Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 13

See discussions, stats, and author profiles for this publication at: https://www.researchgate.

net/publication/357340289

WASHING IMPACTS ON JEANS COSTING

Article in INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF ADVANCED RESEARCH IN ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY · December 2021
DOI: 10.34218/IJARET.12.12.2021.004

CITATIONS READS

2 2,197

5 authors, including:

A T M Mohibullah Umme Magreba Takebira


BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
18 PUBLICATIONS 49 CITATIONS 27 PUBLICATIONS 53 CITATIONS

SEE PROFILE SEE PROFILE

Md Zawadul Hossain Tonmoy Chakraborty


BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology
5 PUBLICATIONS 8 CITATIONS 2 PUBLICATIONS 2 CITATIONS

SEE PROFILE SEE PROFILE

All content following this page was uploaded by A T M Mohibullah on 27 December 2021.

The user has requested enhancement of the downloaded file.


International Journal of Advanced Research in Engineering and Technology (IJARET)
Volume 12, Issue 12, December 2021, pp. 33-44, Article ID: IJARET_12_12_004
Available online at https://iaeme.com/Home/issue/IJARET?Volume=12&Issue=12
ISSN Print: 0976-6480 and ISSN Online: 0976-6499
DOI: https://doi.org/10.34218/IJARET.12.12.2021.004

© IAEME Publication Scopus Indexed

WASHING IMPACTS ON JEANS COSTING


A T M Mohibullah1*, Umme Magreba Takebira1, Mohammed Shamsul Alam2,
Md. Zawadul Hossain3, Tonmoy Chakraborty3 and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury3
1
Assistant Professor, Department of Apparel Manufacturing & Technology,
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh
2
Assistant Professor and Coordinator, Department of AMT & FDT, Sonargaon University,
Dhaka, Bangladesh
3
Department of Apparel Manufacturing & Technology, BGMEA University of Fashion &
Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh
*Corresponding Author

ABSTRACT
Jeans are popular for being more comfortable, long-lasting and require less
washing. Raw denim is difficult to wear. Different types of wash make it wearable,
comfortable and give a better feel with a fashionable look. The garments are washed by
various processes and include stringent methods to prevent harmful production
processes. Most of the non-toxic processes have a significant effect on the cost of the
finished product. Consumer awareness of the harmful production processes and the
price effects of their alternatives are still very low. The focus of this study is to calculate
the cost-effectiveness of denim washing on the finished product. Enzyme wash, enzyme
bleach wash, rubber ball wash, acid wash and stonewash were applied on jeans to
evaluate washing cost effects. The chemical and mechanical result of these five wash`s
experiments was assessed, the cost and final product price were calculated under
industrial conditions for each wash. The cost of stonewash jeans is noticeably higher
than the other alternatives. Enzyme bleach wash is the lowest-cost alternatives. Enzyme
bleach effect is endorsed as best for producer and end-user.
Key words: Apparel, Costing, Denim washing, Jeans, Stone Wash.
Cite this Article: A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul
Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain, Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury,
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing, International Journal of Advanced Research in
Engineering and Technology (IJARET). 12(12), 2021, pp. 33-44.
https://iaeme.com/Home/issue/IJARET?Volume=12&Issue=12

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 33 editor@iaeme.com
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing

1. INTRODUCTION
The denim industry is one of the biggest sellers in the global apparel market because of its
fashion popularity. Denim was traditionally coloured blue with indigo to make jeans. It is so
popular because jeans had an appeal that transcended culture, age and place. Variation of
washing techniques is now developing new vogues and new markets for denim. World
consumption of denim clothing today is equivalent to about 4,500 million meters per year. The
worldwide requirement for denim is growing 5% and the supply is growing at 8% per year [1].
By 2020, the global denim industry was worth USD 64.1 billion, up from USD 56.2 billion in
2014. Denim is environmentally friendly [2] because it is prepared with cotton and is hygro-
scopic in nature [3-4]. Coarse count yarns are used to make the denim a heavy fabric [5].
Fashion trends change for denim with different kinds of washing methods. Garment washing is
a focal point for textile engineers and chemical engineers to use their professional skills in
today’s Ready-Made Garment business. Wearable denim clothing requires spinning, dyeing,
weaving, and the most important is the washing process. There are mainly two types of wash
process- wet process and dry process. In the production of jeans, these two types of washing
are important. In wet processing, enzyme wash, bleach wash, acid wash, stone wash, towel
bleach wash and acid enzyme wash are fashionable for jeans. Dry processes include
sandblasting, whispering, PP spray, tagging, destroying, etc. After dyeing the fabrics, the
garments are washed changing their appearance.
With the use of denim in the garment export market, clothing must be of high-quality offer
value for money visual appeal. Prior studies show that stone wash is saving money and it has a
better environmental impact on companies [6-7]. Modern functions using various types of
garment processing brings greater financial profits [8]. Between the 18th century and 19th-
century, different washing methods were invented which are still used worldwide. Producers
now develop these methods to make the process easier and cheaper. The process must give the
garment a good look and not be harmful. Yet, as harm is reduced, the cost tends to rise. Few
consumers understand this connection between making the garment production harmless and
its increased price on the shelf. Already many good practices have been initiated, such as
organic cotton denim, lyocell denim and better cotton initiative denim. However, without
washing, all of these denim jeans look the same. The consumer’s concept of the quality of the
product comes from how it looks, which is created in the washing process [9].
Therefore, the objective of this study is to calculate the cost difference among different
processes of denim washing of jeans. To make this calculation for finished jeans, enzyme,
enzyme bleach, rubber ball, acid wash and stonewash tests were applied.

2. LITERATURE REVIEW
Previous studies have almost exclusively focused on the fact that worldwide denim garments
are worn 3.5 days per week [10] and this average is also increasing annually. Chinese customers
spent 275 USD per year on apparel and it increased 131% [11]. Prior research confirmed the
highest usage is in Germany; where jeans are worn 5.2 times per week, 70% of consumers
globally said that they appreciated and enjoyed wearing jeans [10]. They liked that jeans can be
worn in any season [12] due to thermo-physiological comfort [13]. Therefore, producers
concentrated on differentiating the appearance of their garments through wash processes to cash
on this large and growing world market. In their appeal, jeans have transcended gender, age
group and profession [14]. Research has focused on understanding the consumer’s demand:
their perception of jeans, their concept of the value of jeans, how they choose among jeans, and
the role of branding of jeans [15-20]. Denim fast fashion was a reaction to the proliferation of
different denim products. A business model based on low-priced, trend-led products requires
constant innovation to differentiate the product [21]. As a result, since fast fashion began, the

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 34 editor@iaeme.com
A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain,
Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury

overall annual increase in demand for jeans is estimated to be two percent, but brands now
produce almost twice the number of clothing collections compared to those in 2000 [22- 24].
The slow increase in consumption and a large increase in the production of fashion products
have caused the market price of clothing to be too low to be profitable. So now, manufacturers
are competing on low-cost attributes of the jeans, like brand and wash effects. The wash colour
and its product are one of the most frequent visual factors influencing consumers to buy,
followed by style, stitch and fabric [19, 25].
Consumers like denim jeans. Price is important but they are searching for a good look and
comfort [26]. Fit, comfort, style, workmanship, and colour are the key factors in the consumer’s
decision-making on which jeans to buy [26]. Different wash outcome attributes of jeans thus
influence the buying behaviour of consumers [27, 28].

3. MATERIALS AND METHODS


Five pieces of raw jeans denim fabric, trims, accessories and CM charge were calculated to
determine the cost of the finished product after different strategies of denim washing. Five
different methods of chemical and mechanical wash - enzyme wash, enzyme bleach wash,
rubber ball wash, acid wash and stonewash - were applied, under industrial conditions, to a
single sample developed for each wash, in a denim washing factory.

