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Ijaret 12 12 004
Ijaret 12 12 004
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Article in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF ADVANCED RESEARCH IN ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY · December 2021
DOI: 10.34218/IJARET.12.12.2021.004
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ABSTRACT
Jeans are popular for being more comfortable, long-lasting and require less
washing. Raw denim is difficult to wear. Different types of wash make it wearable,
comfortable and give a better feel with a fashionable look. The garments are washed by
various processes and include stringent methods to prevent harmful production
processes. Most of the non-toxic processes have a significant effect on the cost of the
finished product. Consumer awareness of the harmful production processes and the
price effects of their alternatives are still very low. The focus of this study is to calculate
the cost-effectiveness of denim washing on the finished product. Enzyme wash, enzyme
bleach wash, rubber ball wash, acid wash and stonewash were applied on jeans to
evaluate washing cost effects. The chemical and mechanical result of these five wash`s
experiments was assessed, the cost and final product price were calculated under
industrial conditions for each wash. The cost of stonewash jeans is noticeably higher
than the other alternatives. Enzyme bleach wash is the lowest-cost alternatives. Enzyme
bleach effect is endorsed as best for producer and end-user.
Key words: Apparel, Costing, Denim washing, Jeans, Stone Wash.
Cite this Article: A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul
Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain, Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury,
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing, International Journal of Advanced Research in
Engineering and Technology (IJARET). 12(12), 2021, pp. 33-44.
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Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing
1. INTRODUCTION
The denim industry is one of the biggest sellers in the global apparel market because of its
fashion popularity. Denim was traditionally coloured blue with indigo to make jeans. It is so
popular because jeans had an appeal that transcended culture, age and place. Variation of
washing techniques is now developing new vogues and new markets for denim. World
consumption of denim clothing today is equivalent to about 4,500 million meters per year. The
worldwide requirement for denim is growing 5% and the supply is growing at 8% per year [1].
By 2020, the global denim industry was worth USD 64.1 billion, up from USD 56.2 billion in
2014. Denim is environmentally friendly [2] because it is prepared with cotton and is hygro-
scopic in nature [3-4]. Coarse count yarns are used to make the denim a heavy fabric [5].
Fashion trends change for denim with different kinds of washing methods. Garment washing is
a focal point for textile engineers and chemical engineers to use their professional skills in
today’s Ready-Made Garment business. Wearable denim clothing requires spinning, dyeing,
weaving, and the most important is the washing process. There are mainly two types of wash
process- wet process and dry process. In the production of jeans, these two types of washing
are important. In wet processing, enzyme wash, bleach wash, acid wash, stone wash, towel
bleach wash and acid enzyme wash are fashionable for jeans. Dry processes include
sandblasting, whispering, PP spray, tagging, destroying, etc. After dyeing the fabrics, the
garments are washed changing their appearance.
With the use of denim in the garment export market, clothing must be of high-quality offer
value for money visual appeal. Prior studies show that stone wash is saving money and it has a
better environmental impact on companies [6-7]. Modern functions using various types of
garment processing brings greater financial profits [8]. Between the 18th century and 19th-
century, different washing methods were invented which are still used worldwide. Producers
now develop these methods to make the process easier and cheaper. The process must give the
garment a good look and not be harmful. Yet, as harm is reduced, the cost tends to rise. Few
consumers understand this connection between making the garment production harmless and
its increased price on the shelf. Already many good practices have been initiated, such as
organic cotton denim, lyocell denim and better cotton initiative denim. However, without
washing, all of these denim jeans look the same. The consumer’s concept of the quality of the
product comes from how it looks, which is created in the washing process [9].
Therefore, the objective of this study is to calculate the cost difference among different
processes of denim washing of jeans. To make this calculation for finished jeans, enzyme,
enzyme bleach, rubber ball, acid wash and stonewash tests were applied.
2. LITERATURE REVIEW
Previous studies have almost exclusively focused on the fact that worldwide denim garments
are worn 3.5 days per week [10] and this average is also increasing annually. Chinese customers
spent 275 USD per year on apparel and it increased 131% [11]. Prior research confirmed the
highest usage is in Germany; where jeans are worn 5.2 times per week, 70% of consumers
globally said that they appreciated and enjoyed wearing jeans [10]. They liked that jeans can be
worn in any season [12] due to thermo-physiological comfort [13]. Therefore, producers
concentrated on differentiating the appearance of their garments through wash processes to cash
on this large and growing world market. In their appeal, jeans have transcended gender, age
group and profession [14]. Research has focused on understanding the consumer’s demand:
their perception of jeans, their concept of the value of jeans, how they choose among jeans, and
the role of branding of jeans [15-20]. Denim fast fashion was a reaction to the proliferation of
different denim products. A business model based on low-priced, trend-led products requires
constant innovation to differentiate the product [21]. As a result, since fast fashion began, the
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A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain,
Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury
overall annual increase in demand for jeans is estimated to be two percent, but brands now
produce almost twice the number of clothing collections compared to those in 2000 [22- 24].
