DAY TRIPS from SANTA FE to SEATTLE

75
CAMPING
CAMPSITES,
RECIPES,
AND TIPS

in STYLE Jalama
Beach,
Santa
Barbara
County,
CA

MAY 2015

MINI PRO KID-

SUMMER GROWING FRIENDLY
FRUIT TIPS for HOME
PIES TOMATOES DESIGN
VISIT US AT SUNSET.COM
 We are independent farmer-owners, which means our values guide us instead of
profit margins. That’s the way we’ve been doing it since 1909. That’s dairy done right.
 May
EXPERIENCE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
the WEST

“I used to spend more time

66
CAMPING IN STYLE
away from the house for quiet, Become a world-class
camper with our
but now I have it right here.” expert advice, includ-
THE FUN HOUSE, p. 88 ing what gear to buy
and how to cook
excellent outdoor
meals. Plus, compact
trailers and our
favorite campgrounds
around the West to
inspire your summer
travel plans

88
THE FUN HOUSE
This creative, colorful
Oakland home may
look like it’s all play,
but it’s built tough for
the family of six.
By Christine Ciarmello

ON THE COVER

Camping p. 66, 86
Day trips p. 19, 24, 28
Summer fruit pie p. 96
Tomato tips p. 54
Kid-friendly design p. 88
Sleep by the surf at the
Abalone Point group
site at Santa Barbara
County’s Jalama Beach
(page 85). For more
on the Hütte Hut trailer,
see page 86. Cover photo-
graph by Thomas J. Story.
Styling by Gena Sigala.

Photograph by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
 EXPERIENCE the WEST
8 CONVERSATIONS
BEST OF THE WEST
THIS MONTH’S PICKS
11 Stylish camp gear, arts fiesta,
L.A. burger joint, and more
TRAVEL
ASK A LOCAL New hits
19 and underground classics
in Seattle’s Pioneer Square
A PERFECT DAY IN
24 Big Fork, MT (Mountain
edition)
San Diego’s East Village
(SoCal, NorCal & Southwest)
Hood River, OR (Northwest)
Read all three in Sunset’s
Digital Editions (sunset.com/
learnmore).
WANDERLUST
28 Santa Discovering
Fe’s next generation of
Native artists. By Laura Fraser
HOME & GARDEN
95 to enjoy sweet, tangy rhubarb
39 102 yogurt—for soup, appetizer,
May
THIS MONTH’S
RECIPES
BREAKFAST
Breakfast Shakshouka
GF/LC/V .............................84
Whole-Grain Lemon-
Buttermilk Pancakes with
Strawberries V .................. 75
DRINKS & SNACKS
Camp Coffee ........................74
Cool Kebabs ......................112
Forest Negroni ......................78
Smoky Old West ..................78
Yogurt Cheese with Roasted
Beets and Feta .................105
SOUP & SIDE
106 Chilled Avocado and Yogurt
Soup GF/LC/V ................105
Orzo with Sesame and Peas
LS/VG ...............................114
BEFORE & AFTER Splendor FAST & FRESHWeeknight
39 without the grass: drought- 108 meals in 30 minutes or less SANDWICH
savvy front-yard facelifts
IN THE SUNSET KITCHEN
Prosciutto Panini with Rhubarb
50 Modern prefab tile, elegant 112 Top
Relish....................................97
IN THE WESTERN HOME tools and ingredients,
plus a winning pasta recipe MAIN COURSES
swing, wall decals, and more Deconstructed Egg Rolls....110
Grilled Steaks with Celery and
PLANT NOW The secrets to
54 a successful tomato harvest
Anchovy Salad GF ..........110
Harissa-Roasted Chicken with
Chickpeas LC/LS .............106
BREAKTHROUGH A new
60 foxglove hybrid that’s a
hummingbird magnet
Italian-Style Hobo Bundles ..72
Paella-Style Chicken and
Rice LC .................................82
Poached Salmon with White
GARDEN CHECKLIST
62 What to do in your garden
in May
Bean and Radish Salad
GF/LS ...............................108
DESSERTS
SIP Western IPAs’ new
FOOD & DRINK 116 hop flavors—and where
to taste them
Dutch Oven Double Chocolate
Cake V.................................80
PEAK SEASON Three ways Mini Rhubarb Ginger
Answers to
ASK SUNSET
Crostatas LC/LS/V .............96
Roasted Rhubarb with Red
MASTER CLASS Easy DIY 124 your questions, including Wine and Spices LS/V ......98
and marinade
water-wise plants for
a cottage-garden look PANTRY
Greek-Style Yogurt ............104
Rhubarb Relish
GF/LC/LS/VG ....................97
Thick and Creamy Yogurt
GF/LC/LS/V ....................104
Yogurt Cheese....................104
GET MORE PHOTOS + VIDEOS
IN OUR DIGITAL MAGAZINE RECIPE GUIDE
Take Sunset wherever you roam with our Digital Editions for GF: Gluten-free; LC: Low calorie;
LS: Low sodium; V: Vegetarian;
iPad, iPhone, Android, and Kindle Fire. You’ll get every story VG: Vegan
from our print magazine, plus bonus features. This month: Go Our full guide to nutrition,
behind the scenes of Camp Sunset with our video series. See ingredients, and techniques:
how to really cook outdoors, including dutch oven chocolate sunset.com/cookingguide.
cake and gourmet coffee. Learn more: sunset.com/learnmore.

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6 M AY 2 0 1 5
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 CONVERSATIONS

HAPPY CAMPERS
LAST SUMMER, we invited readers to write in and tell us why they
wanted to join Sunset editors on a camping trip. I confess I wasn’t
sure how this was going to work. I crossed my fingers and hoped for
50 letters, figuring we could always recruit some guinea pigs from
among our friends if the response was too paltry.
Well, who knew—our invitation yielded a tsunami of entries,
including one written in the form of the Gettysburg Address. “Four
years and seven months ago our thoughts brought forth, upon our
union, a new notion, conceived in promise, and dedicated to the
proposition that camping would be our thing …” (Thank you, Ryan
and Katie Ariko of San Jose, for this memorable burst of creativity!)
Our would-be campers ranged from complete newbies to people
who had lovingly restored camper vans (and could no doubt teach
us a thing or two). We heard from a couple who wanted to celebrate
their second marriage—to each other—with us (I hope you went
camping anyway and had a blast). A Tucson Cub Scout den leader
admitted to an “aversion to camping.” One reader had erected
a Sunset-style glamping tent—but only in her backyard. Another
had requested a camp stove for her 50th birthday and now wanted
to learn to use it. We heard of disastrous childhood camping Lesson learned: Raccoons enjoy good campground
experiences—food eaten by bears, frozen sleeping bags, motorcycle cooking even more than people do (see page 73).
gangs partying through the night in the tent next door—that readers
hoped could be replaced with happier recollections. We heard from
lots of “mixed” couples who sincerely wanted to share their mates’ enthusiasm—“I have never been
much of a camper, to my very outdoorsy boyfriend’s dismay,” wrote a woman in Bend, Oregon. “I’m
more of a resort gal.”
But most striking was the desire so many people expressed to get off the hamster wheel of our
always-wired life and connect with something deeper. “I haven’t done anything rural for 30 years
and my soul longs for it,” wrote Shelby Paul of Camarillo, California. “Camping changes your life
and gives you a new relationship with the world,” said Debra Sarver of Alameda, California. Ange- Don’t miss …
leno Laura Perry reminisced about her childhood memories: “A canopy of stars … a blanket of silence Our new book Eating Up
broken only by a call of a bird … real conversation.” As our readers so eloquently recognized, camp- the West Coast—the ultimate
food-lover’s road-trip guide:
ing can give you all that and more. sunset.com/roadfoodbook.
In the end, we were throwing darts at the wall to choose two families to accompany us. But the
response has inspired us to start work on our next (bigger) reader camping meet-up (stay tuned!).
And meanwhile, we hope that our game plan for a perfect weekend camping trip (pages 66–85) will JOIN THE SUNSET COMMUNITY
Become a fan on:
help you have what one reader most hopes for: “The maximum number of outdoor adventures and
facebook.com/
the minimum number of outdoor fiascoes.” SunsetMagazine
Thanks to all of you who shared your experiences and dreams with us.
@sunsetmag
Please tag us on Instagram, and see you in the woods! on Instagram
THOMAS J. STORY (2)

@SunsetMag
PEGGY NORTHROP, EDITOR-IN- CHIEF on Twitter
@Peggy_Sunset | readerletters@sunset.com
pinterest.com/
SunsetMag

8 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
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It’s where you’ll perform epic shower concerts.
It’s where you’ll tell her she’s gonna be a sister.
It’s where you’ll long to be when you’re anywhere else.

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at zillow.com or on our family of apps.

© 2015 Zillow, Inc. All rights reserved.

 BEST OF THE

WEST
W H AT W E’ R E T R AC K I N G T H I S M O N T H

MAKE
OURS BEST
COMEBACK

RARE
After a slow slide into medioc-
rity, Cassell’s Hamburgers—
once, as our own Peter Fish
will attest, the gold standard of
postwar L.A. burgers—closed
its Koreatown doors in 2012.
But now Cassell’s is back, a few
blocks away, on the ground
floor of the also-reinvented Ho-
tel Normandie. The new own-
ers are channeling the spirit of
Al Cassell: grinding the Colora-
do Angus beef fresh, broiling
the patties on the famed “cross-
fire broiler,” and making all the
sides and condiments in-house,
just like Al did. Also like Al,
they’re refusing to sell french
fries. His famous potato salad
will just have to do. $; 3600 W.
Sixth St.; cassellshamburgers.com.

Urban
BEST Edgy and modern on the surface, traditional and even a smidge romantic underneath—this holds
NEW-MEETS- true for both the fancy new Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West and the great state of
OLD Arizona itself. Within the museum’s austere walls, you’ll find two floors’ worth of art and artifacts
from the Old West. Think hand-tooled saddles and silver spurs, nickel-plated bits and ivory-handled

cowboys six-shooters, plus, of course, the obligatory—and much beloved—Frederic Remington and Charles
M. Russell bronzes. Yes, there’s art from today hanging in the galleries too, but nothing that would
scare the horses. $13; scottsdalemuseumwest.org.

Photograph by LISA CORSON SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 11

 BEST DAYS
TO
REMEMBER

1862
M AY 5
A ragtag Mexican
army defeats the
French in the Battle
of Puebla. And that’s
why we celebrate
Cinco de Mayo.
¡Olé!

1847
M AY 8
During the Mormon
migration from Mis-
souri to Utah, Wil-
liam Clayton invents
the odometer—he
calls the wooden
device he straps
to his wagon a
“roadometer.”
2015
M AY 17
The 104th Bay to
Breakers costume-
party-disguised-as-
footrace is run in San
Francisco.
Bake sale
The Burbank-based company Modern Bite is
decorating cookies in honor of the historic
Adamson House, in Malibu Lagoon State
Beach. Iced with edible inks, the sugar cookies
mimic Malibu Potteries tiles; a slice of the pro-
ceeds will help preserve the 1929 structure,
onetime home of the tile company’s founder,
BEST FUND-
RAISER May Rindge. It’s such a good cause, you proba-
bly should order a second box. And maybe
a third. $32/box of 8; modernbite.com.
PAGE BEST
ONE-STOP
SHOP

2010 TURNERS Last May

M AY 22
Harvey Milk Day is
celebrated in Califor-
nia. (The first openly
gay officeholder was
born on this day
in 1930.)
1937
M AY 2 7
The Golden Gate
Bridge opens to the
public. The famous
“International
Orange” paint was
BEST saw the
SPECIALS OF inaugural
THE DAY
California
Bookstore
Day. This year, on May 2,
the celebration of the
indie bookstore goes na-
tional with Independent
Bookstore Day—and such
institutions as Book Soup
(L.A.) and The King’s
English Bookshop (Salt
Lake City) hosting read-
ings, throwing parties, and
selling books and gifts
made especially for (and
only for) that day. Items

SENSE OF PLACE
originally meant to from West Coast lit stars
be just a primer.
FROM TOP: JEFFERY CROSS, ERIN FEINBLATT

are front and center: Ore-

1902
MAY 2 8
Owen Wister pub-
lishes his novel The
Virginian, which is
set in Wyoming and
considered the first
true western.
gon blogger Allie Brosh
signed a poster for her
cult hit, Hyperbole and a
Half, and San Francisco’s
3 Fish Studios created a
Literary Map of the Seas
(complete with the Island
of the Blue Dolphins). So,
next year … the world?
cabookstoreday.com.
Santa Barbara’s Funk Zone just got a bit less funky—but we mean that as
a compliment. The Santa Barbara Wine Collective tasting room opened
this winter, bringing together some of Santa Barbara County’s bluest-chip
wineries and vintners, including Bryan Babcock, Qupé, Rajat Parr, Fess
Parker Winery, and Matt Dees. Now you can taste, in one place, the full
range of the region’s terroir. Credit restaurateur Doug Washington—you
may know him from such San Francisco stalwarts as Town Hall—with the
neo-industrial design. $15/winery flight; santabarbarawinecollective.com.

12 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
We make plans in advance. We attempt to orchestrate details.
That’s not how this world works. Beauty lies in the unexpected.
Awe strikes randomly. We won’t know when. All we know is where.
Get the guide at Colorado.com
 INTO
THE BEST
FINDS

WOODS
WE GO
And when we do,
we’ll be bringing
along these fresh
takes on the same old
camping staples.
1. It’s a sleeping bag! It’s a hammock! It’s
both! Invented by a couple in Boise who
make it out of parachute nylon, the Bison
Bag is the world’s first combination sleep-
ing bag/hammock. $130; boisemade.com.

2. The Bay Area–based Shelter Co. is now 1

COUNTERCLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM RIGHT: JEFFERY CROSS, MEL BARLOW, THOMAS J. STORY, JEFFERY CROSS
selling versions of the canvas tents it uses 2
on its outfitted trips. The Meriwether sleeps
four adults and is the only canvas tent on
the market that exceeds the National Fire
Protection Association Code’s flame-
resistance standards. Plus, it looks great.
$1,250; shelter-co.com/supply. 3

3. Along with the classic white enamel-

ware we used in Camp Sunset (see page
66), San Francisco’s Crow Canyon Home
offers a quirkier splatter pattern.
From $8; roveandswig.com.

4. Made in Utah, these petite titanium

Emberlit FireAnt stoves fold down flat—you
4
can store one in a pouch the size of a pass-
port. They burn solid fuel, spirits, and
(handy for the backpacker who’s truly trav-
eling light) wood. $70; emberlit.com. 5
5. Don’t mistake this little candle, hand-
made in Portland, for a real campfire—it’s
just about 5 inches high. Still, we can’t think
of a better moodsetter for our camp-
ground’s picnic table. $18; revolution
designhouse.com.

14 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 Stories worth sharing rarely begin with
“So … we decided to stay in.”

Introducing the New Volvo V60 Cross Country. W

All-W

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SAFE PASSAGES BEST
IDEA TO
SPREAD

Road-trip season is here, and when minivans and RVs meet clueless young animals on rural roads,
BEST
CRAFTS

things don’t end happily. Over the last decade, Montana’s Department of Transportation, the Confed-
erated Salish and Kootenai Tribes, and the feds have come up with a solution for reducing the deadly
A STITCH
toll. Now, a 56-mile stretch of U.S. 93 has 41 wildlife crossing structures, some tunneling under the IN TIME
tarmac, others flying grassily overhead, all on popular critter-commute routes. And they’re being The 10th biannual Albu-
used: Cameras are capturing bears, elk, even mountain lions sauntering through the structures. (See querque Fiber Arts Fiesta
for yourself at goo.gl/UJoXsr.) Seems like this is an idea worth adopting all over the West. marks the first stop of the
worldwide Modern Quilts
tour, which features 20
quilts selected at Febru-

Choose BEST IDEA

TO STEAL INSTA-SECTIONAL
Sprinkled among the cheery
ary’s QuiltCon 2015 in
Austin. If you’re picturing
your own images in Beach House Hap-
py, the new book from Anto-
patchwork from Little
House on the Prairie re-
adventure nia van der Meer, editor-in-
chief of our sister magazine runs, all sprigged muslin
Looking to help Coastal Living, you’ll find clev- and sedate pastels ... well,
BEST Californians er decorating tips. (Usually let this vibrant beauty (For
LEAP and visitors in the photos of the Western
FORWARD Tanya by Emily and Miriam
actually use the houses, of course. Partisan?
state’s public Us? Never!) One idea, in fact, Coffey) banish that image.
lands, the Parks Forward appears twice, so it’s obvious- Like what you see? Mark
Commission let Stamen, the ly a thing: pushing two twin
innovative Bay Area design beds together to create a DIY your calendar for next

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: AUDREY HALL, LAUREN HUNT, BARBARA KRAFT

studio, loose on its data.
The result: the new CaliParks
browser-based app, which
includes every single park in
the Golden State, from nation-
al forests to your own town
square (11,826 parks in all),
and sorts the database by ac-
tivity and facility. Are there
grills? Can you ride a moun-
tain bike on the trails? Is there
a marina? What about a beach?
The app answers all these
questions and more. Plus it
includes Flickr and Instagram
feeds for each park, so you can
window-shop, virtually, for
your next outing. caliparks.org.
sectional. Add big pillows and year’s QuiltCon, which
cushions, as the owners of this will be held in Pasadena.
getaway in California’s Stin-
son Beach did, and you’re set. $5 ; May 21–23;
$40; oxmoorhouse.com. fiberartsfiesta.org.
BEST
NOT-JUST- Up, up, and away
FOR- How many Angelenos get around to visiting the Getty Villa? How many San Franciscans
TOURISTS
never make it to Alcatraz? Taken for granted, maybe, or perceived to be a bit too touristy,
treasures like these can hide in plain sight. Our recommendation for this month: The Muse-
um of Flight in Seattle. Along with all the hands-on control-tower demos and dogfight simulators that any
gadget-happy kid, or adult, would love, the museum’s collection of more than 160 planes and spacecraft
includes the only Concorde on the West Coast—and yes, you can climb aboard and pretend to be Becks
and Posh, or Liz Taylor, or Mick and the lads. $20; museumofflight.org.

16 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
Buying berries from the commodity market is the unreliable way.
Choosing the highest quality berries is the right way.

