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Public Health Mini-Guide
Obesity
About the authors
Nick Townsend is a Senior Researcher at Oxford University, UK. He leads
on a programme of research into the epidemiology of cardiovascular disease
(CVD) with a special interest in obesity and its associated risk factors. Nick has
published widely on obesity as well as presenting findings at a number of UK and
international conferences. He teaches on a range of graduate and postgraduate
courses within the university and has also acted as a guest lecturer on the courses
of other institutions. His research focuses on the complex determination of
obesity, with a focus on policy interventions and the promotion of healthy
behaviour in schools.
Angela Scriven is a Reader in Health Promotion at Brunel University in
London, UK. She has been teaching and researching in the field of health
promotion for over 30 year and has published widely including authoring,
editing or co-editing the following books Health Promotion Alliances: Theory
and Practice (1998); Health Promotion: Professional Perspectives (1996; 2001 2nd
edn); Promoting Health: Global Perspectives (2005); Health Promoting Practice:
The Contribution of Nurses and Allied Health Professionals (2005); Public Health:
Social Context and Action (2007); Promoting Health: A Practical Guide (2010);
Health Promotion for Health Practitioners (2010); Health Promotion Settings:
Principles and Practice (2012). Her research is centred on the relationship
between health promotion policy and practice within specific contexts. She
is a member of the International Union of Health Promotion and Education
(IUHPE), is President Elect for the Institute of Health Promotion and Education
(IHPE) and is a Fellow of the Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH).

For Elsevier
Content Strategist: Mairi McCubbin
Content Development Specialist: Barbara Simmons
Project Manager: Umarani Natarajan
Designer/Design Direction: Miles Hitchen
Public Health Mini-Guide
Obesity

Nick Townsend
Senior Researcher, University of Oxford, Oxford, UK

Angela Scriven
Reader in Health Promotion, Brunel University, London, UK

Series editor:
Angela Scriven

Edinburgh London New York Oxford Philadelphia St Louis Sydney Toronto 2014
© 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.

No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or
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This book and the individual contributions contained in it are protected under copyright by the
Publisher (other than as may be noted herein).

ISBN 9780702046346

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data


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Notices
Knowledge and best practice in this field are constantly changing. As new research and experience broaden
our understanding, changes in research methods, professional practices, or medical treatment may become
necessary.
Practitioners and researchers must always rely on their own experience and knowledge in evaluating and
using any information, methods, compounds, or experiments described herein. In using such information
or methods they should be mindful of their own safety and the safety of others, including parties for whom
they have a professional responsibility.
With respect to any drug or pharmaceutical products identified, readers are advised to check the most
current information provided (i) on procedures featured or (ii) by the manufacturer of each product to be
administered, to verify the recommended dose or formula, the method and duration of administration, and
contraindications. It is the responsibility of practitioners, relying on their own experience and knowledge of
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and to take all appropriate safety precautions.
To the fullest extent of the law, neither the Publisher nor the authors, contributors, or editors, assume any
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Printed in China
Titles in the Public Health Mini-Guide series:
Obesity
Nick Townsend, Angela Scriven
ISBN 9780702046346
Alcohol Misuse (forthcoming)
Ken Barrie, Angela Scriven
ISBN 9780702046384
Diabetes (forthcoming)
Josie Evans, Angela Scriven
ISBN 9780702046377
Series preface

The UK Government highlighted in the Foreword to its strategy for public


health in England, the Healthy Lives, Healthy People White Paper1 some of the
public health challenges that are facing those working to improve public health:
‘Britain is now the most obese nation in Europe. We have among the worst
rates of sexually transmitted infections recorded, a relatively large population of
problem drug users and rising levels of harm from alcohol. Smoking alone claims
over 80,000 lives in every year. Experts estimate that tackling poor mental health
could reduce our overall disease burden by nearly a quarter. Health inequalities
between rich and poor have been getting progressively worse’.
The public health targets are clear both in the White Paper and in Our Health
and Wellbeing Today,2 published to accompany the White Paper, with the targets
being supplemented by further policy drivers for mental health, tobacco control,
obesity, sexual health and the wider determinants. The proposals and identified
priorities in the White Paper apply to England, but they are of equal concern
in the Devolved Administrations and globally, as evidenced in World Health
Organization reports (www.who.int/whr/en/index.html). The Public Health
Mini-Guides series covers some of the key health targets identified by the UK
Government and WHO. The Mini-Guides highlight, in a concise, easily accessible
manner, what the problems are and the range of potential solutions available to
those professionals with a responsibility to promote health.

What the Public Health Mini-Guides provide


The Mini-Guides are written to provide up-to-date, evidence-based information in a
convenient pocket-sized format, on a range of current key public health topics. They
will support the work of health and social care practitioners and students on courses
related to public health and health promotion.
Each volume provides an objective and balanced introduction to an overview
of the epidemiological, scientific, and other factors relating to public health. The
Mini-Guides are structured to provide easy access to information. The first chapters
cover background information needed to quickly understand the issue, including
the epidemiology, demography and physiology. The later chapters examine
examples of public health action to address the issue, covering health promotion
Series preface

intervention, legislative and other measures. The Mini-Guides are designed to


be essential reference texts for students, practitioners and researchers with a
professional interest in public health and health promotion.

Uxbridge, 2012 Angela Scriven

References
1. The Stationery Office. Healthy Lives, Healthy People. White Paper. 2010.
2. Department of Health. Our Health and Wellbeing Today. London: Department of Health; 2010.

viii
Preface

Obesity and its linked morbidity and mortality place a burden not only on the
individual but also on society as a whole. It is a significant public health challenge
on a global scale. This Mini Guide presents key themes relating to this challenge,
including the means of measuring obesity, the most recent prevalence and trends,
and the health consequences and causes of obesity, along with approaches to
counter obesity both at an individual and a population level.
Chapter 1 starts with defining obesity, and then critiques the various measures by
assessing their strengths and weaknesses. Obesity in children and the use of growth charts
is considered alongside the range of thresholds available (UK90, CDC, IOTF, WHO)
and an explanation of the difficulties in using them. The chapter finishes with a short
piece on the adiposity rebound and evidence of predicting future obesity. Chapter 2
covers prevalence and trends with regional, ethnic and social differences in prevalence
in the UK compared to international data and estimated future trends. Chapter 3
examines the health consequences of obesity, highlighting any extra complications from
obesity in childhood. Relative risks, where available, of some of these morbidities are
presented. Causal pathways are discussed and the difficulty in separating obesity as a risk
factor is explained alongside the evidence of obesity related mortality. Chapter 4 covers
the causes of obesity and their interrelations and demonstrates the complex nature of
the determination of obesity. Chapter 5 deals with ways of combating obesity at the
individual level with description of how to treat obese individuals, from diet and exercise
to medical intervention including NICE recommendations. Chapter 6 assesses how
to intervene at a population rather than individual level, introducing a public health
approach to preventing obesity, including policy impacts.
Each chapter covers important content on these themes with suggestions on
where readers can find more information through links to webpages, resources and
further reading. Understanding is facilitated through Case Studies, examples in
Boxes, Thinking Points and an end-of-chapter set of Summary Points.
1 Defining the obesity
problem

a General Practice (GP) surgery is


What is obesity? routinely measuring patients visiting
Obesity is a medical condition their practice in order to identify
characterised by an excess of adipose those who are overweight or obese,
tissue (fat) in the body that may have it is important that when individuals
adverse effect on the health of an are classified within high-risk weight
individual1–4 (see Chapter 3 for detailed status thresholds, they receive suitable
coverage of the health risks of obesity). treatment to enable them to reduce
The World Health Organization their weight in a healthy manner.
(WHO) similarly defines overweight Surveillance programmes The aim
and obesity as abnormal or excessive here is to monitor the levels of obesity
fat accumulation that presents a risk to in a population rather than to identify
health.5 This is an important definition, those who require treatment.9–11
as it indicates what to measure when Within surveillance programmes, data
investigating obesity. are usually anonymised, meaning that
no routine feedback of individualised
Measuring obesity results is provided, nor is any formal
link to treatment maintained. Data
Screening programmes These collected from these programmes
are large-scale programmes that enable the identification and
identify those who are at risk from monitoring of trends over time and
obesity-related ill health. They assist in the targeting of interventions.
should be accompanied by an Additionally, information from
explicit intention to prevent and also surveillance programmes may be
reduce the prevalence of obesity in used to analyse different causal and
the population.6–9 For example, if contributory factors for overweight
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

and obesity, supporting the On occasions programmes may


development of effective interventions straddle the line between screening and
and public health approaches to surveillance, such as the National Child
tackle obesity12,13 (see Chapter 6 for Measurement Programme (NCMP) in
an overview of public health obesity England (see the NCMP Case Study in
interventions). Box 1.1).

Thinking points
1. Some people object to the collection of measurements related to obesity, although
screening for other health conditions is welcomed; why is there this disparity?
2. What unintended harms can arise from running obesity measuring
programmes?
3. Is it ethically sound to run a surveillance programme in which those identified
as at risk of ill health are not informed?
4. With changes to the NHS in England, the running of the NCMP may have to
change; should it be retained, and what should be saved in order to link future
obesity measurement findings to earlier data?

