Professional Documents
Culture Documents
FIBRES-Textile Science
FIBRES-Textile Science
TEXTILE FIBERS
TEXTILE FIBERS
EXAMPLE:
BAST LEAF SEAD HAIR STAPLE FILAMENT ASBESTOS
ORGANIC IN-ORGANIC
EXAMPLE:
NATURAL POLYMER BASE SYNTHETIC PYLMER BASE GLASS,
METALLIC,
(REGENERATED CELLULOSE)
EXAMPLE:
CELLULOSE BASE PROTEIN BASE ALGINATE BASE
ACRYLIC,
EXAMPLE: EXAMPLE: EXAMPLE: MODACRYLIC,
NYLON,
RAYAN, AZLON RUBBER OLEFIN,
POLYESTER,
ACETATE,
SPANDEX,
TENCEL
ESSENTIAL PROPERTIES OF
TEXTILE FABRICS
Abrasion Resistance
->
->
Hydrophobic Fibers
Stain Removal
It is easier to remove stains from hydrophilic fibers because
water and detergent are absorbed in to the fiber
Wicking
Polyester & Nylon are hydrophobic but has good wicking when
micro-denier in size
Wicking is desirable for jogging & exercise clothes and active sports
wear.
Cover
“An ability to occupy yarns on area in fabric structure”
Thick fiber, one with a crimp will give the fabric better
cover than a thin straight fiber
Fabric that has good resiliency does not wrinkle easily and
therefore tends to retain its good appearance.
Sources:
Long stapled Cotton:
South American Pima, Egyptian Cotton, Sea
Island
Short staple Cotton:
India, Pakistan and other Asian countries
Aesthetic Properties and performance of Cotton
fabrics:
Basically, Cotton fabrics have poor luster due to its
natural colour. But it can be improved by:
►Using long stapled cotton fibres
►Mercerized and Ammonia treated fabrics have soft
and pleasant luster
►Weave; Cotton Sateen’s luster due to weave structure
Drape, luster, texture, hand etc are affected by type of
yarn, yarn count, fabric structure and finishes.
Feels cool, inelastic, soft and dry.
Poor resiliency: - Cotton fabrics wrinkle easily
Poor dimensional stability: - Shrink easily
No problem with pilling but Cotton fabrics have ‘lint’,
due to short fibres
Durability Properties and performance of
Cotton fabrics
End uses:
Furnishings:
Because of Versatility, Natural comfort, Ease of finishing and Dyeing
Towels, sheets, pillow cases, bed spreads, drapes, curtains,
upholstery, slip covers and wall coverings
FLAX General Features
Flax comes from the stem of the flax plant, and mainly
composed of cellulose.
The natural color of flax varies from light ivory to tan color.
Medium weight fiber and fiber length varies between 2” – 36”.
Linen fabrics are ‘lint’ free because no short fibers.
Under microscope it is shaped like bamboo.
Flax fibers are spun and twisted to form a yarn and woven
the finished fabric is called ‘Linen’
Flax
FLAX Properties and performance of Linen
fabrics
Positive Features:
Excellent Strength: Twice as long as Cotton; fabric wears evenly; 20%
stronger when wet condition;
Good hand and high natural luster;
More hydrophilic than Cotton, 12% moisture regain.
‘Good fabric for hot weather’
#1. Excellent moisture regain
#2. Absorb moisture quickly and dries quickly
Completely washable and dry cleanable; Highest safe ironing
temperature 234° C; No pilling and static problems; Adequate
dimensional stability
Negative Features:
Attacked by mildew and silver fish; Fair abrasion resistance and fair
elasticity “Not as durable as Cotton” and Poor resiliency
FLAX Uses:
Because of its high production cost and the fact
that it wrinkles easily linen is used only in limited
extend in apparels.
However, because linen fabrics are strong, light
weight. Drape well, feel cool, and resist soiling.
They are suited for higher quality fashion aspects
or professional wear, summer apparel and
household linen: bed, table and bath items
FLAX Uses:
FLAX Uses:
Silk
Silk
SILK General Features
SILK General Features
► Silk is a natural animal fibre composed of protein and
obtained from Silk cocoons.
► The raw Silk that comes from the cocoons consist of fibroin
(fibre) and sericin to hold filaments together
Drape: Light weight fibre excellent drape gives graceful appearance to garment
Resiliency: Silk ranks next to wool, wrinkles hangout fairly readily but not
as quickly as wool
Covering Power:
Poor, fibres are thin and more yarns required producing
cloth.
Elasticity:
Very elastic, 20% elongation at breaking point
Elastic recovery:
Poor recovery if stretched beyond 2% elongation
Dimensional Stability:
tends to shrink when laundered or dry cleaned
SILK Care and Maintenance
SILK Types of Mulberry Silk
Si. No Types Mutivoltin Bivoltine
e
:
1 Origin India China, Japan
2 Single Cocoon Weight 1.15 1.5
3 Average Length (mts) 350 1030
4 Filament Denier 3-4 2–3
5 Breaking length (mts) 200 900
6 Luster good excellent
7 Uniformity good excellent
SILK
Wool
WOOL General Features
Fibre fineness;
Staple length;
The amount of impurities contained in the fleece;
The scale structure; Natural colour;
The part of fleece from which it is derived.
The finer wool: - Thin, long, white and have definite crimp.
The coarser wool: - Rough scale structure, straight and may be
brown or black
Aesthetic Properties and performance of Wool fabrics
Luster:
Drape:
Resiliency:
Hand:
Pilling:
Durability Properties and performance of Wool
fabrics
Strength: Relatively weak fiber; Strong yarns can be produced due to long staple fibres
and natural crimp with the high friction provided by the scales on its surface.
