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A Falling Off Place The Transformation of Lower Manhattan 1St Edition Mensch Online Ebook Texxtbook Full Chapter PDF
A Falling Off Place The Transformation of Lower Manhattan 1St Edition Mensch Online Ebook Texxtbook Full Chapter PDF
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A Falling-Off Place
A FALLING-OFF PLACE
The Transformation of Lower Manhattan
Barbara G. Mensch
Fordham University Press also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats.
Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books.
Printed in Italy
25 24 23 5 4 3 2 1
First edition
contents
1 Introduction
49 Part 2 The 1990s: Setting the Stage for a Real Estate Boom
115 Acknowledgments
v
foreword
Long after the Fulton Fish Market of Lower Manhattan closed in 2005, long after its
denizens were shoved off to more efficient but less evocative accommodations in the
Bronx, its aroma lingered. Especially when the rain fell on South Street.
Rain had the power to conjure the open waters from the concrete and cobblestones
of Gotham—a piscatorial perfume born of 175 sea-salted years. Just inhale the wet
air and there it was, all of it, again.
The fish were laid out in coffins of wax, deadened eyes staring in judgment. The
splotches of guts, gray, white, and scarlet on floors wet from ice melt. The late-night
spills of coffee and early-morning spills of beer. The grappling hooks and beeping
forklifts, the high-church blasphemies and what-the-fuck-you-looking-at stares.
The brackish sweat of nocturnal men.
And, somewhere, their good-luck Madonna, the weathered woman called Annie
whose name wasn’t Annie. There she is, flashing her breasts for the odd laugh,
hawking the wares in her cart—socks, newspapers, whatever you need, sweetheart—
and calling out her siren song of reassurance. Yoo-hoo. Yoo-hoo.
This briny Brigadoon seemed to exist only at night. By mid-morning, the trucks
vii
and the fish and the men and Annie were gone, as if subsumed into the forever dusk
beneath the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Drive until the next nightfall.
The market was more than a gritty anachronism where fish were bought and sold.
The place helped to ground New York City in its humble but raucous roots; to
remind us that before Central Park and St. Patrick’s Cathedral and the Empire
State Building and every other touchstone that makes one think of sleek New York,
the metropolis was a Dutch-then-English scrum at the bottom end of an island,
dependent upon the sea. Take one step south from its southernmost tip, and you fell
off the earth.
Now, if you venture to where the Fulton Fish Market once charged the air with
aromas to turn the stomach and stir the imagination, you will find only the faintest
co-opted remnants. One of the market’s old structures, the Tin Building, was
disassembled and then reimagined as a rarefied culinary mall. It features upscale
restaurants and shops offering fine cheeses, artisanal baked goods, expensive
confections—and, yes, fish, staged behind glass as if to photograph more than to
consume.
There is no longer any scent of what was. Thankfully, though, there is Barbara
Mensch, whose images are like the conjuring rain. She is the Brooklyn Bridge of the
New York imagination, linking the now and the then. She sees the incremental turns
in the city’s inexorable evolution, the obliteration of the past by gentrification, the
irreversible dominion of profit over preservation.
For nearly a half-century, this visual artist has explored the streets of Lower
Manhattan, her boxy Rolleiflex camera—and then her iPhone—at the ready. As the
photographs in this collection demonstrate, she has the eye and the ear. She both
sees and hears the loudness in the stillness.
She recognized early on that no place as wondrously crude and authentic as the
Fulton Fish Market could survive the glass-and-steel creep toward the waterfront.
But she also saw something else in its stalls and saloons: the dignity of hard work.
viii
In the 1980s, Mensch showed up at the market, then kept showing up and showing
up and showing up, until she was as much a part of the market as the faded lettering
on the ancient brick. She saw, captured, and preserved. The fish toss. Those sunken-
shoulder moments at the bar. The man-beasts of burden, hauling another load from
the icehouse. The secret brotherhood.
And Mensch did not go away. This was not some two-month art project; this was
her life. She bore witness to the suits with their briefcases and proprietary air. To
the ancient bricks coming down, piling like pieces of a puzzle beyond solving, and
the girders rising, harbingers in the sky. To the weary, fatalistic expressions of those
hard-callused fishmongers.
