BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology

(BUFT)

Course Title: Apparel Manufacturing Engineering-II (lab)

Course Code: TEX3204
Experiment No: 02
Experiment Name: Study on different industrial sewing machine and function
of different parts of a plain sewing machine.
Sec-TE(2A)

Lab Report

Submitted to: Submitted by: (Group-3)

Taslima Ahmed Tamanna ID. 191-060-801 (Faria Afrin)
Lecturer, BUFT 191-097-801 (T. M. Ashikur Rahman)
Department of TE 191-101-801 (MD. Al Amin Khan Anik)
191-113-801 (Mehedi Hasan Moon)
191-117-801 (Md. Ariful Islam)

Date:27-09-2021
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 ID:191-117-801
Experiment No: 02
Experiment Name: Study on different industrial sewing machine and function of different
parts of a plain sewing machine.

Introduction: A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and other pliable materials together
with threads. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease
the quantum of manual sewing done in garment industries. Since its invention, it has greatly
improved the efficiency and productivity of the fabric, garment and needle industries. The
different parts of a sewing machine and its functions help the Operator to know the functioning
of a sewing machine. There are different types of sewing machine used in the manufacturing of
garments and other articles. The sewing machine device was invented in 1790 by English
inventor, Thomas Saint, but he could not advertise his invention. He designed a wooden awl to
make holes in leather and canvas, thus allowing a needle and single piece of thread through to
hook underneath, and forming locked chain stitches. Josef Madersperger began developing the
sewing machine in 1807 and he presented the working machine in 1814.From this experiment,
we are going to know about different industrial sewing machine and function of different
parts of a plain sewing machine.

Objectives:
To know about different parts of machine.
To know about the specification of different machine.
To know about the different use of sewing machine.
To make a proper lab report.
To know the function of different type of machine. 2
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List of different industrial sewing machines:

● Single Needle Lock Stitch

● Double needle lock stitch machine
● Single Needle Chain Stitch m/c
● Double Needle Chain Stitch m/c
● Multi-Needle Chain Stitch m/c
● Flat lock sewing machine
● Feed off the Arm
● Overlock /Safety stitch machines
● Button holing machine
● Button Sewing machine
● Blind stitch m/c
● Bartack machine
● Zigzag sewing machine
● Label/elastic inserting machine
● Hemstitch machine
● Pin tucking machine
● Smocking machine / Automatic multi needle shirring machine
● Collar and cuff turning and blocking machine and pressing machine
● Shoulder pad-attaching machine
● Snap button attaching m/c
● Velcro attaching m/c
● Quilting m/c

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1.Single needle lock stitch machine:

Fig: Single needle lock stitch machine

Specification of Machine:
Name : Single needle lock stitch
Brand name : SERA
Origin : India
Model no : SR-9700M-D3
Function : Single Needle Lockstitch Sewing Machine is used for stitching light and
moderately heavy material.
SPM : 5000 max.
Needle size : DBX1 9#-11#

Application: Specially used for light-medium weight materials.

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2. Double needle lock stitch machine:

Fig: Double needle lock stitch machine

Specification of Machine:
Name : Double needle lock stitch
Brand name : SERA
Origin : India
Model no : SR-2250
Function :Double Needle Lockstitch Sewing Machine is used for stitching Suitable for
sewing Shirts, Uniforms, Jeans and Women Underwear.
SPM : 4000 max.
Needle size : DBx1 #9~#18

Application: Specially used for light-medium weight materials. 5

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 ID:191-060-801
3.Single Needle Chain Stitch machine:

Image of Single needle chain stitch machine

Specification of Single needle chain stitch machine:
Name: Single needle chain stitch machine

Brand name: JUKI

Origin:Japan

Model no: MH-481-5, 481

Function: This machine designed to sew beautiful, even chain stitching on multiple fabric types
and is most widely used for attaching yokes on the back of men's shirts, attaching waist belts,
joining sides, seam insides and hip seams on slacks, pantaloons and ski pants

SPM: 5,500 s.p.m

Number of needle: 1

Number of thread: 1
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Application:
Single needle chain stitch sewing machine designed to sew beautiful, even chain stitching on
multiple fabric types and is most widely used for:

• attaching yokes on the back of men's shirts.

