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TOP TRAILS ™
Glacier
National Park
Jean Arthur
MUST-DO HIKES FOR EVERYONE
WILDERNESS PRESS
T OP T R A I L S ™
Glacier
National Park
MUST-DO HIKES FOR EVERYONE
Written by
Jean Arthur
Visit our website for a complete listing of our books and for ordering information.
Distributed by Publishers Group West
Cover photo: Grinnell Glacier Trail (Trail 36) leads to three glaciers; mountain goats thrive
on the steep slopes of Glacier National Park.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means
electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the pub-
lisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.
Safety Notice: Although Keen Communications/Wilderness Press and the author have
made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time,
they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to
anyone while using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while in
the wilderness. The fact that a trail is described in this book does not mean that it will be
safe for you. Be aware that trail conditions can change from day to day. Always check local
conditions, know your own limitations, and consult a map and compass.
The Top Trails Series ™
Wilderness Press
When Wilderness Press published Sierra North in 1967, no other trail guide
like it existed for the Sierra backcountry. The first run sold out in less than
two months, and its success heralded the beginning of Wilderness Press.
Since our founding, we have expanded our territories to cover California,
Alaska, Hawaii, the US Southwest, the Pacific Northwest, New England,
Canada, and the Southeast.
Wilderness Press continues to publish comprehensive, accurate, and
readable outdoor books. Hikers, backpackers, kayakers, skiers, snowshoers,
climbers, cyclists, and trail runners rely on Wilderness Press for accurate
outdoor adventure information.
Top Trails
In its Top Trails guides, Wilderness Press has paid special attention to orga-
nization so that you can find the perfect hike each and every time. Whether
you’re looking for a steep trail to test yourself or a gentle walk in the park, a
romantic waterfall or a lakeside view, Top Trails will lead you there.
Each Top Trails guide contains routes for everyone. The trails selected
provide a sampling of the very best that the region has to offer. These are
the must-do hikes with every feature of the area represented.
Every book in the Top Trails series offers:
• The Wilderness Press commitment to accuracy and reliability
• Ratings and rankings for each trail
• Distances and approximate times
• Easy-to-follow trail notes
• Map and permit information
iii
iv
Glacier National Park
Co
nti
nen
t al D i vi d e 6
5
WATERTON
LAKES
NATIONAL
PARK
501
Waterton Lakes National Park, Canada
2
North For
k
39, 40
Upper
Flat
Waterton
he
Lake
ad
CANADA
Ri
ve
r
UNITED STATES
West Side Trails: Lake McDonald Area and The North Fork 17
O ut s id
89
eN
or t
14 Kintla
hF
Lake
o
rk
Ro
ad GLACIER
Bowman Many Glacier Area 464
Lake Quartz Road
Lake lacier
11, 12, 15 ny G
Ma
35, 36 34 Lake
37, 38 Sherburne
C o n ti n e n t
Polebridge
al D
Logging
ivi
18
d
19, 20, 21
13 24, 25 89
-Su
In 16, 17
- The
s id 1, 2
o
eN
orth 22, 23 Saint Mary
g-T
Fo Lake
rk
o in
R
35, 36 34 Lake
37, 38 Sherburne
inenta
Polebridge
