COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

SECTOR
CONSTRUCTION
(Civil Works)
QUALIFICATION
CARPENTRY NC II

UNIT OF COMPETENCY
FABRICATE, INSTALL AND REMOVE WOODEN FORMWORKS

MODULE TITLE:
FABRICATING, INSTALLING AND REMOVING WOODEN FORMWORKS
 HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING
MATERIALS

Welcome trainee!

Welcome to the module: FABRICATING, INSTALLING AND REMOVING

WOODEN FORMWORKS.. This module contains training materials and activities
for you to complete.

You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete

each learning outcome of the module. In each learning outcome are Information
Sheets, Self-Checks, Operation Sheets and Job Sheets.
Follow these activities on your own. If you have questions, don’t hesitate to ask your
facilitator for assistance.

The goal of this course is the development of practical skills. To gain these skills,
you must learn basic concepts and terminology. For the most part, you’ll get this
information from the Information Sheets and TESDA Website, www.tesda.gov.ph

This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency, in
“Fabricating, installing and removing wooden formworks”.

This will be the source of information for you to acquire knowledge and skills in this
particular competency independently and at your own pace, with minimum
supervision or help from your instructor.

Remember to:

 Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section.

 Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are
included to supplement the materials provided in this module.

 Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she is
there to support you and show you the correct way to do things.

 You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice on the job.
Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way you
will improve both your speed and memory and also your confidence,

 Use the Self-checks, Operation Sheets or Job Sheets at the end of each section to
test your own progress.

 When you feel confident that you have sufficient practice, ask your Trainer to
evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress
Chart and Accomplishment Chart.
 CARPENTRY NC II
COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

List of Competencies

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

1. Layout reference lines Laying out CON711301
reference lines
2. Fabricate, install and remove Fabricating, CON711302
wooden form works installing and
removing wooden
form works
3. Install wooden door jamb, window Installing wooden CON711303
frame and panels door jamb, window
frame and panels
4. Install ceiling and wall frames and Installing ceiling CON711304
panels and wall frames
and panels
5. Fabricate and install wooden stairs Fabricating and CON711305
installing wooden
stairs
6. Install wooden floor supports and Installing wooden CON711306
panels floor supports and
panels
7. Fabricate and install roofing Fabricating and CON711307
system installing roofing
system
8. Fabricate and install wooden Fabricating and CON711308
cabinet installing wooden
cabinet
 MODULES OF INSTRUCTION

QUALIFICATION CARPENTRY NC II

UNIT OF INSTALL CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND

COMPETENCY PANELS

MODULE TITLE INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND

PANELS

MODULE This unit covers the knowledge, skills, and

DESCRIPTOR attitudes in the installation of ceiling and wall
frames and panels.

NOMINAL
DURATION

LEARNING OUTCOMES:

4.1 Prepare materials, tools and equipment

4.2 Erect movable scaffolds or working platform
4.3 Layout ceiling elevation, wall location and position or framing system
4.4 Fix frames and panels
4.5 Dismantle movable scaffolds or moving platforms
4.6 Perform housekeeping
 LEARNING OUTCOMES SUMMARY

LEARNING
OUTCOME Prepare materials, tools and equipment
NO.1
CONTENTS:

ASSESSEMENT CRITERIA:

CONDITIONS:

METHODOLOGY:

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 LEARNING OUTCOMES SUMMARY

LEARNING
OUTCOME Erect movable scaffolds or working platform
NO.2
CONTENTS:

ASSESSEMENT CRITERIA:

CONDITIONS:

METHODOLOGY:

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 LEARNING OUTCOMES SUMMARY

LEARNING
OUTCOME Layout ceiling elevation, wall location and position or
NO.3 framing system

CONTENTS:

ASSESSEMENT CRITERIA:

CONDITIONS:

METHODOLOGY:

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 LEARNING OUTCOMES SUMMARY

LEARNING
OUTCOME Fix frames and panels
NO.4

CONTENTS:

ASSESSEMENT CRITERIA:

CONDITIONS:

METHODOLOGY:

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 LEARNING OUTCOMES SUMMARY

LEARNING
OUTCOME Dismantle movable scaffolds or moving platforms
NO.5

CONTENTS:

ASSESSEMENT CRITERIA:

CONDITIONS:

METHODOLOGY:

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 LEARNING OUTCOMES SUMMARY

LEARNING
OUTCOME Perform housekeeping
NO.6
CONTENTS:

ASSESSEMENT CRITERIA:

CONDITIONS:

METHODOLOGY:

ASSESSMENT METHODS:
 LEARNING MATERIALS

LEARNING OUTCOMES NO.

LEARNING ACTIVITIY/GUIDE SPECIAL INSTRUCTION

SELF-PACED INSTRUCTION
 INFORMATION SHEET CARPENTRY 4.1-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
AFTER READING THIS INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST BE ABLE TO:
1. Familiarize the tools in installing ceiling and wall frame and panels
2. Familiarize the corresponding uses of tools and equipments

CEILING INSTALLATION WITH SAFE TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USE

INTRODUCTION

Let's walk through the process of ceiling installation while emphasizing the
importance of safe tools and equipment use. From understanding the essential tools to
ensuring a secure environment, we've got you covered

Let's start with the fundamentals: the tools. Proper tools are the backbone of any
successful ceiling installation. Here, we'll explore the essential tools you'll need and
the role they play in achieving a flawless ceiling.

1. TAPE MEASURE
First on the list is the trusty tape measure. Accurate measurements are crucial for a
precise installation. Measure the dimensions of your ceiling area carefully, allowing
for any obstacles or irregularities.