Join the Co-Op at Tillamook.com

 Travel

ASK A
LO C A L

THE REAL
PIONEER SQUARE
Seattle’s oldest neighborhood has
some of its newest hits—
restaurants, galleries,
and indie
shops.
Walk
this way
FIRST AVENUE
AT YESLER WAY
JOSÉ MANDOJANA

SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 19
Travel

ASK
A LOC A L

The square has more than

history. Two locals lead
the way to Seattle’s best eats,
drinks, and art, plus some
underground classics. JESSIE POOLE GERALD WU
AS TOLD TO JESS CHAMBERLAIN Co-owner, E. Smith Mercantile Owner, Gerald Wu Hair Design
(esmithmercantile.com) (geraldwuhairdesign.com)

WEEKEND BRUNCH green oasis in the take the boat to

middle of Seattle. Bainbridge Island.
The London
I eat my lunch It’s just 35 minutes,
Plane
there. I like how the and you get some
$$; 300 Occidental
Ave. S.; thelondon waterfall drowns wind in your hair.
planeseattle.com. out the sound of Go down to the
GERALD WU Right the city. There are Harbour Public
in the middle of Pio- trees and ferns House and order
neer Square, it’s a planted around the what might be the
restaurant that also tables, which give best fish and chips
sells fresh flowers. it a natural feel, on the planet—made
I go for the poached and there’s also a with fresh cod in the
big canopy so you most perfect beer
can stay dry on batter. There aren’t
a rainy day. many better ways
to spend a day.
Bainbridge
Island Ferry TOP LUNCH SPOT Il Corvo
$8 round-trip; 801
Alaskan Way, Pier 52; Il Corvo
wsdot.wa.gov/ferries. $; 217 James St.;
make the most styles. Plus they
JESSIE POOLE Many ilcorvopasta.com. amazing handmade cure all their own
people don’t know JP People are pasta—three kinds meats. The pro-
that the ferry’s afraid of the line, daily, all fresh. And sciutto with pickled
Seattle Terminal but it really takes they don’t repeat celery plate is my
eggs, housemade
is one block away. only 15 minutes. dishes very often, favorite.
sourdough, and
mimosas. It looks My favorite thing By the time you get so if you come a lot,
BEST INDIE SHOPS
out at Occidental to do on a Sunday to the front, a seat you have a chance

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SUZI PRATT, LAUREN MAX, JOSÉ MANDOJANA (3)
Park. There’s no car is get up early and opens up. They to try a variety of The Belfry
access on that strip, 309A Third Ave. S.;
thebelfryoddities.com.
and it’s just beauti- Bainbridge Island Ferry
JP It’s run by
ful; you’ll see people
husband-wife team
getting wedding
Christian and Jes-
photos taken there.
sica Harding, who
specialize in vintage
TAKE ME OUTDOORS
taxidermy. Crazy
Waterfall stuff too. Last week,
Garden Park they took me in the
219 Second Ave. S. back and showed
GW Great place me a mongoose
to chill. It’s a tiny being choked by

20 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 J O Y P AY S D I V I D E N D S , S O L E T ’ S invest I N I T W I T H
enthusiasm. A N S W E R T H E C A L L AT S A N D I E G O . O R G / L U X U R Y
Travel

this tiny shop feels and talks about Damn the the owner, is defi-
like walking back negative space. The Weather nitely one of a kind.
into the ’90s. It’s a Thursdays are so He’s always wear-
116 First Ave. S.;
great place to snag popular that the damntheweather.com. ing a navy beret and
that leather coat or city has partnered GW Jay Kuehner vintage boots with
cowboy boots you is one of the most his jeans stuffed in.
with garages
didn’t know you beloved bartenders He’s such a char-
to provide free
in the city. He acter, and his door
needed. parking that night.
usually works is always open. He
a cobra. They’ve got COCKTAIL TIME Wednesday and loves to talk about
SHOW ME ART
baby bears, goats. Thursday, so that’s books. GW Every-
The space isn’t very Roq La Rue E. Smith one knows Joel.
the best time to
kid-friendly, but Gallery Mercantile He’s been restoring
go. Sit at the bar,
children love it. 532 First Ave. S.; 208 First Ave S.;
esmithmercantile.com. order the beef
GW I think of it as
roqlarue.com.
GW A tiny hidden
heart tartare with
GW I’m a regular
a gift shop. You see chicken-fat fries,
at Roq La Rue. gem tucked in the
everything from and watch him
They showcase back of this clothing
antlers to replica work his magic.
art with a flair for and apothecary
bird skulls to jew- JP Don’t even look
elry made from the fantastical. It’s shop. The drinks
at the menu; just
animal teeth. Very run by owner and are off the beaten
tell him what you
original stuff. curator Kirsten path, with delicate
like. Last week, he
Anderson, who’s flavors. I’m a fan
did some egg white
Agate associated with of the Opal, made and assembling
beet juice thing,
Designs the pop surrealist with gin, curaçao, books for many
with the root of the
120 First Ave. S.; movement. You’ll and absinthe. It’s years. And his un-
beet hanging out. It
agatedesigns.com. find many works enough to compel derground studio
was incredible.
GW It’s all about from emerging you to purchase a is like a museum.
crystal energy, man! artists, and there’s pair of raw-denim LOCAL INSTITUTION Leather hides hang
And this place is always something jeans or a bone- from the ceilings;
full of it. But it’s beautiful, dark, and handled scrimshaw
Ars Obscura
there are binding
not modern or intriguing. pocketknife
Bookbinding
tools everywhere.
preciously curated. 214 First Ave. S.;
necklace. But you arsobscurabook It feels like you’re
They have bins of First won’t regret it in binding.com. going back in time
quartz and petrified Thursday the morning. JP Joel Radcliffe, 100 years.
wood for under 10 Art Walk
bucks, but they also May 7; pioneersquare.
have huge gorgeous org/first-thursday-art-
geodes. Come here walk.
to pimp out your JP Seattle is home

crystal collection. to the first art

walk on the West
Coast. Every first
Bon Voyage
Thursday, galleries,
Vintage
museums, and
110 S. Washington St.;
(206) 412-7669. studios open their
GW Remember doors to show off
when Seattle style new exhibitions;
TOP RIGHT: ELEANOR LONARDO

was associated with the neighborhood

grunge and flannel turns into a giant
instead of Helly party. Everyone
Hansen sports- drinks Champagne,
wear? Ducking into nibbles cheese, E. Smith Mercantile

22 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 WELCOME
HOME

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Travel

D I S C OV E R

1. Petco Park—home to
the San Diego Padres— 2
was a game changer
for the East Village.
2. Cuban-influenced
bar Fairweather.
3. Rare Form’s take
on the New York–style
pastrami sandwich.
4. Harbor Drive Pedes-
trian Bridge provides
easy access to Petco
Park. 5. Bean Bar.

3 4 5

A PERFECT DAY IN

SAN DIEGO’S EAST VILLAGE

There’s something for everyone—baseball fans, beer lovers,
and bibliophiles—in this thriving downtown hood. By Archana Ram

All-American fun
The East Village owes much of
its revitalization to Petco Park.
The Padres’ home stadium
opened in 2004, but in the past
few years, it has attracted hot
new restaurants—not only in
the surrounding area, but inside
it as well. Cruising the conces-
sion stands is akin to a citywide
food crawl. Cheer on slugger
Matt Kemp and the home team,
and sample Hodad’s burgers,
Lucha Libre tacos, Phil’s BBQ,
and Baked Bear ice cream sand-
wiches. Stone Brewing Co. and
Ballast Point’s Draft taproom
provide the requisite game-day
beer. 100 Park Blvd.; padres.mlb.
com/sd/ballpark.
Unexpected venues
Since its relocation to the East
Village in 2013, The San Diego
Central Library has amassed
a diverse résumé that goes way
beyond the book. The nine-
story design gem, capped by
an intricate latticework dome
and rooftop gardens, includes
an art gallery and well-curated
gift shop and offers free arts

24 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T Photographs by D AV E L A U R I D S E N
 Plant some freshness
of your own. The freshest ingredients
GVIEXIXLIFIWX¾EZSVW8LEX´W[L]XLI'EPMJSVRMEKVS[R

XSQEXSIWMRSYVWEPWEKSJVSQ½IPHXSNEVMRLSYVW

2S[XLEXMX´WTPERXMRKWIEWSR[I´HPMOIXSLIPT]SYKVS[

WSQIXLMRKSJ]SYVS[R*MRHMRWTMVEXMSRERHXMTWXSKIX

WXEVXIHSRPMRIEX0E:MGXSVMEGSQ*VIWLSV*VIWL*SV1I
©
2015 MegaMex Foods, LLC
Travel
163
San Diego
International
Airport Balboa
Park
5
EAST
VILLAGE
Ha
rbo
rD
r.
GETTING HERE
The East Village is 4 miles southeast
of San Diego International Airport
and 1 mile from the Gaslamp
Quarter, just off I-5.
and crafts classes and concerts.
Two blocks down, a vacant lot
was transformed last year into
the Quartyard, an urban park
composed of a beer garden,
coffee shop, dog park, night
markets, and more. Four blocks
away, Silo in Makers Quarter,
a 25,000-square-foot commu-
nity event space, hosts every-
thing from craft-beer tastings
to plays. Library: 330 Park Blvd.;
sandiegolibrary.org. Quartyard:
1102 Market St.; quartyardsd.
com. Silo: 753 15th St.; makers
quarter.com.
SoCal’s jolt
Notoriously laid-back San Diego
is finally embracing the arti-
sanal coffee trend, and two
East Village shops are at the
center of the buzz. Bean Bar
is committed to educating
customers, and a seat at the
cafe’s slow bar is your ticket to
learning about the pour process
firsthand from a barista. Local
THE LOCAL LOWDOWN
“The East Village has become a creative
hub for makers and doers. They’re trying
to make it a cultural center.”
—DAVID LOEWENSTEIN, COO OF DE SIGN AND
DEVELOPMENT FIRM RAD LAB
26 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
favorite Coffee & Tea Col-
lective, meanwhile, recently
joined forces with trendy Juice
Saves to champion coffee, cold-
pressed juice, and healthy eats
in one shared space. Claim a
seat at the natural-wood table
with your laptop (there’s free
Wi-Fi) and you can comfort-
ably cruise through breakfast,
snack, and lunch time. Bean
Bar: 1068 K St.; sdbeanbar.com.
Coffee & Tea and Juice Saves:
631 Ninth Ave.; coffeeandtea
collective.com; godblessjuice.com.
Pasta and pastrami 6
Last year, three new eateries
turned the East Village into
a bona fide dining destination.
The always packed Bottega
Americano specializes in
traditional Italian fare, such as
velvety soft gnocchi, which you
can enjoy at one of the marble-
topped tables lit by copper pen-
dant lamps. Nearby, Rare Form
puts a gourmet spin on deli 7 8
sandwiches, with hefty special-
ties like Rare Form 44, an ode
to the New York–style pastrami 6. The San Diego Central
sandwich, on your choice of Library. 7. Flower power:
bread or waffles. In a sprawling a Pololu Punch cocktail, at
Fairweather. 8. Rare Form is
indoor-outdoor space, Halcyon outfitted like a collegiate
and Stella Public House com- library, with banker’s
bine multiple foodie delights lamps dotting each table.
9. A sunny reading space in
under one roof. The former the Central Library.
focuses on coffee, cocktails, and
9
tableside-roasted s’mores; the
latter features a “farm-to-pizza”
menu and craft beers. Bottega: 793 J St.; godblessrareform.com. cocktails) along with games of
$$$; 1195 Island Ave.; bottega Halcyon and Stella: $ and $$; cornhole and shuffleboard. If
americano.com. Rare Form: $; 1429 Island; halcyoneastvillage. your tastes lean more cocktail
com; stellapublichousesd.com. than craft beer, head to Cuban-
influenced Fairweather, a
Suds and spirits rooftop bar overlooking Petco
Housed in the 1894 Wonder Park. The focus is on sunny-
Bread building, Mission weather drinks—margaritas,
MAP: MARGARET SLOAN
Brewery is ground zero for beer mai tais, and mojitos—and
lovers. Retaining much of its top-notch ingredients. Mission
industrial style, the warehouse Brewery: 1441 L St.; mission
has a diverse beer lineup (Bel- brewery.com. Fairweather: 793 J
gians, Germans, IPAs, and beer St.; godblessrareform.com.
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Travel

WA N D E R LUS T

THE
SHOCK
of the
NUEVO
For decades,
Santa Fe has been
the spot to find
world-class
Hispanic and Native
American art. Now,
Laura Fraser
discovers, a new
generation of artists
is adding 21st-
century buzz to the
city’s creative mix.

Navajo artist and

photographer Will Wilson
mixes the 19th century
with the 21st in his tintype
portraits of contemporary
Native Americans.

28 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
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Travel
I
I’M SITTING ON A BENCH in the mid-
dle of the Plaza in Santa Fe, having
an argument with my dad. Like so
many people who visit this town,
we’re here to see art, but there’s so
much of it—250 galleries and an
overwhelming number of museums
and handicraft shops—that you
need a strategy. We’re focusing on
Native American art, which eliminates a wide swath of
galleries that could be anywhere else in the world, but
Dad insists on seeing only traditional arts and crafts,
while I’m more interested in contemporary work.
“I don’t like that new stuff,” Dad says—an opinion of
his that blankets all of modern art, not just Native
American. “It’s crazy techniques, done by people with
split personalities, and it just doesn’t do anything for
30 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ SUNSET
me.” I roll my eyes. He
Ehren Kee gestures toward the Na-
Natay’s vajo and Pueblo arti-
mixed media
Cultural Prop- sans sitting under the
erty For Sale. porticoes of the Palace
of the Governors, sell-
ing jewelry and baskets, as they have for
more than a century. “The most beautiful
craftsmanship is right there,” he says. “Each
artist puts his individual stamp on a long
historical tradition.”
My dad is 86, so I’m not about to change
his mind. But I wonder, given that he’s not
exactly open-minded on the topic of art in
general, how he got interested in Native
American art in the first place. When I ask,
he smiles at the memory of how he and my
mother took road trips to New Mexico from
their home in Colorado in the early 1960s.
“We’d detour through reservations and stop
where Indians had little stands by the road,”
he says. “We were fascinated by what they
had to sell.” Their first purchase was a finely
woven wedding basket. Over the years, they
went to Native American flea markets and
art fairs, collecting gleaming black pots, Na-
vajo rugs with diamond eye-dazzler designs,
and sand-cast jewelry. “Every piece brings
back memories,” says my dad, touching his
Zuni inlaid turquoise belt buckle. “We al-
ways met the artist, who’d talk about how
they’d made the piece. We weren’t just tak-
ing home a pot or a piece of jewelry; we were
taking home a story.”
That’s why, long before Santa Fe was a
style, my mother wore chunky turquoise
jewelry, and ours was the only house in the neighborhood with bronze katsina
dancers on the coffee table. They brought us kids with them to Santa Fe a couple
of times, to stroll by the treasures Native Americans were selling on the Plaza,
to eat chiles rellenos and honey-dipped sopaipillas, and to drive on dusty roads to
pueblos where we’d visit Native craftspeople in their own backyards. Like my
parents, I marveled at Native art: the way Navajo rugs captured the Southwest-
ern landscape and flattened it into an abstract tapestry; how the pottery was
perfectly round and smooth, yet made by human hands, without a wheel. But
some of the paintings my parents brought home of Native Americans in their
beaded and feathered glory made me uneasy. They seemed too storybook, given
what little I knew about the grim history of Native Americans, depicting a time
that was easier to romanticize.
“I love the crafts, but I’d like to see art that says something about Indians
today,” I tell my dad. “Indian chiefs on horses are too romantic.” He shrugs.
As a physician, he spent 15 years practicing on a string of Native American
reservations (he can conduct a physical in Navajo), so he’s more familiar
than most with Native American issues and cultures. “I don’t care if they’re
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Travel

romantic,” he says. “I like art that has a respect for their San Ildefonso pueblo, where, in the 1970s, my parents bought a black pot with a
traditions, and for the past.” delicate feather design from Maria Martinez, who became the most famous potter
in the Southwest, with works displayed in many museums; she changed Native
GENERATIONS OF BEAUTY American pottery from a curio to an art form. Inside, Barbara Gonzalez, Marti-
Over the next couple of days, we adhere to my dad’s nez’s great-granddaughter, also a potter, explains how the family makes pottery
traditional itinerary. Our first stop is near the Plaza: from earth dug nearby, shaping it by hand on the bowl of a gourd bottom, paint-
Rainbow Man, a gallery of fine Native American jew- ing a design with a yucca brush, firing it in a mound outdoors, and polishing it.
elry and folk art that has been operating since 1945. Its Gonzalez shows us Martinez’s pots, and her own, some of which have a more
back-alley room, Dad remarks, was the secret process- contemporary look.
ing center for people working on the Manhattan Proj-
ect in nearby Los Alamos. Today, the room’s walls
are crowded with weavings from Chimayó and prints
by Edward S. Curtis, who photographed the tribes
west of the Mississippi from 1898 to 1928. These are
SEEING AND BUYING SANTA FE ART
iconic pictures of Native Americans, in their tradi-
tional headdresses, moccasins, and braids. Dad ad- A GREAT PLEASURE of a Santa Fe trip is re- sunbeamsan
turning home with a Zuni bracelet or Santa ildefonso.com.
mires the prints and chats with the owner about which Clara pottery. Yet art shoppers are wisely
of the rugs on the wall were old trade blankets and wary. How can you tell if that thunderbird WINDSOR BETTS
which were Chimayó, from weavers of Hispanic ori- bolo is authentic? (Santa Fe historian Joel ARTS BROKERAGE
Stein estimates that 60 percent of the jewel- HOUSE 143 Lincoln
gin. He’s in his element. Ave.; windsorbetts.
ry sold in town is made in Southeast Asia.)
The following day, we venture out of town to the The best way to guarantee your pur- com.
small villages that lie north of Santa Fe. On the way, chase’s value is to buy only at stores with
I ask how Santa Fe became such an artistic hot spot, established reputations (look for the South- MUSEUMS
west Indian Arts Association symbol);
and Dad gives me a quick history review. New Mexican INDIAN ARTS
museum shops; and vetted, juried exhibi- RESEARCH CENTER
pueblo tribes—Acoma, Santa Clara, Zia, and many tions. Avoid outlets offering “50 percent Tours are offered
others—have made baskets, pottery, and other domes- off.” A “certificate of authenticity” may be at 2 p.m. Fridays
tic crafts since perhaps 1200, each with its own tradi- faked. And beware the term “Indian craft- only and must be
ed,” which can signify factory-made goods. reserved. From $15;
tional motifs. In 1610, Spanish colonists settled Santa
The more trustworthy term is “Indian 650 Garcia St.;
Fe, bringing their sheep, weavings, and silversmiths handmade.” sarweb.org/?iarc.
up from Mexico, influencing the local tribes. Then Here’s our short list of Santa Fe art
came the Americans: In the 1820s, Santa Fe became a venues for admiring and purchasing work. MUSEUM OF CON-
TEMPORARY NATIVE
flourishing trading center, since it sat at the crossroads ARTS $10; 108 Ca-
of the old El Camino trail to Mexico City, and the new thedral Place; iaia.
Santa Fe Trail, which was bringing white settlers west GALLERIE S are also represented edu/museum.
from Missouri. In the 1880s, an entrepreneur named & MARKETS in the mix of pottery
MUSEUM OF INDIAN
BLUE RAIN GALLERY and jewelry. Artists
Fred Harvey set up hotels along the rail lines in the set prices—from under ARTS AND CULTURE
Represents contem- Classic and contem-
Southwest, including the Alvarado Hotel in Albuquer- porary Native artists. $50 to hundreds
of dollars—and bar- porary Southwestern
que, which had a salesroom for Native American 130 Lincoln Ave.; paintings, pottery,
blueraingallery.com. gaining is discour-
handicrafts. jewelry, basketry,
aged. nmhistory
After the crafts came the art: Anglo artists arrived in and weaving. From
CENTINELA museum.org. $6; 710 Camino
Taos and Santa Fe in the early 1900s, with paints that TRADITIONAL ARTS Lejo; indianartsand
946 State 76, RAINBOW MAN
Native artists began to use, and ever since, artists and culture.org.
Chimayó; chimayo 107 E. Palace Ave.;
craftspeople from all over the world have flocked to the rainbowman.com.
weavers.com. WHEELWRIGHT MU-
Southwest. Today, 2.6 percent of all workers in Santa Fe SEUM OF THE AMERI-
are in the art business—one of three top art markets in PORTAL NATIVE SANTA FE CAN INDIAN Focus is
AMERICAN ARTI- INDIAN MARKET on solo shows by liv-
the country, alongside New York and Los Angeles— Famous market runs
SANS PROGRAM ing Native American
with a wide mix of styles, quality, and prices. At the Palace of the on the Plaza every artists. The Case Trad-
When we arrive at Chimayó, we stop in to watch Governors on the year on the third ing Post museum shop
Plaza, the daily weekend of August. is good. Become a
seventh-generation weavers at an adobe house where
Museum of New More than 1,000 member and receive
skeins of indigo-dyed wool are drying outside. Lisa Tru- Mexico–sponsored artists display juried substantial discounts.
jillo, weaving a striped Rio Grande rug, shows us the show supports ar- work. swaia.org. $5; 704 Camino
old looms, still in use, and traditional patterns with tisans from all 19 Lejo; wheelwright.
pueblos. Apache SUNBEAM GALLERY org. —Laura Fraser &
some updated designs. Then we visit potters in the and Navajo tribes San Ildefonso Pueblo; Sharon Niederman

32 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ SUNSET
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Travel
“You do a clay pot in the traditional style, but you do
it your own way too,” she says. “That’s being an artist.”
“Art is always evolving,” I say, glancing at my dad.
FINDING THE NEW FACE OF SANTA FE ART
Now it’s my turn. Having spent the first half of our tual media, sculptures—it’s more of a statement of what’s happening now.”
Santa Fe trip focusing on the traditional arts Dad loves, Many Native artists, Phillips adds, focus on issues that their communities face:
we are—or at least I am—going to visit galleries and mu- the damage done by a history of colonization, the clash of traditional culture
seums that represent the new face of Southwestern art.
This is why I’m talking to Patsy Phillips, director of the some abstract landscapes by Yaqui artist Mario Martinez and eerie transforma-
“We still have the problem that people
want to romanticize Indians—they want to
see what we call ‘beads and feathers.’ ”
— PAT SY P H I L L I P S , D I R E C T O R , M U S E U M O F C O N T E M P O R A RY NAT I V E A R T S
34 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ SUNSET
Institute of American Indian Arts’ Museum of Contemporary Native Arts, just off
the Plaza. IAIA has been a breeding ground for Native art for the past 50 years.
“We still have the problem that people want to romanticize Indians—they
want to see what we call ‘beads and feathers,’ ” Phillips, a Cherokee, tells me. I
nod, thinking of my dad. “Native artists today are creating installations, concep-
and the modern world. After we talk, I walk through the exhibits, including
tion masks on hand-stretched drumskins by
Alaskan artist Da-ka-xeen Mehner.
Then I pick up Dad and take him to Wind-
sor Betts Arts Brokerage House, which has a
greatest-hits collection of contemporary and
traditional Native art. Dad gravitates toward
the older landscapes. I ask him to consider
some of the contemporary pieces more
closely, so he has a long look around. “I don’t
like paintings that focus on the negative,” he
says. “The art that shows everything Native
Americans have had to fight against—the
white man, alcoholism, the demands of
living—doesn’t improve a healthy under-
standing of Indian philosophy or art, which
I’ve come to appreciate more and more.”
Next comes a surprise, a treasure that
even my father, with all his visits to Santa Fe,
has never seen: the Indian Arts Research
Center, which houses more than 12,000
pieces of Native pottery, jewelry, textiles,
sculpture, and basketry. We’d been told
about it by Joe Schepps, owner of the Inn on
the Alameda, where we were staying (and
which displays its own collection of New
Mexican art). He explained that the center’s
collection is intended for researchers and to
inspire contemporary artists.
When we walk into the vault, we gasp at
the rows and rows of pots before us, grouped
by pueblo, representing centuries of artistry.
“It’s emotional, isn’t it?” says Elysia Poon,
the program coordinator. “Amazing,” says
my dad. Poon shows us centuries-old de-
signs still used in Native art today.
We meet one of those artists a couple of
hours later, Navajo artist Ehren Kee Natay, a
fellow at the center. “I draw my influences
from the tradition-
al side and from
Will Wilson’s pop culture,” he
AIR “Weaving
the Sacred says. Then he pulls
Mountains—East.” out paintings with
Travel

elements of dream imagery done in spray paint. This is
an artist who isn’t frozen in time, but galloping toward
the future.
The last stop on our art tour is the Wheelright Muse-
um of the American Indian, on Museum Hill, southeast
of downtown. There is only one exhibit there, by Will
Wilson, a Navajo photographer and artist, and it is ex-
traordinary. Among his projects are photographs, Criti-
cal Indigenous Photographic Exchange, some of which are
portraits of contemporary Native Americans, created
with a historic process similar to Edward S. Curtis’s.
Wilson says he is impatient with the way, for many
people, “Native people remain frozen in time in Curtis’s
photos.” He’s playing off the notion of the “authentic
Native American,” presenting his colleagues, family,
and friends as they are—in their own clothes, some-
times holding objects that are meaningful to them. But
however much the photos challenge our notions of what “authentic” means,
they are mesmerizingly beautiful. Another piece, his rendition of his grand-
mother’s woven eye-dazzler rug, done in square glass beads that resemble
computer pixels with a QR code woven in to scan a video, is another shimmer-
ing example of a traditional art form brought up-to-date.
I show Wilson’s art to Dad. He’s fascinated with the tintype-style digital prints,
and glad to see they are respectful images of contemporary Americans. He ad-
mires the beaded eye-dazzler rug, made of 76,050 painstakingly woven beads. He
has no idea what a QR code is or that you can scan it to see another video about the
rug. He doesn’t care that the piece was created on custom computer software.
“Wow,” he says. “Gorgeous. Just look at that craftsmanship.”
“But it’s contemporary, Pops,” I say. “Crazy technique.”
He shakes his head like I just don’t get it. “It’s traditional,” he says. “It’s this
Navajo artist’s individual take on everything that has come before him.” I glance
at my weathered father and realize we actually aren’t so far apart in how we
look at art. After a few days in Santa Fe, we’ve both come to love the old and the
traditional, and the young and the new.