lD
Logging
ivi
18
d
Lake e Logan Pass and Saint Mary Area
NATIONAL 26
ad
Ro
n
19, 20, 21
13 24, 25 89
-Su
In 16, 17
- The
s id 1, 2
o
eN
orth 22, 23 Saint Mary
g-T
Fo Lake
rk
o in
G
Ro
ad
10 Lake
McDonald 3, 4
5, 6, 7
N
9
ort
h Fo
rk F
PARK 89
lathead River
27, 28
29, 30, 31 49
Two
2 Medicine
Whitefish Lake
Lake
C
on
ti n
Whitefish en
M
ta l
93 D ivi d e
id
dl
Columbia FLATHEAD eF
Falls or
k
40 33
Fla
thead
2
Ri
v er
NATIONAL 32
Flathead River
93
Hungry Horse
Reservoir FOREST
0 5 10 15 miles
v
T RA IL F EATURES TABLE
+
45
s
23
ile
cc ch e
o
ng
M
sh
-1
s ir
g
ki
es a
in
in
W ow
ty
ac
Sk ly
ik
ul
s
th
nd
n
kp
A eel
H
se
Fr d-
ic
ge
ng
i/S
pe
ie
ay
ac
l
iff
or
h
hi
TRAIL NUMBER AND NAME
Pa
Le
Ty
D
C
1. West Side Trails: Lake McDonald Area and the North Fork
Historic Interest
W
at
er
fa
ll
G
la
TERRAIN
ci
er
Fl
or
a
B
ird
s
W
ild
T R A IL FEATURES TABLE
lif
e
W
il
Ec dfir
ol e
og
FLORA & FAUNA
y
Se
cl
ud
ed
Sw
im
m
in
g
Fi
sh
in
g
Vi
ew
s
Ph
o
O to
OTHER
pp
or
G tu
eo ni
In lo ty
te gi
re c
H s
is t
In tor
te ic
vii
T RA IL F EATURES TABLE
+
45
s
23
ile
cc ch e
o
ng
M
sh
-1
s ir
g
ki
es a
in
in
W ow
ty
ac
Sk ly
ik
ul
s
th
nd
n
kp
A eel
H
se
Fr d-
ic
ge
ng
i/S
pe
ie
ay
ac
l
iff
or
h
hi
TRAIL NUMBER AND NAME
Pa
Le
Ty
D
C
2. Logan Pass and Saint Mary Area (cont’d)
W
at
er
fa
ll
G
la
TERRAIN
ci
er
Fl
or
a
B
ird
s
W
ild
T R A IL FEATURES TABLE
lif
e
W
il
Ec dfir
ol e
og
FLORA & FAUNA
y
Se
cl
ud
ed
Sw
im
m
in
g
Fi
sh
in
g
Vi
ew
s
Ph
o
O to
OTHER
pp
or
G tu
eo ni
In lo ty
te gi
re c
st
H
is
t
In or
te ic
re
ix
Contents
On the Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
CHAPTER 1
xi
CHAPTER 2
CHAPTER 3
Two Medicine and
South Boundary Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179
27 Running Eagle Falls Nature Trail (aka Trick Falls) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189
28 Upper Two Medicine Lake Trail and Twin Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193
29 Dawson Pass and Pitamakan Pass Trail (Oldman Lake) . . . . . . . . . 197
30 Cobalt Lake via Two Medicine Pass Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203
31 Mount Henry Trail to Scenic Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
32 Autumn Creek Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213
33 Firebrand Pass Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
CHAPTER 4
Many Glacier Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225
34 Apikuni Falls Trail (aka Appekunny Falls Trail) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235
35 Swiftcurrent Lake Nature Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239
36 Grinnell Glacier Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
37 Iceberg Lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
38 Ptarmigan Tunnel Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 290
Map Legend
Featured trail Bench Overlook
Water body
River/stream
Intermittent
stream
Contents xiii
Using Top Trails ™
The Region
At the front of this book is the Glacier National Park Area Map (pages
iv–v), displaying the entire area covered by this guide and providing a
geographic overview. The map is clearly marked to show which area each
chapter covers.
The following Glacier National Park Trails Table (pages vi–ix) lists every
trail covered in the guide, along with important attributes of each trip.
