Research Methodology

Gap Analysis
Environmental impact of Fashion Industry

Submitted By
Laxmi Bharti
Dyuti Kumari

Submitted to
PROF. ABHIJIT MUKHERJEE

B. F. Tech
SEM- 6
2020-24
 B. F. TECH
2020-24

TABLE OF CONTENTS SEM-6

I. INTRODUCTION 3

Background
Problem statement
Purpose

II. LITERATURE REVIEW 3-47

Review/Brief of Journal Articles

III. GAP ANALYSIS 47-50

Components of Fashion Industry 47

Gap analysis 48
• Gaps in Textile Industry
• Gaps in Apparel Industry
• Gaps in Marketing and Retail

Small data collection of 100% 49

sustainable brand

• Common Gaps 50

IV. OUTCOME 50

V. REFERENCE LIST 51-52

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, KOLKATA

 B. F. TECH
2020-24
SEM-6

TABLE
Table 1 3-47
Table 2 49
TABLES

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, KOLKATA

 ABSTRACT

The fashion industry is one of the largest industrial sectors in the world. The fashion
supply chain is diverse and complex, spanning four or more tiers, including design, raw
material harvesting, spinning, yarn production, dyeing, weaving, cutting, stitching and
final garment construction. Fast fashion, which references apparel with short product
life cycles, has emerged as a potent competitive force. Fast fashion brands introduce
new styles at more frequent intervals, focusing less on durable quality, and more on low
costs and up to the minute designs. One consequence of fast fashion has been an
explosion in consumption accompanied by increased waste. Fast fashion leaves a
pollution footprint, with each step of the clothing life cycle generating potential
environmental and occupational hazards. Due to the large quantity of products
manufactured, used, and disposed of, the textile and apparel industry has a big
environmental impact in every phase of product life cycle. When we talk about
environment it comprises of both natural as well as social environment and production
process involves exploitation of both natural and social environment. Sustainable or
ethical fashion is a response to the environmental and social devastation brought by
conventional production techniques. This analysis is done to enlighten few
unsustainable processes which are a direct or indirect part of the fashion industry
supply chain from design to disposal.

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Completion of any work is not possible without the humble and deep-felt gratitude of
the people who have contributed their valuable time &help to make it. This Gap Analysis
gives an opportunity to thank all those who helped us to make this Analysis a great
learning experience.

We put on record our profound gratitude to Prof. Abhijit Mukherjee sir our subject
faculty, for his valuable guidance and knowledge which helped us in completing the
analysis. We are also thankful to all the journal article authors, which helped us to know
the different aspects of the various processes of Fashion Supply Chain with a real Data
support.

Thanks,
Laxmi Bharti
Dyuti Kumari

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 INTRODUCTION

BACKGROUND
Recently, sustainable development and environmental issues have received significant
attention from all over the world. In the apparel context, apparel companies and consumers
are expressing their heightened interest in sustainable practices and are coming forward to
put efforts toward sustainable apparel production and green consumption. Few companies
have come together by forming a Sustainable Apparel Coalition to bring more transparency
in the textile and apparel system wide supply chain. However, there seems to be a
disconnect between the textile and apparel industry practices and consumer needs related
to sustainability. Consumers may not be fully aware of companies’s sustainable practices
and may have difficulty in finding the sustainable fashion apparel. To address these issues
of disconnect between manufacturers and consumers, with a goal of meeting consumers’
sustainability needs carried out by manufacturer.

PROBLEM STATEMENT
Fast fashion comes at an astonishing environmental and social cost. While the impacts of
the fashion industry in terms of pollution, water use, carbon emissions, human rights, and
gender inequality are increasing, the need for a shift to sustainable fashion is evident. Many
of the sustainable brands claims that they are 100% sustainable brand but few
unsustainable processes are still a part of it.

PURPOSE
To do a Gap analysis present in Sustainable Fashion Industry.

