0029en Shanghai Leopard Wise Mao v1 - Simba

CROCHET PATTERN
Shanghai Leopard – Wise Mao

Designer: Alexandra Simba
Online store: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CrochetPatternGuru
Any questions please ask via private message in the Etsy shop.
Difficulty level - Experienced. The toy is approx. 28 (L) * 14 (H) cm. Pay attention that your toy
can be smaller or bigger depending on the materials you use and your manner to crochet.
This pattern is copyright. You are NOT allowed to send the pattern in whole or any part of it to
anybody as well as post it on blogs, online diaries, social networking sites or any other websites. The
pattern is under a license agreement. License agreement RU 316812925315 dated 14.03.2018. OOO
Sertinfo. Any violation of this agreement is subject to legal prosecution according to Article 146 of the
Criminal Code of the Russian Federation.
You can exchange, sell, and put on charity auctions toys made using this pattern.
When showing and/or selling toys made using this pattern online, you have to provide the
working link to my online store https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CrochetPatternGuru followed by
the phrase: “This toy is made using Alexandra Simba’s (Alexandra Simba) pattern CrochetPatternGuru».
Thank you for understanding.
1
PREFCE.
"You're kidding," said Ellochka tenderly. "It's Mexican jerboa."
"It can't be. They made a mistake. You were given a much better fur. It’s Shanghai leopard. Yes, leopard.
I recognize it by the shade. You see how it reflects the sun. Just like emerald! Just like emerald!
(The Twelve Chairs. Ilf and Petrov)
This pattern is to continue the series of crocheted illustration. Following Mexican jerboa there
appeared Shanghai leopard called Wise Mao (“mao” in Chinese means “cat”). As Chinese people say, a
person’s main wealth is not money, but their wisdom (as well as their experience and knowledge). Thus,
our leopard does not keep gold or diamonds in his coffer, but a book by Confucius.
The head of the leopard is crowned with a traditional Chinese headdress mian (crown) (冕冠
(miǎnguàn), which is known as Chinese tiara that is used to be the ancient emperors’ headdress. The
suspensions in front and behind of the headdress are called “liu”. They are attached to a small plank
made of tung tree. This plunk is called “yanban” (salt plate). The tiara used to be made of bamboo fibers
and upholstered with black silk. Above the face “yanban” is curved (the circle was to symbolize the sky)
and from the back this plunk symbolized the Earth. Thus, there was the harmony of the Sky and the
Earth supported by the Emperor’s head. There are exactly 12 suspensions. This number is tied up to the
calendar system, 12 moon months and 12 sun months, 12 Earth branches, as well as with 12 Zodiac
signs.
2
YOU WILL NEED
These materials are necessary:
- Hairy yarn. I used Kamteks Khlopok Travka (65% cotton, 35% polyamide, 220 m/100 g). Main
color (08 silver) - 1 skein. Half a skein of white yarn to make the white breast and neck. You can use
Nako Paris yarn (40% acrylic, 60% polyamide; 245 m/100 g) or any other similar yarn or any mohair yarn
(If you use mohair yarn, you will have to trim your toy after brushing it).
- Stuffing polyester.
- White fabric plaster or insulation tape.
- Toy eyes / semi beads (plastic or glass). The size of the eyes is 12 mm (depends on the size of
your toy). I recommend looking at photos of different leopards. The eyes of real leopards differ from
gray ones to gray-brown ones. But I used blue toy eyes 
- Transparent glue (if you want to glue the eyes on instead of sewing them on). Make sure the
glue doesn’t destroy the plastic. Or sewing thread to match eyes color if you want to sew the eyes on.
- Strong thread to do sculpting. I use Vita Pelican yarn - I like this yarn because it is strong
enough, doesn’t damage the fabric. Some crocheters like using dental floss or thick nylon thread.
- Plastic clay of wine red color or color of breaks to make the nose or you can use a toy nose or
you can felt it.
- 0.6-1 mm permanent marker or a ballpoint pen of black color to tint the eyes, nose and mouth.
- Fishing line to make whiskers.
- Dry pastel paints of the following colors:
Dark-brown and black.
- Hard synthetic brushes No 5 (or No 4) and No 9 (or No 8, or No 10). I use the brushes from this
set:
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/32833928041.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.274233edsBFhJn
3
Optional materials:
- To make emperor’s tiara: you can use any smooth cotton yarn. I uses Vita Coco (100%
mercerized cotton, 240 m / 50 g): red, yellow and black. You will need just leftovers of each color.
- Golden chain – 0.5 m.
- 24 golden split rings
- 12 golden bells
- 0.5-1.0 mm wire to reinforce the tiara.
Tools:
- 1.75 mm crochet hook to make the leopard. Note: choose the crochet hook size according to
your yarn.
- 1.25 mm crochet hook to make the tiara. Note: choose the crochet hook size according to your
yarn.
- Wire cutter.
- Needle-nose pliers and flat-nose pliers to work with split rings.
- Scissors.
- Hard synthetic paint brush to tint the toy (see above).
4
Abbreviations
ch – chain
dec – 2 sc tog
Attention! In order to get thick even fabric without holes make decreases as it is shown in
pictures below (and do not just skip on stitch!). If it is not states the other, if it is not stated otherwise.
shift st - shift stitch – an additional sc in next st and only after that change the position of the marker
ss – slip st
FO – fasten off, weave in the end
sc – single crochet
sc blo – single crochet through back loop only
sc flo – single crochet through front loop only
incr – increase: 2 sc in one st

