Lang 2013

You might also like

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 9

bs_bs_banner

International Journal of Consumer Studies ISSN 1470-6423

Drivers of clothing disposal in the US: An exploration


of the role of personal attributes and behaviours in
frequent disposal
Chunmin Lang1, Cosette M. Armstrong1 and Laura A. Brannon2
1
Department of Design, Housing, and Merchandising, College of Human Sciences, Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, OK, USA
2
Psychology Department, Kansas State University, Manhattan, KS, USA

Keywords Abstract
Clothing disposal, drivers, fashion trend
sensitivity, fashion shopping frequency, Clothing products remain important in today’s consumer culture, but the sustainability of
quality consciousness, price consciousness. that consumption is questionable, as it often leads to excess waste. The purpose of this
study was to explore the drivers of clothing waste, and to investigate the influence of
Correspondence demographic factors and personal attributes on disposal frequency. An online survey was
Chunmin Lang, 431 Human Sciences, conducted to over 500 men and women in the US from three different generational cohorts.
Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, OK The survey investigated fashion trend sensitivity, shopping frequency, quality and price
74078, USA. consciousness as well as demographic factors, utilizing 5-point Likert scales. On the basis
E-mail: chunmin.lang@okstate.edu of literature, seven hypotheses were developed. Correlational analysis, independent t-test
and one-way analysis of variance were conducted to test the hypotheses. Results indicate
doi: 10.1111/ijcs.12060 that fashion trend sensitivity, fashion shopping frequency, higher incomes, younger age
groups and being female are all positively correlated with frequent clothing disposal.
Interestingly, quality consciousness was positively correlated to frequent clothing disposal,
while price consciousness was negatively related to clothing disposal frequency. This study
contributes to the literature by providing a more specific examination of the drivers of
frequent clothing disposal and providing empirical evidence to support previous explora-
tory studies.

shopping frequency, quality and price consciousness in disposal


Introduction rates, empirical evidence is lacking.
Approximately 10–20% of textiles from the fashion industry result The purpose of this study was to explore the strength of these
in waste (Textile Exchange, 2012), a growing environmental issue potential influences on clothing disposal frequency, investigating
in the world. Comparison of consumer justifications for the dis- the influence of personal attributes and behaviours on disposal
posal of textiles during the 2000s with the late 1990s denotes an frequency. Hence, this study focused on disposal frequency with
increase in quality issues, infrequent wear and the need to make underlying motivations, rather than disposal patterns. The research
room for new purchases (Domina and Koch, 1999; Hawley, 2000; questions to investigate were proposed as follows:
Birtwistle and Moore, 2007; Ha-Brookshire and Hodges, 2009; RQ1: Does clothing disposal frequency increase with fashion
Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009). These are plausible consequences trend sensitivity and shopping frequency?
of the prevailing fast fashion system. Admittedly, the increased RQ2: Is there a negative relationship between quality or price
availability and affordability of fashion have dramatically short- consciousness and clothing disposal frequency?
ened the average life of clothing (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007; RQ3: What is the relationship between generational cohorts,
Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010). gender, income or education and clothing disposal frequency?
Arguably, industry strategies to reduce waste must be devel- The findings of this study may provide a better understanding
oped, but more research is needed to understand the consumer about the relationship between consumer attributes and clothing
attributes influencing frequent disposal. Unfortunately, most disposal. Further, this understanding may contribute to future
research has focused on reasons, methods and the recycling pro- strategies used to deter disposal.
cesses associated with clothing disposition. Additionally, most
study samples have been significantly biased to females, primarily
young females, making the study of demographic factors like age
Literature review
and gender desirable. Further, although some assumptions have The aspects of consumption behaviour may be classified as the
been made about the role of fashion trend sensitivity, fashion stages of pre-purchase, purchase and post-purchase (Birtwistle

706 International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
C. Lang et al. Drivers of frequent clothing disposal