• attaching waist belts, joining sides, seam insides and hip seams on slacks, pantaloons and
ski pants.
• sewing the center of the back of coats and blazers.
• joining sides, sewing sleeves, belts, collars, and front facings on coats and blazers.
• sewing the center and joining sides on skirts.
• making pleats or gathers on one-piece suits, blouses and negligees.
• sew sides and sew interlining on the inside side of the material of uniforms and jumpers.
• making pleats and gathers on interior decorations.

4. Double Needle Chain Stitch machine:

Image of Double needle chain stitch machine

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Specification of Double needle chain stitch machine:
Name: Double needle chain stitch machine

Brand name: FOXSEW

Origin: Zhejiang, china.

Model no: FX3800

Function: A double needle chain stitch sewing machine designed to sew beautiful, even chain
stitching on multiple fabric types

SPM: 5,000 SPM

Number of needle: 2

Number of thread: 2

Application:
A double needle chain stitch sewing machine designed to sew beautiful, even chain stitching on
multiple fabric types and is most widely used for:

• Jeans
• Work wear
• Pants
• Overalls
• Jackets
• Shirts
• Sportswear
• Swimwear
• Uniforms
• Boxer Shorts
• Ladies wear
• Children wear
• Zipper Attachment
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5.Multi-Needle Chain Stitch machine:

Image of Multi needle chain stitch machine

Specification of Multi needle chain stitch machine:

Name: Multi needle chain stitch machine

Brand name: JACK

Origin: China.

Model no: JK 8009 VCDI

Function: This machine used for smocking operations and pin-tuck operations

Number of needle: 4

Number of thread: 4

Application:
Multiple Needle chain stitch machine works as a multi-purpose machine for attaching elastic,
attaching waistband, sewing the front of shirts, attaching line tapes, smocking and shirring etc.,
which are ideal for underwear, sportswear, lady's clothes, interior decorated goods.
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6.Flat lock sewing machine:

Image of Flat lock sewing machine

Specification of Flat lock sewing machine:

Name: Flat lock sewing machine

Brand name: JUKI

Origin: Japan

Model no: Flatlock

Function: This sewing machine for interlock on hosiery t shirts and woven garment

Number of needle: 2-3

Number of thread: 2
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Application:
Flatlock machines are used for hemming sleeve and bottom of the knits products. A cover-stitch
machine can be used in any part of the garment for decorative purpose.

7. Feed off the Arm Machine:

Image of Feed off the arm machine

Specification of Feed off the arm sewing machine:

Name: Feed off the arm sewing machine

Brand name: JUKI

Origin: Japan

Model no: MS-1190M

Function: used in making flat and felt seams

SPM: 6000

Number of needle: 2/3

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Number of thread: 4/6

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Application: This machine is used in making flat and felt seams. For example, this machine is
used for sewing shirt side seams and underarms, and for sewing jeans inseam.

The uses of Industrial Feed of the Arm Machine:

1. For making garments of jeans fabric.

2. Used in long seam of trousers.

3. Frequently used for joining lace.

4. Used for joining braid and elastic in the garments.

ID:191-113-801

8. Overlock /Safety stitch machines:

fig: Overlock / Safety Stitch Machine

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Specification of Machine:
Name : Overlock / Safety Stitch Machine
Brand name : Zoje
Origin : China
Model no : ZJ893A-5-86
Function : It can use for trim, stitch, and overcast seams sew.
SPM : 6,000 S.P.M
Number of Needle : 2-needle
Number of threads : 5-thread

Application:
It can be used for applications such as inserting a zipper and creating beautiful decorations with
certain stitches.

9. Button holing machine:

Fig: Button holing machine

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Specification of Machine:
Name : Button holing machine
Brand name : JUKI
Origin : Japan
Model no : LBH-780
Function : It automates the side-to-side and forwards-and-backwards
motions involved in sewing a buttonhole.
SPM : 3000-3600 S.P.M
Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 and 21
Needle use : DP X 5
Application:
• Straight hole are mainly used for shirts and blouses.

• Eyed holes are for trousers, coats and jackets.

• Button holes used lock stitch or chain stitch.

10. Button Sewing machine:

Fig: Button Sewing machine

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Specification of Machine
Name : Button Sewing machine
Brand name : SERA
Origin : India
Model no : MB-372
Function : A button sewing machine is used to sew the button in the garment
without damaging it. Various types of buttons like a button with two
holes, four holes or shank could be sewn on this machine by making
simple adjustments.

