92914

Version 1

92914

GRYNNA (REEF) – VEST

Grynna is a light, oversize vest, with three strands of Fin Mohair Silke held together so the two
shades can fade into each other. The body is worked in the round from the bottom up with a cable
pattern at center front and back. The front and back are then worked separately when the body is
divided. Finally, you will pick up and knit stitches around each armhole for a ribbed edging. The
neckline is finished with a round of single crochet.

YARN Fin Mohair Silke (72% mohair, 28% silk, 230 YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
yd/210 m / 25 g) Color A: Approx. 75 (100, 100, 100, 100, 125, 125, 125) g
GAUGE Approx. 14 sts in seed stitch larger size needles (color 31529, Pink Marshmallow)
= 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. Color B: Approx. 75 (100, 100, 100, 100, 125, 125, 125) g
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary. (color 31520, Natural White)
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) NEEDLES U. S. sizes 10 and 10½ / 6 and 6.5 mm: 40 in /
GARMENT CHEST Approx. 35½ (39½, 43¼, 47¼, 51¼, 100 cm circulars
55¼, 59, 63) in / 90 (100, 110, 120, 130, 140, 150, 160) CROCHET HOOK U. S. size J-10 / 6 mm
cm NOTIONS 8 stitch markers, cable needle
GARMENT LENGTH Approx. 22 (23¼, 24½, 25½, 26½, LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY Intermediate
27¼, 27½, 28) in / 56 (59, 62, 65, 67, 69, 70, 71) cm DESIGNER Inga Semmingsen

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES A+A+A: 2 rows

TIP Choose a size 4-8 in / 10-20 cm larger than your A+A+B: 1 row
chest measurement. A+A+A: 1 row
A+A+B: work for 1½ in / 4 cm
M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between A+B+B: 1 row
2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left- A+A+B: 2 rows
leaning increase. A+B+B: 1 row
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together = right-leaning A+A+B: 1 row
decrease. A+B+B: work for 1½ in / 4 cm
P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together. B+B+B: 1 row
Ssk (slip, slip, knit): One at a time, slip 2 stitches A+B+B: 2 rows
knitwise, place stitches back on left needle and knit B+B+B: 1 row
together through back loops = left-leaning decrease. A+B+B: 1 row
Ssp (slip, slip, purl): One at a time, slip 2 stitches B+B+B: continue with three strands of B
knitwise, place stitches back on left needle and purl
together through back loops. NOTE Make sure you have finished changing from color
A to B before you divide for front and back. The color
NOTE Seed stitch is the U.S. term for the same stitch change between A and B begins when the body
pattern that the British and others call moss stitch. measures 8 in / 20 cm.

Color Change Sequence BODY

The vest is worked with three strands of Järbo Fin
Mohair Silke held together. By changing out one strand
at a time, the colors will gradually shift and fade. You
begin with three strands of color A and then work in the
sequence below:
A+A+B: 1 row
With smaller size circular, CO 136 (148, 160, 172, 184,
196, 212, 228) sts. Join, being careful not to twist cast-
on row; pm for beginning of rnd. Work around in k1, p1
ribbing for 2½ in / 6 cm.