The slow increase in consumption and a large increase in the production of fashion products
have caused the market price of clothing to be too low to be profitable. So now, manufacturers
are competing on low-cost attributes of the jeans, like brand and wash effects. The wash colour
and its product are one of the most frequent visual factors influencing consumers to buy,
followed by style, stitch and fabric [19, 25].
Consumers like denim jeans. Price is important but they are searching for a good look and
comfort [26]. Fit, comfort, style, workmanship, and colour are the key factors in the consumer’s
decision-making on which jeans to buy [26]. Different wash outcome attributes of jeans thus
influence the buying behaviour of consumers [27, 28].
Five medium-size jeans were developed with the following measurements and as presented
Parts name Calculation Consumption
1 (39−1.5+1+1)×( 9.5+1)×4
(𝐹𝑢𝑙𝑙 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ − 𝑤𝑎𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑛𝑑 ℎ𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 + 𝐻𝑒𝑚 + 𝑆𝐴) × ( 𝑡ℎ𝑖𝑔ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 4 =
Leg Panel 2 56×36 Here, Shrinkage
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 0.823 11%
1 (1.5×2+1)×( 20.53×2+1)×1
(𝑊𝑎𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑛𝑑 ℎ𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 × 2 + 𝑆𝐴) × ( 𝑤𝑎𝑖𝑠𝑡 × 2 + 𝑆𝐴) × 1 Body Fabric
Waist Band 2 56×36
consumption=
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 = 0.084
(0.823+
Front (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 2 (9+1)×( 6.5+1)×2 0.084+0.074+0.0
Pocket = 0.074
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 56×36 6+0.008) +
Facing
Shrinkage%
(𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 2 (7.5+1)×( 6+1)×2
Back Pocket = 0.06 = 1.049 yds
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 56×36
+11%
(𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 1 (3+1)×( 3+1)×1
Coin Pocket = 0.008 =1.164 yds
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 56×36
Pocketing fabric
Pocket bag (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑔 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑔 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) ×(15+1)×(
2 6.5+1)×2
= 0.121 yds
= 0.121
(Front) 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 55×36
in Table 1. The measurement unit used the inch. The measurements used were: Full length-
39 inch, outseam-39 inch, ½ thigh-9.5 inch, waistband height-1.5 inch, ½ waist-20.53 inch,
front pocket length- 9 inch, front pocket width- 6.5 inch, front pocket bag length-15 inch, front
pocket bag width-6.5 inch, back pocket length- 7.5 inch, back pocket width- 6 inch, coin pocket
length- 3 inch, coin pocket width- 3 inch, shell fabric width- 57 inch, pocketing fabric width-
56 inch, shrinkage- 11%, hem-1 inch, all allowances 0.5 inch.
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Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing
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Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing
Water was added to the neutral wash and the machine was started. After that, hypo sulfide
was added and steam was used to raise the temperature to 45°C. Process time was 10 minutes
after that the liquor was dropped. In this stage, water was added again. The machine was started
after that 0.01% direct black V-200 and 0.02% direct brown GTL, with salt, were added. Steam
was used to raise the temperature to 70°C. Process time was 20 minutes. At the final stage of
tinting, all shade was checked. After that, the liquor was dropped. In the last stage, the sample
(Figure: 2) was then taken out, using hydro extraction, and then sent to a dryer.
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rotate the garment at normal temperature. In the last stage of acid wash, garments (Figure: 4)
were then taken out, using hydro extraction and then sent to the dryer.
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Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing
Water was added to the neutral wash and the machine was started. After that, acetic acid
was added and steam was used to raise the temperature to 45°C. Process time was 10 minutes.
After hydro extraction, the sample was sent to the dryer. The softening agent was added as the
garment rotated at normal temperature. Then, at the last stage, the garments were taken out,
using hydro extraction and then sent to a dryer. Figure 5 shows the stonewash effects on the
jeans front and back view.
