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Ijm 11 11 1551
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Md Zawadul Hossain
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Md. Zawadul Hossain, Rasel Mahmud, Rafiuzzaman Imon, Md. Rohul Amin Khan and
Md. Mehedi Hasan Mazumder
Department of Apparel Manufacturing & Technology, BGMEA University of Fashion &
Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh
*Corresponding Author
ABSTRACT
Fashion moves forward and never holds back for the denim jacket that is
becoming more fashionable than ever before. To expand the appeal of consumer,
different types of denim jacket is designed using traditional and new approaches with
different wash effect. There is no methodical approach to analysis the cost elements of
a new garment to reduce its price according to customer demand based on its quality.
The main problem is that the cost to construct a new garment is not always same as it
will be predictable at the sample level. These typically complex problems are difficult
to handle through the range of issue. Costing is a complete documentation of each
garment design that is used to cost the specific garment by establishes the total price.
Denim jacket-manufacturing factories were selected to collect the usual costing
method. Different department activities of these factories were analyzed to develop the
control and uncontrolled unit of costing to reduce product price. There are three
central theoretical, and conceptual frameworks were developed in this study for
garment costing, first- material cost (fabric, trims and accessories); second- test,
wash, CM cost and other required costs; finally- retail cost with profit. There are
more sub-factors in these factors. The specific cost will lead to understanding the
ranges of a jacket cost as its all-possible wash and other variation are delivered as
well. Extensive results carried out showing method improves to find out the significant
factors of garments costing. These approaches have been influential to analysis
control and uncontrolled unit of cost according to customer demand in the field of the
apparel business where costing is the most crucial factor before executing any order.
Key words: Analysis, Costing, Consumption, Denim, FOB, Jacket.
Cite this Article: A T M Mohibullah, Umme Magreba Takebira, Md. Zawadul
Hossain, Rasel Mahmud, Rafiuzzaman Imon, Md. Rohul Amin Khan and Md. Mehedi
Hasan Mazumder, Factors that Influence Consumption and Costing – A Systematic
Approach for Costing Denim Jacket, International Journal of Management, 11(11),
2020, pp 1630-1642.
http://www.iaeme.com/IJM/issues.asp?JType=IJM&VType=11&IType=11
1. INTRODUCTION
Research on product cost analysis to continue the apparel business has no longer tradition.
Recent apparel merchandising software developments have revealed that process within a few
minutes. A common strategy was used to study the elements that have a significant impact on
product costing. The apparel business is expanding into more departments and items
gradually. The particular garment costing details, which provide the accumulation of every
item with a profit margin of manufacturer and retailer, is the selling price that the company
will quote to customers. There are three major theoretical and conceptual frameworks for
garment costing, first- material cost, second- test, wash and CM cost; lastly- retail cost. Fabric
is an essential component to make a garment. Most of the part of the total cost is required for
fabric manufacturing or purchasing. All consumption and cost were created precisely and
most accurately to minimize the price and offer the most attractive range. Therefore, this is
currently an established field, which is now being spun out into commercial applications
before making a garment, and consumption requires to be done for fabric costing, sewing
thread costing, polybag and carton booking. Fabric and sewing thread consumption of the
body parts are also desired to be measured and calculated for the actual amount of fabric
required for a garment. The length width and height also need to be measured for poly and
carton consumption according to the requirement of the purchase order sheet maintaining
various supply chain. Garment producers use a different procedure for making a cost sheet,
which seems to be a common problem in the apparel sector. The garment-costing sheet is
made to offer the wholesale price to the retailer and consumer for the goods.
Consequently, the final product price is rising gradually and its failure to produce the
product according to maintaining product quality and price. Therefore, this remains an open
problem in the ready-made garment business area. The majority of the apparel industries
consider that it is essential to have modification on garment cost analysis, especially for
finished products [1]. Not many of previous research has investigated [2-3] to use on a
systematic approach for product costing in targeting to meet up consumer demand. Other
studies have failed to analyze and identify the factor of costing [4-5], which has a more
considerable impact on product price that creates the unsteady circumstances in the global
apparel market. Only a few studies have shown the activity-based costing system [6-8] and
analysis for a fashion product.
Moreover, few studies have focused on [9-11] different factors that influence the choice
between an activities based cost system and traditional cost system. It presents some margins,
such as the traditional method of costing is not well established in the garment sector or
widely accepted. It suffers from some confines due to the complication of using different cost
based software. When comparing our results among prior studies, it must be pointed out that
it provides a methodical technique to complete costing procedure in addition to analyze and
reduce cost maintaining the quality of the product—the inference of these findings, which
discussed to cost procedure that influences elements of cost. A methodical approach was
applied to solve these problems of cost analysis doing the costing very carefully based on raw
materials, manufacturing cost, maintaining the company’s profit, and not exceeding the
buyer’s expectation. Some approaches have been made to defeat this problem and to find out
the main components of a garment costing which are fabric, trims & accessories, cut & sew,
value-added services (wash cost, dyeing cost, appliqué, testing of the garment quality, cargo
booking cost and logistics cost). We have investigated the elements that influence the
financial cost. There are many financial costs of different areas for manufacturers, such as
rent, salaries, insurance, and utilities. Our study aims at finding a solution for this challenging
problem of cost management parameters that directly affect the garment cost mostly in unit
measurement, minimum order quantity (MOQ), incoterm decided between raw materials
supplier and garment manufacturer. The overall objective of this work was to design and
establish a procedure for creating a cost sheet from fabric purchasing to the retailer. This
project aims to develop an overarching framework to complete the costing and consumption
of a denim jacket. The techniques are demonstrated for making various aspects of cost. After
defining the problem, we explain the goals of the study through the price point that are
affected by market demand and the current position of the manufacturer country. It has
significant benefits in terms of these dynamic factors, which influence the total costing and
manufacturing.
