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The Endangered Species Act and Federalism
To my grandfather, by whose side I flushed my first covey of quail and
have been in love with wildlife ever since.
– Kaush Arha

To Eliza, Maggie, and Hobie, and all future generations.

– Buzz Thompson
 The Endangered Species
Act and Federalism
Effective Conservation through
Greater State Commitment

EDITED BY

Kaush Arha and Barton H. Thompson, Jr.

London • New York

First published 2011 by RFF Press

2 Park Square, Milton Park, Abingdon, Oxon OX14 4RN

Simultaneously published in the USA and Canada

by RFF Press
711 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017

RFF Press is an imprint of the Taylor & Francis Group, an informa business

© 2011Kaush Arha and Barton H. Thompson, Jr.

The right of the editors to be identified as the authors of the editorial material, and of the authors for
their individual chapters, has been asserted in accordance with sections 77 and 78 of the Copyright,
Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by
any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying
and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from
the publishers.

Trademark notice: Product or corporate names may be trademarks or registered trademarks, and are
used only for identification and explanation without intent to infringe.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

The Endangered Species Act and federalism : effective conservation through greater state commit-
ment / edited by Kaush Arha and Barton H. Thompson, Jr.
   p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-933115-94-8 (hb : alk. paper) 1. United States. Endangered Species Act of 1973. 2.
Endangered species—Law and legislation—United States. 3. Endangered species—Government pol-
icy—United States—States. 4. Wildlife conservation—Law and legislation—United States. 5. Wildlife
conservation—Government policy—United States—States. 6. Federal government—United States. 7.
Intergovernmental cooperation—United States. I. Arha, Kaush. II. Thompson, Barton H.
KF5640.E4816 2011
346.7304’69522—dc22
                   2011000739

ISBN: 978-1-93311-594-8 (hbk)

Typeset in Myriad Pro by JS Typesetting Ltd, Porthcawl, Mid Glamorgan

Cover design by Chris Phillips
Printed and bound in the UK by CPI Antony Rowe.
The paper used is FSC certified.

The findings, interpretations, and conclusions offered in RFF Press publications are those of the
authors. They do not necessarily represent the views of Resources for the Future, its directors, or
its officers. Similarly, any geographic boundaries and titles depicted in RFF Press publications do
not imply any judgment or opinion about the legal status of a territory on the part of Resources
for the Future.
 About Resources for the Future
and RFF Press
Resources for the Future (RFF) improves environmental and natural resource
policymaking worldwide through independent social science research of the
highest caliber. Founded in 1952, RFF pioneered the application of economics
as a tool for developing more effective policy about the use and conservation
of natural resources. Its scholars continue to employ social science methods
to analyze critical issues concerning pollution control, energy policy, land and
water use, hazardous waste, climate change, biodiversity, and the environmen-
tal challenges of developing countries.

RFF Press supports the mission of RFF by publishing book-length works that
present a broad range of approaches to the study of natural resources and the
environment. Its authors and editors include RFF staff, researchers from the
larger academic and policy communities, and journalists. Audiences for pub-
lications by RFF Press include all of the participants in the policymaking pro-
cess—scholars, the media, advocacy groups, NGOs, professionals in business
and government, and the public.
 Resources for the Future
Directors

Vicky A. Bailey Kathryn S. Fuller Rubén Kraiem

Trudy Ann Cameron David G. Hawkins Richard Schmalensee
Preston Chiaro Deborah Hechinger Robert N. Stavins
Mohamed T. El-Ashry Peter R. Kagan Joseph Stiglitz
Linda J. Fisher Sally Katzen Mark R. Tercek

Officers

W. Bowman Cutter, Chair

John M. Deutch, Vice Chair
Frank E. Loy, Vice Chair
Lawrence H. Linden, Treasurer
Philip R. Sharp, President
Edward F. Hand, Vice President–Finance and Administration
Laurel L. Harvey, Vice President–Development and Corporate Secretary
Mark A. Cohen, Vice President–Research

Editorial Advisers for RFF Press

Walter A. Rosenbaum, University of Florida
Jeffrey K. Stine, Smithsonian Institution
 Contents

Contributors ix
Preface xiii

Part I. Introduction
1. Federalism under the Endangered Species Act 3
Kaush Arha and Barton H. Thompson, Jr.

Part II. Frameworks

2. An Economic Assessment of Environmental Federalism:
The Optimal Locus of Endangered Species Authority 21
Terry L. Anderson and Lawrence Reed Watson
3. Cooperative Federalism and the Endangered Species Act:
A Comparative Assessment and Call for Change 35
J. B. Ruhl

Part III. Opportunities for State and Local Involvement under the ESA
4. Listing Decisions, Conservation Agreements, and State–Federal
Collaboration: A Litigation Perspective 55
Eileen Sobeck and Paul S. Weiland
5. The Evolution of Federalism under Section 6 of the Endangered
Species Act 89
Robert P. Davison
6. California’s Natural Community Conservation Planning
Program: Saving Species Habitat amid Rising Development 115
Gail L. Presley
viii Contents

Part IV. Case Studies

  7. The Karner Blue Butterfly: Wisconsin’s Statewide Habitat
Conservation Plan 147
David R. Lentz and Jimmy S. Christenson
  8. The Red-cockaded Woodpecker: Conservation through
Statewide Safe Harbor Agreements 165
Ralph Costa and Richard Gooch
  9. Saving Salmo: Federalism and the Conservation of Maine’s
Atlantic Salmon 187
Alison Rieser

10. Oregon Coastal Coho Restoration and the Endangered Species

Act 221
Gail L. Achterman and Julia Doermann

11. Grizzly Bear Conservation in the Greater Yellowstone

Ecosystem: A Case Study in the Endangered Species Act and
Federalism 251
Kaush Arha and John Emmerich

Part V. Concluding Thoughts

12. Toward Greater State and Local Commitment 307
Kaush Arha and Barton H. Thompson, Jr.

Index 323
 Contributors

Gail L. Achterman (J.D. and M.S.) has been the director of the Institute for
Natural Resources at Oregon State University since 2003. Since 2000, she has
been a member of the Oregon Transportation Commission, which she has
chaired since 2007. She also serves on the Board of the Oregon Wave Energy
Trust and the Advisory Board of the Klamath Basin Rangeland Trust. Among
her publications are “The State and Regional Role in Developing Ecosystem
Service Markets,” published in the Duke Environmental Law and Policy Forum.

Terry Anderson (Ph.D.) is the executive director of the Property and Environ-
ment Research Center (PERC); senior fellow at the Hoover Institution, Stan-
ford University; and professor emeritus at Montana State University. His work
helped launch the idea of “free market environmentalism” with the publica-
tion of a book by that title. Anderson’s other published books include Greener
than Thou, The Not So Wild, Wild West and over 30 others. He has been widely
published in the press, including the Wall Street Journal and the Christian Sci-
ence Monitor.

Kaush Arha (J.D. and Ph.D.) is the lead advisor on agricultural development
and governance with the U.S. Embassy in Kabul, Afghanistan. Prior to that
he served as the deputy assistant secretary for Fish, Wildlife, and Parks and
associate solicitor general at the Department of the Interior. Before his federal
service, Dr. Arha practiced natural resource and corporate law in Washington,
D.C. He is an editor of U.S. Agricultural Policy and the 2007 Farm Bill, and co-
author of Conserving Ecosystem Services Across Agrarian Landscapes.

Jimmy S. Christenson (J.D.) represented the Wisconsin Department of Natu-

ral Resources from 1974 to 2006 in all matters relating to conservation and nat-
ural resources law. He served as legal counsel to Wisconsin’s statewide Karner
Blue Butterfly Habitat Conservation Plan and Incidental Permit from 1991 to
2006 and continues to provide advice. He co-authored the article “Steps for
Success in Rare Species Conservation: The Wisconsin Statewide Karner Blue
Butterfly HCP,” which appeared in A Monumental Event: Proceedings of the
Society of American Foresters 2000 National Convention.
x Contributors

Ralph Costa (M.S.) has been adjunct assistant professor with the Department
of Forestry and Natural Resources at Clemson University, South Carolina,
since 1992. He is also the sole proprietor of Ralph Costa’s Woodpecker Outfit
(RCWO), LLC. Previously, he served as a wildlife biologist and coordinator
of the Red-cockaded Woodpecker Recovery Project (1991–2007) through the
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Mr. Costa is the author of numerous books and
professional publications in symposium and conference proceedings. In 2008,
he was awarded the U.S. Department of Interior Distinguished Service Award.

Robert Davison (Ph.D.) is a courtesy faculty member in the Department of

Fisheries and Wildlife at Oregon State University. Dr. Davison was deputy
assistant secretary for Fish, Wildlife, and Parks in the Interior Department
from 1993 to 1996. He also was responsible for ESA legislation for eight years
as a professional staff member on the U.S. Senate Committee on Environment
and Public Works. Dr. Davison is a co-author of “The National Wildlife Refuge
System” in The Endangered Species Act at Thirty, volume 1.

Julia Doermann (M.S.) is a consultant to Applied Solutions, a national organi-

zation working to increase water and energy efficiency and decrease green-
house gas emissions. She has been an instructor at Oregon State Uni­versity,
teaching graduate and professional courses on water governance and conflict
transformation. Before this, Ms. Doermann was a policy advisor to Oregon’s
Governor Kitzhaber for seven years. She is a co-author of “Retooling Western
Water Management,” in the Land and Water Law Review—Survey of Wyoming
Law and other works.