89
Two Medicine and South Boundary Area
501
15 miles
15 miles
49
49
15 kilometers
15 kilometers
33
33
464
464
Medicine
Medicine
2
2
29, 30, 31
32 31
2
10
10
Lake
27, 28
27, 28
Two
Two
29, 30,
32
D ivi d e
D ivi d e
10
10
89
89
5
UNITED STATES
UNITED STATES
89
89
5
ta l
ta l
26
26
CANADA
CANADA
en
en
0
ti n
ti n
on
on
C C
RMary
Saint Mary
e Logan Pass and Saint Mary Area
pages vi–ix
Road
oad
5
24, 25
24, 25
Sherburne
Sherburne
Saint
lacier
lacier
ny GLake
Lake
17
17
Lake
Lake
ny G
Ma
Ma
Many Glacier Area
Ri v er Ri v er
thead thead
19, 20, 21
P A R K19, 20, 21
F O Rd E S T
FOREST
Fla Fla
35, 36 34
35, 36 34
22, 23
22, 23
rk
37, 38
37, 38
or
Fo
eF
le
PARK
id id
dl
16, 17
M M
Many
NATIONAL
NATIONAL
6
d d
ivi ivi
al D al D
ad
ad
C o nti n e n t C o nti n e n t
G LNAACTI IEORN A L
1, 2
NATIONAL
1, 2
Waterton Lakes National Park, Canada
Ro
Ro
18
18
n n
-Su -Su
Waterton
Waterton
- The - The
6
2
FLATHEAD
FLATHEAD
o o
g-T g-T
5, 6, 7
5, 6, 7
Upper
Upper
o in o in
3, 4
3, 4
Lake
Lake
Hungry Horse
Reservoir
Hungry Horse
Reservoir
WATERTON
WATERTON
NATIONAL
NATIONAL
GLACIER
39, 40
39, 40
Lake
McDonald
Lake
McDonald
L A Fork
West Side Trails: Lake McDonald Area and The North Fork
LAKES
KES
PARK
PARK
Waterton
Waterton
ad ad
Glacier National Park Trails
8
Ro Ro
9
9
k
rk
Fo
45
Lake orth F
s
23
ile
oe
orth
ng
Logging
Lake
Logging
Lake
In lo ty
M
sh
-1
eo ni
ki
es ai
g
in
in
eN
eN
rk F rk F
w
ty
ed
in
re c
ll
ac
cc ch
tu
y
Quartz
Lake
Quartz
Sk ly
te gi
st
ik
ol e
fa
In toric
st
no
e
ul
og
g
m
th
er
Fo Fo
ud
fir
or
nd
kp
lif
A el
10
10
in
O o
se
er
Fr ld-
re
ic
im
ge
s
ng
i/S
ci
a
s id
s id
ke
ot
ew
ild
pp
he
ild
pe
cl
sh
th th
ird
ay
ie
ac
at
or
te
iff
or
la
hi
Sw
Pa
Ph
N or N or
Le
La
Se
Ty
W
W
Vi
Fl
D
Fi
G
G
D
H
In
In
H
C
1. West Side Trails: Lake McDonald Area and the North Fork
Columbia
mbia
Columbia
11, 12, 15
11, 12, 15
Columbi
Glacier National Park
Falls
alls
Falls
13
13
Bowman
Lake
Cedars 1 0.95
F
t al D i vi d e
t al D i vi d e
2
Whitefish
Whitefish
14 Kintla
40
40
nen
nen
Polebridge
Polebridge
Lake
Lake
Whitefish
Whitefish
nti
nti
93
Kalispell
Kalispell
Lake
Lake
Co
Co
ad
Ro
Ro
r r
ve ve 7 Going-to-the-Sun (Winter Trail)
Ri Ri
rk
rk
o o 63 1–3 16.8
hF hF
93
93
d or t d or t
t hea eN t hea eN
k Fla O ut s id k Fla O ut s id 8 Apgar Lookout Trail 69 3 7.2
North For North For
9 Huckleberry Mountain Lookout Trail 73 3 12.0
Overview Map
USES & ACCESS TYPE TERRAIN FLORA & FAUNA OTHER
Day Hiking Loop Lake Flora Secluded
pages iv–v
Child-Friendly Point-to-point Wildfire Ecology Views
Historic Interest
xiv
Here you’ll find a concise description, basic information, and highlighted
features, all indispensable when planning an outing. A quick reading of the
Regional Map and the Master Trail Table will provide an overview of the
entire region covered by the book.