2. LEVEL
Next up is the level, which ensures that your ceiling is perfectly horizontal. Using a
level guarantees that your ceiling won't appear slanted or uneven.

3. SCREWDRIVERS
Screwdrivers are indispensable for securing materials in place. Depending on your
project, you may need both flat head and Phillips-head screwdrivers.

4. DRILL
A good quality drill is essential for making holes and driving screws. Choose one with
adjustable speed and torque settings for versatility.

5. SAW
For cutting materials, a saw is vital. A circular saw is excellent for straight cuts, while
a jigsaw is ideal for curved or irregular shapes.
SAFETY FIRST

Ensuring a safe work environment is paramount. Here, we'll delve into safety
practices and precautions that should be part of every ceiling installation project.

1. PROTECTION GEAR

When operating power tools , wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from debris,
and ear protection if the tools are noisy. Additionally, always follow the
manufacturer's instructions and safety guidelines for each tool.

Also, when handling construction materials, wear gloves to protect your hands from
sharp edges and splinters. If your project involves working overhead, consider
wearing a hard hat to safeguard against falling debris.

2. ELECTRICITY

Before you start, it's crucial to turn off the electricity to the room or area where you'll
be working. This minimizes the risk of electrical accidents.

3. LADDERS

Ladders are essential for reaching high ceilings. Ensure your ladder is sturdy, and
always position it on a level surface. Use ladder stabilizers if necessary to prevent
wobbling.

4. EXTENSION CORDS

When working with power tools, extension cords are often needed. Use cords that are
suitable for outdoor use and inspect them for any damage before plugging in. Avoid
running cords across walkways to prevent tripping hazards.

5. VENTILATION

A vital aspect of safety is proper ventilation. If you're working in a confined space or

using materials that produce fumes, ensure the area is well-ventilated to prevent the
buildup of harmful substances.

Hiring a Professional

While DIY projects can be rewarding, ceiling installation can be a complex task. If
you're unsure about any aspect of the project or lack the necessary tools and
experience, it's advisable to hire a ceiling contractor .

These professionals have the expertise to handle ceiling installations efficiently and
safely. They are equipped with the right tools and can ensure a seamless process from
start to finish.
Expert Advice and Final Thoughts

Ceiling installation with safe tools and equipment use is achievable with the right
knowledge and precautions. Remember to gather the essential tools, prioritize safety,
and consider seeking the expertise of a ceiling contractor when needed.

With these guidelines, your ceiling installation project can be a successful and
enjoyable endeavor.
 SELF-CHECK IN CARPENTRY 4.1-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

TRUE or FALSE WRITE TRUE IF THE STATEMENT IS CORRECT AND

FALSE IF IS NOT. WRITE YOUR ANSWER ON THE BLANK BEFORE THE
NUMBER.

____1. TOOLS ARE USED TO WORK WITH MATERIALS TO SHAPE, SIZE,

BEND, STRAIGHTEN, DRILL HOLES.

____2. LAY TILES STARTING AT THE LEFT HAND SIDE OF THE ROOF
PLANE.

____3. A DOOR JAMB TS A FRAME THAT SURROUNDS A DOOR OPENING

IN A WALL.

____4. FIXED WINDOW IS SET IN THE OPEN POSITION.

____5. HOUSEKEEPERS ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR CLEANING AND

REPORTING ANY SAFETY HAZARD TO THE HOMEOWNER OR MANAGER
IN CHARGE.

ANSWER KEY IN CARPENTRY 4.1-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

TRUE OF FALSE

1.TRUE

2.FALSE

3.TRUE

4.FALSE

5.TRUE
MULTIPLE CHOICES: CHOOSE THE LETTER OF THE BEST ANSWER.
WRITE YOUR ANSWER ON THE SPACE PROVIDED BEFORE THE NUMBER.

1.What is the first step in preparing materials and tools for a project?
a) Assembling all required materials and tools
b) Reading through the project instructions
c) Double-checking safety equipment
d) Cleaning the work area

2.Why is it important to organize materials and tools before starting a project?

a) To impress supervisors with neatness
b) To save time and reduce the risk of errors
c) To make the workspace look tidy
d) To ensure all items are in one place

3.Which of the following is an example of a basic tool commonly used in various

projects?
a) Smartphone
b) Hammer
c) Television
d) Blender

4.When selecting materials for a project, what should be considered?

a) Only the cost of the materials
b) The color of the materials
c) The quality and suitability of the materials
d) The popularity of the materials

5.What should be done with tools after completing a project?

a) Leave them scattered around for the next person
b) Clean and organize them for future use
c) Sell them to a second-hand store
d) Throw them away to make space

ANSWER KEY IN CARPENTRY 4.1-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

MULTIPLE CHOICES:

1. C

2. B

3. B

4. C

5. B
 TASK SHEET 4.1-1

Performance Objective:

Supplies/Materials:

Equipment:

Steps and Procedure

Assessment Method:
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 4.1-1
“Installing ceiling and wall frames and panels”
 INFORMATION SHEET 4.2-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
AFTER READING THIS INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST BE ABLE TO:
1. Familiarize the steps of erecting scaffolds

HOW TO ERECT SCAFFOLDING

INTRODUCTION

Scaffolding is often a necessary part of building and home maintenance. Set up

scaffolding properly to make sure you and anyone else using the equipment stay safe.
An oversight in erecting scaffolding could lead to a serious accident. Setting up
scaffolding is an alternative to using ladders. A benefit of using scaffolding is the
larger work area and mobility it offers over that of a ladder. It provides a platform for
walking and for setting all your tools. This cuts work time drastically.