3 sc tog - 3 sc together
3-sc incr – 3 sc in next st
4 sc tog - 4 sc together
4-sc incr – 4 sc in next st
fsc – front single crochet
st(s) – stitch(es)
tog – together
MR – magic ring
Attention! In order to avoid injuries, it is necessary to wrap the wire ends with plaster and
bend the wire into a ring. Be careful when working with wire.
Attention! The toy is made with RS facing you.
5
Front legs
Work in continuous spiral. Marker goes along the central line of the back of the leg. Shift the
position of marker when necessary. Do not stuff the legs at this stage.
Feet.
Both feet are made in the same way up to Rnd 26, except for Rnds 13-15.
1) make a MR, 6 sc into ring (6)
2) 2 sc in each st around (12)
3) (sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (18)
4) (sc, 2 sc in next st, sc)*6 (24)
5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (30)
6) 10 sc, (dc double crochet, 2 sc)*3, dc double
crochet, 10 sc (30)
7-9) sc in each st around (30)
10) 11 sc, (2 sc tog)*4, 11 sc (26)
11) 9 sc, (2 sc tog)*4, 9 sc (22)
12) sc in each st around (22), shift st
13-left foot) 19 sc, (3 sc in next st)*2, sc (26)
13-right foot) sc, (3 sc in next st)*2, 19 sc (26)
14-left foot) 10 sc, 2 sc in next st, 15 sc (27)
14-right foot) 15 sc, 2 sc in next st, 10 sc (27)
15-left foot) 20 sc, (3 sc tog)*2, sc (23)
15-right foot) sc, (3 sc tog)*2, 20 sc (23)
Thus, we have made the fifth toe.
18) 22 sc, 2 sc in next st (24)
21) 23 sc, 2 sc in next st (25)
22) 12 sc, 2 sc in next st, 12 sc (26)
23) 25 sc, 2 sc in next st (27)
24) (4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc)*3 (30)
25) (9 sc, 2 sc in next st)*3 (33)
26) 2 sc in next st, 9 sc, 2 sc in next st, (10 sc, 2 sc in next st)*2 (37)
6
Left leg.
26) 36 sc, 2 sc in next st (38)
27-28) 38 sc (38)
29) sc in first st of the previous row, 18 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc (25). FO
30) starting from 2nd st of the previous row: 2 sc tog, 21 sc (22). FO
31) starting from 1st st of the previous row: 2 sc tog, 20 sc (21). FO
32) sc in 1st st of the previous row, 19 sc (20). FO
34) sc in 2nd st of the previous row, 16 sc (17). FO
35) sc in 1st of the previous row, 16 sc (17). FO
37) starting from 1st st of the previous row: 2 sc tog, 12 sc, 2 sc tog (14). FO
39) starting from 1st st of the previous row: 2 sc tog, 10 sc, 2 sc tog (12). FO
41) sc in 3rd st of the previous row, 6 sc (7). FO
In the photo below, you can see left and right legs.
7
Make a rnd of sc around the cap of the leg. Start and finish the rnd at the inner part of the leg.
You can see how to join the rnd accurately in this video tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=570YL2R0PNg
8
Right leg.
26) 36 sc, 2 sc in next st (38)
27) 28 sc (38)
28) 24 sc (24). FO
9
29) sc in 1st st of the previous row, 3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 19 sc (25). FO
30) sc in 2nd st of the previous row, 20 sc, 2 sc tog (22). FO
31) sc in 1st st of the previous row, 19 sc, 2 sc tog (21). FO
37) starting with 1st st of the previous row: 2 sc tog, 12 sc, 2 sc tog (14). FO
39) Starting with 1st st of the previous row: 2 sc tog, 10 sc, 2 sc tog (12). FO
41) sc in 3rd st of the previous row, 6 sc (7). FO
10
Back legs.
Marker goes along the central line of the back of the leg. Do not stuff legs at this stage.
Back leg looking backward.
1) make a MR, 6 sc in the ring (6)
3) (sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (18)
5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (30)
6) 10 sc, (dc double crochet, 2 sc)*3, dc double crochet, 10 sc (30)
10) 11 sc, (2 sc tog)*4, 11sc (24)
11) 9 sc, (2 sc tog)*4, 9 sc (22)
16) (3 sc in next st), 20 sc, (3 sc in next st) (26)
18) 2 sc in next st, 28 sc, 2 sc in next st (32)
20) 2 sc in next st, 34 sc, 2 sc in next st (38)
21) (3 sc tog)*2, 11 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 11 sc, (3 sc tog)*2 (32)
22) 15 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 15 sc (34)
23) 34 sc (34)
24) 16 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 16 sc (36)
25) 36 sc (36)
26) 17 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 17 sc (38)
27) 38 sc (38)
28) 18 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 18 sc (40)
29) 39 sc, 2 sc tog (41)
30) 20 sc, 2 sc in next st, 20 sc (42)
31) 20 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 20 sc (44)
32) (21 sc, 2 sc in next st)*2 (46)
33) 46 sc (46)
34) 2 sc in next st, 21 sc, 2 sc in next st, 22 sc, 2 sc in next st (49)
35) 49 sc (49)
36) 2 sc in next st, 22 sc, 2 sc in next st, 24 sc, 2 sc in next st (52)
37) 52 sc (52)