John Emmerich (M.S.) is the deputy director of external operations with

the Wyoming Game and Fish Department (WGFD). Previously, he was the
WGFD Cody Region Wildlife Management Coordinator supervising the
wildlife management program for the Bighorn Basin, including grizzly bear
recovery efforts. He has authored six articles in state conservation magazines
and state management plans for grizzly bears, wolves, and sage grouse. He
has been recognized by the WGFD with the Director’s Award; USDA Forest
Service Certificate of Appreciation; and WGFD Wildlife Division Employee
of the Year.

Richard Gooch is the chief of the Division of Conservation Partnerships in

the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Atlanta Regional Office, where he has been
employed since 1992. Previously, he served as refuge manager in Maryland and
New Mexico; wetland scientist at the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency;
natural resource manager in Florida; and a nongame regional biologist with
the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission.
Contributors xi

David R. Lentz has worked at the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources

since 1993, first as a fisheries biologist, and since 1995 as the coordinator of the
statewide Karner Blue Butterfly Habitat Conservation Plan. He co-authored
the paper “Steps for Success in Rare Species Conservation,” which appeared in
the proceedings of the North American Wildlife and Natural Resources 2001
National Conference. He is the primary author of the Wisconsin Statewide
Karner Blue Butterfly Habitat Conservation Plan and Environmental Impact
Statement, 2010.

Gail Presley is executive director of the Georges River Land Trust in Rockland
Maine. She was an environmental program manager for the California Depart­
ment of Fish and Game until 2008, and led the statewide program on Natural
Community Conservation Planning from 1998 to 2008. Gail’s areas of exper-
tise include natural community conservation planning, habitat conserva­tion
planning, conservation and mitigation banking, California and federal Endan-
gered Species Acts, and programs such as safe harbor agreements. Her writ-
ings have appeared in California Department of Fish and Game publications.

Alison Rieser (LL.M and J.D.) is Dai Ho Chun Professor of Geography at

the University of Hawaii, Honolulu, where she directs the UH@SEA and
Graduate Ocean Policy Programs. She is also professor emerita at the Uni-
versity of Maine School of Law in Portland, where she established and
directed the Marine Law Institute and taught ocean and coastal law for over
20 years. Ms. Rieser co-authored the leading casebook in coastal and ocean
law, “Coastal and Ocean Law,” and in 1999 was awarded a Pew Fellowship in
Marine Conservation.

J. B. Ruhl (J.D., LL.M., and Ph.D.) is the Matthews & Hawkins Professor
of Property at Florida State University College of Law, where he has taught
courses on environmental law, land use, and property since 1999. In 2008 he
was visiting professor of law at Harvard Law School. He is co-author of The
Law and Policy of Ecosystem Services, and co-author of two casebooks—The
Law of Biodiversity and Ecosystem Management and The Practice and Policy of
Environmental Law.

Eileen Sobeck (J.D.) is deputy assistant secretary for Fish and Wildlife and
Parks at the U.S. Department of the Interior. Before that, she was an attorney
in the Environment and Natural Resources Division of the U.S. Department of
Justice (ENRD), where she served as Deputy Assistant Attorney General from
1999 until 2009. Previously, she worked as a trial attorney and also worked
for the Office of General Counsel of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration.
xii Contributors

Barton H. “Buzz” Thompson, Jr. (M.B.A. and J.D.) is the Robert E. Paradise
Professor in Natural Resources Law at Stanford Law School and the Perry L.
McCarty Director of the Woods Institute for the Environment at Stanford Uni-
versity. He also serves as special master for the United States Supreme Court in
Montana v. Wyoming and is a member of the Science Advisory Board for the
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. He co-authored Legal Control of Water
Resources, Environmental Law and Policy, and Property Law.

Lawrence Reed Watson (M.A. and J.D.) is the coordinator of applied pro-
grams and a research fellow at the Property and Environment Research Center
(PERC) in Bozeman, Montana. He was a 2008–2009 Associate at the Charles
G. Koch Charitable Foundation in Washington, D.C. With Terry Anderson
and Brandon Scarborough, Watson co-authored Water Markets: Increasing the
Flow (2011).

Paul Weiland (J.D. and Ph.D.) is a partner at Nossaman LLP in Irvine, Califor-
nia, and chair of the firm’s Environment and Land Use Practice Group. Previ-
ously, he served as a trial attorney in the Environment and Natural Resources
Division of the U.S. Department of Justice, where he was awarded the Attorney
General’s Distinguished Service Award. He is co-author of Managing for the
Environment (1999), which won two National Book Awards. He has also writ-
ten over 25 articles in the area of environmental law.
 Preface

This book represents the first comprehensive examination of the appropriate

role of states and local governments in protecting biodiversity in the United
States. The book grew out of a major workshop on biodiversity and federalism
held at Stanford University in 2005 and sponsored jointly by the Woods Insti-
tute for the Environment at Stanford University and by Stanford Law School.
National officials (including representatives of the White House, the Depart-
ment of the Interior, and key Congressional committees), major state officials,
environmental representatives, business leaders, and academic experts met
for two days to examine the role that states currently play in protecting the
nation’s imperiled species and how states might play a stronger future role.
The workshop produced wide consensus that states could and should be
playing a greater role in implementing the Endangered Species Act (ESA),
under the appropriate encouragement and guidance of the national govern-
ment, and in protecting biodiversity more generally within their borders. Most
of the workshop participants agreed that the federal government could foster a
larger, more effective role for the states through four mechanisms:

• Promoting trust between state and federal officials involved in biodiversity

protection
• Increasing the amount of funding available to the states for biodiversity
protection, as well as increasing accountability for that funding
• Contouring opportunities for state involvement under the ESA to each
state’s particular abilities and interests, and
• Supporting state conservation efforts that prevent the need for listing spe-
cies under the ESA in the first place.

Many people assisted us in both organizing the workshop and assembling the
essays in this volume. Thanks should go first to all of the participants at the
workshop, who through their insights and candor ensured a productive exam-
ination of the issues. A small committee of experts helped us in organizing and
framing the workshop and was instrumental in the workshop’s success. The
committee included Michael Bean (currently with the Department of the Inte-
rior, and with the Environmental Defense Fund at the time of the workshop)
and Steve Quarles (with Crowell & Moring).
xiv Preface

Greatest thanks go to the authors of the chapters in this book, who have
not only provided stimulating analyses but willingly responded to our multi-
ple requests for edits and updates. Tremendous thanks are also due to Susan
Carter, who assembled and formatted the final draft, and to Barbara Fahs, who
copy-edited and cite-checked the entire manuscript.
K.A.
B.H.T.
 PA R T I

Introduction
 CHAPTER 1

Federalism under the Endangered

Species Act
Kaush Arha and Barton H. Thompson, Jr.

T his book explores the critical role that states can and should play in pro-
tecting the nation’s vast wealth of biodiversity. Most books and articles on
biodiversity protection in the United States have focused on the role of the na-
tional government and the national Endangered Species Act (ESA). The steps
that states have taken to protect jeopardized species, and the potential con-
tributions that states could play in the future, have received surprisingly little
attention. This myopia reflects in part the attention-grabbing headlines that
the ESA has received since the snail darter stopped construction of the Tellico
Dam in the 1970s. But the myopia ignores the crucial importance of the 50
states plus territories in ensuring the survival of the nation’s imperiled species.
States are playing a substantial and growing role in protecting biodiversity.
States spend at least as much money as the national government in the pro­
tection of wildlife diversity (Richie and Holmes 1999). States also protect a
wide variety of species not listed as endangered or threatened under the ESA
(George et al. 1998). The United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS),
moreover, has increasingly used its administrative discretion under the ESA to
give the states a critical role in the implementation of the ESA. States today, for
example, often play a major part under the ESA in determining which species
get listed and in shaping both recovery plans and private land-use restrictions.
As highlighted by many of the chapters in this book, states today are often the
central players in the protection and restoration of ESA-listed species.
The central and growing importance of the states in the fight to save
imperiled species should not be surprising. States historically played the prin-
cipal role in protecting fish and game. Indeed, states bear a trust responsi­bility,
sometimes enshrined in their constitutions, to protect fish and wildlife within
their borders (Bean and Rowland 1997). States, moreover, often enjoy a variety
of advantages over the national government in protecting imperiled species,
ranging from greater on-the-ground expertise in the needs of many local spe-
cies to the ability to enlist local interest and pride in protecting native species.
4 Introduction

Even more can be done to encourage effective state protection of imper-

iled species. States currently play a much smaller role under the ESA than they
do under other major federal environmental statutes, such as the Clean Air
Act (CAA) and Clean Water Act (CWA), which incorporate strong concepts of
cooperative federalism. As implemented, moreover, the ESA today often fails
to provide states with a strong incentive to protect listed species and to help in
their recovery where imperiled.
The national government must continue to lead the effort to protect
endangered and threatened species. Biodiversity protection is a national issue
that cannot be left to the states to address by themselves. Many species occupy
habitat in more than one state. The nation’s interest in protecting particular
species, moreover, can sometimes clash with parochial local interests. In addi­
tion, national protection of imperiled species can often take advantage of econ-
omies of scale and centralized expertise. These factors militate for national
oversight and guidance, but they do not undermine the benefits that increased
state participation could bring if appropriately encouraged and facilitated by
the national government.