Table 1 Fabric consumption of different parts of jeans

Five medium-size jeans were developed with the following measurements and as presented
Parts name Calculation Consumption
1 (39−1.5+1+1)×( 9.5+1)×4
(𝐹𝑢𝑙𝑙 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ − 𝑤𝑎𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑛𝑑 ℎ𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 + 𝐻𝑒𝑚 + 𝑆𝐴) × ( 𝑡ℎ𝑖𝑔ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 4 =
Leg Panel 2 56×36 Here, Shrinkage
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 0.823 11%
1 (1.5×2+1)×( 20.53×2+1)×1
(𝑊𝑎𝑖𝑠𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑛𝑑 ℎ𝑒𝑖𝑔ℎ𝑡 × 2 + 𝑆𝐴) × ( 𝑤𝑎𝑖𝑠𝑡 × 2 + 𝑆𝐴) × 1 Body Fabric
Waist Band 2 56×36
consumption=
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 = 0.084
(0.823+
Front (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 2 (9+1)×( 6.5+1)×2 0.084+0.074+0.0
Pocket = 0.074
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 56×36 6+0.008) +
Facing
Shrinkage%
(𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 2 (7.5+1)×( 6+1)×2
Back Pocket = 0.06 = 1.049 yds
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 56×36
+11%
(𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × 1 (3+1)×( 3+1)×1
Coin Pocket = 0.008 =1.164 yds
𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 56×36
Pocketing fabric
Pocket bag (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑔 𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) × (𝑃𝑜𝑐𝑘𝑒𝑡 𝑏𝑎𝑔 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ + 𝑆𝐴) ×(15+1)×(
2 6.5+1)×2
= 0.121 yds
= 0.121
(Front) 𝐹𝑎𝑏𝑟𝑖𝑐 𝑤𝑖𝑑𝑡ℎ × 36 55×36

in Table 1. The measurement unit used the inch. The measurements used were: Full length-
39 inch, outseam-39 inch, ½ thigh-9.5 inch, waistband height-1.5 inch, ½ waist-20.53 inch,
front pocket length- 9 inch, front pocket width- 6.5 inch, front pocket bag length-15 inch, front
pocket bag width-6.5 inch, back pocket length- 7.5 inch, back pocket width- 6 inch, coin pocket
length- 3 inch, coin pocket width- 3 inch, shell fabric width- 57 inch, pocketing fabric width-
56 inch, shrinkage- 11%, hem-1 inch, all allowances 0.5 inch.

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 35 editor@iaeme.com
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing

Table 2 Costing of a raw jeans fabric, trims & accessories with CM


Fabric Consumption
Wastage Consumption Unit Amoun
Description Consumption Unit
(%) (with wastage) price t
Shell fabric (98%
1.164 yds/gmt 1.22 yds/gmt $2.75 yds $ 3.36
cotton, 2% Elastic 5%
Pocketing Fabric 0.121 yds/gmt 0.13 yds/gmt $1.00 yds $ 0.13
Total Fabric Price $ 3.49
Trims & Accessories
Thread $ 0.20 1 $ 0.20
Zipper $ 0.15 1 $ 0.15
Button $ 0.10 1 $ 0.10
Rivets $ 0.15 5 $ 0.75
Fit Label $ 0.05 1 $ 0.05
Woven Label $ 0.04 1 $ 0.04
Leather Patch $ 0.28 1 $ 0.28
Care Label $ 0.05 1 $ 0.05
Size Sticker $ 0.02 1 $ 0.02
Poly bag $ 0.05 1 $ 0.05
Other Packing accessories $ 0.10 1 $ 0.10
CM cost $ 0.80 1 $ 0.80
Total Trims & Accessories Cost with CM charge $ 2.59
Total Price for 1 Pcs garment (Fabric + Trims & Accessories) $ 6.08
The fabric, which was 98% cotton, 2% elastic composition and 381 GSM fabrics (width 57
inches), was used as a shell fabric, dyed in indigo, of the measurements 72 × 48 / 9 × 7.
1.164 yards. Fabric, as presented in Table 2, was used for a single sample construction. The
fabric was 65% polyester, 35% cotton was considered as a pocketing fabric. 0.16 yards of fabric
was required for a single sample pocket; consumption was presented in Table 2. 120 meters of
(40 Tex and 24 Tex) sewing thread was used for each sample swing. Fabrics’, trim’ &
accessories’ estimated costing is also presented in Table 2. A one-piece shank button, a metal
zipper and rivets were used to develop a single sample and estimate its cost. Polyester fit label,
woven label, care label and size sticker label were used to complete the sample as trims &
accessories. A leather brand patch label was also used. A good-looking printed polyester bag
was supplied to store the finished sample.