38) 2 sc in next st, 24 sc, 2 sc in next st, 9 sc (37). FO
39) 2 sc in next st, 34 sc (36). FO
40) 34 sc (34). FO
41) 33 sc (33). FO
42) 32 sc (32). FO
43) 2 sc tog, 29 sc (30). FO
44) 2 sc tog, 27 sc (28). FO
45) 2 sc tog, 25 sc (26). FO
46) 26 sc (26). FO
47) 24 sc (24). FO
48) 22 sc (22). FO
49) 21 sc (21). FO
50) 18 sc (18). FO
51) 15 sc (15). FO
52) 11 st (11). FO
11
12
Right leg looking forward.
1) make a MR, 6 sc in the ring (6)
3) (sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (18)
5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (30)
6) 10 sc, (dc double crochet, 2 sc)*3, dc double crochet, 10 sc (30)
10) 13 sc, (2 sc tog)*2, 13 sc (28)
11) 12 sc, (2 sc tog)*2, 12 sc (26)
12) 11 sc, (2 sc tog)*2, 11 sc (24)
13) 10 sc, (2 sc tog)*2, 10 sc (22)
14-15) 22 sc (22)
16) sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, sc (26)
17) sc in each st around (26)
18) 12 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 12 sc (28)
19) (3 sc tog), 22 sc, (3 sc tog) (24)
21) 11 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 10 sc, 2 sc in next st (27)
22) 12 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 13 sc (29)
23) 2 sc in next st, 11 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 12 sc, 2 sc in next st (33)
24) 2 sc in next st, 14 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 16 sc (36)
25) 17 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 16 sc, 2 sc in next st (39)
26) 2 sc in next st, 16 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 18 sc (42)
27) (20 sc, 2 sc in next st)*2 (44)
28) 2 sc in next st, 21 sc, 2 sc in next st, 21 sc (46)
29) 22 sc, 2 sc in next st, 22 sc, 2 sc in next st (48)
30) 23 sc, 2 sc in next st, 24 sc (49)
31) 24 sc, 2 sc in next st, 24 sc (50)
32) 25sc, 2 sc in next st, 25 sc (51. The last sc is behind marker). FO
Do not track the positon of marker from now.
33) 27 sc, 2 sc in next st (29). FO
34) 28 sc (28). FO
35) 28 sc (28). FO
36) 27 sc (27). FO
37) 27 sc (27). FO
38) 26 sc (26). FO
39) 2 sc tog, 24 sc (25). FO
40) 2 sc tog, 21 sc, 2 sc tog (23). FO
41) 2 sc tog, 19 sc, 2 sc tog (21). FO
42) 2 sc tog, 16 sc, 2 sc tog (18). FO
43) 2 sc tog, 13 sc, 2 sc tog (15). FO
44) 11 sc (11). FO
Make a rnd of sc around the cap of
the leg. Start and finish the rnd at the
inner part of the leg.
Below are the photos of right
and left legs.
13
14
Head-Body-Tail.
Marker goes along the central line of forehead, back of the head and spine. Track the position of
marker and shift it when necessary. Stuff with polyester while working.
Start work with silver yarn (gray yarn in the instructions). Join white yarn in Rnd 15.
3) (sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (18)
5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (30)
6) (2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc)*6 (36)
7) (5 sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (42)
8) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st, 3 sc)*6 (48)
10) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st)*6 (54)
12) (17 sc, 2 sc in next st)*3 (57)
13) sc in each st around (57). You can make a hole in the forehead in this rnd: ch 3, skip 3 sts and
continue working in next st. In next rnd make 3 sc under 3-ch. You might need this hole to add more
stuffing polyester after doing sculpting. Then close the hole. I usually do not make this hole, but you can
try out this way.
14) 15 sc, (2 sc tog)*6, 15 sc, (2 sc tog)*6, 15 sc (69)
15-21) 15 sc with gray yarn, 39 sc with white yarn, 15 sc with gray yarn (69)
22) 15 sc with gray yarn, (2 sc tog*6, 15 sc, 2 sc tog) with white yarn, 15 sc with gray yarn (57)
These increases and decreases make cheeks with white fluffy whiskers.
23) (17 sc, 2 sc tog) – with gray yarn, (17 sc, 2 sc tog) – with white yarn, (17 sc, 2 sc tog) – with gray yarn
(54)
24) 19 sc with gray yarn, 16 sc with white yarn, 19 sc with gray yarn (54)
25) (7 sc, 2 sc tog)*2 – with gray yarn, (7 sc, 2 sc tog)*2 – with white yarn, (7 sc, 2 sc tog)*2 – with gray
yarn (48)
26) (7 sc, 2 sc tog, 7 sc) – with gray yarn, (7 sc, 2 sc tog, 7 sc) – with white yarn, (7 sc, 2 sc tog, 7 sc) –
with gray yarn (45)
27) (7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc) – with gray yarn, (7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc) – with white st, (7 sc, 2 sc in
next st, 7 sc) – with gray yarn (48)
28) (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) – with gray yarn, (15 sc, 2 sc in next st) – with white yarn, (15 sc, 2 sc in next st)
– with gray yarn (51)
29) (8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc) – with gray yarn, (8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc) – with white yarn, (8 sc, 2 sc in