SANTA FE’S SISTERS IN ART

This month, Santa Fe’s Museum of Indian Arts and Culture is desig-
nating Keri Ataumbi and Teri Greeves Living Treasures. For the two
sisters, the path to treasurehood began early: From the time they
were born, 18 months apart, on Wyoming’s Wind River Reserva-
tion, they were surrounded by art. Quite literally: Each came home
from the hospital in the same wooden cradleboard, built by their fa-
ther, an Italian American sculptor, and beaded by a Shoshone
friend of their mother’s (who ran the local trading post and is herself
a member of Oklahoma’s Kiowa tribe). The subsequent 40-odd
years have seen a stint at the Rhode Island School of Design for
Keri, who makes sculptural metal jewelry (like this bracelet, near smile on their face. Because of You both wound up in Santa
right), and a best-in-show award for Teri’s avant-garde beadwork that, I can talk about things that Fe. What is it about this place?
(like the boots, far right) at the Santa Fe Indian Market. “That’s the might be difficult to talk about: Greeves: It’s not just the beauty
granddaddy of all Indian art fairs—our Venice Biennale,” she says. genocide, casino money ... they of the land. It’s also the people.
We checked in with the sisters a few weeks before the ceremony, understand a little bit more with- I’ve never seen a small town as
which will anchor the Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival at the out feeling threatened. diverse as this place is. My son’s
Santa Fe Community Center. $10; May 22–24; nativetreasures. best friend is Egyptian. Ataum-
org. —Interview by Christine Ryan You went to the University of bi: It also has that cosmopolitan
California, Santa Cruz, right? feeling to it—you don’t have to
What brought you there? drive an hour and a half to get yo-
Greeves: I guess I’ll just say it— gurt. But you’re just 30 minutes
How did this all begin? to the side. She wanted to show the Grateful Dead. I followed the away from the nearest pueblo.
Ataumbi: I was fascinated with beadwork in a proper setting, with Dead around, and I landed in
my dad’s process. He does that the respect it was due. She had Santa Cruz. I had a really good How does it feel to be a
Western genre stuff, a lot of bronz- an eclectic selection, from as far education there. living treasure?
es, so he had a mold-making north as Canada. By the time I Greeves: I didn’t know I was
room, a wood shop, a metal shop, was 8, I wanted to know how to But you, Keri, headed in the that old! Ataumbi: My hair is
and a forge room. All of which make all those beautiful things. other direction? turning gray, I’m a living trea-
was influential to me. I want my Ataumbi: I went east because I sure ... [laughs] I should have a
pieces to hold their own as little Why sew beads onto sneakers? thought it was so exotic. I’d visit- walker. No, it’s a huge honor. And
sculptures. Greeves: My mother Greeves: In college, when I start- ed Boston when I was 12 or 13. both of us being artists—different
had set up her trading post as a ed beading tennis shoes, I real- Because I was from the res, being kinds, but working in the same
gallery. That was unusual then— ized I could tell a story with them. of mixed blood seemed so famil- contemporary Native art realm—
trading posts sold canned and dry They’re very approachable— iar. In Boston, it seemed like it’s just really nice to be able to
goods, and had the Indian stuff off people walk up to them with a everyone was Anglo! share that with my sister.

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 Home & Garden

BE FORE &
AFTER

FRONT YARD
FACELIFTS
Still have a water-guzzling lawn?
These gardens prove you can
have splendor without
the grass. Amazing
aloe
OUR FAVORITE SPIRALING
SUCCULENT
p. 41
THOMAS J. STORY

By J O H A N N A S I LV E R SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 39
Home & Garden

THE ZEN RETREAT

For years, Jody and Michael Stauffer’s front yard in Palo Alto,
California, was so unremarkable, they occasionally drove past their
own home. The couple asked landscape designer Chris Jacobson of
GardenArt Group (gardenartgroup.com) to tear out their mossy grass
and privacy hedge, then give their yard a new identity.

THE INSPIR ATION

Jacobson’s goal was

to create a front yard
that said neither “stay
out,” nor “come right
in,” he explains. Rath-
er, he wanted the
landscape, situated
near downtown, to be
a point of interest for
anyone passing by.

BEFORE

40 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
PLANTINGS
Jacobson kept mostly to a green
palette to create tranquility and
year-round good looks. Clumping
Berkeley sedge dots the yard,
while spiraled Aloe polyphylla
and asparagus ferns line the
drive. Japanese maples and dog-
woods provide softness, shade,
and color.
COURTYARD
Jacobson placed an arbor sup-
ported by concrete columns
7 feet from the house, creating a
courtyard. “It felt like our house
got one room bigger,” says Jody.
The area serves as a “decompres-
sion chamber,” as Jacobson calls
it, where the owners can hear the
rustle of bamboo and the trickle
from a recirculating water feature.
HARDSCAPING
The zigzag path to the house is
based on a tenet of feng shui that
there shouldn’t be direct lines
from the yard to the front door.
The planting beds, mulched with
tumbled glass in shades of blue
and green and buff-colored de-
composed granite, add texture
while keeping the palette serene.
Photographs by
MAINTENANCE
The grasses get cut back every
few years to encourage fresh
growth, and there are some
weeds to pull once in a while.
“But the new front yard is defi-
nitely easier than taking care of
a traditional lawn, especially in
terms of chemicals—we don’t
need any,” Jody says.
T H O M A S J. S T O RY
Home & Garden

SUBURBAN
HOMESTEAD
With its boring lawn, scratchy hedge, and dying
camphor tree, garden designer Marilyn Waterman’s
yard in Menlo Park, California, “had no soul,” she
says. So she created her version of a homestead, mix-
ing edible and ornamental plants. “When I took out
the lawn, the neighbors said, ‘We could never do that.
Our kids need the grass,’ ” says Waterman. “But the
kids always come over here to skip along the paths
or pick apples. There’s way more to do in this yard.”

PLANTINGS

Waterman tucks in edibles every-

where: a ‘Red Fuji’ apple tree (op-
posite page, at right), blueberries,
strawberries, a ‘Meyer’ lemon
tree (opposite, at left), and herbs.
She also loves water-wise succu-
lents and ornamental grasses.

BEFORE FENCING

Where her property meets the

sidewalk (top left), Waterman
built a rustic fence with recycled
THE INSPIR ATION
4-by-4s, wire, and turnbuckles.
Waterman tapped The fence is covered with Niabell
into her roots—she spent
her summers visiting her and ‘Flame Seedless’ grapes as
father’s homestead in her offering to the neighbors.
Colorado—for
her new front yard.
“I wanted it rough, ACCENTS
like a ranch—and not
a fancy ranch,” she says. Even the boulders (left), which
Waterman hauled from a stone
yard, fit her ranch theme—she
BEFORE: LYNN HOLM

imagines rattlesnakes napping on

them. But they’re functional too;
the level surface makes them a
useful resting spot for a person,
pruners, or cup of coffee.

42 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 LOSING
THE LAWN
Inspired to replace
your turf? Although
you may have heard
of smothering your
lawn with plastic
sheets, this process
kills the soil biology
(not a great start
for a new garden).
Instead, try one of
these two methods:
SHEET MULCH IT Put
down 1 or 2 layers of
cardboard; top them
with a 2-inch layer of
compost and a 3-inch
layer of wood chips.
Wait 6 months
(enough time to plan
your new garden!)
for the cardboard to
decompose, then
plant directly into
your new soil mix.
Cardboard sold in
rolls is easy to spread
and useful for large
expanses, but be-
cause it’s thinner, it
punctures easily. Old
boxes, while more
time consuming to
collect, are an ideal
thickness.
WATER SAVINGS DIG IT OUT This is a
Choosing tough, drought-tolerant tedious but effective
plants and installing a drip method, particularly
system cut water use by 30 percent. for pernicious grass-
During the dry summers, es including Bermu-
the garden gets watered three da grass, crabgrass,
times a week for just and kikuyu. Remove
10 minutes, or slightly longer lawn with shovels,
during a heat wave. water the soil, see if
anything resprouts,
and remove again.
Then plant.

DIGITAL
BONUS Find
more detailed
directions at sunset.
com/lawnremoval.

Photographs by R AC H E L W E I L L
Home & Garden

WATER SAVINGS
Post-lawn, this garden
uses a quarter of the
water it did before.

BRIGHT
BIRDING
PARADISE BEFORE

Seasonal fog and a thirsty lawn kept this beach THE INSPIR ATION
cottage in Santa Monica feeling damp and dreary.
“The ’30s cottage reminded
Garden designer Susanne Jett of Jettscapes Land- me of bungalows that I
scape (jettscapes.com) brought in the cheer by lay- had seen on the Australian
ing down a crisp layer of decomposed granite and coast,” says Jett. She com-
bined California natives
planting a showy—yet low-water—border that with plants from Australia,
birds love as much as the homeowner does. which has a similar climate.

PLANTINGS HARDSCAPING VISITORS

Color was the driving force
for Jett’s plant choices, includ-
ing pink-blooming Cistus,
orange Leucospermum, and
purple-flowered Ceanothus.
Shrubs provide privacy from
the street, while shorter pe-
rennial plants and groundcov-
ers make the space feel lush.
A large swath of decomposed
granite stays dry and reflects
light. Jett repositioned the
flagstone pavers that were
already in the yard to create
a new path that meanders
loosely to the front door.
The homeowner chose Cali-
fornia natives such as Ribes
and toyon specifically to
provide berries for birds.
“She has a blackboard at-
tached to the house where
she keeps track of all the
birds, when they come, and
what plants they feed on,”
says Jett.

44 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T Photograph by LISA ROMEREIN

 you wouldn’t trade it for the world. So protect your dog with
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on a year’s
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 It’s time.

Bison near Gardiner, MT, Gateway to Yellowstone National Park | VISITMT.COM

What are you waiting for?
Big. Wild. That’s how many people describe Montana. And it’s
true, as the fourth largest state in the nation with roughly 3.5
million acres of wilderness, there are many miles to consider
when planning a visit. Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks
are destinations every visitor should experience. But Montana’s
towns provide anchors no matter which way you enter the
state. They offer unparalleled access to outdoor adventure,
local cuisine, art, museums, a variety of accommodations and
western hospitality. Seize the many distinctly Montana offerings
along your travel route and you’re sure to create more intimate
memories of this inspiring place.

Continental Divide Trail near Butte, MT Gates of the Mountains boat tour outside of Helena, MT

First, Some History

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Upper Missouri River Breaks National Monument in Central Montana
Biking along the Missouri River near Great Falls, MT
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trails and the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center near the
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If you continue north chances are Glacier National Park
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Medicine Dinosaur Center in Bynum.
Flathead Lake in Western Montana’s Glacier Country
Once you reach Glacier National Park, you might be skeptical that any place
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 Home & Garden

T I PS
FROM OUR

In the Western HOME TEAM

“The floor-to-ceiling tile

trend got its start in
restaurant design.”
JOANNA LINBERG, HOME EDITOR

IDEA WE LOVE

OLD
WINDOWS,
NEW TRICKS
If you have a historical
home, you typically
spend gobs of money
replacing drafty win-
dows. Portlander Sam
Pardue wasn’t happy
with that option, so
FIND OF THE MONTH the serial entrepreneur
created the Indow

Tile goes prefab window insert:

a custom acrylic panel
that fits into an existing
The latest in the seemingly infinite ways the Bay Area’s
Heath Ceramics has of impressing us: its Mural line, which interior window frame.
launched earlier this year. It takes the pain out of pattern, The panels are made in
with tiles mounted in 1- by 4-foot “modules” in eight Portland, and they help

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM: ROMAN BARRETT, THOMAS J. STORY, ROSALIE WILD

already-mixed palettes (Rhythm, above, and range of hues, reduce noise and energy
left). When applied in strips, the variation in the modules loss by about 20 percent
seems to ripple into a 3-D-like cube pattern. And you don’t for a typical Seattle
need to tile a whole wall to enjoy the effect (though, why home, according to the
not?)—a backsplash application still shows the color dif- U.S. Department of En-
ferences and shape. Twill, $60/sq. ft.; heathceramics.com. ergy. That’s comparable
to a high-end replace-
ment window. The only
WESTERN MADE catch: You can’t open
HANG TIME
Jump into the hot seat: the IDV Love Seat, that is. The elegant aluminum swing
your windows unless you
pop out the inserts. But
is part of Venice, California–based designer Ilan Dei’s Cruiser Collection—a nod even that is a cinch.
to the hot-rod culture of the ’50s and ’60s. Available in three colors (marigold,
Pacific, and fog), it hangs from braided nylon rope, and accommodates two. From $20/sq. ft.;
$920; Ilandeivenice.com. indowwindows.com.

50 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
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 Home & Garden

In the Western HOME

EASY UPGRADE

A brand-new site Deck the walls

PHOTOS: (TOP) ERICA GEORGE DINES; (MIDDLE) WENDELL T. WEBBER; (BOTTOM) KRISTINE LARSEN

Getting the look of wallpaper just got easier. These adhesive decals let you create your
curated by the pros own pattern with a selection of basic shapes in a variety of fashion-influenced colors.
and editors of Mur, the Salt Lake City company behind the designs, has an online gallery with pattern
SUNSET, suggestions, but since the decals are removable, there’s no harm in winging it yourself.
THIS OLD HOUSE, And you’re not limited to walls—they’ll stick to any clean, smooth surface (including
REAL SIMPLE, furniture). We’re particularly smitten with the Southwest vibe of the large triangles
shown above. $35/set of 12; wallsbymur.com.
and more!

BOOK REPORT

THE NEW BOHEMIANS

We feature our share of spare modern homes
in Sunset, but that doesn’t mean we can’t ap-
preciate a house filled with mismatched fab-
rics, ad hoc artwork, and aquariums turned
into cactus terrariums (left). Luckily for us,
Los Angeles blogger and stylist Justina
Blakeney (thejungalow.com) has collected the
FROM TOP: ALICIA WADE, DABITO

most inspiring examples of more-is-more

styling in her book, The New Bohemians
Join the party! (Stewart, Tabori & Chang; $35), published

theSnug.com
last month. The 20 homes inside show how
to tell a story with your stuff, mix old and
new, and break the rules of decorating.
© 2015 Time Inc. THE SNUG FIND YOUR PLACE, SUNSET, and
REAL SIMPLE are trademarks of Time Inc. THIS OLD HOUSE is a
trademark of This Old House Ventures Inc. All other referenced 52 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
trademarks are the property of their respective owners.
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Home & Garden

TOMATO TIME!
PLANT
N OW

Tricks to ensure a successful harvest—even with late-start seedlings

SCOTT DAIGRE KNOWS what
it takes to grow the perfect
‘Marmande’
French tomato. He’s been at it since
‘Blue Berries’
Cherry heirloom he was a boy in Louisiana,
6 7 DAY S and later, while working at
7 5 DAY S
Hortus nursery in Pasadena,
where owner Gary Jones
launched a series of week-
end tomato sales. “The roof
‘Sunchocola’ was blowing off in terms
Cherry
of the number of varieties
DAY S T O
RIPEN: 67 being introduced,” Daigre
says. “We went from selling
25 varieties early on to 275
at year 5.”
‘Blue Beauty’ Now the sole producer
Heirloom beefsteak of Tomatomania—a roving
8 5 DAY S
series of tomato sales all
over the country—Daigre
gets the opportunity every
spring to swap planting
tips and stories with fellow
tomato lovers who come
to buy seedlings of classic
and new varieties. He has
gathered these useful bits
and growing strategies into
a new book—Tomatomania
‘Sugar Snack’ (St. Martin’s Griffin, January
Cherry 2015; $25), coauthored with
6 5 DAY S food writer Jenn Garbee.
Here, Daigre shares
some of his best tips. Even
procrastinators who are
just getting seedlings into
the ground as late as July
can succeed, he says. If you
start with the right varieties
‘Orange and growing conditions,
Russian 117’
Oxheart “the plant is practically
8 5 DAY S a weed. But, oh, the re-
wards! If you don’t smash
STACI VALENTINE

‘1884’
Heirloom your face into a fresh-
8 5 DAY S picked tomato, you
miss out.”

