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Clutch systems
Brake systems
Fabric feeding
Robots (in gripping)
Loop formation in lock stitches
Belt drives
Button feeders

Although the friction plays a desirable role in the above applications friction between the
moving and sliding parts should be minimized. In order to facilitate minimum friction
between the parts having relative motion, various types of bearing (eg-roller bearing, ball
bearing) in conjunction with various lubrication methods are employed.

Effects ®F Frietiom toetweem m®vimg and sEfiding parts

1. Wear and teal-

This leads to make clearances, backlashes, and hence become less precision
equipment. This will adversely affect for the quality of the product.
2. Generation of heat
Due to the heat generated by friction the components are subjected to thermal
expansion leading to shorten the life span.
3. Energy wastage and low efficiency
This is the most crucial run time consideration and it leads to uneconomical
scenarios.

Lubricating systerms
Lubricants could be a gas, liquid or solid placed between two mechanical links to reduce
friction and thereby overcome above-mentioned disadvantages of friction. The important
characteristics of lubricants for sewing machines can be summarized as follows and they
also become criteria for selection of proper lubricant.
1. Viscosity
Viscosity is the rate of fluidity at a given temperature eg:-SAE 30, 40
2. Pourtest
Pour test is the lowest temperature of flow. This is a very important criterion
where seasonal effect is dominant.
3. Oiliness
Oiliness is the degree of friction a lubricant possesses with a given viscosity
4. Flash point
This is the lowest temperature at which lubricants vapour ignites
5. Volatility
Volatility is the rate at which the lubricant vaporizes with the given heat.

®
Liquid lubrisaats could be made out, o-f anima.i, vege-Gable, mineral aiid syathetio oil.
Mineral oils are the only oils used for sewing machines in praatic®. Grease {sometimes
categorized as semi solid type) and graphite ae the most popular solid iutsricants used.
The higher the speed of the machine, the greater the fiction effect and the heat generated.
Therefore high-speed machines require greater supplies of lubricants for unit time.

Types of EuBE.icatimg systerms

Sewing machines are lubricated with oil by one or more of the following systems.
1. Mechanical application (manual)
2. Wick application
3. Gravity drop
4. Bath

For automatic systems drip, splash and spray or stream is used. Manual application is the
system of applying oil from oilcan's snout directly to the link. In wick systems the link
receives oil from the container through a wick. Wick receives its oil by manual
application or from a reservoir filled by manual application. Gravity drip systems consist
of reservoirs with a spigot (control frow of liquid from tap to regulate the flow of oil)
device. The spigot device can be regulated to give and the drip rate desires.

Some may vary by having inhibitors to prevent nist and corrosion. Oiliness is the most
important factor of oil. Some stainless oils are not satisfactory for high-speed machines
because they have low oiliness, high rate of volatility or both. Oil stained garments
should be prevented by using oil guards and by not bathing the machine lavishly
indiscriminately with oil. Automatic oil systems have done much to lower the percentage
of oil stain garments.

®
 Clothing Manufacture
Equipment and Methods Sewing Machine Drives
for Sewing

Sewing machin-es are driven by electric motors. Various types of

driving arrangements are available, the most important of which are
illustrated below.

Belt.Drive
This is the simplest way to drive machines which operate at relatively
low speeds and low loads. The sewing speed is controlled by a foot
pedalwhichvariesthecurrentsuppliedtothemotoraccordingtohow
far it is depressed. When the pedal is released, the motor is stopped
byabrake.Thistypeofdriveisusedfordomesticmachines(Figure1)

1: Beltdrive
Fixed Clutch
Once the motor has been started it runs continuously at constant
speed. Depressing the foot pedal activates a clutch mechanism
contained in the vertical arm and motion is supplled to the top shaft.
The sewlng program runs automatically to completion, after which
the clutch is automatically disengaged. This type of drive is used in
cam-controlled machines such as buttonholers (Figure 2).

Slipping Clutch
ln this case the motor also runs continuously at constant speed
However, the speed of sewing can be regulated by the displacement
of the foot pedal which applies increasing pressure to the clutch disk,
againstthemotordisk.Whenthepedalisfullyreleased,theclutchdisk
is held by a brake so the machine hand wheel is locked To ad)ust the
2: Fixedclutch needle position, it is necessary to apply a slight pressure to the foot
pedal. This system ls used for simple high speed sewing machines
(Figure 3).

Electronic Control
ln the most sophisticated drive systems, a series of sens8rs is
provided which supply information about speed and needle positlon to
a control box. The control logic regulates the speed of the drive motor
accord.ing to these Inputs and a prelselected sewing program (Figure
4). In general, three sets of functions can be distinguished.

Input fh:ecnosn°trr:I::; La,:hdewvheerye'r:::;:t:oann.e+;:str:flop:'S:ht:

machine speed and the position of the needle to be

3: Slipping clutch deduced. Another sensor reports the position of the
foot pedal so that the required machine speed can be
deduced. Sewing programs can be selected from a
programmer which may be placed at the top of the
machine, or on the control box. Additional mechanisms
such as thread cutting, presser foot operation, needle
raising etc. can be operated by pedals, knee buttons, or
hand buttons.

Processing The data from the sensors are analysedin the control
box to decide the control actions required.

Output Signals from the control box determine the speed of

the motor, the positioning of the needle and the com-
mencement or stopping of the various sewing or
additional operations. The most modern sewing ma-
chines are equipped with infinitely variable motors
which operate only when the pedal is pressed.
4: Electronic control
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