STEPS:

1. Select a secure foundation on which to build and set your scaffold. Obtain mud
sills or base plates to attach the scaffolding to make the footing more stable. One of
the main concerns here is to have the scaffolding level and on secure ground. If you
are on unlevel ground, you my need to dig down to make the dirt level in any high
corner. Also, use the adjusting screws on the scaffolding to level the structure. If the
surface is on a drastic slope, obtain leg extensions

2. Opt for casters. If you plan on moving your scaffolding to work on various spots,
include casters in your scaffolding setup. Remember to lock the casters when you get
it into place.

3. Assemble the scaffolding frame. Lay out the ends of the scaffolding. Lift one end
piece, and attach the upper cross brace. The far end of this brace should support the
end piece while you lift the second end piece and attach its upper cross brace. Secure
the ends of the cross braces to the bottom of the opposite end frame.

4. Make sure the scaffold is stable. Move the scaffold into your desired position, and
make sure it is level and secure.

5. Place the planks. Lift the planks through the scaffold bars and into place.
Hardware should be included to fasten the planks into place.

6. Secure access to the scaffold. If ladders are used to access the scaffold, use ones
that are designed for that specific scaffold. Stair-like ladders can be used to access the
scaffold but must have handrails and treading. A concern with the access point is to
make it safe to maneuver and to prevent the scaffold from tipping over.
7. Attach the guardrails. Guardrails are highly recommended for all scaffolding due
to the height of the equipment and the risk of falls. Also consider using tie offs and
other fall protection.

8. Inspect the scaffolding to ensure safety. Thoroughly examine the scaffolding

setup to make sure all pieces are secure. Reinspect the scaffold system every time you
leave the site and return to it to make sure it is still safe.

9. Finished
SELF-CHECK IN CARPENTRY 4.3-1
 TASK SHEET 4.3-1

Performance Objective:

Supplies/Materials:

Equipment:

Steps and Procedure

Assessment Method:
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 4.3-1
“Installing ceiling and wall frames and panels”
 INFORMATION SHEET 4.3-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

AFTER READING THIS INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST BE ABLE TO:

1. Identify the main parts of a wall frame

2. Explain methods of forming outside corners and partition intersections of wall
frames
3. Describe the construction and erection of wall sections and partitions
4. Demonstrate the process of of ceiling frame construction
5. Explain the benefits of using advanced framing

WALL AND CEILING FRAMING

Technical Terms:

Advanced framing Nailer Strongback

Ceiling frame Partition Structural insulated panel
Ceiling joist Rough opening (SIP)
Cripple stud Sheathing Stud
Header Soffit Top plate
Housewrap Sole plate Trimmer stud
Metal-strap bracing Story pole

Wall framing is assembling the vertical and horizontal members that support the
outside and inside of walls of a structure. This frame also supports upper floors,
ceilings, and the roof. It serves as a nailing base for inside and outside wall-covering
materials. Inside walls that do not carry any structural load are called partitions.

PARTS OF THE WALL FRAME

Anyone planning to become a carpenter needs to know the correct names for the parts
of a house frame. The wall-framing members used in conventional platform
construction include sole plates, top plates, studs, headers, and sheathing.

Studs are the vertical members of the wall frame.

Sole Plate is the horizontal member at the bottom of the wall frame, supported by a
wood subfloor, concrete slab, or other closed surface.

Top Plate is the horizontal member at the top of a wall frame.

All of these components covered on the exterior by boards or prefabricated panels

known as sheathing.
Short studs, known as cripple studs, are used above and below wall openings. Full-
length studs become cripple studs when they end due to an opening.

Trimmer studs, or jack studs, are shortened

studs that stiffen the sides of rough openings.
They bear the direct weight of a header.
Normally, carpenters install doors and
windows so the tops are at the same height.
This practice not only improves appearance,
but also allows all trimmers to be cut at one
time, speeding up production.

Studs and plates are made from 2x4 or 2x6

lumber. Headers usually require heavier
material.

It is common to practice to sheath the exterior

walls with structural OSB or plywood. These
panels provide rigidity to the wall frame to
keep it from racking (shifting out of square).
If the wall is not sheathed with approved
panels, bracing made of 1x4 stock or steel
strips must be let into the wall frame at
corners. An alternative method of bracing
uses structural panels at the corners and
covers the rest of the wall with nonstructural
material.
Corners

Any of several methods can be used to form the outside corners of the wall frame. In
platform construction, the wall frame is usually assembled in sections on the rough
floor and then tilted up into place. Corners are formed when a sidewall and end wall
are joined.

One common method of corner construction uses a stud spaced a distance equal to the
wall thickness from the end of the wall. Three or four short pieces of blocking are
nailed in the space between the two studs. The adjoining wall is butted against the
double stud, forming a surface for fastening interior wall finish on both walls

Figure 11-4A. Another method is to turn the extra stud 90°, as shown in Figure
11-4B. Select only straight studs for corners. Assemble the wall with 10d nails spaced
12″ apart. Stagger the nails from one edge to the other. Attach the filler blocks with
nails as well. In climates that require the house to be well insulated, 2×6 studs are
commonly used for exterior walls. This allows thicker insulation to be installed.
Figure 11-5 shows typical corner construction for 2×6 framing
Partition Intersections

Partitions should be solidly fastened to the outside walls. This requires extra framing
on the outside wall. The framing must also provide a nailing surface on inside corners
for wall covering, such as drywall. Several methods can be used to accomplish these
purposes:

 Install extra studs in the outside wall and attach the partition to them.
 Insert blocking and nailers between the regular studs.
 Use blocking between the regular studs and attach nailers or back up clips to
support inside wall coverings at all inside corners.

A nailer is lumber added as a backing at inside corners.

