Professional Documents
Culture Documents
FPQM Mid-Term Document
FPQM Mid-Term Document
TECHNOLOGY
SUBMITTED BY:
Bharti
Ekagra
Shivangi
Tarun
Vanshika
Varun
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Acknowledgement
We would like to express our heartfelt gratitude to all those who contributed to the creation
and completion of this document.
We extend our thanks to Asst. Prof. Kriti Srivastava for her expertise, thoughtful insights, and
dedication, which greatly enriched the content of this document.
Additionally, we acknowledge our college National Institute of Fashion Technology, Kangra
for providing the necessary resources and environment conducive to the development of
this material.
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Contents
Acknowledgement ................................................................................................................................. 2
1. Introduction to pre-production process in the apparel industry ...................................................... 5
1.1 Importance of pre-production in the apparel industry:.............................................................. 6
1.1.1 Cost Efficiency:....................................................................................................................... 6
1.1.2 Quality Assurance: ................................................................................................................ 6
1.1.3 Time Optimization: ................................................................................................................ 6
1.1.4 Flexibility and Adaptability: .................................................................................................. 7
1.1.5 Risk Mitigation: ..................................................................................................................... 7
1.1.6 Sustainability and Ethical Considerations: ........................................................................... 7
2. Steps in pre-production process ........................................................................................................ 7
2.1 Meeting with buyers .................................................................................................................... 8
2.2 Development of initial samples for the buyer............................................................................. 8
2.3 Costing of Garments ..................................................................................................................... 8
2.3.1 Direct Costs: ........................................................................................................................... 8
2.3.2 Indirect Costs: ........................................................................................................................ 9
2.3.3 Miscellaneous Costs: ............................................................................................................. 9
2.3.4 Profit Margin: ...................................................................................................................... 10
2.4 Pattern making, correction of pattern, pattern grading ........................................................... 10
2.5 Development of fabric sample ................................................................................................... 11
2.5.1 Selection of fabric:............................................................................................................... 11
2.5.2 Fabric development:............................................................................................................ 11
2.5.3 Bulk Fabric Sourcing: ........................................................................................................... 12
2.5.4 Fabric quality inspection: .................................................................................................... 12
2.5.5 Fabric sorting and shade banding: ...................................................................................... 12
2.5.6 Sourcing for trims and accessories: .................................................................................... 12
2.5.7 Quality checking of trims and accessories: ........................................................................ 13
2.6 Fit sample and Salesman sample making, approvals and corrections according to buyer
comments ......................................................................................................................................... 13
2.7 Making of Size-set sample and GPT sample .............................................................................. 14
2.8 Pre-production Sample approval ............................................................................................... 14
2.9 Pre-production meeting ............................................................................................................. 15
2.9.1 Purposes or importance of PP meeting in apparel industry: ............................................. 15
2.9.2 Methods of Pre-production meeting in the apparel industry: .......................................... 16
2.9.3 Tech-pack ............................................................................................................................. 20
2.9.4 Trims & Accessories Specification Sheet ............................................................................ 21
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2.9.5 Operation Breakdown ......................................................................................................... 22
2.9.6 Bill of material ..................................................................................................................... 23
2.9.7 FPT Test ................................................................................................................................ 23
2.9.8 GPT Test ............................................................................................................................... 24
2.10 Pilot run .................................................................................................................................... 25
2.10.1 Purpose of Pilot run: ......................................................................................................... 25
2.10.2 Points to be considered while making pilot run: ............................................................. 26
3. Conclusion: ....................................................................................................................................... 27
4. References ........................................................................................................................................ 28
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1. Introduction to pre-production process in the apparel
industry
The apparel industry is a dynamic and fast-paced sector characterized by ever-changing
consumer preferences, evolving fashion trends, and intense market competition. At the
heart of this industry lies the pre-production process, a critical phase that lays the
foundation for the successful manufacturing of garments. Pre-production encompasses a
series of essential steps undertaken before actual manufacturing begins, serving as a
blueprint for translating creative concepts into tangible products.