Box 1.1 Case study: National Child Measurement Programme


The National Child Measurement Programme (NCMP) for England was established in
2005/06. The NCMP collects population-level surveillance data for children through
taking annual measurements of height and weight for Reception year (typically
aged 4–5 years) and Year 6 (typically aged 10–11 years) primary school pupils.14
The measurement exercise was coordinated locally by Primary Care Trusts (PCTs)
with the support and cooperation of schools.15 PCTs were freestanding statutory
bodies of the National Health Service (NHS) that had the responsibility for securing
the provision of a full range of primary care services for the local populations. There
were 152 PCTs covering all of England within which the collection of NCMP data was
coordinated. However, changes to the structure of the NHS under the Health and
Social Care Bill 2011 announced the abolishment of PCTs by 2013, with the public
health aspects of the PCTs taken on by local councils.16 With the abolition of the
PCTs, responsibility for NCMP measurement was taken on by Local Authorities with
central collation of the data conducted by the Health and Social Care Information
Centre (HSCIC) which was formally known as the NHS Information Centre. With
the abolition of the PCTs in 2013 this measurement became the responsibility of
Local Authorities. Authorities can undertake measurements at any time during the
school year.17 Height and weight measurements are taken by health professionals,

Continued
2
 Defining the obesity problem 1

usually school nurses, in a room or screened area. Measurements are taken with
children in ‘normal light indoor clothing’ without shoes or coats. The weight is
recorded in kilograms (kg) to the first decimal place (the nearest 100 g) and height
is recorded in cm to the first decimal place (the nearest mm).17 Some differences
between PCTs in the collection and recording of data had been found to influence
prevalence estimates at the PCT level.18
The NCMP data are key to improving understanding of overweight and obesity
in children. They are used at a national level to inform policy and locally to inform
the planning and commissioning of services. The NCMP also provides local areas
with an opportunity to raise public awareness of child obesity as well as informing
parents of a child's result, sent through a letter.14,19 In addition, the Public Health
England Obesity Knowledge and Intelligence team (formerly the National Obesity
Observatory) presents NCMP data in an e-Atlas – an interactive mapping tool
that enables the user to compare a range of indicators, examine correlations and
allows regional and national comparisons: www.noo.org.uk/visualisation/eatlas
Further details on the NCMP can be found at the Obesity Knowledge and
Intelligence team website (www.noo.org.uk/NCMP) and through the Health and
Social Care Information Service (http://www.hscic.gov.uk/ncmp).

Measurement of obesity as a proxy for excess adiposity by


There is a lot of evidence to suggest providing a weight for height adjusted
that self-reported height and weight measure, to cross-sectional scans such as
data are unreliable20–22 with indications magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) and
that overweight or obese adults tend computerized tomography (CT), which
to underestimate their weight20,22–24 or provide an accurate measurement of
overestimate their height,20,23 with the amount and distribution of adipose
degree to which this is done varying tissue within an individual's body. In
by age;21,23,25 sex;20–22 and ethnicity.26,27 general the more complex measuring
Similar results have also been found with processes are the more time consuming
adolescents28–32 and with parents reporting and expensive to conduct, making it
on the weight of their children.33–35 It is challenging to use them on a large
imperative, therefore, in collecting data on scale.
obesity, or in assessing an individual's risk
of obesity-related ill health, that objective Common measures of obesity
accurate measures are taken. Body Mass Index (BMI)
There are a number of measures BMI is an index of weight-for-height
which can be taken to identify those that is most commonly used to classify
at risk from obesity-related ill health. weight status. It is calculated as weight
These range from the relatively simple in kilograms divided by the square of
Body Mass Index (BMI), which acts height in metres (Box 1.2).
3
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

use of BMI as a practical approach in the


Box 1.2 Formula for Body Mass
clinical setting.39
Index (BMI)
Weaknesses and strengths of BMI
weight ( kilograms) As BMI is an index of mass for height
BMI =
height ( metres) it cannot distinguish between weight
2

associated with muscle mass and


weight associated with fat mass. The
Table 1.1 Classification of weight relationship between BMI and adiposity
status in adults according to BMI can, therefore, vary according to the
build of an individual. This means that
BMI RANGE CLASSIFICATION an equal BMI might not correspond
(kg/m2)
to the same degree of adiposity across
<18.5 Underweight populations, and it can be difficult to
18.5–24.9 Normal weight use BMI when comparing between
25–29.9 Overweight subgroups of a population as this
30–39.9 Obese association may differ by sex,40 age41,42
≥40 Morbidly obese and ethnic group.43
Additionally, although we have
much evidence that increasing BMI is
Weight status is classified according to associated with increasing ill health,44
BMI from WHO classifications that are the cut-offs used to classify overweight
based largely on the association between and obesity from BMI are statistical, as
BMI and mortality36 (Table 1.1). These they are assigned to certain percentiles of
values are age-independent and the same the reference population,45 rather than
for both sexes. being truly health based. This means
The National Institute for Health that the thresholds should not be used
and Care Excellence (NICE) and as an exact measure of risk. For example,
the Australian Government National individuals whose BMI lies either side of
Health and Medical Research Council a threshold are more similar than those
(NHMRC) in Australia recommend at opposing ends of a weight category.
using BMI as a measure of overweight in BMI is a continuous measure; therefore
adults, but both warn that this should be converting it to a discrete measures such
interpreted with caution as it does not as weight status reduces precision and
provide a direct measure of adiposity.37,38 variability and may also misrepresent
The National Institutes for Health trends on a population level as it can
(NIH) in the United States published lead to disproportionate change.46 It
guidelines in 1998 that are still promoted is possible, however, to avoid this by
by the Centers for Disease Control and mapping changes in the population using
Prevention (CDC) recommending the smoothed curves of BMI, which provide
4
 Defining the obesity problem 1

a clearer description of what changes are samples. The means by which P is


occurring on a population level. calculated from a sample is explained
Despite concerns over BMI, it further in the original paper by Benn
has consistently been found to be a published in 1971.49
reasonable proxy for body fat when There is some suggestion that
used for large numbers of individuals. the Ponderal Index is suitable for
Research comparing BMI to body neonates and should be used instead
fat percentage as measured through of birth weight, although some
accurate measurement of adiposity have studies have suggested there is little
found a strong correlation between difference between the two measures in
BMI and total body fat,47 as well predicting neonatal morbidity,50,51 or
as total abdominal adipose tissue,48 that BMI is preferable.52 The Ponderal
although this correlation was not strong Index is not thought to be a good
for visceral adipose tissue.48 BMI is measure for adiposity in adults.53
also closely correlated to obesity ill Amongst adults the Benn index
health on a population level and is a and BMI have been suggested to be
non-invasive procedure that can be valid estimates of body fat in respect
carried out quickly. The collection of to their relationship with hydrostatic
measurements for BMI is not specialised measures.54 However, it is not evident
and does not require extensive that the population-specific exponent
training, nor is expensive equipment (P) in the Benn index conveys a
required. Additionally as BMI has material advantage in nutritional
been in use for such a long period of assessment,55 and makes its use in
time, measurements collected in the public health and epidemiology
present day can be compared to those complicated. It is not recommended
going back over many generations. for use in children.56
In general, BMI has supplanted all
Other height to weight indices other weight and height indices as a
As well as BMI there are other height measure of adiposity in all ages and
and weight indices used as proxies has become the index of choice in
for obesity. These include the Benn measuring obesity.
Index and the Ponderal Index. The
Ponderal Index, also referred to as the Abdominal circumference
Khosla-Lowe index, is similar to BMI measurements
but height is raised to the power of Waist circumference, measured at the
three, rather than two (mass/height3). midpoint between the lower border
The Benn Index raises height to a of the rib cage and the iliac crest, is
population-specific exponent (mass/ found to be closely correlated to BMI,
heightP), where P differs between with both showing a similar association
5
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

with future morbidity and mortality. abdominal fat mass can vary within a
Changes in waist circumference have narrow range of total body fat or BMI
been found to reflect changes in risk due to other factors, with variation
of comorbidities associated with found between sexes,68 by age41,42 and
obesity. This is particularly the case ethnic group.43
with cardiovascular disease (CVD) Waist circumference when used on
for which waist circumference is its own is uncontrolled for body shape,
associated independently of BMI and although there are a number of ratios
may be a better predictor.57–62 Waist used in order to allow this. Waist-to-hip
circumference acts as a proxy measure or waist-to-height ratios provide some
of abdominal fat mass,63,64 or total adjustment for the shape of the body,
body fat.65 Abdominal fat has been similar to BMI, and appear in some studies
found to be of greater risk than fat to be superior to waist circumference and
deposited in other parts of the body, BMI at predicting future disease risk.69
particularly when it is located within NICE refer to a threshold for the waist-
the abdominal cavity surrounding the to-hip ratio of 1.0 for men and 0.85 for
organs, otherwise known as intra- women, above which increased risk to
abdominal or visceral fat. The WHO health is indicated.38
have outlined waist circumference The Conicity Index (CI) is an index
measurements that denote enhanced that controls abdominal girth in metres
relative risk (Table 1.2),1 with different by a function of weight in kilograms
thresholds produced for men and and height in metres70 (Box 1.3). It has
women, as women show increases in
relative risk of coronary heart disease
(CHD) at lower waist circumferences Box 1.3 Conicity Index
than men.66,67 These guidelines are also
abdominal girth (metres)
supported by the NHMRC, Australia37 CI =
Wt (kilograms)
and in the United States for assessing (0.109)
Ht (metres)
abdominal adiposity.39 However,

Table 1.2 Sex-specific waist circumference that denote increased risk


of metabolic consequences

SEX RISK OF OBESITY-RELATED METABOLIC COMPLICATIONS

Increased risk Substantially increased risk

Men ≥94 cm (≈37 inches) ≥102 cm (≈40 inches)


Women ≥80 cm (≈32 inches) ≥88 cm (≈35 inches)

