Fitting a Land Rover 3.

9V8 into the

Defender 110
Alex Scott NZL
This is not intended to cover everything, as there are other excellent guides out on the web for
Land Rover and MGB.eg.

 Ciaran’s Land Rover EFI project

o http://www.conehead.org/
 Rover Gauge for the 14CUX etc
o http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1134539
o http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm
o http://alum.wpi.edu/~colinb/14cux_interface.html
In addition, search for LAND ROVER FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS pdf as there is a very good land rover
document covering most of the older ECU’s from 13cu to Motronic.

Electronic Ignition
If you don’t already have electronic ignition it pays to fit this. If you have the earlier GM style amplifier
it’s easier enough to fit the later Lucas type which is common to Discoveries. Try to get everything from
the donor car from the radiator to the fuel tank and hoses loom, computer, throttle cable, kick down
cable, the complete exhaust system, sensors and so on. The earlier (<1994) loom is a little easier to use
than the later one (>1995).
See the Comments at www.v8engines.com about further ignition upgrades

Cooling
I got a radiator from an early Defender TD engine, which had a cooler for the engine oil. This was a
relatively straight forward fit except that the fittings on the radiator were a different type so I
unscrewed them and fitted some Discovery ones. There is no built in cooler / heater for the AT in this
radiator, but there is one for the engine. The fan shroud from the Defender 3.5v8 seems to line up fine
with the 3.9V8A engine. It would seem from the defender parts book that a similar if not identical
radiator was used on some petrol IL4 and V8 engines. The part numbers unfortunately correlate to
chassis numbers mostly not engine types so I could not figure out the part numbers.
One chap on the internet said he was able to get his Disco V8 radiator shortened to fit the Defender
(with both oil coolers in tack). I cannot recall if he re-cored it at the same time but I expect he would
have needed to.
You need all 4 Disco oil adaptors from the Disco V8 Auto radiator then two of each of the brass fittings
in the picture below. Two of the disco adaptors are used on the radiator; the two are used to connect to
these brass fittings also in the picture.

Automatic Transmission Cooling.

These will allow you to connect (almost) any aftermarket oil cooler without modifying the factory
gearbox hoses that run alongside the engine. The disco part in the picture fits the rigid and flexible
pipes ends that run from the gearbox.
3 fittings for each of the two transmission cooler lines, if you are lucky your fitting supplier might have a
female hose adaptor, but I had to get the two parts as they didn’t have the female one.
These brass fittings (joiner and hose adaptor) came from EHL (Energy Hydraulics Limited) New
Plymouth.
I used a Rover Tom Cat (R220 turbo) cooler, only because I had one, shortened the pipes then fitted
some brass tube adaptors. Used the other two fittings from the disco radiator to connect the piping up
(as adaptors) mounted the cooler in front of the radiator. Note the transmission plumbing in this project
does not use the main radiator as the radiator only had one cooling loop for oil and it was the engine
side. Fit a new transmission filter before you put the cross member back in.
I will probably do more to the transmission plumbing later I saw this solution as a stopgap solution. It
seems that the transmission should be neither too hot nor too cool.

1Disco v8 oil cooler radiator connectors versus Defender TD Radiator connectors

Disco fitting on the left, the “other” fitting on the right.

More on Transmission and Engine Oil Cooling (Disco 2 V8).

It would appear as if the Disco 2 V8, that the engine oil cooler and transmission oil cooling lines DO
NOT use the main radiator in anyway. They have their own coolers, the lines do not run through the
radiator like they do on the Disco 1.