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Moreover, the pre-production process plays a pivotal role in fostering innovation,
sustainability, and ethical practices within the apparel industry. Through strategic material
sourcing, waste reduction initiatives, and adherence to fair labour practices, manufacturers
can align their production processes with evolving market demands and societal
expectations.
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1.1.4 Flexibility and Adaptability: Pre-production provides manufacturers with the flexibility
to adapt to changing market demands, consumer preferences, and emerging trends. By
conducting thorough market research, analysing consumer feedback, and maintaining open
communication channels with designers and suppliers, manufacturers can swiftly adjust
production plans, modify designs, and incorporate new technologies or innovations,
ensuring agility and responsiveness in a dynamic marketplace.
1.1.6 Sustainability and Ethical Considerations: Pre-production processes play a crucial role
in promoting sustainability and ethical practices within the apparel industry. By prioritizing
environmentally friendly materials, implementing waste reduction initiatives, and adhering
to fair labour practices, manufacturers can minimize their environmental footprint, uphold
social responsibility standards, and meet the growing demand for sustainable and ethically
produced garments, thereby appealing to conscious consumers and enhancing brand
credibility.
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2.1 Meeting with buyers
In this stage, the designer of a manufacturing house shows their creations, latest designs to
buyers. On the other hand, if the buyer already had fixed design of a style and need few
changes on it related to fit, fabrics or trims they discuss those things with the merchandiser
of the manufacturing unit.
In this stage, after receiving buyer's concept or instructions on the new style, samples are made. The
first sample that is developed from the design sketch or the design concept is known as proto
sample. Proto samples are also known as the first sample. The proto samples are normally made of
matching fabric quality (weight and fabric types), as during proto sample development actual fabric
are not available with the factory. The proto sample in made in one size. Number of proto samples to
be made depend on the buyer's requirement.
At least three sample should be made - 2 samples to send to the buyer for approval. Out of these 2
sample, buyer keeps one sample and send back to the second sample to the factory.
Third sample should be made as a factory's counter sample of proto. In case, a third-party buying
house is involved in sample development, one additional sample may be required.
Costing is a critical aspect of the pre-production process in the apparel industry, as it involves
determining the total expenses associated with manufacturing a garment. Accurate costing ensures
that manufacturers set appropriate selling prices, maintain profitability, and make informed decisions
throughout the production cycle. Here's a breakdown of the key components involved in garment
costing:
2.3.1.1 Materials: This includes the cost of fabrics, trims, accessories, and any other materials used
in garment production. It's essential to factor in the quantity, quality, and unit cost of each material
component.
2.3.1.2 Labour: The cost of labour encompasses wages, salaries, benefits, and overhead expenses
associated with direct labour, such as pattern making, cutting, sewing, and finishing operations.
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2.3.1.3 Trimming and Embellishments: Costs associated with additional embellishments,
decorations, or special treatments applied to the garment, such as embroidery, printing, or appliqué
work.
2.3.1.4 Packaging: Expenses related to packaging materials, labels, tags, and other packaging
supplies used to prepare the garment for shipment and retail display.
2.3.2.1 Factory Overheads: Indirect costs incurred during garment production, including rent,
utilities, maintenance, depreciation, insurance, and administrative expenses associated with factory
operations.
2.3.2.2 Quality Control: Costs associated with quality control measures, such as inspection,
testing, rework, and quality assurance initiatives implemented to maintain product integrity and
meet quality standards.
2.3.2.3 Sampling and Prototyping: Expenses incurred during the sampling and prototyping
stages, including material costs, labour costs, and overheads associated with developing initial
prototypes and samples for approval.
2.3.2.4 Transportation and Logistics: Costs related to transporting raw materials to the factory,
shipping finished goods to distribution centres or retail locations, and any associated freight,
customs, or handling charges.
2.3.3.1 Duties and Taxes: Import duties, customs duties, excise taxes, and other levies imposed on
imported raw materials or exported finished goods that affect the overall cost of production.
2.3.3.2 Bank Charges and Finance Costs: Fees, charges, and interest expenses associated with
bank loans, overdraft facilities, letters of credit, or other financing arrangements used to fund
production activities.