6
 Defining the obesity problem 1

been claimed that the CI has a number an individual's relative risk of developing
of advantages over waist-to- hip ratio as obesity-related health problems could
it has a theoretical range, it includes a be more accurately classified using
built-in adjustment for height and weight both BMI and waist circumference
and it does not require a measure of hip than either measure alone.1 These are
circumference.70,71 recommended by both NICE38 and
Although these indices provide some NIH39 in the USA with the NHMRC
adjustment for the shape of the body, also recommending a combination of
as well as appearing in some studies to BMI and circumference measurements
be superior to waist circumference at in assessing relative changes in fatness.37
predicting future disease risk,62,72 it is There are no evidence-based thresholds to
unclear whether these measures alone classify individuals as being at increased
can provide a superior indication of risk risk using BMI with ratio measures such
than BMI, despite proven links between as waist-to-height or waist-to-hip.62
measures of central adiposity and Weaknesses and strengths
obesity-related ill health. NICE do not of abdominal circumference
recommend using waist circumference measures A shared weakness of
as a routine measure, suggesting instead circumference measures is that both hip
that circumference measures and ratios and waist measurements show greater
may be used to provide additional degrees of intra- and inter-rater error
information on the risk of developing than height and weight measurements
other long-term health problems.38 and prove to be less accurate. Collecting
WHO recommend thresholds to circumference measures requires more
assess the relative risk of obesity-related extensive training to ensure the accuracy
ill health by combining BMI and of the measurements. In comparison
waist circumference measurements to BMI these measurements are also
(Table 1.3), in response to evidence that slightly more invasive, as measures

Table 1.3 WHO classifications for risk of obesity-related ill health

CLASSIFICATION BMI (kg/m2) WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE (cm)

Normal WC* Increased WC**

Underweight <18.5 No increased risk No increased risk


Healthy weight 18.5–24.9 No increased risk Increased risk
Overweight 25–29.9 Increased risk High risk
Obesity >30 High risk Very high risk
*WC for Men 94–102; WC for women 80–88.
**WC for Men >102; WC for women >88.

7
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

of central adiposity generally require measures to test in a precise location


greater physical contact and involve the with a fixed pressure, hence intra- and
subject removing or lifting up outer inter-rater reliability has been found to
clothing. This can make a difference be an issue for skin fold measurement.73
in the obtaining of ethical consent for Although reliability can be improved
monitoring programmes and can make by training and standardisation of
patients feel uneasy. technique this requires greater training
Despite concerns over the than height, weight and circumference
measurement process circumference measures. Different results are possible
measures are still relatively easy and cheap with different methods, whilst the
to obtain. They can be collected quickly accuracy of these estimates is more
and require little specialist training dependent on a person's unique body
compared to most measures, excluding fat distribution than on the number of
BMI. Evidence that circumference sites measured. Skinfold measurements
measures act as a proxy for abdominal also involve body contact between
fat and future ill health independently of operator and subject, normally requiring
BMI demonstrates that these measures the removal of clothing, particularly
provide additional information to BMI, from the upper part of the body, hence,
hence recommendations to combine measurement may be considered
these measurements. intrusive or embarrassing by some
individuals. Skinfold-based body fat
Skinfold estimation methods estimation is also sensitive to the type of
Skinfold estimation methods are caliper used; thus equipment must be
based on skinfold thickness tests in standardised.
which the thickness of subcutaneous Skinfold estimation methods only
fat located beneath the skin is measure subcutaneous adipose tissue, the
measured by grasping a fold of skin fat located under the skin at particular
and subcutaneous fat and measuring points around the body. Individuals may
its thickness using calipers, at several have equal measurements at all skinfold
standardised points on the body. These sites, yet differ greatly in their body fat
measurements are converted to an levels, in particular due to differences
estimated body fat percentage by an in fat deposits in other parts of the
equation. Some formulas require as few body such as visceral adipose tissue.
as three measurements, usually taken at Additionally, older individuals have been
the triceps, subscapular and supra-iliac found to have a lower body density for
sites,38 others as many as seven. the same skinfold measurements, assumed
Weaknesses and strengths of to signify a higher body fat percentage;
skinfold estimation methods It is very however, older, highly athletic individuals
important when collecting skinfold might not fit this assumption, causing
8
 Defining the obesity problem 1

the formulas to underestimate their body not recommend using BIA as a substitute
density. Some models attempt to partially for BMI in measuring general adiposity,38
address many of these problems by whilst guidelines published in the United
including age as a variable in the statistics States also detail that BIA provides
and the resulting formula. no advantage over BMI in the clinical
Although skinfold measurements management of patients, although these
may not give an accurate reading of real guidelines were published in 1998.39 The
body fat percentage, they can be used as NHMRC warn that BIA may be used in
a reliable measure of body composition settings in which its limitations may not
change over a period of time, provided be understood by those operating it.75
the test is carried out by the same person Weaknesses and strengths of Bio
with the same technique to avoid intra- Impedance Analysis Although small
and inter-rater reliability concerns.38 inexpensive BIA devices are available
which measure impedance hand-to-hand
Bio Impedance Analysis or foot-to-foot, as well as being used
Bio Impedance Analysis (BIA) utilises the whilst standing, there is concern
different electrical properties of lean tissue that impedance measurements
and adipose tissue in order to produce using these types of BIA devices are
an estimate of an individual's percentage disproportionately determined by the
body fat. Lean tissue is made up of over tissues of the limbs that are in contact
70% water and therefore acts as an with the electrodes, meaning that
electrical conductor, whereas adipose they may fail to assess trunk adiposity
tissue has no water content acting as an accurately. Validations of old BIA devices
insulator, therefore impeding the flow suggest it is not as accurate as BMI in
of electricity through the body. In order predicting body fat.47
to produce an estimate for percentage Segmental BIA devices claim to
body fat a low and safe electrical current include accurate measurements of
is passed through the body using abdominal adiposity by measuring the
electrodes that are held or stood on by the impedance of arms, legs and trunk
individual and which also measure the separately. Segmental BIA is possible
impedance, or resistance to the flow of using devices individuals can stand
this current through the body. From these on, providing electrodes for hands and
measures the BIA machine estimates feet. These devices are slightly more
total body water, then converting this expensive and less portable than the
into an estimate of body fat and fat-free more accessible machines and still may
mass (FFM) using prediction equations not completely account for abdominal
along with measurements of height, fat. BIA devices have been developed that
weight, age and sex, normally entered measure impedance of the abdominal
into the machine manually.74 NICE do region using an electrode belt, with the
9
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

only additional input required being the so their validity when applied to
sex of the participant. Tests on newer populations other than those in which
devices which attempt to measure the they were developed is unclear.
whole body indicate that these correlate Although BIA devices take intricate
well with total abdominal adipose measures of impedance, they are
tissue, although this correlation was relatively easy to use and require little
not stronger than BMI measurements. training, with some designed for home
It was also found that along with BMI use. These devices can also be used to
and waist circumference, this particular measure weight, or mass, and so can
BIA device which measures abdominal therefore be used at the same time to
impedance did not provide a good proxy calculate BMI; therefore the additional
for visceral fat, suggesting that a more collection of impedance data is of little
sophisticated imaging technique such imposition. It is also clear that much
as MRI is warranted when attempting development has occurred within BIA
to measure it.48 Additionally this in recent years. It is, therefore, possible
new device was found to be a precise that both the devices and equations used
measure of both abdominal fat and waist to calculate body fat percentage may
circumference, although it did not show improve, meaning that more accurate
any closer correlation with total body measures may be collected in the future
fat as determined by MRI than manual and measurements which have already
waist circumference measures and BMI.76 been collected could be converted to
In general impedance readings can
vary with skin conditions such as Thinking points
dryness, temperature and the presence
of sweat such that individual differences 1. Classifying overweight and
obesity uses very distinct cut-offs,
in hydration state may confound
how should these be used so that
the impedance readings. This can
at-risk individuals are not missed?
influence many measures, however, 2. If someone is not classified
as hydration can also influence mass as obese through these
leading to changes in BMI. BIA is also measurements what else could
not suitable for use on anyone with be measured or discussed in
significant amounts of metal in the order to identify any future risk?
body (for example, joint replacements 3. What needs to be done to ensure
or pacemakers) or on pregnant that the measurements taken are
women, who carry extra weight and reliable?
4. What makes a desirable
extracellular water. Additionally few of
measurement in investigating
the equations to estimate body fat from
obesity on an individual and
the impedance measurements have been population level?
developed in non-white populations77
10
 Defining the obesity problem 1

more accurate estimates of body fat contains a person and when it does
through using these improved equations. not are compared, and body volume is
calculated. This measure of body volume
Technical measures of obesity can then be converted into a measure of
body density by adjusting for the height
A number of more technical and
and weight of the individual. These
advanced means by which to measure
measures of body density can then be
obesity have been developed. These
converted into percentage fat mass using
more technical means may prove to be
a standard equation.78
more accurate that the more common
Weaknesses and strengths of body
methods described above but in general
density measures Both dunk tanks
are more time consuming, more
expensive and require specialist training. and body pods are expensive equipment
Technical measures are discussed below that require specialist training. The dunk
in terms of body density measures, tank requires the participant to get wet,
chemical measures, internal scanning and whilst for both methods, measurement
photography and 3-D body scanning. requires individuals to wear a tight-
fitting bathing suit, the body pod also
Body density measurements requiring the wearing of a swim cap.
Body density measurements are Conditions such as temperature and
normally obtained in two ways, either humidity can affect the results and in
in water using a dunk tank, otherwise the dunk tank individuals must be able
known as hydrodensitometry, or using to expire completely.78 Although both
air in a body pod, also known as air- provide a measure of body density, or
displacement plethysmography. body volume, rather than percentage
Dunk tanks compare an individual's fat mass, an equation is used to convert
weight in water to their weight in air, these measures into an estimate of
whilst controlling for lung volume. percentage fat mass. However, this
Body tissues vary in their buoyancy with assumes consistent density in fat-free
adipose tissue more buoyant than lean mass between individuals, which is not
tissue. Individuals with proportionally always the case, for example children's
higher body fat will therefore have bones are less dense than adults, whereas
less overall body density. Body pods athletes commonly have more dense
measure the body volume of an bones than non-athletes.78
individual by measuring the amount of Both body density measurements
air displaced by an individual. A body have a high level of accuracy in
pod consists of two chambers, separated collecting measurements, it is only
by a sensitive membrane that measures in converting these into estimates for
pressure. The change in air pressure other measures such as percentage
in the test chamber between when it body fat that inaccuracies occur.
11
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