3.1. Washing Methods


3.1.1. Enzyme Wash
There were four steps in an enzyme wash to develop sample-1 in experiment-1: desizing, acid,
neutral wash and drying. For desizing, water and sample were combined, and then the machine
was started. After that, soda, caustic soda and Bio.D ashes (Biological detergent as desizing
agent, soda ash), were added. In the third stage, steam was used to raise the temperature of the
sample to 60°C the processing time was taken 25 minutes. Liquor was dropped and the sample
was washed down twice in the final stage. After rinsing, acid was added. Then the garment was
washed again. In this stage, the enzyme was added after cleaning up. A washing softener was
added and the garments were dried hot and also cool. Water was added to the neutral wash and
the machine was started. After that, hypo sulfide was added and steam was used to raise the
temperature to 45°C. Process time was 10 minutes. Then liquor was dropped. In the final stage,
for drying the sample (Figure 1) water was then taken out using hydro extraction and then it
was sent to a dryer for final drying.

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 36 editor@iaeme.com
A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain,
Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury

Figure 1 Enzyme wash effects front and back view of jeans

3.2. Enzyme Bleach Wash


There were six steps in enzyme bleach wash (sample-2) experiment-2: desizing, enzyme wash,
and bleaching, neutral wash, tinting and drying. At first, the sample was put into water in the
machine and it was started. After that, soda, caustic soda and Bio.D ashes was added to raise
the temperature to 60°C which took 25 minutes of process time. Liquor was dropped and the
sample was washed down twice in its final phase. In the second stage, water was added. The
machine was started. Then enzyme (powder), acetic acid and anti-back and pumice stone were
added, raising the temperature to 50°C. Process time was 60 minutes. Then the liquor was
dropped. For bleaching, water was added; the machine was started; KCI (35% Cl2) and soda
ash were added; steam was added to raise the temperature to 60°C. Process time was 10 minutes
and then here also the liquor was dropped.

Figure 2 Enzyme bleach wash effects on jeans

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 37 editor@iaeme.com
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing

Water was added to the neutral wash and the machine was started. After that, hypo sulfide
was added and steam was used to raise the temperature to 45°C. Process time was 10 minutes
after that the liquor was dropped. In this stage, water was added again. The machine was started
after that 0.01% direct black V-200 and 0.02% direct brown GTL, with salt, were added. Steam
was used to raise the temperature to 70°C. Process time was 20 minutes. At the final stage of
tinting, all shade was checked. After that, the liquor was dropped. In the last stage, the sample
(Figure: 2) was then taken out, using hydro extraction, and then sent to a dryer.

3.3. Rubber Ball Wash


Only two steps were used to develop sample-3 in rubber ball wash experiment-3: desizing and
softening. At first, water and the sample were put into the machine and the machine was started.
After that, soda, caustic soda and Bio.D ashes were added and the temperature was raised to
60°C. Process time was 25 minutes. Liquor was dropped and the sample was washed down
twice in its final phase. After hydro extracting, the garments were sent to the dryer. Adding
softening agents, the temperature was raised again. Each garment was rotated at a normal
temperature. Figure 3 presents the rubber ball wash effects on jeans from a front and back view.