2. METHOD
First and second proto costing, salesman or commercial sample stage costing and final costing
of merchandise is done before the production and price-fixing, re-costing is done where there
is any change in machinery, production process, materials or garment components and actual
costs are determined during production [12]. Six different denim jacket-manufacturing
factories were selected in Gazipur, Bangladesh, to collect the conventional costing method.
The store, CAD, sample section, product and development department, logistic section,
commercials department, merchandising management and finishing department activities
were analyzed to develop the costing principal. For this study, we analyzed the data collected
from previous purchase order sheet (PO) and costing, consumption and different supplier
documents of winter collection 2018 and 2019. The focus of the study was to develop a
fundamental process of costing with its different parameters effect. Methods were based on
previous experiments [4, 13 - 20] in the course of the investigation; develop process will be
played an essential role in the apparel business and academic sector. The following purchase
order sheet (PO) and technical packets (tech pack) showing in the Table: 1 & 2 which were
used to design the elementary method of consumption and costing. Measurement
specification sheet is a part of the purchase order sheet for denim jacket presented in the
Table: 3.
The purchase order sheet (Table: 1 & 2) is showing the product details as well as order
quantity. According to the order details, four different sizes (M- XXL) denim jacket was
ordered where total quantity was 39000 pieces. The jacket was constructed by 100% cotton,
denim fabric using enzyme wash.
For fabric consumption, 1-inch selvedge was considered as an unusable area of 63-inch
fabric width. Fabric wastage percentage was not integrated during consumption due to
different influences of marker making process, fabric defect and worker efficiency on wastage
of fabric.
Washing cost for the jacket was in July 2019: PP sprays $0.20, whisker $0.25, enzyme
stone with bleach $0.55. Therefore, the total washing costs was $1.00. There was another
significant cost called cut and make (CM) cost. The jacket factory per month total cost was $
175000, entire line 08, the number of the machine per line 72, the total number of machines
576, the number of working days per month 26, per hour per line output 120 pieces, daily
working hour 8. Therefore, CM cost-The usual cost per machine per day = total factory cost/
(machine number × per month working days) = 175000/ (576×26) = $11.69. So, Line cost per
day = per day machine cost × no. of machine per line = 11.69 × 72 = $ 841.68. Actual output
per line per day = per day working hour × output per hour = 8 × 120 = 960 pieces. Cost of
making (CM) per piece = line cost per day /actual output per line = 841.68/960= $ 0.877.
Total cost of making = CM per piece + 20% profit =0.877+ 20% = $ 1.05.
This analysis found evidence for a complete knowledge of total FOB pricing, including its
all costs. The result highlights that little is known about the cost analysis, and it is
standardized. The result established that fabric, pocketing, trims, accessories, cutting and
making, testing, washing, financial cost, shipment cost and profit are the main fundamentals
of denim jacket costing. With all of its calculations, an approximate standard cost of a denim
jacket can be identified. The study obtains an incomparable approach of manual costing and
analysis with this simple method. The results estimated that the pre-cost was $7.33 for one-
piece denim jacket where FOB price was $7.6965 for 5 % wastage in production. The
estimation method also provided the production-consumption and cost $300,163.5 for 39,000
pieces production presents in the Table: 7. From the results, it is clear that there are two parts
of cost; first, pre-cost and production cost details of FOB cost, the cost of RMG unit and
supply chain cost.
Thread
2% 2% Main and size label
2%
Fit Label
1% 9% 4%
1% Care Label
5% Barcode Label
9% 4% Price Tag
Hang Tag With a sting
6% Fit Tag
2% Single Poly
15% Lot Sticker
4%
Master Poly
1% Metal Press Button
3%
Leather Badge
Security Tag
32% Tissue
Carton
Gum tape
1%
Figure: 4 Costing procedure control and uncontrolled unit according to customer demand
In the entire process of FOB, costing only four steps is showing in Figure: 4; are
uncontrollable unit coded red. Freight, financial cost, total fabric costing with freight,
financial cost, test cost and commercial cost unit are the out of the hand of the manufacturer
on the other hand manufacturer have the prospect to the manageable area of controlled costing
according to customer demand. To investigate this statistically, we calculated the cost would
fluctuate with its test, washing, and item variations. This aspect of the research suggested that
shell fabric, pocketing fabric, trims and accessories, washing, garment testing, CM and other
costs are the major factors during costing and its controllable maintaining accuracy,
decreasing wastage, increasing worker efficiency, lessening product SMV, intensifying
productivity. This is an essential finding in the understanding of the cost can be changed
sharply with different industries but in a small range.
4. CONCLUSION
Denim jacket costing may be considered as a promising aspect of essential requisites in the
Lacking a competitive price is challenging to seize the order and exist in the global market.
This aspect of the study suggested that FOB price for a denim jacket by establishing
chronologically, including its all relevant costing factors. The findings of this study can be
understood as it can be stated that approximately $3.57 provides a fundamental piece. On this
basis, we conclude that Principal costing price covers for fabric and washing. Moreover, some
of the buyers they nominate for suppliers, on that condition price negotiation could be very
tough. This allows the conclusion that the manufacturer can change the consequences by
increasing or diminishing in most of the areas of cost. It has to be controlled in fabric costing,
and washing, which have significant influences in total costing to reduce the price; the method
of costing will help in the academic apparel segment, ready-made garments business,
especially in the denim sector to details of denim jacket costing and about the factors that
directly influence its price. To continue to exist in the competitive apparel market
manufacturers must have to be ascertained about the cost method and its control elements
according to customer demand.
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