LITERATURE REVIEW

S.NO ARTICLE REVIEW

1. Textile-apparel manufacturing
The textiles and clothing production sector of
and material waste management
the fashion supply chain creates large
in the circular economy: A amounts of waste material, which requires
conceptual model to achieveimmediate action to manage efficiently,
sustainable development goal
reduce environmental impact, and promote
(SDG) 12 for Bangladesh sustainable practices. The focus of much
research is on controlling waste in the
Author(s): upstream textiles and clothing production
Maeen Md. KhairulAkter a , industry as part of a circular economy, in

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UpamaNasrinHaq b , Md. order to achieve Sustainable Development
Mazedul Islam b,c , Mohammad Goal (SDG) 12 in Bangladesh. This study
Abbas Uddin d categorizes the waste generated in various
stages of production, calculates the financial
loss, and traces the informal trade of waste
materials. The research was conducted
through semi-structured questionnaires in 17
textile and clothing factories, supported by
material flow mapping and observations. The
study found that the loss per exported piece
of clothing was estimated to be around 0.70
USD. The study also discovered that about 15
cases of informal trading of waste took place
in a single underground market, leading to a
significant loss of value that could have been
added through a circular economy. Finally,
the study presents a conceptual waste
management model for upstream textiles and
clothing production that can be applied in the
circular economy to achieve SDG 12.

The specific objectives of this research are:

 Identify and analyse materials waste
in the textiles and apparel industry
and the monetary value lost in the
process with a value stream mapping
approach.
 Trace post-production wastage and
determine the scope for reutilising
within the circular economy.
 Show how SDG-12 can be achieved
with a circular economy-led
conceptual model for Bangladesh

This research provides important insights

with theoretical and practical implications for
the Bangladesh textiles and apparel industry.
It is a pioneering study that identifies,
categorizes, maps the flow of materials, and
calculates the economic value of waste
materials. The traceability determination and
development of a circular economy model
will assist academics, researchers, and
stakeholders to understand the barriers and
challenges of managing waste materials

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 throughout the textiles and apparel supply
chain. The study also reveals solutions,
potential applications, and new business
opportunities for Bangladesh to achieve
Sustainable Development Goal 12.

The categorization and quantification of

waste generated in different manufacturing
stages will raise awareness and encourage
industry practitioners to take action to
reduce waste and minimize its negative
impact on the environment. The visual
representation of waste through materials
value stream mapping can help practitioners
engage with other fields within the textiles
and apparel industry, including printing,
packaging, washing, and embroidery. The
calculation of the economic value of waste
materials can drive manufacturers to
prioritize sustainable waste management.

The study also focuses on the post-

production waste scenario in Bangladesh's
textiles and apparel industry, revealing
valuable insights into how waste materials
can be turned into value-added products. The
traceability investigation highlights the
limitations of the jhut business, including a
lack of skilled labor, technology, and
infrastructure, as well as supportive policies
and legislation. The circular economy model
provides comprehensive information for
factory management and stakeholders to
develop strategies for managing materials
waste and natural resources, and to find
potential applications in different sectors.

In conclusion, the theoretical and practical

implications of this research will support the
implementation of circular practices in the
textiles and apparel industry and help
achieve SDG 12 in Bangladesh.