30) 18 sc with gray yarn, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 8 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc) – with white yarn, 18 sc with gray
yarn (56)
31) (17 sc, 2 sc in next st) with gray yarn, 20 sc with white yarn, (2 sc in next st, 17 sc) – with gray yarn
(58)
32) (19 sc) – with gray yarn, (6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc, 2 sc in next st, 6 sc) – with white yarn, (19 sc) –
with gray yarn (60)
33) (18 sc, 2 sc in next st) – with gray yarn, 22 sc with white yarn, (2 sc in next st, 18 sc) – with gray yarn
(62)
34) (21 sc) – with gray yarn, (7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc) – with white yarn, (21 sc) –
with gray yarn (64)
35-37) (21 sc) – with gray yarn, (21 sc) – with white yarn, 22 sc with gray yarn (64)
38) 22 sc with gray yarn, (20 sc) – with white yarn, (7 sc, (3 sc in next st)*2, sc) – with gray yarn (marked
with green in photo below) (68)
15
39) (5 sc, (3 sc in next st)*2, 7 sc) – with gray yarn, (7 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 7 sc) – with
white yarn, 26 sc with gray yarn (74)
40) 29 sc with gray yarn, (5 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 5 sc) – with white yarn, (18 sc, (3 sc in
next st)*2, 5 sc) – with gray yarn (72)
41) (5 sc, (3 sc tog)*2, 13 sc, ch2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 3sc) – with gray yarn, 16 sc with white yarn, (4
sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 19 sc) – with gray yarn (68)
Stop stuffing with polyester after that rnd (It will make easier to insert the frame).
Increases and decreases make shoulder bones.
42) 27 sc with gray yarn, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc) – with white yarn, (27 sc) – with
gray yarn (70)
16
Make a wire frame for front legs. In the picture below it is marked with red.
Cut off approx. 1.2 of wire. Insert the wire into hole in Rnd 41 (it is marked with a pin in the
photo below), take the wire out through the second hole as to make the ends of the wire equal.
17
Try on the front leg and measure the length of the frame (length of leg + 1.5 to fit into foot).
Bend the wire at this point and insert the ends of the wire back into body through the same hole. Wrap
the wire with plaster. Make sure the frame does not bend the body. Bend the end of wire to the tail. It
will make spine. Repeat the above steps for the second leg. Join the ends together. Stuff the body with
polyester.
53) 28 sc with gray yarn, (4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc, 2 sc in next st, 4 sc) – with white yarn, (28 sc) – with
gray yarn (72)
54) (28 sc) – with gray yarn, 14 sc with white yarn, (9 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in
55) (12 sc, 2 sc n next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st, 9 sc) – with gray yarn, (16 sc) – with
white yarn, 31 sc with gray yarn (78)
63) 31 sc with gray yarn, (4 sc, 2 sc tog, 4 sc, 2 sc tog, 4 sc) – with white yarn, 31 sc with gray yarn (76)
18
70) (12 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 9 sc) – with gray yarn, 14 sc with white yarn, (9 sc, 2 sc
tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 12 sc) – with gray yarn (70)
71) 28 sc with gray yarn, (4 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 4 sc) – with white yarn, 28 sc with gray yarn (68)
98) 28 sc with gray yarn, (5 sc, 2 sc tog, 5 sc) – with white yarn, (26 sc, 2 sc tog) – with gray yarn (66)
Align marker to make it go straight. Stop stuffing with polyester after this rnd (it will make it
easier to insert wire frame).
99) (22 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, 3 sc) – with gray yarn, 11 sc with white yarn, (4 sc, ch 2, skip 2
sts, sc in next st, 20 sc) – with gray yarn (66)
100) (2 sc tog, 26 sc) – with gray yarn, 11 sc with white yarn, 27 sc with gray yarn (65)
101) 27 sc with gray yarn, (4 sc, 2 sc tog, 5 sc) – with white yarn, (25 sc, 2 sc tog) – with gray yarn (63)
102) (2 sc tog, 25 sc) – with gray yarn, 10 sc with white yarn, 26 sc with gray yarn (62)
103) 26 sc with gray yarn, 10 sc with white yarn, 26 sc with gray yarn (62)
Make a wire frame for back legs. For each leg cut off approx. 1 m of wire. Bend wire as it is
shown in the phot below.
Insert wire into leg through holes in Rnd 89. Wrap wire with plaster. Bend the ends towards the
tail. Join the ends of frame of back legs and spin together and twist.
19
Twist the ends approx. 5 cm. Then you can cut off 2 ends, leaving the longest one for the spine.
Wrap with plaster.
Stuff body with polyester.

