The summer of the Jirisan Ridge hike

If you are one of many outdoor-loving Koreans, the Jirisan ridge hike and
seeing the sunrise from the highest peak Cheonwangbong (1915m) is
probably on your wish list of things to do. It was on mine. Jirisan is a
spiritually important mountain for our people, along with Seoraksan in the
east and Hallasan in Jeju island. You might have noticed now, ’san’ means
mountain in Korean, so you can say Jiri Mountain as well. Jirisan is known
for holding maternal energy, like getting a big hug from Mother Nature.
That’s because our ancestors believed that the smooth peaks and bow-shaped
ridges represent the feminine energy of nature. I hiked there many years ago
during my Templestay experience in Hwaumsa, but the ridge hike is
something of a different genre.

Jirisan turns you into a wise man and the Sky God is strict
It’s named Jirisan (Jiri Mountain, 智異山) because it was believed to have
the power to give common people wisdom. Jirisan National Park was
declared the nation’s first national park and it is the biggest. The national
park lies in three provinces, Jeollabukdo, Jeollanamdo, and
Gyeongsangnamdo. Sunrise from the tallest peak Cheonwangbong (1915 m)
is the most beautiful scene in Jirisan. However, it’s notorious for often being
in the fog. There was an old saying that the Sky God (or the guardian of the
land) only allows you to see the sunrise if three generations of your family
did a lot of good deeds.

Jirisan is one of the most beloved mountains in Korea. There are many hiking
trails that are well-known for their exquisite landscape. The classic ridge hike
is the one that walks on the 25.5km main ridge from Nogodan Peak to
Cheonwangbong Peak, which is the second tallest peak in South Korea after
Hallasan (1950 m) on Jeju Island. The starting and ending points can vary,
though the traditional route starts from Hwaumsa Temple and ends in
Daewonsa Temple, which stretches about 59km. The elevation difference
between lowest to highest is 1285 m (4216 ft). There are 16 peaks that are
higher than 1500 m (4921 ft) on the main ridge. This is considered one of the
most important hiking courses for Koreans to complete.

I’m happy to report that I’ve done it, I’ve seen it, and I’ve lived it.

Planning for Jirisan Ridge Hike

For four days and three nights, Stephen and I hiked the main ridge of Jirisan.
It was an amazingly beautiful hike, but most of all, it was a spiritually
important experience for me as a Korean. We Koreans thrive on the spiritual
connection with our homeland. But certainly, the Jirisan ridge hike is worth
hiking no matter where you’re from. You’ll see the ocean of clouds from
mountain peaks, Jirisan’s unique wildflowers, waterfalls as old as the earth,
and much more.

For your successful planning, here is the complete guide to the Jirisan
Ridge hike.

Jirisan Ridge Hike Full itinerary

Date: July 18 – 21 [please note that preparation for each season will be
different]

 July 18 Monday (5.2km hike)

 Seoul – Gurye (3.5 hours by bus)
  Reach the trailhead at Sungsamjae (성삼재 휴게소)
and hike to Nogodan Peak (1507m/ 4944ft)
 Spend the first night at Nogodan Shelter
 July 19 Tuesday (13.6km/8.45mi hike)
 Hike to Yeonhacheon Shelter via Banyabong Peak
(1732m/5682.4ft)
 Spend the second night at Yeonhacheon Shelter
(1480m/4655.6ft)
 July 20 Wednesday (13.3km/8.26mi hike)
 Hike to Jangteomok Shelter
 Spend the night at Jangteomok Shelter (1653m/5423ft)
 July 21 Thursday (7.1km/4.41mi hike)
 See the sunrise at the highest peak Cheonwangbong
Peak (1915m/6283ft)*
 *Let’s see if Kim family did a lot of good deeds.
 Hike down to Baekmudong

Jirisan is well-managed with many shelters, so it makes it easier to plan the

hike from shelter to shelter. Please see below how to use the national park’s
shelter reservation system.

As I said earlier, starting from Hwaumsa Temple and ending at Daewonsa

Temple has been known as the classic ridge hike. But since the park built a
road up to Sungsamjae, which is the highest point cars can go in Korea, the
Sumgsamjae-Nogodan path became more popular as a starting point. There
are several options for descending, and we chose the Baekmudong course. If
you are heading back to Seoul or the northern part of Korea, Baekmudong
has more options. Jungsanri course is also popular, and there is transportation
connecting from Jinju city. If you want to continue the classic ridge hike, you
can hike down to Daewonsa.

Packing for Jirisan ridge hike

As you can imagine, it gets cool in the mountains even in summer, especially
if you’re on the top of the ridge. Pack a couple long-sleeved shirts and a
jacket to layer. Shelters are heated, so no need to worry about being cold at
night. All the shelters have blankets to rent but I recommend bringing a
sleeping bag if you have extra room.
For food, calculate exactly what you want to eat for each meal and how much
gas you’ll need to cook. Find a way to reduce trash, since you will have to
carry everything out. Each shelter has running water, and a small store that
sells camping gas, instant ramen noodles, cooked rice, and some snacks.

Other items I packed: two walking poles, headlamp, STERI Pen, sunscreen,
body balm, kuksa, mosquito repellant, eye patch and earbuds, wet wipes,
toilet paper, one-day contact lenses, water bottles, sleeping bag, and pocket
knife.

Our bags were 12kg and 14kg at the start.

Jirisan National Park How to Do It Right

Shelters

Korea’s national parks have shelters that you can use to rest and stay
overnight. When I say well-equipped, I mean it. The shelters have running
water, sleeping compartments, blankets and sleeping pads for rent, heaters, a
small store (for food and camping equipment), power outlets, and wireless
internet. The facilities have been upgraded over the past decade. Welcome to
Korea’s national parks!

If you are planning a multiple-day hike, you must reserve a shelter in

advance. National parks don’t allow anyone to hike at night or cook and
sleep anywhere other than shelters. The only way to make a reservation is
through the national park’s website. If you’re a foreigner, they allow you to
pay at the shelter as long as you make a reservation beforehand. As a Korean
member, you’ll have to pre-pay to complete your reservation.

For the ridge hike, you’d want to stay at Jangteomok Shelter for your last
night, because it’s located below the Cheonwangbong Peak. When you make
a reservation, book Jangteomok first and plan backward. For example, if you
are doing the same root as me (Nogodan Shelter-Yeonhacheon Shelter-
Jangtemok Shelter), reserve the last night’s stay at Jangteomok first and book
the rest. It’s often fully booked especially in summer and autumn.