54 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T By K AT H L E E N N . B R E N Z E L
ADVERTISEMENT

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HOME MAKEOVERS

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TOMATOES 101
SECRETS OF SUCCESS
1 HEDGE YOUR BETS
Plant a mix of varieties
suitable for your area:
a couple of slicers, a
cherry type, a beefsteak,
and something unusual,
like striped ‘Green
Zebra’ or the new ‘Blue
Beauty’, which is high
in antioxidants. And
choose early-, mid-,
and late-season variet-
ies, indicated on labels
as “days to maturity”
(DTM). That way, says
Daigre, “you’ll get
lucky. If it’s too hot
for some varieties to
set fruit in midsummer,
others will.”
6 WATER, BUT NOT TOO MUCH
Irrigate deeply every 3 or 4 days for the first few weeks.
Once plants start growing, water deeply and less often. Use
soaker hoses, or try this tip Daigre got from a festival attend-
ee: Poke small holes in the bottom of an empty coffee can,
then set the can in a hole in the soil beside the plant. At wa-
tering time, fill the can; water will slowly seep into the soil.
FROM LEFT: STACI VALENTINE (2), SCOTT DAIGRE, SAM HAMANN
2 PLANT DEEP
Tomato plants sprout
additional roots along
buried stems—a good
thing since more roots
are better able to ab-
sorb water and food,
and support strong
growth. Buy seedlings
with sturdy stems and
bright green leaves. Dig
a hole about 15 inches
deep in an area that
gets at least 6 to 8 hours
of sunlight a day. Fill
with amended soil. Snip
off the seedling’s lowest
leaves, then set it into
the hole and fill, burying
the leafless part.
8 TIME YOUR HARVE ST
Tomatoes taste best if
you pick them after they
turn color but just as
they turn soft. Daigre’s
favorite way to savor a
homegrown one? “Pick
a ripe, beautifully
colored, and slightly soft
tomato. Wash it (or not).
Cut it (or not). Salt it
(or not). Eat it. Best
done outdoors.”
Home & Garden
3 OUTSMART NATURE TR
grain
In mild climates, plant a few
seedlings each week for 3 to
6 weeks, so flowers appear
in succession and extend the
harvest. In brutally hot inland
frEE
areas, screen plants during
midday. In cooler climates,
locate tomatoes near a south-
or west-facing wall to reflect
heat onto your plants.
4 MULCH
To retain moisture, Daigre cov-
ers the soil around the plants
with a layer of seedless hay
or straw, about 2 inches
thick. Buy it at a feed store.
5 P OT ’EM UP
Where space is limited,
grow tomatoes in pulp
pots at least 15 inches
wide and deep, which
won’t fry the roots on
hot summer days. Fill
them with premium pot-
ting mix and rich organ-
ic amendments, with
1 plant per container.
Soil warms faster in
pots, so fruit ripens
14 days sooner than
in the ground.
7 DON’ T OVERFEED
If plants overeat, they
produce lush leaves but
few tomatoes. Apply a
balanced organic fertiliz- REAL MEAT, POULTRY OR FISH IS THE
er at planting and again #1 INGREDIENT IN DRY AND PATÉ
when flowers appear.
NO CORN, WHEAT OR SOY
NO POULTRY BY-PRODUCT MEAL
ADDED ARTIFICIAL COLORS,
NO FLAVORS OR PRESERVATIVES
CALLING ALL
TOMATOMANIACS
Daigre will present more Get your trial offer at
tomato wisdom at
Sunset’s Celebration
Weekend in Menlo Park,
TryBeyondToday.com
California. Jun 6–7;
sunset.com/cw. while supplies last.
SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 57 Purina trademarks are owned by Société des
Produits Nestlé S.A.
 Home & Garden

BRE AK THROUGH

What makes
a digiplexis
CANARY ISLAND
FOXGLOVE
Isoplexis canariensis
Evergreen shrub
A bushy native of
Tenerife in the Canary
Islands, with woody
basal trunks and large
dark green leaves.
Grows 4 to 5 feet tall.
Yellow to orange
flowers bloom in late
spring and summer.
Likes sun or part shade;
tolerates drought once
established.

( plus )
FOXGLOVE
Digitalis purpurea
Biennial or
short-lived perennial
From Europe and the Med-
iterranean, this foxglove
forms a basal rosette of
woolly leaves that are
prone to a disease called
rust. Flowers—purple to
pink, on single stems to
2 feet tall or more—appear
over a few weeks in
spring. The plant dies back
after bloom. Self-sows.
Needs shade or part
shade and regular water.

A star is born
Several years in the making, a new foxglove hybrid is ready
FOXGLOVE HYBRID
Digiplexis
‘Illumination Flame’
( equals )

Shrubby perennial
for its debut in your garden. By Kathleen N. Brenzel Blooms in colors from
GARDENERS ARE RUSHING to grow it; botanists are surprised it even exists. The hybrid digi- apricot to magenta
top a mound of
plexis ‘Illumination Flame’ (above) is one of the horticulture world’s biggest hits in years— velvety leaves that
and one of its biggest curiosities. Even among seasoned gardeners, the shrubby perennial are less prone to rust
with vivid candlelike blooms often elicits the question: “What is that?” than standard fox-
glove. Multiple bloom
The plant is the result of six years of work by Charles Valin of Thompson & Morgan. He spikes, to 3 feet,
created it by crossing two distant foxglove cousins and selecting the best of countless hybrids. appear from midspring
Valin first saw an Isoplexis—a big tropical-looking shrub and “a bit of a mythical plantsmans’ until hard frosts in
mild climates. Will not
plant”—in a botanical garden. “It’s not easy to grow,” he says, “but I loved its orange color.” By reseed. Thrives in sun
crossing it with Digitalis purpurea, he produced a sterile plant that wouldn’t scatter seeds of or part shade; moderate
THOMAS J. STORY

blooms in different colors like weeds. Now more widely available in nurseries, digiplexis water and fertilizer
encourage flowering.
makes a great vertical accent for roses or borders. “Bees and hummingbirds just can’t get Like all foxgloves,
enough of it,” says Valin. “I got more than I dreamed of.” it’s toxic to pets.

60 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T Illustrations by M A R GA R E T S L OA N
 A DV E RT I S E M E NT

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BUT HER HUGS WERE JUST RIGHT.
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REAL SIMPLE is a trademark of Time Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries.
All referenced trademarks are the properties of their respective owners.
 Home & Garden

NORTHERN
C A LIF O R NIA
CHECKLIST
PLANT
Set out self-seeding annu-
als such as bachelor’s button, “Many pollinator plants are
calendula, cosmos, love-in-a- edible. Pluck chamomile for
mist, and nasturtium. After the teas; pinch thyme for roasts.”
flowers have bloomed, skip
deadheading and allow seeds JOHANNA SILVER,
to form and fall to the ground. SENIOR GARDEN EDITOR

New seedlings will mature and

provide a second wave of sum-
mer flowers.
Sow seeds for pole beans in
well-amended soil along a trel-
lis. Space seeds 4 to 6 inches
apart and plant 1 inch deep.
Moisten soil thoroughly after
planting and wait to water
again until sprouts emerge.
Enrich your soil. Spread 4 to 6
inches of nutrient-rich compost
on top of garden beds and turn
over the soil.
Use bamboo poles to stake and
support tall plants such as ‘Sen-
sation’ cosmos, delphinium, and
‘Mammoth’ sunflower.

Plant thornless blackberries in HARVEST

soil amended with plenty of
compost. Our top picks for fla-
vor include upright-growing
‘Apache’ and ‘Black Satin’ as
well as trailing ‘Thornless
Boysen’.
Replace thirsty Kentucky turf
grass with Cynodon hybrida
‘Dog Tuff’. This drought-tolerant
warm-season South African
grass withstands high traffic,
is fine-textured enough for play
areas, and exhibits excellent
Dig thin-skinned new
potatoes as soon as the plants
begin to bloom. Gently push
a pitchfork into the soil 1 foot
from the plant and bring the
soil up to where these tender
tubers can be picked by hand.
Harvest radishes as soon as
they reach full size and you I D E A W E LOV E
begin to see the crown showing
above the soil.

durability in yards with dogs.
highcountrygardens.com.
MAINTAIN
To keep your strawberry
crop clean and help deter
weeds, spread chipped bark
mulch around plants; lift all
leaves and fruit above the bark.
READ
Claire Splan’s California
Month-by-Month Gardening
(Cool Springs Press, 2014;
$25) takes the guesswork out
of planting and maintenance for
the state’s gardeners. The book
includes smart seasonal advice,
such as planting sweet potatoes
now for a Thanksgiving harvest.
Bee buffet
Lure pollinators to your vegetable bed by planting nectar- and
pollen-rich flowers among your beans, corn, eggplant, and pep-
pers. In this narrow raised bed in the Sunset Test Garden, white
blooms of old-fashioned German chamomile rise above bright
gold Coreopsis ‘Early Sunrise’. In the foreground, we let our cu-
linary thyme go to flower, its pale lilac blossoms attracting bees
and butterflies. In the background, sunflower stalks shoot sky-
ward with the promise of producing pollen-heavy blooms the
size of dinner plates in late summer, and seeds for the birds to
feast on in fall.
RACHEL WEILL

Learn what to plant when with our year-round checklists : sunset.com/checklists.

62 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T Reported by L AU R E N D U N E C H OA N G
 DECK

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appearance of TimberTech’s Earthwood Evolutions Legacy® Collection gives your deck the
beautiful look of artisan hand-scraped hardwood with the low-maintenance ease of a quality
capped composite. Who knew outdoor flooring could look so good. To see how our complete
line of innovative decking, railing, lighting and fastening products can help you transform
your space into your own personal retreat, visit www.timbertech.com

DECKING | RAILING | LIGHTING | FASTENING

66 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ SUNSET
 Among Northern
California’s
redwoods, two
regular families
(and really good
sports) joined
Sunset editors
to become world-
class campers.
The tricks they
learned will make
your own next
camping trip the
best one ever.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY THOMAS J. STORY

Contributors: Bruce Anderson, Peter Fish, Maili Holiman,

Elaine Johnson, Supriya Kalidas, Megan McCrea, Andrea
Minarcek, Nino Padova, Sara Schneider & Yvonne Stender
 P
CA E
F TH
M
O RE
RT O
A EF
ST B

G REG
TORRES
SCOTT
M I L L ER
RILEY
MILLE R

M AYA
TAMI TORRES
CODIANNE-
MILLE R

ANN-
M A RI E
TORRES
ELLA
TORRES

68 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
Come camping with Sunset! That was the invitation we extended last sum- WE’VE ALL BEEN THERE.
mer: to join Sunset editors for a weekend in the woods. Our dream for this For the leave-Friday-af-
first-ever Camp Sunset event was to see if we could stage the perfect ternoon camping trip,
camping trip. And we needed two sets of campers to help us out. the frantic Thursday
The response was overwhelming. Within days we’d received more than night search for sleep-
1,300 entries—families, couples, friends—from every part of the West and ing bags (in the ga-
from as far away as Rhode Island. Almost all were from people we would the week rage?) and the camp
before
have loved to camp with, and choosing from among them was probably stove (didn’t we have
the toughest job we’ve ever faced. But choose we had to. We selected two fuel for this?). To make
families who were active and adventurous but who shared the mixed GETTING order out of this chaos,
feelings a lot of us have about spending a whole night outdoors. ORGANIZED we compiled our
Our first winning campers were the Millers from San Jose. Tami, 48, is top four pretrip tips
an interior designer. Scott, 44, works in high tech. Their daughter, Riley, (see below). We also
6, is in first grade, where she likes Spanish and art. And although the drew up our ultimate
whole family is into fitness—Scott runs marathons, Tami does yoga and list of camping supplies. The absolute must-brings:
tennis—only Scott and Riley were enthusiastic campers. CAMP CAMP FOOD
“I really want to like camping,” Tami wrote us. “I would like to hear BASICS KITCHEN BASICS
Tent, Cooler and ice, Coffee,
ground stove and fuel, cocoa mix,
“I would like to hear my cloth, butane lighter milk, butter,

husband say ‘camping’ and sleeping

bags, sleep-
or matches, can
opener, cutting
eggs, oatmeal
or granola,
not have my only thought ing pads, board, chef’s bacon, bread,

be, What is the shortest flashlight,

knapsack.
knife, cast-iron
skillet, saucepans,
fruit (fresh
and dried),
amount of time we can get wooden spoon, oil, salt and

away with?” heatproof cups,

plates, silverware.
pepper.

TA M I C O D I A N N E - M I L L E R

You can download our complete list by visiting

my husband say ‘camping’ and not have my only thought be, What is the sunset.com/campinglist.
shortest amount of time we can get away with?” Part of her problem, she
admitted, is that as an interior designer, she has high standards. “I like
TIP

things to be organized,” she said, “comfortable and pretty—even when BEFORE YOU HIT THE ROAD
I’m camping. I appreciate the details.”
Our other family was the Torreses from San Dimas, California. Greg, tip 1
43, works for a law-enforcement union. Ann-Marie, 46, is a former Don’t wait to pack your camping gear
until the night before you leave. Two
newspaper reporter turned aesthetician. Daughter Maya, 14, is on her nights before is good. The weekend be-
high school track team. Ella, 10, is in fifth grade and likes soccer. fore, even better.
Greg wrote that he was the big camping fan in his family—“My
tip 2
favorite memories as a kid were those spent setting up our tent with my Designate one corner of your
dad”—but he’d been unable to duplicate those experiences with his wife garage as the camping corner.
and daughters. Ann-Marie was especially wary. She and Greg camped
tip 3
when they were first married. “But once we had kids, we stopped,” she Newbie? Don’t let our list scare you.
said. “I wanted us all to enjoy camping. But it was so hard.” The big-ticket items (tents, sleeping
Here was our challenge. Could we devise a weekend that would bags) can be rented.
convert camping doubters into enthusiasts? To raise the stakes higher, tip 4
our campers would earn merit badges as they learned skills from Sunset Bring two sets of car keys. And have
editors and carefully chosen outdoor experts—skills ranging from the them carried by two people. Because
spending hours looking for your
classic (building a campfire) to cutting-edge (mixing an artisanal camp keys somewhere on the Bluebird Trail
cocktail). All are strategies you can employ on your own next camping where you think you dropped them
weekend—ones we think will lift the experience to the extraordinary. is no fun. Nor is realizing that your car
is locked with the keys inside,
And so, on a sunny Friday afternoon, families and editors gathered along with the s’mores ingredients.
at Big Basin Redwoods State Park in Northern California’s Santa Cruz And the bourbon.
Mountains. Then the fun began.

Merit badge illustrations by ALICE CHO

 AY
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TAMI CODIANNE -MILLER HAD SET THE

bar high: Our camp needed to be pret-
ty. But we knew it had to be functional
and environmentally friendly too.
That’s where two of our guest ex-
perts came in. As part of the Subaru/
friday Leave No Trace Traveling Trainers Pro-
afternoon gram, Danielle Rowland and Roland
Mott (at right) teach minimum-impact
CAMP outdoors skills across the country.
SETUP They gave us a lot of useful tips
(see below). But their first advice was
a little surprising: to pick up our camp-
site. It seemed obsessive, cleaning up
before we started putting up tents. But the practice helps maintain
a clean campsite for the rest of the trip. And that’s especially im-
portant in ecologically sensitive campsites like Big Basin (see our
note on the marbled murrelet, page 76). “Microtrash is all the tiny
flyaways that people sometimes miss: crumbs, bits of wrapper, twist
ties from bread,” Mott told us. “It’s little, but over time, it builds up—
and it could hurt a raccoon or bird if they tried to eat it.”

“ That
TIP

CAMP IN
COMFORT sleeping
P I T C H YO U R T E N T
pad is a
ON LEVEL GROUND
Anybody who has
lifesaver.
ever spent a restless
night slowly sliding
As a kid,
headfirst out of
a sleeping bag or roll-
I took
ing from one side
of the tent to the
blankets
other knows why this
is important.
and fold-
S E PA R A T E
ed them
E AT I N G A N D
SLEEPING AREAS
under
Picnic tables and
campfire circles
my
inevitably morph into
party central. Even
sleeping
in a small campsite,
create psychological
bag.”
space by grouping GREG TORRES
tents a few yards
away from the action.

AC C E S S O R I Z E
Car camping lets you
bring more gear than
if you were hiking the
Pacific Crest Trail.
Camp chairs make
a convivial campsite;
lanterns make it
cheery at night (and
help you not trip
on your way to the
bathroom). Touches
like environmentally
friendly cloth
napkins and match-
ing tinware can make
your picnic table
Michelin-star-worthy.

70 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 “ THE KE Y TO A GOOD C AMPFIRE IS
OUR FAVORITE GEAR architecture,” Charohn Dawson told our
campers as they gathered around
the still-bare firepit. Dawson has taught
friends and family how to camp and
has camped around the world; he’s also
friday an Alameda County, California, fireman.
night Dawson worked so artfully, he might
have been building one of the pyres
CAMPING COTS
CAMPFIRE at Burning Man. But he was applying
REI Kingdom Cot. BUILDING laws of fire physics, stacking the wood
$139; rei.com. to provide good airflow and ensuring
that smaller pieces of kindling, once
CAMP PILLOWS lit, would warm the bigger logs above
Therm-A-Rest compressible them. In a few minutes, we had a fire that was the envy of all the
pillow. $20; rei.com.
campsites around us. Watch Dawson start a fire: sunset.com/
TENTS campfire. And see his tips below.
TeaHouse 2, Ticla.
$280; ticla.com.
TeaHouse 3, Ticla.

TIP
$345; ticla.com.
Mojave 4, Ticla. START THE
$400; ticla.com. PERFECT FIRE

PA C K
From home,
bring a bu-
tane lighter or
matches, kin-
dling and logs of
different sizes,
grilling tongs,
SLEEPING PACKS/BAGS and thick grill-
ing gloves.
G.O.O.D. System bag with
sleeping pad, Ticla. BUILD
From $180; ticla.com. Our favorite
design combines
STOVE a log cabin–style
Primus FireHole 100. arrangement
$150; rei.com. on the outside
(4 large logs set
in a box shape)
CAMP CHAIRS with a tipi of
REI Comfort chair. smaller wood
$35; rei.com. in the middle
REI Hang Time chair. to help it catch.
$55; rei.com. Use enough
fuel to cover the
grill area.
LANTERNS
Coleman Pack-Away BURN
Puck Light 250. It takes 30 to
$55; coleman.com. 45 minutes for
a fire to burn
Coleman CPX 6 Classic down to low
Family Lantern. flames plus em-
$35; coleman.com. bers, the ideal
stage for cook-
ing. This is your
golden time for
happy hour and
dinner prep.
 AY
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FR

CA M P IN G
“ THE SE CRE T TO R EC IP E
getting kids to help
with cooking,” says SERVES 6 / 1 1⁄ 2 HOURS

Sunset senior food The classic meal in a foil pouch gets a serious upgrade in this fresh version.
editor Elaine John- For a head start, make the meatballs at home (see below). You’ll need heavy-
son, “is to do it in duty foil, long tongs, grilling gloves, and a firepit with a cooking grate. Watch
the woods and not us make this recipe: sunset.com/hobobundles. (For more uses for the pickled
friday
night in the kitchen.” Calabrian chiles, see page 112.)
For our first
KIDS COOK night’s dinner, all About 5 tbsp. olive oil, divided 1 tbsp. chopped Calabrian chiles or
DINNER the grown-ups ex- 1⁄ 3 cup dried Italian-style bread 1⁄4 tsp. cayenne, plus more chiles for

cept Johnson got crumbs serving

to loll beneath the
redwoods while
Riley Miller and Ella and Maya Torres made
dinner: hobo bundles, aka seasoned meatballs
cooked in foil with vegetables.
How’d it go? Just great. “Think about match-
ing kitchen tasks to kids’ ages and skill levels,”
says Johnson. Younger kids can snip herbs
with children’s scissors and slice softer foods
(cucumbers, bananas) using serrated plastic
knives. Older kids can peel vegetables and use
paring knives (with adult supervision) to cut
carrots and small potatoes. And everybody
can shape meatballs.
1⁄ 3 cup milk 1 lb. each ground turkey (preferably
1⁄ 2 cup grated parmesan cheese, plus thigh meat) and Italian sausage
shredded parmesan for serving (chicken or turkey, preferably bulk)
3 tbsp. each chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 lbs. small red potatoes, cut into 1- to
and fresh basil, plus whole leaves 11⁄ 2-in. chunks or halves
for serving 1 large onion, cut into slim wedges
1 tsp. each kosher salt and pepper, 4 medium carrots, sliced diagonally
divided 4 tsp. cornstarch
1. In a firepit, build a wood fire about as wide as the cooking grate. Let it burn
to low flames and embers (1 to 11/2 hours; or use charcoal*); fire is ready
when you can hold your hand 5 in. above grate only 5 to 7 seconds. (Watch
us build a fire: sunset.com/cookingfire.) Cut 6 sheets of heavy-duty foil into 18-
in. squares. Brush or rub center of each with a little oil; set on work surface.
2. In a large bowl, combine bread crumbs, milk, grated parmesan, chopped

“Ella’s really parsley and basil, 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper, and the chopped Calabrian
chile. Add ground turkey and sausage (squeeze it from casings if it’s in
the cook in our links). Stir until well blended, then shape into 18 balls, setting on parch-

household.” ment paper or plates.

3. Put 3 meatballs in the center of each foil sheet, then divide potatoes, onion,
ANN-MARIE TORRES and carrots among sheets. In a small bowl, combine remaining 1/4 cup oil,
1/3 cup water, the cornstarch, and remaining 1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper;

spoon over ingredients on foil, stirring sauce as you go.

4. On each bundle, bring 2 opposite sides of foil together across the middle and
fold to make a seam 1 in. wide. Fold seam on itself again, then fold it flat on
packet. Fold ends on themselves about 1 in., then repeat to seal securely.
5. Set bundles on grill and cook, turning over with tongs every 10 minutes,
until vegetables are tender and meatballs are cooked through, about
30 minutes (to check, open with a knife).
6. Protecting hands with grilling gloves, open packets (or snip off ends of foil
with scissors) and scoop food onto plates. Snip whole parsley and basil
leaves on top and serve with more chiles and shredded parmesan.
*For a charcoal fire, ignite a full chimney of briquets once you’ve made the meat-
balls, and let burn until covered with ash. Spread beneath cooking grate, then
ignite a second chimney to add during cooking if needed to maintain a medium
fire (see step 1); cooking may take up to 1 hour.
MAKE AHEAD Freeze meatballs (step 2) on baking sheets lined with parchment
paper until solid, then transfer to resealable plastic bags, double-lined with
parchment. Pack frozen in your cooler and thaw before cooking (takes 1 to
2 days). You can also chill packets (through step 4) in cooler up to 6 hours.