A static city cannot survive. The story of New York is and always has been about
change. Sometimes the change is necessary; sometimes, as in the case of the original
Pennsylvania Station, it is unforgivable; and sometimes it follows in the wake of
catastrophe. Here in this volume, the Twin Towers—only a few blocks west of the
fish market—rise and fade into a dreamlike cloud cover over Lower Manhattan.
And here they disappear again, only now the clouds are nightmarish, ominous, the
product of an era-altering terrorist attack. It is a falling-off place.
Dark, mysterious, and central to the origin story of New York, they stir and rumble
in endless restlessness. Then, with no warning, they rise up to salt-slap our faces and
remind us of our folly, our impermanence, our need to keep moving.
Dan Barry
January 2023
ix
x
A Falling-Off Place
introduction
June 2020.
I woke up to another day of apprehension. Perhaps this would be the day when
someone in cyberspace would convince me that the sky was not really blue; that it
was OK to lie through your teeth or spew frightening conspiracy theories designed to
scare a whole population. I was thinking whether the COVID pandemic would keep
me isolated forever. It seemed that reality itself had been upended, rejected, and
condemned. To fight against these dispiriting thoughts, I would go on a journey back
in time.
1
shots of anisette. In my mind’s eye I could see “Mikey the Watchman” sitting across
a table from me. We engaged in a conversation, and I posed a question: “What’s
your definition of doing something bad?” A sinister smile that showed absolutely
no innocence crept up on Mikey’s beautiful face, and then he responded, “I can’t see
walkin’ up to somebody and robbin’ dem outright . . . . Rob a big corporation, dey can
swallow it. Why rob a poor guy dat’s got ta’ feed his family?”
At that moment, I remembered how the workers at the old Fulton Fish Market spoke
genuinely about who they were, defining their assured sense of self. There was a
direct and honest response to my queries that contrasted with the present day, where
many have come to accept less than the truth.
I then found the unlabeled boxes. Some of the forgotten 8 × 10 prints were portraits
of the men who had worked at the Fulton Market. Gazing into my camera, I sensed
the subjects’ eerily communicating (to me) their inner truths. Other boxes of
photographs contained contact sheets from decades of traversing, again and again,
the familiar streets of Lower Manhattan—Chinatown, Tribeca, and the Bowery.
2
Lower Manhattan, with its sharp-edged shoreline of piers and landing docks that
made New York City one of the busiest port cities in the world, ca. 1850s
3
part 1
the 1980s
I’m proud I’m an East Side boy. You could look up and see the Brooklyn Bridge
going over it. First came East Broadway, second came Henry Street, third came
Madison Street, fourth came Monroe Street, fifth came Cherry Street, sixth
came Water Street, seventh came Front Street, and the last came South Street.
That’s where all the ships came in. . . . It was known as the Fourth Ward. I think Boss
Tweed gave it that name. . . . It was the roughest neighborhood in the city and your
life wasn’t worth a penny. They would hit you, throw you down the stairs.
5
Under the FDR Drive, the former Fourth Ward working-class district
(today’s South Street Seaport neighborhood), 1980
6
Last days of the Paris Bar, 119 South Street (at the corner of Peck Slip), 1980. Just across the street from the
Fulton Fish Market and the East River, this storied haunt was popular with local workers and wiseguys.
7
The Fishermen’s Federation building, 227 Front Street (near Peck Slip), in the Fulton Fish Market area, 1982
8
Waterfront lunch counter, inside the Paris Bar, 1981
9
Last scallop trawler to Beekman Dock, in the background the Fulton Fish Market’s historic Tin Building, 1982
10
Proud Lower East Side boy on a dumpster of shoes, 1982
11
I was born here. I worked here all my life. All of us in the neighborhood, we worked
on the piers and the docks all our lives. Some guys, some of ’em, they worked “double
headers,” they’d do two jobs. They’d unload the boats during the day and work the
market at night.
12
Retired Fulton Fish Market worker, 1982
13
Inside the Beekman Dock icehouse on South Street, Pier 18, 1983. Ice was
indispensable for the old Fulton Fish Market’s operation.
