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(Download PDF) Ancient Brews Rediscovered and Re Created First Edition Calagione Online Ebook All Chapter PDF
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This volume is intended as a general information
resource for readers interested in the history and re-
creation of ancient beverages, along with meals that
might have accompanied them. Neither the publisher
nor the author can guarantee that every reader will
be able to re-create any particular beverage or meal
from the instructions given or that every reader will
be able to drink any re-created beverage without any
adverse effects. As of press time, the URLs displayed
in this book link or refer to existing websites. The
publisher is not responsible for, and should not be
deemed to endorse or recommend, any website other
than its own or any content available on the internet
(including, without limitation, any website, blog
page, or information page) that is not created by W.
W. Norton. The author, similarly, is not responsible
for third-party material.
For Homo imbibens, today and in the past
“There’s the story, then there’s the real story, then
there’s the story of how the story came to be told.
Then there’s what you leave out of the story.
Which is part of the story too.”
List of Illustrations
Foreword by Sam Calagione
Preface
CHAPTER 1
The Holy Grail of Extreme Fermented Beverages
CHAPTER 2
Midas Touch: An Elixir Fit for a Middle Eastern King
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
CHAPTER 3
Chateau Jiahu: A Neolithic Brew to Settle Down with in China
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
CHAPTER 4
Ta Henket: An Herbal Bomb for Our Gregarious African Ancestors
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
CHAPTER 5
Etrusca: A European “Grog” before Wine Surges In
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
CHAPTER 6
Kvasir: Nordic Heat for Frigid Nights
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
CHAPTER 7
Theobroma: A Sweet Concoction to Stir Romance
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
CHAPTER 8
Chicha: Chewing Our Way to Corn Beer
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
CHAPTER 9
What Next? A Cocktail from the New World, Anyone?
RECIPES
Homebrew Interpretation
Meal Pairing
Acknowledgments
Select Bibliography
Index
Sam Calagione
I met Dr. Pat McGovern at a beer festival in 1999, on his home turf
of the University of Pennsylvania’s museum. We were introduced to
each other over pints of beer by the British writer Michael Jackson—
the patriarch of the modern beer journalism world. When we first
started working together on Midas Touch, he came to our brew pub
early in the morning to make the first starter batch. We had our
coffee, we chatted, and we started questioning where the honey
should come from for the batch. Should it come from Turkey or
Italy? And then, without asking, Dr. Pat walked behind the bar and
at 9:00 in the morning he filled up his coffee cup with our Chicory
Stout. At that moment, listening to him passionately talk about
which honey they would’ve used historically and arguing back about
which honey would contribute the most nuanced and delectable
aromas to the beer, I realized, “this is going to be a fun journey with
this guy. He knows his shit but he’s also not afraid to have a
breakfast beer.” And we have been great friends ever since. I think
the reason that we hit it off so well is that our perspectives and
personalities are more complimentary than they are overlapping. Dr.
Pat sums up this reality very well when he says that his focus is on
the past and mine is on the present.
Even though our daily work at Dogfish Head is on the present,
and indeed the future, of craft brewing, looking to the past with Dr.
Pat has proven personally and professionally rewarding to me. I
think my invaluable and inventive colleagues at Dogfish Head, like
Mark Safarik, Leader of the Dogfish Head Brewing Team, and Chef
Kevin Downing, as well as Doug Griffith of Extreme Brewing, all of
whom have had the chance to work with Dr. Pat, would say the
same thing. And I believe any homebrewer, commercial brewer, or
beer lover can find as much or more opportunity for creative
inspiration by looking backwards to how our ancestors approached
producing and consuming fermented beverages as by relying on
their own forward-looking creativity.
I began homebrewing one month after graduating from college,
and months after producing my first batch I began writing a
business plan to open my own brewery. As a 24-year-old kid, I knew
I’d be starting my brewery very small. And as an English major, my
experience was limited to bartending and waiting tables, so I knew I
needed a unique and well-differentiated business model to stand out
against the more established first-generation craft brewers—then
called microbrewers—that had popped up across America
throughout the 80s. This was the early 90s, the dawn of the Internet
era, but I did my research the old-fashioned way at the New York
City Public Library. I researched the beginning phases of the
American locavore food movements, studying everyone from Alice
Waters at Chez Panisse to James Beard, the great East Coast local
food evangelist.