Engines
My 3.9V8A engine is a multi-belt engine with “external” oil pump not serpentine 14 head bolts and
non-composite gasket. The serpentine engines are as far as I know the 3.9V8B engine (has the newer
crank driven oil pump / 10 bolt heads / composite gaskets / camshaft retaining plate - and different
timing gears too to the earlier and later engines!) it might be that the fan on the 3.9v8B engine is in a
different place and then the shroud might not fit.
About the engines, ignoring the various sizes and talking only about 3.9 and 4.0 engines. I understand
there are 3 main variants and Im not sure about these points- and it might depend on the target market
(country).
1990 to 1994 3.9 “A” engine based largely on the 3.5 engine uses 14CUX engine management and has
multiple belts, dizzy driven oil pump, solid single layer head gaskets 14 bolt heads.
1995 to 1999 3.9V8 “B” engine (as it is called in the Land Rover 3.9 -4.2 v8 rebuild manual). has the
newer crank driven oil pump/ 10 bolt heads / composite gaskets / camshaft retaining plate - and
different timing gears too (to both the earlier and later engines!) it might be that the fan on the 3.9v8B
engine is in a different place. Probably only used in the Disco & possibly late RRC. Still uses the 14CUX
EMS. Might be worth getting a later chip or ECU if you are having problems with your car. I think the
last of them might be all dated 1996. I think the later ones also have a factory plug in EPROM (rather
than soldered in).
4.0 Engine possibly as early as 1995 (P38) this used the GEMS engine management. Engine
management was changed when the Disco II – Thor and Motronic EMS came along circa 1999 with a
significantly different longer tract inlet bunch of bananas manifold…4.0 has larger mains and can / is
have cross bolt main bearing caps. Generally a smoother nicer engine (ignoring the gossip about
cracked blocks and things). For GEMS and Motronic engines there is no mechanical distributor. Some
Disco 1’s might had this engine (according to information Ive read - Disco 1s from 95 to 99 used it) but
I’ve never seen one they always seem to have the 3.9 A or B engine.

Gearbox cross member.

It is commonly suggested (do they know or are they speculating) on the internet use a Discovery
automatic cross member. No. the chassis rails in the Defender are deeper than the Discovery one and
the cross member ends flanges are too short and they are oddly shaped. I had to cut and grind off the
end plates and weld new ones on. This was quite a big job in itself…I had a spare chassis on hand so I
welded the badgered cross member up with the chassis slightly spread – it should be a tight fit…. Once
I had welded mine up it was not as tight as it should be (it shrunk). It would only just sit there on its own.
I used it anyway….Or buy a cross member from Rovers North NASv8 automatic cross member. I guess
it might be possible to drill holes in the chassis for the disco cross member but this is not acceptable in
our country. I am sure the holes through the chassis are sleeved. Even remaking the cross member is
probably questionable but at least that part is semi-sacrificial or I could argue that it was a repair or as
good as the OEM part. For the end plates You don’t need to get someone to cut pieces from sheet steel,
you can buy flat bar in the appropriate size by the meter from your steel supplier.
2The item from Rovers North America.

Rear Body Wiring Loom Route.

On my car, this entered the chassis inner surface at the front under the brake booster (RHD) and come
out near the rear of the chassis. There is a grommet both ends. When the later disco (4-2-1 or the
catalytic one) exhaust system was fitted the exhaust was near as touching it. SO, I took the loom out of
the chassis (pulled it from front to back leaving the back end in tact – be gentle with it push and pull –
two people one each end and feed it in as you pull from the rear), check it over, rewrapped it in new
insulation tape (USE GOOD quality stuff from a good electrical wholesaler, not the cheap ones from the
home depot) then put retrofit black conduit over it, and layed over the chassis outriggers for the most
part and tied it into place. I pulled a drawer wire back with the loom and left it in place, in case for
some reason I needed to put the loom back in. my loom was in good nick apart from a slight burn from
the exhaust and a minor graze in the middle of the loom.
There are some through chassis bolts at the front that hold the firewall in place, these also interfered
with the exhaust as they were longer than they needed to be. I simply cut the end off flush with the nut.
It is easy to miss this though as they are above the exhaust and the only tell-tale might be punctured
exhaust a little later on (yes it happened) not to mention a little of the usual frustration fitting any
exhaust system under a car. The front pipes with cats are quite heavy and awkward and much bad
language certainly helps. No it does not.
Health warning!

While I was doing all this – I got a nasty-nasty cough (head cold type thing) and ended up getting a
hernia in the groin–, which then required surgery. It serves as a reminder though – to use lifting
equipment, it is quite likely that the cough could have aggravated a land rover induced injury.

Power Steering Hose.

Defender power steering hose from the pump to the steering box. Replaced this with a new Discovery
one, only it didn’t fit easily. I had to bend it quite a lot but carefully to get the pump end in place. To
bend it I mounted it on the pump snubbed it up and gently pushed it “up” while bending it. I got it to fit.
Why did I change it… the pumps have different fittings. Thread is the same I think but the sealing
system is different. My replacement engine had a hose on it but it was loose and when I went to tighten
it, it twisted the pipe (piped had rusted to the nut) there was no way out other than to wreck it.