2 A decision support system for The depletion of natural resources in

environmentally-sustainable Mauritius, due to the effects of global

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strategies for the Mauritian
Textile and apparel industry
using system dynamics: The
materials and land perspectives
Author(s):
CallychurnDevkumar S
warming, highlights the need for industries to
adopt more sustainable practices. The main
goal of this research is to identify the support
systems required by the Mauritian Textile
and Apparel Industry to transition to
sustainable manufacturing. The study focuses
on the use of materials and land availability
and aims to provide a comprehensive
analysis of the economic, environmental, and
social benefits of sustainable manufacturing
practices. The objective is to develop
methods that can help academics,
researchers, and industry practitioners
integrate sustainability into their day-to-day
operations. This research provides a clear
and standardized approach for the
stakeholders of the textile and apparel
industry to shift towards more sustainable
practices by optimizing resource usage. The
study highlights the dynamic nature of the
textile industry and shows that with the right
strategies and decisions, the industry has a
future.
The aim of the research was to enhance the
existing knowledge in the field of decision
support systems by incorporating sustainable
manufacturing (SM) concepts and practices in
the textile and garment industry in Mauritius
through university-industry collaboration.
The research focused on the use of land and
the implementation of sustainable materials
in the sector. Despite ongoing efforts to
promote sustainability in the manufacturing
sector, much remains to be done.
Collaboration among all actors in the
industry, including the government,
suppliers, customers, and markets, is crucial
for the development of sustainable strategies.
Investment in cleaner technologies and
materials will also be necessary in the near
future, which may require government
support. The most challenging part of the
research was creating a proposed model for
the Mauritian Textile and Apparel industry
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that aligns with SM principles. This led to the
development of a holistic model that takes
into account land use and materials, with
clearly defined system boundaries, sub
models, and strategies. "What if" scenarios
were tested with the model to support
decision-making in the industry. The results
can aid academics, researchers, and industry
practitioners in integrating SM practices and
provide a decision support system for
stakeholders to evaluate the feasibility and
validity of sustainable manufacturing. The
decision models developed in this research
also provide an overview of the potential
results of government and stakeholder
actions in the industry. The current research
provides a macro analysis of the elements
considered and future research can focus on
the micro side of textile company operations
and the implementation of SM practices.

The literature review showed that there is

still much to be done to achieve sustainability
in the manufacturing sector and that a
holistic approach involving all industry
stakeholders is needed. Investment in cleaner
technologies and materials should also be
considered by companies. The most
challenging aspect of the research was
developing a proposed model for the
Mauritian Textile and Apparel industry
geared towards SM, leading to a holistic
model that combined sub-models and
focused on land use and materials. Strategies
were debated and agreed upon by the focus
group and scenarios were tested through the
model. The outcome of this research can help
academics, researchers, and industry
practitioners integrate SM practices into their
operations and provide support for decision
making and policy development. The decision
models developed can also provide an
overview of potential results for any actions
initiated by the government or stakeholders.
The current research provides a macro

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 analysis of the elements considered, and it
would be interesting to investigate the
potential for implementing SM practices in
textile companies at the micro level in the
future.

3 Analysing barriers of sustainable

The apparel and textile industry is a
supply chain in apparel &textile
significant contributor to environmental
sector: A hybrid ISM-MICMAC pollution, including air, water, and soil
and DEMATEL approach degradation. To mitigate these effects,
sustainability practices must be implemented
Author(s): throughout the supply chain management
Amit Vishwakarma a , G.S. process. A study was conducted to identify
Dangayach a , M.L. Meena a , the barriers to implementing sustainability,
Sumit Gupta b and experts were consulted to determine the
most critical issues. The ISM and fuzzy
MICMAC techniques were used to analyze the
results, which found that the five critical
barriers to sustainable supply chain
management are poor communication among
stakeholders, barriers affecting performance,
a lack of training and education, capacity
constraints, and a lack of reverse logistics
practices. The DEMATEL method was used to
categorize the barriers into two groups:
causes and effects. The results showed that
all the cause-based barriers corresponded
with the level 5 barriers of the ISM model.
The DEMATEL method supports the findings
of the ISM and fuzzy MICMAC techniques.

3 Sustainability Assessment in The This study aimed to provide a comprehensive

Textile and Apparel Industry: A overview of sustainability assessment in the
Review of Recent Studies textile industry. The textile and apparel
industries have a significant impact on the
Author(s): environment throughout the production
F T Gbolarumi1, K Y Wong1,S T process, from cultivating raw materials to
Olohunde disposing of finished goods. The major
environmental challenges faced by the
industry include high use of chemicals, large
amounts of water usage, high energy
consumption, air emissions, solid waste, and
odour formation. To achieve sustainable
production, the performance of the textile
industry must be assessed considering all

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three aspects of sustainability.