In researching the contemporary locavore movements in
America, I also stumbled upon the concept of the Reinheitsgebot, a
German beer purity law—which, ironically, is celebrating its 500th
anniversary as I write this—that declared only water, barley, and
hops could be used in the production of beer (later, when the role of
yeast was better understood, the rules were revised to include it).
When I read that, I decided that it would be my call to arms and
Dogfish Head’s great source of differentiation: we would be the first
brewery committed to brewing the majority of its beer outside of the
Reinheitsgebot conventions, using culinary ingredients from around
the world. In 1995, our initial beers were a Chicory Stout and Raison
D’Etre, made with raisins and beet sugars. Then we branched out
with some beers I like to think of as “historical,” such as an Ethiopian
Tej, made with honey and tree leaves, and a medieval British
Braggot, made by fermenting honey and barley together. Originally,
people thought that Dogfish Head was being disrespectful to
brewing traditions by making beers with culinary ingredients instead
of just yeast, hops, and barley. Which is why it was so fortuitous that
I got to meet Dr. Pat. As it turns out—and as you’ll read in this book
—the idea behind that 500-year-old law is actually a comparatively
modern limitation.
Once Dr. Pat and I began doing work together, brewing these, as
we call them, “liquid time capsules” and bringing these traditions
back to life; I could finally hold my head up high. History and
science were on my side to prove that the Reinheitsgebot is nothing
more than a relatively recent attempt at censorship. Through my
work with Dr. Pat, I’ve learned that so many different civilizations, in
so many different parts of this world, have long made beers limited
only by their creativity and the range of natural ingredients that
grew in the lands that they called home. By using science and the
physical remains of these ancient brews when creating our recipes,
Dr. Pat brought a much higher level of authenticity to a process that
I had already begun by making my own historic beers or making
beers with culinary ingredients that had no historic touch to them
and just came from my imagination.
That’s not to say that re-creating the ancient recipes didn’t
involve an element of creativity. Dr. Pat’s research gave us laundry
lists of ingredients, but it was on us to evolve that into a modern
interpretation of an ancient recipe. As a contemporary brewer, I had
to balance being faithful to Dr. Pat’s findings with being faithful to
the expectations of modern beer drinkers. In most of the homebrew
recipes in this book there is at least one liberty that we intentionally
took for the sake of the modern beer drinker—for nearly everything
we suggested using a single, pure strain of yeast and boiling the
beer to create a sterile environment. It’s highly probable that every
recipe in this book, when enjoyed in the era it was first produced,
would’ve been fermented by bacteria and wild yeast. They almost
certainly all tasted most similar to modern Belgian lambics, which
are intentionally sour and acidic because they’re brewed with wild
yeast and bacteria to this day. Beyond taking that one liberty, we
work really hard to be as authentic as possible.
Our times drinking the test batches together are as important
and as informative as any other part of the process. Dr. Pat is not
only a great scientist, but also a great beer drinker. He has
developed a very acute palate and he’s very involved with me and
my Dogfish Head coworkers in developing the reimagined recipes. As
you might expect, our styles of work are inherently different. As an
entrepreneur, I get an endorphin rush from facing risks and taking
chances. I like to just throw stuff at the wall to see what sticks, what
works best in combination. Dr. Pat, on the other hand, uses the
scientific method. His inclination is to change one variable at a time,
and to study the minutiae of the data that comes out of his
research. Fortunately for us, these two very different approaches
work beautifully together when implemented in a collaborative spirit.