SPM : 1500 S.P.M

Needle size : TQ x 7
Number of Stitches : 8, 16 and 32

Application: Specially used for attaching the polo shirt and woven shirt buttons.

11. Blind stitch Machine:

Fig: Blind stitch Machine

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Specification of Machine
Name : Blind stitch Machine
Brand name : Yamato
Origin : Japan
Model no : CM-352
SPM : 3,000 S.P.M
Number of Needle: 1-needle
Number of threads: 1-thread

Application:
➢ For sewing all types of light to medium-weight materials including synthetics, knits and
woolens.
➢ Typical sewing operations include pant cuffs, felling slack bottoms, hemming dresses,
skirt and coat bottoms, draperies, negligees, undergarments, lapel padding, blouses and
sleeves.
➢ Ideal for alteration rooms, clothing rentals, dry cleaners, department stores, dressmakers

and home use.

12. Bartack machine:

Fig: Bartack machine

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Specification of Machine
Name : Bartack machine.
Brand name : JUKI
Origin : Japan
Model no : LK-1901BN
Function : Bar tacking sewing machine is used to secure pocket corners, belt
loops, the open end of a button hole, zipper flies. Bar tacking machine
is also used for small decorative tacks and shapes.

SPM : 3000 S.P.M

Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21
Needle use : DP X 5

Application:
➢ Attaching belt loops.
➢ Increasing strength in corner of pocket.
➢ Closing the two corners of button hole.
➢ At the end of zipper.
➢ In that place where more strength is needed to support extra load.

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13.Zigzag sewing machine:

Fig: Zigzag sewing machine

Specification of Machine

Brand: Juki
Model: Juki LZ2280A
Origin: Japan
Stitch System: Standard Zigzag
Max. Sewing Speed: 5000 Stitches per Minute
Max. Zigzag Width: 5mm
Max. Stitch Length: 2.5mm
Needle: 1 34 SUK (Nm70)

Applications:
1. For decorative purpose inward which joining of elastic, pipe, braid as well as hence on
amongst the textile is required.
2. To terminate diverse seam allowance edges zigzag stitch tin live used.
3. Using zigzag stitch for seaming helps to eliminate the thread breakage as well as
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subsequent tears inward the areas subjected to stress.

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4. Zigzag stitch is used for attaching the buttons past times using machine.
5. A zigzag stitch must prevarication apartment against the textile without tunneling.
6. This type of machine is oftentimes used for hemming stretchable clothes similar equally
knit trouser or T-shirts.

14.Label/elastic inserting machine:

Fig: Label/elastic inserting machine

Specification of Machine
Model NO.: PST-c12
Automatic Grade: Semi-Automatic
Type: Sticker Labeling Machine
Driven Type: Pneumatic
Trademark: PST
Specification: 920mm*420mm*500mm

Application: Apparel, Garments, Detergent, Skin Care Products, Hair Care Products, Oil, Tea,
Fish, Meat, Snack, Rice, Flour, Seasoning, Dairy Products

15.Hemstitch machine:

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Fig: Hemstitch machine

Specification of Machine
Brand: Fitpack
Model: 1302-4W
Origin: India
Stitch: 3500 Min
Max. Sewing Speed: 3000 SPM
Automation Grade: Semi-Automatic
Stitch Length: 0.8 - 1.5
No of Threads: 03

Applications:
➢ Suitable for decoration stitch for ladies’ blouse, shirts, dress, and table cloth.
➢ Double needle machine.
➢ Adjustable diameter hole up to 3mm.

16.Pin tucking machine:

fig: Pin tucking machine

Specification of Machine
Brand: Fitpack
Origin: India
Automatic Grade: Semi-Automatic
Max Sewing Speed: 3000 SPM
Frequency: 50 - 60 Hz
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Voltage: 220 - 240 V

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Applications: Industrial

17.Smocking machine / Automatic multi needle shirring machine:

Fig: Smocking machine / Automatic multi needle shirring machine

Specification of Machine

Name: Smoking sewing machine

Brand: FOXSEW
Model: FX1033
Origin: China

Applications:
Applicable to smocking of woman’s suit, children’ suit etc.
1)This machine adopts vertical movement of looper, suitable for basic sewing and decoration of
high-grade garment.
2)Complete automatic supply system and oil-filter device, ensure the max sewing speed to be
4500r.p.m.
3)Some key parts are special treatment, which enhance the wear-resistance of the machine.
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18.Quilting Machine:

Fig: Quilting Machine

Specification of Machine

Model NO: HF-2

Speed of Main Shaft: 650-930rpm
Knitting Style: Flat
Knitting Method: Double
Needle Style: Compound Needle
Needle Bar Style: Flatbed Knitting Machine
Knitting Product Type: Mattress Fabric
Trademark: Square
Origin: Nanjing China

Application: Pattern-combining function, suitable for very thick materials. Automatic pause in
case of thread-breaking, automatic thread-cutting, small distance movement and automatic self-
testing function. Easy to learn the patterns setting methods. Advanced computer control system,
easy to operate. Multi-span independent pattern (360 degree, or 180 degrees available). Lowest
power consumption among all the domestic brands. Highest needle-operation speed among all
the brands.
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19.Shoulder Pad Attaching Machine:

Fig: Shoulder Pad Attaching Machine

Specification of Machine

Model: BRI 651/201

Length: 40 - 350 mm
Width: about 40 – 225 mm
Wider pad basting range available upon request
Machine size: 2000 x 1500 x 2000 mm (lxwxh)
Machine weight: 800kgs

Application: Attaching Shoulder Pads to Armholes and Trimming Edge.

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20.Snap Button Attaching Machine:

Fig: Snap Button Attaching Machine

Specification of Machine

Product Name: Automatic Snap Button Machine

Model NO.: FX-70S
Origin: Zhejiang, China
Brand Name: FOXSEW
Drive Mode: Motor Drive
Power: 0.37 KW
Voltage: 110V/220V
Working Pacing: 160 PC/Min
Operating Height: 815 mm
Stamping Force: 90 mm
Weight: 115 KGS
Packing Size: 420x420x1260 mm

Application: It is used to finish sewing process, such as stitching trademark, label, cap, etc.
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21.Collar and cuff turning and blocking machine and pressing machine:

Fig: Collar and cuff turning and blocking machine and pressing machine

Specification of Machine

Model: OP-565 III OSHIMA

Max. pressure: 4 - 5 kg/cm2
Max. temperature: 180 °C
Heater power: 1.6 kW
Efficiency: 180 - 200 pcs/h

Application: With the optionally available adjustable lower form, shoulder pads of varying
thicknesses can be processed. Adjustable lower form for different shoulder pad thicknesses.
Recommended for customers who produce jackets with varying shoulder pads. 25
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22.Velcro attaching machine:

Fig: Velcro attaching machine

Specification of Machine

Model NO.: BY-326G

Drive: Electric
Thread Number: Single Thread
Needle Number: Single Needle
Stitch Type: Lock Type
Power: 750W
Voltage: AC 110/220V
Motor: AC Servo Motor 750W
Sewing Area: 220*100mm
Weight: 235kgs
Specification: 1200*1000*1500 mm
Origin: Dongguan

Application: Applications for sewing of velcro tapes on clothing, umbrella, bag, shoes,
hats, toys, etc...
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Different brand of sewing machine:
Bernina.
Elna.
Brother.
Husqvarna.
Viking.
Bernette.
Janome.
Jia Ling.
Juki.
Kenmore.
Kingtex.
Merrow.
Pfaff.
Singer.
Sunstar.
Fortuna.
SWF.
Usha.
Yamato.
Jackk Sewing machine company.
Feiyue Group.
Tacony Corporation.
Toyota Asin Seiki.
Necchi.
Union Special.
VI.BE.MAC. S.P.A.
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L. O. Dietrich.
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Vesta.
Frister and.
Rossmann.
Grimme.
Natalis & Co.
Hengstenberg & Co.
Anker.
Hermann.
Köhler.
Mundlos & Co.
Adam Opel.
Georg Pfaff.
Seidel and.
Naumann.

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Image of an industrial plain sewing machine:

Figure: An industrial plain sewing machine

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Function of different parts:

Balance Wheel:
The main function is to raise and lower the needle through manual labor. It is used when an
extremely thick piece of fabric is required to be sewn. In the domestic sewing machine, it also
helps to wind the sewing thread to the bobbin. It is situated to the right side of the machine.

Stitch Regulator:
The main function of the stitch length regulator is to maintain the length of the stitch during
sewing. Stitch length may vary depending on fabric type and sewing thread that is used on it.

Bobbin Winder:
It helps to wind the sewing thread to the bobbin.