A literature review was conducted using five

keywords: sustainable development,
sustainable manufacturing, sustainability
assessment, textile industry, and triple
bottom line. The studies were evaluated
based on the assessment level, source and
weight of indicators, and boundaries of
sustainability assessment. The findings of the
review were discussed, highlighting their
strengths and weaknesses. Most of the
sustainability evaluations were performed at
the sector, product, and process/work cell
levels, but further emphasis is needed on the
company assessment level to achieve the
three pillars of sustainability objectives.

While the measurement of the environmental

dimension in the textile industry has been
well developed and standardized, economic
and social perspectives are largely limited to
cost analysis, employee welfare and safety.
Further research and validation are
necessary to investigate and validate social
and economic indicators in the textile
industry.

In the past, research on the textile and

apparel industry mainly focused on
environmental evaluations. However, it is
crucial to examine the current studies on
sustainability assessments in this sector to
determine the latest level of sustainability
assessment from a three-bottom line
perspective. The present research was
carried out by conducting a decade-long
review of sustainability assessment studies of
the textile and apparel industry from 2009 to
2019 in order to address the gaps in the field.
The results of this research showed the basic
information about the level of assessment,
boundaries, sources, and weight of indicators
and the usefulness of the results.

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By synthesizing the opinions of various
researchers and balancing their findings,
methodologies, strengths, and weaknesses,
the proposed framework provides clarity and
helps to improve the field further. The
findings of the reviewed studies were briefly
discussed to expand the scope of the study.
The results showed that the recent
sustainability assessments of the textile and
apparel industry mainly focused on the
sector, manufactured products, and processes
at the work cell level while assessments at
the economy and plant level were not
emphasized.

In conclusion, the reviewed studies on

sustainability assessment in the textile and
apparel industry show that the majority of
studies have focused on environmental
evaluations and mainly focused on sector,
manufactured product and processes work
cell level. The studies have shown a limited
consideration of economy and plant level
assessments. Additionally, most of the studies
were conducted in developed countries and
relied on literature based indicators. To
improve the competitiveness and
performance of companies in the future,
more emphasis should be placed on
sustainability evaluations at the plant and
process work cell level using a three-bottom
line approach. The development of more
social and economic indicators would make
the sustainability assessments more efficient
and practical. Future reviews should consider
a wider scope of keywords and different
screening measures to include studies that
evaluate sustainability from all three
dimensions. This will provide valuable
insights for both researchers and
manufacturers in developing sustainability
indicators to enhance sustainability
performance in the textile and apparel
industry.

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4 Sustainable marketing in Fashion The fashion industry, with its significant
Industry – Green is the new black economic impact, has been the subject of
global research by scientific institutions.
Author(s): While the industry has experienced steady
SašaVirijevićJovanović, growth over the past decade, its continued
DraganDoljanica growth must be sustained and
environmentally conscious. The paper
examines the relationship between modern
fashion and its impact on the economy and
environment. The fast pace of fashion
production and consumption poses a threat
to the environment due to resource overuse
and neglect. Annually, the lack of recycling
and underutilization of clothing results in a
loss of over $500 billion in value. This not
only harm society and the environment, but
also threaten the profitability of fashion
companies given the increasing cost of
resources. To ensure sustainability,
immediate implementation is needed in areas
such as supply chain traceability, climate
change mitigation, resource efficiency, and
secure working conditions. This research
highlights the challenges faced by the fashion
industry in its journey towards sustainability
and offers potential solutions to overcome
these obstacles.