Figure 3 Rubber ball wash effects on jeans

3.4. Acid Wash


For sample-4, there were seven steps in acid wash experiment-4: desizing, hydro extraction,
pumice stone, neutral wash, softening and drying. At first, the sample was put into water in the
machine and the machine was started. After that, soda, caustic soda and Bio.D ashes were
added. Then; steam was used to raise the temperature to 60°C. Process time was 25 minutes.
Liquor was dropped and the sample was washed down twice in its final phase. After desizing,
samples were sent to the hydro extracting machine and rotated. The pumice stone was added
into the wash bath with hot water and the machine was run for 5 -7 minutes. Then a pumice
stone was dumped into the water. Water was added to the neutral wash and the machine was
started. After that, hypo sulfide was added and steam was used to raise the temperature to 45°C
process time was 10 minutes. Then liquor was dropped. After neutralization, the samples were
sent to the hydro extracting machine. The sample was rotated. After hydro extraction, the
sample was sent to the dryer. After raising the temperature, a softening agent was added to

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 38 editor@iaeme.com
A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain,
Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury

rotate the garment at normal temperature. In the last stage of acid wash, garments (Figure: 4)
were then taken out, using hydro extraction and then sent to the dryer.

Figure 4 Acid wash effects on jeans

3.5. Stone Wash


There were five steps in stonewash experiment-5 (sample-5): desizing, stonewash with bleach,
neutral wash, softening and drying. At first, the sample was put into water in the machine and
the machine was started. After that, soda, caustic soda and Bio.D ashes was added. The
temperature was raised to 60°C. Process time was 25 minutes. Liquor was dropped and the
sample was washed down twice in its final phase. Stones and water were added after adding
bleach. At that time, the machine was started. Then the water stones were dumped.

Figure 5 Stone wash effects on jeans

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 39 editor@iaeme.com
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing

Water was added to the neutral wash and the machine was started. After that, acetic acid
was added and steam was used to raise the temperature to 45°C. Process time was 10 minutes.
After hydro extraction, the sample was sent to the dryer. The softening agent was added as the
garment rotated at normal temperature. Then, at the last stage, the garments were taken out,
using hydro extraction and then sent to a dryer. Figure 5 shows the stonewash effects on the
jeans front and back view.

4. RESULT & DISCUSSION


From the short review above, key findings emerge that different types of wash have a different
impact on denim surfaces. The present study confirmed all previous findings of the effect of
washing on jeans. The five different washing methods show the significant impact of washing
on jeans’ costing as well as on their aesthetic look.

Table 3 Washing cost of enzyme, enzyme bleach, rubber ball, acid wash and stonewash

Washing Cost
Sample-1: Sample-2: Sample-3: Sample-4: Sample-5:
Enzyme Wash Enzyme Bleach Rubber Ball Wash Acid Wash Stone Wash
Enzyme $1.20 Enzyme $1.30 Rubber Ball
$1.50 Acid Wash $1.50 Stone Wash $1.80 Pc
Wash Bleach Wash
PP spray $0.10 PP spray $0.10 Tagging $0.10 PP spray $0.10 Tagging $0.20 Pc
Tagging $0.10 Tagging $0.10 Whiskering $0.20 Tagging $0.10 Whiskering $0.20 Pc
Whiskering $0.20 Whiskering $0.20 Grinding $0.20 Whiskering $0.20 Grinding $0.10 Pc
Destroy $0.30 Grinding $0.08 - - - - Destroy $0.10 Pc
Total ∑ $ 1.90 Total ∑ $1.78 Total ∑ $2.00 Total ∑ $1.90 Total ∑ $2.40 pc
Raw Jeans Cost $ 6.08 Pc
Total Price of Total Price of Total Price of
Total Price of 1 Total Price of 1
1 piece $ 7.98 1 piece $ 7.86 $ 8.08 $ 7.98 1 piece $ 8.48 Pc
piece garment piece garment
garment garment garment