Exhaust Manifolds.
Fitted the Discovery twin port jobbies and ground out the ports at the engine end of the manifold to
match the gaskets. I expect this should be beneficial, as it should reduce the opportunity for exhaust
gases getting back into the engine during exhaust inlet valve timing overlap. I think the engines sound
better too (a little more raspy) as I also did this to my Disco1 when I had the engine out. The body rear
loom needs removing from the chassis as the disco manifolds will melt it.

Fuel Pump.
I tried using an exterior pump / after burner off the intank pump. It was enough to get the car running
and driving, but it kept stalling. I then bought a new pump (for an early EFi range rover classic). It
bolted into the tank in place of the defender one. Direct replacement and works perfectly. Note there
was already a hole in my floor almost directly above the tank. I loosened the tank and dropped it about
an inch, it was just enough to get the old pump out / new one in.
PRC 7018 pickup extra fuel tank petrol probably carburettor only (pressed tank)
PRC 7019 90 in tank fuel pump possibly carburettor only for some OLD Series STLYE tanks (maybe)
under seat tank 110.
PRC 7020 110 rear tank petrol probably carburettor only.
PRC 8318 110 EFI Petrol Intank pump – maybe (it was in my case) a direct replacement for the carb
one if switching to EFI. You need to fit higher-pressure flexible hoses. This pump used in early EFI RRC
also.
The Fuel tank level sensor is a separate device item unlike later models where they are mounted on the
same larger in tank assembly.
Replace the hand brake cable – cheap and much easier to do while the gearbox is out. Fit new clevis
pins and so on – I had to drill the old ones out they would not come out otherwise. You need to keep the
brake assembly for the vehicle as they are different to the Disco one. Really easy to swap over though.
Liberally lubricate all the external fittings here - I think. Hard to buy clevis pins these days I found.

Engine and Gearbox Mounts

Always Fit new engine mounts mine looked ok but one simply fell apart as soon as the outgoing engine
was lifted. I replaced all four which I was intending to do anyway but it was still interesting that one fall
apart.
New bolts (8.8 grade metric) washers and NYLOK nuts for chassis gearbox mounts and cross member
as they were very rusty. I used thicker galv washers rather than the normal ZP thin washers.
8.8 M8x100x1.5 for the gearbox mounts I think
8.8 M10x100x1.5 for the gear box cross member I think and some short bolts for the lower tabs.
I used the Discovery RHS gearbox mount but had to cut some off it to get it to fit as some body mount
brackets were in the way on the chassis. Left one goes on fine. The Defender ones might have fitted
except I misplaced one and they were very rusty anyway. The Disco ones on hand were in excellent
condition.

Fuel Inertia Relay

Fit a crash detecting fuel cut off inertia relay. These are intended to cut the fuel pump off in a crash.
These EFI pumps can dispense a lot of fuel in a short time.

Other Relays
I had problems with power leakage, assumed the battery was stuffed, went and bought another battery,
and a few days later still had a flat battery. Turned out that I had used a wrong relay on the fuel pump
relay so the O2 heaters were on when then should be off and visa versa. Replaced the FUEL relay that I
had used, with one that has two 87 outputs (not a change over type) rather than 87 and 87A (change
over type) old battery wasn’t perfect but was probably ok just ( I didn’t keep it the battery people took
it).
Speed Transmitter Cable and Sensor.
I bought a new inline transmitter (AMR3386) and
made a bracket for it. The speedo cables – the
gear box to transmitter is not hard to find and is
cheap. I bought a new gearbox to speedo cable
(Defender PRC6023 ) and an early disco one
(from transducer to speedo PRC6278) and I
customised the transmitter to speedo one from two
cables. I cut carefully the sheaths about a foot and
a bit from the sensor end and crimped the two
part sheaths together using an electrical cable
crimp joiner which I drilled out the inside of, to
suit. I think it was a 35mm2 cable joining 3Speed transmitter for the ECU but check the wires are
crimp… and crimped it with a proper soldered properly before fitting it.
hydraulic crimp tool (hex shaped- local electrical
wholesaler might do it for you) It wasn’t overly successful as it felt like one end(the other was fine)
would come out if I pulled it. If I roughed up the sheath first with sandpaper and put some glue on it first
it might be better. I put some self gluing heavy duty heatshrink over the top and a few inches either
way. I didn’t shorten the inside drive cable I kept the whole drive cable from the defender cable
assembly so the whole thing is about 1 foot and a bit too long, but it works! Note the two sheaths must
be the right length all up measure and cut the new short bit carefully.
Check the speed transducer before installation one of the wires had broken on mine (brand new) they
had used the crappiest wire. I managed to solder it back on by after pulling out the easy to remove
water seal then refitted the seal. A little stronger wire would have been nice for an extra 5p (or 2 pound
as long as it was made well). I bolted the bracket under one of the gearbox crossmember bolts – I
think.
Alternatively Europa Spares UK may have a digital speedo you can fit and use the Sensor that goes on
the transfer box.