They can therefore be useful in Weaknesses and strengths of


comparing one measure, or monitoring chemical measures Although some
one individual. report isotope dilution as simple and
inexpensive, others discuss the high
Chemical measures cost and difficulty in mass spectrometer
The two most common forms of analysis;81 potassium counting is also
chemical measures of obesity are expensive in comparison to more
isotope dilution and body cell counting. simple methods and requires specialist
Isotope dilution uses a measure of body training.2 Isotope dilution assumes a
hydration to estimate total body fat. constant relationship between total
Healthy adults typically have a mean body weight and fat-free mass (0.73);80
hydration of 73%. As adipose tissue has a general reference is also used in
no water content, individuals with high potassium counting which can vary
adiposity will have a lower percentage by sex, ethnicity and age, particularly
hydration. To take the measurement a before and after puberty.82 Additionally
known quantity of isotope is ingested; the radioactive measurement of
one of three is commonly used: potassium is carried out in a darkened
oxygen-18, deuterium, and tritium. room and can prove frightening for
After allowing for equilibration, a children.81
sample of body fluids, usually serum, Both chemical measurements
is taken and the correlation of the collect accurate chemical readings; if
isotope is then measured by mass equations are accurate these can lead to
spectroscopy or infrared methods precise measures of body fat. These can
providing a measurement of percentage prove useful in monitoring individuals
of body fluids.79 Body cell counting over time.
takes advantage of the known ratio of
radioactive potassium 40 K to non- Internal scanning
radioactive 39 K. A measure of the A number of methods can be used
radioactive isotope in an individual to take internal scans of the body to
can be used to calculate total body estimate body fat. These include dual-
potassium which can be used to derive energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA),
an estimate of intracellular fluid and computerised tomography (CT) and
body cell mass,80 if you assume a magnetic resonance imaging (MRI).
constant relationship between total Dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry
body potassium and fat-free mass.2 (DXA) uses X-ray absorption to
Total body fat is then calculated by estimate the amounts and densities of
subtracting the fat-free mass estimated various tissues within the body, bone,
from this measurement from the muscle and fat, as they all transmit
measured mass of the individual. X-rays differently. Computerised
12
 Defining the obesity problem 1

tomography (CT) is a medical and subcutaneous fat84 and along with


imaging method that produces a CT scans involve a relatively high
three-dimensional image of the inside radiation dose.84,85 A validation of QMR
of an individual by computerised suggests it may underestimate fat mass
digital geometry processing of a series and overestimate lean mass, with these
of two-dimensional X-ray images inaccuracies increasing with increasing
taken around a single axis of rotation. body mass. The chambers in which
Magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) participants sit in CT, MRI and QMR
uses powerful magnetic fields to machines are fixed in size and although
produce three-dimensional images of these can vary between machines it can
the inside of an individual that provide be difficult to fit large patients into them
a good contrast of the soft tissues of the and alternatives may need to be found.
body. Quantitative magnetic resonance CT scanning has been shown to
(QMR), also known as ECHO MRI, be an accurate and precise technique
is a relatively new technique that is for measuring soft tissue86 and allows
recognised as an important recent differentiation between visceral and
development in the measurement subcutaneous fat in a cross-section of
of body composition.61 QMR takes the body.85 MRI compares well with
advantage of the varying nuclear CT for the measurement of body fat,
magnetic resonance properties between allowing it to distinguish between
the nuclei of hydrogen atoms in tissues subcutaneous and visceral fat; both
with different chemical compositions. techniques have a similar accuracy in
This allows QMR to differentiate comparison with chemical analysis.
signals from hydrogen atoms in fat, Internal scans such as MRI are
lean tissue and free water leading to recommended for quantifying visceral
measures of fat mass, lean mass and fat accurately which the more common
total body water.83 methods of measurement are unable
Weaknesses and strengths of internal to do.76 MRI scans use magnetic and
scans All these forms of measurement radio waves, meaning that there is no
require very expensive machinery that exposure to ionising radiation such as
can only be used by extensively trained with X-rays and CTs.
operators and interpreters. They are
also very time consuming, in particular Body imaging
CT, MRI and QMR;83 it can therefore Body imaging involves the use of
be very difficult to undertake full body digital image plethysmography (DIP)
scans to allow a measure of total body in which photographs from digital
fat. Additionally DXA only measures cameras are converted into a measure of
in two dimensions, so cannot be used body volume and/or produce a three-
to differentiate directly between visceral dimensional (3-D) body scan which
13
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

attempts to record and measure body the body whilst cameras that are offset
shape from which measurements of from the laser source record the data.
body volume along with lengths and Triangulation methods are then used
circumferences can be extracted.87,88 to calculate the location of the point
We discuss the three main types of or line.87,88 Millimetre wave scanners
3-D body scanner: photogrammetric, are also known as ultrasonography or
laser and millimetre wave, all of which sonography, they use linear array radio
capture sophisticated raw data on body waves to detect body shape.87,88
surface topography. DIP and 3-D Weaknesses and strengths of
body scanning traditionally involve imaging 3-D scanners and DIP
booths, these can support cameras or acquisition share the principles of
light sensors surrounding a central capturing and analysing information
space in which the subject must stand about body shape and therefore share
in a specified stance, unaided, for the same criticisms that it is uncertain
the duration of the scan; this can last whether body shape can be used to classify
approximately ten seconds in 3-D obesity-related ill-health without taking
scanning to just under a minute for into account fat distribution or body
some DIP.89 In general the equipment composition. Equipment is expensive
is expensive and large but it can be for all forms of scanning, but although
mobile, while the cost per scan is low. the equipment for DIP acquisition is
DIP equipment is usually cheaper than less expensive than that used in 3-D
for the other 3-D scanners. body scanning the subjects must stand
For DIP, one front and one lateral still, unaided, for a longer period of
digital image of each subject are taken, time. DIP, photogrammetric and laser
the complete picture of the body is scanning require the subject to strip down
then used to produce an estimate to tight-fitting underwear or a bathing
of body volume known as dual suit and for weight measurements to be
digital photograph anthropometry.89 taken. Laser scanning is also most accurate
Photogrammetric scanners project if participants hold their breath after
uniform patterns of visible light on maximum expiration.90 Validation of laser
to the body allowing cameras in scanning against other methods of volume
the scanning booth to record the measurement have not supported their use
patterns, which have been distorted in predicting adiposity for adults91 with
by the contours of the body.88 no validation attempted with children.
The 3-D shape of the body is then It is also thought that the data collected
inferred using spectroscopy. Laser by millimetre wave scanners may be less
scanners operate on similar principles accurate compared with photogrammetric
as photogrammetric scanners in or laser scanners because water under the
projecting safe, invisible lasers on to skin causes distortion.87,88
14
 Defining the obesity problem 1

For some forms of scanning as this intimidating for younger participants.


process is almost entirely automated, Of the more common methods used
little operator skill is required after some to measure obesity, differences between
initial training. The final 3-D scanned individuals in growth rates by age, sex
images may also be used to obtain and ethnic group mean that the use of
circumference measures for a variety skinfold thickness44 and BIA92 should
of places on the body, permitting the be interpreted with caution, and it is
calculation of waist measurements and imperative that specialist equations are
ratios. One advantage of the millimetre used for converting measurements to
wave scanners over the other types estimates for body fat.
discussed here is that they can scan There are also no evidence-based
through clothing. thresholds for waist circumference
measurements in children. The
Thinking points relationship between waist circumference
and adiposity for children will change
1. What advantages do these
with age; therefore, it is not possible to
technical measures of obesity have
use a fixed set of thresholds as is done
over more common methods?
2. When should we use these more
with adults. Suggestions have been
technical measures of obesity? made that a waist-to-height ratio of 0.5
3. What attributes should future or greater may prove a useful threshold
technological measurements for increased disease risk for children;
include if they are to be used on however, more research is needed in this
a large-scale basis? area before this is accepted.72
4. MRI scans provide an accurate As with adults, BMI is the most
internal scan of an individual, commonly used measure for classifying
clearly demonstrating fat
weight status in children; however, its use
distribution. Why can we not use
in children is more complicated due to
this for every patient?
the changes in growth that occur during
the childhood years. To account for this,
Classifying obesity in children thresholds that vary by age and sex are
Much less validation has been performed created such that weight status can be
on the methods to classify weight status classified at different levels over the course
in children than in adults. Many of of childhood and between the sexes. These
the technical methods described above thresholds are commonly referred to as
are not suitable for use with children, child growth reference curves.
in particular those that require the There are a number of different child
participant to remain stationary for an growth references available and used
extended period of time, or those with internationally, derived from different
specialist equipment that may seem reference populations. By collecting
15
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

height and weight from reference a sample of 32,222 measurements from


populations, curves depicting how BMI 12 distinct surveys collected between
varies by age and sex are created. From 1978 and 1994.93,94 The BMI reference
this the distribution of the average BMI curves are part of the wider British 1990
by age for both sexes is created, and growth reference which also includes
weight status defined by deviance from height, weight, head circumference and
this mean either by standard deviation waist circumference;95 however, there
or by centile of the reference population. are currently no recommended centile
The choice of which growth curves to thresholds to grade children as being at
use is normally influenced by protocol increased risk from waist circumference
within that country, for example NICE and attempts to generate them are
recommend specific thresholds from thought to require validation.96
the UK90 growth curves; the CDC and The UK90 BMI reference is
NHMRC recommend the use of the available on printed growth charts, and
CDC charts; whereas the International depicts centiles evenly spaced at 2/3
Obesity Task Force (IOTF) has of a standard deviation. The centiles
developed charts for international use. It displayed on the UK90 growth charts
is crucial when using a growth reference are: 0.4th, 2nd, 9th, 25th, 50th, 75th,
curve to classify obesity in a sample or 91st, 98th and 99.6th. Different
population, that comparisons to this are thresholds are recommended for
only made using the same thresholds, population monitoring and clinical
as different thresholds will result in assessment; 85th and 95th centiles
different classifications and therefore determine overweight and obese status
prevalence. The most commonly used respectively for population monitoring
growth references are: whilst 91st and 98th are used for clinical
assessment (Table 1.4). This means only
1. British 1990 growth reference those for clinical assessment are depicted
(UK90) in the chart. NICE recommend tailored
NICE recommend using the British clinical intervention for children with
1990 growth reference (UK90) for a BMI at or above the 91st centile and
population monitoring and clinical assessment of comorbidity for those at
assessment in children aged four years or above the 98th centile.38
and over38 in the UK, although
other BMI thresholds can be used in 2. International Obesity Task
particular for international comparison Force (IOTF) cut-offs
of obesity prevalence. The IOTF thresholds have been
The UK90 BMI reference provides promoted for use internationally
centile curves for BMI for British children and are therefore most commonly
from birth to 23 years. They are based on used when making international
16
 Defining the obesity problem 1