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Version 1
Work 1 rnd, placing markers and increasing for the
cable pattern: Work in ribbing as est for 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9,
9) sts, pm (A), continue in ribbing for 19 (22, 24, 27, 29,
32, 35, 39) sts, pm (B), p1, k1, M1L, k2, p1, k3, M1L, k2,
M1lL, k3, p1, k3, M1L, k2, M1L, k3, p1, k2, M1L, k1, p1,
Pm (C), work in k1 p1 ribbing for 19 (22, 24, 27, 29, 32,
35, 39) sts, pm (D). Work in ribbing as est for 3 (3, 5, 5, 7,
7, 9, 9) sts, pm (E), continue in ribbing for 19 (22, 24, 27,
29, 32, 35, 39) sts, pm (F), p1, k1, M1L, k2, p1, k3, M1L,
k2, M1L, k3, p1, k3, M1L, k2, M1L, k3, p1, k2, M1L, k1, p1,
pm (G). work in ribbing as est to end of rnd (= 12 sts
increased).
There are now a total of 148 (160, 172, 184, 196, 208,
224, 240) sts and 8 markers placed – including the
beginning-of-round marker.
Change to larger size circular and continue as follows:
Work ribbing to A, work in seed st (knit over purl and
purl over knit) to B, work CHART A between markers B
and C, work in seed st to marker D, ribbing to marker E,
seed st to F, work CHART A between markers F and G,
work seed st to end of rnd.
Continue on body, with ribbing, seed st and CHART A as
est. Make sure when working seed st that you always
alternate the sts evenly over the previous rnd so you
alternate knit and purl sts up the length. When body is
8 in / 20 cm, begin fading from color A to color B
following the Color Change Sequence above.
Continue in pattern as est until body measures approx.
13½ (13¾, 14¼, 14½, 15, 15½, 15¾, 15¾) in / 34 (35, 36,
37, 38, 39, 40, 40) cm or to desired length. Make sure
that you have finished the color sequence so that the
rest of the vest is in color B only.
DIVIDE FOR FRONT AND BACK
BO the 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9) sts up to marker A, remove
marker, work in pattern as est to marker E, remove
marker, BO the 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9) sts up to marker F,
continue in pattern to end of rnd.
Now you’ve divided the body into two pieces with 71
(77, 81, 87, 91, 97, 103, 111) sts each for front and back.
Cut yarn and begin again on right side of front, where
you will continue in pattern at the same time as you
shape the armholes and, eventually, the neckline. Don’t
forget that you will work mirror-image from the chart
on the wrong side. See chart.
NOTE All cable crossings are made on RS.
Front
Row 1 (RS): Ssk, work in pattern as est until 2 sts rem,
k2tog (2 sts decreased).
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Row 2 (WS): Ssp, work in pattern as est until 2 sts rem,
p2tog (2 sts decreased).
NOTE Don’t forget that you are on the WS of the chart.
Work Rows 1-2 a total of 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5) times = 63
(65, 69, 71, 75, 81, 87, 91) sts rem.
Row 3 (RS): Ssk, work to marker, remove marker, p1,
pm, work following chart up to purl st at center of chart,
purl into front and then back of same st, pm before last
purl st of chart, p2, remove marker, work in seed st until
2 sts rem, k2tog.
There are now 62 (64, 68, 70, 74, 80, 86, 90) sts rem and
you’ve moved the markers on each side in towards the
center of the chart.
DIVIDE FRONT INTO LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES
You are now on WS and will work the right front over
the first 31 (32, 34, 35, 37, 40, 43, 45) sts. Move the left
front sts to a holder so they won’t be in the way.
Right front
NOTE When working CHART B, continue on the same
number row as would have been next on CHART A
which you have finished. Even if CHART B looks straight,
note that decreases are made on every WS row.
Row 1 (WS, right side): P2tog, work in seed st until 2
sts before marker, work CHART B1; turn (2 sts decreased).
Row 2 (RS): Work CHART B1, work in seed st to end of
row; turn (1 st decreased).
Repeat Rows 1-2 a total of 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8) times = 19
(20, 19, 20, 19, 19, 19, 21) sts rem.
Row 3 (WS): Sl 1 wyb, work in seed st until 2 sts before
marker, work CHART B1; turn (1 st decreased).
Row 4 (RS): Work CHART B1, work in seed st to end of
row; turn (1 st decreased).
Repeat Rows 3-4 until 17 sts rem (all sizes).
Work CHART C1 back and forth, continuing from row
number in sequence where you left off on CHART B.
Work in pattern until piece measures 8¾ (9½, 10¼, 11,
11½, 11¾, 12¼, 12¾) in / 22 (24, 26, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32)
cm from underarm bind-off up to shoulder. BO rem sts.
Left front
Place left front sts onto larger size circular and begin on
WS at center of chest.
Row 1 (WS): Work CHART B2, work in seed st until 2 sts
rem, ssp (2 sts decreased).
Row 2 (RS): Work in seed st until 2 sts before marker,
work CHART B2 (1 st decreased).
Repeat Rows 1-2 a total of 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8) times = 19
(20, 19, 20, 19, 19, 19, 21) sts rem.
Version 1