Federalism under Today’s Endangered Species Act

This book focuses on the opportunities for greater state and local involvement
through the ESA. States and local governments already play a significant role in
influencing and implementing various aspects of the ESA, and they could play
an even more valuable role. The ESA, moreover, provides the national govern-
ment with its potentially most effective instrument for encouraging states and
local governments to commit to stronger efforts to protect biodiversity.
Cooperative federalism was a key concept in the wave of national pollu-
tion statutes that Congress passed in the early 1970s. Although the various
statutes gave the national Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) the power
to establish and maintain the overall environmental standards, the statutes
gave willing states a critical role in the implementation of their provisions. As
a result, states today play a major role in implementing and enforcing major
environmental laws such as the CAA, CWA, and Resource Conservation
and Recovery Act. Although the arguments for such cooperative federalism
were diverse, Congress believed that states could bring considerable expertise
and information to the table and that conditions varied significantly enough
among states that local implementation would provide for more effective regu-
latory regimes.
In passing the 1973 ESA, Congress emphasized the importance of involv­
i­ng states in the protection of the nation’s biodiversity too. In section 2 of the
ESA, for example, Congress found that encouraging states “to develop and
maintain conservation programs” is key to “better safeguarding … the Nation’s
heritage in fish, wildlife, and plants” (16 U.S.C. § 1531(a)(5)). Reflecting states’
Federalism under the Endangered Species Act 5

historic jurisdiction over water resources, Congress also declared its policy
that “Federal agencies shall cooperate with State and local agencies to resolve
water resource issues in concert with conservation of endangered species” (16
U.S.C. § 1531(c)(2)).
The substantive provisions of the 1973 ESA, however, appeared to contem­
plate a more limited role for state governments than the cooperative federal-
ism provisions of contemporaneous pollution statutes such as the CAA and
CWA. With the exception of section 6 of the ESA, which provided for coopera-
tive agreements between the national government and the states and explicitly
required the national government to “cooperate to the maximum extent prac-
ticable with the States” in carrying out the ESA, the ESA gave virtually all of
the major responsibilities under the Act to the national government.
In implementing the ESA, the USFWS has arguably undermined the orig-
inal intent of section 6. At the same time, however, the USFWS has used its
discretion under other provisions of the Act to give the states a greater role
than Congress may have anticipated.

Listing Decisions

The first step in protecting species under the ESA, deciding whether to list a
species as either endangered or threatened, is the exclusive province of the U.S.
Departments of Interior and Commerce (16 U.S.C. § 1533(a)).1 Congress gave
a nod to state involvement in the listing process, however, by requiring the
national government to take any independent state or local protection efforts
into account in deciding whether a species should be listed as endangered
or threatened (16 U.S.C. § 1533(b)(1)(A)). Congress also gave a nod to the
states in the designation of critical habitat, where the ESA requires Interior
and Commerce to consult “as appropriate with affected States” in determining
what habitat is “critical” (16 U.S.C. § 1536(a)(2)).
In practice, Interior and Commerce have increasingly collaborated with
the states in the listing process, and states have experienced growing influence
through their own efforts to protect candidate species. In 1994, the USFWS
adopted a formal policy providing for state consultation and advice in pre-
listings and listings (George et al. 1998). To help guide determinations of when
state and local conservation efforts eliminate the need to list a species, USFWS
has also developed a Policy for Evaluation of Conservation Efforts when Mak-
ing Listing Decisions—or what it calls its “PECE” policy.
The USFWS also has developed a program of candidate conservation
agreements in which local landowners—joined in many cases by state agen-
cies (such as fish and wildlife agencies) and local governments and agencies
(such as soil conservation districts)—agree to take specific actions to protect
a species in order to eliminate the need for a federal listing (and sometimes
in return for assurances that, if a species is ultimately listed, the USFWS will
not require additional actions of the landowners involved in the agreement)
6 Introduction

(Thompson 2005). These agreements provide another opportunity for states to

avoid “nationalized protection” of particular species.2 As of 2003, the USFWS
had approved over 100 candidate conservation agreements (of which about
two dozen included assurances) (Thompson 2005).
The USFWS’s approach, which the language of the ESA itself only inferen­
tially contemplates, in effect permits states and local governments to take
responsibility for protecting imperiled species that would normally be subject
to national regulatory protection. If states and localities can demonstrate that
their efforts are providing adequate protection for an imperiled species, the
USFWS will allow them to retain principal authority for the species’ protec-
tion. If at some future point the USFWS determines that state and local pro-
tections are inadequate, the USFWS can “revoke” this delegation by listing the
species under the ESA.3

Recovery Plans

Interior and Commerce similarly have sole statutory authority to develop and
implement recovery plans for listed species (16 U.S.C. § 1533(f)(1)). Although
these departments are authorized to “procure the services of appropriate pub-
lic and private agencies and institutions, and other qualified persons” in devel-
oping and implementing recovery plans, the ESA does not provide states with
any special, explicit, or ensured role in recovery plans (16 U.S.C. § 1533(f)(2)).
In practice, however, states currently play perhaps their most prominent
role under the ESA in developing and carrying out recovery plans for federally
listed species. From the very outset of the ESA, the national government has
used its authority to procure the services of “appropriate public agencies” in
developing and implementing recovery plans to actively seek out the involve-
ment of state agencies. In 1994, the USFWS adopted a policy on the “Role of
State Agencies in Endangered Species Activities” that requires the USFWS to
seek state participation in both the planning and implementation of recovery
plans (George et al. 1998). In the view of some experts, the involvement of
state wildlife agencies and their biologists has been critical to the success of
recovery programs (Burnham et al. 2005).
Indeed, state agencies may actually play the principal role in developing
and implementing recovery plans for many federally listed species. In a recent
survey of state biodiversity program managers, researchers asked about the
relative role of state and national wildlife managers in field efforts to restore
federally listed species. Managers in over two-thirds of the states reported that
either the state had primary responsibility for work on federally listed species
(true in the majority of states) or the state and national governments shared
responsibility. Managers in only two states said that the national government
took the lead on field projects. In the average state, biologists in the lead state
agency spent approximately a third of their time in efforts to protect and
restore federally listed species (Niles and Korth 2005).
Federalism under the Endangered Species Act 7

The degree of coordination between state and national restoration efforts,

however, is less clear. In the survey mentioned above, state biodiversity pro­
gram managers indicated that a mechanism is lacking for full cooperation
between state and national biologists working to restore the same species. Sev-
eral states indicated that they did not even know what, if any, activities the
national USFWS was carrying out in their state, making it impossible to say
who was playing the more significant role (Niles and Korth 2005).

Consultations by Federal Agencies

The ESA also gives the departments of Interior and Commerce exclusive juris-
diction over the principal regulatory provisions designed to protect listed
species. Federal agencies, for example, must consult with Interior and Com-
merce, but not states, in evaluating whether a proposed action might jeopard-
ize the continued existence of a listed species or adversely modify its critical
habitat (16 U.S.C. § 1536(a)(2)). This contrasts sharply with the Coastal Zone
Management Act (CZMA), where Congress not only has authorized states to
prepare coastal plans but requires federal agencies to carry out their actions
“in a manner which is consistent to the maximum extent practicable with the
enforceable policies” of those state plans that have received federal approval
under the act (16 U.S.C. § 1456(c)(1)(A)).

Takings Prohibitions

The ESA also gives Interior and Commerce exclusive authority over the
enforcement of ESA section 9’s prohibition on the “taking” by anyone of an
endangered species of fish or wildlife, defined to include harming, hunting,
killing, or wounding such a species or, by regulation, adversely modifying its
habitat in a way that leads to the death or injury of the species (the “anti-
take provision”).4 Interior and Commerce also determine whether and when
to issue “incidental-take permits” under section 10 of the ESA exempting the
permit holder from the anti-take provision of section 9 when the permittee
will only incidentally take a species while engaged in an otherwise lawful pur-
suit (16 U.S.C. § 1539). Under section 10, Interior can issue an incidental take
permit to a private landowner who could harm or kill an endangered species
while developing or using his or her property if the landowner has developed
an acceptable habitat conservation plan (HCP) (Thompson 1997).5
States and local governments often do not become involved in the imple-
mentation of section 10 of the ESA even though local land-use decisions can
be affected. To date, the vast majority of submitted HCPs and issued permits
have involved single properties or development projects (Thompson 2005).
States and local governments have seldom been involved in the shaping of
these HCPs, which have typically involved lengthy negotiations between
private landowners and the USFWS (Lin 1996; Thompson 2005). Property
8 Introduction

owners must work with local governments to obtain general development

and use permits, but the process of negotiating an individual HCP effectively
nationalizes issues of species protection.
Because the time and costs involved in this traditional, property-by-
property HCP process can significantly impede development and interfere
with local land-use planning goals, however, a growing number of local com-
munities throughout the nation have chosen to develop regional HCPs that set
out a comprehensive and integrated plan for developing and using property
while protecting species that have been listed (and, in a growing number of
cases, species that may be listed in the future). As of mid-2003, the USFWS had
approved 15 regional HCPs with a terrestrial focus, including HCPs covering
major regions of Arizona, Southern California, Nevada, and Utah, and nego-
tiations were ongoing for a sizable number of new regional HCPs (Thompson
1997; Thompson 2005).
State and local governments have played a major role in the negotiation
and implementation of regional HCPs, in stark contrast to their minor or non-
existent role in shaping individual HCPs (Beatley 1994; Thompson 1997). They
have participated in, and in some cases led, the lengthy and complex negotia-
tions needed to develop plans that are acceptable to all significant stakeholders
(e.g., Behan 2005). In 1991, California created its own regulatory framework,
known as Natural Community Conservation Planning (NCCP), for develop-
ing and structuring regional biodiversity plans (Tarlock 2005). In other cases,
states have negotiated or are negotiating state-wide HCPs covering particu-
lar species or habitat types (George et al. 1998; Thompson 2005). States and
local governments also play a crucial role in implementing the terms of most
regional HCPs, which typically dictate where various forms of development
and land use can occur and which often provide for the creation and funding
of sizable biodiversity reserves (Tarlock 2005).
The national government also has created an opportunity through its “safe
harbor” program for state involvement in structuring land-use decisions that
help promote biodiversity (50 C.F.R. 17.22(c)). The principal purpose of the
safe harbor program is to encourage property owners to enhance, restore, and
create habitat on their lands (Salzman and Thompson 2010). Prior to regula-
tory adoption of the safe harbor program, property owners often feared that if,
by restoring or creating habitat, they attracted listed species onto their prop-
erty, they would lose the ability to make later land-use changes; under safe
harbor agreements (SHAs), the national government promises that, in return
for the landowners’ efforts to promote habitat on their land, a later decision
to return the land to its initial conditions will not trigger section 9. Although
SHAs can be negotiated for a single property, most have provided for regional
protection in order to reduce the overall cost of the program and provide
for more coordinated efforts. Such regional agreements, in turn, require an
entity that can administer the agreement and enter into subsidiary agree-
ments with individual landowners. States can operate as this entity: Hawaii
Federalism under the Endangered Species Act 9

operates a safe harbor program for the Hawaiian goose, and three states
(Georgia, South Carolina, and Texas) run a program for the red-cockaded
woodpecker.