2.3.3.3 Contingency: A provision for unforeseen expenses, price fluctuations, or unexpected events
that may impact production costs, such as currency fluctuations, supply chain disruptions, or changes
in regulatory requirements.
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2.3.4 Profit Margin:
Lastly, a margin for profit is added to cover the manufacturer's overheads, investment returns, and
business growth objectives. The profit margin is typically calculated as a percentage of the total cost
of production and varies based on factors such as market competition, product positioning, and
business strategy.
Once the proto sample is approved, FIT sample is being made with the actual measurement.
In a factory, a pattern master prepares the first fit pattern. Modification of the pattern is
done to get the desired fit of the garment. Garment fit is one of the most important factors
to be considered during sample development. A Fit sample is being tested on a live model or
on a Dress form for to verify garment fit and fall. Like the proto sample, the fit sample is
made for the middle size. 2-3 samples are developed for the fit sample.
Fit sample must be submitted within 45 days of proto approval as to get the sample of bulk
fabric as it takes 20-25 working days to get in-house. Sometimes fabric suppliers are
nominated by buyer or buyer will supply the fabric in either case it may not take more time.
Hence, approximate one-month gap is kept between proto sample approval and fit sample
submission.
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2.5 Development of fabric sample
2.5.1 Selection of fabric: There are thousands of fabric designs and fabric quality. Fabric
selection is done based on fabric quality required, like fabric colour, fibre content, surface
texture, hand feel, physical and chemical properties. If the required fabric is already
available in the market, the manufacturing factory purchases those fabrics from the stock.
For this, factory need to explore various places for finding the required fabrics. Otherwise,
they work with the fabric supplier to develop the desired fabric quality.
2.5.2 Fabric development: The garment maker gives the fabric quality requirement to
the fabric supplier for developing a new fabric design. At the fabric development stage, the
negotiation of fabric price is done with the fabric vendors. Lab dip and desk loom are
developed at this stage prior to bulk fabric order. Prior to bulk sourcing, fabric sample is
tested to check whether the desired quality is matched with the developed fabric or not. For
yarn dyed stripes knits fabric, knit down is developed.
Garment manufacturer takes approval of bulk fabric by sending a fabric swatch to the buyer.
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2.5.3 Bulk Fabric Sourcing: How much fabric is required for each garment? What is the
average fabric consumption for bulk production? At this stage, there are few calculations on
fabric consumption per garment. This work is done by pattern making department (CAD
department) in the manufacturing house. Based on the fabric consumption, total fabric
requirement is generated for an order and the same is sourced from the pre-approved fabric
supplier. The fabrics are in-house in the factory or in a central warehouse of the company.
2.5.4 Fabric quality inspection: Whether the fabrics are purchased from the buyer
nominated fabric suppliers or from the open market, garment manufacturers are not sure
whether all the fabrics are without fault and defect free. So, fabric checking is an important
process. The fabric may be required to check 100% or can be checked randomly based on
fabric quality received. For an example, 4 Point System is used by most of the apparel
factories for fabric inspection and fabric quality grading, and it is certified by the American
Society for Quality Control (ASQC) as well as the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA).
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size, quality, and
significance of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points is assigned for any single flaw. A
defect can be measured either length or width direction; the system remains the same. Only
major errors are considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
Some fabric tests like fabric GSM, fabric shrinkage and colour bleeding in washing are done
by the factory. If the fabric shrinkage is more than the allowance, fabrics are pre-shrunk for
bulk cutting. Sometimes patterns are modified according to the fabric shrinkage which gives
the correct measurement in the garment after washing.
2.5.5 Fabric sorting and shade banding: It is a common fact that when fabrics are
sourced in bulk, the fabrics are processed in different lots (batches) depending on dyeing
machine capacity. So, there are chances of having shade variation of fabrics of same colours.
To avoid shade variation in garments, shade band is prepared by the factory.
2.5.6 Sourcing for trims and accessories: Like fabric sourcing, all required trims and
accessories are purchased. Trims and accessories are sourced in advanced to production
start.