The fashion industry faces a major challenge

in balancing economic success with
environmental and social sustainability. This
requires the involvement and collaboration of
all stakeholders in the industry, including
owners, managers, designers, engineers,
researchers, workers, institutions, and
consumers. With the increasing awareness of
sustainability among consumers, fashion
brands have started to adopt sustainable
practices. However, there is still a long way to
go as the industry's sustainability score, as
per the Global Fashion Agenda, has only
improved from 32 to 42 out of 100 in recent
years.

To close this gap and make a real impact,

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5 The Social Impacts of Circular
Strategies in the Apparel Value
Chain; a Comparative Study
Between Three Countries
Author(s):
Lis J. Suarez-Visbal,
Jesús Rosales Carreón,
Blanca Corona,
Ernst Worrell
fashion brands need to focus on
implementing the four core priorities set by
the Global Fashion Agenda. These priorities
include improving supply chain traceability,
combating climate change, making efficient
use of resources, and ensuring secure work
environments. Addressing these issues
involves practices such as recycling and
reusing fashion products, implementing
circular fashion concepts, managing value
chains sustainably, protecting the
environment, and ensuring social justice and
labor rights in production. By prioritizing
these areas, the fashion industry can work
towards a more sustainable future.
The apparel industry plays a crucial role in
supporting the livelihoods of millions of
workers globally. Unfortunately, the sector is
plagued by human rights violations and
inadequate income for its workers, indicating
poor working conditions. Both established
businesses and startups are embracing
circular economy (CE) as a framework for
sustainability, addressing economic,
environmental and social concerns. However,
the social impact of CE is poorly understood,
with most studies only focusing on the
number of jobs created, neglecting the quality
and inclusiveness of these jobs. This research
paper examines the social impact of various
circular strategies implemented in three
countries, considering factors such as job
quality, sustainable livelihood for workers,
and gender equality. The results show that
CE's social ambitions are low and that current
circular strategies follow similar patterns of
gender discrimination and precarious
working conditions found in the traditional
linear apparel value chain. To overcome these
challenges, policymakers and businesses
must work together to increase the social
ambition of CE, coordinate policies and
strategies among stakeholders in different
countries, minimize trade-offs, and ensure a
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fair transition to a circular model. The study
also introduces a new social impact
assessment framework for circularity called
SIAF-CE⚥ and provides evidence of the social
impact of CE initiatives by both startups and
established businesses in regional and global
contexts.

The study focuses on examining the social

impact of various circular strategies (CSs) in
the apparel value chain (AVC) in the
Netherlands, Spain, and India. By using a
mixed-method approach and a new social
impact assessment framework called SIAF-
CE⚥, the study assesses the impact of CSs
from the workers' and companies'
perspectives. The results show that the
current social ambition of the circular
economy is low in all three countries and
does not prioritize the quality of jobs created.
Circular jobs tend to follow the same patterns
as traditional AVC jobs, perpetuating social
imbalances and inequalities. The quality of
jobs varies between minimum and living
wages, with India having the lowest quality of
jobs. Workers in all three countries have
sustainable livelihoods except for social and
financial assets, which are lower. Gender
equality is medium-high, but there are some
concerns regarding low participation in labor
unions, and general workers' disengagement
with their working conditions. In terms of
company type, startups show contrasting
earnings between men and women, with
women earning significantly less. In contrast,
incumbent businesses provide medium-high
quality jobs and reduce gender gaps.

From the workers' perspective, CSs are

replicating the feminization trend seen in the
traditional AVC, with women being
overrepresented in low-paying jobs with
poor working conditions. Decent working
conditions for informal workers and migrant
women workers are still lacking in the

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 industry. Women generally experience lower
social impact benefits than men in all three
countries. To ensure a just circular transition
for all, policymakers and businesses need to
strengthen their social impact ambition and
harmonize policies and strategies across
different countries to minimize trade-offs.
This study provides a solution to the lack of
gender-disaggregated data in the AVC and
serves as a basis for industry and policy
recommendations.