PER SERVING 530 Cal., 45% (238 Cal.) from fat; 35 g protein; 27 g fat (6.2 g sat.); 38 g carbo
(4.6 g fiber); 1,079 mg sodium; 124 mg chol.

72 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
Every camper’s
nemesis:
the raccoon
A TripAdvisor review
of Big Basin’s camp-
grounds warned: “Ma-
jor raccoon problem.
These aren’t your timid
raccoons. They began
coming to our camp-
sites even before the
sun started to set and
were not fearful at
all.” Boy, was this re-
viewer right. As dusk
settled over our lovely
campground, raccoons
plotted—then attacked.
Nothing edible was
safe. We had to embrace
the motto of Harry Pot-
ter’s Mad-Eye Moody:
constant vigilance! Ella
Torres chased raccoons
from her tent with grill-
ing tongs. Riley Miller
pinned her hopes on
the court system. “We
need to put all the rac-
coons in jail,” she said.
“They need to be taught
a lesson.”
FOR DE SSERT
Here are our hard-
earned raccoon lessons. on a camping
trip, s’mores are
1
essential. Elaine
Do not think you are
faster or smarter than Johnson advises
raccoons. a DIY s’mores
2
tray that makes it
friday
Do not leave food out in night easy to customize
your campsite, then the treats. “The
walk away “for just a
minute,” thinking that S’MORES! kids’ s’mores will
raccoons won’t get it. be on this side,”
See lesson 1. she told our
3
campers, “and
Do not leave food in the the adult s’mores will be on this side.”
backseat of your car “There’s an adult side?” Charohn Dawson
and then forget to roll asked. “Like with cognac?”
up the windows. Do not
leave food in your tent No cognac. Still, it’s easy to offer adults
either. They will get it. more sophisticated ingredients, like coffee-
4
flavored marshmallows and bittersweet choc-
Bear-resistant food olate. (The kids? They’ll be fine with classic
boxes are also raccoon- chocolate bars and puffy, white supermarket
resistant food boxes marshmallows.) The biggest s’mores innova-
and are your friend.
Use them. tion is a technical one: s’more roasting sticks,
telescoping forks that let you roast your goo-
ey creation from your camp chair.
For more s’mores guidance, see page 112.
 AY
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IS THERE C AMPIN G
without coffee? No. Al-
though you may remem-
ber with dread the days
when camp coffee was
powdery instant mixed
saturday with cakey creamer, it’s
morning now entirely possible to
brew a cup—even a wil-
CAMP derness latte—that would
COFFEE do credit to Stumptown
or Blue Bottle or Philz.
TIP

BREW THE BEST CAMP COFFEE

BEGIN WITH THE BASICS

Heat water in a pot and pour into a #4 plas-
tic filter cone (and #6 coffee filters to
avoid spilling) sitting atop a GSI Outdoor
Enamelware Coffee Pot (REI; $25).

MEMORIZE THIS FORMULA

1 cup of coffee grounds + 6 cups of water
= 5 potently strong cups of joe.

BE GENTLE
Don’t bring the water to a full, rolling boil—
bubbling is all you’re after. Any hotter,
and it’ll bring out the bitter acidity in the
coffee when you pour it over the grounds.

INVEST IN A MILK FROTHER

(Produkt, $2.50; ikea.com).They’re small,
lightweight, and create great foam. Heat
milk in a separate pan, stirring often.
You don’t want it to scorch. Once it starts
steaming, remove from heat and froth away.

FILL MUGS
with your preferred proportion of
coffee to deliciously foamy milk.

WA T C H U S
make camp coffee: sunset.com/campcoffee.

74 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 saturday
morning

CAMP
BREAKFAST

FOR SATURDAY
CA M P IN G
morning, we opted R EC IP E
for that classic
camp breakfast
item, pancakes. Not MAKES 8 CUPS MIX (ENOUGH FOR 4 BATCHES, 12 PANCAKES PER BATCH)
15 MINUTES AT HOME, 30 IN CAMP
the bland, doughy
“Healthy—and delicious” was the verdict from our Camp Sunset
disks you recall
guests. Make the mix for these tender, moist pancakes at home,
from summer camp,
and they’ll be ready in no time in camp.
but moist, tender
pancakes with
a tang of lemon. THE MIX 1 tbsp. baking soda
To save time (and 21⁄ 2 cups regular rolled oats 2 tsp. kosher salt
stress), Elaine Zest of 3 large lemons (rinse and
Johnson shared dry lemons before zesting to 1 BATCH PANCAKES

a useful trick: keep mix dry) 2 cups mix

Make up pancake 2 cups each whole-wheat flour 2 large eggs
and all-purpose flour 1⁄4 cup vegetable oil, divided
mix at home, mea-
sure it in one-batch 11⁄ 2 cups dried buttermilk* Sliced strawberries
1⁄ 3 cup packed brown sugar Butter
portions, and bring
it to the camp- 2 tbsp. baking powder Berry syrup or maple syrup
ground in small
baggies. AT H O M E
“Have you done 1. Make mix: Whirl oats and lemon zest in a food processor until
a cooking show be- ground with only tiny pieces remaining. Pour into a bowl and
fore?” asked Scott whisk in remaining mix ingredients. Transfer to an airtight
Miller, who, it turned container or bag.
out, is a fan of the
genre. “Because IN CAMP
that’s what they do.” 2. Make pancakes: In a large bowl, whisk together 2 cups mix with
1 cup water, the eggs, and 2 tbsp. oil until smooth. (Batter thickens
as it sits.) Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat on
a camp stove; grease skillet with 1/2 tbsp. oil.
WE LOVE COOKING
3. Ladle 1/4-cup portions of batter into skillet. Cook, turning pancakes
OUTDOORS! once and rotating position in pan, until golden brown, 5 to 6
minutes total. Add 1 tsp. oil to skillet and repeat with more batter
Get dozens more Sunset and oil to cook remaining pancakes, turning down heat if
recipes for every meal:
sunset.com/campeats.
pancakes start browning too fast. Serve with strawberries, butter,
and syrup.
Use our advice to pick a
camp stove: sunset.com/
*Find in the baking aisle at well-stocked grocery stores.
campstoves. MAKE AHEAD Mix, up to 2 weeks, stored airtight, or 1 month, chilled.
And learn how to wash PER 3-PANCAKE SERVING 371 Cal., 43% (158 Cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 18 g fat
dishes in the woods: (2.7 g sat.); 42 g carbo (3.8 g fiber); 697 mg sodium; 112 mg chol. V
sunset.com/campdishes.
 AY
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BIG BASIN REDWOODS STATE PARK, in the Santa Cruz Mountains west of San
Jose, was established in 1902, making it the first state park in California. And its
dense stands of coast redwoods are as impressive as any in existence.
A good way to get the most out of Big Basin is to do what we did, and join
one of the nature walks led by rangers like Alex Tabone (below). Leading hikers
along the Redwood Loop Trail, he explained that redwoods are a conifer species
that dates back to the Jurassic. They’re uniquely suited to Northern California’s
saturday
morning Our
coast, with thick bark that helps them withstand the wildfires that sometimes burn
hero:
through the Santa Cruz Mountains. And
NATURE the
their great height—the tallest here can
WALK marbled
reach more than 300 feet—lets them grab
murrelet
moisture from the fog that often blankets
the coast in summer. What had the
Tabone gave his hikers lots of facts, biggest impact
but then, after a few minutes, he let what happens on a good hike on how we
camped? A lit-
in the woods happen. He let the redwoods speak for themselves. You tle bird called
walk quietly and admire the way the sunlight falls in luminous shafts the marbled
between the tree trunks. You climb up onto one toppled giant, and murrelet. This
distant rela-
step inside another that has been blackened and hollowed out by tive of the auk
fire. You stare up to where the tops of the trees touch the morning lives most of
sky. You feel joyously small. its life out in
the Pacific,
but every year
it returns
to Northern
California to
perch in tall
trees like Big
Basin’s coast
redwoods.
There, in its
treetop aerie,
it attempts
to lay one
egg. If ravens
and jays eat
the eggs and
chicks, that’s
it. No little
murrelets
for that year.
What attracts
ravens and
jays? Crumbs,
like the kind
campers leave
around. For
this reason,
Big Basin and
a number of
other parks
on the North-
ern California
coast have
instituted no-
crumb camp-
ing policies.
We were very,
very tidy.

76 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 saturday
afternoon

SLEEP
EASY

“NOW I REMEMBER
what I don’t like
about camping,”
said Ann-Marie
Torres as we set up
tents. “Sleeping on
the ground.”
While kids may
tolerate—even revel
in—sleeping on bare
dirt, middle-aged
backs tend to protest.
And a grown-up who
has spent a restless
night is not going to
be a happy camper.
But few aspects of
camping have im-
proved as much as
getting a comfort-
able night’s sleep. A
quality foam or air
pad does wonders
(see gear list, page
71). “That Ticla sleep-
ing pad is a lifesaver,”
Greg Torres said.
“When I was a kid, I
just took blankets
and folded them un-
der my sleeping bag.”
TIP

TAKING THE CAMP NAP

What if you want to enjoy that most blissful of

afternoon camp activities, the camp nap? Tents,
alas, really don’t work for daytime snoozing—
they get too hot. What you need is a camping cot,
a lightweight but padded place to doze or read
among the trees. REI Kingdom Cot, $139; rei.com.
 AY
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THE CL ASSIC C AMP -

ground cocktail may
be some whiskey,
neat, in a Sierra Club
cup. For Camp Sunset,
wine editor Sara
saturday Schneider and spirits-
evening savvy senior travel
editor Nino Padova
CAMP recommended
COCKTAILS two camp-friendly
cocktails : the first
an intriguingly herbal
negroni, the second a
smoky variant of the old-fashioned. Pair either with
our favorite bar snack, candied rosemary hazel-
nuts: sunset.com/hazelnutsnack.

CA M P IN G
R EC IP E

Fill a mixing glass about two-thirds

full with ice cubes. Add 11/2 oz.
(3 tbsp.) St. George Terroir gin,
3/4 oz. (11/2 tbsp.) lighter-style sweet

vermouth (such as Dolin), 1/2 oz.

(1 tbsp.) Gran Classico bitters, and
1/2 oz. (1 tbsp.) Lillet Blanc. Stir until

cold, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Put a large

ice cube in an old-fashioned glass,
strain cocktail into glass, and garnish
with a fresh or dried bay leaf. Serves 1.

SMOKY OLD WEST

In an old-fashioned glass, combine
1 tbsp. water, 1 tsp. superfine sugar,
and 4 dashes chocolate- or mole-
flavored bitters, such as Fee Brothers
Aztec Chocolate Bitters; stir until sugar
has dissolved. Add a large twist of
orange peel and press against bottom
of glass with a bar spoon to release
oils. Add 2 oz. (1/4 cup) High West
Campfire Whiskey and ice cubes
to fill glass; stir briefly just to mix.
Serves 1.

78 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 IN THE OUTDOORS,

TIP

TIP
you depend on one
CAMP COCKTAIL TELL A
SECRETS another for enter- TERRIFIC
tainment. Berkeley- STORY
prep at home based Joel ben
For spirits-only (no Izzy, who has Joel ben Izzy
juice) cocktails like the says these topics
negroni, it’s fine to saturday worked as a profes- almost always
mix up a big batch and evening sional storyteller spark good
bring it with you. for 30-plus years, campfire stories:

pack good gear

CAMP says, “One of the your name
When car camping, STORIES things about camp- Hate it? Love it?
bring high-quality ing is you bring How did you
equipment. We toted a get it?
mixing glass, cocktail a lot of stuff with
spoon, strainer, and you—tents and food
double jigger—but sleeping bags. You bring stories too.” His ad- The food you
drew the line at actual most love, the
glassware and opted vice: Enjoy this unplugged time where every- food you most
for stylish plastic. body gets to be the audience, and the star. hate—and why
you hate it.
ice is key
“You can’t have slushy, animal
not-cold ice,” Nino Pa- encounters
dova said. Fortunately, You and a bear/
the Big Basin park snake/moose/
store had excellent ice. raccoon.
If you have to lug
bags from home, plan
cocktail hour for your
first night, before
the ice starts melting
in the bottom
of your cooler.

Visit sunset.com for our ultimate camping resource guide,

WE LOVE with packing tips, recipes, advice on choosing hiking boots,
CAMPING more campgrounds, and a look at how Sunset has camped
over the past century: sunset.com/campsunset.
 AY
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WE’LL BE THE FIRST TO ADMIT IT: THE DUTCH
oven looks intimidating. Squat and dark, it has
a hardy pioneer aura to it that can make you
feel unworthy, as if you couldn’t possibly use
one unless you’d trudged the length of the
Oregon Trail.
But the dutch oven is well worth packing
saturday
evening along on any car camping trip. It’s easier to
use than it looks, and it’s extremely versatile.
DUTCH OVEN Above all, it lets you do some campground bak-
COOKING ing, as with this moist, delicious chocolate cake
that will make you a campground star. We
baked it in the afternoon to enjoy after dinner.
80 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
CA M P IN G
R EC IP E
SERVES 6 / 10 MINUTES AT HOME,
1 HOUR PLUS COOLING TIME IN CAMP
Use charcoal briquets instead of wood to more precisely
control the fire’s heat.
11⁄ 2 cups flour
1 cup sugar
1⁄4 cup each dried buttermilk* and unsweetened cocoa
1 tsp. baking soda
1⁄ 2 tsp. salt
1 cup chocolate chips, divided
About 1⁄ 3 cup vegetable oil
2 tsp. vanilla extract
Sweetened whipped cream (whisk whipping cream in
a bowl with a little sugar or use canned)
AT H O M E
1. Combine flour, sugar, dried buttermilk, cocoa, baking
soda, salt, and 1/2 cup chocolate chips in a lidded con-
tainer or a resealable plastic bag. Pour 1/3 cup oil and the
vanilla into a second container with a snug lid. Cut a
circle of parchment paper to fit the bottom of a 4-qt.
camp dutch oven.
IN CAMP
2. Fill a charcoal chimney starter one-third with briquets,
set in a firepit, ignite, and let burn until briquets are
spotted gray, about 20 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, generously oil dutch oven, line with parch-
ment paper circle, and oil paper. Pour flour mixture into
a medium bowl.
4. When fire is ready, add oil mixture and 1 cup water
to flour mixture and stir until blended. Scrape into
dutch oven and sprinkle with remaining 1/2 cup
chocolate chips.
5. Using tongs, space 8 coals in firepit in a circle a little
smaller than the dutch oven. Set dutch oven on coals,
checking that it’s level. Set lid on top, then arrange
14 coals on lid around the lip and 2 coals in center of lid.
Set any extra coals aside.
6. Bake cake until a skewer inserted into center comes out
clean, 25 to 30 minutes; to check, lift lid by sliding tongs
through lid’s center handle and bracing them against side
of lid closest to you, then tilting lid up. Remove lid and let
cake cool at least 15 minutes before cutting into wedges.
*Find at well-stocked grocery stores.
MAKE AHEAD Through step 1, up to 3 months, mix chilled
and oil stored airtight.
PER SERVING 537 Cal., 38% (205 Cal.) from fat; 6.1 g protein; 23 g fat
(7 g sat.); 83 g carbo (3.3 g fiber); 431 mg sodium; 3 mg chol. V
 DUTCH OVEN COOKING, STEP BY STEP

E Q U I PM E N T
You’ll need a 4-qt. camp dutch oven with feet and a flanged lid (Lodge, $50; REI), charcoal briquets, a chimney starter,
some newspaper, a fire starter, grilling tongs and gloves, and a couple of wooden skewers.

1 2 3 4
For no-stick baking, oil the Make a decadent batter After you scrape the Fill a charcoal chimney one-
dutch oven, line it with a with a homemade cocoa– batter into the dutch oven, third full, crumple newspaper
circle of parchment paper, chocolate chip cake mix, sprinkle the top with into the bottom, and ignite.
and oil it again. oil, water, and vanilla. more chocolate chips. Pour into the firepit.

5 6 7 8
For even cooking, arrange Set the dutch oven Bake the cake 25 minutes, If a skewer comes out clean,
one-third of the coals under on the ring of coals. Now then carefully lift the the cake is done. Remove
the dutch oven in a ring arrange more coals as lid by sliding sturdy tongs it from the fire to cool at least
a little smaller than the pot. shown in the next photo. under the handle. 15 minutes.

WE LOVE COOKING OUTDOORS! Watch us make this cake with our Camp Sunset campers: sunset.com/dutchovencake.
 AY
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CA M P IN G
A LITTLE -KNOWN BUT IMPORTANT
rule of a successful camping R EC IP E
trip is this: You want to make one
truly special meal—something that SERVES 6 TO 8 / 15 MINUTES AT HOME, 1 1⁄ 2 HOURS IN CAMP
seems as if it might be impossible You can get a jump on the prep before you leave home. If you pack
to prepare in a campground but the chicken and shrimp frozen in your cooler, they’ll keep longer.
saturday that is, in fact, surprisingly doable.
evening This will be the meal you’ll talk
1 small onion 1 fennel bulb with feathery
about for many camping trips
FANCY CAMP to come. Our chicken-and-rice main
1 green bell pepper greens

DINNER dish easily fulfills the fine-dining-

in-the-out-of-doors requirement. It
has the flavors of paella but
cooks on a regular camp stove.
1 cup pimento-stuffed
green olives
3 large garlic cloves, minced
1⁄4 tsp. saffron threads
1⁄ 2 lb. Spanish chorizo or 1 can (141⁄ 2 oz.) diced tomatoes
andouille sausage 2 cups Arborio rice
11⁄ 2 lbs. boned, skinned 3⁄4 cup Spanish fino sherry or

chicken thighs other dry sherry

Ann-Marie asked Ella, 11⁄4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
21⁄ 2 tsp. smoked paprika,
“Of all our vacations, divided
3 tbsp. olive oil, divided
which was your
1 can (141⁄ 2 oz.) reduced-sodium
chicken broth
8 oz. thawed frozen shelled and
deveined cooked small shrimp
(70 to 110 per lb.)

favorite?” Ella said, AT H O M E

“This one.” 1. Chop onion and bell pepper and put in an airtight container.
Put olives in a container. Thinly slice chorizo and package air-
tight. Cut each chicken thigh into 3 pieces, toss with 1/2 tsp. each
salt and paprika, and package airtight. Chill ingredients.

IN CAMP
2. Heat 1 tbsp. oil in a 6-qt. pot over medium-high heat on a camp
stove. Add chorizo and sauté until browned, about 5 minutes.
Transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon.
3. Brown half of chicken at a time in pot, turning over once, until
cooked through, 6 to 8 minutes per batch. Transfer to a
second plate.
4. Meanwhile, trim ends from fennel and reserve feathery
tops. Halve fennel lengthwise. Cut out core in a V and thinly
slice bulb.
5. Add remaining 2 tbsp. oil to pot along with fennel, onion, and
bell pepper. Sauté until fennel softens, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in
garlic, remaining 3/4 tsp. salt, remaining 2 tsp. paprika, and the
saffron and cook until fragrant and sizzling, about 1 minute.
Add tomatoes; cook, stirring, until thick, about 5 minutes.
6. Add rice and stir until coated, then stir in 1 cup water, the sher-
ry, broth, olives, and chorizo. Cover and bring to a boil over
high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until rice is tender and
liquid is almost absorbed, about 25 minutes.
7. Arrange chicken with any juices and shrimp over rice. Cook,
covered, until shrimp and chicken are hot, about 5 minutes.
Chop fennel fronds and scatter on top.
MAKE AHEAD Through step 1, up to 2 days, chilled.

PER SERVING (ABOUT 2 CUPS) 463 Cal., 44% (202 Cal.) from fat; 33 g protein; 23 g fat
(5.8 g sat.); 29 g carbo (2 g fiber); 1,155 mg sodium; 144 mg chol. LC

82 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 WOOD MAKES A CAMP-
fire burn, but the songs
we sing around it give it
warmth. Your roommate
with the never-been-
tuned ukulele or that un-
saturday cle who “strums a little
evening guitar” but who still,
after 23 years, hasn’t
CAMPFIRE budged from the second
SING-ALONG verse of “Brown Eyed
Girl”: They’re the heroes
of the campfire.
But if given the option,
it’s better to have real campfire heroes on hand.
We invited Ben and Alex Morrison of the San Fran-
cisco–based string band The Brothers Comatose
to join us at Big Basin for one night. They brought
fiddle player Philip Brezina along for the fun.
The trio insisted on the cardinal rule of campfire
sing-alongs: Everybody participates. “You don’t
have to sing in tune or even know the words,”
Ben said. “Hum, clap, bang on a log, as long as
you’re part of the process.”
 AY
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BY SUNDAY MORNIN G,
our Camp Sunset families
had become such dedicated
outdoors people that the
Torres and Miller kids
showed up at 7 in the morning—
sunday unasked but very welcome—
morning to help prepare this egg
and tomato dish. Ella,
FAREWELL Maya, and Riley proved ex-
BREAKFAST pert in sautéing onions and
garlic with sweet paprika.