and Moore, 2007). Sustainable consumption not only refers to disposal behaviours. Furthermore, the features of low quality and
sustainability in purchasing, but it also refers to sustainable activi- low price result in devaluation of garments and more frequent
ties in the post-purchase period, which involves using, reusing, clothing disposal. Recent exploratory studies confirm that there is
recycling and discarding (Ha-Brookshire and Hodges, 2009). a strong relationship between fast fashion and disposal rates
Dispose of clothing occurs when the garment leaves the posses- (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009; Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010). The
sion of an individual who anticipates no further wearing of it strategy of increasing the number of fashion seasons paired with
(Winakor, 1969). There is some evidence to suggest that fashion lower prices has caused consumers to be more likely to purchase
trend sensitivity, frequent shopping for fashion and low priced apparel products with a higher rate of frequency, and this behav-
goods may encourage premature disposal (Birtwistle and Moore, iour contributes to the accumulation and growth of unwanted
2007; Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009; Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010). clothing items (Joung and Park-Poaps, 2013).
Conversely, quality consciousness has been proposed as a panacea
to disposal in the sustainable fashion literature (Fletcher, 2008),
Personal attributes and consumer
and therefore, has a negative relationship with disposal frequency.
demographics
Understanding the factors that have an impact on clothing disposal
behaviours may provide a foundation for the development of strat- Quality and price are two major factors which affect the decision
egies, which may contribute to the discouragement of premature making processes of consumers. Higher prices might lead to lower
clothing disposal. The personal attributes of fashion trend sensi- purchase probabilities (Lichtenstein et al., 1993). In this study, the
tivity and demographics are factors that motivate and influence term price consciousness indicates the sensitivity and attention
clothing disposal habits, and they are reviewed in the following given to the importance of price in regard to purchasing products.
sections. Similarly, quality consciousness represents a consumer’s percep-
tion of quality, which indicates the amount of attention consumers
give to the importance of quality when purchasing products. We
Fast fashion and trend sensitivity
will use these two terms to indicate the degree to which consumers
Fashion trend sensitivity is a factor that may contribute to a piece focus on low prices or high quality in their clothing purchase and
of clothing being discarded and a new article of clothing being discard behaviours. In general, young consumers prefer to buy
bought, before the original garment has been fully utilized or lower priced, but fashionable fast fashion clothing with high fre-
recycling/reusing options have been considered (Winakor, 1969). quency, whereas older adults pay more attention to quality, rather
Consumers with high fashion trend sensitivity are usually fashion than price (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). These differences lead
opinion leaders. Often, they are the first to adopt new opinions and to varying disposal habits, accordingly.
trends and the first to broadcast the latest fashion styles, which Winakor (1969) indicated that the length of time that clothing is
influence others to buy new fashion items (Koch and Domina, used and the frequency of its wear by consumers before being
1997). To retain their fashion leadership, these trend setters con- discarded are influenced by a variety of factors, which include age,
sistently find new styles of clothing while old clothing finds personal values and the quantity of clothing already stored in the
extinction. Law et al. (2004) found a linear relationship between wardrobes of consumers. Also, consumer demographic factors,
fashion trends and fashion consumption. The clothing consump- such as age, gender, education and income, have an influence on
tion process includes acquisition, inventory and discard; inventory disposal methods and environmental attitudes (Harrell and
is identified as the stock of garments owned by an individual at any McConocha, 1992; Shim, 1995). Koch and Domina (1999) indi-
given time (Winakor, 1969). Therefore, the quantity of inventory is cated that fashion trends and social status are two additional
a factor which should be considered in the study of discard behav- factors that contribute to high and wasteful disposal rates of
iours due to the fact that greater quantities of clothing may mean wealthy consumers, whereas size and fit of clothing are factors
that storage space will become limited; thus, more clothing will be which contribute to the discarding behaviours among lower
discarded. income consumers. Young consumers are expected to have posi-
Consumers are becoming more and more fashion sensitive and tive attitudes towards new fashion trends, and they are more sus-
more demanding of an accelerated cycle of new fashion products ceptible to fast fashion purchases of clothing than are older
as time passes (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010; Ritch and Schroder, consumers (Law et al., 2004; Birtwistle and Moore, 2007).
2012). They want styles to change quickly and to see new mer-
chandise at affordable prices in their favourite stores at an ever
accelerating rate (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009). In order to reach
Hypotheses development
and maintain profitability and competitiveness, time is becoming The most frequently cited reasons for the discard of clothing
an increasingly important factor to fashion retailers (Bruce and products by consumers are ‘out of fashion’ or ‘fashion change’
Daly, 2006). More apparel and textile products are produced and concerns (Koch and Domina, 1997, 1999; Domina and Koch,
they make their way onto store shelves in a much shorter period of 1999, 2001, 2002; Hawley, 2000; Birtwistle and Moore, 2007;
time than they ever had before. Fashion retailers produce lower Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009; Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010).
quality items that last a shorter period of time, which is known as Therefore, consumers who tend to follow fashion trends usually
fast fashion. discard their used clothing when it is out of fashion. Potential
Fast fashion retailers encourage consumers to visit their favour- relationships were also found to exist between recycling attitudes
ite stores more frequently by promoting advertisement campaigns and fashion leadership (Koch and Domina, 1997; Bianchi and
which send the message of ‘Here Today, Gone Tomorrow’ Birtwistle, 2010). However, recent studies are lacking in the
(Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010, p. 166), leading to more frequent area of how fashion trend sensitivity affects clothing disposal

International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714 707


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
Drivers of frequent clothing disposal C. Lang et al.