Table 1.4 NICE thresholds for weight status in children using the UK90
growth charts

POPULATION MONITORING CLINICAL ASSESSMENT

Underweight 2nd centile 2nd centile


Overweight 85th centile 91st centile
Obese 95th centile 98th centile

comparisons, or when presenting from Brazil, Ghana, India, Norway,


findings to an international audience. Oman and the United States, totalling
They have been derived from 26,985 measurements of weight and
body mass index data from six large, length for those aged 0 to 24 months,
nationally representative, cross-sectional and weight and height for those aged
surveys from Brazil, Great Britain, 24 to 71 months.
Hong Kong, the Netherlands, Singapore WHO suggest a set of thresholds by
and the United States, and they cover sex based on single standard deviation
ages from 2 to 18 years. Each of these spacing. These thresholds include length
surveys consisted of more than 10,000 or height for age; weight for age; weight
subjects and covered ages of at least for length; weight for height and BMI
6 to 18 years. The total sample when for age.95
combining these surveys included
192,727 individuals aged 0 to 25 years. 4. World Health Organization
The International Obesity Task Force (WHO) 2007 growth reference
(IOTF) thresholds have been derived to The WHO 2007 growth reference
line up with the adult BMI thresholds for is recommended internationally
obesity and overweight at age 18 years, for children aged 5 to 19 years.
with underweight defined from equivalent These curves were derived from a
adult BMIs of 16, 17 and 18.5.95 combination of the USA National
Center for Health Statistics 1977
3. World Health Organization pooled growth data, and the WHO
(WHO) Child Growth Standard Multi-centre Growth Reference Study
The WHO Child Growth Standard is (MGRS) from Brazil, Ghana, Norway,
recommended for use internationally with India, Oman and USA.
children aged 0 to 5 years. These growth The WHO 2007 reference aligns
standards are also recommended for use in with the WHO Child Growth
the UK with children 4 years and under. Standards at age five years and is
The WHO Child Growth Standard available for height, weight and BMI
is based on an international sample for age.95
17
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

Thresholds for weight status are set


Box 1.4 Online information on
on standard deviation spacing from the
growth charts
average:
UK90 – www.healthforallchildren.
• Underweight  =  <−2 standard devia-
co.uk
tions (SD). UK WHO growth charts for 0 to
• Overweight  =  +1 SD to +2 SD. 4 years of age – http://www.rcpch.
• Obese > 2 SD. ac.uk/growthcharts
IOTF charts – www.bmj.com/­
United States Centers for Disease content/320/7244/1240.abstract
Control and Prevention (CDC) WHO Growth Standard – www.who.
2000 growth reference int/childgrowth/standards/
The CDC 2000 growth reference is WHO 2007 growth reference – www.
primarily used in the United States with who.int/growthref/en/
CDC 2000 growth reference – www.
children and young people aged 2 to
cdc.gov/growthcharts/cdc_
20 years; it is also recommended for
charts.htm
use in Australia by the NHMRC.75 It
was derived from a sample population
from the United States consisting of a During the first year of life adiposity
number of national health examination increases rapidly due to the growth in the
surveys with supplementary information size of the adipose cells, otherwise known
collected from birth certificates and as adipocytes, which then diminish over
hospital data on child birth weight, the next year or two.97–99 Over this period
length, and head circumference. of decreasing adiposity, although the
The CDC 2000 growth reference adipose cell number remains stable, body
defines children at risk of overweight height continues to increase which leads
and obesity if their BMI exceeds to an apparent slimming of the child.
the 85th and 95th centiles for most After a number of years during which
routine assessments. The 90th and there is stability in the number of adipose
97th centiles are used for special health cells, there is a second period of rapid
care requirements. The third and fifth growth in body fat, commonly starting
centiles are used to define underweight at around 6 years of age. The minimum
status.95 See Box 1.4 for online value of BMI throughout a child's
information on growth charts. development, due to the increase in
height and stability in adiposity, occurs
Adiposity rebound just before this second period of growth,
The development of adipose tissue known as the adiposity rebound, a phrase
within an individual commonly first coined in 1984.99
comprises of a number of phases, one of From this moment, both the size
which is known as the adiposity rebound. and number of adipocytes increase,97–99
18
 Defining the obesity problem 1

leading to an increase in BMI due to Identifying early rebound in


an accelerated deposition of weight young children may, therefore, be
which is driven by more rapid used to identify children at risk,
accumulation of body fat rather than enabling strategies to be put in place
lean tissue mass100,101 and no slowing that can limit excessive fat gain and
of height gain.100,102 Growth reference the later development of obesity.107
curves demonstrate this event through Adiposity rebound has not been
an increase after the lowest point on accepted by all as a clinical tool.100
the curve,99,103–106 suggesting an age at The mechanisms underlying the
which the average child will undergo increased risks associated with an
adiposity rebound with children early adiposity rebound have yet to be
undergoing an early rebound thought determined100,116 and the time frame
to be at a greater risk of future obesity required for a measurement of rebound
and obesity-related ill health.99 that is predictive is not higher than
The timing of adiposity rebound in that of a single BMI measurement
children has therefore been suggested by in mid-childhood.100,102 However,
some as a means by which to identify waiting until a child is 7 or 8 years
children at risk from obesity-related ill of age if they have demonstrated
health. It has been proposed that an early a very early rebound could miss a
age at adiposity rebound predicts later valuable opportunity to intervene.100
fatness, as it identifies children whose Certainly regardless of the clinical
body mass index centile is high and/or applicability of adiposity rebound,
crossing upward, with children with an improving our understanding of what
early rebound having a greater risk of later controls the dynamics of childhood
obesity.100,107–113 Further evidence suggests body composition and mechanisms
that it is associated with a higher risk of that delay adiposity rebound could
obesity-related future ill health including help prevent obesity by expanding
diabetes100,114,115 and elevated blood our ability to manage the increasing
pressure, although it should be recognised problem of fat gain during childhood
that this is not a universal finding.100 growth.100,117

Thinking points
1. Why are growth charts used with children instead of general cut-offs as with
adults?
2. How will you decide which growth chart to use for classifying obesity in children?
3. Why is it challenging to use the same growth curves with children from
different ethnic backgrounds?
4. What other factors should you consider when assessing obesity risk in children?

19
Public Health Mini-Guides: Obesity

Summary points
• Obesity is a medical condition characterised by excess body fat.
• The WHO recommends the measuring of individuals to assess individual risk of
obesity.
• Screening programmes are accompanied by an explicit intention to treat
overweight and obese individuals.
• Surveillance programmes are used to measure prevalence and monitor trends
over time.
• BMI is a quick and easy tool for classifying obesity risk in large numbers of
individuals and a high BMI has a proven link to ill health.
• BMI does not distinguish between lean and adipose tissue, nor does it provide
an estimation of abdominal adipose tissue.
• It is recommended that circumference measurements are used alongside BMI
but not instead of.
• Technical measures may provide more accurate measurement of body fat, but
are more expensive, require specialist training and take more time than more
common measures.
• Internal scans, in particular MRI, provide measures of fat distribution that can
identify levels of visceral fat.
• Using BMI to classify weight status for children requires the use of growth
curves which make adjustments for sex and age.
• There are a number of recommended growth charts, with their use determined
by either the protocol within countries or the aims of any analysis.
• The absence of age- and sex-specific thresholds for circumference measures
amongst children makes it difficult to use these measures for these age groups.
• Early adiposity rebound may be used to identify children at risk from future
obesity-related ill health.

Web pages and resources Further reading


Australian Government National Health and 1. WHO. Obesity and Overweight. Factsheet
Medical Research Council (NHMRC). No. 311, Geneva: World Health Organization;
www.nhmrc.gov.au/research/obesity. Last updated 2011. http://www.who.int/
Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). mediacentre/factsheets/fs311/en/.
www.cdc.gov/obesity/. This factsheet produced by the WHO introduces the
NHS choices. concepts and definitions of overweight and obesity.
www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Obesity/Pages/ It goes on to describe recommended measurements,
Introduction.aspx. also discussing some of the consequences and causes
The WHO regional office for Europe. of obesity.
www.euro.who.int/en/what-we-do/health-topics/ 2. Browning, et al. Measuring abdominal adipose
noncommunicable-diseases/obesity. tissue: comparison of simpler methods
The Public Health England Obesity Knowledge with MRI. Obes Facts 2011;4:9–15. http://
and Intelligence team. content.karger.com/produktedb/produkte.
www.noo.org.uk/. asp?DOI=000324546&typ=pdf.