Section 6

In contrast to the other provisions of the ESA, section 6 appears to potentially

give states a significant role. Section 6 begins by instructing Interior and Com-
merce to “cooperate to the maximum extent practicable with the States” in
implementing the ESA and, more specifically, to consult with a state before
acquiring any land or water within the state for conservation purposes (16
U.S.C. § 1535(a)). Section 6 then authorizes Interior and Commerce to enter
into two types of agreements with states: (1) “management agreements” in
which states can administer and manage conservation areas such as wild-
life refuges, and (2) “cooperative agreements” in which states undertake the
conservation of listed species within their jurisdiction (16 U.S.C. § 1535(b)–
(c)). Of these two opportunities, cooperative agreements appear to offer the
stronger potential for cooperative federalism. Section 6(g)(2) of the ESA pro-
vides that neither the anti-take provision of section 9(a)(1) nor the provisions
of section 4(d), which allow Interior and Commerce to extend the anti-take
prohibition to threatened species, applies to the taking of any listed species
covered by a cooperative agreement that has been approved by Interior or
Commerce (16 U.S.C. § 1535(g)(2)).6 Like cooperative federalism provisions
in other environmental laws, section 6 thus appears to allow states to substi-
tute their own conservation programs for the national regulatory prohibitions
of sections 4(d) and 9 where the states have demonstrated an ability to provide
adequate, independent protection of the relevant species.
Section 6(c) sets out strict criteria for federal approval of a cooperative
agreement. Interior and Commerce can enter into a cooperative agreement
only with states that “establish and maintain an adequate and active program
for the conservation of endangered species and threatened species” (16 U.S.C.
§ 1535(c)(1)). The departments must find initially and annually thereafter that
the relevant state agency has the authority to “conserve resident species” that
the state finds to be endangered or threatened and to “establish programs,
including the acquisition of land or aquatic habitat or interests therein, for
the conservation of resident endangered or threatened species of fish or wild-
life”; the federal agencies also must find that the state agency “has established
acceptable conservation programs, consistent with the purposes and policies”
of the ESA, for all nationally listed species (16 U.S.C. § 1535(c)(1)).
The legislative history of section 6 suggests that Congress intended to allow
states to take over regulation of private threats to federally listed species if the
states adopted adequate conservation programs. In reporting on the Senate
version of section 6, for example, the Senate Commerce Committee warned
that the national government “should not pre-empt efficient [state] programs”
10 Introduction

that meet minimum federal standards. “Instead, it should encourage these,

and aid in the extension or establishment of others, to facilitate management
by granting regulatory authority and making available financial assistance to
approved schemes” (U.S. Congress 1973c). The Conference Committee for the
bill similarly reported that approved cooperative agreements “will of course
direct and control the enforcement of endangered and threatened species pro-
grams” (U.S. Congress 1973a).
Courts, however, have limited the potential significance of section 6 by
refusing to read it to allow Interior and Commerce to permit states to substi-
tute their own conservation programs if those programs do not prohibit the
taking of listed species on private lands, including the adverse modification of
privately owned habitat. The key to the courts’ interpretation is another part
of section 6 that provides that any state law or regulation is void to the degree
that it may “permit what is prohibited” under the ESA and that any state law
“respecting the taking of an endangered species or threatened species may be
more restrictive than” sections 4(d) and 9 “but not less restrictive” (16 U.S.C. §
1535(f)). Relying on this provision, two district courts in the early 1990s found
that the takings prohibitions of sections 4(d) and 9 preempt any less restrictive
state laws, despite the language of section 6(g)(2) which, as the courts recog-
nized, “seems to contemplate less restrictive state law on takings” (Swan View
Coalition, Inc. v. Turner 1992; U.S. v. Glenn-Colusa Irrigation Dist. 1992). Nei-
ther case was appealed, so the district court decisions remain the only extant
interpretations of section 6 of the ESA.7
Under these judicial interpretations, section 6 apparently allows states to
take over for the national government through “cooperative agreements” only
where relevant state law includes anti-take prohibitions at least as restrictive
as the federal prohibitions of sections 4(d) and 9. The decisions thereby turn
section 6 into a form of “managerial federalism,” in which states can assume
responsibility for enforcing the Act’s anti-take provisions (and can assume
tighter restrictions), but cannot choose a different approach to protecting
listed species even if Interior or Commerce determines that a state’s approach
is equally protective of federally listed species. The legislative history of the
ESA is unclear whether Congress intended section 6 to provide only for such
narrow managerial federalism or for a broader cooperative federalism.

Federal Funding of State Biodiversity Efforts

The national government can promote state efforts to protect and restore bio-
diversity not only by allowing states to take over responsibility for key mana-
gerial or regulatory functions but also by helping to fund state activities. The
ESA expressly authorizes federal cost sharing of the expenses of running coop-
erative agreements under section 6 (16 U.S.C. § 1535(d),(i)). The USFWS has
used this funding to encourage states to enter into cooperative agreements
under which states work to protect federally listed species. All 50 states have
Federalism under the Endangered Species Act 11

taken advantage of this opportunity, and many have enhanced their state bio-
diversity laws in order to meet section 6’s qualifying requirements (George et
al. 1998). To expand the attractiveness of cooperative agreements, Congress
amended the ESA in 1977 to provide for species-specific agreements in addi-
tion to the blanket agreements contemplated by the original 1973 legislation
(16 U.S.C. § 1535(c)(1)).
Federal funding of state biodiversity efforts has historically represented
only a fraction of the costs of running state programs. In recent years, however,
Congress has increased the available funding in a sign of increased interest in
cooperative federalism under the ESA. Funding under section 6, for exam-
ple, increased almost sixfold from 1998 to 2003 (Niles and Korth 2005). Over
the past decade, moreover, Congress created two new funding programs—the
State Wildlife Grant program (SWG) and the Landowner Incentive Program
(Niles and Korth 2005). As part of the SWG, Congress required states, as a
condition for receiving federal funding, to complete comprehensive wildlife
conservation strategies (Shaffer et al. 2005).

State Biodiversity Programs

All but five states now have endangered species acts of their own (up from sev-
enteen rudimentary acts when Congress passed the ESA in 1973). Most of the
state acts are far more limited than the national ESA. Although virtually every
state act prohibits the killing, wounding, or capturing of imperiled species, most
do not regulate habitat destruction or modification, do not require state or local
agencies to consult before taking actions that might jeopardize a protected spe-
cies, and do not provide for express recovery mechanisms (George et al. 1998).
A small but growing number of state statutes, however, have provisions
that match and, in a few cases, go beyond approaches in the national ESA.
California, for example, applies its regulatory prohibitions to candidate species
(unlike the national ESA which provides no protection to candidate species)
(Cal. Fish and Game Code § 2080), and eight states provide for emergency
listings (George et al. 1998). While the national ESA prohibits, by regulation,
habitat modification that leads to the actual death or injury of a listed spe-
cies, the Massachusetts endangered species act explicitly prohibits disruption
to an animal’s “nesting, breeding, feeding or migratory activity” or alteration
of significant habitat (Mass. Gen. Laws Ann. Ch. 131A, §§ 1–2). Several states
also have authorized various forms of agreements, including pre-listing and
SHAs, designed to encourage voluntary conservation efforts by landowners
(e.g., Haw. Rev. Stat. Ann. § 195D-22; Kan. Stat. Ann. § 32-962(b)(1)). Two
states provide for a multi-species, ecological approach to the formulation of
recovery plans (e.g., N.M. Stat. Ann. § 17-2-40.1). Several states also provide
greater protection of imperiled plants than the national ESA offers (George et
al. 1998).
12 Introduction

Clear indications of the significant role that states today play in protect-
ing biodiversity are the independent (and voluntarily adopted) programs that
states have created to protect and restore imperiled species. Even before Con-
gress’ creation of the SWG program, states had begun to create comprehen-
sive state wildlife conservation strategies (Shaffer et al. 2005). For example,
approximately 30 states now have active programs for habitat acquisition. In
2003, these states probably spent close to, if not more than, $100 million on
such acquisitions (Niles and Korth 2005). Many states, unlike the national
government, also actively map imperiled species within their borders (Swain
2005). States are using this information for multiple purposes, including the
identification of habitats that are important for the protection of imperiled
species (Niles and Korth 2005).
Another indication of the expanded role that states now play in protecting
biodiversity is the degree to which they protect imperiled species that are not
federally listed. ESA-listed species constitute only a small fraction of those that
biologists estimate are actually imperiled; one study estimates that the number
of “potentially listed species” is more than 9,000 (far outstripping the 1,200-
plus species formally listed under the ESA) (Scott et al. 2005). Forty-four states
now have their own endangered species lists (Niles and Korth 2005). While
some state lists merely duplicate the national list, many lists include sizable
numbers of imperiled species that are not federally listed and thus not pro-
tected by the national ESA (George et al. 1998). States often spend significant
sums protecting these species (George et al. 1998).
There are limits, however, to state protection of biodiversity. Most state
legislatures still have not given their agencies significant regulatory authority
for the protection of listed species (Goble et al. 1999). While total state expen-
ditures on imperiled species rival those of the national government, overall
state funding of biodiversity efforts from 1998 to 2003 (the dates of the two
most recent studies) did not even keep up with the rate of inflation (Niles and
Korth 2005). States, in short, are playing a significant role in protecting the
nation’s biodiversity and, as discussed in the next section of this book, can play
a larger role, but national regulation, oversight, and funding are still critical to
the success of biodiversity protection.