Automatic Transmission
While the gearbox or Transfer case is out, separate the two and fit a new spline adaptor (unless it has
no sign of wear) and seal between the transfer case and gearbox lubricate it well hard massage
molybdenum grease into it carefully (don’t blame me if this doesn’t work or causes problems but it
seemed to me the best thing to do).
Also consider having the clutch in the torque converter overhauled. Not terribly expensive (on its
own).
I think I used Lincoln automatics in Palmerston nth. They mill open the TC and fit new clutch parts.

Automatic Shifter
I do not like the shifters used in the Disco 1 (neither the early one nor the later one). What I would have
liked to use is the Disco II jobbie but could not find one. It seems they are possibly less well made (like
many things on the Disco II) than the earlier ones and therefore scarce second hand.
I used a Jaguar XJ40 J-gate shifter which I modified so that 1st gear can be selected. You then need to
make up a new control arm at the gear box. It needs to point up and back rather than down and
forward. Unfortunately turning the original one around 180 degrees didn’t quite have it go back far
enough so I had to make my own out of 5mm steel to be safe I also moved(located) the hole for the
cable inwards to the pivot point by a couple of millimetres. The LR ZF gearbox used has the two mount
holes for the Jaguar cable but I think I had to drill the holes out slightly on the Jaguar cable bracket.
I think a BMW 318 Circa 1995 shifter might also work (it has 4 gear positions too) but again you will
need to address the control rod radius issue at the gearbox control arm as the stroke length is different
you so need to address the stroke centre (for want a of a better word) and the stroke length(radius of
the pivot). BTW the Disco 2 shifter might be the same as used in the BMWs.

Transfer Case ratio.

If you were using large diameters tyres you would probably better to go with a 1.4 ratio TF case. If
you’re using low profile (Disco diameter for example) tyres (I am using 265 70 16) then you could use
the 1.2 ratio TF case or use the 1.4 TF case for better pickup speed. The 1.2 ratio and 235 70 16 tyres
will be doing about 2200rpm at 100kmh. This unfortunately is at the bottom of the torque curve – the
torque drops of quite quickly at this point (also at about 88 kmhr and 235 70 16 and 1.2 ratio with the AT
the torque converter unlocks :-( ) . So I wouldn’t recommend using a 1.2 ratio case with larger tyres.
Presumably also with the 1.4 ratio TF case the torque converter would lock up / unlock at a lower speed
(70 to 80 kmhr) which might be useful and might actually provide better average fuel consumption than
the higher ratio.
I would probably ere towards the 1.4 if I could but I used the 1.2
Then again, perhaps you are allowed to drive faster than 100km/hr in your country.

Gear box ZF4HP22 ZF4HP22 ZF4HP22 ZF4HP22

RPM 2000 2150 2350 2500
3 1 1 1 1
4 0.728 0.728 0.728 0.728
sample 0.728 0.728 0.728 0.728
T/F Case 1.2 1.2 1.4 1.4
diff 3.54 3.54 3.54 3.54
tyre size
diam mm 830 777 830 777
KM/Hr 101 102 102 101
MPH/ 63 63 63 63
4:Tyre sizes transfer box ratio and speed.

According to the Garmin device my 110 speedo is exactly accurate at 100km/hr (ie no room for error).
Disco transfer case, ZFhp22, 265 70 16 tyres.
http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/calc/ratio_calc.html
http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_size_calculators.html

Radiator
Discovery top radiator hose needs shortening and
joining in the middle. I bought one of those inlet
temperature sensor sleeves for about 5bucks and
shortened the discovery top hose. Worked fine. I
just plugged the 1/4 NPT hole. Used the Defender
v8 bottom hose. The Discovery radiator bottom
hose expects a curved bottom radiator connection
whereas the Defender radiator is a straight out
connection. If you manage to fit the Discovery
lower hose you will need the Discovery header
tank as it has the extra limb that goes to the
bottom of the expansion tank. To fit the defender
expansion bottle I had to use a T in the ¼? Or 5/16th? Line between the manifold and the radiator top,
as this radiator only had one off ¼ (or 5/16?) outlet the removed one had two.
Front engine panel / grill panel.
I had this problem on both the Stage 1 V8 and the Defender 110. This is hard to get the side out bolts.
They were rusty and I had to cut through the side tabs of the front centre panel. Count on using new
bolts and new captive nuts here and some fender washers after you’ve had to cut the side of the front
centre panel.
Oh…and its not a 5 minute job expect to spend some time on it.