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2.5.7 Quality checking of trims and accessories: Quality of the trims are inspected
and approved for production. Trims like laces, twill tapes, button, zippers, and draw cords
are tested for colour bleeding. Defective and damaged trims are separated and are not used
in garments.
Salesman samples are generally submitted parallel with fit sample. Salesman samples are
made to put on display in the retail showroom. Salesman sample (SMS) are displayed for
assessing customer's feedback and according to customers response, buyers forecast
demand of a particular style. Sales samples are made with actual fabric and trims and
accessories.
Buyer pays for salesman samples to the developer. Hence from buyer's perspective, timely
submission of these samples is very important. Order size mainly depends on this sample
and any delay or quality issue in sample can reduce the order size.
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2.7 Making of Size-set sample and GPT sample
The objective of the size set sample is checking the garment fit of multiple sizes. The size set
samples are normally made for jump sizes. Like S, L, XXL. A number of samples required for
size set depend on the buyer's requirement. Pattern grading is checked in size set sample.
If the technical team found some sizes are not giving correct fit, they do correction on the
pattern grading until they get the correct fit. This is the most important stage, without size
set sample approval, bulk fabric for production should not be cut in order to accommodate
any changes by the buyer in the bulk production. Size set samples are made using actual
fabric. In case actual fabric is not available, the similar quality fabric can be used (Final
decision for fabric quality is buyers').
It is very necessary that Garment Performance Test should be cleared from buyer. GPT
sample is sent to either third party inspection or in-house testing lab. List tests to be
performed by the lab are defined in buyer’s protocol. Generally, buyers don't ask for GPT
sample submission. They need the GPT test report on the desired test parameters for their
product. The test results should get approved from buyer well in advance of PP meeting.
Further, to avoid the delay in submission of PP sample and Planned Cut Date, GPT happens
along with Size-set sample.
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After making PP sample, the samples are sent to buyer. Buyer cross-check sample detailing
and workmanship and approve PP sample if everything is followed as per style specification
Buyer seals PP sample and sends back for bulk production reference. In cases buyer finds
variation in samples they may ask for re-submission for PP sample or they may confirm for
bulk production with comments to be corrected in bulk production.
After receiving PP sample, factory normally conduct PP meeting to discuss and understand
what is approved and what is not in the sample. They discuss what action to be taken to
follow buyer specification and comments on the PP sample.
Once pre-production (PP) sample is approved (also called sealer sample and most of the
trims are sourced, merchants or production planning department conduct pre-production
meeting. This meeting is a vital part of preparation prior to production and smooth
production run. After the approval of the PP sample, generally PP meeting should organize
on an average 2 weeks. If this is not happened, then the Buying agent and supplier negotiate
and fixed their possible date.
Pre-Production meeting is mainly arranged to make concern everyone who gets involved in
garment making. If bulk production is started without PP meeting, then the chances of
mistakes in production are more. To remove this mistake PP meeting helps about the things:
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• Help to build up a strong relationship between buyer agent & factory people.
• Group discussion helps to improve production.
PP meeting commonly occupied in apparel factory or in buying house & sometimes in both
places. PPM processes not totally different from one place to another. Small differences can
be seen, these are in below:
To bring out all the information about production process, PP meeting is most essential for
supplier's factory. Because only buyer's official documents, requirements, specifications, and
sample comment may not be enough to understand everything properly. Whereas, maximum
production related peoples are less educated, therefore, buyers are always concern about that
and take every single step to get high quality & defects free garment. If supplier's factory is
not following the buyer's requirements, then customer might ask for discount or
cancellation.
• General Manager
• Buying QC
• Factory manager
• Production manager
• Quality control manager
• Merchandiser
• Maintenance mechanic
• Pattern master
• Sample maker
• Cutting master
• Sewing in-charge
• Finishing in-charge
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2.9.2.3 PP meeting in buying house:
Before starting bulk production, buying house arrange internal PP Meeting to take
production file from the factory QC. If they have any kind of misconceptions about
production, about sample, about technical issue then apparel merchandiser try to clarify this
with their team.
• Buying merchandiser
• Buying QC who is going to take care of the file
• Buying technical team
• Buyer's name
• Description
• Order no.
