The Chefs Who Have Buenos Aires

(Reluctantly) Waiting in Line

Local Argentine ingredients are the stars on the menus in a city that feels almost
jubilant after long Covid lockdowns, and of course, the victory of a certain soccer team.
If you’re planning to dine out in Buenos Aires, be prepared for an unfamiliar sight: lines.
As the city springs back to life, the streets feel almost celebratory, an antidote to the
lingering side effects of extended Covid lockdowns. Alfresco tables are packed. Locals
who would never have queued up for dinner before the pandemic are now willing to wait
for a taste of what a new generation of chefs is cooking up.

Julio Baez: Showing off the bounty of the land

“There’s a mentality of ‘I don’t know what’s going to happen tomorrow, so I am going to
enjoy life now,’” said Julio Baez, 37, who opened his 22-seat restaurant Julia in the up-
and-coming Villa Crespo neighborhood in 2019. Because of inflation, it’s too expensive
for most Argentines to travel abroad right now, he explained, so they’re spending their
money on a good meal and a fun night out.

Like many young chefs in the city, Mr. Baez is championing Argentine ingredients for
their quality and sustainability. “The land is so fertile in Argentina,” Mr. Baez said. “We
want to show that off.”

At Julia and his newest restaurant, Franca, also in Villa Crespo, Mr. Baez sources fruits
and vegetables from small producers across Argentina that he fuses with global flavors
to create a parade of original dishes. Julia’s seasonal à la carte dishes and 10-course
tasting menu (30,000 pesos, or about $150 — prices are as of mid-February but are
subject to change because of inflation) both include fresh squid from Patagonia tossed in
a yogurt-walnut pesto and crowned with sliced avocado (3,500 pesos); semi-dehydrated
watermelon tartare (3,500 pesos); and Wagyu beef aged with koji (cooked fermented
rice), Provençal potatoes and a shio koji emulsion (12,500 pesos).

Lis Ra: Piling Korean flavors on Argentine favorites

In nearby Chacarita, Lis Ra, 33, reimagines flavors from her youth at Na Num, the 34-
seat Korean-fusion restaurant she opened in July 2020 in a former pharmacy space.
“When I was growing up, my parents always mixed Korean and Argentine food, so this
combination of flavors comes naturally to me,” she said.

To make her own fermented pastes and sauces, she uses ingredients like spicy chile
flakes, ginger, garlic and soy sauce to season fresh Argentine produce, seafood, meats
and cheeses. “I love piling flavors and textures on top of each other,” Ms. Ra said.
A big seller for vegans is a dish that riffs on humitas — a traditional northern Argentine
corn pudding — that’s served as a creamy brûlée made with almond milk and topped
with sautéed kimchi and daikon pickles (2,100 pesos). One of her personal favorites is
the mussels ceviche prepared with a kimchi-based broth, crispy buckwheat granola,
pomegranate seeds, toasted seaweed, sesame oil and cilantro (3,100 pesos). “It has a lot
of layers,” Ms. Ra said.

Mariano Ramón: Fine dining priced for the masses

At Gran Dabbang, a casual space in Palermo, Mariano Ramón, 41, has made it his
mission to democratize fine dining. “The concept behind the restaurant is to showcase
the diversity of superior products that exist in Argentina and make them accessible to
everyone in a relaxed, inclusive environment,” Mr. Ramón said. “We kept the design
simple in order to invest our resources in the best ingredients and human capital and
still keep dishes around $5 to $10.”

Nuanced fare nods to Asia and the Middle East while using domestic ingredients. Crowd
favorites on the menu include a starter of labneh layered with Japanese cucumber,
dehydrated cherries, tamarind chutney, Andean black mint, slivered pecans, sliced
fennel, peppery chiles and pomegranate seeds served alongside a plate of fried chickpea
noodles for mixing (1,800 pesos).

Look for entrees like grilled quail marinated with rica rica (a floral, bitter, high-altitude
herb), ginger-garlic paste and yogurt (4,500 pesos), and whole roasted pacu (a
freshwater fish from the more tropical northeastern region of Argentina) brightened
with fresh turmeric, lemon, almond-and-yogurt paste, cardamom and Jamaican pepper
and topped with papaya raita and coriander chutney (6,500 pesos). “Many tropical
ingredients locals think are ‘exotic’ are actually native to northern Argentina,” Mr.
Ramón explained.

