M. Kedar, V. Mankar & R. Das

I J R B A T, Vol.
VI (Special Issue 1), January 2018 : 679- 687 ISSN 2347 – 517X
INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF RESEARCHES IN BIOSCIENCES, AGRICULTURE AND TECHNOLOGY
© VISHWASHANTI MULTIPURPOSE SOCIETY (Global Peace Multipurpose Society) R. No.659/13(N)
www.vmsindia.org
DYEING AND KALAMKARI PAINTING OF SILK FABRIC WITH

VEGETABLE DYE EXTRACTED FROM FICUS BENGHALENSIS L.
M. Kedar, V. Mankar & R. Das

Dept. of Fashion Design, LAD College Nagpur,
Email ID: mrunalkedar1@gmail.com
Abstract
The present investigation was carried out to revive the ancient and ethnic art of textile
dyeing, painting and printing with natural dyes. Ficus benghalensis l., as a dye source was
used on mulburry silk fabric. Pre- treatment with Myrobolan, and pre- mordanting with
Alum and Copper sulphate were carried out. Silk fabric dyed and painted fabric with the
dye extracted from Ficus benghalensis, showed fair to excellent results for light and
perspiration fastness properties while rated good to washing and rubbing fastness
properties. Further, kalamkari painting was done and evaluated for fabric element and
colour, which were rated very good to excellent. This dye also screened for its antimicrobial
activity, and showed its Excellency for it. Therefore the study suggests the use of extracts of
Ficus benghalensis l., as a natural dye has good scope in the garment industry and can be
a very good source/option for dyeing and for value addition techniques i.e. for printing and
painting of the fashion fabric/garment and can have ultimate use in eco-friendly, skin
friendly clothing and helps to encourage the global need “GO GREEN”.
Keywords: Extraction, eco-friendly, antimicrobial, value addition, kalamkari
___________________________________________________________________________
The art of dyeing is as old as at Mohenjo-Daro and the wall
our civilization. Dyed textiles paintings of Ajanta, Elora and
remnants found during Sithannavasal still demonstrate
archaeological excavations at the efficacy of dyeing craft that the
different places all over the world India was forerunner in the art of
provide evidences to the practice of natural dyeing. The history tells us
dyeing in ancient civilizations (S. that India was one of the pioneers.
Saxena 2014). The history of (P. Venkar 2010)
Indian dyes appears to have been V.H. Kumar (2004) reports,
started from the vedic period. The ornamentation of clothes by dyeing
evidences of dyed cloth is found in and painting with the plants and
the excavation of Harappan culture minerals like alum and iron were
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I J R B A T, Vol. VI (Special Issue 1), January 2018 : 679- 687 ISSN 2347 – 517X
www.vmsindia.org
carried out for centuries it Vegetable based natural dyes are

continued till the discovery of usually agro-renewable, and at the
Perkins purple in 1856 as after same time bio-degradable. In some
that synthesizing of number of cases, the waste in the dyeing
synthetic dyes caused the steady process becomes an ideal fertilizer
decline of natural dyes. therefore no problem of disposal of
With the rise in the new this natural waste (Richa Lakwal
industry of synthetic dyes there 2013).
was gradual decline in the use of Many plants thrive on waste
natural dyes which were expensive land. Thus the utilization of waste
and more difficult to use in land as well as there is no
comparison to chemical dye and additional cost or effort required to
they became a part of the past. grow it (Ashish Kumar 2007). Also
Recently the interest in the use of provides job opportunities for all
natural dyes has been growing those engaged in cultivation,
rapidly due to the result of aggregation, extraction and
stringent environmental standards application of these dyes on textile
imposed by many countries in / food / leather etc. (Richa Lakwal
response to toxic and allergic 2013).
reactions associated with synthetic Hence worldwide growing
dyes (Anita et al. 2007). consciousness about organic value
The advantages of using of eco-friendly products,
natural dyes are manifold as they environmental awareness as well
are eco-friendly, safe for body as presence of toxicity in the
contacts, unsophisticated and synthetic dyes, growing awareness
harmonized with nature while about ecosystem of life, respect
most of the synthetic dyes cause towards ecology, has revived the
environmental pollution during interest in the renewable,
their production and use, may biodegradable and eco-friendly
cause different kind of skin natural dyes (Training manual
turmoil‟s (Training manual 2011). 2011). Natural dyes are usually
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moth proof and can replace milky juice (i.e. latex) are useful
synthetic dyes in kid‟s garments parts.
and food stuffs for health and According to Ayurveda, it is
safety (Richa Lakwal 2013). astringent to bowels; useful in
Natural dyes are being treatment of biliousness, ulcers,
preferred over the synthetic dyes erysipelas, vomiting, vaginal
because they exhibit complains, fever, inflammations,
biodegradability and compatibility leprosy. According to Unani system
with the environment.Due to all of medicine, its latex is
these advantages and benefits, the aphrodisiac, tonic, vulnerary,
demand and awareness towards maturant, lessens inflammations;
use of textiles dyed with natural useful in piles, nose-diseases,
dyes i.e. green dyes or eco-dyes gonorrhea etc. The aerial root is
has been increasing constantly. styptic, useful in syphilis,
Ficus benghalensis l. biliousness, dysentery,
inflammation of liver etc. (Pankaj
Oudhia ).
MATERIALS & METHODS
MATERIALS
Dye Source
The bark of Ficus
benghalensis L. was collected from
Nagpur city and nearby area.
Substrates
Desized and bleached (white)
mulberry silk fabric was used.
Mordants and chemicals
From the family Moraceae,
For pre-treatments
common name Banyan tree Ficus
myrobolan and Alum and Copper
benghalensis is the national tree of
sulphate mordants were used.
the Republic of India. The leaves
METHOD
are large, leathery, glossy green. Preparation of fabric
Bark, root-fibers, leaves, seeds,
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For degumming of silk, For dye extraction, aqueous

