Textile Testing

fiber,Yarn,fabric Testing
Concepts,Instrument
and application.
MEENAKSHI M.TECH 2ND SEM,20152005
SUBMITTED TO DR.HARINDER PAL SIR
 TEXTILE TESTING
 INTRODUCTION
 Textile testing is an important part for Textile
production,Distribution,consumption.We can also define textile testing
as the process of determining the properties of different kinds of
textile substances. The primary purpose of textile testing and analysis is
to asses textile product performance and to use test results to make
predictions about product performance must be considered in
conjunction with end use. Therefore ; test are performed with the
ultimate test Aend use in mind. Examples of testing for end-user
performance include testing draperies for light fastness or tire cords of
strength.
 What is Testing?
 Testing the way of control or the process to check or verify the nature, kind or character
of fiber,yarn ,fabric or any other material , hence control the degree of excellence.Now,
testing may be different type Fiber –length, Strength,fineness, maturity.Yarn-Strength,
count, twist.Fabric-EPI,PPI,GSM.
 OBJECTIVES OF TEXTILE TESTING
 In case of research, the result of testing will help the scientist to decide which route
should be followed.
 It helps to select the proper raw materials,Raw material is a relative term.As for
example,fiber is the raw material of spinner,yarn is the raw material of Weaver etc.
 Textile testing helps to control the different processes,such as spinning,Weaving,Dyeing ,
Finishing etc.End breakage is controlled by controlling weigh1per lap length,sliver length
and roving length . Weaving process is controlled by controlling the excessive breakage
of warp and weft yarn.Dyeing process is controlled by M:L,temprature and pressure.
 In case of product control,iy helps to ensure the fulfillment of the desired quality of the
end product.Such as the end product of spinning is yarn.
 In case of process development,it helps to improve the quality of end product by
avoiding unnecessary waste of time and money.
 In case of product development,it helps in continual search for new knowledge and to
develop new products.
 Types Of Textile Testing
 There are mainly two types of testing,one is routine
process testing and another is quality record
testing.The result of routine process testing can be
quickly in the working field.The result of quality record
testing is to be recorded for different objects to finish
the work.
Fiber Testing
 Fiber Testing: fiber Testing there are various properties of fiber have to be checked
according to an end product.Mainly fiber Testing is carried out in spinning and no
woven departments.
 Staple length
 Fiber fineness
 Strength
 Maturity
 Rigidity
 Friction
 Above properties of fibers are mainly tested on AFIS & HVI Machines.
 AFIS: ADVANCE FIBER INFORMATION SYSTEM.
 HVI: HIGH VOLUME INSTRUMENT.
Staple and filament fiber

 Staple and Filament Fibers

 Fibers with infinite length(long) are called filament fibers
 Fibers with finite length length(relatively short length ) is called staple
fibers.
YARN
 Yarn: Yarn is a long continuous twisted strand of natural or
synthetic fibers, suitable for use in the production of
textiles,sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and rope
making .
 Yarn Testing: Yarn occupies the intermediate position in the
manufacture of fabric from raw material. Yarn results are therefore
essential, both for estimating the quality of raw material and for
controlling the quality of fabric produced.
Yarn Testing
 The important characteristics of yarn being tested are,

 yarn twist
 linear density
 yarn strength
 yarn elongation
 yarn evenness
 yarn hairiness etc.
Yarn Twist
 Twist is defined asthe spiral disposition of the components of yarn, which is
generally expressed
as the number of turns per unit length of yarn, e.g turns per inch, turns per
meter, etc.
 Direction of twist is expressed as "S"-Twist or "Z"-Twist. Direction depends
upon the direction of rotation
of the twisting element.
 Twist take up is defined as, "The decrease in length of yarn on twisting,
expressed as a percentage
of the length of yarn before twisting.
 Twist is essential to keep the component fibres together in a yarn.
 The strength, dyeing, finishing properties, the feel of the finished product etc.
are all dependent
on the twist in the yarn.
LINEAR DENSITY OR COUNT OF YARN:
 The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or
count.
 There are a number of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they
are classified as follows

 DIRECT SYSTEM:

 English count(Ne)
 Metric count(Nm)
 French count(Nf)
 INDIRECT SYSTEM:

 Tex
 Denier
 Ne : No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound
 Nm : No of one kilometer yTex
 Denier
 Ne : No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound
 Nm : No of one kiloarn weighing in One Kilogram
 Nf : No of one kilometer yarn weighing in 0.5 kilogram
 Tex : Weight in grams of 1000 meter(1 kilometer) yarn
 Denier: Weight in grams of 9000 meter(9 kilometer) yarn
 The minimum number of sample required per count is 20 and per machine is 2.
 One of the most important requirements for a spinner is to maintain the average count
and count variation
 YARN STRENGTH AND
ELONGATION:
 Breaking strength, elongation, elastic modulus, resistance abrasion etc are some
important factors which
will represent the performance of the yarn during actual use or further processing.
Strength testing
is broadly classified into two methods
 single end strength testing
 skein strength or Lea strength
 Tensile strength of single strands of yarn
 During routine testing, both the breaking load and extension of yarn at break are usually recorded for
assessing the yarn quality. Most of the instruments record the load-elongation diagram also.
 Two types of strengths can be determined for a yarn

 Tensile strength -load is applied gradually

 Ballistic strength - applying load under rapid impact conditions
 Tensile strength tests are the most common tests and these are carried out using
either a single strand
or a skein containing a definite number of strands as the test specimen.
 The instruments used for determining the tensile strengh are classified into three
groups, based
on the principle of working.
 CRT - Constant rate of traverse
 CRE - Constant rate of extension
 CRL - Constant rate of loading
 The uster Tensorapid applies the CRE principle of tensile testing. Constant Rate of
Extension describes
 In the instruments of CRE type, the application of load is made in such a way that the
rate of elongation
of the specimen is kep constant. In the instruments of the CRL type,the application of
load is made
in such a way that the rate of loading is constant througout the duration of the test.
This type of
instruments are usually preferred for accurate scientific work. In the CRE and CRL
types of instruments,
it is easy to adjust the "time-to-break" while this adjustment is not easy in the CRT
types of instruments.
Measurement of yarn
hairiness using uster
Zweigle
Uster tester
Machine
Fabric Testing
struCtural Properties
Fabric Count
Fabric count is the ends/inch and picks/inch for woven fabrics; wales/inch and
courses/inch for knitted fabric. It is expressed by A × B (example 100 × 100),
where
A and B are ends/inch and picks/inch, respectively, for woven fabrics and
wales/inch and courses/inch for knitted fabrics. Fabric count measurement is
done with the help
of a pick glass. The fabric is placed flat and relaxed on a table. Then, the
number of
yarns/loops is counted individually in one inch using pick glass in both the direc-
tions of the fabrics and reported.
 Crimp
 Crimp is the waviness of the warp and weft yarns in a fabric due to
their interlace-
 ments (Booth 1986). Crimp is expressed in percentage (%) and is
defined as the ratio
 of difference between the straightened thread length and the
distance between the
 ends of the threads while in cloth to the distance between the ends of
the threads
 while in cloth, expressed as a percentage. To check the crimp % of
warp, a fabric of
 specific dimension is cut (say l0 × l0). The length of the fabric is the
length of warp
Length and Width
 The length and width of a fabric can be measured using a measuring
tape/scale. The
 fabric length is the distance between one end to the other end of the
fabric and is
 measured keeping the fabric flat and without any undue tension. The
length of the
 fabric is expressed either in yards or metre. The fabric width is the
distance between
 one edge to the other edge of the fabric and is measured at several
places keeping the
 fabric flat and under no tension. The width of the fabric is the average
of the readings
 taken.
 Thickness
 Fabric thickness is the distance between the upper
and lower surface of the fabric
 and can be measured by a precision thickness
gauge known as fabric thickness tester
 and a circular pressure foot is pressed on the fabric
from top with a standard load.
 The thickness can be noted directly from the dial
indicator in millimetre.
Shrinkage
 The dimensional stability of a fabric is a measure of the extent to which it
keeps its
 original dimensions (length and width). A higher dimensional stability of
textiles is
 always desirable. A decrease in dimension is known as shrinkage, while
an increase
 in dimension is known as growth. Usually fabrics shrink during garment
manu-
 facturing and washing due to relaxation of the fibres/yarns, swelling of
fibres and
 felting. To calculate the shrinkage of a fabric, a specimen of size 50 cm ×
50 cm is
 taken and marks are placed at a distance of minimum 25 cm in both
fabric (along the length and width of the fabric). After marking, the fabric specimen
is washed in a washing machine with suitable specifications. Washing is followed by
rinsing and drying. Dried specimen is conditioned in standard testing atmosphere
and the markings are re-measured. The percentage shrinkage of the fabric can be
calculated using the following formula:

Percentageshrinkage
Originallength -Final Length ×100%
Original length
 Area density

 Areal density of a fabric is its mass/unit area (ASTM

D3776-13 2013). Areal density
 can be expressed in ounces/square yard or
grams/square metre (GSM). GSM is the
 metric system of expressing areal density of a fabric
and is widely used in the textile
 industry. A GSM cutter, cutting pad and an electric
balance can be used to find the
 GSM of the fabric. The fabric specimen is placed on
the cutting pad and is cut using
 a GSM cutter (Figure 12.16). The area of the specimen
is calculated, and the mass of
 the cut specimen is measured using an electronic
balance. Using the mass and area
 of the fabric the, areal density can be calculated in
GSM.
 Fabric strength
 Strength of a fabric is an important property that decides its durability.
 Fabric strengths are of three different types – tensile strength, tearing strength and
 bursting strength (Kothari 1999). The testing principles and methods of these three
types of strength are discussed later.
Tensile Strength
Tensile strength test is used to determine the breaking strength and elonga-
tion of textile fabrics when the load is applied along the length or width of the
fabric. Tensile strength of a fabric is defined by its ‘breaking load’ and ‘breaking
elongation’. The maximum load that ruptures the fabric is known as ‘breaking
load’, and the ratio of extension of the fabric at break to the original length,
expressed in percentage, is known as ‘breaking elongation’. Tensile strength of
fabric can be of two types – strip test and grab test – and is measured in a tensile
strength tester
In strip test, a fabric of width 2 and ½ inch is taken, and threads are removed from
both the edges until the width is reduced to 2 inches. The test length for strip test is
8 inch. Extra length of fabric should be taken so that it allows gripping the specimen
in the jaws of a tensile strength tester. The specimen is then mounted centrally in
the jaws properly to prevent any slippage. Then the load is applied till the specimen
ruptures (Kothari 1999).
In grab strength testing, the effective width of the specimen is 4 inch and the
width of the jaw used is 1 inch. This means grab test uses jaws that are narrower
than the fabric specimen and only the central 1 inch of the fabric is stressed. The test
length for strip test is 3 inch. Extra length of fabric should be taken so that it allows
gripping the specimen in the jaws of the tensile strength tester. The specimen is then
mounted in the jaws properly to prevent any slippage. Load is applied till the speci-
men ruptures
Tensile strength tester,strip test,grab test
 Abrasion Resistance
Abrasion resistance of a textile fabric is its ability to withstand loss of appearance,
surface and utility due to destructive action of surface abrasion .Abrasion resistance is
measured on Martindale Abrasion tes-ter by subjecting the textile specimen to
abrasive action. The test specimen is rubbed against the same fabric at a defined
force in the form of Lissajous .After completion of defined stages of abrasion cycles,
the degree of fuzziness and wear of the test specimen are assessed. Abrasion
resistance can also be assessed by the number of cycles of the surface abrader
required to rupture a yarnor when change in shade or appearance of the fabric
specimen is sufficient to cause the customer to complain.
 Tearing Strength
 During tear, either a single yarn breaks or a small
group of yarns break together.
 A fabric that allows the threads to group together
under the application of tearing
 force exhibits better tearing resistance. For
example, 2/2 matt or satin fabric allows
 the thread to group together (due to
comparatively less number of interlacements)
 than a plain woven fabric; therefore, a 2/2 matt or
satin fabric exhibits more tear
 strength (or tear resistance) than plain fabric.
Bursting Strength
Tensile and tearing strengths testing are generally done for woven fabrics, as
there
is a definite warp and weft direction in which the strengths can be
measured.
For knitted and non-woven fabrics, there is no such distinct direction where
the
strength is maximum and minimum. Bursting strength testing is usually used to
find out the strength for such fabrics in which the fabric is stressed in all
directions
in the same time. There are however woven fabrics that are simultaneously
stretched in all directions while in use, such as parachute fabrics, nets, tents,
etc.
and require bursting strength testing. In this test, the distending force, which
is
applied at right angles to the plane of the fabric under specific condition
resulting
fabric rupture, is measured (Kothari 1999; Saville 1999). Diaphragm bursting
tester or ball bursting tester is used to determine the bursting strength of
textiles
Thank You