20
 Defining the obesity problem 1

This is a cross-sectional study that compares the http://www.noo.org.uk/uploads/doc/


measurement of visceral and total abdominal vid_11762_classifyingBMIinchildren.pdf.
adipose tissue by magnetic resonance imaging This briefing paper produced by NOO
(MRI) against a range of ‘simpler’ techniques: provides a simple guide to how body mass
BMI, waist circumference (WC), bioelectrical index (BMI) can be used to assess the
impedance (BIA) devices and dual X-ray weight status of children. It describes the
absorptiometry (DXA). different growth curves that can be used to
3. NOO. A Simple Guide to Classifying Body interpret BMI in children and young people,
Mass Index in Children. Oxford: National explains how they differ, and where they are
Obesity Observatory; 2011. commonly used.

*To view the full reference list for the book, click here http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/
B978-0-7020-4634-6.09992-1
21
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
potted hare.
A large one is generally chosen for this purpose, although you run
the risk of its not being tender; but since flavour is the essential here,
we must guard against the toughness by hanging it with the skin on,
and not opened for a fortnight if it came to hand quite fresh killed. A
stuffing should be made of
Best salt butter ½ lb.
Grated bread. 1 lb.
Thyme, in powder ½ oz.
Marjorum, in powder ½ oz.
Lemon thyme, in powder ¾ oz.
and the hare stuffed and basted as if for the parlour or dining-room.
Here, before the meat is cold, it should be separated from the bones
and well picked over, then, with clarified butter at hand, it must be
pounded well till of a nice stiff paste, and then seasoned with
Mace, in powder ½ oz.
Cloves, in powder ¾ oz.
Nutmegs, in powder ¾ oz.
Red currant jelly,
liquefied 1 teacupful
Port wine 1 teacupful
When these are well blended with the mass, you may fill pots and
jars, and proceed as usual with clarified butter to cover, and writing
paper over the pots.

potted moor game.


It is absolutely necessary that the greatest nicety prevails in the
picking and dressing of these species of game, and we shall leave
that to the poulterer and the cook, and only offer our advice as to the
different ingredients most acceptable as seasonings. Moor game will
bear hanging longer, and must not be overdone with fire, as they
possess a flavour well worth keeping. Season your birds with
Cloves 1 oz.
Mace ½ oz.
Cayenne ¾ oz.
Table salt 6 oz.
Bay leaves 2 oz.
and roast them a nice brown. Their heads, which in general are
made to be seen protruding, should be glazed, and the pots just
nicely adapted to contain one bird each. Clarified butter must wholly
cover the body and half an inch above. Writing paper, pasted on,
covers all.

potted snipes and woodcocks.


We see so many of these delicious birds now-a-days, particularly
at our seaports opposite to the Continent, that we are reminded of
the great gratifications of former days, when such things were not
purchaseable, as to induce us to embrace the opportunity of
preserving some. The trails must not be drawn, but the picking and
dressing must be done effectually. Affix the bills to the thighs by
skewers, the feet being brought on to the breasts, season inside
rather highly with
Cayenne pepper ½ oz.
Table salt 6 oz.
Mace 1 oz.
Bay leaves 2 oz.
Place your birds in a straight-sided jar, with the best salt butter well
washed, and bake slowly until done enough. Then pour off the
butter, put the birds singly into pots, and next day clarify the used
butter, adding more. Cover well and finish with writing paper pasted
over.

potted trout.
Where the natural flavour of this delicious fish can be retained it is
worth while potting them, and vice versâ. (See Note, No. 9.) From
half a pound to one and a half pounds weight each fish, will be the
best size for this preparation. Their freshness is insisted upon, or
better to let them alone. Scale your fish, cut off the heads, tails, and
fins, open them at the belly and wipe out clean, scatter good moist
sugar over the inside of the fish, and bring the sides of them together
again, pack them the backs downwards side by side, and let them lie
till the next day. Then take
Bay leaves, in fine powder 1 oz.
Laurel leaves, shred 1 oz.
Mace, in fine powder ½ oz.
Nutmeg, in fine powder 1 oz.
White pepper, in fine
powder 2 oz.
Table salt, in fine powder 6 oz.
Mix these well together and season the fish plentifully inside and out
with it, lay them flat in a dish, cover with a coarse meal crust and
bake them in a slow oven. Pour off the gravy while warm and let the
fish remain till next day. Then cut your trout into pieces adapted to
your pots, fill them, and pour clarified butter over to cover well, and if
for long keeping at least an half inch thick above the fish. Next day, if
all seem firm and safe, paste writing paper over and put away in a
cool airy room.

potted eels.
Provided the fish are fresh we shall not refuse any size for this
purpose, from nine ounces to a pound each. They must be divested
of their skins, heads, tails, and fins, and opened at the belly from the
head down to the tail end. Clear all rubbish away, and at once wash
them a minute or two in salt and water, and dry with cloths. Dust best
flour over them and put them away, while you prepare a pickle of
Bay leaves, shred 1½ oz.
Laurel leaves 1½ oz.
Marjorum 2 oz.
Thyme 1 oz.
For ten pounds of eels:
Bay salt or rock 1½ lb.
Coarse sugar ½ lb.
Porter ½ pint
Beer ½ pint
Lay your fish in a deep dish, previously cut into pieces three inches
long, or less, according to shape of your pots; with alternate layers of
seasoning, cover all close down and let lie twenty-four hours, and if
thick somewhat longer. When all are pickled, wash them through salt
and water, dry with cloths, and dusting them with flour, fry them in
boiling olive oil a nice brown colour, and put them as done to drain
and get cold. Next day lay a pinch of crushed or shred chillies inside
each piece of fish, and lay them into white pots, cover well with best
butter clarified, and all over the tops thickly. Replenish next day if
any has been absorbed, and make all safe with bladder. These will
be much liked with wine.

potted shrimps.
Whether you are about to pot a large or a small quantity of
shrimps, and wish them to be “got up” in good style, and calculated
to keep well, I must desire you to boil your own fish at home. This
done, get them picked quickly as possible, then examine well that no
skins or filaments remain, spread them out in clean dishes, and
evaporate the moisture by a cool oven and attention, and will be only
just accomplished when no two fish are found sticking together.
Season them according to your own taste with this mixture:
Mace, in finest powder ½ oz.
Cloves, in finest powder 1 oz.
Table salt, in finest 1 lb.
powder
Sifted loaf sugar 6 oz.
White pepper 2 oz.
All these must have been well dried, mixed, and sifted finely. Your
pots must be particularly clean and dry, and the sooner they are filled
with the fish the better. Press down the fish in the pots and dry them
in a cool oven, but not to brown them. Set them aside to get cold, not
damp, and cover well with best butter nicely clarified, and paste
writing paper over the tops of the pots.

potted beef, as hare.


Get half a dozen pounds of fine beef skirts, hang them up in dry
air for a week, or in hard weather for ten days, then beat them well
with a paste pin, take off the skin and lay them down in a deep
earthen pot, without cutting, and rub them well on both sides with
Jamaica pepper 1 oz.
Eschalots, minced ½ oz.
Thyme, in powder 1 oz.
Marjorum, in powder 1 oz.
Coarse sugar 1 lb.
Bay salt 1 lb.
and let them lie six days, being turned every day. Then take them up,
wipe dry, and cut into pieces; lay them in a deep straight-sided jar,
with a pound of the best salt butter dispersed in little lumps here and
there between them, subject this to the action of a water bath until
the meat is tender. You can raise the heat of the boiling water which
surrounds the jar, by adding plenty of salt to it, by eight deg. Fahr.
Then while hot pour off the gravy and set the meat in a dish to go
cold. Next day take off the butter and fat from the gravy, cut your
meat into dice, take out the films and strings, and with the butter and
pounding bring the meat into a nice plastic consistence. If your hare
is to be very highly flavoured you may add more thyme and cayenne.
Now fill your pots and cover well with clarified butter, and again with
wetted bladder.

potted neats’ tongues.


Unless the tongues were cured according to your own receipts,
you cannot tell how to treat them for potting. I shall therefore
consider that you have been under the necessity of purchasing some
out of the pickle tub of the butcher, which, generally speaking, are
not remarkable for excellence as regards flavour, and please
observe that neats’ tongues have no piquant flavour of their own, it is
always created by the curer. Take two tongues of seven or eight
pounds each, boil them as usual, and rather underdone; take off the
peel and extra root, gullet, and two and a half inches of the extreme
tip, cut them into slices one inch thick, and lay them down in a jar,
with
Molasses 1 lb.
Jamaica pepper 1 oz.
Garlic, minced ½ oz.
Shalots, minced 1 oz.
Bay leaves, in powder 1 oz.
Four laurel leaves
Bay salt ½ lb.
Porter, or old ale ½ pint
These must be simmered half an hour and put into the jar hot, then
cover close with paper and let remain in a week; then take up and
wash the meat quickly with water half a pint, and vinegar half a pint,
cut then into dice and pound them in a mortar with fresh butter till
you have got a nice, smooth, thick paste. Fill clean dry pots and jars,
and leave them in a cool oven for two hours. Then press the meat
down well, and next day cover with plenty of best clarified butter and
tie white paper over. This is a quick method of getting a very
excellent article of its sort, and as the same ingredients would
perfect three or four tongues more in succession, it is economical in
the end.
potted beef’s heart.
You may not expect any thing particularly good as a relish from so
common an article as a beef’s heart, but I often think there is more
credit due to a person for producing a choice relish from what is
considered an inferior base, than in spoiling an expensive natural
production in the attempt to improve it. In this case I fear not to give
satisfaction. The expense is really trifling, and the trouble reducible
to a pleasure. Get a fine ox heart, with plenty of fat on it, hang it up a
dry room, but not in an air current, for a week; then empty the
cavities of the clotted blood, cut out the deaf ears as low down
internally as your knife will reach, cut open a communication
between the upper cavities and the lower ones, but on no account
penetrate through the outside bark of the heart. Tie good string
round and about it, so that the meat may be hung in various ways
when needed, and rub it well for a quarter of an hour with the
following:
West India molasses ¼ lb.
Strong vinegar ½ pint
Eschalots, minced 2 oz.
simmered for twenty minutes and let go cold. Hang up the heart
point downwards, and fill the holes with the mixture. Rub it daily for a
week, keeping the cavities filled. Then boil up the pickle, adding
Jamaica pepper,
ground 1½ oz.
Garlic, minced 1 oz.
Bay salt 3 oz.
Black pepper, ground 1 oz.
and for another week rub the heart daily and keep the holes filled.
Then boil up again, adding
Bay leaves, in powder 1 oz.
Laurel leaves, shred ½ oz.
Bay salt 4 oz.
Water 1 quart
and rub with this once. Take down the meat and let it lie on its broad
end in a deep dish, and baste it every morning for a week longer.
Then take it up, wipe it dry and hang it in a current of air for twenty-
four hours, and then rub it twice daily for a week with
Pure olive oil ½ pint
Salpetre, in powder ¾ oz.
Bay salt, in powder 2 oz.
Now wipe it dry again, put it in a deep pot, tie paper over, and bake it
in a slow oven until done enough. When cold cut it open lengthwise,
select all the tender parts, pick them well from strings and films, and,
cutting it into dice, pound it in a mortar into a nice smooth pulpy
consistence. Consider now that it may be required to be kept, and if
it needs salt add some, but unless you are in favour of any peculiar
taste, I think we shall need no addition. Press the meat into pots and
jars, cover with clarified butter, and tie paper over. If kept three
months, or twelve months, I am pretty sure of your approbation.