The Areas
The region covered by this book is divided into five areas, with each chapter
corresponding to one area. Each area introduction contains information to
help you choose and enjoy a great trail every time out. To find the perfect
trip, use the table of contents or the regional map to identify your area of
interest, and then turn to the area chapter to find the following:
Area Overview
AREA OVER VIEW
G
lacier National Park’s western half is dominated by lush forests, emer-
ald and turquoise lakes, and the Pacific Maritime climate impacting
an ecosystem that hangs under the Continental Divide’s western
shoulder. It’s here that temperate, wet Pacific Northwest meteorological
conditions sustain the northern alpine forests, wetlands, and riparian areas.
The West Glacier park entrance welcomes visitors year-round, although the
community of West Glacier seems to hibernate much of the winter—a few
eateries and lodging facilities remain open. Apgar Campground remains
open year-round but has limited services in winter. In Apgar, visitors will
also find the Apgar Ranger Station and Apgar Backcountry Office, as well
as restaurants, gift shops, a motel, cabins, boat rentals, and scenery beyond
compare. Lake McDonald dominates the view to the north, hugged by for-
ested slopes and snowcapped peaks. At the horizon, the Continental Divide
lines the background like a picket fence,SUM
TRAIL andMARIES
indeed, it’s called the Garden
Wall. Lake McDonald Lodge perches on the southeast shore near Sprague
Trail Summaries
Day hiking,
backpacking, horses A challenging, 3,500-foot climb offers viewpoints TRAIL 7
Going-to-the-Sun (Winter Trail) . . . . . . 63
12.4 miles at every other switchback for the first 1.5 miles.
A summer road becomes a wonderful wintry intro- Skiing/snowshoeing,
Out-and-back Next up is a tromp under the Douglas Fir montane,
duction to Glacier’s brumal days. Cross-country youth-friendly
Difficulty 1 2 3 4 5 until, at last, the trees open up to reveal waterfalls,
skiers and snowshoers are treated to the partially 16.8 miles
cascading streams, mountain goats, and the stun-
frozen yet very much awake and frothy Sacred Out-and-back
ning 100-year-old Sperry Chalet, where those with
Dancing Cascade of McDonald Creek along the Difficulty 1 2 3 4 5
reservations find elegant backcountry dining and
closed road, which is often frequented by deer and (depending on iciness
rustic lodging, 6.2 miles from civilization.
snowshoe hare. of trail)
The Trails
The basic building block of the Top Trails guide is the trail entry. Each one
is arranged to make finding and following the trail as simple as possible,
with all pertinent information presented in this easy-to-follow format:
TRAIL 1
Trail of the Cedars
r a il
eT
TR A IL U S E
red cedars, some of which are 80 feet tall and 15
he
nc
friendly, wheelchair
the easternmost groves of water-loving western red
GLACIER
accessible
cedars—not a true cedar but an evergreen cypress
Trail
L E N G TH
and the only Thuja species native to western North 0.95 mile,
rail
rs
America. Its flat and lacy foliage is fragrant when
eT
da 30–45 minutes
ak
C
e
e
crushed. Trail of the Cedars is a must-do hike for
eL
th
i l of V E RTIC A L F E E T
nch
Tra
all visitors and a fine choice for the first hike of a +32'/-32'
ala
Av
Map
park visit. It exemplifies why Glacier is unique; the D IF F IC U LTY
s
ar
Campground
ek
C
he
Avalanche
ft
ferent ecosystems. The microclimate here is more
re
lo TR A IL TY P E
ai
eC
Tr
nch
Trail Text
Divide, begin the vast semiarid prairies of Montana. Pavement and board-
walk
S TA RT & E N D
Best Time N48º 40.822'
W113º 49.145'
Spring, summer, and fall, this trail is popular
Goin
P
g-to
-the
-Sun
because of its gentle terrain and accessibility from
Roa F E ATU R E S
d Going-to-the-Sun Road. During hot summer days, Flora
the trail remains cool under the huge western red Secluded
cedars, which act as an umbrella for hikers during Birds
150 meters
FA C IL ITIE S
ski. The Trail of the Cedars tends to be icy in winter,
100
C
Restroom, Water
nald
so caution is necessary.