Reverse Lever:

The liver works to depress the lever which enables the mechanism to move backward or in
reverse.

Stitch selection panel:

It determines the stitch type such as straight stitches or an embroidery stitch or zig-zag.

Spool Holder:

The main function of the spool holder is to control the thread direction and hold the spool. Spool
holder may be in the horizontal or vertical direction. Sometimes a sewing machine has more than
one spool holder when decorative stitching is needed.

Tension Disc:
It is used to control tightness or looseness of the upper thread to avoid puckering problems.
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Thread Take Up Lever:
The main function of the thread take-up lever is threading the sewing needle and maintaining
the proper tension. If the thread take-up lever is incorrect, the thread will knot up, break & jam
in the machine.

Thread Guide:
Thread guide is used to control the direction of the thread. It also helps plenty of supply of thread.

Pressure Foot Lifter:

Pressure bar lifter is used for raising and lowering the pressure foot.

Pressure Foot
It is used to put the pressure on the fabric during sewing. It helps to prevent wrinkles that could
mess up the stitch.

Slide Plate:
It is a rectangular shape which is situated beside the pressure foot, it helps the removal of the
bobbin case without lifting the machine.

Feed Dog:
It helps to pass the cloth through the machine in the forward direction during the sewing.

Needle:

This is the essential and most sensitive instrument of the machine which holds the thread and
sews the fabric.

Needle Bar:

This is a steel rod that holds the needle at the lower end. Needle is fixed by means of a clamp. Its
main function is to give the Needle the required motion. A groove is provided in the bar for
holding the needle in appropriate position.

Throat/Needle Plate:
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It is a semi-circular disc with a hole to allow the needle to pass through it.
Conclusion:
Sewing machine is a machine used for stitching material (such as cloth or leather), usually having
a needle and shuttle to carry thread and powered by treadle, waterpower, or electricity. It was
the first widely distributed mechanical home appliance and has been an important industrial
machine. The sewing machine is the most important element in the garments industry. It
minimizes laborious tasks. By using sewing machine, we can get more standard quality garments
within a short time. In this experiment we got to know about sewing and different industrial
sewing machines. Our teacher was very helpful to us. Her teaching and instruction help us greatly
to understand this practical. So, this experiment will help us in our upcoming experiment from
this course and also helpful for our future professional life.

Reference:
➢ https://www.cutsew.com/Juki-LZ2280A-Industrial-Zig-Zag-Sewing-Machine
➢ https://sosopoetry.blogspot.com/2018/04/key-features-of-zigzag-stitch-sewing.html
➢ https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/picot-hemstitch-machine-1259083330.html
➢ https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/pintuck-machine-1259197548.html
➢ https://www.foxsew.com/multi-needle-sewing-machine/44.htmlmachine.
➢ http://www.zoje.com/en/index.php/products/ctype/2.html
➢ https://www.jukiindustrial.co.uk/product-category/juki-industrial-sewing-
machines/button-holing/
➢ https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/button-stitch-machine-19884696112.html
➢ https://www.yamato-sewing.com/en/product/blind_stitch/cm/specifications/
➢ https://www.juki.co.jp/industrial_e/products_e/apparel_e/tacking_e/detail.php?cd=
LK-1901BN_E
➢ https://pstautomation.en.made-in-china.com/product/NXjnmRKPgbUQ/China-Label-
Inserting-Machine-for-Round-Bottles.html
➢ https://www.foxsew.com/button-sewing-machine.html
➢ Different Parts of Sewing Machine and Their Functions - Garments Merchandising
➢ https://sewingiscool.com/parts-of-sewing-
machine/http://ecoursesonline.iasri.res.in/mod/page/view.php?id=27071
➢ https://www.sewingmarket.com/product/juki-mh-481-single-needle-chainstitch-
machine-made-in-japan/?v=1baa5a77aeff
➢ https://www.foxsew.com/chain-stitch-sewing-machine/32.html
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➢ https://www.onlineclothingstudy.com/2017/03/different-types-of-industrial-
sewing.html
➢ https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/jack-8009-vcdi-04064p-multi-needle-chain-
stitch-machine-20326518697.html
➢ https://www.fibre2fashion.com/serasewing/chain-stitch-machine.asp
➢ https://www.indiamart.com/proddetail/juki-flatlock-sewing-machine-
17883352433.html
➢ https://textilestudycenter.com/feed-of-the-arm-sewing-machine/

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