frequency. According to available literature, a positive correlation which indicates that female consumers purchase clothing items
exists between fashion innovativeness and clothing disposal pat- more frequently than males. It is probable that females are more
terns (Koch and Domina, 1997; Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010). partial to fashion trends than males, which causes the current
Therefore, we propose the following hypothesis: clothing of female consumers to become out of fashion at a more
H1: Consumers with high fashion trend sensitivity dispose of accelerated rate than it does for male consumers.
clothing more frequently than those with lower fashion trend In general, young people prefer to buy a higher quantity of lower
sensitivity. price, but fashionable clothing frequently, in order to keep up with
Compared to food consumption, in which food disappears when the latest trends, as opposed to older adults who would prefer to buy
it is consumed, clothing consumption provides a different experi- higher quality clothing products with less concern for quantity
ence for consumers (Winakor, 1969). Clothing consumption is (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010). Some young females swap or trade
more complicated because the product still exists and keeps taking their clothing with friends because they do not want to wear fashion
up space unless it is disposed of. When consumers shop with the clothing for long periods of time (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009).
intention of keeping up with fashion trends, they are more likely to Older people, on the other hand, wear their clothes for a longer
dispose of their old clothing in order to make space for the new period of time and are not as quick as younger people are to discard
items. In previous research by Ha-Brookshire and Hodges (2009), them because of concerns for style, fit or worn condition (Domina
creating more space in the wardrobes of consumers in order to and Koch, 2001). According to Shaul (2007), generational cohorts,
store new clothing items was identified as the primary motivation such as baby boomers (born 1946–1964), generation X (born
for participants to dispose of their unwanted clothing. Fast fashion 1965–1979) and generation Y (born 1980–1994), vary in their
garments are generally designed to last only a short period of time, attitudes and behaviours. Thus, we study three generations of
which leads to an increased frequency in the purchase of new clothing disposal frequencies. The literature has shown that age,
products (Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2012). However, because closet gender and income influence attitudes towards clothing disposal
space is limited, clothing disposal is necessary to maintain this habits; therefore, we propose the following hypotheses:
limited space. Although high frequency consumption and H4a: Generation Y clothing disposal frequency is higher than
increased sales are good for an economy, the downside is that it generation X; Generation X clothing disposal frequency is
also produces more waste. Therefore, we propose the following higher than baby boomers.
hypothesis: H4b: Females dispose of clothing more frequently than
H2: Fashion shopping frequency has a positive relationship males.
with clothing disposal frequency. H4c: Income is positively related to clothing disposal
Quality and price are two major factors that consumers would frequency.
consider when purchasing clothing products. Generally, price may Upon the hypotheses discussed above, Figure 1 presents our
be viewed as an indicator of quality, which influences a consum- conceptual model of consumer clothing disposal behaviour.
er’s purchasing choice (Gabor and Granger, 1966). When consum-
ers are more price-conscious, their need for quality is not
necessarily satisfied at the same time. On the contrary, consumers
Research methods
who are more quality-conscious may not be price-conscious. It is
Sampling and data collection
probable that price and quality consciousness, as related to cloth-
ing product purchases, may have a direct influence on disposal Data were collected in March 2012 in the US. A convenience
habits as well. In general, we may conclude that the price of new sampling method was utilized; an online survey to a consumer
clothing has an influence on the disposal patterns of the consumer panel, yielding 555 usable responses from 794 questionnaires
(Joung and Park-Poaps, 2013). Likewise, consumers are more collected with a response rate of 69.9%. Each respondent was
likely to hold on to expensive clothing for longer periods of time, given a brief description of the study, explaining Institutional
even if they no longer wear it (Birtwistle and Moore, 2007; Review Board approval and the implications of his/her participa-
Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009; Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010). In the tion. Three generational cohorts were examined in this research:
fast fashion model, price and quality are comparatively lower, and baby boomers, generation X and generation Y (Shaul, 2007).
the throwaway clothing attitude grows accordingly (Birtwistle and To develop a sample representative from the online survey in
Moore, 2007). We may conclude that the quality and purchase this study, the researchers purchased a consumer panel of the
price of clothing have an influence on consumer attitudes towards target population from an online research firm in the US. The firm
clothing disposal. Thus, we propose the following hypotheses: solicited responses to the online survey on the researchers’ behalf,
H3a: Consumer quality consciousness is negatively related to sending the survey link in an email invitation. Individuals invited
clothing disposal frequency. to participate in the study were pre-validated and had a pre-
H3b: Consumer price consciousness is negatively related to existing relationship with the firm, and therefore, also received an
clothing disposal frequency. incentive through the firm. The survey was designed and admin-
When comparing lower income consumers with higher income istered from the researcher’s university, providing ready access
consumers, the latter have a greater financial ability to purchase and control of the data collection. The researchers placed quota
more new clothing, which may lead to more frequent clothing limits on each of the generational cohort age ranges to ensure a
disposal. Moreover, gender and age also have an influence on balanced sample for analysis. Utilizing a ‘by-invitation-only’
consumer disposal behaviours (Koch and Domina, 1997; Domina panel recruitment model enabled us to yield the highest level of
and Koch, 1999, 2001). Compared with the market for men’s panel quality and representation, while guarding against duplica-
clothing, the fashion trends in women’s clothing change rapidly, tion, fraudulent respondents and professional survey takers.

708 International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
C. Lang et al. Drivers of frequent clothing disposal

RQ1: Fashion
trend and shopping

Fashion trend Fashion shopping


sensitivity frequency

H1 Positively H2 Positively
Quality
consciousness
H3a Negatively
RQ2: Quality
Clothing disposal
and price
frequency
Price H3b Negatively
consciousness

H4a Negatively H4b Positively H4c Positively

Consumer gender
Consumer age (Female >Male) Consumer income

RQ3: Demographic
factors

Figure 1 Conceptual model of drivers of frequent clothing disposal.