At first, the shell fabric and the pocketing fabric cost was calculated. The required shell
fabric was 1.164 yards per garment; the cost was $3.36, as the price per yard of shell fabric was
$2.75. The pocketing fabric cost was $0.13 per garment. Trims and accessories cost $2.59,
including sewing thread, labels, buttons, zippers, rivets, and, most important, CM cost. Before
washing, the raw denim manufacturing cost of jeans was $6.08 FOB. Where the fabric cost was
$3.49, and trims & accessories cost was $2.59, as presented in Table 2.
Table 3 shows that enzyme wash increases the cost to $7.98, as enzyme wash and dry
process cost was $1.90. In the case of enzyme bleach, the total denim manufacturing cost was
$7.86, and the washing cost was $1.78. Rubber ball wash increased the cost to $8.08, including
washing cost $2.00. Acid wash, including pp spray, tagging, and whiskering, incurred $1.90
and the total denim production cost was $7.98. Among the five washing samples highlighted in
this paper, the stonewash cost is considerably higher than the others, its total cost being $8.48,
as wash cost was $2.40.
Figure 6 shows the washing cost effect on the total cost. These findings are consistent with
research results showing that enzyme wash consumed 22%; enzyme bleach wash 23%, rubber
ball wash 25%, acid wash 24% and stonewash consumed 28% of its total cost. This result
highlights that washing cost has a major effect on the total cost of jeans.

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 40 editor@iaeme.com
A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain,
Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury

Series1, Series1,
Enzyme Enzyme
Wash, 1.7, Bleach,
22% 1.78, 23%
Series1, Total
Series1, Total fabric Price,
Series1, fabric Price, 3.49, 44%
Series1,
Total 3.49, 45% Total
Trims & Trims &
Accessorie Accessorie
s Cost with s Cost with
CM CM charge,
charge, 2.59, 33%
2.59, 33%

Figure 6 (b)
Figure 6 (a)

Series1,
Series1, Acid
Rubber Ball Wash, 1.9,
wash, 2, 24%
25% Series1, Total Series1, Total
fabric Price, 3.49, fabric Price,
43% 3.49, 44%
Series1, Total
Series1, Total Trims &
Trims & Accessories
Accessories Cost Cost with CM
with CM charge, charge, 2.59,
2.59, 32% 32%

Figure: 6 (c) Figure: 6(d)

Series1, Stone
Wash, 2.4, 28%
Series1, Total
fabric Price, 3.49,
41%

Series1, Total Trims


& Accessories Cost
with CM charge,
2.59, 31%

Figure: 6 (e)

Figure 6 Enzyme (a), enzyme bleach (b), rubber ball (c), acid (d) and stone (e) washing cost
percentage on total costing

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 41 editor@iaeme.com
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing

3 Washing Cost ($)


2.5

Enzyme Wash
2
Enzyme Bleach

1.5 Rubber Ball Wash

Acid Wash
1
Stone Wash

0.5

0
Enzyme Enzyme Rubber Ball Acid Wash Stone Wash
Wash Bleach Wash

Figure 7 Washing cost of five different wash

Total Price of 1 piece garment


8.6
8.5 Enzyme Wash
8.4 Enzyme Bleach
8.3
8.2 Rubber Ball Wash
8.1
Acid Wash
8
7.9 Stone Wash
7.8
7.7
7.6
7.5
Enzyme Enzyme Rubber Ball Acid Wash Stone Wash
Wash Bleach Wash

Figure 8 Finished jeans cost with wash cost


Figure: 7 & 8 presents the important finding that stonewash cost is highest both in terms of
washing cost and total product cost. Another important finding is that rubber ball wash cost is
the second-highest in cost. Enzyme bleach wash is the; least costly strategy. The highest-cost
stonewash is 28% of the total cost. The least-costly enzyme bleach wash cost was 22% of the
total cost. Of course, these differences in cost must be reflected in product price to avoid losses
in sales or sub-optimizing profit.