CA M P IN G
R EC IP E

SERVES 6 / 1 HOUR
To scoop up every bit of this spicy egg and tomato dish, popular in North Africa and Israel, we brushed slices of pain au levain with oil,
then toasted them on a grill pan set on a camp stove. After breakfast, we cleaned the cast-iron skillet by scrubbing it with hot water
and a nylon wash pad (no soap). We set it back on the stove to dry and wipe with a thin film of oil. For more: sunset.com/cleancastiron.

About 1⁄4 cup extra- About 1⁄ 2 tsp. 1. Heat 2 tbsp. oil in a 12-in. cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat on a camp stove. Sauté
virgin olive oil, kosher salt onion and fresh chiles, if using, until softened, 7 to 8 minutes. Add canned chiles, if
divided 1 tbsp. sweet or using, garlic, cumin, 1/2 tsp. salt, and the paprika; cook, stirring, until garlic is softened,
1 small onion, hot paprika about 1 minute.
chopped 1 can (28 oz.) crushed 2. Add tomatoes and sugar; bring to simmering, then reduce heat and cook until flavors
3⁄4 cup chopped fresh tomatoes are blended and mixture is a little thicker, about 15 minutes. Stir in 1 tbsp. parsley.
Anaheim chiles or 2 tsp. sugar 3. With a wooden spoon, make 6 depressions in tomato mixture. Crack 1 egg into each
1 can (4 oz.) 1⁄4 cup chopped and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover skillet tightly with a lid or foil. Cook until
chopped Anaheim flat-leaf parsley, eggs are set but yolks are still runny, rotating skillet 180° halfway through cooking,
chiles, drained divided 5 to 9 minutes.
2 garlic cloves, 6 large eggs 4. Scatter feta and remaining 3 tbsp. parsley over shakshouka, then drizzle with remaining
chopped Pepper 2 tbsp. oil. Serve with more oil at the table if you like.
1 tsp. ground cumin 1⁄ 2 cup crumbled
PER SERVING 249 Cal., 62% (154 Cal.) from fat; 12 g protein; 18 g fat (4.8 g sat.); 15 g carbo (3.3 g fiber);
feta cheese 584 mg sodium; 223 mg chol. GF/LC/V

THE LAST WORD

FOR ALL THE CAMP SUNSET CAMPERS, Sunday morning came too soon. After breakfast, it was time to
How do you pack up, clean up, and think about how the first-ever Camp Sunset had gone.
Comfort and aesthetics won Tami Codianne-Miller over. “I thought I’d be the hardest to please,”
know when she said, “but the details like the matching tinware place settings knocked my socks off.” Scott
Miller’s high point was the hike through the redwoods with park ranger Alex Tabone. As for Riley
you’ve had a Miller, she had such a good time that she and her father were already plotting their own backyard
camping trip when they returned home.
great camping Greg Torres said that for his family, their favorite moments were the ones spent around the camp-
fire: the singing, the storytelling, the s’mores toasting. And getting to know their fellow campers.
trip? When it And what about us? We learned that raccoons are smart and agile (see page 73). We learned that
you miss your phone a lot less than you think you’re going to. And that the most beautiful sight in
seems way, the world is a starry night sky framed by the silhouettes of redwood trees.
But we’ll give the final verdict on Camp Sunset to Ella Torres. As the Torres family was packing up,
way too short. they began reminiscing about the other family vacations they’d taken over the past few years.
“Ella,” Ann-Marie Torres asked, “of all of our vacations, what was your favorite?”
Ella, immediately: “This one.”

84 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T

Shhh! Don’t tell anybody. Here are Sunset writers’ and editors’ top-secret camping spots—
12 from the Rockies to Puget Sound, each one the perfect spot to create your own Camp Sunset.
ARIZONA
Desert View,
Grand Canyon
National Park
WHY WE LOVE IT Think
South Rim scenery with-
out (so many) crowds.
Photographers thrill to
Desert View, especially
at dawn, when first light
paints the canyon in
soft pastels. Twenty-five
miles east of Grand
Canyon Village, it’s less
well-known than Mather,
the other South Rim
campground. But you’ll
still want to grab a
spot by 10 or 11, when
people are packing up.
$12; $25/vehicle; mid-
May–mid-Oct; 50 sites;
no reservations; nps.
gov/grca.
CALIFORNIA
Big Pine Creek,
Inyo National
Forest
WHY WE LOVE IT This
classic High Sierra camp
has superb mountain
scenery and lots to
do. Set among vanilla-
scented Jeffrey pines
below a banquet of
13,000-foot peaks,
Big Pine Canyon is a
mountain-lover’s haven.
Experts head for the
Palisades Glacier; laid-
back campers fish Big
Pine Creek or hike the
North Fork Trail to wa-
terfalls and glacier-fed
lakes. Nearby Glacier
Lodge has pay showers.
$22; mid-May–Oct; 30
sites; vault toilets; 1.usa.
gov/17S7zkh.
Jalama Beach
County Park
WHY WE LOVE IT Fea-
tured on our cover, this
Santa Barbara County
beach is one of the most
beautiful in California.
ICONS: ALICE CHO
You have to drive 19
KEY TO ICONS
THE BEAUTIFUL DOZEN
Sunset’s all-time favorite campgrounds
winding miles south from COLORADO
Lompoc to get here,
but the trek is worth Belle of Colorado,
it: 109 campsites on a Turquoise Lake
gorgeously unspoiled Recreation Area,
sweep of coastline. You San Isabel National
probably won’t want Forest
to get more than your WHY WE LOVE IT Talk
shins wet—the water can about prime real estate:
be cold and rough—but These 19 tent-only
surf-fishing, kite-flying, sites sit right on the
and beachcombing edge of Turquoise Lake,
opportunities abound. so you wake to views
Don’t want to camp? Re- of soaring Sugarloaf
serve one of the park’s Mountain framed
cabins. And order a by broad blue waters.
Jalama Burger from the String a hammock
camp store. Campsites among the lodgepole
from $28, cabins from pines shading the shore-
$160; reservations. line, take a bracing dip
sbparks.org. in the lake, or cast a
line for trout. $20; May
22–Sep 7; vault toilets;
Mary Smith,
no reservations; 1.usa.
Lewiston Lake,
Shasta-Trinity gov/1zLusw7.
National Forest
WHY WE LOVE IT It’s Saddlehorn,
a kayakers’ and bird- Colorado National
watchers’ paradise. Monument
Serene Lewiston Lake WHY WE LOVE IT It’s
has a 10 mph speed big (80 sites), so you’ll
almost always find a
limit, making it perfect
vacancy—and privacy.
for paddlers and bird-
ers hoping to spot a Sites sit among piñon
bald eagle or osprey. pines and junipers,
Seventeen tent-only which create the illusion
sites provide views of of solitude. And be-
cause they overlook the
the lake and the Trinity
canyon rim, sites here
Alps; six tent cabins
offer luxury. The history- enjoy cooler tempera-
tures and easy access to
rich towns of Lewiston
commanding views: The
and Weaverville are
nearby. $14 tent, $79 campground’s Window
Rock and Canyon Rim
cabin; Apr–Sep; 1.usa.
gov/1FYFvqH. Trails lead to stunning
vistas of red rock spires.
$20; $10/vehicle; open
Sempervirens, year-round; nps.gov/
Big Basin Red- colm.
woods State Park
WHY WE LOVE IT Site OREGON
of Camp Sunset, it’s set
in a grove of towering Wallowa Lake State
coast redwoods that Park, Joseph
give the campground WHY WE LOVE IT Wal-
its name, with easy ac- lowa is a gorgeous
cess to trails leading to mountain lake with
Sempervirens Waterfall. lots of things to do
$35; late Mar–Nov; 31 along with breathtak-
sites; parks.ca.gov. ing views. Once you’ve
set up camp at this
Showers | Groceries | Fishing | Yurts/tent cabins/cabins |
northeastern Oregon
lake, you may want
to spend a few hours
gazing at the sapphire
water reflecting the
surrounding Wallowa
Mountains. After that,
you have heaps of
choices: hiking, fishing,
swimming, a tram ride
to the summit of Mt.
Howard, and art shop-
ping in nearby Joseph,
known as a bronze-
casting center. $20 tent,
$30 RV/trailer, $42
yurt; open year-round;
89 sites, 2 yurts;
oregonstateparks.org.
UTAH
Big Bend, Upper
Colorado River
Scenic Byway
WHY WE LOVE IT Dra-
matic sandstone cliffs
surround these 23
riverside campsites,
which can be tricky to
nab (they’re located
just 8 quick miles from
Moab on State 128).
The popularity is fully
justified: A sandy beach
(good for swimming)
and canyon vistas make
each site feel like a true
desert oasis. $15; open
year-round; no potable
water; vault toilets; no
reservations; on.doi.
gov/1GoFY9f.
WASHINGTON
Deer Park, Olym-
pic National Park
WHY WE LOVE IT
Get a true backcountry
feeling without ditch-
ing your car. At the
meadowed 14 sites of
the highest campground
in Olympic (at 5,400
feet), you’ll likely be out-
numbered by ungulates.
The short jaunt up near-
by Blue Mountain nets
360° views of jawbone
peaks and the Strait of
RV/Trailer accessible |
Juan de Fuca. And sum-
mer stargazing doesn’t
get much better. $10;
$15/vehicle; Jun–Sep;
no potable water; vault
toilets; no reservations;
nps.gov/olym.
Jones Island
State Park
WHY WE LOVE IT Want
San Juan Islands beach-
front, all to yourself?
The two rustic sites on
the west side of this
188-acre island are
set aside for human- or
wind-powered arrivals
only, so they’re perfect-
ly quiet (except for the
bark of sea lions). And
the firepit—on a bluff,
with logs for benches—is
like a box seat for spec-
tacular sunsets. From
$12; open year-round
(potable water May–
Sep); 24 sites; vault
toilets; no reservations;
parks.wa.gov.
WYOMING
Jenny Lake, Grand
Teton National
Park
WHY WE LOVE IT
Jenny Lake is undoubt-
edly one of the most
beautiful lakes in the
world. The 49 sites
aren’t directly on the
water—instead you
camp among pines
and grab views of the
Tetons, then walk a
few yards to see the
astonishingly beautiful
lake. The campground
is near the visitor center,
with great trail access.
In summer, get here by
7 to nab a spot. $23;
$25/vehicle park entry;
open May 9–Sep 27;
no reservations; nps.
gov/grte.
—Kelly Bastone, Ann
Marie Brown, Peter Fish
& Evelyn Spence
Dogs
Adventure to go
You want to camp—but you’re not sure about the whole tent thing.
These compact trailers may be just what you’re looking for.
BY JESS CHAMBERLAIN | PHOTOGRAPH BY THOMAS J. STORY

BLUE SKIES! MOUNTAIN PEAKS! You’ve heard the call of the wilderness. (Okay, in 2015, it’s probably the text of the
wilderness.) Still, you have doubts. Even with the cool gear highlighted on our Camp Sunset pages, you think,
PROP STYLING: GENA SIGALA

Tent ... sleeping on or near the ground ... no. And that’s fine. You don’t have to go all John-Muir-on-a-mountain-
top to enjoy the Western outdoors. A new fleet of compact travel trailers can help you sleep comfortably from
California’s Big Sur to Wyoming’s Wind River Range. You can choose from solar-powered teardrops to vintage-in-
spired stand-ups. Many are lightweight enough to be towed by a car; some require a truck or SUV. Undeniably
cute, they aren’t necessarily cheap: Price equivalents go from “second car” to “second home.” But you can find
models to rent. And if you fall in love with one and decide to buy it, think of it as your cabin on wheels.
 COLORADO TEARDROPS

With its sleek design and birch interi-

or paired with a heavy-duty axle
and off-road tires, the Canyonland
Teardrop by Boulder-based Colorado
Teardrops offers cozy shelter for
the rugged outdoors. The solar-
power package includes a 65-watt
solar panel that powers the hatchback
kitchen galley LED lights, interior
cabin lights, and vent fan. From
$10,700, solar upgrade $1,100; sleeps
2; coloradoteardropcamper.com. RENT IT: The Basecamp Teardrop
(shown) is available in the Boulder area and includes a queen-size
memory foam mattress and an ice cooler, water tank, and camp
stove for the galley kitchen. $83/day.

CRICKET TRAILER HAPPIER CAMPER

The Cricket gives you NASA- The just-launched HC1 trailer

inspired design with integrat-
ed plumbing and electrical
and plenty of storage. The
standard pop-top comes with
space for a queen bed, interior
sink, water heater, exterior
shower, and battery power to
keep you off the grid for up
to five days. The new sport
edition offers higher ground
clearance and a roof rack.
From $21,700; sleeps 2 adults,
2 kids; crickettrailer.com.
by Los Angeles–based Happi-
er Camper is built of durable
and ultralightweight fiber-
glass. The interior’s modular
cube system allows you to
configure your own space;
customizations include a
kitchenette with sink, stove,
and refrigerator. From
$15,000; sleeps 3–5; happier
camper.com. RENT IT: Available
in the Los Angeles area.
$125/day.

FEAT URE D
ON OUR
COV ER DUB BOX USA

Remember those VW camper vans

HÜTTE HUT
Whether perched on a coastal campsite or parked in your
backyard as a high-design guest cottage, the Hut will have
neighbors gawking. In design, it recalls the work of Charles
and Ray Eames; in price tag, the Tesla. The Carpinteria, Cali-
fornia–based company uses a Joubert Okoume marine ply-
wood exterior, Baltic birch interior, and a waterproof cotton
canvas canopy. Interior lighting, outlets, USB ports, and a
full-size futon come standard. Orders are being taken now
for a summer launch. From $63,900; sleeps 2; huttehut.com.
so ubiquitous in the 1960s and ’70s?
Oregon-based Dub Box USA’s trailer
design pays homage to those homely,
winning vehicles and adds modern
conveniences. The fiberglass-mold
trailer comes with a pop-top; a full-size
convertible couch; a kitchenette with a
two-burner stove, refrigerator, and
hot/cold faucet; and an outdoor show-
er. Options include berths for children,
solar panels, and heating. Flooring, paint, fabric, and cabinet finish can
be customized. From $22,000; sleeps 2 adults, 2 kids; dub-box-usa.com.

SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 87
 It may look like
it’s all play, but this
creative home is
built tough
for the family of
six inside.

F
88 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ SUNSET
 >>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>

>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>

>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

BY CHRISTINE CIARMELLO PHOTOGR APHS BY THOMAS J. STORY ST YLING BY MICHAEL WALTERS

 “It’s
when I walk in the front door,” says Jody Brettkelly. How many mothers of four can say
that about their home? In fact, the 1940s Oakland two-story Jody shares with her hus-
band, Kevin, and their kids is (mostly) a chaos-free zone. They’re not perfectionists;
they just chose furniture and materials that stand up to real life with their children,

like a ages 11 to 17—and all their friends. “We often have up to 15 children here,” Jody says.
Seven years ago, the 3,500-square-foot home was featureless, dark, and divided
into many little rooms. Jody, who is from New Zealand and writes the lifestyle blog
About Last Weekend, hired architects Russ Dotter and Wencke Solfjeld to help

big
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> with the remodel. They counseled her to think two years ahead when designing for
kids. With that in mind, Jody ditched her plan for a play structure and instead in-
stalled artificial grass for soccer games, used durable materials throughout the
home, and converted an attached garage into a rec room that could grow with her

exhale
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> children. The couple also created a big open space that stretches from the kitchen
and living room out into the backyard. When they host “barbies,” as Jody calls
their barbecues, they pull their rattan furniture outside and watch the kids play.
ARCHITECTS Russ Dotter and Wencke Solfjeld, Oakland; dottersolarchitects.com.

90 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ SUNSET
 Front exterior
To modernize the
home’s façade
(page 89), the archi-
tects beefed up the
window trim and
added chartreuse ac-
cents. Concrete steps
replaced the busy red
bricks that formerly
led from the street to
the front door.

Kitchen
Jody knew the kitchen
(opposite) would be
the family’s prime
hangout spot, so she
gave it the feel of a
living room by swap-
ping overhead cabi-
nets for windows,
hanging art, and hid-
ing the appliances
around the corner.
Every surface (the
laminate drawers,
quartz countertops,
and plastic bar
chairs) is virtually
indestructible.

Entryway
Right away, the rope-
covered chest and sea
anemone–esque silk
light fixture in the en-
try (top left) signal
this house isn’t afraid
to have fun. To update
the circular staircase,
Jody had the existing
wood spindles cov-
ered with drywall.

Sitting room
Accordion-style glass
doors connect the sit-
ting room (left), kitch-
en, and dining room
BUILDER: STEVE STRAND (STRANDBUILDERS.COM)

to the backyard, mak-

ing it easy to drag
the furniture back and
forth. “We wanted
to open the home
up to the light,” says
Jody, who works at
the built-in desk in this
room. “Even when the
doors are closed, the
view makes it feel like
a vacation house.”
“ We wanted
to open
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

the home
up to the
light.” >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

—HOMEOWNER JODY BRET TKELLY

DIGITAL BONUS Get Jody’s list of kid-proof floors, fabrics, and plants: sunset.com/kidproof.
Kids’ zone Master bedroom Living room Picture window Backyard
The TV room (oppo- The family stole Since they have a sit- In the living room, Artificial grass is the
site, top left) is the space from the mas- ting room, the living a large window backyard’s MVP.
children’s headquar- ter bedroom (oppo- room (opposite, bot- frames a leather pet- “The faux lawn looks
ters, especially when site, top right) for tom) is free to be a al chair and ottoman as it did the day it
they have friends a new laundry room, more formal space. (left). This is the spot was installed,” Jody
over. It has its own but Jody doesn’t It’s filled with pieces where the family says, despite five
bathroom, a section- mind the smaller, that remind Jody of goes for quiet—and years of soccer
al covered with pared-down look. the South Pacific, where Jody practices games and rough-
hospital-grade fabric It has the essentials including a bark yoga uninterrupted. housing. Nearby, a
for easy cleaning, for relaxing: a cloth from Tonga. Its Outside, she plans swath of pavement
and a sliding door nestlike woven bed, graphic design is set to install sculptures serves as both an out-
that lets out to the an ocean-inspired off by a white leather to make the most door dining room and
basketball court. blue wall color, sofa, which can be of the view. a basketball court.
and a view of San wiped clean, and The yard is rimmed
Francisco. a Frank Gehry card- with low-water plants
board chair. that remind her of
New Zealand.

SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 93
 BECAUSE SOMEDAY

My money will work for me.

Alert: Attachment: Reminder:
Fidelity Meeting Retirement Today
Income Plan

SAVE
Put some certainty in your
retirement lifestyle with a
guaranteed stream of income.
One simple investment gives you cash flow for as long as you want –
or as long as you live.

Call to talk with a Fidelity representative about your retirement plan.

Every someday needs a plan SM

Fidelity.com/income
866.616.0064

Investing in a variable annuity involves risk of loss -- investment returns, contract value, and for variable income annuities, payment amount is not
guaranteed and will fluctuate. A contract’s financial guarantees are solely the responsibility of and are subject to the claims-paying ability of the issuing
insurance company.
Before investing, consider the investment objectives, risks, charges, and expenses of the annuity and its investment options. Call or write to Fidelity or
visit Fidelity.com for a free prospectus or, if available, summary prospectus containing this information. Read it carefully.
Fixed income annuities available at Fidelity are issued by third-party insurance companies, which are not affiliated with any Fidelity Investments company.
These products are distributed by Fidelity Insurance Agency, Inc.
Keep in mind that investing involves risk. The value of your investment will fluctuate over time and you may gain or lose money.
Fidelity Brokerage Services LLC, Member NYSE, SIPC. © 2015 FMR LLC. All rights reserved. 712138.3.0
 Food & Drink
No sharing
required
MINI RHUBARB
GINGER CROSTATAS
p. 96

PEAK
SEASON

READY FOR
RHUBARB
Discover three new ways
to enjoy this sweet,
tangy fruit.
FOOD STYLING: ROBYN VALARIK; PROP STYLING: EMMA STAR JENSEN

Photographs by I A I N BAGW E L L SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 95

Food & Drink

MINI RHUBARB PEAK SEASON

GINGER CROSTATAS
MAKES 8 / 1 1⁄4 HOURS, PLUS 30 MINUTES TO CHILL
The filling in these pies is on the tart side, so they’re especially
good with vanilla ice cream. Semolina flour in the dough is
optional but adds complexity and crunch.

