-thread Overedge stitch (504)
(401+504) Seaming Wovens 3) Needle spacing &
00000000000 & Knits bite - Ex.: 1/8"-
1/8"', 3/16"- 3/16'"'
that are formed simultaneously.

3/16" - 1/4"
4) SPI
Binding A Shirts,Specify Stitch formed with 2-needle threads, a top cover
2 Needle 4 Thread Coverstitch 602 Infants Clothing,1) Needle spacing thread and a bottom looper thread.
etc. (Ex: 1/8",
1/4")
2) SPI
Lap Seaming, Specify Stitch formed with 3-needle threads, a top cover
3 Needle 5 Thread Coverstitch 605 Coverseaming, 1) Needle spacing thread and a bottom looper thread.
Binding on Knits (Ex: 1/4")
2) SPI

Flat or Lap Specify SPI Stitch formed with 4-needle threads, a top cover
4 Needle 9 Thread Coverstitch Flatlock stitch 606 Seaming Knit thread, and four bottom looper threads that are
interlaced together. Generally, a 607 stitch
МИНАЙКАНИЙ
163333 preferred because machines are easier to maintain.

Flatseamer/Flatlock Flat or Lap Specify SPI Stitch formed with 4-needle threads, a top cover
4 Needle 6 Thread Coverstitch 607 Seaming Knit thread and a bottom looper thread. Preferred over 606
Underwear, stitch because machines are easier to maintain.
ALLELILI
1601S
Fleece, etc.