Abrasion resistance: Good
Chemical effects:
Poor resistance to chlorine bleaches, damaged by oxidizing bleaches;
Highly resistant to organic solvents;
Good resistance to acids; Poor resistance to alkalies;
Good resistance to oil-borne stains; Poor resistance to water-borne stains.
Wool stretches well and has excellent elastic recovery => Wool yarns will
permit garments to give with the motion of the body.
Dimensional Stability:
Felting: Interlocking of fibres due to scales when subjected to wet
mechanical action. The result is “progressive shrinkage”
WOOL Care & Maintenance:
►
In apparel, wool is found in outer wear, for its warmth and
durability;
men’s and women’s suits for its wrinkle resistance, comport and
durability;
socks, for its abrasion resistance and ability to absorb moisture.
In home furnishings, wool provides resiliency, durability, hand,
and dye ability for floor coverings and carpets as well as
upholstery.
Wool and wool blends provide long life, excellent comfort
properties, excellent esthetics and formability behavior to formal
suits and bottom weights.
WOOL Types of wool products
Virgin wool
It is processed from unused fibres obtained from first clipping of fleece of
sheep.
Re-processed wool
Processed fibres, yarns or fabrics that have not been used by the consumers
but is broken down and converted in to fibre state to be made in to yarns
and fabrics again.
Merino Wool
A fine long-stapled and soft wool fibres from the ‘Marino sheep’ which is raised
in Australia and New Zealand
WOOL Types of wool products
Saxony Wool
A fine long-stapled and soft wool fabric made from sheep raised in
Saxony, Germany
Shetland Wool
A fine long-stapled and soft Wool fabric from the Shetland Island in
Scotland
Lambs Wool
Virgin Wool fibre clipping obtained from 7 to 8 months old lambs
Wool in apparels
Wool in Home
Furnishing
Specialty wool fibres-Angora
‣M
‣
ohair is the hair fiber of the Angora goat.
Mohair fibers have a circular cross section. Scales on the surface are scarcely
visible. There are some air ducts between the cells that give mohair its lightness
‣and fluffiness.
Mohair is one of the most resilient fibers and has no crimp, giving it a silk like
‣‣
luster and a smoother surface that is more resistant than wool.
mohair fibers are smoother and more lustrous than wool fibers.
‣‣
Mohair is very strong and has good affinity for dye.
Mohair is less expensive than most of the other specialty wools.
Mohair’s chemical properties are the same as those of wool. Mohair makes a
better novelty loop yarn than wool or other specialty hair fibers.
Specialty wool fibres-Mohair
Chemical Effects:
Easily damaged by strong acids. Hot dilute mineral acids or
cold concentrated acids damage the fabric.
Good resistance to alkalies. Concentrated alkalies will
cause swelling and reduce strength; Good resistance to
organic solvents; Both oxidizing / reducing bleaches used in
spot and stain removal.
VISCOSE RAYON Durability Performance
Safety Performance:
Burns rapidly and it is flammable
To produce High Wet Strength Rayon, the fibre producer
modifies the regular Viscose Rayon procedure;
Higher wet / dry strength than regular Rayon; 50% strong when
dry; 100% strong when wet;
Absorbs less water than regular rayon and swell less;
Can be given shrinkage treatment to make fabric dimensionally
stable;
Crease resistant finishes can be applied without loss of
strength;
VISCOSE RAYON End uses
Viscose rayon is widely used in apparel, home
furnishings and automobile tires.
–
Care / Maintenance:
’
’
.
POLYESTER-End uses
Fibre fill applications:
Hollow cross section fibres provides high resiliency and loft,
durability, comfort and easy care performances are highly
suitable for pillows, comforters, bedspreads, quilted house holds
and apparel fabrics and winter jackets.
Non Wovens:
Inner linings / interfacings for coats, suits and jackets, shoulder pads
and mattress inner linings.
Industrial Applications:
Carpets, Pile fabrics, tyre cords, conveyor belts, tents, ropes,
parachute cloths, fishing nets, sail cloths, filters, seed / fertilizer
bags
POLYESTER-modification
Polyester Micro-fibre:
∆ 0.5 to 1 denier / filament: Ski Jackets, Outer wear
sports wear, Snow jackets
∆ 0.6 to 0.7 denier / filament: Intimate apparels, Ski
wear, Outer wear, Body fit, exercise clothing
Micro fibres provides amazing and exciting drape /
hand for high fashion women’s wear.
Improved wicking provides good comfort
performance for intimate / body fit / sports wear
NYLON General Features
Synthetic Polyamide molecular structure;
Produced as filaments and staple;
Generally round cross-section, but can be
engineered any shape;
Naturally white color;
The most common and heavily produced
polyamides are Nylon 6, Nylon 6 6, which
are nearly identical.
Properties and performance of Nylon fabrics
’
Properties and performance of Nylon fabrics
“ ”
NYLON in Consumer Use
SPANDEX (LYCRA) in Consumer Use
SPANDEX (LYCRA)
Lycra Adds life to clothes:
Lycra in swimwear, innerwear and active sports
wear means lasting fit with comfort and freedom of
movement;
Lycra in tailored clothes and fashion wear freedom of
movement, extra comfort and an elegant drape;
It also improves the quality of Knitted / Woven fabrics as it
prevents bagging and accelerate wrinkle recovery;
Lycra in hosiery (Tricot Knit Lingere) provides
improved comfort, wrinkle free, luxurious smooth and soft feel
and define the shape and body without binding