Instrument development Fashion shopping frequency scale


The questionnaire included five parts concerning fashion trend Part II utilized a three-item scale related to fashion shopping
sensitivity, fashion shopping frequency, price and quality con- frequency, such as, ‘I purchase new clothing more often than my
sciousness, clothing disposal frequency and demographic infor- friends’, ‘I buy new clothing often, even if I don’t need it’, and ‘I
mation. Multi-item scales were developed to measure fashion make clothing purchases only when needed’.
trend sensitivity, fashion shopping frequency, quality and price
consciousness, and clothing disposal frequency, utilizing a 5-point
Price and quality consciousness
Likert scale of 1 = ‘strongly disagree’ to 5 = ‘strongly agree.’
Some items were developed for our study, while others were Part III included nine items related to quality and price conscious-
borrowed or modified from previous research. ness. Quality consciousness was measured by five items. Price
Because of the lack of research regarding clothing disposal consciousness was measured by four items. These items were
frequency, in order to evaluate respondents’ comprehension and suggested by Bakewell and Mitchell (2003) and Littrell et al.
the clarity of the instrument, a pilot study was conducted with (2005).
students at the first and second authors’ university before launch-
ing the final questionnaire. Thirty-two usable responses were col-
Clothing disposal frequency
lected with Cronbach’s alpha of 0.7 above on all scales.
Part IV contained eight items measuring clothing disposal fre-
quency. These scale items were suggested in Domina and Koch
Fashion trend sensitivity scale
(1998, 1999), and Bianchi and Birtwistle (2010).
Part I utilized 15 items related to fashion trend sensitivity. These Part II and Part IV both included a multiple choice question to
scale items were adopted from previous literature (Domina and measure consumers’ purchasing and disposal frequency, including
Koch, 1998; Bakewell et al., 2006; Park et al., 2006; Bianchi and ‘monthly’, ‘several times a year’, ‘once or twice a year’ or ‘not at
Birtwistle, 2010). all’. Participants also reported their demographic information,

International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714 709


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
Drivers of frequent clothing disposal C. Lang et al.

Table 1 Respondent’s demographics more fashion sensitive than generation X (P = 0.003) and baby
boomers respondents (P < 0.001). However, there was no statisti-
n = 555
cally significant difference between generation X and baby
Demographics %
boomers.
Age Not surprisingly, the result of H2 showed that participants who
18–33 32.4 generally purchased more clothing were also more likely to
34–47 33 dispose of it more frequently (r = 0.42, P < 0.001). Therefore, H2
48–66 34.6 was supported. Surprisingly, the results of H3 indicated that there
Education was a positive relationship between quality consciousness and
Did not graduate high school 0.2 clothing disposal frequency (r = 0.24, P < 0.001). Thus, H3a was
High school graduate 5.4
not supported. On the contrary, consumer’s price consciousness
Some college 23.8
was negatively related to clothing disposal frequency (r = −0.13,
College graduate 47.7
P < 0.01). Therefore, H3b was supported. Moreover, independent
Master/MBA 18.4
sample t-test revealed that females were more concerned about
PhD 3.6
Other 0.9
price than males, but no significant difference between males and
Gender
females on quality consciousness was found.
Male 46.5 The results of H4 suggested that females disposed of clothing
Female 53.5 more frequently than males (r = 0.21, P < 0.001). Similarly, the
Annual household income findings indicated that participants with higher incomes disposed
<US $19,999 4.8 of clothing more frequently than those with lower incomes
US $20,000–US $ 39,999 13.9 (r = 0.12, P < 0.01). Somewhat surprisingly, there was no signifi-
US $40,000–US $ 59,999 16.4 cant relationship found between age or education and disposal
US $60,000–US $ 79,999 19.8 frequency (r = 0.02 and −0.05 respectively). Therefore, H4a was
US $80,000–US $ 99,999 13.9 not supported, but H4b and H4c were both supported. Further, a
>US $100,000 31.2 one-way ANOVA also indicated that there was no significant dif-
ference among the three generations on price consciousness and
quality consciousness. The influence of demographics on personal
including age, education, gender and annual household income attributes is presented in Table 4.
(See Table 1). Furthermore, regarding the association with purchasing behav-
iour, participants who were more sensitive to fashion trends tend
to purchase more clothing than those who were less sensitive to
Data analysis
trends (r = 0.75, P < 0.001). Participants who were more con-
For the analysis of the data, descriptive statistics, correlational cerned about the quality of their clothing also tended to purchase
analysis, independent t-test and one-way analysis of variance more clothing (r = 0.27, P < 0.001). As predicted, women
(ANOVA) were conducted to test the hypotheses and differences (r = 0.36, P < 0.001) and younger people (r = −0.12, P < 0.001)
of gender and age groups on fashion trend sensitivity, price con- tended to purchase clothing more frequently, and persons with
sciousness and quality consciousness. Descriptive statistics, scale greater income tended to purchase more clothing than those with
reliabilities, items, means and standard deviations are presented in less income (r = 0.08, P < 0.07).
Table 2. In sum, the findings of the relationship between fashion shop-
The reliability of the construct measures was analysed using ping frequency with fashion trend sensitivity, quality conscious-
Cronbach’s alpha reliability. The scales exhibited relatively high ness, gender and income provide further support to the hypotheses
reliability coefficients with all Cronbach’s alpha scores over 0.7. in this paper from the point of view of fashion shopping.
In order to keep the items in the same direction, some items were
reverse scored (see Table 2).
Discussion and implications
An increasing volume of textile waste is being produced, pur-
Results
chased and disposed of in landfill sites, posing a significant envi-
The hypotheses were tested through correlational analysis (see ronmental threat (Morgan and Birtwistle, 2009). Indeed, the
Table 3). The results of H1 suggest that participants who were current rapid changes in fashion and low prices for new clothing
more sensitive to fashion trends dispose of clothing more fre- have increased the rate of disposal of unwanted clothing (Joung
quently than those less sensitive to trends (r = 0.45, P < 0.001). and Park-Poaps, 2013). The relationship between clothing con-
Therefore, H1 was supported. To further understand the influence sumption and disposal in the current study is unmistakable, for
of age and gender on fashion trend sensitivity, an independent which some personal attributes and behaviours provide explana-
sample t-test revealed a statistically significant difference between tion about certain consumer groups and instances where this envi-
females and males on fashion trend sensitivity, which indicated ronmental challenge is aggravated.
that females were more fashion sensitive. Furthermore, a one-way According to the findings, consumers who are sensitive to
ANOVA indicated that a significant difference was also found fashion trends also dispose of their unwanted clothing more fre-
among age groups in fashion trend sensitivity. The follow-up quently than those who are less sensitive to fashion trends. This
Scheffe post hoc test revealed that generation Y respondents were is especially the case for young and female consumers. This is