Rough Openings

Study the house plans to learn the size and location of the rough openings, openings
formed by framing members to receive and support windows or doors. A rough
opening is often referred to as RO on drawings. Plan views have dimension lines.
Usually, the measurement is taken form corners or intersecting partitions to the
centerlines of the openings. Heights of rough openings are given in elevation and
section views. Sizes of rough openings are listed in a table called a door and window
schedule.
 Headers support the weight of the
building across door and window
openings. Door and window headers
are different use of the same principle
as headers in floor frame. One way to
make a header is to cut and nail
together two or three framing members.
Insert 1/2” plywood spacers between
the pieces to make the header the same
thickness as the wall, Figure 11-7. Use
12d or 16d nails and stagger them 16”
on center. Fasten the header in the
rough opening using 16d nails driven
through the studs into the ends of the
header.

The header length is equal to the rough

opening plus the width of two trimmers
(3”). The width of the lumber to be
used in the header depends on the span
of the opening, the load that the
building will place on the header, and
the expected snow load. Local building
codes or the building plan usually
include requirements for headers.

Headers are also required across

openings in load- bearing partitions.
If loads are very heavy or spans un-
usually wide, a flush beam or
strongback may be used. In such
cases, hangers can be used to attach
ceiling- for-floor joists to the flush beam. Strongbacks are dis- cussed later in this
chapter. Figure 11-9 shows a truss joist being attached to a microlam header flush
beam.

In conventional framing, extra studs are included around rough openings, as shown in
the assembly in Figure 11-10. The studs and trimmers support the header and provide
a nailing surface for window and door casing.

Alternate Header Construction

In large window openings, the size of the header may reduce the length of the upper
cripple studs to a point where they cannot be easily assembled. In this case, the
cripple studs can be replaced with flat blocking. Another solution is to increase the
header size to completely fill the space to the plate. Some builders fol- low this
practice and extend it to include all openings, regardless of the span. The cost of labor
required to cut and fit the cripple studs is usually greater than the cost of the larger
headers. A disadvantage of such construction is extra shrinkage. Shrinkage may cause
cracks above doors and windows unless special precautions are taken when applying
the interior wall finish.

Green Note As described in the previous paragraph, headers are often sized to fill the
space above the rough opening to the wall plate. Without any added insulation, this
creates a tremendous thermal bridge. To cut heat loss and build greener headers, size
headers properly and add a layer of rigid foam insulation between a built-up header’s
layers or to the exterior face.

11.2 Plate Layout

Sole plates and top plates are the same size as the studs, typically 2×4 or 2×6. Use
only straight stock for plates. Select two pieces of equal length and lay them side by
side along the location of the outside wall. The length is determined by what can be
easily lifted off of the floor and into a vertical position after it is assembled. Remem-
ber that the weight may include all of the framing for rough openings, bracing, and
sheathing. If wall jacks or a forklift are available for lifting, sections can be made
larger. Where they must be lifted by hand, attach sheath- ing after the wall is up.
Always locate joints over a stud. The centerlines of rough openings are marked first.

Pro Tip Carefully check over your rough opening layouts for errors. Do the math before
cutting and framing.

Laying Out the Second Exterior Stud Wall

Laying out the second exterior wall follows the same procedure as the first outside
wall, with one exception. If sheet material is used for rough siding, then the location
of the first stud from the corner post must allow for the edge of the panel to be flush
with the outside edge of the siding. If the siding is 3/4″ thick and the studs are 16″
OC, lay out the first stud 15 1/4″ from the end of the plate.

P
R
O
C
E
D
U
R
E

Laying Out Plates for the First Outside Wall

1. On the rough floor, mark the width of the plates on all sides from outside in. Snap a
chalk line to mark inside edge of the wall frame. Place sole and top plates along main
sidewalls. Align the ends with floor frame and mark regular stud spacing along both
plates, Figure 11-11.
2. Study the architectural plans and lay out the centerline for the rough opening of
each door and window.
3. Measure and mark off half of the width of the opening on each side of the
centerline.
4. Mark the plate for trimmer studs outside of these points. On each side of the
trimmer stud, include marks for a full-length stud. Identify positions with the letter T
for trimmer studs and X for full-length studs.
5. Mark all stud spaces located between the trimmers with the letter C. This
designates them as cripple studs.
6. Lay out the centerlines where intersecting partitions butt. Add full-length studs at
these points, if required by the method of construction.
7. When blocking is used between regular studs, the centerline is needed as a guide
for positioning the backing strip.
8. Carefully plan the layout of wall corners so they correctly fit together when the
wall sections are erected
Story Pole

A story pole is a long measuring stick created and

used by a carpenter on the job. It represents the actual
wall frame with markings made at the proper height
for every horizontal member of the wall frame—sole
plate, rough windowsill, headers, and top plates. See
Figure 11-12. Its use saves time that would be spent
checking the drawings for these dimensions. Since
the pole must be light and easy for a carpenter to
handle, it is usually a strip of 1×2 or 1×4 lumber. It
must be long enough to reach from the rough floor to
the underside of the ceiling or floor joists above.

When marking a story pole, transfer all of the heights

for horizontal members from the drawings to the pole
at one time. Measurements must be accurate and
lines must be square across the pole. With this guide,
there is no need to consult the plans time and again to
find the lengths of studs, trimmers, and cripple studs.
All this information is conveniently listed on the
pole. A story pole is particularly useful in split-level
construction, multistory buildings, or where stub
walls are needed. A stub wall is a short wall that
might be used, for example, to separate a breakfast nook from the main kitchen area.
Stub walls are also common in framing split-level houses, where one level is not a full
story above the one beside it.