14
Workers hauling ice for local businesses, Beekman Dock icehouse, 1983
15
Destruction of Pier 17, 1982
16
Clearing the neighborhood of historic warehouses and saloons near Pearl Street, 1983
17
Making room for skyscrapers near Pearl Street, 1983
18
Cobblestones from the 1800s, appropriated for the Schermerhorn Row revitalization plan, 1983
19
Row of abandoned warehouses facing north to the Brooklyn Bridge, 1983
20
“Victoria Theatre Vaudeville” wall inscription, alleyway near Nassau Street, 1981
21
Entrance to the Tin Building, part of the Fulton Fish Market, South Street, 1984
22
Late-night fish delivery to Peck Slip, 1981
23
“Open for business,” Independent Fillet, Peck Slip, 1982
24
“Mikey the Watchman,” 1981
25
Deliveries and pickups on a rainy night in front of the New Market Building, 1982
26
Returning from deliveries, Fulton Fish Market, South Street, 1984
27
“Flying fish” on the sales floor (top) and pushing deliveries down South Street around 5 a.m. (bottom), 1984
28
Selling floor, Tin Building, 1984
29
“Mombo,” an unloader, inside the Tin Building, around 1 a.m., 1982
30
“Vinny,” an unloader, Fulton Fish Market, 1982
31
Salesman, Fulton Fish Market, 1982
32
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speak but couldn’t utter a word.
His mother looked deep into his eyes. Her rigid body began to
move. Wave after wave of trembling broke over her shoulders and
down her back.
She did not ask any questions. She did not want any explanation
or history. She kissed Gobo slowly on the mouth. She kissed his
cheeks and his neck. She bathed him tirelessly in her kisses, as she
had when he was born.
Bambi and Faline had gone away.
CHAPTER XVI
They were all standing around in the middle of the thicket in a little
clearing. Gobo was talking to them.
Even Friend Hare was there. Full of astonishment, he would lift
one spoonlike ear, listen attentively, and let it fall back, only to lift it
again at once.
The magpie was perched on the lowest branch of a young beech
and listened in amazement. The jay was sitting restlessly on an ash
opposite and screamed every once in a while in wonder.
A few friendly pheasants had brought their wives and children and
were stretching their necks in surprise as they listened. At times they
would jerk them in again, turning their heads this way and that in
speechless wonder.
The squirrel had scurried up and was gesturing, wild with
excitement. At times he would slide to the ground, at times he would
run up some tree or other. Or he would balance with his tail erect and
display his white chest. Every now and again he tried to interrupt
Gobo and say something, but he was always told sternly to keep
quiet.
Gobo told how he had lain helpless in the snow waiting to die.
“The dogs found me,” he said. “Dogs are terrible. They are
certainly the most terrible creatures in the world. Their jaws drip blood
and their bark is pitiless and full of anger.” He looked all around the
circle and continued, “Well, since then I’ve played with them just as I
would with one of you.” He was very proud. “I don’t need to be afraid
of them any more, I’m good friends with them now. Nevertheless,
when they begin to grow angry, I have a roaring in my ears and my
heart stops beating. But they don’t really mean any harm by it and, as
I said, I’m a good friend of theirs. But their bark is terribly loud.”
“The dogs found me.”
Gobo’s mother was very proud and happy over her visit. Gobo’s
mother had grown rather proud of her good fortune. She was
delighted to hear the whole forest talking about her son. She basked
in his glory and wanted everybody to know that her Gobo was the
cleverest, ablest and best deer living.
“What do you think of him, Marena?” she exclaimed. “What do you
think of our Gobo?” She didn’t wait for an answer but went on, “Do
you remember how old Nettla said he wasn’t worth much because he
shivered a little in the cold? Do you remember how she prophesied
that he’d be nothing but a care to me?”
“Well,” Marena answered, “you’ve had plenty of worry over Gobo.”
“That’s all over with now,” his mother exclaimed. She wondered
how people could still remember such things. “O, I’m sorry for poor
old Nettla. What a pity that she couldn’t live to see what my Gobo’s
become!”
“Yes, poor old Nettla,” said Marena softly, “it’s too bad about her.”
Gobo liked to hear his mother praise him that way. It pleased him.
He stood around and basked as happily in her praises as in the
sunshine.
“Even the old Prince came to see Gobo,” his mother told Marena.
She whispered it as though it were something solemn and
mysterious. “He never let anyone so much as get a glimpse of him
before, but he came on account of Gobo.”
“Why did he call me a poor thing?” Gobo broke in in a
discontented tone. “I’d like to know what he meant by that.”