710 International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
C. Lang et al. Drivers of frequent clothing disposal

Table 2 Cronbach’s alpha and descriptive statistics of scale items

Items Mean SD α

Fashion trend sensitivity 0.93


I think I am fashionable 3.33 0.97
I am usually the first to know the latest fashion trends 2.44 1.03
a
Usually, I buy clothing only when I need it 3.43 1.16
I am interested in shopping at fashion specialty stores rather than department stores for my fashion needs 2.61 1.07
I am usually the first among my friends to buy the latest styles 2.30 1.09
a
I hardly ever shop for trendy clothing 3.14 1.18
If I find a trendy clothing item, I would be interested in buying it 3.12 0.94
Friends regard me as a good source of fashion advice 2.67 1.14
I like to buy new clothing that just came out 2.72 1.11
I usually try to be different from others by wearing fashion clothing 2.57 1.09
a
I don’t like to follow trends; I wear what I like 3.92 0.89
Compared to my friends I own more of the latest fashion styles 2.65 1.07
I usually have one or more outfits of the very latest styles 2.66 1.12
a
I often turn to others for fashion advice 2.63 1.03
I often influence the types of clothing styles my friends buy 2.39 1.04
Fashion shopping frequency 0.86
I purchase new clothing more often than my friends 2.73 1.07
I buy new clothing often, even I don’t need it 2.50 1.18
a
I make clothing purchases only when needed 3.34 1.14
Quality consciousness 0.737
I care more about the quality of clothing than price 3.39 0.90
I make a special effort to choose the very best quality clothing 3.31 0.91
a
In general, quality is not the first factor I look for when I shopping 3.32 0.98
I usually buy high quality brands 3.30 0.93
I care a lot about fabric quality when I buy new clothing 3.72 0.79
Price consciousness 0.722
I am very price conscious rather than quality conscious when buying clothing 3.25 0.95
I buy clothing on sale as much as possible 4.16 0.81
I look very carefully to find the best value for the money when purchasing clothing 4.07 0.82
I usually buy the lower-price clothing products 2.88 1.01
Clothing disposal frequency 0.75
I probably discard unwanted clothing more often than others 2.43 0.99
a
I usually hang on to clothing, even if I don’t wear it anymore 2.61 0.97
I generally discard clothing when it is out of fashion 2.42 0.99
a
I rarely dispose of clothing 2.78 1.12
When my closet gets too full, I will discard unwanted clothing 3.64 0.90
I typically dispose of clothing when I am bored with it 2.70 1.03
I usually discard clothing when it doesn’t fit anymore 3.49 1.02
I typically discard clothing only when it is damaged or worn out 3.37 1.06
a
Reserve scored. α, Cronbach’s alpha.