Row 3 (WS): Work CHART B2, work in seed st until 1 st
rem, k1 (1 st decreased).
Row 4 (RS): Sl 1 wyb, work in seed st until 2 sts before
marker, work CHART B2 (1 st decreased).
Repeat Rows 3-4 until 17 sts rem (all sizes).
Work CHART C2 back and forth, so patterns match, until
left front is same length as right front.
BO rem sts.
BACK
Place the 71 (77, 81, 87, 91, 97, 103, 111) sts of back
onto larger size circular, Begin on RS.
Row 1 (RS): Ssk, work in pattern as est until 2 sts rem,
k2tog (2 sts decreased).
Row 2 (WS): Ssp, work in pattern as est until 2 sts rem,
p2tog (2 sts decreased).
Repeat Rows 1-2 a total of 2 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5) times = 63
(65, 69, 71, 75, 81, 87, 91) sts rem.
Row 3 (RS): Ssk, work in pattern as est until 2 sts rem,
k2tog (2 sts decreased).
Row 4 (WS): Work in pattern across.
Repeat Rows 3-4 a total of 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8, 8) times = 55
(57, 59, 61, 63, 67, 71, 75) sts rem.
Continue back and forth in pattern without decreasing
until back is ¾ in / 2 cm shorter than front. End with a
WS row.
ARMHOLE BANDS
With smaller size circular and 3 strands of color B held
together, beginning at center of underarm, pick up and
knit approx. 66 (68, 70, 74, 78, 82, 86, 88) sts around
armhole. It doesn’t matter if there are a few more sts,
just make sure you have an even number of sts. Join
and pm for beginning of rnd. Work around in k1, p1
ribbing for 6 rnds. BO in ribbing. If you want a more
finished armhole band, you can work more rnds of
ribbing before you bind off.
Work second armhole band the same way.
NECKLINE
To tighten up the neckline, use your crochet hook and 3
strands of color A. Beginning at center back, work single
crochet (= British double crochet) all around the neck
opening.
FINISHING
Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
Dampen vest, preferably from a spray bottle. Gently
press out excess water by rolling vest in a towel. On a
dry towel, lay vest flat to dry, patting it out to finished
measurements.

DIVIDE BACK FOR LEFT AND RIGHT SHOULDERS

Work in seed st to marker, remove marker and work to
largest cable at center back (to and including st column
6 of chart), BO 21 sts (= both of the large cables) and
work in pattern to end of row = 17 (18, 19, 20, 21, 23, 25,
27) sts for each shoulder.

Now you are on the WS and will finish the left shoulder:
Row 5 (WS): Work in seed st across.
Row 6 (RS): BO 0 (1, 2, 2, 2, 3, 4, 5) sts, work in seed st to
end of row = 17 (17, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22) sts rem.
Row 7 (WS): Work as for Row 5.
Row 8 (RS): BO 0 (0, 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) sts, work in seed st to
end of row.
BO rem 17 sts.

Begin on RS on right side of back and work shoulder as

for back.

Join shoulders.

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Knit on RS, purl on WS

Purl on RS, knit on WS

2/2 right cable: Place 2 sts on cable needle and hold in back of
work, k2, k2 from cable needle.

2/2 left cable: Place 2 sts on cable needle and hold in front of
work, k2, k2 from cable needle.

5/5 right cable: Place 5 sts on cable needle and hold in back of
work, k5, k5 from cable needle.

5/5 left cable: Place 5 sts on cable needle and hold in front of
work, k5, k5 from cable needle.

Ssp on RS, ssk on WS.

P2tog on RS, k2tog on WS.

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TIPS & SHORTCUTS

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count doesn’t
match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t
match that in the pattern, your item will not be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and shape of the garment. To
determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure your body. Then you can calculate the garment
size depending on how much ease you want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the
garment measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the color strands around
each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on
the right side.

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The colors may vary from
time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two rows from one and two
rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BOR = beginning of row/round,
cc = contrasting color, col = color, cont = continue, dec = decrease, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop,
inc = increase, m = marker, mm = millimeters, mc = main color, patt = pattern, pm = place marker, rep = repeat,
rnd(s) = round/rounds, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, st(s) = stitches,
tog = together, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

KNITTING
BO = bind off, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, g st = garter stitch,
k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together, kw = knitwise,
LH = left hand needle, p = purl (stitch), pw = purlwise, RH = right hand needle, ssk = slip, slip, knit,
St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front

CROCHETING
ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet, dtr = double treble crochet, hdc = half double crochet,
htr = half treble crochet, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, tr = treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet

DIFFICULTY
Beginner: Anyone with no experience knitting/crocheting. Easy techniques and clear explanations.

Adventurous Beginner: For a beginner ready to take the next step. Clear explanations so you can try some new
techniques.

Intermediate: Anyone who has knitted/crocheted for a while but who wants a challenge. More advanced
techniques and two steps occur at the same time.

Experienced: For experienced knitters/crocheters who have already tried many techniques and methods.
Advanced/uncommon techniques and several steps occur simultaneously.

© COPYRIGHT Nordanå Crafts AB. Reproduction and publication of materials and texts is not permitted without the consent of Nordanå Crafts AB.