potted venison.
Get a nice fat plump shoulder of mutton, cut it open three inches
above the knuckle and also for three or four inches on the under
side, and down to the bone, and filling these trenches with
Twelve eschalots, minced
Port wine lees ¼ pint
Thyme, in powder 1 oz.
Marjorum, in powder ¾ oz.
sew the skin over, and hang the meat in a dry room to season for
nine days; then rub it all over with
Bay salt, in powder 1 lb.
Coarse sugar ¼ lb.
Allspice, ground 1 oz.
Nutmeg, ground 1 oz.
and let it lie, being turned and rubbed daily, for a week longer. It may
now be baked, and when cold cut up in the way best calculated for
embracing the tenderness of the joint. The lean should be pounded
by itself, picking out all sinews and strings, and the fat, or such parts
as will help to make the mass smooth; fresh butter must also be
used if required, and when all is in readiness you may season it to
your taste with
Cloves, in fine powder 1 oz.
Mace, in fine powder ½ oz.
Cayenne, in fine
powder ¼ oz.
Bay leaf, in fine
powder 1 oz.
and adding salt as you relish, remembering that potted delicacies if
seeming too salt at first lose that predominance by keeping, and it is
the same, but in a less degree, with some of the finer spices. Fill
your pots and little jars, and cover with clarified butter and paper, and
keep them in a dry cool room, and where there is nothing to be
feared from damps.

marinated veal.
Beat a fine large cutlet with the rolling-pin, put butter, eggs, and
flour into a pan, and when hot lay in the cutlet and let it stew; the
mixture will penetrate to the very inside, and your olfactory sense is
delighted and palate refreshed with veal, not insipid as veal generally
is, but with a morsel moist with odoriferous juices. When cold it may
be cut in pieces, placed in oblong pots, and covered with the best
olive oil. It must be eaten with tomato sauce.

another method.
Chop a pound and a half of veal fine, with half a pound of lean
ham and half a pound of sweet fat bacon to be minced along with
Two eschalots
Green parsley 1 teaspoonful
Mushrooms 1 teaspoonful
Marjorum, in powder 1 teaspoonful
Thyme, in powder 1 teaspoonful
Mace, in fine powder ¼ oz.
Cayenne pepper ½ teaspoonful
Salt 1 dessert-spoonful
Put these into a mortar after they have been well mixed, and bring
the whole to a nice thick plastic consistence; put it into a mould lined
with thin slices of fat bacon, and let it remain pressed down heavily
for a week; then take it out, cut it into rather thick slices, which fry in
boiling olive oil until done through, and of a nice brown colour, set
them aside, and when cold put them into proper pots and fill up with
best olive oil; tie bladder over the pots and keep in a dry cool room.

marinated salmon roes.


As soon as they are taken out of the fish wash them in salt and
water for a minute, and dry them well with cloths. Smear the inside of
an earthenware jar with sweet lard, put in the roes, tie leather over
and subject them to the action of a water bath for three hours, then
let them cool and divide them, pick out all the films and specks, and
mix the following with the mass according to your taste:
Mace, in finest powder ¼ oz.
Nutmeg, in finest powder ½ oz.
Bay leaf, in finest powder ½ oz.
Table salt, in finest powder 4 oz.
Cayenne pepper, in finest
powder ¼ oz.
Dry small white jars and pots and fill them to within three quarters of
an inch of the top with the fish, press closely down, set the jars near
the door of an oven for twenty minutes, and when cold fill up with
olive oil, which replenish the next day, and then tie bladder closely
over. Keep in a cool dry room.

essence of lobsters.
Boil six pounds of live lobsters thus: Throw them into salt and
water and with a brush clean them well, tie up the tails, and pop
them into a pan of boiling water, in which a good handful of salt and
half an ounce of saltpetre have been dissolved; then set them to
cool, take out all the meat and coral, which, when it has been
cleared of the skins, chop up into dice, and set it on the fire in a
clean pan, with a pound and a half of bay salt and two quarts of
water, and let it simmer twenty minutes. Then take out the fish,
pound it in a mortar with half an ounce of cayenne pepper and the
same quantity of finely powdered mace, bring it to a nice paste with
some of the water last used, and put it again into the pan with the
remainder of the water and let it simmer half an hour. When cold, or
nearly so, fill your clean glass jars with it, cork them well and seal
them.

essence of shrimps.
Put a gallon of live shrimps into a pan of three quarts of boiling
water, in which a pound and half of bay salt or rock salt has been
dissolved, skim them well and boil them ten minutes, strain off the
water through a sieve, and while the shrimps are warm pull off the
heads, which with unsound ones put aside. Boil one pound of bay
salt with two quarts of water ten minutes, skimming it well, and set it
by to get cold. Pound the shrimps in a mortar with their skins to a
paste, using a little of the last water, and when it has been well
worked add the remainder of the water, boiled and strained, with this
mixture:
Red sanders, in 1 oz.
powder
Cayenne pepper ½ oz.
Mace, bruised ½ oz.
Bay leaf, shred ¾ oz.
Two anchovies, shred
Pass the pulp through a sieve, and, when cold, bottle it, corking and
sealing securely.

essence of anchovies.
Boil fourteen pounds of Gorgona fish for ten or twelve minutes
with ten quarts of river water, rub the fish through a sieve, saving the
water to again boil any of the fish that will not pass. When the bones
are all dissolved, strain, add the water to the pulp of the fish along
with
Bay salt 1 lb.
Wheaten flour 1 lb.
Cayenne pepper ½ oz.
Mushroom catsup ¼ pint.
Put it into bottles, which cork and seal well.

tomato paste.
Scald and peel twenty large fine tomatoes, put them in a stone jar,
tie paper over, and leave them in a warm oven for an hour. Take off
the liquid that floats on the top and press the fruit through a sieve.
Add to every quart of the tomatoes half a pint of good sharp vinegar,
and seasoning to your taste with this mixture, viz.
Bay salt 6 oz.
Mace, in powder ¾ oz.
Cayenne, in powder ½ oz.
Cloves, in powder 1½ oz.
Bay leaf 1 oz.
Put it into a clean saucepan, stir it continually from the bottom for
three hours and until you have got a smooth nice thick mass, which
when cold put into jars and cover well with bladder. It will be found of
essential service in seasoning soups, &c., when tomatoes are not to
be had.

tomato catsup.
Take twenty fine tomatoes and scatter over them, upon a dish,
twelve ounces of table salt, so let them lie three days. Next boil
together
Mace, bruised ¼ oz.
Cloves, bruised ¼ oz.
Black pepper, bruised ½ oz.
Jamaica pepper, bruised ½ oz.
Long pepper, bruised ½ oz.
Ginger ½ oz.
Mustard seed, bruised ¾ oz.
Two dozen capsicums
Six heads of garlic
One stick of horseradish, sliced
Best London pickling vinegar 1 quart
The boiling and skimming should continue half an hour. Peel the
fruit, add them, and boil together half an hour longer; strain through a
sieve and bottle it the next day; cork well and seal. This is an
excellent receipt, as will be proved by a trial. The catsup should be
six months old to attain its prime.

bengal chetna
Sub-acid apples, pared and
cored ½ lb.
Malaga raisins, stoned ¼ lb.
Coarse sugar ¼ lb.
Bay salt 2 oz.
Best ginger, powdered 2 oz.
Cayenne pepper 2 oz.
Eschalots, minced 1 oz.
Best pickling vinegar, as much as required.
Pound these ingredients well together, adding the vinegar by
degrees until it comes to a smooth pulp. Let this remain six hours
covered up. If the vinegar has risen to the top clear, it must be further
blended with the spices by well rubbing with some surface of wood,
for example, a potato masher; then add the whole of the vinegar,
pass all through a sieve and bottle it, corking and sealing well.

an excellent fish sauce.