Table 3 Results of correlational analysis for the hypotheses

Result of
Hypotheses R P hypotheses

H1: Consumers with high fashion trend sensitivity dispose of clothing more frequently than those with 0.45 <0.001 Supported
lower fashion trend sensitivity.
H2: Fashion shopping frequency has a positive relationship with clothing disposal frequency. 0.42 <0.001 Supported
H3a: Consumer quality consciousness is negatively related to clothing disposal frequency. 0.24 <0.001 Not supported
H3b: Consumer price consciousness is negatively related to clothing disposal frequency. −0.13 <0.01 Supported
H4a: Generation Y clothing disposal frequency is higher than generation X; Generation X clothing disposal 0.02 – Not supported
frequency is higher than baby boomers.
H4b: Females dispose of clothing more frequently than males. 0.21 <0.001 Supported
H4c: Income is positively related to clothing disposal frequency. 0.12 <0.01 Supported

P, P-value; R, correlation coefficient.

International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714 711


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
Drivers of frequent clothing disposal C. Lang et al.

Table 4 Influence of gender and generational


Fashion trend sensitivity Price consciousness Quality consciousness
cohorts on personal attributes
Mean SD Mean SD Mean SD

Gender
Male 2.40 0.69 3.53 0.62 3.42 0.60
Female 2.94 0.70 3.64 0.69 3.40 0.65
(t) −9.088*** −1.979* 0.317
Age
18–33 2.89 0.61 3.66 0.70 3.36 0.64
34–47 2.69 0.53 3.54 0.68 3.41 0.64
48–66 2.58 0.51 3.56 0.61 3.45 0.62
(F) 15.006*** 1.697 0.967

*P < 0.05; ***P < 0.001.

consistent with previous studies that have identified fashion trends respondents live by a more rigorous standard that becomes evident
as well as boredom and closet cleaning as drivers of disposal when they consider whether or not their clothing is ruined or worn
(Domina and Koch, 1999, 2002; Hawley, 2000; Birtwistle and out, and therefore, are quicker to dispose of them. Product devel-
Moore, 2007; Ha-Brookshire and Hodges, 2009; Morgan and opers who market high quality clothing might consider methods of
Birtwistle, 2009; Bianchi and Birtwistle, 2010). Additionally, con- retention by offering maintenance agreements or repair services to
sumers who report themselves as frequent shoppers of clothing, maintain these garments (Armstrong and Lang, 2013). Coopera-
also cite a higher frequency of clothing disposal than those who tion with second-hand clothing retailers might also help high
say they do not shop as frequently. Unsurprisingly, a positive quality clothing retailers make a contribution to clothing recy-
relationship between fashion trend sensitivity and frequent shop- cling. This idea could be sold by appealing to their high-end
ping is also found. customers with discounts for future clothing purchases by drop-
These findings suggest that consumers who frequently revise ping off their unwanted, but still good quality clothing during their
their wardrobes with new purchases are driven to do so as a normal shopping trips. This would present a win-win-win strategy
response to changing fashion trends (Koch and Domina, 1997; for the clothing retailers, consumers and second-hand retailers.
Law et al., 2004). This accelerated rate of purchase behaviour may Another point to consider, however, is the survey items utilized to
be a major contributor to serious environmental problems. Argu- measure this factor. It was largely left to the respondent to decide
ably, the fashion industry’s insistence on constant change and what ‘quality’ meant, with the exception of one item that specifi-
economic growth does not come without its hazards. But, must cally addressed fabric. Therefore, an interesting area of further
this frequent wardrobe revision always be associated with a sub- research would be to investigate the specific product attributes
sequent increase in disposal? As product developers who market consumers, across different age groups, associated with quality
trendy fashion or fast fashion begin to consider the implications of and how those attributes may influence disposal decisions.
their business model on the environment, alternative design and In terms of price, respondents who say they are more concerned
merchandising strategies that can accommodate the consumer’s about purchasing clothing at a reasonable price also report they
need for newness with less consumption and disposal should be tend to dispose of their clothing less frequently than those who are
the goal (Fletcher and Grose, 2012). Strategies like design for not as concerned with cost. This is especially the case for female
multifunction, retailer-facilitated swap programmes, and redesign respondents. This relationship seems plausible as consumers who
services may be financially lucrative for the brand, be environ- wish to make their dollar count may be more likely to make the
mentally beneficial, and offer consumers some viable methods to most of what they own, resisting disposal. Similarly, Bianchi and
satisfy their desire for new styles (Black, 2013). Young women Birtwistle (2010) found that consumers were more likely to retain
may be the ideal initial focus of these efforts, as they report a expensive clothing, even if they no longer wore it, although other
higher sensitivity to fashion trends as well as more frequent shop- research related to product attachment has found that market value
ping and clothing disposal (Law et al., 2004). More research is is seldom cited as a determinant of product retention (Schifferstein
needed to understand this particular consumer group’s willingness and Zwartkruis-Pelgrim, 2008). In the current study’s research
to alter their consumption activities if these new models become design, it is difficult to discern the relationship between what is
available. retained due to price consciousness and its rate of utilization, an
Further, consistent with the previous research that confirms the area that begs further research. Nevertheless, disposal reduction
influence of product characteristics like condition, durability and may be enhanced through value-added design and merchandising
initial cost on disposal behaviours (Hanson, 1980), the current strategies that emphasize good price for the product. Notably,
study finds relationships between factors like quality and price and price increases also appear to slow consumption (Lichtenstein
disposal frequency. Surprisingly, these findings show that respond- et al., 1993); a value proposition most amenable by older consum-
ents who report that they are more concerned with the quality of ers (Bhardwaj and Fairhurst, 2010).
their clothing also cite frequent clothing disposal. Fletcher (2008) Finally, these findings show that while gender and household
argues that improving the quality of clothing design will increase income is directly related to disposal frequency, consumer age and
its longevity, and therefore, its sustainability by reducing needless education is not. In this study, females generally reported a higher
disposal. One explanation for this finding could be that these rate of clothing disposal than males. This may be due to their role

