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LARGE SLEEPY TIME CROCHET GNOME

The Pattern

Difficulty
Advanced Beginner

Materials

• Crochet Hook, Size J/10 (6.0 mm)


• Stitch Marker(s)
• Scissors
• Poly-fil, 5 lbs
• Tapestry needle
• 2.5 inch Clover Pom-Pom maker (optional)
• Chopstick, dowel, or something similar to help with stuffing
• Yarnspirations Bernat Blanket Yarn (6-Super Bulky, 100% polyester,
220 yds/201 m, 10.5 oz/300 g): Color (A) Twilight, used approx. 731
yds/668 m (4 skeins), Color (B) Almond, used approx. 95 yds/87 m (1
skein), Color (C) Vintage White, used approx. 260 yds/238 m (2
skeins), Color (D) Sunsoaked, used approx. 120 yds/110 m (1 skein

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Gauge
Using hook size J/10 (6.0 mm) the first 6 rounds of the nose measure
approximately 5.25 inches (13.7 cm) in diameter.

Finished Measurements
Using hook size J/10 (6.0 mm) the Large Sleepy Time Crochet Gnome measures
approximately 21 inches (53 cm) tall not including the hat and approximately
41.5 inches (105 cm) around.

Design Notes

• The pattern is written using US crochet terminology.


• The pattern is written primarily in continuous rounds, it will be
helpful to place a stitch marker at the beginning stitch of the round
and move it up at the start of each additional round.
• At the end of each round the number of stitches for completion is
noted in parentheses.
• Color changes in the pattern should be made during the last step of
the stitch prior to the noted color change throughout the pattern. To
help eliminate the stair-step/jogging that occurs when changing
colors a sl st can be used to replace the first st of the round (it counts
as the first st and should be worked into in the following round).
• Further design notes and tips will be provided throughout the
pattern to help aid in construction.

Abbreviations/Stitches Used

• BPDC – Back Post Double Crochet


• ch – Chain
• FPDC – Front Post Double Crochet
• Rnd(s) – Round(s)
• sc – Single crochet
• sc2tog – Single crochet 2 stitches together (invisible decrease)
• sl st – Slip stitch
• st(s) – Stitch(s)
• [ ] / ( ) – Work instructions between brackets as many times as
directed
• ** – Work instructions between asterisks as directed
• magic circle/adjustable ring

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Let’s Make Our Large Sleepy Time Crochet Gnome!

Nose

Make 1

Using Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)


• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from
hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (32sts)

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• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (48sts)
• Rnds 7-9: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Sl st to the first st and fasten off.
• Firmly stuff and shape the nose. Set aside momentarily.

Body

>Design Note: The body is made from the bottom up with the nose added
seamlessly partway up as indicated in the pattern.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)


• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from
hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 6: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 7: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (56sts)
• Rnd 8: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (64sts)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (72sts)
• Rnd 10: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (80sts)
• Rnd 11: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (88sts)
• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (96sts)
• Rnd 13: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (104sts)
• Rnds 14-33: Sc in each st around. (104sts for 20 Rnds)

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In the next round, the nose is added seamlessly to the body.

See Rnd 34: The Left and Middle Images show the insertion of the hook for the first stitch
joining the bottom of the nose to the body. The Right Image shows the bottom of the nose
fully joined to the body.

• Rnd 34: Sc in the next 46 sts, now join the nose to the body: With
the working loop still on the hook, insert hook into any st on the nose
from the wrong side to the right side of the piece (see the left image
above), then insert the hook into the next st of the body from the
right side to the wrong side of the piece (see the middle image
above), yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo, pull through
both loops, continue to join the nose and body together for the next
11sts, sc in the next 46sts of the body. (104sts)

See Rnd 35: The first stitch joining the top of the nose to the body.

• Rnd 35: Sc in the next 46sts, now join the nose to the body: [With
the working loop on the hook, insert hook into the next st on the
nose from the right side to the wrong side of the piece, then insert
the hook into the next st of the body from the right side to the wrong
side of the piece, yo, pull loop through the body and the nose, yo,
pull through both loops] 12 times, sc in the next 46sts of the body.
(104sts)

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The nose is fully attached to the body.