Schema of this Book

We begin with a pair of assessment frameworks, and then explore local and
state opportunities before moving on to case studies. A final section sums up
what more can be done at the state and local levels to encourage effective con-
servation of imperiled species.
Federalism under the Endangered Species Act 13

Frameworks

The following two chapters are designed to provide frameworks through which
to consider the appropriate role of federalism under the ESA. In Chapter 2,
“An Economic Assessment of Environmental Federalism: The Optimal Locus
of Endangered Species Authority,” Terry Anderson and Lawrence Watson
provide an economic framework for choosing between state and national
implementation of environmental policy. As the authors note, the principal
argument for national implementation is the internalization of the benefits
and costs of environmental policies with broad geographic impacts. In the
case of the ESA, for example, all citizens in the United States have an inter-
est in the protection of the nation’s biodiversity, yet individual states might
not take the nationwide benefits into account in deciding on the appropriate
level of protection. The nationalization of biodiversity protection, however,
can generate transaction costs in the form of lost local expertise, agency costs,
and “monopoly distortion” in which all citizens are forced to accept a uniform
national level of protection. According to the authors, the optimum level of
federalism involves a balance between ensuring an appropriate level of inter-
nalization and minimizing transaction costs.
In Chapter 3, “Cooperative Federalism and the Endangered Species Act:
A Comparative Assessment and Call for Change,” J. B. Ruhl provides legal
insight into the potential role of states in protecting biodiversity by comparing
how the national government has used “cooperative federalism” to implement
other environmental policies. Professor Ruhl contrasts the states’ role under
the ESA with their roles under the CWA and the CZMA. Professor Ruhl finds
that the national government has not taken as much advantage of state exper-
tise and resources under the ESA as it has under other statutes. According to
Professor Ruhl, this has had a number of disadvantageous effects, including
the stunted transformation of state wildlife agencies into effective biodiversity
managers and unnecessary hostility from local property owners who feel that
the national government is not responsive to their interests and concerns.

Opportunities for State and Local Involvement under the ESA

The next section of the book looks at several provisions and programs under
the ESA that might be used to more actively involve the states in biodiver-
sity protection. Chapter 4, “Listing Decisions, Conservation Agreements, and
State–Federal Collaboration: A Litigation Perspective,” starts by examining the
opportunity for states to influence federal listing decisions. Eileen Sobeck and
Paul Weiland look at the litigation surrounding decisions by the Department
of the Interior not to list species because of existing state efforts to protect the
species. As the authors observe, courts have often looked skeptically at such
decisions; courts fear that the state efforts have little substance or teeth and that
Interior is seeking merely to avoid difficult political decisions. To enable the
14 Introduction

national government to take legitimate state programs into account in mak-

ing listing decisions, the authors recommend that Interior use a more regular-
ized process and set of criteria in evaluating state programs and develop better
administrative records. The authors also recommend that states launch their
protection efforts at an earlier stage so that state efforts do not look merely like
means to derail a federal listing decision.
In Chapter 5, “The Evolution of Federalism under Section 6 of the Endan-
gered Species Act,” Robert Davison turns to current practice under section 6 of
the ESA. In Davison’s view, Congress envisioned that section 6 would provide
a much greater role for the states than they have enjoyed. The Department
of the Interior transformed section 6 into a funding mechanism for specific
projects rather than using section 6 to authorize broad cooperative agree-
ments. In 2002, however, the USFWS entered into a broad cooperative agree-
ment with the Arizona Game and Fish Department intended to “facilitate joint
participation, communication, coordination, and collaboration.” In Davison’s
view, the Arizona agreement provides a useful model for more robust cooper-
ative agreements in the future between the national government and the states.
Chapter 6, “California’s Natural Community Conservation Planning
Program: Saving Species Habitat amid Rising Development,” examines Cali­
fornia’s program for NCCP, one of the few instances of a comprehensive state
program begun to enhance and improve on the national ESA. According to
Gail Presley, the NCCP program has been effective for several reasons. It pro-
vides the California Department of Fish and Game with significant authority,
including the authority to prohibit the “take” of an endangered species; builds
on a strong scientific foundation; enjoys substantial state funding; and pro-
vides for significant public partici­pation. In Presley’s view, an important ques-
tion is whether other states could duplicate California’s success with the NCCP
program. According to Presley, three factors combined to enable California to
adopt and develop the NCCP program—California’s history of environmen-
tal leadership, its rapid growth (which provided significant pressure to create
a regulatory system that was more effective than the ESA), and the relative
wealth of its development community (which allowed developers to incur the
increased expense and time involved in implementing NCCP programs).

Case Studies

The fourth section of the book looks at federalism and the ESA through a
series of case studies. Chapter 7, “The Karner Blue Butterfly: Wisconsin’s
Statewide Habitat Conservation Plan,” starts by examining Wisconsin’s suc-
cessful efforts to protect the Karner blue butterfly through a unique statewide
HCP that depends to a significant degree on voluntary private action. Jimmy
Christensen and David Lentz identify several problems with the ESA that they
believe undermine the motivation of states like Wisconsin to undertake sig-
nificant protection and recovery programs like the Karner blue butterfly HCP.
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
by one into the arms of gendarmes below. The palaces along the
Riva were a broad ribbon of color with a binding of black coats and
hats. The wall of San Giorgio fronting the barracks was fringed with
the yellow legs and edged with the white fatigue caps of two
regiments. Even over the roofs and tower of the church itself specks
of sight-seers were spattered here and there, as if the joyous wind in
some mad frolic had caught them up in very glee, and as suddenly
showered them on cornice, sill, and dome.
Beyond all this, away out on the lagoon, toward the islands, the red-
sailed fishing-boats hurried in for the finish, their canvas aflame
against the deepening blue. Over all the sunlight danced and blazed
and shimmered, gilding and bronzing the roof-jewels of San Marco,
flashing from oar blade, brass, and ferro, silvering the pigeons
whirling deliriously in the intoxicating air, making glad and gay and
happy every soul who breathed the breath of this joyous Venetian
day.
None of all this was lost upon the Professor. He stood in the bow
drinking in the scene, sweeping his glass round like a weather-vane,
straining his eyes up the Giudecca to catch the first glimpse of the
coming boats, picking out faces under flaunting parasols, and waving
aloft his yellow rag when some gondola swept by flying Pietro’s
colors, or some boat-load of friends saluted in passing.
Suddenly there came down on the shifting wind, from far up the
Giudecca, a sound like the distant baying of a pack of hounds, and
as suddenly died away. Then the roar of a thousand throats, caught
up by a thousand more about us, broke on the air, as a boatman,
perched on a masthead, waved his hat.
“Here they come! Viva Pietro! Viva Pasquale!—Castellani!—Nicoletti!
—Pietro!”
The dense mass rose and fell in undulations, like a great carpet
being shaken, its colors tossing in the sunlight. Between the thicket
of ferros, away down the silver ribbon, my eye caught two little
specks of yellow capping two white figures. Behind these, almost in
line, were two similar dots of blue; farther away other dots, hardly
distinguishable, on the horizon line.
The gale became a tempest—the roar was deafening; women waved
their shawls in the air; men, swinging their hats, shouted themselves
hoarse. The yellow specks developed into handkerchiefs bound to
the heads of Pietro and his brother Marco; the blues were those of
Pasquale and his mate.
Then, as we strain our eyes, the two tails of the sea-monster twist
and clash together, closing in upon the string of rowers as they
disappear in the dip behind San Giorgio, only to reappear in full
sight, Pietro half a length ahead, straining every sinew, his superb
arms swinging like a flail, his lithe body swaying in splendid,
springing curves, the water rushing from his oar blade, his brother
bending aft in perfect rhythm.
“Pietro! Pietro!” came the cry, shrill and clear, drowning all other
sounds, and a great field of yellow burst into flower all over the
lagoon, from San Giorgio to the Garden. The people went wild. If
before there had been only a tempest, now there was a cyclone. The
waves of blue and yellow surged alternately above the heads of the
throng as Pasquale or Pietro gained or lost a foot. The Professor
grew red and pale by turns, his voice broken to a whisper with
continued cheering, the yellow rag streaming above his head, all the
blood of his ancestors blazing in his face.
The contesting boats surged closer. You could now see the rise and
fall of Pietro’s superb chest, the steel-like grip of his hands, and
could outline the curves of his thighs and back. The ends of the
yellow handkerchief, bound close about his head, were flying in the
wind. His stroke was long and sweeping, his full weight on the oar;
Pasquale’s stroke was short and quick, like the thrust of a spur.
Now they are abreast. Pietro’s eyes are blazing—Pasquale’s teeth
are set. Both crews are doing their utmost. The yells are demoniac.
Even the women are beside themselves with excitement.
Suddenly, when within five hundred yards of the goal, Pasquale
turns his head to his mate; there is an answering cry, and then, as if
some unseen power had lent its strength, Pasquale’s boat shoots
half a length ahead, slackens, falls back, gains again, now an inch,
now a foot, now clear of Pietro’s bow, and on, on, lashing the water,
surging forward, springing with every gain, cheered by a thousand
throats, past the red tower of San Giorgio, past the channel of spiles
off the Garden, past the red buoy near the great warship,—one
quick, sustained, blistering stroke,—until the judge’s flag drops from
his hand, and the great race is won.
“A true knight, a gentleman every inch of him,” called out the
Professor, forgetting that he had staked all his soldi on Pietro. “Fairly
won, Pasquale.”
In the whirl of the victory, I had forgotten Pietro, my gondolier of the
morning. The poor fellow was sitting in the bow of his boat, his head
in his hands, wiping his forehead and throat, the tears streaming
down his cheeks. His brother sat beside him. In the gladness and
disappointment of the hour, no one of the crowd around him seemed
to think of the hero of five minutes before. Not so Giorgio, who was
beside himself with grief over Pietro’s defeat, and who had not taken
his eyes from his face. In an instant more he sprang forward, calling
out, “No! no! Brava Pietro!” Espero joining in as if with a common
impulse, and both forcing their gondolas close to Pietro’s.
A moment more and Giorgio was over the rail of Pietro’s boat,
patting his back, stroking his head, comforting him as you would
think only a woman could—but then you do not know Giorgio. Pietro
lifted up his face and looked into Giorgio’s eyes with an expression
so woe-begone, and full of such intense suffering, that Giorgio
instinctively flung his arm around the great, splendid fellow’s neck.
Then came a few broken words, a tender caressing stroke of
Giorgio’s hand, a drawing of Pietro’s head down on his breast as if it
had been a girl’s, and then, still comforting him—telling him over and
over again how superbly he had rowed, how the next time he would
win, how he had made a grand second—
Giorgio bent his head—and kissed him.
When Pietro, a moment later, pulled himself together and stood erect
in his boat, with eyes still wet, the look on his face was as firm and
determined as ever.
Nobody laughed. It did not shock the crowd; nobody thought Giorgio
unmanly or foolish, or Pietro silly or effeminate. The infernal Anglo-
Saxon custom of always wearing a mask of reserve, if your heart
breaks, has never reached these people.
As for the Professor, who looked on quietly, I think—yes, I am quite
sure—that a little jewel of a tear squeezed itself up through his
punctilious, precise, ever exact and courteous body, and glistened
long enough on his eyelids to wet their lashes. Then the bright sun
and the joyous wind caught it away. Dear old relic of a by-gone time!
How gentle a heart beats under your well-brushed, threadbare coat!
SOME VENETIAN CAFFÈS
VERY one in Venice has his own particular caffè, according
to his own particular needs, sympathies, or tastes. All the
artists, architects, and musicians meet at Florian’s; all the
Venetians go to the Quadri; the Germans and late
Austrians, to the Bauer-Grünwald; the stay-over-nights, to the
Oriental on the Riva; the stevedores, to the Veneta Marina below the
Arsenal; and my dear friend Luigi and his fellow-tramps, to a little
hole in the wall on the Via Garibaldi.