104) (15 sc, 2 sc tog, 5 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc) – with gray yarn, (3 sc, 2 sc tog, 5 sc) – with white yarn, (2 sc tog,
5 sc, 2 sc tog, 5 sc, 2 sc tog, 10 sc) – with gray yarn (56)
105) (12 sc, 2 sc tog, 4 sc, 2 sc tog, 4 sc) – with gray yarn, (2 sc tog, 4 sc, 2 sc tog, sc) – with white yarn, (3
sc, 2 sc tog, 4 sc, 2 sc tog, 12 sc) – with gray yarn (50)
106) (10 sc, 2 sc tog, 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 3 sc, 2 sc tog) – with gray yarn, (3 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc) – with white yarn,
(sc, 2 sc tog, 3 sc, 2 sc tog, 13 sc) – with gray yarn (44)
107) (11 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 2 sc) – with gray yarn, (2 sc tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog) – with white yarn, (2 sc,
2 sc tog, 2 sc, 2 sc tog, 11 sc) – with gray yarn (38)
108) (11 sc, sc tog, sc, 2 sc tog, sc) – with gray yarn, ((2 sc tog)*2) – with white yarn, (sc, 2 sc tog, sc, 2 sc
tog, 11 sc) – with gray yarn (32)
Stuff with polyester. Cut off white yarn and continue with gray yarn only.
109) 10 sc, (2 sc tog)*6, 10 sc (26)
110) 9 sc, (2 sc tog)*4, 9 sc (22)
20
111) 22 sc (22)
Stop shifting position of marker. Stuff with polyester while working.