When the header height of the doors is different from that of the windows, mark the
height on the other side of the story pole. This keeps the two heights separate. In
multistory or split-level structures, a story pole may be required for each level.
Wall Sections
Wall sections are assembled on their edges on the rough flooring. All plates, studs,
headers, and rough sills are nailed in place. Wall sheathing is often applied to the
frame before it is raised. Make certain that the framework is square be- fore starting
the application. Diagonal measurements across the corners must be equal. To keep the
frame square while the sheathing is being applied, fasten a diagonal brace across one
corner.

PROCEDURE
Constructing a Wall Section
After the layout of the studs has been marked on the sole plate and top plate, use the
following procedure to construct the wall:
1. Working from the plans or a story pole, cut the various stud lengths. It is seldom
necessary to cut standard full-length studs. These are usually precision end trimmed
(P.E.T.) at the mill and delivered to the construction site ready to assemble.
2. Cut the headers and rough sills. Take their lengths directly from the plate layout.
Assemble the headers.
3. Move the top plate away from the sole plate about a stud length. Turn both plates
on edge with the layout marks inward. Place a full-length stud, crown up, at each
position marked on the top plate and sole plate. See Figure 11-13.
4. Nail the top plate and the sole plate to the full-length studs using two 16d nails or 3
1/4″ nails if a nail gun is being used.
5. Set the trimmer studs in place on the sole plate and nail them to the full-length
studs.
6. Place the header so it is tight against the ends of the trimmers. Nail through the full-
length stud into the header using 3 1/4″ nails, Figure 11-14.
7. The upper cripple studs, if used, can be installed after the header is installed.
8. For window openings, transfer marks for the cripple studs from the sole plate to the
rough sill and assemble the cripple studs with 3 1/4″ nails, Figure 11-15. If the wall
section is erected before installing the cripples, toenail the lower ends of the cripple
studs to the sole plate. Install the rough windowsill.
9. Add studs or blocking at positions where partitions will intersect.
10. Install any wall bracing that may be required for special installations. Remember,
the inside of the wall is face down.
11. If the sheathing is to be applied before the wall is erected, it is the last component
added after all framing is in place.
 SELF-CHECK IN CARPENTRY 4.1-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

 TASK SHEET 4.1-1

Performance Objective:

Supplies/Materials:

Equipment:

Steps and Procedure

Assessment Method:
PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST 4.1-1
“Installing ceiling and wall frames and panels”
 INFORMATION SHEET 4.4-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

AFTER READING THIS INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST BE ABLE TO:

1. Identify the main parts of a wall frame

2. Explain methods of forming outside corners and partition intersections of wall
frames
3. Describe the construction and erection of wall sections and partitions
4. Demonstrate the process of ceiling frame construction
5. Explain the benefits of using advanced framing

Ceiling Framing
A ceiling frame, as the name suggests, is the system of support for all components of
the ceiling. This frame may be the underside of the floor joists for the next story, the
bottom chords of roof trusses, or ceiling joists just below the roof. See Figure 11-36.
The basic construction of an assembly just below the roof is similar to floor framing.
The main difference is that lighter joists are used and headers are not included around
the outside. When trusses are used to form the roof frame, no additional ceiling frame
is required.
Main ceiling framing members are called ceiling joists. Their size is determined by
the span and spacing. To coordinate with walls and permit the use of a wide range of
surface materials, a spacing of 16″ OC is commonly used. Size and quality
requirements must also be based on the type of ceiling finish (plaster or dry- wall) and
how the attic space will be used. Generally, 2×6s may be used for spans of less than
12′ and 2×8s for spans under 14′. Spaces with larger spans usually have roof trusses,
which permit such spans. The architectural plans usually include the specifications.
These requirements should be checked with local building codes.

Ceiling joists usually run across the narrow dimension of a structure. However,
second-floor joists can also be supported by bearing walls. This makes the span even
shorter and may result in ceiling joists perpendicular to each other in the same frame,
Figure 11-37. In large rooms, the midpoint of the joists may need to be supported by
a beam. This beam can be located below the joists or installed flush with the joists. In
a flush installation, the joists may be carried on a ledger or by joist hangers.
Sometimes a beam is installed above the joists in the attic area. It is tied to the joists
with metal straps.

At their outer ends, the upper corners of ceiling joists need to be cut at an angle to
match the slope of the roof. To lay out the pattern for this cut, use the framing square
as shown in Figure 11-38. When the amount of stock to be removed is small, the cuts
can be made after the joists and rafters are in place.
Parallel Ceiling Joists
When ceiling joists run parallel to the edge of the roof, the outside member is likely to
interfere with the roof slope. This often occurs in low-pitched hip roofs. The ceiling
frame in this area should be constructed with stub joists running perpendicular to the
regular joists, Figure 11-39. Lay out the position of the ceiling joists along the top
plate. When a double plate is used, the joists do not need to align with the studs in the
wall. The layout, however, should put the joists alongside the roof rafters so that the
joists can be nailed to them. Ceiling joists are installed before the rafters unless the
assembly is prefabricated. Toenail ceiling joists to the plate using two 10d nails on
each side

Figure 11-39. Stub ceiling joists butted to a full-length joist. The stub joists are
required for a low-pitched hip roof due to the lack of space near the edge.

Partitions or walls that run parallel to the joists must be fastened to the ceiling frame.
A nailing strip or drywall clip to carry the ceiling material must also be installed.
Various size materials can be installed in a number of ways. The chief requirement is
that they provide adequate support for interior wall coverings. Figure 11-40 shows a
typical method of making such an installation. Figure 11-6C shows backup clip
installation for a ceiling. An access hole, also called a scuttle, must be included in the
ceiling frame to provide entrance to the attic area. Fire regulations and building codes
usually list minimum size requirements. The building plans generally indicate the size
of the scuttle and show where it should be located. The opening is framed fol- lowing
the procedure used for openings in the floor.