• Rnds 36-47: Sc in each st around. (104sts for 12 Rnds)


• Rnd 48: [Sc in the next 11sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (96sts)
• Rnd 49: [Sc in the next 10sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (88sts)
• Rnd 50: [Sc in the next 9sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (80sts)
• Rnd 51: [Sc in the next 8sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (72sts)

Firmly stuff and shape the body and continue to do so as the pattern progresses.

• Rnd 52: [Sc in the next 7sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (64sts)


• Rnd 53: [Sc in the next 6sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (56sts)
• Rnd 54: [Sc in the next 5sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (48sts)
• Rnd 55: [Sc in the next 4sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnd 56: [Sc in the next 3sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 57: [Sc in the next 2sts, sc2tog] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 58: [Sc in the next st, sc2tog] 8 times. (16sts)
• Rnd 59: [Sc2tog] 8 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 60: [Sc2tog] 4 times. (4sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to close up the hole. Close the hole with
a tapestry needle stitching only through the front loops until the hole
pulls nicely closed, secure, and weave in the end.

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Beard

Using Color (C)

• Cut 100 strands that are each 25 inches (63.5 cm) long.

Instructions for Looping Yarn


>Design Note: In the images below only one strand is being looped for more
clarity in the image. Use two strands held together when looping the beard.

Left Image: The crochet hook is inserted into the gnome’s body around the stitch noted in the
pattern. Right Image: The yarn strand is folded in half and looped onto the hook.

Left Image: The hook is used to pull the yarn strand partially through the stitch on the
body. Right Image: The bottom of the strand (now having formed a loop) is brought up and
the yarn tails are pulled through.

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The yarn tails are pulled tightly until the loop is secured next to the body, forming a single
strand of the beard.

Looping the Beard


Holding two strands together for each grouping and using the crochet hook to
loop:

• Row 1: Starting on either side of the nose on Rnd 35 of the body loop
5 groups side by side on either side of the nose. (10 groups)

The first row of the beard is lifted showing the space between Row 1 and Row 2.

• Row 2: Move down two rounds on the body (Rnd 33) to directly
under the nose and loop the strand groups across, lining up the first
and last grouping on either end with the previously looped row. (20
groups)
• Row 3: Move down another two rounds (Rnd 31) and loop the strand
groups across, lining up the first and last grouping on either end with
the previously looped row. (20 groups)
• Trim the beard as desired.

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Arms

>Design Note: The arms are made from the hands up to the shoulder.

Make 2

Starting with Color (B)

• Rnd 1: 8sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (8sts)


• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 8sc in 2nd chain from
hook. (8sts)
• Rnd 2: 2sc in each st around. (16sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next st, 2sc in next st] 8 times. (24sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (32sts)
• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in the next st] 8 times. (40sts)
• Rnds 6-11: Sc in each st around. (40sts for 6 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

After working several rounds begin to stuff and shape the arm and continue to
do so as the pattern progresses. Stuff the arms so they’re still squishy when
squeezed (not firmly stuffed) and can be flattened some to rest closer to the
body. Leave the top 5 Rnds unstuffed.

• Rnds 12-29: Sc in each st around. (40sts for 18 Rnds)


• Rnd 30: Sc in the next 14sts, leave the remaining sts unworked. This
positions the working loop at the edge of the arm with the color
change at the center of the arm (This way when the arm is stitched to
the body the color change can be postioned/hidden on the
underside of the arm). (14sts)

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• Rnd 31: Press the top edges together lining up the sts and sc them
together across. (20sts)
• Fasten off leaving a long tail to attach the arm to the body.

Hat

>Design Note: The hat is made from the tip down to the brim with the pom pom
(optional) added once completed. Either work over the tails or weave them in as
the pattern progresses.