712 International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
C. Lang et al. Drivers of frequent clothing disposal

in the family, although this research did not require distinction ers to better understand the implications of their clothing purchase
between the disposal of one’s own clothing vs. those of others. Yet, and disposal behaviour and empowering them to consider the
considering females, especially young females, are also more sen- environment when spending their clothing dollars.
sitive to fashion trends and report shopping more frequently for This study contributes to the literature by providing a more
clothing, two seeming drivers of clothing disposal (Morgan and specific examination of potential drivers of frequent clothing dis-
Birtwistle, 2009). It is reasonable to assume that when addressing posal, providing empirical evidence to support previous explora-
disposal frequency, females may be an ideal target for consumer tory studies. The results indicate that fashion trend sensitivity,
education as well as alternative retail strategies. Additionally, fashion shopping frequency, higher incomes, younger age groups
study participants with higher incomes also reported a higher rate and being female were positively correlated with frequent clothing
of clothing disposal than those with lower incomes. This is con- disposal. Interestingly, quality consciousness was positively cor-
sistent with the findings indicated that consumers who are more related to frequent clothing disposal, while price consciousness
price consciousness tend to keep their clothing for longer periods was negatively related to clothing disposal frequency. This paper
of time. discusses some ways forward for both industry and consumers to
Interestingly, age and education were not direct factors related address the disposal issues. More work about other personal attrib-
to disposal frequency. Rather, personal attributes and behaviours utes, such as cultural norms, may also prove enlightening. Further,
like sensitivity to fashion trends and shopping frequency were better understanding of exactly what is most frequently disposed
more important drivers of clothing disposal, for which the younger will be helpful in developing specific industry solutions to resolve
generation in the study embodied. But, education’s lack of asso- these problems that lead to disposal.
ciation is somewhat surprising, as typically education and income
are highly correlated in consumer research (Harrell and
McConocha, 1992; Shim, 1995; Koch and Domina, 1999). This References
is a cautionary tale as we develop strategies to reduce disposal
targeted to various consumer groups. We simply cannot assume Armstrong, C.M. & Lang, C. (2013) Sustainable product service
systems: the new frontier in apparel retailing? Research Journal of
that various levels of education will translate to pro-environmental
Textile and Apparel, 17, 1–12.
behaviours (Tilikidou and Delistavrou, 2008; Morgan and Bakewell, C. & Mitchell, V.W. (2003) Generation Y female consumer
Birtwistle, 2009). Rather, developing alternatives for consumers decision-making styles. International Journal of Retail & Distribution
who long for fashion change and demonstrate a high level of Management, 31, 95–106.
involvement in fashion consumption should be the priority. Bakewell, C., Mitchell, V.W. & Rothwell, M. (2006) UK generation Y
Notably, this study has a few limitations that may need more male fashion consciousness. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Man-
study in future research. Firstly, since this study was limited to agement, 10, 169–180.
respondents’ personal evaluations of their own fashion trend sen- Bhardwaj, V. & Fairhurst, A. (2010) Fast fashion: response to changes
sitivity, price and quality consciousness, we were not able to in the fashion industry. The International Review of Retail, Distribu-
control the evaluation of these factors. Each participant may have tion and Consumer Research, 20, 165–173.
Bianchi, C. & Birtwistle, G. (2010) Sell, give away, or donate: an
different evaluation standard as they pertain to the factors in this
exploratory study of fashion clothing disposal behavior in two coun-
study, and this differentiation may have an influence on the results. tries. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer
Secondly, convenience sampling and the online survey method Research, 20, 353–368.
might limit generalizability of the results. Although we controlled Bianchi, C. & Birtwistle, G. (2012) Consumer clothing disposal
the proportion in order to maintain a balance in gender and age behavior: a comparative study. International Journal of Consumer
group, we were not able to ensure with confidence, that the par- Studies, 36, 335–341.
ticipants were a fair representation of all of the levels of ethnic, Birtwistle, G. & Moore, C.M. (2007) Fashion clothing – where does it
income, education, etc. Moreover, the study was focused on the all end up? International Journal of Retail &Distribution Manage-
correlation of variables, but the causal relationships between the ment, 35, 210–216.
variables were not claimed. A more inventive method of research Black, S. (2013) The Sustainable Fashion Handbook. Thames and
Hudson, New York.
may be needed and designed to test causality between the vari-
Bruce, M. & Daly, L. (2006) Buyer behavior for fast fashion. Journal of
ables. Finally, clothing disposal behaviours are also influenced by Fashion Marketing and Management, 10, 329–344.
other factors, which have an impact on disposal frequency. But we Domina, T. & Koch, K. (1998) Environmental profiles of female apparel
did not consider other factors in this study, such as convenience of shoppers in the Midwest, USA. Journal of Consumer Studies& Home
disposal, consumers’ environmental attitudes and the influence of Economics, 22, 147–161.
reference groups. Domina, T. & Koch, K. (1999) Consumer reuse and recycling of post-
consumer textile waste. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Manage-
ment, 3, 346–359.
Conclusion Domina, T. & Koch, K. (2001) Textile recycling, convenience, and the
Clothing products remain important in today’s consumer culture, older adult. Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, 93, 35–40.
Domina, T. & Koch, K. (2002) Convenience and frequency of recycling:
and both consumers and industry are responsible for sustainability.
implications for including textiles in curbside recycling programs.
Fashion retailers now need to take responsibility for the amount of Environment and Behavior, 34, 216–238.
clothing they sell by developing programmes that take into con- Fletcher, K. (2008) Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys.
sideration factors such as disposal methods, reuse and recycling. Routledge, London.
Consumer education, whether facilitated by fashion brands or Fletcher, K. & Grose, L. (2012) Fashion and Sustainability: Design for
researchers in the field must continue to expand, helping consum- Change. Laurence King Publishing Ltd, London.