Throttle cable
I used the Disco v8 cable and made a little fork in the pictures below to bolt it down to the kick panel /
firewall using one of the existing two bolts for the throttle. The cable I took out of the Defender had its
own nut to hold it in place the Disco one did not have one. I needed the custom fork to hold it in place (I
don’t know what would have held it in place in the Discovery – some push-fit thing maybe).

DC+ wiring
I mounted a buss bar insulator (from electrical wholesaler) under the bonnet next to the clutch pedal
(which has now been removed). This boss takes the battery cable, the starter cable, the brown wires to
the body loom & alternator. The idea of this boss is to provide an accessible jump start point, as my
seats (from a RRC) are bolted in and the battery isn’t dead easy to get to. I am hoping to find a long hex
nut to fit on top so that jumper leads have something to hang on to. Also there is now only one cable
going to the starter (as well as the solenoid cable) instead of 4 or so. I used welding cable for this sort
of thing. The electrical wholesaler will probably crimp it for you too if you ask them.

Starter motor
I bought a starter motor from LRDirect for about 70GBP. It’s not a Bosch one – but it is identical in every
way as far as I can make out and hasn’t let me down yet.
Starting the engine.
Check the static timing, plug lead order, fuel connections mount bolts, bell housing bolts, torque
converter bolts.
Place the transfer case lever in neutral, the gearbox in park, hand brake on.
To avoid starting problems turn the ignition to on and listen for the fuel pump(s) to run for a few
seconds – it should turn off again (without cranking) repeat several times until the pump sounds like it
has pressurised the line. Check for fuel leaks before proceeding. As you turn the key back to off you
should also hear the idle valve being pulsed (to open) also. Note the pump if you have wired it
correctly is switched on and then off again by the ECU. The ECU will not leave the pump running if the
engine is not running.
Turn the ignition on wait for a few seconds then crank. Don’t use throttle, the ECU takes care of all that.
Allow the engine to run for a few minutes checking in particular the water level and the automatic
transfer fluid and the power steering fluids. Also check for leaks especially fuel leaks – well any leaks
are a pain.
With regard to coolant though – if you fill the radiator from the top hose with the heater matrix line pipe
off (or using the bleed cap on earlier models) ive not had to top the level up on my cars. Always use the
right coolant (OATS).

Air filter
Range rover classic note the bracket on the RH end. I don’t have one of these, wouldn’t mind one
though. I used an XJ40 one in the end and quite happy with the Xj40 jobbie.
I ended up using an airbox from a Jaguar XJ40 4.0 it fitted where the old clutch box used to be (now
removed).

My favourite parts suppliers

Mamaku 4x4 in New Zealand.
www.lrdirect.com
www.britishparts.co.uk
And I have to acknowledge Rovers North as I used their picture above but Ive never used them.
www.roversnorth.com
I’ve also used www.paddockspares.com (good prices for Disco 2 air springs)
And Rimmer Bros. www.rimmerbros.com
http://whitepages.co.nz/w/mamaku-4wd-mamaku/
All of the above are reasonable, but I think the RimmerBros are most polite and helpful people and the
parts are on the same physical site (unlike some others), On one occasion (the timing gear issue) the
chap on the phone at Rimmer Bros was happy to go and have a look at the timing gear to make sure it
didn’t have the lump on the gear that interfered with the camshaft retaining bolts for the 3.9V8 B
engine. He was surprised and pleased to now know the difference. It’s the same part number but with B
on the end.
LR Direct have sent me parts diagrams when we have been unsure of the part numbers.
The thing I really like about www.lrdirect.com and www.rimmerbros.com is that you can choose the
quality of the parts. At LRdirect you will need to know the part numbers to order but once you’ve got
that you can select the component source.
Read this bit carefully and take it in: Try and buy OEM or LR parts where possible. OEM (original
equipment manufacturer) parts are generally the same part as the Land Rover part but not in Land
Rover packaging. Other (non OEM) parts might be the same or usually different.
I have received some items, which are intended to be ok, are not OEM or LR and have not lasted or
have not been suitable and my advice is to buy LR or OEM (original equipment in plain box).