A LITTLE HOLE IN THE WALL ON THE VIA GARIBALDI

These caffès are scattered everywhere, from the Public Garden to
the Mestre bridge; all kinds of caffès for all kinds of people—rich, not
so rich, poor, poorer, and the very poorest. Many of them serve only
a cup of coffee, two little flat lumps of sugar, a hard, brown roll, and a
glass of water—always a glass of water. Some add a few syrups and
cordials, with a siphon of seltzer. Others indulge in the cheaper
wines of the country, Brindisi, Chianti, and the like, and are then
known as wine-shops. Very few serve any spirits, except a spoonful
of cognac with the coffee. Water is the universal beverage, and in
summer this is cooled by ice and enriched by simple syrups of
peach, orange, and raspberry. Spirits are rarely taken and
intemperance is practically unknown. In an experience of many
years, I have not seen ten drunken men,—never one drunken
woman,—and then only in September, when the strong wine from
Brindisi is brought in bulk and sold over the boat’s rail, literally by the
bucket, to whoever will buy.
In the ristoranti—caffès, in our sense—is served an array of eatables
that would puzzle the most expert of gourmands. There will be
macaroni, of course, in all forms, and risotto in a dozen different
ways, and soups with weird, uncanny little devil-fish floating about in
them, and salads of every conceivable green thing that can be
chopped up in a bowl and drowned in olive oil; besides an
assortment of cheeses with individualities of perfume that beggar
any similar collection outside of Holland.
Some of these caffès are so much a part of Venice and Venetian life,
that you are led to believe that they were founded by the early Doges
and are coëval with the Campanile or the Library. Somebody, of
course, must know when they first began setting out tables on the
piazza in front of Florian’s, or at the Quadri opposite, or yet again at
the Caffè al Cavallo, near San Giovanni e Paulo, and at scores of
others; but I confess I do not. If you ask the head waiter, who really
ought to know (for he must have been born in one of the upper
rooms—he certainly never leaves the lower ones), he shrugs his
shoulders in a hopeless way and sheds the inquiry with a despairing
gesture, quite as if you had asked who laid out San Marco, or who
drove the piles under Saint Theodore.
There is, I am convinced, no real, permanent, steady proprietor in
any of these caffès—none that one ever sees. There must be, of
course, somebody who assumes ownership, and who for a time
really believes that he has a proprietary interest in the chairs and
tables about him. After a while, however, he gets old and dies, and is
buried over in Campo Santo, and even his name is forgotten. When
this happens, and it is eminently proper that it should, another tenant
takes possession, quite as the pigeons do of an empty carving over
the door of the king’s palace.
But the caffè keeps on: the same old marble-top tables; the same old
glass-covered pictures, with the impossible Turkish houris listening
to the improbable gentleman in baggy trousers; the same serving-
counter, with the row of cordials in glass bottles with silver stoppers.
The same waiters, too, hurry about—they live on for centuries—
wearing the same coats and neckties, and carrying the same
napkins. I myself have never seen a dead waiter, and, now I happen
to think of it, I have never heard of one.
The head waiter is, of course, supreme. He it is who adds up on his
fingers the sum of your extravagances, who takes your money and
dives down into his own pocket for the change. He and his assistants
are constantly running in and out, vanishing down subterranean
stairs, or disappearing through swinging doors, with the agility of
Harlequin; you never know where or why, until they pop out again,
whirling trays held high over their heads, or bearing in both hands
huge waiters loaded with dishes.
The habitués of these caffès are as interesting as the caffès
themselves. The Professor comes, of course; you always know
where to find him. And the youthful Contessa! She of the uncertain
age, with hair bleached to a light law-calf, and a rose-colored veil!
And here comes, too, every distinguished or notorious person of high
or low degree at the moment in Venice; you have only to take a chair
at Florian’s and be patient—they are sure to appear before the music
is over. There is the sister of the Archduke, with the straight-backed,
pipe-stem-legged officer acting as gentleman-in-waiting; and he
does wait, standing bolt upright like a sergeant on dress parade,
sometimes an hour, for her to sit down. There is the Spanish
Grandee, with a palace for the season (an upper floor with an
entrance on a side canal), whose gondoliers wear flaming scarlet,
with a crest embossed on brass dinner-plates for arm ornaments;
one of these liveried attendants always dogs the Grandee to the
caffè, so as to be ready to pull his chair out when his Excellency sits
down. Then there are the Royal Academician, in gray tweed
knickerbockers, traveling incognito with two friends; the fragments of
an American linen-duster brigade, with red guide-books and faces, in
charge of a special agent; besides scores of others of every
nationality and rank. They are all at Florian’s some time during the
day.
You will see there, too, if you are familiar with the inside workings of
a favorite caffè, an underground life of intrigue or mystery, in which
Gustavo or Florio has a hand—often upon a billet-doux concealed
within the folds of a napkin; not to mention the harmless distribution,
once in a while, of smuggled cigarettes fresh from Cairo.
Poor Gustavo! The government brought him to book not long ago.
For many years he had supplied his patrons, and with delicious
Egyptians, too! One night Gustavo disappeared, escorted by two
gendarmes from the Department of Justice. Next morning the judge
said: “Whereas, according to the accounts kept by the Department of
Customs, the duties and expenses due the king on the cigarettes
unlawfully sold by the prisoner for years past aggregate two
thousand three hundred and ten lire; and whereas, the savings of the
prisoner for ten years past, and at the moment deposited to his
individual credit in the Banco Napoli, amount to exactly two thousand
three hundred and ten lire; therefore, it is ordered, that a sight draft
for the exact amount be drawn in favor of the king.” This would
entitle Gustavo to the pure air of the piazza; otherwise?—well,
otherwise not. Within a week Gustavo was again whirling his tray—a
little grayer, perhaps, and a little wiser; certainly poorer. Thus does a
tyrannical government oppress its people!
These caffès of the piazza, with their iced carafes, white napkins,
and little silver coffee-pots, are the caffès of the rich.
The caffè of the poor is sometimes afloat. No matter how early you
are out in the morning, this floating caffè—the cook-boat—has its fire
lighted, and the savory smell of its cuisine drifts over the lagoon, long
before your gondola rounds the Dogana. When you come alongside
you find a charcoal brazier heating a pan of savory fish and a large
pot of coffee, and near by a basketful of rolls, fresh and warm, from a
still earlier baker. There are peaches, too, and a hamper of figs. The
cook-boat is tended by two men; one cooks and serves, and the
other rows, standing in the stern, looking anxiously for customers,
and calling out in stentorian tones that all the delicacies of the
season are now being fried, broiled, and toasted, and that for the
infinitesimal sum of ten soldi you can breakfast like a doge.
If you are just out of the lagoon, your blood tingling with the touch of
the sea, your face aglow with your early morning bath, answer the
cry of one of these floating kitchens, and eat a breakfast with the
rising sun lighting your forehead and the cool breath of the lagoon
across your cheek. It may be the salt air and the early plunge that
make the coffee so savory, the fish and rolls so delicious, and the
fruit so refreshing; or it may be because the fish were wriggling in the
bottom of the boat half an hour earlier, the coffee only at the first
boiling, and the fruit, bought from a passing boat, still damp with the
night’s dew!
The caffè of the poorest is wherever there is a crowd. It generally
stands on three iron legs under one of the trees down the Via
Garibaldi, or over by the landing of the Dogana, or beneath the
shade of some awning, or up a back court. The old fellow who bends
over the hot earthen dish, supported on these legs, slowly stirring a
mess of kidneys or an indescribable stew, is cook, head waiter, and
proprietor all in one. Every now and then he fishes out some delicate
tidbit—a miniature octopus, perhaps (called fulpe), a little sea-horror,
all legs and claws, which he sprawls out on a bit of brown paper and
lays on the palm of your left hand, assuming, clearly, that you have
all the knives and forks that you need, on your right.
Once in a while a good Bohemian discovers some out-of-the-way
place up a canal or through a twisted calle that delights him with its
cuisine, its cellar, or its cosiness, and forever after he preëmpts it as
his caffè. I know half a dozen such discoveries—one somewhere
near San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, where the men play bowls in a
long, narrow alley, under wide-spreading trees, cramped up between
high buildings; and another, off the Merceria, where the officers
smoke and lounge; and still another, quite my own—the Caffè
Calcina. This last is on the Rio San Vio, and looks out on the
Giudecca, just below San Rosario. You would never suspect it of
being a caffè at all, until you had dodged under the little roof of the
porch to escape the heat, and opening the side door found yourself
in a small, plainly furnished room with little marble-top tables, each
decorated with a Siamese-twin salt-cellar holding a pinch of salt and
of pepper. Even then it is a very common sort of caffè, and not at all
the place you would care to breakfast in twice; that is, not until you
had followed the demure waiter through a narrow passage and out
into a square patio splashed with yellow-green light and cooled by
overlacing vines. Then you realize that this same square patch of
ground is one of the few restful spots of the wide earth.
It is all open to the sky except for a great arbor of grape leaves
covering the whole area, beneath which, on the cool, moist ground,
stand half a dozen little tables covered with snow-white cloths. At
one side is a shelter, from behind which come certain mysterious
noises of fries and broils. All about are big, green-painted boxes of
japonicas, while at one end the oleanders thrust their top branches
through the overhanging leaves of the arbor, waving their blossoms
defiantly in the blazing sun. Beneath this grateful shelter you sit and
loaf and invite your soul, and your best friend, too, if he happens to
be that sort of a man.
After having congratulated yourself on your discovery and having
become a daily habitué of the delightful patio, you find that you have
really discovered the Grand Canal or the Rialto bridge. To your great
surprise, the Caffè Calcina has been the favorite resort of good
Bohemians for nearly a century. You learn that Turner painted his
sunset sketches from its upper windows, and that dozens of more
modern English painters have lived in the rooms above; that Whistler
and Rico and scores of others have broken bread and had
toothsome omelets under its vines; and, more precious than all, that
Ruskin and Browning have shared many a bottle of honest Chianti
with these same oleanders above their heads, and this, too, in the
years when the Sage of Brantwood was teaching the world to love
his Venice, and the great poet was singing songs that will last as