Using Color (A)

• Rnd 1: 6sc in an adjustable (magic) circle. (6sts)


• Rnd 1 alternative: If preferred, ch2 and then 6sc in 2nd chain from
hook. (6sts)
• Rnd 2: [Sc in the next 2sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (8sts)
• Rnd 3: [Sc in the next 3sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (10sts)
• Rnd 4: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (12sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 5: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (14sts)
• Rnds 6-8: Sc in each st around. (14sts for 3 Rnds)
• Rnd 9: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (16sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 10-11: Sc in each st around. (16sts for 2 Rnds)


• Rnd 12: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 2 times. (18sts)

Switch to Color (C)

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• Rnds 13-14: Sc in each st around. (18sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 15: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (21sts)
• Rnds 16-17: Sc in each st around. (21sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 18: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (24sts)
• Rnds 19-20: Sc in each st around. (24sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 21: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (27sts)
• Rnds 22-23: Sc in each st around. (27sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 24: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 3 times. (30sts)
• Rnd 25: Sc in each st around. (30sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 26: Sc in each st around. (30sts)


• Rnd 27: [Sc in the next 4sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (36sts)
• Rnd 28: Sc in each st around. (36sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 29: Sc in each st around. (36sts)


• Rnd 30: [Sc in the next 5sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (42sts)
• Rnds 31-32: Sc in each st around. (42sts for 2 Rnds)
• Rnd 33: [Sc in the next 6sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (48sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 34-35: Sc in each st around. (48sts for 2 Rnds)


• Rnd 36: [Sc in the next 7sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (54sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnds 37-38: Sc in each st around. (54sts for 2 Rnds)


• Rnd 39: [Sc in the next 8sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (60sts)
• Rnds 40-41: Sc in each st around. (60sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

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• Rnd 42: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (66sts)
• Rnd 43: Sc in each st around. (66sts)
• Rnd 44: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (72sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 45: Sc in each st around. (72sts)


• Rnd 46: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (78sts)
• Rnd 47: Sc in each st around. (78sts)
• Rnd 48: [Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (84sts)
• Rnd 49: Sc in each st around. (84sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 50: [Sc in the next 13sts, 2sc in next st] 6 times. (90sts)
• Rnd 51: Sc in each st around. (90sts)
• Rnd 52: [Sc in the next 9sts, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (99sts)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnd 53: Sc in each st around. (99sts)


• Rnd 54: [Sc in the next 10sts, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (108sts)
• Rnd 55: Sc in each st around. (108sts)
• Rnd 56: [Sc in the next 11sts, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (117sts)
• Rnd 57: Sc in each st around. (117sts)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnd 58: [Sc in the next 12sts, 2sc in next st] 9 times. (126sts)
• Rnds 59-60: Sc in each st around. (126sts for 2 Rnds)

Switch to Color (C)

• Rnds 61-65: Sc in each st around. (126sts for 5 Rnds)

Switch to Color (A)

• Rnds 66-68: Sc in each st around. (126sts for 3 Rnds)

Switch to Color (D)

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• Rnd 69: Sc in each st around, sl st to the first st to join. (126sts)
• Rnds 70-71: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), FPDC in the same st, BPDC
in the next st, *FPDC in the next st, BPDC in the next st* around, sl st
to the first st to join. (126sts for 2 Rnds)
• Fasten off and weave in the end.

Add A Pom Pom

• Use a 2.5 inch Clover Pom-Pom maker (or other desired method)
make a pom pom using Color (D).
• With a tapestry needle stitch the pom pom to the tip of the hat.

Assembly

General placement and stitching suggestions:

• Arms: Pinning the arms and having them stay is tricky due to the
thickness of the yarn, so this may not be possible. The arms are
placed on either side of the body with the top side of the arm at Rnd
35 of the body (the same Rnd as the top of the beard) about 10
stitches from the edge of the beard with the bottom side of the arm
angled back and attached at about Rnd 23.
• Hat: Put the hat on the top of the body so the brim of the hat rests
down over the top back of the nose and the top of the beard is
covered. If desired the hat can be stitched to the body so that it
cannot be removed.

Add a Star and/or a Moon Pillow

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Jen Hayes Creations

Mise en pages.

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