Campground
McDo
50
Ranger residence
Finding the Trail Shuttle
0
insight intoarea
Picnic flora and fauna. Mostly, however, you’ll
Campground, and park From in theLake McDonald
day-use parkingLodge, drive north onsee fellow
Phone hikers, strollers, walkers, and wheelchairs.
N
` Trail
Thomas Jefferson
signed the Declaration Trail Description MILESTONES
of Independence.
The trail can be hiked in either direction; this descrip- 0.0 Start
Startfrom
fromGoing-to-the-Sun
Going-to-the-SunRoad
Road at Avalanche Creek and
Milestones
1
1 0.0
tion details a counterclockwise loop beginning on
atAvalanche
Avalancheparking area.
Creek and Avalanche
the south side of Avalanche Creek and walking east,
2 0.03 parking
Trail ofarea.
the Cedars Trailhead
where you can glimpse frothy Avalanche Creek with
3
2 0.28 Trail
0.03 Where there’s
of the Cedarsa break in the trees, look left and up the cliffs of
Trailhead
its moss-covered rocks and fishing holes and will
3
Mountthere’s
0.28 Where Cannon and you
a break may
in the see look
trees, white mountain goats. You’ll
encounter a campground, an amphitheater, and a
Icons
Camping see Avalanche Creek and getCannon
a full view of the giant western
restroom on the south side of the trail. left and up the cliffs of Mount
redyou
and cedars
mayacross the mountain
see white creek.
Cedars have a fire-resistant quality, thanks to
4 0.46 goats.
Just past
You’llthe
seeAvalanche
AvalancheLake CreekTrailhead
and is the Avalanche Creek
thick bark and moist soils near streams or another
footbridge,
get a full viewwhich
of theprovides an excellent
giant western red opportunity for photos
body of water. Some trees in this grove are estimated
of theacross
cedars gorge. the creek.
to be nearly 500 years old. Although lightning has
Flora 5
4 0.6 Just
0.46 Benches
past theprovide time out
Avalanche Laketo consider the significance of this
started fires nearby, these hardy cedars managed
forest—you
Trailhead can
is the see the massive
Avalanche Creek root system of a windfall
to remain protected. Interpretive signs offer some
cedar. Try which
footbridge, counting the rings
provides on another downed cedar that
an excellent
has been sawn
opportunity apart of
for photos forthe
trailgorge.
clearing.
MILES
6
5 0.9 Benches
0.6 Cross bridge ontime
provide Going-to-the-Sun
out to considerRoad.
0 2 4 6 8 7 0.95 the significance
Reach Avalancheof this forest—you
parking area.
3,550
3,500
FEET
Elevation
3,450
Salish and Kootenai tribes visited this area as a sacred place,
3,400 calling Lake McDonald the lake of “sacred dancing waters.”
NOTES
Profile
clothing from tree bark and other fibers.
3,300
Trail of the Cedars Elevation Profile
sustain brain injuries during the impact. The bighorn sheep is the provincial
mammal of Alberta.
Other wildlife that visitors will likely encounter include coyotes, river
otters, mink, marten, and weasels. Visitors often hear pikas and marmots,
chipmunks, and the golden-mantled ground squirrel. Evenings, you may
see the little brown bat, long-legged bat, big brown bat, and silver-haired
bat. A few rare creatures include the northern bog lemming, native to
coniferous forests; the Richardson ground squirrel and the thirteen-lined
ground squirrel, both grasslands residents; porcupines; jackrabbits; cot-
tontail rabbits; red foxes; bobcats; long-eared bats; hoary bats; and the
fisher. The parks’ ranger-led evening programs sometimes detail the vari-
ous mammals. Some of the lodges, especially Lake McDonald Lodge, have
mounted wildlife on display. A mammal checklist is available online and
at park entrance stations.