Take two dozen genuine anchovies, neither wipe nor wash them,
and add them to the following:
Eschalots, peeled and sliced 1 dozen
Fresh horseradish, scraped
finely 3 tablespoonfuls
Mace, beaten 2 drachms
Cloves, beaten 2 drachms
Two lemons, sliced
Anchovy liquor 8 oz.
Rhenish wine 1 quart
Water 1 pint
Boil all together until reduced to one quart, skim it well, and
afterwards strain through a sieve. When cold bottle it, and seal the
corks.

a provocative.
Black pepper, ground 2 oz.
Bay or rock salt 2 oz.
Ground allspice 1 oz.
Horseradish, scraped 1 oz.
Eschalots, minced 1 oz.
Walnut pickle, or
mushroom catsup 1 quart
Infuse for fourteen days in a gentle heat, strain and bottle for use,
corking and sealing well.

french sausage spice.


Black pepper, finely powdered 5 lb.
Mace, finely powdered 3 oz.
Cloves, finely powdered 1½ lb.
Nutmeg, finely powdered 1½ lb.
Jamaica ginger, finely
powdered 2½ lb.
Coriander seeds, finely
powdered ¾ lb.
Aniseeds, finely powdered ¾ lb.
Mix them thoroughly, sift, bottle, cork well and seal.
to prepare syrup for preserving fruit.
The best refined sugar, which will require no clarifying, should
invariably be used for this process; but when inferior qualities are
chosen they must be prepared in the following manner: To clarify six
pounds of sugar, break it into large lumps, put it into a preserving
pan, and pour upon it five pints of cold spring water; in another pint
of water beat up lightly the white of one small egg, but not frothing it
very much, add it to the sugar, and stir it to mix it well with the whole.
Set the pan over a gentle fire, when the sugar is nearly dissolved,
and let the scum rise without being disturbed; when the syrup has
boiled five minutes, take it off the fire, let it stand two minutes, and
then skim it very clean, let it boil again, then throw in half a cupful of
cold water, which will bring the remainder of the scum to the surface;
skim it until it is perfectly clear, strain it through a thin cloth, and it will
be ready for use, or for further boiling.
All unripe fruit must be rendered perfectly tender by gentle
scalding, before it is put into syrup, or it will not imbibe the sugar;
and the syrup must be thin when it is first added to it, and be
thickened afterwards by frequent boiling, or with sugar added, or the
fruit will shrivel instead of becoming plump and clear. A pound of
sugar boiled for ten minutes in a pint of water will make a very light
syrup, but it will gradually thicken if rapidly boiled in an uncovered
pan. Two pounds of sugar to the pint of water will become thick with
little more than half an hour’s boiling, or with three or four separate
boilings of eight or ten minutes each; if too much reduced it will
candy, instead of remaining liquid.

west india preserved green ginger.


Take half a dozen middle-sized cucumbers, cut them open
lengthwise, take out the seeds, cut off the pulpy part, and soak them
three days in strong salt and water, and weighted down so as to be
completely submerged. Next, take them out and wash them in cold
water, and put them, with plenty of cold water, into a pan on the fire,
and when it comes to the boiling point, take them off, pour off the
water, and add more cold water with a quarter of an ounce of
bicarbonate of potash to each quart of water. Now boil them half an
hour, and set by in the water they were boiled in till next day. Then
take out, and set them to drain on a sieve, covered with a cloth.
Then take
Best ginger, bruised 10 oz.
Best cloves, bruised 1 oz.
Cinnamon, bruised ½ oz.
Rain or soft water 5 pints
which boil five minutes, then simmer for half an hour, in a closely
covered pan, strain the liquor through a flannel bag, and add to each
pint of it one and a quarter pounds of sifted loaf-sugar, making a
syrup, which must be clarified with the white of egg. Boil this, and
skim with care till no scum rises. Peel the cucumbers, and cut them
in pieces the size and shape of a pigeon’s egg. Simmer two ounces
more of bruised ginger, tied in a piece of muslin, in a pint of water, till
reduced to a moderate sized teacupful, and add it to the syrup. Take
the ginger you first used, put it with the syrup and cucumbers into a
clean pan, and boil for ten minutes. Empty all into a clean
earthenware jar, and let stand two days and nights. Next pour off the
syrup, boil it five minutes, taking off the scum if any arises; then add
the cucumbers, boil five minutes longer, and put all back again into
the jar, and let stand three days. Return the syrup and the whole of
the ginger tied in muslin into the pan, and boil until the syrup adheres
to the spoon. Then put in the cucumbers, and boil, a quarter of an
hour, when return all into the jar, and let remain twenty-four hours
uncovered. Then tie wet bladder well over, and in a month it may be
removed into small wide-mouthed glass jars and covered with
bladder, and green paper over that. This, as dessert, is an excellent
stomachic, assisting digestion in weak habits.

currants for tarts.


The fruit for these purposes should be gathered on fine days, and
only the best used for preserves. Press the juice from the rejected
currants, and strain it clear. To each pound of fruit you must allow a
pound of the best refined sugar, and make a fine clear syrup of the
currant juice and sugar. When it is cold put in your fruit and let it boil
until beautifully clear, when you may put it into pots and glass jars,
covering with brandy paper and wetted bladder.

tomatoes.
The fruit here must be taken before it is quite ripe, and if not
having lost its green hue quite may be preferable; and for three
pounds of fruit take off the thin yellow rinds of two large lemons, and,
squeezing out the juice, strain it and put it aside for awhile. Put the
juice with the thin rinds into a clean saucepan, with two or three
blades of mace, a few peach leaves and a dessert-spoonful of ginger
sliced thinly; cover the tomatoes with water barely, and set the pan
on a clear fire to simmer half an hour. Then take out the fruit carefully
with a spoon and set them on a sieve to cool. Add to the water they
were simmered in sugar sufficient to make a thin syrup, which must
be poured over the fruit, when placed in a deep dish, boiling hot, and
so leave them for four or five days. Then pour out the syrup into a
pan, and add sugar to make a strong syrup, into which you may put
the tomatoes and simmer them gently until the syrup has entered
fully into them. Remove them now from the fire and let them remain
unmolested for four or five days longer. If the syrup has now not
attained a proper consistence, you may add sugar, and boil until you
have got the desired end. Pour now on the fruit while it is hot, and if
when cold you are satisfied, make all safe with bladder and leather,
and keep in a cool and airy room.

cucumbers.
This is an elegant preserve if well managed. Take two dozen of
the finest, largest, and most clear cucumbers, and without seeds.
Cut them into pieces, take out the very soft part of the insides, put
them into a jar with strong salt and water to cover them, and set
them in a warm situation until they become yellow. Now wash them
well, and set them in a pan of water, with plenty of fresh cabbage
leaves, on the fire, close the lid of the pan, so that no steam can
escape, and simmer them until of a fine green colour. If you have not
yet attained your object, change the water and leaves, and simmer
them again. Then take out the fruit, set it on a sieve to cool, and then
into pure cold water for three or four days, changing the water daily.
Put into a clean pan four pounds of the best refined sugar, with one
quart of pure spring water, boil and skim it well. Then add the rinds of
four large lemons pared very thin, and three ounces of the best
ginger sliced, and boil all together ten minutes. Take it then off the
fire, and when cool put in the cucumbers, and boil them until they are
perfectly clear. If their appearance does not fully satisfy you, set
them aside for forty-eight hours, and then repeat the boiling, and
putting your cucumbers into your pots and glasses, pour the syrup
over them, and secure them from the air with bladder and leather, or
with paper over the glasses.

green-gage plums.
From a peck of this rich fruit, pick out all the largest and most
clear. Put a handful of vine leaves into a pan, then a layer of the fruit,
and so on, in alternate layers, to the end; fill the vessel up with water,
put them over a moderate fire, and let them get thoroughly hot
through, skim them well, pour off the water, and put the plums on a
sieve to cool. Now take off the peels carefully, and, as you proceed,
put them into the water they were heated in, with fresh leaves, and
let them boil three minutes, preventing the escape of the steam as
much as you possibly can. Let them remain at a moderate distance
from the fire seven or eight hours, or until they become green; then
put them on a sieve to drain, and then boil them up in a good clear
syrup once a day, for three successive days. Then take them up, and
place in clean dry glasses and jars; skim the syrup thoroughly over
the fire, and, when nearly cold, pour it over the plums, put brandy
paper upon them, and cover with bladder. You will have an elegant
and very rich preserve.
peaches and nectarines.
Before they are ripe, take the choicest of these fruit, rub off the
down from them with soft old linen, and divide the skin at the seam
with a sharp pointed knife. Put them into a clean jar, cover them with
French brandy, and let them remain so for ten days; then take them
out, and having ready a fine clear syrup, put the fruit into a pan with
it, and boil them until they are beautifully bright and clear. When cold,
take out the fruit, place it in glasses and jars, and fill up with the
syrup nearly cold. Lay brandy paper over and cover with bladder.

lemons preserved.
Take two dozen fine lemons, wipe them well, and pare off the
yellow rind very thin. Cut out a piece of the rind at the blossom end,
and take out the whole of the pulp and seeds. Rub the lemons over
with fine bay salt, and lay them in cold water, so let them lie for a
week, quite covered, and then boil them in fresh salt and water
twenty minutes. Now prepare a syrup of one pound of the best loaf
sugar to a quart of water, and well skimmed, and into which put the
lemons, and boil them five or six minutes for four days successively,
then place them in a jar and let them stand six weeks, and all the
time well covered with the syrup. Now make a clear, thick, fine syrup
of the best refined sugar and water, put the lemons into it, and boil
them gently for ten minutes; then put them away, and in twenty-four
hours boil them again at short intervals, until they look plump and
clear. Now lay them in jars and glasses, and pour the syrup over
them cold; cover with brandy-paper and tie bladder over them.

apricots.
Take two dozen of the largest and soundest apricots when they
are just fully ripe, wipe them clear from gum and other filth; push the
stones out through the stalk ends with a blunted piece of wood;
weigh the fruit now, and for each pound of apricots, allow one pound
of the best refined sugar, the half of which, when reduced to a
powder and sifted, you must strew over the fruit, and let them remain

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