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Full Chapter Introduction To Rock Mountain Climbing To The Top and Down The Step by Step Fundamentals in Learning How Ruth Mendenhall PDF
Full Chapter Introduction To Rock Mountain Climbing To The Top and Down The Step by Step Fundamentals in Learning How Ruth Mendenhall PDF
Full Chapter Introduction To Rock Mountain Climbing To The Top and Down The Step by Step Fundamentals in Learning How Ruth Mendenhall PDF
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Introduction to Rock & Mountain
Climbing
Introduction to Rock & Mountain
Climbing
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or
by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and
retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by
a reviewer who may quote passages in a review.
Ground Work
If determined, you will find yourself among climbers willing and able to
teach you. Your mentor may happen to be the type to take you at once on a
long climb, where by necessity you quickly find out something about
everything. It is more probable that you will spend hours on or near the
ground, learning the basic techniquas of safe climbing.
As an utter novice, you need not worry about providing equipment. Vear
old clothes adequate for the weather, and rubber-soled shoes. The group or
individual instructing provides the ropes. Though learners are expected to
use the ropes, the owners are fussy about their lifelines, which must be
treated with tender loving care: never stepped on, nor pulled needlessly in
the dirt, nor dragged over sharp edges.
Knots
The protective use of the rope naturally involves tying yourself onto it.
Knots used by climbers must be bombproof, foolproof, correctly and
quickly tied, and of a kind that can also be untied readily (without benefit of
a hatchet). Practice the knots at home, with a piece of string or rope, until
you can tie them under any conditions, no matter how adverse. The basic
climbing knots, illustrated in the first seven figures of Chapter 2 (Figures 2-
1 through 2-7), are drawn as they will look while you are tying them. Left-
handed people often prefer to tie them in reverse.
Bowline
For tying the end of the rope around your waist. Standardize your method
of tying it. For the version illustrated in Figure 2-1 , pass the rope behind
you from left to right. Now hold the long or “standing” part of the rope in
your left hand, and the short end in your right. With the left hand, make a
loop as shown. Put the end up through the loop, around the standing end,
and back down through the loop. After tying the knot, work it along the
rope until the waist loop is really snug. Test and set this knot with a good
tug. The bowline tends to loosen with use, and should be safeguarded in one
of the two ways illustrated in Figure 2-2: (1) Add one or two overhand
knots around the waist loop. (2) Thread the end back through the knot
before setting it. This is a less bulky method used by some experienced
climbers. The end goes over the right side of the waist loop; under the left
side; and up through the loop, parallel with the standing end. Several inches
of rope should remain after the knot is secured; otherwise retie the knot.
Check the bowline occasionally during a climb and tighten the waist loop as
necessary.
Bowline-on-a-Coil
Almost identical to the simple bowline, but more complicated to tie.
Wind the rope around your waist several times, an arrangement which is
more comfortable if you fall or must be held on the rope. Tie the knot
around the coil as illustrated in Figure 2-3, and secure it.
Butterfly
Usually used for the middle man in rock climbing, when three people are
tied into one rope. It is a symmetrical knot which is equally strong when
pulled from either side. Make sure the waist loop is tightened before
starting to climb. This knot tends to tighten in use, and is not secured (see
Fig. 2-4).
Overhand
Used to prevent many other knots from slipping (see Fig. 2-2).
Water Knot
Used for joining ends of flat sling material. Tie an overhand knot, and
thread the other end through it in the opposite direction, as shown in Figure
2-5. Make sure the two parts of the sling lie flat against each other
throughout the knot.
Flemish Bend
Used to join two ropes of the same or unequal diameters. It is similar to
the water knot, but start by tying a figure-8 knot in one of the ends, leaving
an ample end for a safety knot. Thread an end of the other rope through the
knot in the opposite direction, as shown in Figure 2-6. The standing parts of
the ropes pull against each other. Make sure the two ropes lie parallel
throughout the entire knot. Tighten and test by pulling hard on the standing
ends of both ropes, especially when the diameters are unequal. Secure on
each side with one or more overhand knots.
Prusik
Formed by twisting a loop of light rope around a fixed rope hanging
vertically, as illustrated in Figure 2-7. The prusik knot has the property of
remaining in place when weighted, but slipping easily up or down when
unweighted. This makes it possible to stand in loops, and ascend a rope in
an emergency. The average person is physically unable to climb a long rope
hand over hand; also, if you use your climbing rope for handholds, slack
accumulates below, and you are no longer protected with an upper belay
(see Upper Belays, later in this chapter). Prusik slings vary in size to fit the
person. They should be approximately six feet in circumference, made from
quarter-inch rope. Manila holds best, but nylon will serve if the sling is
passed around the rope a third time. Even flat slings will work, but require
more effort.
One of the standard techniques for ascending a rope with prusiks is to use
three slings. Attached at intervals to the vertical rope, these form a chest
loop for balance, and two footsteps. To ascend, stand with all your weight in
the lowest sling, while raising the next one as high as you can step. Transfer
your weight to the upper footstep, and raise the chest loop as high as you
can. Next pull up the rope below so you can reach the second foot loop, and
slip it up as far as possible. Stand in both loops. Repeat. Prusiking can be
practiced from the limb of a tree. The average prusik on rock is easier, as
you are less apt to twirl around.
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Another patient aged twenty-seven had whooping cough, which
lasted six weeks, and was followed by severe pain in the back. For
this she consulted various physicians, being treated for Pott's
disease and spinal irritation. She, however, continued to grow worse,
and every jar and twist gave severe pain. At this time she had lost
much flesh, had pain in her back and elsewhere, and was subject to
numerous and violent spasms. When first seen by the physician who
consulted me she was complaining of pains in her legs, hips, and left
shoulder, which she considered rheumatic, and with pain in the
abdomen. Examination of the back with the patient on her side
showed a slight prominence over the position of the first or second
lumbar vertebra. The spot was painful on pressure, and had been so
ever since the attack of whooping cough three years before. A tap on
the sole of either foot made her complain of severe pain in the back.
The same result followed pressure on the head. The patient was
unable to stand or walk, but occasionally sat up for a short time,
although suffering all the time. There was no muscular rigidity. The
limbs and body were quite thin, but, so far as could be detected, she
had no loss of motor or sensory power. At times, when the pains
were worse, the arms would be flexed involuntarily, and she stated
that once the spine was drawn back and a little sideways. The pain
in the hips was augmented by pressure. During the application of a
plaster bandage she had a sort of fit and fainted, and the application
was suspended. She soon recovered consciousness, but refused to
allow the completion of the dressing. I diagnosticated the affection as
largely hysterical, and a few months later received word that the
patient was on her feet and well.
A young lady is sick, and for two years is seen by all the leading
doctors in London; a clergyman is asked in and prays over her, and
she gets up and walks. The doctors all join in and say the case was
one of hysteria—that there was nothing the matter with her. Then,
says Wilks, “Why was the girl subjected to local treatment and doses
of physic for years? Why did not the doctors do what the parson
did?”