long as the language.
ON THE HOTEL STEPS
F you drink your early coffee as I do, in the garden under the
oleanders, overlooking the water-landing of the hotel, and
linger long enough over your fruit, you will conclude before
many days that a large part of the life of Venice can be
seen from the hotel steps. You may behold the great row of gondolas
at the traghetto near by, ranged side by side, awaiting their turn, and
here and there, tied to the spiles outside the line, the more fortunate
boats whose owners serve some sight-seer by the week, or some
native padrone by the month, and are thus free of the daily routine of
the traghetto, and free, too, from our old friend Joseph’s summoning
voice.
You will be delighted at the good-humor and good-fellowship which
animate this group of gondoliers; their ringing songs and hearty
laughter; their constant care of the boats, their daily sponging and
polishing; and now and then, I regret to say, your ears will be
assailed by a quarrel, so fierce, so loud, and so full of vindictive
energy, that you will start from your seat in instant expectation of the
gleam of a stiletto, until by long experience you learn how harmless
are both the bark and bite of a gondolier, and how necessary as a
safety-valve, to accused and accuser as well, is the unlimited air-
space of the Grand Canal.
You will also come into closer contact with Joseph, prince among
porters, and patron saint of this Traghetto of Santa Salute. There is
another Saint, of course, shaded by its trellised vines, framed in
tawdry gilt, protected from the weather by a wooden hood, and
lighted at night by a dim lamp hanging before it—but, for all that,
Joseph is supreme as protector, refuge, and friend.
Joseph, indeed, is more than this. He is the patron saint and father
confessor of every wayfarer, of whatever tongue. Should a copper-
colored gentleman mount the steps of the hotel landing, attired in
calico trousers, a short jacket of pea-green silk, and six yards of bath
toweling about his head, Joseph instantly addresses him in broken
Hindostanee, sending his rattan chairs and paper boxes to a room
overlooking the shady court, and placing a boy on the rug outside,
ready to spring when the copper-colored gentleman claps his hands.
Does another distinguished foreigner descend from the gondola,
attended by two valets with a block-tin trunk, half a score of hat-
boxes, bags, and bundles, four umbrellas, and a dozen sticks,
Joseph at once accosts him in most excellent English, and has
ordered a green-painted tub rolled into his room before he has had
time to reach the door of his apartment. If another equally
distinguished traveler steps on the marble slab, wearing a Bond
Street ulster, a slouch hat, and a ready-made summer suit, with
yellow shoes, and carrying an Alpine staff (so useful in Venice)
branded with illegible letters chasing each other spirally up and down
the wooden handle, Joseph takes his measure at a glance. He
knows it is his first trip “en Cook,” and that he will want the earth, and
instantly decides that so far as concerns himself he shall have it,
including a small, round, convenient little portable which he
immediately places behind the door to save the marble hearth. So
with the titled Frenchman, wife, maid, and canary bird; the haughty
Austrian, his sword in a buckskin bag; the stolid German with the
stout helpmate and one satchel, or the Spaniard with two friends and
no baggage at all.
Joseph knows them all—their conditions, wants, economics,
meannesses, escapades, and subterfuges. Does he not remember
how you haggled over the price of your room, and the row you made
when your shoes were mixed up with the old gentleman’s on the
floor above? Does he not open the door in the small hours, when
you slink in, the bell sounding like a tocsin at your touch? Is he not
rubbing his eyes and carrying the candle that lights you down to the
corridor door, the only exit from the hotel after midnight, when you
had hoped to escape by the garden, and dare not look up at the
balcony above?
Here also you will often meet the Professor. Indeed, he is
breakfasting with me in this same garden this very morning. It is the
first time I have seen him since the memorable day of the regatta,
when Pasquale won the prize and the old fellow lost his soldi.
He has laid aside his outing costume—the short jacket, beribboned
hat, and huge field-glass—and is gracing my table clothed in what he
is pleased to call his “garb of tuition,” worn to-day because of a pupil
who expects him at nine o’clock; “a horrid old German woman from
Prague,” he calls her. This garb is the same old frock-coat of many
summers, the well-ironed silk hat, and the limp glove dangling from
his hand or laid like a crumpled leaf on the cloth beside him. The
coat, held snug to the waist by a single button, always bulges out
over the chest, the two frogs serving as pockets. From these depths,
near the waist-line, the Professor now and then drags up a great silk
handkerchief, either red or black as the week’s wash may permit, for
I have never known of his owning more than two!
To-day, below the bulge of this too large handkerchief swells yet
another enlargement, to which my guest, tapping it significantly with
his finger-tips, refers in a most mysterious way as “a very great
secret,” but without unbosoming to me either its cause or its mystery.
When the cigarettes are lighted he drops his hand deep into his one-
buttoned coat, unloads the handkerchief, and takes out a little
volume bound in vellum, a book he had promised me for weeks. This
solves the mystery and effaces the bulge.
One of the delights of knowing the Professor well is to see him
handle a book that he loves. He has a peculiar way of smoothing the
sides before opening it, as one would a child’s hand, and of always
turning the leaves as though he were afraid of hurting the back,
caressing them one by one with his fingers, quite as a bird plumes its
feathers. And he is always bringing a new book to light; one of his
charming idiosyncrasies is the hunting about in odd corners for just
such odd volumes.
“Out of print now, my dear fellow. You can’t buy it for money. This is
the only copy in Venice that I could borrow for love. See the chapters
on these very fellows—these gondoliers,” pointing to the traghetto.
“Sometimes, when I hear their quarrels, I wonder if they ever
remember that their guild is as old as the days of the Doges, a fossil
survival, unique, perhaps, in the history of this or of any other
country.”
While the Professor nibbles at the crescents and sips his coffee,
pausing now and then to read me passages taken at random from
the little volume in his hands, I watch the procession of gondolas
from the traghetto, like a row of cabs taking their turn, as Joseph’s “a
una” or “due” rings out over the water. One after another they steal
noiselessly up and touch the water-steps, Joseph helping each party
into its boat: the German Baroness with the two poodles and a silk
parasol; the poor fellow from the Engadine, with the rugs and an
extra overcoat, his mother’s arm about him—not many more
sunshiny days for him; the bevy of joyous young girls in summer
dresses and sailor hats, and the two college boys in white flannels,
the chaperone in the next boat. “Ah, these sweet young Americans,
these naïve countrywomen of yours!” whispers the Professor; “how
exquisitely bold!” Last, the painter, with his trap and a big canvas,
which he lifts in as carefully as if it had a broken rib, and then turns
quickly face in; “an old dodge,” you say to yourself; “unfinished, of
course!”
Presently a tall, finely formed gondolier in dark blue, with a red sash,
whirls the ferro of his boat close to the landing-steps, and a graceful,
dignified woman, past middle life, but still showing traces of great
beauty, steps in, and sinks upon the soft cushions.
The Professor rises like a grand duke receiving a princess, brings
one arm to a salute, places the other over his heart, and makes a
bow that carries the conviction of profound respect and loyalty in its
every curve. The lady acknowledges it with a gracious bend of her
head, and a smile which shows her appreciation of its sincerity.
“An English lady of rank who spends her Octobers here,” says the
Professor, when he regains his seat. He had remained standing until
the gondola had disappeared—such old-time observances are part
of his religion.
“Did you notice her gondolier? That is Giovanni, the famous
oarsman. Let me tell you the most delicious story! Oh, the childish
simplicity of these men! You would say, would you not, that he was
about forty years of age? You saw, too, how broad and big he was?
Well, mon ami, not only is he the strongest oarsman in Venice, but
he has proved it, for he has won the annual regatta, the great one on
the Grand Canal, for five consecutive summers! This, you know,
gives him the title of ‘Emperor.’ Now, there is a most charming
Signora whom he has served for years,—she always spends her
summers here,—whom, I assure you, Giovanni idolizes, and over
whom he watches exactly as if she were both his child and his
queen. Well, one day last year,” here the Professor’s face cracked
into lines of suppressed mirth, “Giovanni asked for a day’s leave,
and went over to Mestre to bid good-by to some friends en route for
Milan. The Brindisi wine—the vina forte—oh, that devilish wine! you
know it!—had just reached Mestre. It only comes in September, and
lasts but a few weeks. Of course Giovanni must have his grand
outing, and three days later Signor Giovanni-the-Strong presented
himself again at the door of the apartment of his Signora, sober, but
limp as a rag. The Signora, grand dame as she was, refused to see
him, sending word by her maid that she would not hear a word from
him until the next day. Now, what do you think this great strong fellow
did? He went home, threw himself on the bed, turned his face to the
wall, and for half the night cried like a baby! Think of it! like a baby!
His wife could not get him to eat a mouthful.
“The next day, of course, the Signora forgave him. There was
nothing else to be done, for, as she said to me afterwards, ‘What?
Venice without Giovanni! Mon Dieu!’”
The Professor throws away the end of his last cigarette and begins
gathering up his hat and the one unmated, lonely glove. No living
soul ever yet saw him put this on. Sometimes he thrusts in his two
fingers, as if fully intending to bury his entire hand, and then you see
an expression of doubt and hesitancy cross his face, denoting a
change of mind, as he crumples it carelessly, or pushes it into his
coat-tail pocket to keep company with its fictitious mate.
At this moment Espero raises his head out of his gondola
immediately beneath us. Everything is ready, he says: the sketch
trap, extra canvas, fresh siphon of seltzer, ice, fiasco of Chianti,
Gorgonzola, all but the rolls, which he will get at the baker’s on our
way over to the Giudecca, where I am to work on the sketch begun
yesterday.
“Ah, that horrid old German woman from Prague!” sighs the
Professor. “If I could only go with you!”
OPEN-AIR MARKETS
OMETIMES, in early autumn, on the lagoon behind the
Redentore, you may overtake a curious craft, half barge,
half gondola, rowed by a stooping figure in cowl and frock.
Against the glow of the fading twilight this quaint figure, standing in
the stern of his flower-laden boat, swaying to the rhythm of his oar,
will recall so vividly the time when that other
“Dumb old servitor ... went upward with the flood,”
that you cannot help straining your eyes in a vain search for the fair
face of the lily maid of Astolat hidden among the blossoms. Upon
looking closer you discover that it is only the gardener of the convent
grounds, on his way to the market above the Rialto.