6 Slowing the fast fashion The fashion industry is a major contributor to

industry: An all-round global environmental pollution, due to its
perspective greenhouse gas emissions from clothing
manufacturing and transportation. There is
Author(s): an increasing number of consumers who are
PieraCentobelli , Stefano Abbate , willing to pay higher prices for sustainable
Simon Peter Nadeem and Jose clothing. This paper outlines the current
Arturo Garza-Reyes trends in the fashion, textile, and garment
industry, and highlights the values of circular
and slow fashion that companies and
policymakers need to focus on in order to
stay competitive and promote sustainable
development. The EU Strategy for Sustainable
and Circular Textiles aims to help fashion
enterprises create more circular, sustainable,
and resilient value chains. Key actions to
achieve this include promoting natural and
recycled textiles, designing for reuse and
recycling, encouraging second-hand retail
and repair, and implementing product-as-a-
service models for high-turnover items.

The paper focuses on current trends in

circular slow fashion businesses, identifying
the challenges, trends, and opportunities that
will arise in the near future. The paper
addresses three main research questions: 1)
what are the current trends and legislative
support for fashion industries, 2) what are
the primary characteristics of the circular
slow fashion model, and 3) what are the main
challenges, trends, and opportunities to be
exploited in the coming years by all

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stakeholders. The fast fashion model that
most fashion companies adopt is
characterized by speed, novelty, economy,
and disposable trends that cause a great
impact on the environment. Due to
outsourcing in underdeveloped countries,
fast fashion also takes advantage of a lack of
strict legislation on worker safety and health
protection. The EU has recently presented a
strategy for sustainable and circular textiles
development to tackle fast fashion's
environmental and ethical problems. This
strategy includes a transition pathway with
legislative measures and other activities,
including product design guidelines, labeling,
and stricter supply chain accountability. The
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) is
considered an essential instrument for
promoting sustainable goods.

This research highlights the importance for

fashion companies to prioritize sustainability
reporting and invest in digital technologies
such as blockchain to maintain transparency
in their supply chain. The study provides a
comprehensive framework for fashion firms
looking to integrate sustainability and
circular economy principles, which can serve
as a guide for governments in developing
countries to promote sustainable initiatives
and raise consumer awareness.
Recommendations include implementing a
short supply chain, a national occupational
health and safety policy, safety inspection
standards, reducing resource consumption
during production, and conducting
awareness campaigns to educate consumers
on the environmental, social, and economic
impacts of the clothing industry, overcoming
the sustainability bias.

This study focuses on sustainable fashion in

the European Union. Further research is
needed to compare and contrast this issue in
other countries. Additionally, this study is

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 exploratory in nature and does not establish
cause-and-effect relationships between
circular and slow fashion practices and
sustainability. Therefore, future studies
should utilize quantitative methods to
validate these findings. A long-term study
would also be beneficial in evaluating the
impact of the EU strategy on the shift from
fast to slow fashion. Furthermore, the role of
new digital technologies, such as blockchain,
in fashion businesses' decision-making and
consumer purchasing behavior is another
area for future research. Blockchain-enabled
product traceability gives customers a
detailed account of a garment's journey from
raw materials to final product, ensuring the
brand and consumer can confirm the
garment's authenticity and sustainability.

7 Reducing the Environmental This research explored the potential of

Impact of Clothing: Anclothing reuse business models to reduce
Exploration of the Potential of
pressure on raw materials and primary
Alternative Business Models production by increasing garment use.
Through in-depth interviews with seven
Author(s): business owners and six experts in clothing
Sarah Gray , Angela Druckman, sustainability, product lifespan extension,
JhumaSadhukhan and Keith and circular business models, the study
James aimed to understand the impacts of these
models on the environment. A typology was
created to categorize the models and analyze
the factors that contribute to their
environmental impacts, including the
management of transport, storage, and
cleaning. The results showed that the models
vary in their environmental impact and their
ability to reduce the environmental impact of
producing new garments. The displacement
rate was used to measure the effectiveness of
reuse models in reducing the total volume of
garment production. The findings highlight
the importance of considering the goals and
impacts of different reuse models to fully
understand their environmental impact.