Table 3 Washing cost of enzyme, enzyme bleach, rubber ball, acid wash and stonewash
Washing Cost
Sample-1: Sample-2: Sample-3: Sample-4: Sample-5:
Enzyme Wash Enzyme Bleach Rubber Ball Wash Acid Wash Stone Wash
Enzyme $1.20 Enzyme $1.30 Rubber Ball
$1.50 Acid Wash $1.50 Stone Wash $1.80 Pc
Wash Bleach Wash
PP spray $0.10 PP spray $0.10 Tagging $0.10 PP spray $0.10 Tagging $0.20 Pc
Tagging $0.10 Tagging $0.10 Whiskering $0.20 Tagging $0.10 Whiskering $0.20 Pc
Whiskering $0.20 Whiskering $0.20 Grinding $0.20 Whiskering $0.20 Grinding $0.10 Pc
Destroy $0.30 Grinding $0.08 - - - - Destroy $0.10 Pc
Total ∑ $ 1.90 Total ∑ $1.78 Total ∑ $2.00 Total ∑ $1.90 Total ∑ $2.40 pc
Raw Jeans Cost $ 6.08 Pc
Total Price of Total Price of Total Price of
Total Price of 1 Total Price of 1
1 piece $ 7.98 1 piece $ 7.86 $ 8.08 $ 7.98 1 piece $ 8.48 Pc
piece garment piece garment
garment garment garment
At first, the shell fabric and the pocketing fabric cost was calculated. The required shell
fabric was 1.164 yards per garment; the cost was $3.36, as the price per yard of shell fabric was
$2.75. The pocketing fabric cost was $0.13 per garment. Trims and accessories cost $2.59,
including sewing thread, labels, buttons, zippers, rivets, and, most important, CM cost. Before
washing, the raw denim manufacturing cost of jeans was $6.08 FOB. Where the fabric cost was
$3.49, and trims & accessories cost was $2.59, as presented in Table 2.
Table 3 shows that enzyme wash increases the cost to $7.98, as enzyme wash and dry
process cost was $1.90. In the case of enzyme bleach, the total denim manufacturing cost was
$7.86, and the washing cost was $1.78. Rubber ball wash increased the cost to $8.08, including
washing cost $2.00. Acid wash, including pp spray, tagging, and whiskering, incurred $1.90
and the total denim production cost was $7.98. Among the five washing samples highlighted in
this paper, the stonewash cost is considerably higher than the others, its total cost being $8.48,
as wash cost was $2.40.
Figure 6 shows the washing cost effect on the total cost. These findings are consistent with
research results showing that enzyme wash consumed 22%; enzyme bleach wash 23%, rubber
ball wash 25%, acid wash 24% and stonewash consumed 28% of its total cost. This result
highlights that washing cost has a major effect on the total cost of jeans.
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A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain,
Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury
Series1, Series1,
Enzyme Enzyme
Wash, 1.7, Bleach,
22% 1.78, 23%
Series1, Total
Series1, Total fabric Price,
Series1, fabric Price, 3.49, 44%
Series1,
Total 3.49, 45% Total
Trims & Trims &
Accessorie Accessorie
s Cost with s Cost with
CM CM charge,
charge, 2.59, 33%
2.59, 33%
Figure 6 (b)
Figure 6 (a)
Series1,
Series1, Acid
Rubber Ball Wash, 1.9,
wash, 2, 24%
25% Series1, Total Series1, Total
fabric Price, 3.49, fabric Price,
43% 3.49, 44%
Series1, Total
Series1, Total Trims &
Trims & Accessories
Accessories Cost Cost with CM
with CM charge, charge, 2.59,
2.59, 32% 32%
Series1, Stone
Wash, 2.4, 28%
Series1, Total
fabric Price, 3.49,
41%
Figure: 6 (e)
Figure 6 Enzyme (a), enzyme bleach (b), rubber ball (c), acid (d) and stone (e) washing cost
percentage on total costing
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Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing
Enzyme Wash
2
Enzyme Bleach
Acid Wash
1
Stone Wash
0.5
0
Enzyme Enzyme Rubber Ball Acid Wash Stone Wash
Wash Bleach Wash
5. CONCLUSION
Washing effects give jeans their pleasing aesthetics, so they are key tools in creating new
fashion. The cost of denim washing varies due to different reasons such as raw material
availability, the number of orders, and buyers’ demand. The main finding of this study is that
the total cost of jeans depends on the washing process used. The findings show the actual
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costing sheet that describes washing cost is almost equal to fabric cost in various strategies of
washing, where the total FOB value is double the washing cost. The results of the experiment
found clear support for the enzyme bleach wash being the lowest-cost solution and stonewash
producing the highest cost jeans. This provides a good starting point for discussion and further
research. Therefore, future research should be conducted in more realistic settings, of different
nontoxic washing methods and their costing consequences.
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