neutral soap 10% (owf) and soda extraction method was used.
ash 1% (owf )were used. The M: L Extraction procedure
ratio was 1:30, mixed in water, Optimization of dyeing parameter
and brought to boil, material was processes were carried out
treated for 30 min, removed, rinsed A. Optimization of dye material
and shadow dried. concentration:
Pre-treatment (Myrobolan B. Optimization of extraction
treatment)
time:
Myrobolan was heated at
C. Optimization of pH of dye
80°C for 30min, filtrate was used
solution:
for pre-treatment. Samples were
Preparation of dye extraction of
worked for 60min the ratio (M: L)
ficus benghalensis plant
was 1:20, removed, padded, drip With 80% (owf) dye
dried (without washing) material the dye extraction was
Mordanting (pre-mordenting) prepared by keeping M: L ratio
The proportion of mordents were 1:20, strained, through nylon
Weight of sample- 10 gm mesh, care was taken.
Alum - 20% Actual Dyeing - 2gm
Copper sulphate - 5% The dyeing of silk
- 0.5gm
samples was
Procedure for alum carried out for 60 min. M: L ratio
Clear solution was prepared, was 1:30; samples were removed
with 100 ml of water, the sample squeezed and rinsed properly.
was dipped in it for 40min. After treatments
removed, drip dried. Soaping and Rinsing after
Procedure for copper sulphate treatments were carried out.
0.5 gm copper sulphate was VALUE ADDITION TECHNIQUE
dissolved in 100 ml of hot water. Kalamkari paintings was carried
Samples soaked in it for 30 min. out with dyes extracted from Ficus
with continuous handling, benghalensis with „kalam‟ on silk
removed, rinsed, drip dried. fabric.
Preparation of Dye extraction The steps involved were
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Preparation of fabric Mordan‟s, extracted diluted

De-gumming, solutions were applied to the
Myrobolan treatment fabric.
Milk Treatment
Application of colors on silk
The pretreated fabric was
fabric
dipped in creamed raw milk for Colors were applied to the
four hours with continuous desired mordented area.
handling. Squeezed, pad dried. After treatment
Preparation of ‘kalam’ of Steaming was carried out for
Kalamkari
fixation of dyes. Washed with cold
The pointed kalam for
water and shadow dried.
outlines or fine work and the flat
Assessment of color fastness
end kalam for filling of the design
properties
were used. Four color fastness
Preparation of colors for properties tests were carried out
painting
viz. to washing, to perspiration, to
For black kasim was used
rubbing (crocking) and to sunlight.
and the other were extracted colors
All testing were done by Regional
(dye) .
Laboratory, Textile Committee,
Preparation of mordants for
kalamkari painting (Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of
Diluted alum and copper
India), Textile testing services,
sulphate solutions were prepared
quality cell, Hyderabad.
with boiling in water
Assessment for anti microbial
Actual painting procedure
properties:
Preparation of fabric for
designing Dye was subjected to screen their
Myrobolan treated fabric was
antimicrobial activity.
stretched on table.
RESULT AND DISCUSSION
Application of black kasim on
Aqueous extract of ficus
silk fabric
Black kasim was applied to benghalensis.l. was found to
the outline of design. discharge colour in hot water very
Mordanting easily. Increasing the quantity of
barks is accompanied with the
increase in colour strength and
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depth in colour. CONCLUSION

The dye extract was found to The dye obtained from ficus
be suitable for silk fabric .It was benghalensis l. can be a good
observed that, the dye uptake was source of textile dye and helps to
found to be good in pre-treated, pre reduce the consumption of more
mordented method. harmful synthetic dyes and has a
Fastness Properties potential to replace some of the
Dyed silk showed good allergic, toxic and carcinogenic
fastness properties. It can be used dyes. The dye can be used for any
for commercial purposes. type of traditional as well as
The dye of Ficus contemporary painting or printing
benghalensis showed good style.
antimicrobial activity.
Anti microbial activity shown by the dye sample and standard
Micro-organism Taken Activity shown
Control (DMSO) Ficus benghalensis
S. aureus (gram+) +++ +++++
E. coli ( gram -) +++ +++++
Score Card
SCALE / RATING COLOUR CHANGE STAINING
5 EXCELLENT NO STAINING
4 GOOD SLIGH STAINING
3 FAIR NOTICABLE STAINING
2 POOR CONSIDERABLE STAINING
1 VERY POOR EXTENSIVE STAINING
Colour obtained from Ficus benghalensis wood extract with mrodants.