Germán Sitz and Pedro Peña: A succulent streetscape

Germán Sitz, 33, and his partner Pedro Peña, 38, opened their first Palermo restaurant
on Thames Street in 2014. Called La Carniceria, or the butcher shop, it offered a fresh
take on traditional Argentine barbecue. “At the time, the area was a red-light district,
but we gambled that people would come anyway, and fortunately we were right,” Mr.
Sitz said.

Since then, they have opened four restaurants, transforming Thames Street into a
gastronomic corridor. Book a guided crawl with Mr. Sitz to get a taste of each
restaurant’s signature plates as well as his insights into Argentine food culture (37,000
pesos; English-speaking tours are guided by a member of his team).
Stops on the tour include the Asian grill Niño Gordo to sample its katsu sando, a
Japanese sandwich recast with breaded strip loin and homemade brioche and slathered
in Japanese mayonnaise and a plum-based tonkatsu sauce. At Chori, diners can sample
choripan (a grilled chorizo sausage wrapped in a toasted bun), an Argentine street-food
staple. After visits to the duo’s tapas bar and taqueria, the tour culminates at La
Carniceria with a plate of aged Angus rib eye, Japanese pumpkin and homemade
chimichurri.

Facundo Kelemen: Surprising twists on classic recipes

For Mengano, his 2018 debut in Palermo, Facundo Kelemen, 35, reimagined a bodegón
— a classic neighborhood restaurant — in an early-20th-century home, decorating it
with family portraits and heirloom furniture. An open kitchen allows diners to watch the
chef prepare reinterpretations of time-honored recipes that are served as small plates
meant for sharing. “Each dish carries a certain level of surprise, and they are all
emblematic of Argentine cuisine, which is mainly an amalgam of Spanish, Italian and
Creole influences,” he said. The fried beef empanadas are stuffed with onion, bell
pepper, garlic, spices and a savory meat broth that bursts out with every bite (1,020
pesos). Other standouts include Patagonian lamb tartare (2,310 pesos), gnocchi made
with cassava starch (3,170 pesos), and a crispy rice dish that falls somewhere between a
risotto and socarrat — the layer of toasted rice at the bottom of a paella (3,110 pesos).

Pedro Bargero: A seasonal set menu worth the splurge

In June, Pedro Bargero, 32, is moving Yugo Omakase Criollo, his acclaimed Japanese
Creole fusion restaurant, from the suburbs to Belgrano, an upscale Buenos Aires
neighborhood. The two-and-a-half-hour omakase experience features a set menu of 14
to 16 dishes that will be served at an intimate 18-person bar (35,000 pesos). “The
concept behind the menu is seasonality,” Mr. Bargero explained, adding, “and all
products are Argentine.” His creations include smoked pacu with warm Argentine short
rice and red chimichurri; wood-fired sweetbread nigiri sushi drizzled in a Japanese
Creole sauce; and shrimp nigiri dabbed with trout roe. “Our restaurant is expensive for
locals, but it’s not the type of food most people eat at home, so they feel it’s worth the
splurge,” Mr. Bargero said.

Olivia Saal: Baked creations and a kitchen at center stage

At Oli, a bright and lively cafe open for breakfast, brunch and lunch near the bustling
Colegiales neighborhood, Olivia Saal, 28, has split the menu evenly between freshly
baked confections and savory offerings. Top picks include made-from-scratch French
toast stacked with thin layers of yogurt, mascarpone cream and fruits like mixed berries
and figs (1,540 pesos), as well as her knockout sugar-glazed medialunas (Argentine
pastries similar to a croissants). For a salty snack, order a grill-pressed ham and cheese
on chipá, a cheese bread made with cassava (990 pesos). The dining room overlooks a
glass-enclosed kitchen where a bevy of tattooed young people are hard at work. “I
always dreamed of having a restaurant where diners could see who was feeding them,”
Ms. Saal said, “and where the culinary team could watch guests walk in and leave
happy.”