Numerous birds flock to Glacier and Waterton, thanks to the terrestrial,
aquatic, and riparian habitats. Golden eagles cruise the Crown of the Conti-
nent each spring and fall, using the thermals to glide between nesting areas
in Canada and Alaska and winter homes in the southern United States and
Mexico. Bald eagles can be found nearly year-round in the parks. Occasion-
ally, portions of some lakes are closed to visitors during the eagle-nesting
Una columella che sta avanti una nicchia con un frontispizio segna il
sepolcro di Salvio, fanciullo di anni 6, come lo fa sapere l’iscrizione:
SALVIVS PVER
VIX. ANNIS VI.
La sigla che segue al nome di Arrius, che io d’un tratto supplii con un
I, ma che nel marmo ben non si comprende, fu interpretata
diversamente. La più parte ritennero significare Arrii, seguendo
l’ermeneutica adottata da Bréton nel leggere l’iscrizione di Cejo; ma
Bréton è poi curioso che, abbandonandola in questa iscrizione,
abbia voluto leggere nella sigla una J, che interpretò per Juliæ. La
ragione sola che costei potesse essere la Julia Felix, una de’ più
ricchi proprietarj di Pompei, non pare nè seria, nè da accettarsi.
Piuttosto dovrebbesi essere meglio inclinati a ritenerlo liberto di
Giulia la figliuola di Augusto, che avanti la morte del padre
chiamavasi Livia, e così sarebbe stato conservo di questa imperiale
matrona colle due Tichi, di cui menzionammo più sopra le tombe.
Greche di nome codeste due liberte, parimenti greco sarebbe il
nome di Diomede: forse quindi tutti compatrioti.
Il monumento pompeggia sull’altezza d’un muro con un terrapieno
che serve di base a questa tomba di famiglia; esso si costituisce di
un frontispizio con pilastrini d’ordine corintio ai lati ed è in cattivo
stato ed ha nulla di rimarchevole fuor che alcuni fasci nella facciata,
e due teste di marmo l’una di uomo, l’altra di donna, appena
abozzate, che gli antichi avevano costume di collocar nei sepolcri
per distinguerli.
Dietro la testa d’uomo, era questa iscrizione:
M. ARRIO
PRIMOGENI
Già più pareti di camere delle loro dipinture non hanno che qualche
traccia appena: altre l’hanno perduta affatto; già segni ed emblemi
caratteristici scomparvero, caddero graffiti, scomparvero iscrizioni,
rovinarono muri, da che la distruzione dei tetti fosse già opera del
cataclisma vesuviano, e chi visita con interesse Pompei se ne
preoccupa e tanto più in quanto la parte primamente scoperta si
giudichi, come provai, la più interessante.
Che avrebbesi dunque a fare?
V’ha chi crede che por mano a riparazioni e ristauri sia opera
profana poco meno di empia e si ha forse ragione: epperò per que’
tratti almeno, ne’ quali la rovina si determina così da togliere ogni
ulteriore interesse per l’archeologo e pel curioso osservatore, non
potrebbe mo’ cavarsene partito, purchè ceduti, dietro apposite
discipline e dicevoli corrispettivi, a ricchi privati, si imponesse ai
cessionari di ricostruire sulla originaria architettura pompejana?
Delle migliaja di ricchi sfondolati che visitano ogni anno gli scavi, chi
può dire non si trovi alcuno che ami avere in questo ridentissimo ed
ubertoso pendio che il Vesuvio sogguarda, al par di Cicerone, il suo
vaghissimo Pompejanum?
Come Cuvier ha dalle ossa fossili rinvenute ricostruito perfino
animali preistorici e da più secoli scomparsi dalla terra, più
facilmente potrebbesi dalla pianta degli edifici rifare gli alzati e
l’architetto governativo e la commissione che si dovrebbe creare
fornirebbero le architetture e così mano mano sull’antico verrebbesi
riedificando il novello Pompei, perenne e non indegno scopo di
curiosità e di studio a nazionali e forestieri.
È un’idea codesta siccome un’altra.