If the size of the opening is small (2′–3′ square), doubling of joists and headers is not
required.

Strongbacks Long spans of ceiling joists may require a strongback. This is an L-

shaped support constructed of 2″ lumber. It is attached across the tops of joists to
strengthen them and maintain the space between them. It also evens up the bottom
edges of the joists so the ceiling is not wavy after the drywall is applied. To construct
a strongback, first mark the proper joist spacing (16″ or 24″ OC) on a 2×4. Position
the 2×4 across the tops of the ceiling joists and fasten it with two 16d nails at each
joist. Apply pressure against the joists as needed to maintain proper spacing. Select a
straight 2×6 or 2×8 for the second member. Place it on edge against either side of the
2×4 just attached to the joists. Attach one end to the 2×4 with a 16d nail. Work across
the full-length of the strong- back, aligning and nailing it. Stepping on either the 2×4
or the member on edge helps align each joist. Nail the vertical member to each joist
and to the 2×4
Advanced Framing
Advanced framing is the term APA-The Engineered Wood Association uses for
what was first called optimum value engineering (OVE). In recent years, advanced
framing has become the more common name for this system. It is a system of framing
using 2×6 studs spaced 24″ OC and using structural OSB or plywood as sheathing.
Using this system brings these benefits:
■ Reduces material usage. Board footage of framing lumber can be up to 10% less
than with conventional framing
■ Reduces labor costs. Fewer studs, joists, rafters, and plates equate to less assembly
time
■ Complies with structural requirements of building codes
■ Builds more energy efficient homes to meet energy codes. An increase of wall
cavity insulation content, from approximately 75% with conventional framing, to
approximately 85% with advanced framing Some carpenters choose to use some of
the elements of advanced framing, but not all of them. See
Figure 11-42.
If all of the framing members are in line vertically, the top plate does not need to be
doubled. The studs must be placed directly over the floor joists at each level and
trusses or rafters must be placed directly over the studs. Figure 11-43 shows how the
framing members align.

Advanced framing replaces wood with insulation wherever that can be done without
sacrificing structural integrity. Headers are built with a single ply of glulam or
dimensional lumber, Figure 11-44. Headers are eliminated on non-load bearing walls
and replaced by a single plate and cripple studs, just like the sill framing of a window.

Figure 11-43. In-line framing 24″ on center (OC). A—Framing members must be centered
over the member below within 1″. B—Aligned framing members create a straight load path
from the roof to the foundation.
This leaves space for insulation where the extra lumber would have been used. As can
be seen in the figure, an- other savings can be had by using header hangers instead of
trimmer studs. The hanger is nailed to the rough opening stud and the header slips into
the top of the hanger. Steel connecting plates can be used on single top plates to make
splices and attach adjoining walls. To gain maximum insulation, corners are con-
structed so they can be fully insulated. This can be accomplished with the three-stud
corner shown in Figure 11-5 or with a two-stud corner using drywall clips to attach
the interior drywall. A two-stud corner is shown in Figure 11-45.
 INFORMATION SHEET 4.5-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:
AFTER READING THIS INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST BE ABLE TO:
1. Explain the step by step of dismantling scaffold
2. Identify the tools used in dismantling scaffold

HOW TO DISMANTLE SCAFFOLD SAFELY

What you have to do before the actual scaffold dismantling

- As always in scaffolding and the construction industry, the no 1 rule is: safety first!
Because dismantling a scaffold is no less challenging than scaffold assembly. That's
why you first need a strategy on how to dismantle your scaffold. You should always
start by checking your scaffold thoroughly before you start dismantling it. You can
proceed as follows:

Step 1: Check the stability and statics of your scaffold. All scaffolding
components of the scaffold should still be firmly connected to each other. If
individual parts have been removed or severely damaged during the service life,
you should replace them for safe scaffold dismantling.

Step 2: Check if the scaffolding decks are still firmly in place.

Step 3: Check the anchors and all fasteners on the scaffold for stability.

Step 4: Check what kind of fall protection you need for the dismantling and install
it.

Step 5: Make sure that no building materials or tools are still lying loose on the
scaffold. In the worst case, these could fall down during dismantling and injure
people below.

Now you can start dismantling the scaffolding

When your scaffold has passed all safety checks, you can start dismantling it. Here,
too, you should proceed systematically:

Step 1: Make room for the dismantled scaffolding parts

Clear a space nearby to store the dismantled scaffold parts. Individual scaffold parts
should be removed from the scaffold immediately during dismantling and put aside
for later inspection. There should also be an access road for the vehicle that will
transport the scaffolding material off the site later.

Step 2: Put on safety gear

Wear the necessary safety clothing. This includes safety shoes, a helmet, gloves and
other safety equipment required depending on the project, such as PPE.
Step 3: Remove scaffold components from top to bottom
Logical - dismantling is done in reverse order of assembly: from top to bottom. First
remove the tubes and safety railings before dismantling the scaffold decks. Scaffold
parts should not be stored on the scaffold itself during dismantling, but transported
directly down to the ground. You can do this either by reaching down to your
colleague below or by carefully lowering with a rope system, hoist or similar.

Step 4: Remove scaffold anchors

Stability must also be guaranteed at all times when dismantling the scaffold.
Therefore, only remove the anchors after you have dismantled the entire platform.