• Order quantity
• Style no.
• Target
• Starting Date
• Finishing Date
• Ex-factory
• rim card or Production swatch board
• Bulk shade approval board
• Production file: To prepare a production file following items must be needed:
▪ Approved base fabric hanger
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▪ Approved sample
▪ Approved trims
▪ Print / Embroidery Artwork
▪ Sample comment
▪ Size and quality breakdown /PO Sheet
▪ Style details
▪ Test report
▪ Wash care sheet
▪ Wash panel
• Production schedule
• Pattern review
• Size set sample review
• Inventory of raw materials
• Testing detail about fabric
• Cutting detail
• Accessories inventory
• Sewing and stitching info
• Line layout design
• Machine layout
• Operator per line & name
• Skilled operator in each machine
• Q.C. application
• Finalizing & selection skilled operators
• Q.C. selection, names & card number etc
• Embroidery review
• Wet processing review
• Print special attachment review.
• Finishing & Packing process.
• Others
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During the pre-production meeting, buying QC check all the attachments and consider it, if
both parties are satisfied, then they agree to start their production and sign an agreement
paper for production. After the confirmation of bulk production, the entire PP meeting
records and information's are carefully filed up for both party and the factory manager
should share important information among all the key employees, who are directly involved
in quality and production for getting mistake free garment and to complete successful
shipment also.
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2.9.3 Tech-pack
05-05-2024
Date
:
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2.9.4 Trims & Accessories Specification Sheet
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2.9.5 Operation Breakdown
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2.9.6 Bill of material
o Fabric construction
o Fabric weight
o Colour fastness
o Weave construction
o Yarn count
o Tear strength
o Abrasion
o Pilling
o Colourfastness to Light.
o PH value
o Seam Strength
Garment manufacturer cut around 100-200 garments per style for the pilot run. This
production is done based on PP comments. All 200 pieces are treated as mini production.
Factory follows complete processes planned for the order. Factory sets up stitching line. And
production for the pilot run is done as it to be done for the bulk production.
Purpose of pilot run is to check production techniques and quality requirement. Pilot run
pieces are thoroughly checked by factory quality department at every stage of production.
Based on the pilot run result bulk production is planned. Through pilot run process,
production team learns about the critical operations in the styles, identify potential
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bottleneck operations. Based on their learning in pilot production run, they prepare
themselves for bulk production.
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3. Conclusion:
The pre-production process in the apparel industry is a comprehensive and multifaceted
endeavour that sets the stage for successful garment manufacturing. It involves a series of
interconnected steps, from conceptualization to production planning, aimed at transforming
creative ideas into tangible products that meet market demands and consumer
expectations. The significance of pre-production cannot be overstated, as it forms the
foundation for efficient resource utilization, quality assurance, and timely delivery of
garments to the market.
The importance of pre-production in the apparel industry is underscored by its role in driving
cost efficiency, quality assurance, time optimization, flexibility, and risk mitigation. By
adopting best practices and embracing innovation, sustainability, and ethical considerations,
manufacturers can navigate the complexities of the industry with confidence, agility, and
resilience, ultimately positioning themselves for sustained growth and success in the global
marketplace.
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4. References
• https://www.styleliquid.com/2020/01/gpt-sample-garment-performance-test.html
• http://www.teyitextile.com/comm/upfile/p_180523_06328.pdf
• https://www.scribd.com/document/489710734/GPT-and-FPT-10
• https://textilelearner.net/time-and-action-plan-for-garment-merchandising/
• https://www.goldnfiber.com/2019/10/importance-of-time-action-plan-tna-in-
apparel-industry.html
• https://techpacker.com/blog/design/everything-you-need-to-know-about-garment-
costing-and-pricing/
• https://www.worldfashionexchange.com/blog/garment-costing-how-costs-are-
calculated-in-the-fashion-industry/
• https://www.textileschool.com/181/garment-costing/
• https://incodocs.com/
• https://sewport.com/learn/garment-labeling-and-requirements
• https://www.scribd.com/document/469927686/PRE-PRODUCTION
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