International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714 713


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd
Drivers of frequent clothing disposal C. Lang et al.

Gabor, A. & Granger, C.W.J. (1966) Price as an indicator of quality: Morgan, L.R. & Birtwistle, G. (2009) An investigation of young fashion
report on an enquiry. Economica, 33, 43–70. consumers’ disposal habits. International Journal of Consumer
Ha-Brookshire, J.E. & Hodges, N.N. (2009) Socially responsible con- Studies, 33, 190–198.
sumer behavior? Exploring used clothing donation behavior. Clothing Park, E.J., Kim, E.Y. & Forney, J.C. (2006) A structural model of
and Textiles Research Journal, 27, 179–196. fashion-oriented impulse buying behavior. Journal of Fashion Mar-
Hanson, J.W. (1980) A proposed paradigm for consumer product dispo- keting and Management, 10, 433–446.
sition processes. The Journal of Consumer Affairs, 14, 49–67. Ritch, E.L. & Schroder, M.J. (2012) Accessing and affording sustain-
Harrell, G.D. & McConocha, D.M. (1992) Personal factors related to ability: the experience of fashion consumption within young families.
consumer product disposal tendencies. The Journal of Consumer International Journal of Consumer Studies, 36, 203–210.
Affairs, 26, 397–397. Schifferstein, H. & Zwartkruis-Pelgrim, E. (2008) Consumer-product
Hawley, J.M. (2000) Consumer behavior in the disposal of unwanted attachment: measurement and design implications. International
clothing. TAFCS research journal, 1, 4–5. Journal of Design, 2, 1–13.
Joung, H.-M. & Park-Poaps, H. (2013) Factors motivating and influenc- Shaul, C.C. (2007) The attitude toward money as a reward system
ing clothing disposal behaviors. International Journal of Consumer between the age groups corresponding to the boomers, generation X,
Studies, 37, 105–111. generation Y employees. Doctoral dissertation, Alliant International
Koch, K. & Domina, T. (1997) The effects of environmental attitude and University, Fresno. Accessed from ProQuest Dissertations and Theses
fashion opinion leadership on textile recycling in the US. Journal of database. (UMI No. 3262880).
Consumer Studies and Home Economics, 21, 1–17. Shim, S. (1995) Environmentalism and consumers’ clothing disposal
Koch, K. & Domina, T. (1999) Consumer textile recycling as a means patterns: an exploratory study. Clothing and Textiles Research
of solid waste reduction. Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 13, 38–48.
Journal, 28, 3–17. Textile Exchange (2012) FastFacts: textile and product waste. [WWW
Law, K.M., Zhang, Z. & Leung, C. (2004) Fashion change and fashion document]. URL http://info.textileexchange.org/Portals/135316/docs/
consumption: the chaotic perspective. Journal of Fashion Marketing fastfacts_textile_product_waste_v1.pdf (accessed on 10 August 2012).
and Management, 8, 362–374. Tilikidou, I. & Delistavrou, A. (2008) Types and influential factors of
Lichtenstein, D.R., Ridgway, N.M. & Netemeyer, R.G. (1993) Price consumers’ non-purchasing ecological behaviors. Business Strategy
perceptions and consumer shopping behavior: a field study. Journal of and the Environment, 18, 61–76.
Marketing Research, 30, 234–234. Winakor, G. (1969) The process of clothing consumption. Journal of
Littrell, M.A., Ma, Y.J. & Halepete, J. (2005) Generation X, baby Home Economics, 61, 629–634.
boomers, and swing: marketing fair trade apparel. Journal of Fashion
Marketing and Management, 9, 407–419.

714 International Journal of Consumer Studies 37 (2013) 706–714


© 2013 John Wiley & Sons Ltd

You might also like