“Don’t think about it,” his mother said to comfort him, “he’s old and
queer.”
But at last Gobo meant to ease his mind. “All day long it keeps
running through my head,” he said. “Poor thing! I’m not a poor thing.
I’m very lucky. I’ve seen more and been through more than all the rest
of you put together. I’ve seen more of the world and I know more
about life than anyone in the forest. What do you think, Marena?”
“Yes,” she said, “no one can deny that.”
From then on Marena and Gobo were always together.
CHAPTER XVIII
Bambi went to look for the old stag. He roamed around all night long.
He wandered till the sun rose and dawn found him on unbeaten trails
without Faline.
He was still drawn to Faline at times. At times he loved her just as
much as ever. Then he liked to roam about with her, to listen to her
chatter, to browse with her on the meadow or at the edge of the
thicket. But she no longer satisfied him completely.
Before, when he was with Faline, he hardly ever remembered his
meetings with the old stag, and when he did it was only casually. Now
he was looking for him and felt an inexplicable desire driving him to
find him. He only thought of Faline between whiles. He could always
be with her if he wanted to. He did not much care to stay with the
others. Gobo or Aunt Ena he avoided when he could.
The words the old stag had let fall about Gobo kept ringing in
Bambi’s ears. They made a peculiarly deep impression on him. Gobo
had affected him strangely from the very first day of his return. Bambi
didn’t know why, but there was something painful to him in Gobo’s
bearing. Bambi was ashamed of Gobo without knowing why. And he
was afraid for him, again without knowing why. Whenever he was
together with this harmless, vain, self-conscious and self-satisfied
Gobo, the words kept running through his head, “Poor thing!” He
couldn’t get rid of them.
But one dark night when Bambi had again delighted the screech-
owl by assuring him how badly he was frightened, it suddenly
occurred to him to ask, “Do you happen to know where the old stag is
now?”
The screech-owl answered in his cooing voice that he didn’t have
the least idea in the world. But Bambi perceived that he simply didn’t
want to tell.
“No,” he said, “I don’t believe you, you’re too clever. You know
everything that’s happening in the forest. You certainly must know
where the old stag is hiding.”
The screech-owl, who was all fluffed up, smoothed his feathers
against his body and made himself small. “Of course I know,” he
cooed still more softly, “but I oughtn’t to tell you, I really oughtn’t.”
Bambi began to plead. “I won’t give you away,” he said. “How
could I, when I respect you so much?”
The owl became a lovely, soft gray-brown ball again and rolled his
big cunning eyes a little as he always did when he felt in a good
humor. “So you really do respect me,” he asked, “and why, pray?”
Bambi did not hesitate. “Because you’re so wise,” he said
sincerely, “and so good-natured and friendly, besides. And because
you’re so clever at frightening people. It’s so very clever to frighten
people, so very, very clever. I wish I could do it, it would be a great
help to me.”
The screech-owl had sunk his bill into his downy breast and was
happy.
“Well,” he said, “I know that the old stag would be glad to see
you.”
“Do you really think so?” cried Bambi while his heart began to
beat faster for joy.
“Yes, I’m sure of it,” the owl answered. “He’d be glad to see you,
and I think I can venture to tell you where he is now.”
He laid his feathers close to his body and suddenly grew thin
again.
“Do you know the deep ditch where the willows stand?”
Bambi nodded yes.
“Do you know the young oak thicket on the farther side?”
“No,” Bambi confessed, “I’ve never been on the farther side.”
“Well, listen carefully then,” the owl whispered. “There’s an oak
thicket on the far side. Go through that. Then there are bushes, hazel
and silver poplar, thorn and shadbush. In the midst of them is an old
uprooted beech. You’ll have to hunt for it. It’s not so easy to see it
from your height as it is from the air. You’ll find him under the trunk.
But don’t tell him I told you.”
“Under the trunk?” said Bambi.
“Yes,” the screech-owl laughed, “there’s a hollow in the ground
there. The trunk lies right across it. And he sleeps under the trunk.”
“Thank you,” said Bambi sincerely. “I don’t know if I can find it, but
I’m very grateful anyhow.” He ran quickly away.
The screech-owl flew noiselessly after him and began to hoot right
beside him. “Oi, oi!” Bambi shrank together.
“Did I frighten you?” asked the owl.
“Did I frighten you?” asked the owl.