We didn’t always agree with each other when working on these
recipes, but we would always hear each other out. As an
entrepreneur, when I can spend time with someone whose
knowledge pool is so deep and somewhat separate from my own
knowledge pool, that’s incredibly valuable. I think my favorite thing
about this book is that it brings our pools of knowledge together into
one vessel, which then has something to offer historians, scientists,
and homebrewing fanatics alike. And our process of listening to each
other and reflecting on each of our areas of expertise before making
a decision makes the integrity of the recipes that much richer. The
homebrewers reading this book—or the readers who go out and buy
Dogfish Head’s Midas Touch at a liquor store—should know that
hundreds of emails and multiple debates over innumerable pints of
beers went into each of these recipes. Our different perspectives,
woven together, make the recipes way stronger from both a
historical and a contemporary perspective.
Until I started working with Dr. Pat, I would never have guessed
that human saliva contains enzymes that convert starch to sugar,
and that many different indigenous beers produced in different
regions of the world were made by humans chewing the starchy
grains and vegetation in order to begin the process of the starch-
sugar conversion. So that first time ever that we made such a beer,
we spent a whole afternoon sitting around on buckets in a
brewhouse, chewing corn and spitting it out with the saliva, I
remember having a moment, sitting there, thinking, “this is so
awesome”—in the truest sense of the word—“and so unorthodox.
We’re sitting here making a beer not only from corn but from our
saliva.” Saliva as an ingredient in the production of beer—this is
nothing new or crazy—it’s just history coming back to life.
The existential moment for me was being with Dr. Pat in the
tomb of Ti in Egypt, an archeological dig site that had, on its wall,
the oldest known artistic representation of the brewing process (see
Chapter 4). Beer making is how I make my livelihood. Being
confronted with that, having my raison d’être inscribed on a wall,
was pretty profound. The fact that that wall and that image and the
art of brewing are still around today—and that I can connect myself
to the oldest brewers—shows the power and the durability of
storytelling. Whether you’re a scientist trying to articulate your
discoveries in a published article or an entrepreneur trying to
establish a brand-new product in a crowded marketplace, the
success of your endeavor really hinges on how well you can
articulate yourself as a storyteller. I think homebrewers coming to
this book will first have their minds blown about how integral alcohol
is to our human experience, from the gaseous clouds of alcohol that
existed in the galaxy before animals were on this planet, to the
alcohol we create and consume today. Dr. Pat’s great storytelling
traces the through line between those two points, and I hope that, if
you’re reading this as a homebrewer, you continue on that path as a
fellow storyteller. My dream is that you become an evangelist to
cultural preferences aside. No doubt, they also had an appreciation
for pairing special foods with fermented beverages.
The natural process of fermentation itself, described in Chapter 1,
guarantees that we will be on approximately the right track from the
start of our re-creation if we just let nature take its course. We begin
by assembling the most likely ingredients, according to the evidence
we have. We will squash the fruit, dilute the honey, chew the wild
grains and tubers, gather up the herbs, and collect the tree saps we
think most plausible. But once we expose these products to the
environment, native yeasts and bacteria take over, and the end
result, today as in the past, should be a transformed liquid with a
plethora of aromatic compounds that combines sweetness, sourness,
and alcoholic bite, perhaps a backbone of bitterness, and some
carbonation. Before airtight containers became common, however,
people had to drink their beverages quickly before the carbon dioxide
was lost.
Homebrewers who aspire to make an interpretation of an ancient
brew needn’t be overly concerned about whether their brew kettle
and carboys are made of stainless steel, glass, or plastic. Even if
these materials were improvised by humans at relatively late dates in
our history, they will realistically carry out the same fermentation
process that made ancient fermented beverages possible.
You still may want to try out containers made of pottery, wood,
gourd, leather, or a more exotic material in keeping with ancient
times. I can attest to the meaty funkiness of a wine, fermented from
native American grapes in goat skins, which I consulted on with a
North Carolinian farmer. This experiment was tailored to what an
early Old World wine might have tasted like, since Native Americans
did not have goats until the Europeans arrived. And, as far as we
know, they never produced wine despite the profusion of grape
species in the Americas.
Because we usually don’t know the starting amounts of each
ingredient and biomarkers may degrade or be lost to groundwater
percolation, we cannot calculate exact amounts or percentages of
ingredients. We usually assume that the main ingredients were
originally present in about equal proportions. Thus, for an extreme
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VIII luku
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