Step 5: Check the scaffold parts

After you have dismantled all of the scaffolding components, check them thoroughly.
Faulty scaffolding parts might cause injury, so any parts that can't be repaired should
be placed aside for later disposal. All of the undamaged or reparable scaffolding parts
should be properly stored for transport off site

Tools
Tools are particularly important in construction work. They are primarily used to put
things together (e.g., hammers and nail guns) or to take them apart (e.g., jackhammers
and saws). Tools are often classified as hand tools and power tools.
Hand tools include all non-powered tools, such as hammers and pliers.
Power tools are divided into classes, depending on the power source:
 electrical tools (powered by electricity),
 pneumatic tools (powered by compressed air),
 liquid-fuel tools (usually powered by gasoline),
 powder-actuated tools (usually powered by an explosive and operated like a
gun) and hydraulic tools (powered by pressure from a liquid). Each type presents
some unique safety problems.
Hand tools include a wide range of tools, from axes to wrenches. The primary hazard
from hand tools is being struck by the tool or by a piece of the material being worked
on. Eye injuries are very common from the use of hand tools, as a piece of wood or
metal can fly off and lodge in the eye. Some of the major problems are using the
wrong tool for the job or a tool that has not been properly maintained. The size of the
tool is important: some women and men with relatively small hands have difficulty
with large tools. Dull tools can make the work much harder, require more force and
result in more injuries. A chisel with a mushroomed head might shatter on impact and
send fragments flying. It is also important to have the proper work surface. Cutting
material at an awkward angle can result in a loss of balance and an injury. In addition,
hand tools can produce sparks that can ignite explosions if the work is being done
around flammable liquids or vapours. In such cases, spark-resistant tools, such as
those made from brass or aluminium, are needed.
Power tools, in general, are more dangerous than hand tools, because the power of the
tool is increased. The biggest dangers from power tools are from accidental start-up
and slipping or losing one’s balance during use. The power source itself can cause
injuries or death, for example, through electrocution with electrical tools or gasoline
explosions from liquid-fuel tools. Most power tools have a guard to protect the
moving parts while the tool is not in operation. These guards need to be in working
order and not overridden. A portable circular saw, for example, should have an upper
guard covering the top half of the blade and a retractable lower guard which covers
the teeth while the saw is not operating. The retractable guard should automatically
return to cover the lower half of the blade when the tool is finished working. Power
tools often also have safety switches that shut off the tool as soon as a switch is
released. Other tools have catches that must be engaged before the tool can operate.
One example is a fastening tool that must be pressed against the surface with a certain
amount of pressure before it will fire.
One of the main hazards of electrical tools is the risk of electrocution. A frayed wire
or a tool that does not have a ground (that directs the electrical circuit to the ground in
an emergency) can result in electricity running through the body and death by
electrocution. This can be prevented by using double-insulated tools (insulated wires
in an insulated housing), grounded tools and ground-fault circuit interrupters (which
will detect a leak of electricity from a wire and automatically shut off the tool); by
never using electrical tools in damp or wet locations; and by wearing insulated gloves
and safety footwear. Power cords have to be protected from abuse and damage.
Other types of power tools include powered abrasive-wheel tools, like grinding,
cutting or buffing wheels, which present the risk of flying fragments coming off the
wheel. The wheel should be tested to make sure it is not cracked and will not fly apart
during use. It should spin freely on its spindle. The user should never stand directly
infront of the wheel during start-up, in case it breaks. Eye protection is essential when
using these tools.
Pneumatic tools include chippers, drills, hammers and sanders. Some pneumatic tools
shoot fasteners at high speed and pressure into surfaces and, as a result, present the
risk of shooting fasteners into the user or others. If the object being fastened is thin,
the fastener may go through it and strike someone at a distance. These tools can also
be noisy and cause hearing loss. Air hoses should be well connected before use to
prevent them from disconnecting and whipping around. Air hoses should be protected
from abuse and damage as well. Compressed-air guns should never be pointed at
anyone or against oneself. Eye, face and hearing protection should be required.
Jackhammer users should also wear foot protection in case these heavy tools are
dropped.
Gas-powered tools present fuel explosion hazards, particularly during filling. They
should be filled only after they have been shut down and allowed to cool off. Proper
ventilation must be provided if they are being filled in a closed space. Using these
tools in a closed space can also cause problems from carbon monoxide exposure.
Powder-actuated tools are like loaded guns and should be operated only by specially
trained personnel. They should never be loaded until immediately before use and
should never left loaded and unattended. Firing requires two motions: bringing the
tool into position and pulling the trigger. Powder-actuated tools should require at least
5 pounds (2.3 kg) of pressure against the surface before they can be fired. These tools
should not be used in explosive atmospheres. They should never be pointed at anyone
and should be inspected before each use. These tools should have a safety shield at the
end of the muzzle to prevent the release of flying fragments during firing. Defective
tools should be taken out of service immediately and tagged or locked out to make
sure no one else uses them until they are fixed. Powder-actuated fastening tools
should not be fired into material where the fastener could pass through and hit
somebody, nor should these tools be used near an edge where material might splinter
and break off.. Hydraulic power tools should use a fire-resistant fluid and be operated
under safe pressures. A jack should have a safety mechanism to prevent it from being
jacked up too high and should display its load limit prominently. Jacks have to be set
up on a level surface, centred, bear against a level surface and apply force evenly to
be used safely.
In general, tools should be inspected before use, be well-maintained, be operated
according to the manufacturer’s instructions and be operated with safety systems (e.g.,
guards). Users should have proper PPE, such as safety glasses.
Tools can present two other hazards that are often overlooked: vibration and sprains
and strains. Power tools present a considerable vibration hazard to workers. The most
well-known example is chain-saw vibration, which can result in “white-finger”
disease, where the nerves and blood vessels in the hands are damaged. Other power
tools can present hazardous exposures to vibration for construction workers. As much
as possible, workers and contractors should purchase tools where vibration has been
dampened or reduced; anti-vibration gloves have not been shown to solve this
problem.
Poorly designed tools can also contribute to fatigue from awkward postures or grips,
which, in turn, can also lead to accidents. Many tools are not designed for use by left-
handed workers or individuals with small hands. Use of gloves can make it harder to
grip a tool properly and requires tighter gripping of power tools, which can result in
excessive fatigue. Use of tools by construction workers for repetitive jobs can also
lead to cumulative trauma disorders, like carpal tunnel syndrome or tendinitis. Using
the right tool for the job and choosing tools with the best design features that feel
most comfortable in the hand while working can assist in avoiding these problem.
.
 INFORMATION SHEET 4.6-1