Wiring Looms
One key point of difference is the ignition on wire colour earlier are white/red later white/slate.
One of these loom pictures has been modified for LPG but that’s not important. What is important is the
battery supply (brown) Switched Supply See text above, fuel pump supply(white and Violet) and the
start lock out loop (Orange and Black) , speed sensor (Yellow) and of course GROUND(blacks) to the
engine block must be well earthed to Block AND Chassis. Interrupting the Orange and Black wire
should prevent the ECU from firing. The same circuit also needs to interrupt the starter relay if it’s an
automatic. Another thing to note is that the factory electrical manuals are only a guide. Sometimes they
change things including wiring colours and how the circuit is run. The Alarm and start lockout wiring is
a good example of confusing wire colours and wiring that Does NOT always match the book. It would
also seem that if they have run out of wire then they use something similar but not the same.
Please note the connector shown at the loom is not exactly a specific single connector with a specific
number of pins. It is only representative. The earlier engines had 9 pins and some odd wires the later
looms have lots of pins and more connectors and odd “single” wire connections.
5Example of the earlier loom (probably the 3.9A engine) more or less
6Example of the later loom (Probably the 3.9B Engine more or less)

Homemade plywood centre console and modified xj40 shifter (so I can select first gear) nice friend
made new insert for the shifter places.

Electric windows
USB and Cigar fitting (not yet livened).
ECU is mounted behind the shifter under a panel (under the cubby box, not shown here).
Discovery gaiter, I found a long hex (M10?) “nut” at the local engineers shop it did a nice job of
bringing the transfer leaver up to the right height. The nut I think is about 50 or 60 mm long (one of
those “lucky” finds – quite by accident).
ECU is under the carpet in the recess behind shifter. Cubby box and console made from NZ Ecoply
15mm and plain d4s timber.
Looking for seatbelts, klippan Autoliv parts can be got from Seat belt solutions in auckland. Very
helpful. Klippan autoliv I belive are the correct belts for these land rovers.
7Spare ignition amplifier module. The ecu is underneath this panel.
8Rover T2.0 Tomcat oil cooler bolted inbehind grill (this is used for the transmission cooling)

9Discovery running boards

10The lump, note cheap silicon hoses with some aluminium air intake parts, only just fits it’s a little noisey would like try a airbox
rather than an open air cleaner.

11Later Ive now fitted a jaguar XJ40 airbox in place of the cone filter. Clips straight upto the aiflow meter easy peasy.
Home made gantry.
To drop and raise the gearbox I used shorter poles
and set the beam through the front door windows
(yes they were down).
Then using longer poles when extracting the engine.
On a flat surface the car can be rolled back once the
engine is raised. Worked a treat and the gantry was
suprisingly stable. The top beam is 75x50x4mm, the
pipe sockets are 50mm nb sch 80 pipe. The stands
are standard scaffold tube the base is 100x100x3mm
with more of the 50mm nb sch 80 pipe welded into
them. Welded the ends in from the base (drilled a
series of 10mm holes to weld through, and welded on
top also. To make sure they are square I welded the
two bases SHS onto the tube on a flat surface
(checking for square / parallel before welding), then
cut the tube to separate the two bases once it was
mostly welded up. 1000KG endless chain. The
scaffold pipes fit just nicely into the 50mm nb sch 80
pipe. Good for all sorts of things once you’ve made
one. I can also back my trailer under the gantry.
Notice also the hitch at the top The load should not be
concentrated at one point it should be spread, it could fold the metal if concentrated into one place.

Comments from other people:

A hotter spark plug will provide significantly better combustion at idle & town driving conditions.

Moving from the standard 7 to a 6 heat range plug may well help improve the symptoms of your over
rich condition.

As an experiment I am trialing a set of BPR6EIX iridium plugs, I did 350 miles over the bank holiday
weekend and it definitely idles smoother and has a crisper throttle response on these plugs.
Multi-electode spark plugs DO NOT suit the land rover V8 due to the combustion chamber shape and
valve locations.

To do next
I have the 4.6 on hand to put in, but need to do Megasquirt II which I don’t yet have on hand and EDIS8.
12Someone else’s 4.0 in a defender