PONTE PAGLIA ... NEXT THE BRIDGE OF SIGHS

If you continue on, crossing the Giudecca, or if you happen to be
coming from Murano or the Lido, you will pass dozens of other
boats, loaded to the water’s edge with baskets upon baskets of
peaches, melons, and figs, or great heaps of green vegetables,
dashed here and there with piles of blood-red tomatoes. All these
boats are pointing their bows towards the Ponte Paglia, the bridge
on the Riva between the Doges’ Palace and the prison, the one next
the Bridge of Sighs. Here, in the afternoons preceding market days,
they unship their masts or rearrange their cargoes, taking off the top
baskets if too high to clear the arch. Ponte Paglia is the best point of
entrance from the Grand Canal, because it is the beginning of that
short cut, through a series of smaller canals, to the fruit market
above the Rialto bridge. The market opens at daybreak.
Many of these boats come from Malamocco, on the south, a small
island this side of Chioggia, and from beyond the island known as
the Madonna of the Seaweed, named after a curious figure sheltered
by a copper umbrella. Many of them come from Torcello, that most
ancient of the Venetian settlements, and from the fruit-raising country
back of it, for all Torcello is one great orchard, with every landing-
wharf piled full of its products. Here you can taste a fig so delicately
ripe that it fairly melts in your mouth, and so sensitive that it withers
and turns black almost with the handling. Here are rose-pink
peaches the size of small melons, and golden melons the size of
peaches. Here are pomegranates that burst open from very
lusciousness, and white grapes that hang in masses, and melons
and plums in heaps, and all sorts of queer little round things that you
never taste but once, and never want to taste again.
These fruit gardens and orchards in the suburbs of Venice express
the very waste and wantonness of the climate. There is no order in
setting out the fruit, no plan in growing, no system in gathering. The
trees thrive wherever they happen to have taken root—here a peach,
here a pear, there a pomegranate. The vines climb the trunks and
limbs, or swing off to tottering poles and crumbling walls. The
watermelons lie flat on their backs in the blazing sun, flaunting their
big leaves in your face, their tangled creepers in everybody’s way
and under everybody’s feet. The peaches cling in matted clusters,
and the figs and plums weigh down the drooping branches.
If you happen to have a lira about you, and own besides a bushel
basket, you can exchange the coin for that measure of peaches. Two
lire will load your gondola half full of melons; three lire will pack it
with grapes; four lire—well, you must get a larger boat.
When the boats are loaded at the orchards and poled through the
grass-lined canals, reaching the open water of the lagoon, escaping
the swarms of naked boys begging backsheesh of fruit from their
cargoes, you will notice that each craft stops at a square box,
covered by an awning and decorated with a flag, anchored out in the
channel, or moored to a cluster of spiles. This is the Dogana of the
lagoon, and every basket, crate, and box must be inspected and
counted by the official in the flat cap with the tarnished gilt band, who
commands this box of a boat, for each individual peach, plum, and
pear must help pay its share of the public debt.
This floating custom-house is one of many beads, strung at intervals
a mile apart, completely encircling Venice. It is safe to say that
nothing that crows, bleats, or clucks, nothing that feeds, clothes, or is
eaten, ever breaks through this charmed circle without leaving some
portion of its value behind. This creditor takes its pound of flesh the
moment it is due, and has never been known to wait.
Where the deep-water channels are shifting, and there is a
possibility of some more knowing and perhaps less honest market
craft slipping past in the night, a government deputy silently steals
over the shallow lagoon in a rowboat, sleeping in his blanket, his
hand on his musket, and rousing at the faintest sound of rowlock or
sail. Almost hourly one of these night-hawks overhauls other strollers
of the lagoon in the by-passages outside the city limits—some
smuggler, with cargo carefully covered, or perhaps a pair of lovers in
a gondola with too closely drawn tenda. There is no warning sound
to the unwary; only the gurgle of a slowly-moving oar, then the
muzzle of a breech-loader thrust in one’s eyes, behind which frowns
an ugly, determined face, peering from out the folds of a heavy boat-
cloak. It is the deputy’s way of asking for smuggled cigarettes, but it
is so convincing a way as to admit of no discussion. Ever afterward
the unfortunate victim, if he be of honest intent, cannot only detect a
police-boat from a fishing yawl, but remembers also to keep a light
burning in his lamp-socket forward, as evidence of his honesty.
When the cargoes of the market boats are inspected, the duties
paid, and the passage made under Ponte Paglia, or through the
many nameless canals if the approach is made from the Campo
Santo side of the city, the boats swarm up to the fruit market above
the Rialto, rounding up one after another, and discharging their
contents like trucks at a station, the men piling the baskets in great
mounds on the broad stone quay.

THE FRUIT MARKET ABOVE THE RIALTO

After the inhabitants have pounced upon these heaps and mounds
and pyramids of baskets and crates, and have carried them away,
the market is swept and scoured as clean as a china plate, not even
a peach-pit being left to tell the tale of the morning. Then this greater
market shrinks into the smaller one, the little fruit market of the
Rialto, which is never closed, day or night.
This little market, or, rather, the broad street forming its area,—broad
for this part of Venice,—is always piled high with the products of