Mordants / combinations Coding Color obtained
Myrobolan + Alum MAFB Bronze
Myrobolan + Copper sulphate MCSFB Carmel custard
pH determination
The pH observed was 5.7 ± 0.1 at room temperature.
Rating for color fastness to washing at 40°C

Mordant Dye CC Son S/c.
Alum FB 3-4 4-5/4-5
Copper sulphate FB 4 4-5/4-5
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Rating for colour fastness to perspiration

Mordant Dye Acidic Alkaline
Alum CC CS CC CS
FB 4 4-5 5 4-5
Copper sulphate FB 4-5 3-4 4-5 3-4
Rating for color fastness to rubbing.

Mordant Dye Dry rubbing
Warp Weft
Alum FB 3-4 3
Copper sulphate FB 4 3
Rating for colorfastness to light (Blue wool rating)

Sr. Mordant Dye Rating
No.
1. Alum FB 5
2. Copper sulphate FB 5
Alum + Fb (Kalamkari).
1. Colour fastness to washing
Change in colour 4
Staining in cotton / silk 4-5/4-5
2. Color fastness to perspiration
Acidic – change in color 4
Staining in cotton / silk 4-5/4
Alkaline – Change in color 4
Staining on cotton / silk 4-5/4
3. Color fastness to rubbing
Dry (Warp / Weft) 3/3
4. Color Fastness to light 4-5
Blue wool rating
Kalamkari painting with dye extracted from ficus benghalensis l.
685
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Copper sulphate + Fb (Kalamkari)

1. Color fastness to washing
Change in color 4
2. Color fastness to perspiration
Acidic – change in color 4
Alkaline – Change in color 4
Staining on cotton / silk 3-4/3-4
3. Color fastness to rubbing
Dry (Warp / Weft) 3/3
4. Color Fastness to light
Blue wool rating 4-5
REFERENCES
Anitha K. and Prasad S.N. (2007) Richa Kalwal (2013), paper ID:
Developing multiple natural dyes “ST”-104, Faculty (Fashion
from flower parts of Gulmohar, Design), Arch. Academy of Design
Current Sciences, 92(12). Pp. (Jaipur) Aluma of NIFT
1681-1682. (Gandhinagar). “Dyeing to sustain,
Ashish Kumar Samanta and encouraging eco conscious
Adwaita Konar (2011) Application Lifestyles and social responsibility.
of Natural dye for colouration of Sujata Saxena and A.S.M. Raja
Jute and Cotton textiles. (2014) Natural Dyes: Sources,
Ashish Kumar Samanta, Priti Chemistry, Application and
Agarwal and Siddharth Datta sustainability issues, Springer
(2007) Dyeing of Jute and cotton Science + Business Media,
fabrics using Jackfruit wood Singapore.
extract: Part-I. Technical report on Natural
Pankaj Oudhia , Society for “Green” Dyes for the textile
Parthenium Management (SOPAM) industry (2003) Technical report
28-A Geeta Nagar, Raipir-492001. No. 57.
P.S .Venkar (2010) . Chemistry of Training Manual on (2011)
Natural Dyes Classification, 111, “Extraction Technology of Natural
93, 135, 171, Vol. 1, pp. 73-80. Dye and aroma therapy and
cultivation value addition of
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medicinal plants”, 2nd – 4th Nov. technical Assistant Director,

2011. Forest Research Institute, W.S.C. Hyderabad.
Dehradun, Uttarakhand. Wikipedia free encyclopedia .
V.H. Kumar (2004) Introduction to
Dyeing with natural colors
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I J R B A T, Vol.

DYEING AND KALAMKARI PAINTING OF SILK FABRIC WITH

M. Kedar, V. Mankar & R. Das

carried out for centuries it Vegetable based natural dyes are

For degumming of silk, For dye extraction, aqueous

Preparation of fabric Mordan‟s, extracted diluted

depth in colour. CONCLUSION

Colour obtained from Ficus benghalensis wood extract with mrodants.

Rating for color fastness to washing at 40°C

Rating for colour fastness to perspiration

Rating for color fastness to rubbing.

Rating for colorfastness to light (Blue wool rating)

Kalamkari painting with dye extracted from ficus benghalensis l.

Copper sulphate + Fb (Kalamkari)

medicinal plants”, 2nd – 4th Nov. technical Assistant Director,

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