5. CONCLUSION
Washing effects give jeans their pleasing aesthetics, so they are key tools in creating new
fashion. The cost of denim washing varies due to different reasons such as raw material
availability, the number of orders, and buyers’ demand. The main finding of this study is that
the total cost of jeans depends on the washing process used. The findings show the actual

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 42 editor@iaeme.com
A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Mohammed Shamsul Alam, Md. Zawadul Hossain,
Tonmoy Chakraborty and Md. Rawful Alam Chowdhury

costing sheet that describes washing cost is almost equal to fabric cost in various strategies of
washing, where the total FOB value is double the washing cost. The results of the experiment
found clear support for the enzyme bleach wash being the lowest-cost solution and stonewash
producing the highest cost jeans. This provides a good starting point for discussion and further
research. Therefore, future research should be conducted in more realistic settings, of different
nontoxic washing methods and their costing consequences.

REFERENCES
[1] A. P. Periyasamy, and J. Militky, "Denim and consumers’ phase of life cycle," Sustainability in
denim, Woodhead Publishing, 2017, pp. 257-282. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102043-
2.00010-1.
[2] J. Kim, C. Yun, Y. Park, and C.H. Park, "Post-consumer energy consumption of textile products
during ‘use’phase of the lifecycle. " Fibers and Polymers, 16(4), pp. 926-933, June 2015.
https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-015-0926-8.
[3] J. McLoughlin, S. Hayes, and R. Paul, "Cotton fibre for denim manufacture." Denim. Woodhead
Publishing, 2015, pp. 15-36. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-85709-843-6.00002-0.
[4] E. Hoshino, Y. Wada, and K. Nishizawa, "Improvements in the hygroscopic properties of cotton
cellulose by treatment with an endo-type cellulase from Streptomyces sp. KSM-26," Journal of
bioscience and bioengineering, Vol. 88, Issue 5, pp.519-525.,1999.
https://doi.org/10.1016/S1389-1723(00)87669-0.
[5] R. Paul, "Denim and jeans: an overview," Denim, 2015. pp. 1-11. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-
0-85709-843-6.00001-9.
[6] R. Bhala, V.Dhandhania, and A.P. Periyasamy, "Bio-finishing of fabrics,” Asian Dyer, 9(4),
pp.45-49, 2012. [Online]. Available: https://www.asiandyer.com/ [Accessed Sept. 10, 2020].
[7] A.P. Periyasamy, and H.Venkatesan, "Eco-materials in textile finishing." Handbook of
Ecomaterials. Springer International Publishing, Cham, pp.1-22, February 2019. DOI:
10.1007/978-3-319-68255-6_55.
[8] A.P. Periyasamy, and J. Militky, "Technical University Liberec, Liberec, Czech Republic,"
Sustainability in Denim, pp.161, 2017.
[9] S. Forsythe, A.B. Presley, and K.W. Caton, "Dimensions of apparel quality influencing
consumers' perceptions," Perceptual and Motor Skills, 83(1), pp.299-305, August 1996.
https://doi.org/10.2466/pms.1996.83.1.299.
[10] G.L. Monitor, "Global Lifestyle Monitor survey on denim," Cotton Council International,
Cotton Incorporated, and Synovate, 2008. Available at www. cottoninc.
com/supplychaininsights/europeanviewsonfiberanddenim/europeanviewsonfiberanddenim.
pdf. Accessed June, 14, p. 2010.
[11] D. Miller, and S. Woodward, Blue Jeans. University of California Press, 2012.
https://doi.org/10.1525/9780520952089
[12] P.V.M. Karunaratne, M.B.M.W. Wijayakuruppu, U.G.S. Wijayapala, and G.M. Ranathunga,
"A study on the factors influencing the preference of Sri Lankan consumers for the use of denim
jeans," Journal of Advanced Research in Social Sciences and Humanities, Vol. 5, Issue 6, pp.
217-232), March 2021. http://dx.doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.3790250.
[13] M.G. McEachern, D. Middleton, and T. Cassidy, "Encouraging sustainable behaviour change
via a social practice approach: A focus on apparel consumption practices," Journal of Consumer
Policy, 43(2), pp.397-418, March 2020. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10603-020-09454-0