116-164) sc in each st around (22). (For lynx’s tail, make Rnds 106-115, and then continue with Rnd 165).
165) (9 sc, 2 sc tog)*2 (20)
166) (sc, 2 sc tog, sc)*5 (15)
167) (sc, 2 sc tog)*5 (10)
168) (2 sc tog)*5 (5). Draw up the hole. FO
Watch this video tutorial on how to close hole:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfJF-BMAF90
Put legs on wire frames and fix with pins. Stuff with polyester. Do not stuff tightly in the upper
parts of legs. Make sure the toy stands firmly on all four legs.
21
Left side.
22
Right side.
Back part
23
Muzzle.
Follow the chart to make muzzle. Work with gray yarn. Shift marker according to the
instructions.
1) Ch 5. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each ch along (2), 3 sc in last ch, turn work and continue along
the opposite side of beginning chain: 3 sc (10)
2) (2 sc in next st)*2, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st)*3, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (16)

3) (sc, 2 sc in next st)*2, 2 sc, (sc, 2 sc in next st)*3, 2 sc, (sc, 2 sc in next st) (22) + 2 shift st
4) 5 sc, (4 hdc in next st), 10 sc, (4 hdc in next st), 5 sc (28)
5) sc in each st around (28). Change a color to gray.
6) 19 sc, (4 hdc tog), 5 sc (25)
Ears
Work with gray yarn. Shift marker according to the instructions. If you are making lynx, see
Svetlana Tabunschikova recommendations on how to make ears (see Appendix).
1) Ch 5. 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc, 3 sc in last ch, turn work and continue along the opposite side of
the beginning chain: 3 sc (10)
2) (2 sc in next st)*2, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st)*3, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (16) + shift st
3) ((3 sc in next st), 7 sc)*2 (20) + shift st
8) ((3 sc in next st), 17 sc)*2 (40) + shift st. FO. Weave in the end.
24
Finishing up.
Sew the muzzle on the head.
I marked the beginning of work (Rnd 1 of head)
as a mark point. This chart means the follows:
To find point A, mark point between Rnds 6 and
7 along the central marker. Skip some sts from this
point so that point A is just in the middle.
Points B1 and B2 are symmetrical. Skip 21 sts to
the left and to the right from the central marker
between Rnds 13 and 14. Make sure these points are
symmetrical.
Mark point C in the same way as for point A, but
only between Rnds 20 and 21.
In the photo on the right, there is head with
attached muzzle.
Do some sculpting to make the muzzle lovelier,