“INSTALLING CEILING AND WALL FRAMES AND PANELS”

LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

AFTER READING THIS INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST BE ABLE TO:

1. Explain the benefits of housekeeping practices in workplace

2. Identify the basic goods of housekeeping

Housekeeping Practices

Overview
Good housekeeping is essential to fire safety for each type of occupancy from the
simplest dwelling to the most sophisticated industrial complex. Housekeeping is the
maintenance of an orderly, clean and neat work place. Good housekeeping practices,
both indoors and outdoors, reduce the danger of fire. They can control the presence of
unwanted fuels, obstructions, and sources of ignition that can create extremely
hazardous exposures both to life and property.

It is not practical or possible to discuss every aspect of good housekeeping. Some

aspects of housekeeping are common to practically all occupancies; others are
peculiar to a particular occupancy and require special procedures. Although a cliché,
the statement “a place for everything and everything in its place” captures the best
approach to assuring good housekeeping practices.

Principles of Good Housekeeping

Housekeeping consists of the simpler aspects of building care and maintenance:
ƒ Maintaining operational tidiness and order,
ƒ Properly controlling waste, and
ƒ Regulating activities such as smoking that can lead to hazardous conditions.

To be successful, housekeeping requires organization and continuous monitoring.

Responsibility for Housekeeping

No matter what the area of operation, work activity creates waste materials and
obstructions to orderly movement throughout the premises. It is essential that every
organization have a system for removing them. It is not enough to be aware that waste
accumulates and obstructions to movement can occur and then remove them when
they become unwieldy or a nuisance. Developing a systematic approach is the only
way to make sure that housekeeping activities achieve their goal: an orderly work
place that contributes to fire safety. It is essential to develop a disciplined approach to
prescribed housekeeping practices, so that workers remove debris and trash regularly
and store materials and equipment neatly. The same is true for routine building
maintenance chores. Without a systematic approach, workers may neglect the chores
and property can suffer. This may also indicate that the organization is neglecting the
routines for maintaining fire defenses. In a large organization, management usually
assigns housekeeping to a maintenance staff charged with the routines involved in
housekeeping and maintenance. Direction for the overall effort, however, remains
with management. Management communicates how important and urgent good
housekeeping routines are if efforts are to be effective. Without direct and vigorous
management support, housekeeping goals and objectives can become a low priority.
In a smaller organization without a maintenance staff, good housekeeping is more an
individual effort. Yet the principles are the same: Management must lead workers and
convey to them how important vigorous and systematic attention to the tenets of
orderliness and cleanliness is.

Basics of Good Housekeeping

Except for the somewhat specialized activities of basic building maintenance, there
are three factors required for good housekeeping:
1. Adequate space, proper layout and equipment.
2. Correct materials handling and storage.
3. Cleanliness and orderliness.

Good housekeeping is certain to result when the organization pays proper attention to
establishing routines for these three factors.

Layout and Equipment

An adequately designed work area has adequate working space, adequate and proper
storage facilities, and the right equipment for moving material. Otherwise good
housekeeping falters as the work area becomes clogged, materials back up waiting for
processing, and the messy surroundings result in a decline of overall cleanliness. A
careful review of space requirements for the actual operations being carried on may
suggest ways to rearrange the space. A better arranged space can improve the levels
of housekeeping considerably.

Materials Handling and Storage

The lack of adequate equipment to move and to arrange materials in convenient

storage areas results in haphazard storage. This compounds the housekeeping
problem. It can easily result in blocked exit paths and obstruct access to fire
extinguishers, small hose stations, and automatic extinguishing system control valves.
Other fire protection equipment, such as fire doors, can become inoperable. Poorly
organized storage may result in the collection of debris and trash in neglected corners
and cul-de-sacs.

Cleanliness and Orderliness

No matter what the occupancy, an organization can immeasurably improve the level
of fire safety by paying attention to the fundamental need to keep all areas as clean
and neat as possible. The most important defense against unsightly and dangerous
accumulations of unwanted materials and trash is each individual’s personal sense of
responsibility and desire to keep the surroundings neat and clean. Management must
support workers by providing efficient and timely waste removal programs.
Building Care and Maintenance

There are several noteworthy procedures for the proper care and maintenance of
buildings. These procedures apply regardless of occupancy. They either address
inherent fire hazards or work to reduce the fire danger to the building.

Cleaning and Treatment of Floors

Cleaning and refinishing floors may present a fire hazard if workers use flammable
solvents or finishes or if the process produces a sufficiently large combustible residue.
For example, many fires have resulted from use of gasoline to clean garage floors.
Cleaning or finishing compounds that contain solvents with flash points below room
temperature are too dangerous for ordinary use except in very small quantities. The
hazard depends upon the conditions under which individuals use solvents and on what
precautions they take. Fire testing laboratories have listed many cleaning compounds
that present little or no hazard.