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 43 editor@iaeme.com
Washing Impacts on Jeans Costing

[14] D. Vijayalakshmi and T. Ramachandran, "Isolates application of multi-functional finishes on


denim garments," Daffodil International University Journal of Science and Technology, 7(1),
pp.60-66, 2012. https://doi.org/10.3329/diujst.v7i1.9649
[15] S.J. Hwang Shin, D. Fowler, and J. Lee, "Teens and college students' purchasing decision factors
of denim jeans in the United States," Fashion & Textile Research Journal, 15(6), pp.971-976,
2013. https://doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2013.15.6.971
[16] B. Jin, J.Y. Park and J.S. Ryu, "Comparison of Chinese and Indian consumers' evaluative criteria
when selecting denim jeans: A conjoint analysis," Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management: An International Journal, 2010. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612021011025492
[17] U. Manzoor, S. A. Baig, E. Malik, and Muhammad Ibrahim Shahid, “Consumer Perceptions of
Brands in Pakistan’s Denim Industry”, Pk j mul res, vol. 1, no. 1, pp. 1-13, Jun. 2020.
[18] O. Rahman, "Understanding consumers’ perceptions and buying behaviours: Implications for
Denim Jeans Design," Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, 7(1),
2011.
[19] O. Rahman, "The influence of visual and tactile inputs on denim jeans evaluation," International
Journal of Design, 6(1), pp.11-25, 2012.
[20] J. Wu, and M. Delong, "Chinese perceptions of western‐branded denim jeans: a Shanghai case
study," Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal. 2006.
https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610667531
[21] K. Niinimäki, G. Peters, H. Dahlbo, P. Perry, T. Rissanen, and A. Gwilt, Author Correction:
"The environmental price of fast fashion," Nature Reviews Earth & Environment, 1(5), pp.278-
278, Apr 2020. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
[22] M. Eckman, M.L. Damhorst, and S.J. Kadolph, "Toward a model of the in-store purchase
decision process: Consumer use of criteria for evaluating women's apparel," Clothing and
Textiles Research Journal, 8(2), pp.13-22, 1990.
https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X9000800202
[23] K. Fletcher, Craft of use: post-growth fashion, 2016. Routledge.
[24] N. Remy, E. Speelman, and S., Swartz, Style that’s sustainable: A new fast-fashion formula.
McKinsey Global Institute, 2016.
[25] M.B. Ahmad, H.F. Ali, M.S. Malik, A.A. Humayun, and S. Ahmad, "Factors affecting
impulsive buying behavior with mediating role of positive mood: An empirical study,"
European Online Journal of Natural and Social Sciences, 8(1), pp.pp-17, 2019. Openly
accessible at http://www.european-science.com
[26] D.R. Yadav, S. Khandai, and S.P. Singh, "Examination of the moderation effect of generations
on buying behavior of women: A special focus on fashion apparel," Yadav, R, pp.147-166, 2019.
https://ssrn.com/abstract=3493782
[27] M.E. Swinker, and J.D. Hines, "Understanding consumers’ perception of clothing quality: A
multidimensional approach," International journal of consumer studies, 30(2), pp.218-223,
2006. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1470-6431.2005.00478.x
[28] J.C. Olson, and J. Jacoby, Cue utilization in the quality perception process, 1972. ACR Special
Volumes.

https://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJARET 44 editor@iaeme.com

View publication stats

You might also like