more emotional and expressive. Attention: use strong thread of matching color to do sculpting.
Sculpting 1. Make eye sockets.
Mark sculpting points with pins:
- points А and А1. Skip 14 sts to the left and to the right from the central marker between Rnds
7 and 8.
- points B and B1. Skip 9 sts to the left and to the right from the central marker between Rnds 8
and 9.
- points C and C1. Skip 13 sts to the left and to the right from the central marker between Rnds
16 and 17.
Insert needle into point B1, leaving a 10-cm tail outside. Take needle out at point А (on the
opposite side). Skip 1 st aside and insert needle into this point. Take needle out at point C1. Pull both
ends to make an eye socket. Tie the ends together and hide them inside head. Then you will hide these
sts under the ear. If you find eye socket not deep enough, repeat the above steps. Repeat these steps
for point A1.
It is how the head should look like.
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Sculpting 2. Divide the area below nose into 2 parts.
Mark new sculpting points:
- point D marks place where to attach nose. It is located at the top point of 4-st increase (the one that is
on the top of muzzle).
- point E marks the upper point of lower lip (mouth). It is located at the top point of 3-st increase of Rnd
5 (the one that is at the bottom of the muzzle).
Divide this area into two parts. Insert needle at point E, leaving a 10-cm tail outside. Take needle
out at point D. Insert needle into head at point E (thread goes outside the head). Take needle out at
point E. Pull both ends to separate two parts. Tie the ends together at point E and hide the ends inside
the head. If necessary, repeat the above steps.
Sculpting 3. Make upper and lower lips. Insert needle inside the head at point E, leaving a 10-cm
tail outside. Take needle out at point E1, insert needle into head at point E (thread goes outside the
muzzle) and take it out at point E1. Pull both ends to make one side of the mouth. Tie the ends together
at point E1 and hide the ends inside the head. If necessary, repeat the above steps. Repeat these steps
for points E-E2.
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Sculpting 4. Bridge of nose. Place additional markers every 3 rnds (or every 2 rnds) starting from
eye sockets and going to the nose (see photo below). Insert needle inside the head at point located
closest to the eye socket, leaving a 10-cm tail outside. Take needle out at the symmetrical point on the
other side of bridge of nose. Insert needle inside the heat at point 2 rnds below and take it out at the
symmetrical point on the other side of nose. Repeat these steps until you reach the lowermost point,
pulling sides of bridge on nose together. Do not pull too tightly. We need to mark the bridge of nose
instead of sewing them together! Repeat the above steps going up. Finish with taking needle out at the
point, which is symmetrical to the very first point. Insert needle inside the head skipping 1 st down and
take it out at the very first point. Tie the ends together and hide them inside the head.
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Sew ears on hiding stitches from eye sockets sculpting. Before attaching ears, fix them with pins
using photo below as a guide.
Do sculpting of toes, making stitches between 4-dc clusters. There are 3 stitches on each foot.
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Brush legs with slicker brush or Velcro tape. Trim hair.
Make a nose of plastic clay using photo of real leopards below. Glue nose with transparent glue.
Tip: Find a tutorial on how to make nose using plastic clay at the end of the pattern.
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Choose most suitable eyes (I used light-blue 12-mm toy eyes). Real leopards have eyes from
gray-blue and green ones to yellow-brown ones. Glue eyes into eye sockets.
I really like blue-eyed leopard made by Maria Shpakovskaya.
Crochet eyelids (you can also felt them).
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Leopard with nose, eyes and upper eyelids. Leopard with lower eyelids!
Now you can put needles and yarn aside. Let’s start tinting the toy.
Eyes are the mirror of the soul. That is why we start tinting with eyes.
With black permanent marker, make a line around eyes using photos of real leopards as a guide.
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Tint the nose. Use a black permanent marker as it makes a perfect everlasting line. Make a line
round the nose. Tint inside the nostrils. Draw a hollow on the nose. Draw small arrows up from the
upper corners of the nose. (See the photo below).
Crumble black pastel paint into powder. Dip the tip of the brush into the powder, shake off extra
paint.
With dark-gray pastel paint, tint the area according to the pictures below.
32
Use photos of real leopards to tint the toy. Tint inside the ears.
Now it is time to make spots.
33
With dark-gray pastel paint, tint the back of the head, the back of the ears, the back of the toy
till the tail (do not tint the shoulder bones).
You can also tint around the caps of the front and back legs.
Draw spots on the skin of the leopard. Use photos of real leopards as a guide.
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Fix whiskers.
35
The toy is finished. Now it is time to make a tiara.
Tiara.
You can use any yarn you want or have. Below are some general instructions on how to make
tiara. The headdress should fit between the ears. To make the base flat, you have to make a 7-segment
circle with black yarn. In my case, I followed this pattern:
3) (sc, 2 sc in next st)*7 (21)
5) (3 sc, 2 sc in next st)*7 (35). The circle fits perfectly between the ears. You can make a circle with
more or less rnds – it depends on the yarn you use, your manner of crochet and the size of your toy.