DOUGH CROSTATAS
11⁄ 2 cups flour (all-purpose; or 1 qt. rhubarb sliced 1⁄ 3 in. thick
use 1⁄ 2 cup semolina* and (from 1 lb.)
1 cup all-purpose) 1⁄ 2 cup plus 2 tbsp. demerara

3 tbsp. granulated sugar sugar*; or use 1⁄ 2 cup packed

1⁄ 2 cup cold unsalted butter, cut light brown sugar plus 2 tbsp.
into chunks coarse white sparkling sugar
1 large egg yolk 1 tbsp. grated fresh ginger
1⁄4 cup cold whipping cream 1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tbsp. whipping cream

1. Make dough: Put flour, granulated sugar, and butter in a food

processor and pulse until butter resembles coarse crumbs. Add
egg yolk and pulse until combined. Add cream 1 tbsp. at a time
and pulse until dough begins to come together. Transfer to a
work surface and gently knead to bring together. Divide dough
in half, shape each into a 1/2-in.-thick disk, and wrap in plastic
wrap. Chill until firm, 30 to 60 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, make crostata filling: Toss rhubarb, 1/2 cup demer-
ara sugar, the ginger, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Set aside
about 15 minutes for flavors to meld. Spoon half of mixture into
a saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, un-
til slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir into rhubarb in bowl
and let cool completely.
3. Preheat oven to 375°. Roll a dough disk into a 10-in. circle on
a lightly floured board. Cut 4 circles (each 5 in. wide; you can
use a cereal bowl as a guide) and transfer to a rimmed baking
sheet lined with parchment paper. Repeat with remaining
disk and a second sheet, gathering dough and rerolling scraps
as needed. Brush off any flour left on dough.
4. Using a slotted spoon, pile rhubarb (but not juices) in center of
each circle. Gently pleat edges of dough over fruit; spoon juices
into center. Lightly brush edges with cream and sprinkle all over
with remaining 2 tbsp. demerara sugar.
5. Bake, switching baking sheet positions halfway through, until
fruit is tender and bubbling, about 35 minutes. Immediately
transfer crostatas with a wide spatula to a cooling rack. Serve
warm or at room temperature.
*Find semolina and demerara sugar, a tan, coarse-grained sugar with
a toffee nuance, in the baking aisle of well-stocked supermarkets.

PER CROSTATA 320 Cal., 44% (141 Cal.) from fat; 3.5 g protein; 16 g fat (9.7 g sat.);
42 g carbo (1.4 g fiber); 12 mg sodium; 70 mg chol. LC/LS/V

By ROMNEY STEELE
PROSCIUTTO
PANINI with
RHUBARB RELISH
SERVES 2 TO 4 / 25 MINUTES
These salty-sweet sandwiches are nicely
sized for sharing, but you may wind up
splurging and eating a whole one. A pie
pan topped with cans of food makes a great
improvised panini press.

2 francese or ciabatta rolls (each about 4 oz.

and 3 by 5 in.); or use 2 rectangles (each
3 by 5 in.) cut from a ciabatta loaf
11⁄ 2 tbsp. olive oil, divided
11⁄ 2 cups shredded mixed fontina and
gruyère cheeses, or sharp white cheddar
3 oz. thinly sliced prosciutto or ham
1 green onion, sliced
Rhubarb Relish (recipe at right)
1 tbsp. grated parmesan cheese
1⁄ 2 cup arugula leaves

1. Split rolls horizontally and lightly brush

cut sides of bottom halves with a little oil.
Layer them with shredded cheeses, pro-
sciutto, and onion. Spread 1/4 cup relish
on each top half and set on sandwiches.
2. Heat a heavy medium frying pan, prefer-
ably cast iron, over medium heat. Lightly
brush pan with oil. Add sandwiches and
reduce heat to medium-low. Set a pie pan RHUBARB RELISH
on sandwiches and top with 4 medium MAKES 1 CUP / 20 MINUTES
cans of food. Cook, gently pressing down Try this gently spicy relish alongside roasted or grilled meats, or with a cheese plate.
on cans every so often, until sandwiches
are golden brown on underside, 4 to 3 tbsp. apple cider vinegar 1. In a medium saucepan, combine 1/4 cup water, the
1⁄ 3 cup packed light brown sugar vinegar, brown sugar, cinnamon, chile, mustard
7 minutes.
1⁄ 2 cinnamon stick seeds, lime zest, and salt. Bring to a simmer over
3. Remove pie pan and cans. Brush sand-
1⁄ 2 small dried red chile, broken medium-high heat. Add 1 cup rhubarb, reduce heat
wich tops with a little more oil and
sprinkle with parmesan. Turn over, re- into pieces to medium, and cook until fruit begins to break
1⁄ 2 tsp. yellow mustard seeds down, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in remaining 1 cup rhu-
place pie pan and cans, and cook, press-
ing on cans again, until cheese is melted Zest of 2 limes barb and cook until it’s just tender, about 5 minutes
and second side is nicely browned, 2 to Pinch of kosher salt more; you want to leave fruit a little chunky.
3 minutes. 2 cups rhubarb cut into 1⁄ 2-in. 2. Remove from heat, stir in dry mustard, and add
4. Cut sandwiches in half and tuck in aru- chunks (about 4 stalks) pepper to taste. Remove cinnamon and let cool.
gula. Serve with remaining relish. 1 tsp. dry mustard MAKE AHEAD Up to 3 days, chilled.
Cracked pepper
PER HALF SANDWICH 492 Cal., 42% (207 Cal.) from fat; PER 1⁄4-CUP SERVING 97 Cal., 5% (5 Cal.) from fat; 1 g protein; 0.5 g fat
27 g protein; 23 g fat (10 g sat.); 47 g carbo (2.6 g fiber); (0 g sat.); 23 g carbo (1.6 g fiber); 31 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/VG
1,191 mg sodium; 62 mg chol.
Food & Drink

ROASTED RHUBARB
with RED WINE
and SPICES
SERVES 4 / 1 HOUR
This dessert gets its exotic touch from
star anise, a licorice-y seasoning that’s
used in Vietnamese cooking. Find it in
your supermarket’s spice aisle.

1⁄ 2
cup sugar
1⁄ 2
vanilla bean, split lengthwise and seeds
scraped out with a knife tip and reserved
2 star anise, each broken into 2 or 3 pieces
2 tsp. orange zest
1 lb. rhubarb, ends trimmed
1 cup fruity red wine, such as Grenache
Pepper
12 to 16 meringue cookies (11⁄ 2 to 2 in. wide)
About 1⁄ 2 cup crème fraîche, sweetened to taste
3 tbsp. chopped roasted, salted pistachios

1. Preheat oven to 375°. In a 9-in. square bak-

ing pan, toss sugar, vanilla bean and seeds,
star anise, and orange zest to combine.
Halve rhubarb lengthwise, and if stalks are
large, split again lengthwise. Cut pieces
about 2 in. long on a diagonal and combine
with sugar mixture. Stir in wine along with
pepper to taste.
2. Bake until rhubarb is tender when pierced
but still holds its shape, 15 to 20 minutes.
With a slotted spoon, transfer rhubarb to
a shallow bowl; discard star anise.
3. Pour rhubarb juices into a small saucepan.
Tips for
Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cooks
simmer until reduced to 1/2 cup, 6 to 9 min- SHOP Ruby red stalks
get all the attention,
utes. Pour over rhubarb. Let cool, occasion- but depending on the
ally spooning syrup over fruit. variety, rhubarb may
4. Set meringues in bowls. Spoon fruit and also be green or pink.
It all tastes good. What-
syrup on top, discarding vanilla bean. Add ever color you find,
a spoonful of crème fraîche to each and choose stalks that feel
sprinkle with pistachios. crisp and heavy.
USE Trim any leaves
MAKE AHEAD Through step 3, chilled, up (they’re poisonous),
to 1 day. and don’t peel stalks,
since that’s where the
PER SERVING 381 Cal., 38% (144 Cal.) from fat; 4.2 g protein; color is. Cook rhubarb
16 g fat (8.5 g sat.); 55 g carbo (3.6 g fiber); 125 mg sodium; just until tender to
25 mg chol. LS/V retain its shape and
bright sheen.

98 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 The fast lane
from How do you get there? Ask for Alaska. If you’re passionate about
what you cook, satisfy your wildest desire with the enticing taste of succulent,
to and sustainable seafood harvested from the purest Alaskan waters.

For this Korean Soybean Cured Wild Alaska Salmon recipe and more
©2 014 Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute tempting seafood ideas go to wildalaskaseafood.com
 ADVERTISEMENT

FAMILY FUN
ZONE
School’s almost out. The sun is shining. Time for family fun (and frozen custard!)
to top the agenda. Grab your calendar, plot some adventures and discover which
DREYER’S frozen custard flavor matches your summer style—from backyard
laid-back to full speed ahead. How do you spell summer?
TM

WATER BABIES LAND TREKKERS PARTY PLANNERS

You’re always by the water. As temps
start climbing, splish, splash!
Go fishing at a local pier or pond
Rent canoes, kayaks or row boats
Set up sprinklers and water slides
Explorer is your middle name. You live From Fridays to sunsets and half-
to climb mountains and blaze trails. birthdays, too, you celebrate it all.
Go indoor rock climbing Picnic at a local park
Take a family nature hike Host a backyard grill-a-thon
Sign up for a 5K fun run Check out an outdoor concert

Your DREYER’S Match: Your DREYER’S Match: Your DREYER’S Match:

Salted Caramel Pretzel Peanut Butter Pie Mint Cookies N’ Cream
Also try: Old Fashioned Vanilla Also try: Chocolate Malt Also try: Peanut Butter Pie

........................ ........................ ........................

DO-GOODERS WILD ADVENTURISTS BEACH BUMS

Giving back is important to you, and
your kids, too.
Donate lemonade-stand profits to charity
Volunteer at a special-needs summer camp
Prepare bags of clothing to donate
Whether near or far, you get everyone You spend summers on the coast, resting
seeing and doing new things. and relaxing the whole time.
Hit an adventure or water park Collect seashells along the shore
Ride the state fair Ferris wheel Fly a kite or toss a baseball
Take a field trip to the zoo Make a wish in a bottle and send it to sea

Your DREYER’S Match: Your DREYER’S Match: Your DREYER’S Match:

Chocolate Malt Snickerdoodle Old Fashioned Vanilla
Also try: Old Fashioned Vanilla Also try: Mint Cookies N’ Cream Also try: Chocolate Malt

FUN FROZEN CUSTARD FACT:

Originally born of Coney Island, New York, this creamier cousin of ice cream rapidly
became a Midwest hit after appearing at the 1933 World’s Fair. Find your favorite flavor
at www.Dreyers.com/FrozenCustardStory

All trademarks are owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A., Vevey, Switzerland.
Food & Drink

MASTER CLASS

DIY YOGURT
Make your own and use it
to transform your cooking.
By Elaine Johnson

“YOU’LL NEVER HAVE fresher yogurt than

the yogurt you make yourself,” says Janet
Fletcher, author of Yogurt, Sweet and Savory
Recipes for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner (Ten
Speed Press). The author of more than two
dozen cookbooks, Fletcher has made great
ingredients her focus ever since her time as
a cook at Chez Panisse years ago. Yogurt,
she says, “fits in with my dairy obsession.”
By culturing your own yogurt, she ex-
plains, you can control its richness, tang,
and texture. And the process is just plain
fun: “It’s like magic,” she says. “Milk goes
in and yogurt comes out.” Fletcher calls
herself a “yogurt purist,” forgoing any sug-
ar or flavoring and using only whole milk
for a rich, buttery full flavor.
That luscious style of yogurt isn’t just
delicious by the spoonful—it lends itself to
all kinds of cooking too. Fletcher showed
us how to use yogurt at different thickness-
es to create a soup, an appetizer spread,
Culturing your own yogurt requires just
and a topping for chicken, all with her a little hands-on time, as Janet Fletcher
vibrant California spin. demonstrates in her Napa kitchen.

What you need

The culturing process (detailed on page 104) takes 5 to 12 hours—and the following ingredients and tools.
MILK Any fat level works, but
Fletcher prefers whole milk for the
way its creaminess balances yogurt’s
tang. Open just before using.
NONFAT DRY MILK Adding a little
creates thicker, more stable yogurt.
“STARTER YOGURT” This will con-
vert milk sugar (lactose) to lactic
acid. Use plain yogurt (ideally
whole-milk) with “live cultures” on
the ingredient list; open just before
using. You can save some of your
own yogurt to culture the next batch
if you make it at least once a week.
THERMOMETER Fletcher likes the
instant-read Super-Fast Thermapen
($96; thermoworks.com); or use
a clip-on candy thermometer.
JAR Use a clean wide-mouth quart
or liter canning jar for culturing.
A WARMER Have blankets or an
electric warmer, such as Brod &
Taylor Folding Proofer ($148; brod
andtaylor.com), on hand to keep
yogurt warm while it cultures.

102 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T Photographs by T H O M A S J. S T O RY
 ONLY AN AUTHENTIC CALIFORNIA AVOCADO CAN
MAKE AN AUTHENTIC CALIFORNIA CLUB. ALWAYS BE
SURE TO LOOK FOR CALIFORNIA ON THE LABEL TO
ENSURE THAT FRESH, HAND-CRAFTED FLAVOR.
FOR RECIPES AND MORE, VISIT CALIFORNIAAVOCADO.COM

©2015 California Avocado Commission

 THICK and 12 hours total). The longer it cultures,
the tarter it will taste. You may also get
liquid—the whey—forming around the

CREAMY YOGURT
MAKES 1 QT. / 35 MINUTES, PLUS 5 TO 12
curd. “I like it mellow, so I try to stop
it as soon as it’s set.”
A HOURS TO CULTURE AND 1 1⁄ 2 HOURS TO CHILL 7. Chill completely (11/2 hours) before serv-
To create a satiny yogurt, Fletcher uses ing for yogurt to firm up; otherwise, it
whole milk, adds dry milk to boost the will be too fragile.
protein, and heats it before culturing. MAKE AHEAD Keeps 1 week, chilled.

PER CUP 161 Cal., 46% (74 Cal.) from fat; 8.7 g protein;
1 qt. whole milk 8.2 g fat (4.7 g sat.); 13 g carbo (0 g fiber); 120 mg sodium;
2 tbsp. instant nonfat dry milk 26 mg chol. GF/LC/LS/V

2 tbsp. plain whole-milk yogurt with active

live cultures, at room temperature

1. Pour hot tap water into a clean wide-

GREEK-STYLE
mouth 1-qt. canning jar and set aside.
2. Whisk together whole milk and dry milk YOGURT
1 1⁄ 2 TO 3 CUPS (FROM 1 QT. YOGURT) / 1 TO
in a medium saucepan [A] . Heat over me-
2 1⁄ 2 HOURS
dium heat, whisking often, until milk
For a more voluptuous texture, Fletcher
reaches 195° on an instant-read ther-
B drains Thick and Creamy Yogurt to
mometer. Adjust heat to keep milk at 195°
release some of the liquid (whey). Line a
and cook, whisking often, 10 minutes.
strainer with a double thickness of regular
After heating, “you’re going to have
or synthetic cheesecloth (like reusable Ply-
a thicker, more stable curd,” Fletcher
ban, $14 for 20 sheets; getculture.com). Set
explains. Remove from heat.
strainer over a bowl and add 1 qt. yogurt
3. Set pan in a sink of ice and water and
(or less). Cover and chill. Let drain 1 to 21/2
cool to 115° [B] . “The milk cools fast,
hours, depending on how thick you like it.
so keep checking it. If it goes too low,
Serve with fruit or use it in recipes, such as
just reheat it.” (But don’t let it go above
the chicken on page 106.
118°, or it will kill the yogurt.)
4. Put yogurt in a small bowl and whisk in
about 1 cup hot milk [C] to temper it and
thin it out, then whisk this back into milk
in pan. Transfer milk to a container with
YOGURT CHEESE
a spout. Drain hot water from jar and
add hot milk mixture. Put lid on jar. (LABNE)
1 1⁄ 2 CUPS (FROM 1 QT. YOGURT) / 1 DAY
C 5. Incubate yogurt [D] . “I wrap it in a
kitchen towel so it doesn’t get my Drain Thick and Creamy Yogurt the
D blankets dirty, then set the jar in a same way as for Greek-Style Yogurt, ex-
blanket nest.” Fold a small blanket or tending the time to about 24 hours, until
beach towel in quarters, set on a counter, spreadable, stirring in 1/2 tsp. kosher salt
and fold sides up over yogurt. Snugly per qt. yogurt after 2 hours (it’s easier to
tuck 2 more folded blankets around the incorporate before the yogurt gets thick).
outside. Let yogurt sit undisturbed in a Flavor with garlic, herbs, or roasted pep-
draft-free place 5 hours. pers and serve as a dip or spread.
6. Unwrap and tilt jar gently to check if yo-
gurt is set. “It should be like a baked
DIGITAL BONUS Watch the Thick and
custard.” If not, rewrap and check in Creamy Yogurt come together: sunset.
another 1 to 2 hours (it may take up to com/yogurtvideo.
 Food & Drink

YOGURT CHEESE
with ROASTED
BEETS and FETA
CHILLED AVOCADO and YOGURT SOUP
SERVES 4 (MAKES 1 QT.) / 20 MINUTES, PLUS 30 MINUTES TO CHILL
SERVES 6 / 1 1⁄ 2 HOURS
This ultra-creamy, Middle Eastern–style
appetizer dip is also excellent with raw
This fresh Greek-inspired soup comes together in minutes. Buttermilk gives it a soupy cucumbers, says Fletcher.
consistency without changing the yogurt’s flavor.
Peel 11/2 lbs. roasted beets (half golden and
2 large firm-ripe avocados yogurt, chopped avocados, dill, chopped half red), slice, and put in separate bowls.
11⁄ 2 cups each buttermilk and Thick and mint, garlic, and chile until smooth. In a small bowl, whisk 2 tsp. red wine
Creamy Yogurt (opposite; or store-bought 2. Pour soup into a bowl. If you’d like it thin- vinegar with 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive
plain whole-milk yogurt) ner, stir in about 1/4 cup cold water. Stir oil, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1/4 tsp. kosher
1⁄4 cup chopped fresh dill in 11/2 tbsp. lemon juice and 1 tsp. salt. salt, and 3/4 tsp. fennel seeds, lightly toast-
2 tbsp. coarsely chopped fresh mint, plus Chill until very cold, 30 minutes. “It’s ed and ground. Add enough vinaigrette
small mint leaves or sprigs supposed to be refreshing, like chilled to each bowl of beets to coat. Combine 11/2
1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced borscht or gazpacho,” Fletcher says. cups Yogurt Cheese (Labne), homemade
1⁄ 2 jalapeño chile, seeded (or leave in seeds 3. Coarsely shred radishes. Cut reserved (opposite) or store-bought, with 2 minced
if you like heat) half avocado into small dice and sprinkle garlic cloves, 1/2 tsp. kosher salt, and 2
About 11⁄ 2 tbsp. lemon juice with a little salt and lemon juice. tsp. more oil. Spread yogurt cheese on a
About 1 tsp. kosher or sea salt 4. Taste soup and add more lemon juice platter and scatter 1/3 cup crumbled feta
3 radishes or salt if you like. Ladle into bowls. Place cheese on top. Drizzle generously with
Chunk of feta cheese a tuft of radishes and a small spoonful more oil. Sprinkle with roasted, salted
of avocado in center of each serving. pumpkin seeds and arrange beets next to
1. Halve, pit, and peel avocados and set Grate a little feta over soup and top with yogurt cheese. Sprinkle everything with
aside 1 half. Coarsely chop remaining av- mint leaves. Serve immediately (toppings zaatar* (a Middle Eastern spice blend) and
ocados. In a blender, whirl buttermilk, will sink). Aleppo pepper* or hot paprika. Serve
PER CUP 246 Cal., 63% (155 Cal.) from fat; 8.2 g protein; 17 g fat (4.1 g sat.); 18 g carbo (6.1 g fiber); 531 mg sodium; with pita bread. *Find at well-stocked gro-
13 mg chol. GF/LC/V cery stores and worldspice.com.

SUNSET ❖ M AY 2 0 1 5 105
Food & Drink

HARISSA-ROASTED
CHICKEN with
CHICKPEAS
SERVES 6 / 1 HOUR, PLUS 4 HOURS
TO MARINATE
Tangy yogurt meets bold harissa in the top-
ping for this gutsy chicken dish. Fletcher
adapted the recipe from one by her friend
Ed Blonz, author of the syndicated column
On Nutrition.