Una ne emise assai prima l’illustre autore dei Martyrs e del Génie du
Christianisme nel suo Voyage en Italie nel brevissimo cenno che vi
dettò su d’Ercolano, di Portici e di Pompei, e parmi che giovi di
riferire, perocchè al medesimo fine essa miri della mia proposta. «En
parcourant cette cité des morts — scrive il visconte di
Chateaubriand, une idée me poursuivoit. A mesure que l’on
déchausse quelque édifice à Pompeïa, on enlève ce que donne la
fouille, ustensiles de ménage, instruments de divers métiers,
meubles, statues, manuscrits, etc., et l’on entasse le tout au Musée
Portici. Il y auroit selon moi quelque chose de mieux à faire: ce seroit
de laisser les choses dans l’endroit où on les trouve et comme on les
trouve, de remettre des toits, des plafonds, des planchers et des
fenêtres, pour empêcher la dégradation des peintures et des murs;
de relever l’ancienne enceinte de la ville; d’en clore les portes, afin
d’y établir une garde de soldats avec quelques savants versés dans
les arts. Ne seroit-ce pas là le plus merveilleux Musée de la terre,
une ville romaine conservée toute entière, comme si ses habitants
venoient d’en sortir un quart d’heure auparavant?
«On apprendroit mieux l’histoire domestique du peuple romain, l’état
de la civilisation romaine dans quelques promenades à Pompeïa
restaurée, que par la lecture de tous les ouvrages de l’antiquité.
L’Europe entière accourroit: les frais qu’exigeroit la mise en œuvre
de ce plan seroient amplement compensés par l’affluence des
étrangers à Naples. D’ailleurs rien n’obligeroit d’exécuter ce travail à
la fois, on continueroit lentement, mais régulièrement les fouilles; il
ne foudroit qu’un peu de brique, d’ardoise, de charpente et de
menuiserie pour les employer en proportion da déblai. Un architecte
habile suivroit, quant aux restaurations, le style local dont il trouveroit
des modèles dans les paysages peints sur les murs mêmes des
maisons de Pompeïa.»
Come si può accorgere il lettore, di poco la mia idea si discosta da
codesta di Chateaubriand, la quale per altro, limitandosi ad una
semplice opera di restauro, oltre che è combattuta fieramente dagli
archeologi, è forse di poco pratica attivazione, avuto riguardo alla
condizione delle muraglie in generale che mal sopporterebbero la
sovrapposizione di quell’altra parte di muro che valesse a
completarla, senza dire che in più luoghi il salnitro e altre ragioni di
degradazione vieterebbero il ritorno delle dipinture.
Qualunque sia il pensiero tendente alla conservazione di Pompei, di
questa così interessante città che si va ogni dì più evocando dal suo
sepolcro in cui giacque presso a due mila anni, mette conto esser
preso in considerazione ed esame, principalmente da chi è preposto
alla pubblica cosa. Se lo stato trova di sua convenienza e decoro di
consacrare alla conservazione de’ monumenti e de’ cimelii antichi
disseminati per tutta Italia, istituti e somme ragguardevoli, per
ragione maggiore volger deve le sue cure alla conservazion di
questa antica città, perocchè ben dicesse l’inglese Taylor, scrivendo
a Carlo Nodier intorno appunto ad essa e ad Ercolano:
«Roma non è che un vasto museo; Pompei è un’antichità vivente.»
Bacone, parlando di antichità, di storie sfigurate e di storici
frammenti sfuggiti per avventura alla distruzione del tempo, li
paragona alle tavole che galleggiano dopo il naufragio; ebbene le
Rovine di Pompei sono preziose reliquie di un naufragio che
meritano essere ad ogni costo salvate, che vogliono ad ogni modo
essere strappate al continuo e latente processo di loro completa
distruzione e allora soltanto potremo sclamare con Schiller:
L’are
Sorgono ancor. Venite e il sacro foco
Raccendete agli dei, chè troppo lunghi
Secoli di votiva ostia l’han privi [317].
FINE.
APPENDICE PRIMA
I busti di Bruto e di Pompeo [318].