6) 35 fsc (35)
7-10) sc in each st around – with black yarn (35)
11-12) sc in each st around – with red yarn (35)
13) sc in each st around – with black yarn (35). FO
Finish work (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=570YL2R0PNg)
The plunk “yanban” is made with yellow yarn with a strand of golden metallic yarn to make it
look like gold. To make the plunk, you have to make a rectangle with the following measurements:
- length – circumference of the tiara*3
- width – circumference of the tiara
36
After you have made this rectangle, make a row of sc around the contour, making 3 sc in each
corner of the rectangle. When making this last rnd of sc, place a 0.5-1 mm wire along the contour and
make sc over this wire. This will make the plunk firm enough to support suspenders with bells.
Sew tiara onto the plunk, placing the base of it on the plunk.
Cut 12 equal chains (choose the length of them as you like).
With needle-nose pliers and flat-nose pliers, attach a small bell at one end of each chain on a
split ring.
37
Attach the other end of the chain onto the plunk using a split ring. The tiara is finished.
38
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Results of the pattern testing.
I would say many great thanks to my helpers who helped me prepare the pattern for online
crocheting and who made their cute toys. It is simply a mystery how these toys look natural and alive. It
was impossible for me to choose only 2 or 4 photos of each toy as I love all of them.
The cute leopard by Maria Vassilievykh was born first. It is 13*28 cm. It is made of Nako Angora
De Luxe yarn, with 0.6 mm crochet hook. The tinting is done with acrylic paints. Eyes are made with
glass cabochons.
41
Tender leopard called Samira by Natalia Roshchina (Навла). It is made of Alize Angora Real 40
yarn together with Alize Kid Royal (light-blue) and Alize Angora Real 40 together with Sable (Chinese
stock yarn) (white), with 1.5 mm crochet hook. For wire frame, Natalia used 2.5 mm wire. The tinting is
done with oil paints and fabric marker. Eyes are 12 mm. The toy is 28 cm (without the tail) and 17 cm tall
(with ears).
42
An incredible leopard by Ekaterina Vinogradova. It is 14 cm tall and 23 cm long (from the tip of
the nose to the back leg) and 38 cm to the end of the tail. Gray yarn: Tender Mohair by Nazar (white) +
Alize Kid Mohair (gray). White yarn: Tender Mohair by Nazar (white) + Alize Kid Mohair (white).
Ekaterina used 2 balls of Tender Mohair by Nazar yarn. Tinting is done with oil paints, pastel paints and a
permanent marker.
43
A queenly lynx by Svetlana Tabunschikova. The toy is quite big – it is 26 cm long (from the tip of
the nose to the end of the tail) and 23 tall (with ears). The eyes are drown by hand. The toy is tinted
with oil paints. It is simply brilliant at hunting hedgehogs! Yarn: Alize Real 40 + Alize Kid Mohair.
44
This snow leopard by Elena Arikhina has come to our world from snowy slopes. It is made of
Italian kid mohair + Alize Kid Mohair with 1.25 mm Clover crochet hook. The toy is approx. 15*23 cm, if
with the tail it is 37 cm long. The eyes are made with 10 mm cabochons. The nose is made of plastic clay.
45
Modification of ears and tutorial on how to make a nose of
plastic clay by Svetlana Tabunshchikova.
Modelling nose.
To make a nose for the wild cat, take a small piece of plastic clay. Warm the clay in hands and
make a small ball. Make a triangle and flatten it a bit.
With your fingers, make the nose look more natural – make the lower part a bit slimmer and
smooth the upper corners. You can stop at this stage. Svetlana makes most noses for her toys in this
way. But, if you want, you can continue modelling the nose. It is not necessary to use special tools to
work with plastic clay. You can use a crochet hook of big size. With the crochet hook, make nose
cavities. Continue modelling until you have the nose you like.
Try the nose on the toy. Take a brush, dip it into water and then into dry black pastel paint.
With brush dipped into black pastel paint, trace the contour of the nose. Wipe extra paint with a wet
wipe. Then bake the nose. You can also boil small part or bake then over a gas cooker. Be careful when
working with open fire. Do not keep it too long over the fire.
Glue the nose on the muzzle using transparent glue.
46
Lynx’s ears.
Work with main color yarn. Track the position of marker shift it whenever it is necessary – it
should go along ridge of ear.
3) (sc, 2 sc in next st)*3 (9)
4) (2 sc, 2 sc in next st)*3 (12)
5) (2 sc, 2 sc in next st)*4 (16)
6) ((3 sc in next st), 7 sc)*2 (20)
7) ((3 sc in next st), 9 sc)*2 (24)
8) 2 sc in next st, 10 sc, (2 sc in
next st)*2, 10 sc, 2 sc in next st
(28)
(32)
(36)
11) 2 sc in next st, 16 sc, (2 sc in next st)*2, 16 sc, 2 sc in next st (40). FO
Fix a bit felt wool at the top of the ear to make a tassel.
Collect them all

Find my patterns on Etsy or Ravelry
Shop on Etsy –
http://bit.ly/EtsyCPG
Shop on Ravelry
http://bit.ly/RavelryCPG
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0029en Shanghai Leopard Wise Mao v1 - Simba

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0029en Shanghai Leopard Wise Mao v1 - Simba

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CROCHET PATTERN

Shanghai Leopard – Wise Mao

incr – increase: 2 sc in one st

Stuff body with polyester.

Stop shifting position of marker. Stuff with polyester while working.

2) (2 sc in next st)2, 2 sc, (2 sc in next st)3, 2 sc, 2 sc in next st (16)

Do some sculpting to make the muzzle lovelier,

It is how the head should look like.

Crochet eyelids (you can also felt them).

Now it is time to make spots.

Cut 12 equal chains (choose the length of them as you like).

Glue the nose on the muzzle using transparent glue.

Collect them all

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