1⁄ 2
cup plain whole-milk Greek-style yogurt,
homemade (see page 104) or
store-bought
About 1⁄ 3 cup coarse harissa* from a jar,
such as Les Moulins Mahloub brand
1 tbsp. lemon juice
About 1 tsp. kosher or sea salt
Pepper
6 large bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
(2 lbs. total)
1 can (15 oz.) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 large red onion, halved lengthwise and
thinly sliced into half-moons
1 lb. carrots, peeled and sliced on the
diagonal about 1⁄4 in. thick
About 1⁄ 3 cup coarsely chopped cilantro

1. In a bowl, whisk yogurt, harissa, lemon

juice, 1 tsp. salt, and several grinds of
pepper. Add chicken; turn to coat. “It’s
a little dry to start, but there’s plenty
of fat that comes out of the chicken,”
Fletcher notes. Chill, covered, 4 to 8
hours. “The acid in the yogurt helps “It should even be charred in spots.”
tenderize the meat.” Remove from 3. Transfer chicken to a plate. Stir vegeta-
refrigerator 30 minutes before cooking. bles and add a splash of water if they
2. Preheat oven to 425° with a rack set in look dry. Bake until carrots are tender,
upper third. In a bowl, combine chick- 10 minutes longer. Stir in 1/3 cup cilantro.
peas, onion, and carrots. Season lightly 4. To serve, set chicken on vegetables and
with salt and toss to blend. Make a bed sprinkle with a little more cilantro.
of the vegetables in a 9- by 13-in. baking
*Find harissa, a Tunisian chile-and-spice
dish. With a rubber spatula, redistribute
paste, at well-stocked grocery stores. “Greek yogurt makes
marinade so it evenly covers both sides
of chicken. Set chicken on vegetables, PER SERVING 264 Cal., 34% (89 Cal.) from fat; a nice clingy coating
skin side up. Bake until chicken is 22 g protein; 9.9 g fat (2.8 g sat.); 17 g carbo (4.2 g fiber); with the harissa.”
449 mg sodium; 68 mg chol. LC/LS
deeply browned, about 45 minutes.
TIP

106 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
Food & Drink

FA S T & F R E SH

WEEKNIGHT COOKING
Recipes in 30 minutes or less

POACHED SALMON with

WHITE BEAN and RADISH SALAD
SERVES 4 / 20 MINUTES
The salmon takes almost no time to cook, so prep the
radishes and rosemary before the fish goes in the pan.
If your backyard rosemary is blooming, sprinkle on
a few blossoms before serving.

1 tsp. fennel seeds, crushed 1 can (15 oz.) cannellini

4 skinned sockeye salmon beans, drained and
fillets (6 oz. each) rinsed
2 cups reduced-sodium 8 to 10 small red and/or
chicken broth French Breakfast
1⁄ 2 cup dry white wine, radishes, very thinly
such as Pinot Grigio sliced
2 tsp. lemon juice 5 tbsp. olive oil, divided
1 rosemary sprig plus 11⁄ 2 tbsp. white wine
1 tsp. chopped fresh vinegar
rosemary leaves 1 tsp. minced garlic
1 bay leaf Salt and pepper
2 oz. baby spinach leaves Rosemary blossoms
(4 cups lightly packed) (optional)

1. Heat a wide, deep frying pan over medium-high heat.

Add fennel seeds and toast until fragrant. Arrange
salmon over toasted fennel and add broth, white
wine, lemon juice, rosemary sprig, and bay leaf. Bring
to a simmer, then cover and cook until salmon is no
longer translucent but still moist in the center, 2 to 4
minutes total. (It will continue to cook as it sits.)
2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, toss spinach, beans,
radishes, 1/4 cup oil, the vinegar, garlic, chopped
rosemary, and salt and pepper to taste. Divide salad
among 4 wide, shallow bowls. Gently lift salmon fil-
lets from poaching liquid and place each on a salad.
3. Pour about 1/2 cup poaching liquid into each bowl.
Drizzle salmon with remaining 1 tbsp. oil and sprin-
FOOD STYLING: KAREN SHINTO

kle with rosemary blossoms, if using.

PER SERVING 546 Cal., 50% (273 Cal.) from fat; 47 g protein; 31 g fat
(4.5 g sat.); 15 g carbo (5.3 g fiber); 294 mg sodium; 117 mg chol.
GF/LS

108 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T Photographs by ANNABELLE BREAKEY

Roasted Vegetables with Walnuts, Pomegranate Glazed Carrots
Basil & Balsamic Vinaigrette

FOR THE BEST SIMPLE VEGGIES EVER

A SPRINKLE OF CRUNCHY CALIFORNIA WALNUTS ADDS FLAVOR,
TEXTURE AND HEART HEALTHY* GOODNESS TO ALL YOUR FAVORITE RECIPES.
FOR THESE RECIPES AND MORE GO TO WALNUTS.ORG.

Per one ounce serving. So Simple. So Good.™

Heart-Check food certification does not apply to recipes unless expressly stated. See heartcheckmark.org/guidelines. walnuts.org

Green Beans with Olives, Sun-Dried Sweet & Spicy Brussels Sprouts
Tomatoes & Walnuts

* Supportive but not conclusive research shows that eating 1.5 ounces of walnuts per day as part of a low saturated fat and low cholesterol diet and not resulting in increased caloric intake may reduce the risk
of coronary heart disease. (FDA) One ounce of walnuts provides 18g of total fat, 2.5g of monounsaturated fat, 13g of polyunsaturated fat including 2.5g of alpha-linolenic acid – the plant based omega-3.
Food & Drink

DECONSTRUCTED EGG ROLLS

SERVES 4 / 30 MINUTES
A lumpia is a Filipino-style egg roll often filled with a
gingery mixture of pork and carrots. We’ve skipped the
rolling to make the dish speedier, added rice to make it
heartier, and ended up with something very tasty—call
it a Filipino tostada.

1 cup short-grain white rice 3 tbsp. reduced-sodium

(preferably sushi rice) soy sauce
Vegetable oil for frying 1⁄ 8 head cabbage, thinly

4 egg roll wrappers sliced to make about

(6 in. square) 1 cup
3 garlic cloves, chopped 3⁄4 cup coarsely shredded

1 tbsp. finely chopped carrots

fresh ginger 1⁄4 cup chopped cilantro

GRILLED STEAKS with 1 lb. ground pork

CELERY and ANCHOVY SALAD
SERVES 4 / 30 MINUTES
This is dinner for people who have big appetites (or are on the Paleo diet).
If you want less meat, just grill 2 steaks and cut them in half. Also, cutting the
celery by hand gives you neater, crisper pieces than if you use a handheld
slicer or a food processor.
1 can (2 oz.) oil-packed anchovies,
drained
2 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped
11⁄ 2 tsp. lemon zest
2 tbsp. lemon juice
1⁄4 to 1⁄ 2 tsp. red chile flakes
1⁄ 3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher or fine sea salt
4 boned beef rib-eye or New York
strip steaks (3⁄4 to 1 in. thick; about
21⁄ 2 lbs. total)
1⁄4 cup sliced almonds
3⁄4 lb. celery stalks (about 4 large),
ends and leaves trimmed
1⁄ 2 bunch flat-leaf parsley
1. Heat a grill to medium-high (450°).
Put anchovies, garlic, lemon zest
and juice, chile flakes, oil, and salt
to taste in a blender and blend
until smooth.
2. Put steaks on a rimmed baking
sheet and coat all over with 5 tbsp.
anchovy dressing. Set aside.
3. Toast almonds in a frying pan over
medium heat, stirring or tossing
often, until golden brown, 4 to 5
minutes. Meanwhile, slice celery
very thinly on the diagonal and put
in a large bowl.
4. Grill steaks, covered, turning once,
6 to 8 minutes total for medium-
rare. Meanwhile, hold parsley
bunch like a bouquet, turn it
upside down, and whack off leaves
with a sharp knife. Remove coarse
stems and add leaves to celery.
5. Toss celery, parsley, and almonds
with all but 1 tbsp. dressing. Driz-
zle steaks with remaining dressing
and serve with salad.
PER SERVING 761 Cal., 63% (478 Cal.) from fat;
63 g protein; 54 g fat (15 g sat.); 5.3 g carbo
(2.1 g fiber); 595 mg sodium; 246 mg chol. GF
2 tsp. fish sauce
plus a few leaves for
garnish
3 tbsp. lime juice
1. Cook rice according to package instructions. Heat
about 1/2 in. oil in a large frying pan over medium-
high heat until oil begins to ripple. Fry wrappers,
one at a time, until golden on both sides, about
1 minute per side. Drain wrappers on paper towels.
2. Carefully drain all but 2 tbsp. oil from pan, add gar-
lic and ginger, and cook until fragrant and softened,
30 seconds to 1 minute. Add pork and fish sauce, and
cook until pork is brown and crisp at the edges, 5 to
7 minutes, breaking up pieces with a wooden spoon.
3. Whisk together lime juice and soy sauce in a small
bowl. In a large bowl, toss cabbage, carrots, and
chopped cilantro with 1 tbsp. soy sauce mixture.
4. Divide crisp egg roll wrappers among 4 plates. Top
each with rice and pork. Mound carrot-cabbage slaw
on pork and sprinkle with a few cilantro leaves. Serve
with remaining soy sauce mixture for drizzling.
PER SERVING 640 Cal., 49% (314 Cal.) from fat; 26 g protein; 35 g fat
(10 g sat.); 56 g carbo (2.7 g fiber); 838 mg sodium; 82 mg chol.

Pair the steaks with … a tradition-busting blend of Cabernet and

Syrah. The big structure of Cab is made for beef, and the wild-herb quality
of Syrah handles even the anchovies. GREAT PICK: Casey Flat Ranch 2011
“Open Range Red” (California; $18).

Recipes by ADEENA SUSSMAN, MARGO TRUE & STEPHANIE SPENCER

 Food & Drink

In the SUNSET KITCHEN TIPS FROM

OUR TEAM

“Our favorite camp cooking

tricks and ingredients work
at home too.”
ELAINE JOHNSON, SENIOR FOOD EDITOR

INGREDIENT OF
THE MONTH

CALABRIAN
CHILES
Once we tried hobo
bundles (page 72)
made with medium-
spicy long pickled S U M M E R S N AC K
Calabrian chiles
($7.79/10 oz. ; C U S TO M I Z E I T COOL
KEBABS
supermarketitaly.
com), we wanted any Build a better s’more To give the youngest
members of Camp Sun-

excuse to dive into
the rest of the jar.
For starters: Chop
and spoon them over
scrambled eggs,
smear them on
pizza, or tuck them
into a sandwich.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THOMAS J. STORY (2), ANNABELLE BREAKEY (FOOD STYLING: KAREN SHINTO)
When the stars came out at Camp Sunset, we got down to some delicious field-
set something to snack
work around the fire. We made sure we were prepared, packing fancy chocolate on while the adults en-
and flavored marshmallows along with regular graham crackers. Our favorite joyed cocktail hour, we
combo: fruity Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate Belize Toledo ($8.50/2 oz.; dicktaylor made kebabs threaded
on mini knotted skewers
chocolate.com) and toasted coconut Plush Puffs ($6.49/4 oz.; plushpuffs.com). For (from $3/bag of 100;
roasting, we especially like the Rolla Roaster extendable forks (shown above; pickonus.com). Here are
$13/set of 2; rei.com). They give you more distance from the fire than most sticks— a few ideas that will
make everybody happy.
and are handy for hot dogs too.
Green grapes + regular
mozzarella cheese

TO P TOO L Strawberries + peaches

(coat peaches in a
Food prep bowls little lemon juice to
Although it’s intended for poaching eggs, prevent browning)
the flexible silicone PoachPod makes
Basil leaves +
a perfect-size, unbreakable prep container teardrop tomatoes +
for chopped herbs, garlic, or spices in fresh mozzarella
camp or at home. Find it with housewares
Persian cucumber +
at well-stocked grocery stores and at seasoned
fusionbrands.com ($10/set of 2). cooked chicken

112 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T
 A SUNSET ADVERTISING PROMOTION

YOUR GUIDE TO THE

BEST OF THE WEST
The first-ever Sunset Travel Awards
honors excellence and innovation across
the Western United States and Canada.
Winners in categories from best Beach Town to
best Cultural Attraction to best Hotel for Pets
will be announced in our June issue and showcased
at Sunset’s Celebration Weekend, June 6-7 in
Menlo Park, CA.
DISCOVER OUR FINALISTS IN ALL CATEGORIES AT
sunset.com/travelawards

SPONSORED BY
 Food & Drink

In the SUNSET KITCHEN

from
PAUL
PASTINA
Richmond, CA

WINNING READER RECIPE

ORZO with SESAME and PEAS

Paul Pastina was looking for something colorful and light to serve with chicken and fish
when he came up with this quick dish infused with Asian flavors.
SERVES 4 / 20 MINUTES

1 cup orzo pasta 1 tbsp. each minced fresh ginger, soy sauce,
1 cup fresh sugar-snap peas, cut into 2-in. and rice vinegar
pieces, or 3⁄4 cup frozen peas 2 tbsp. toasted sesame oil
ANNABELLE BREAKEY (FOOD STYLING: KAREN SHINTO)

1⁄4 cup toasted sesame seeds 1⁄ 2 cup chopped cilantro

1. Cook orzo according to package instructions, adding peas in the last 2 minutes.
2. Drain orzo and combine with remaining ingredients.

PER SERVING 287 Cal., 35% (101 Cal.) from fat; 8.7 g protein; 11 g fat (1.7 g sat.); 39 g carbo (3.9 g fiber);
337 mg sodium; 0 mg chol. LS/VG

Send us your best recipe! If published, you earn $250. sunset.com/submitrecipe.

114 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ SUNSET
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Food & Drink

SIP

Top hops
and where
to taste them
Azacca
Ecliptic Brewing,
Portland
Intense citrus and
pineapple flavors
make this hop from
Washington’s Yakima
Valley a new favorite
with West Coast
brewers.
TRY: Phobos Single
Hop Red Ale.

Calypso
Stone Brewing Co.,
Escondido, CA
A rare hop in that it’s
used to add both
flavor and aroma to
beer. Gives off floral
notes, plus hints of
lemon, apple, and
bitter orange.
TRY: Stone Enjoy
By IPA.

HOPPY DAYS The West’s brewers are playing with hops

to create a better IPA. By Nino Padova
Galaxy
Anchorage Brewing
Company, Anchorage
This Aussie-grown
variety is generally
used late in the fer-
THE FIRST CRAFT BEER I ever drank was an IPA (India pale punch. And getting your hands on those is a lot tougher
mentation to provide
ale) smuggled from a friend’s older brother’s minifridge. than raiding the minifridge: The most popular strains tropical aromas like
It tasted bitter and pungent and, to my Michelob- can sell out three years in advance. So the first question passion fruit. TRY:
enlightened palate, unfit for immoderate teenage con- Stechschulte asks new brewers is this: “Did you sign a Galaxy White IPA.
sumption. I swore it off. But when I tried it years later, I hops contract yet?” Jarrylo
loved it: the golden orange color, the bold hoppy flavors. With everyone hustling for the same handful of Ninkasi Brewing Co.,
Now this was an adult beverage, I told myself. I never hops, beermakers have begun experimenting with Eugene, OR
Named after the
looked back. new varieties, creating brews that emphasize a whole Russian god of
Neither has craft beer. In 1965, there was a single craft arsenal of different flavors. Where once it seemed fertility, this high-acid
brewery operating in the United States. Today there are like all IPAs fell somewhere between piney and more hop delivers spicy
and fruity notes like
more than 3,000, with a new one popping up every 1.5 piney, these brews are opening up the game, highlight- banana and pear.
days (San Francisco alone will debut 13 breweries this ing floral and tropical notes as well as a focused atten- TRY: Jarrylo Single
year). Not since the Grant administration have there tion on aroma. Many of the beers I sampled were Hop Ale.
been as many breweries in as many places making as big and full on the nose, but drank lighter than the IPAs Motueka
many styles of beer. And the reigning king of all craft I was accustomed to, the hops more of an accent than Cellarmaker Brewing
beers, you ask? IPA—by a mile. an exclamation. Company, San
Francisco
“The big question now is, can supply keep up with Much of the experimentation is happening on a small With its clean, tropi-
demand?” says Brian Stechschulte, director of the scale, making it difficult to pinpoint when a brewery cal flavors, this New
FOOD STYLING: KAREN SHINTO

San Francisco Brewer’s Guild. Of immediate concern will release a new-hop beer and for how long that beer Zealand hop is a
perfect fit for pilsners
is the availability of hops, the bitter flowers used to fla- will be available. We advise checking brewery websites and lagers. But now
vor some of your preferred brews. More than 100 hop for special releases and talking to taproom and bottle- brewers are using it
varieties are on the market—and many others are in shop owners near you. In the meantime, at right are in IPAs too. Expect to
taste lots of lively
development—but only a few (like Citra, Mosaic, and some of our favorite new-hop varieties and the brewer- lemon and lime.
Simcoe) give West Coast–style IPA its characteristic ies putting them to delicious use. TRY: Taco Hands .

116 M AY 2 0 1 5 ❖ S U N S E T Photograph by ANNABELLE BREAKEY

 A SUNSET ADVERTISING PROMOTION
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Cook in Nature’s Kitchen
THE GREAT OUTDOORS COOKBOOK has everything you need to experience the ultimate outdoor cooking
adventure — whether at a campsite, on the beach, or in your backyard — with menu planning and packing
tips, advice on equipment, and thoroughly tested recipes that are surprising, delicious, and fun to make.

Plus, learn from our expert live-fire cooks in our video companion course!
Visit Curious.com/sunsetmagazine

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 ASK SUNSET
H AV E A Q UE S T I O N A B O U T L I F E I N T H E W E S T ? W E H AV E T H E A N S W E R S .

Q: My fantasy
is to get away
with my family
for a few days
to a cabin in the woods, with
a lake nearby but otherwise
nothing much to do besides
run around in nature. Can I
find such a place within a
five-hour drive? —BETHANY
HANSON, OAKLAND

DEAR BETHANY Far Meadow, a

small collection of cabins in the
Sierra National Forest, is your
dream come true. The Base
Camp cabin sits on 5 wild, emp-
ty acres 12 miles from Yosem-
ite’s south entrance, with other
properties farther east, above
Bass Lake. All the accommoda-
tions are stylish and remote,
with ample opportunity to
swim, fish, hike, or stargaze …
and happily, that’s about all
(far-meadow.com). For a place Q: I’d like a water-wise garden, but I can’t picture my 1925
with a few more conveniences Cape Cod–style cottage surrounded by succulents. Please suggest
(including an on-site restau- some landscaping ideas that won’t sacrifice period charm. —KIMBERLY CAMPBELL, GLENDALE, CA
rant), Sorensen’s Resort, south
of Lake Tahoe, is a charming
option (sorensensresort.com). DEAR KIMBERLY Many low-water plants will provide the lush cottage-garden look you want. English lavender
is the classic example. Other tough charmers for where you live (in Sunset climate zone 20) include lion’s tail,
penstemon, rockrose (Cistus), Santa Barbara daisy, and Santolina; thirsty lawn can be replaced with a carpet
of Dymondia margaretae or buffalo grass. The garden above (gdsdesigns.com), for example, looks right at home
in front of a traditional house, yet is fresh, modern, and water-wise, with bands of blue Senecio mandraliscae,
golden Stipa tenuissima, and ‘Big Red’ kangaroo paws framing the entry. (See page 39 for more inspiring ideas.)

Q: I’m plan- DEAR JUDY Here’s a surefire driving loop to great sips

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ART GRAY, TABLAS CREEK VINEYARD, DAVID FENTON
and sights: From U.S. 101 in Paso Robles, go west on
ning a trip State 46, north on Vineyard Drive, and on to Adelai-
with my husband da Road. Ramble through oak-dotted hills past fine
that incorporates our wineries, and two in particular. At Tablas Creek Vine-
interests in wine and yard (9339 Adelaida; tablascreek.com), stop to taste
photography. Where Rhône blends, picnic on a splendid patio, and tour
can we go in Paso the vineyard (twice daily, reserve in advance). Then
Robles, California, to hit Halter Ranch Vineyard (8910 Adelaida; halter
find both good wine ranch.com). Snap shots of the Victorian ranch build-
and beautiful things ings or state-of-the-art winery (tours on weekends,
to photograph? reserve in advance), and sample the signature “An-
An A-frame in the —JUDY GORHAM, cestor” blend. Finally, wander east back to town on
wilderness at Far Meadow. VANCOUVER, WA Adelaida, pulling over for photo ops as necessary.

Email your questions about Western gardening, travel, food, wine, or home design to asksunset@sunset.com.

SUNSET (ISSN 0039-5404) is published monthly in regional and special editions by Sunset Publishing Corporation, 80 Willow Rd., Menlo Park, CA 94025. Periodicals postage paid at Menlo Park and at additional mailing
offices. Vol. 234, No. 5. Printed in U.S.A. Copyright © 2015 Sunset Publishing Corporation. All rights reserved. Member Audit Bureau of Circulations. Sunset, The Magazine of Western Living, The Pacific Monthly, Sunset’s
Kitchen Cabinet, The Changing Western Home, and Chefs of the West are registered trademarks of Sunset Publishing Corporation. No responsibility is assumed for unsolicited submissions. Manuscripts, photographs, and
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