The success of reducing the environmental

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impact of the clothing industry depends on
the adoption of sustainable business models.
To achieve this, the right consumer segment
needs to be targeted and the right product
needs to be offered. Research that considers
consumer preferences and the most effective
replacement of garments can provide useful
insights. The scalability of sustainable
business models is crucial, as big brands
currently dominate the market and most of
the sustainable businesses are small or
micro-sized. For widespread impact, either
the number of sustainable businesses needs
to increase or each business needs to grow,
while phasing out the conventional retail of
new products. However, there is a risk of
rebound effects outweighing environmental
gains as consumers may use sustainable
models as a way to save money, spending the
savings on activities with higher
environmental impact. The scalability
requires overcoming the barriers to acquiring
pre-worn clothing, such as perception about
fit, range of clothes available, and potential
wear and tear. Younger audiences are more
open to purchasing secondhand, and certain
garment types may be better suited to
extended lifespan. Achieving the UN's SDGs,
including responsible consumption and
production, requires scaling up reuse
business models and finding ways to
effectively reduce the environmental impact
of clothing. This can be achieved by large
clothing retailers switching to rental or
secondhand garments, or by more people
acquiring clothes from small secondhand
retailers or niche online platforms.

The paper explores the environmental impact

of different clothing business models, such as
resale, rental, and sharing platforms. The
study identifies factors affecting the
environment and provides ways to improve
business practices to promote sustainability.
A typology of business models was developed

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 based on the perspectives of both business
owners and users to understand how they
impact the environment. The study finds that
businesses can design their operations to
reduce environmental impact and encourages
users to be mindful of their own practices.
Alternatives for business ownership,
transport, garment care, and washing were
also considered to minimize the additional
impact from business operations. The
findings suggest that it is possible to reduce
the environmental burden from clothing
consumption through the implementation of
different business models. The paper
highlights the need for many businesses,
including small enterprises, to adopt a
responsible consumption and production
approach and provide lasting value to
customers who seek sustainable fashion
options.

8 Sustainable Fashion: Current This study aims to bring together the

and Future Research Directions fragmented sustainable fashion literature and
provide an overview of the current
This is a peer-reviewed, knowledge in the field. It seeks to identify
accepted author manuscript of opportunities for societal impact and future
the following research article: research directions.The findings show that
Mukendi, A., Davies, I., sustainable fashion research is divided into
McDonagh, P., &Glozer, S. two approaches: pragmatic change and
(2020). radical change. Seven distinct research
streams were identified that encompass the
management discipline, exploring ways to
change organizational and consumer
behavior towards a more sustainable future.

The study provides a comprehensive

overview of sustainable fashion in
management literature up to June 2019, with
465 articles being included in the review.
However, due to space constraints, it may not
cover all relevant contributions in the
constantly evolving field of sustainable
fashion.

This review aimed to bring together the

Page | 18
 existing knowledge on sustainable fashion
(SF) in the management literature and
identify opportunities for future impact and
research. The review found that SF research
is mainly divided into two approaches:
pragmatic change and radical change. The
study highlights seven research streams that
explore how organizational and consumer
behaviors can be transformed for a
sustainable future.

The review also reveals several limitations in

current SF research, such as the need for
cross-disciplinary collaboration and a clearer
understanding of habit formation at both
individual and corporate levels.

In terms of practical implications, the review

suggests that the fashion industry,
particularly retailers and brand owners, can
play a vital role in promoting SF by improving
communication with consumers. This can be
done by establishing a consistent labeling
approach and utilizing digital channels to
provide transparency in sustainability
communications. It is important to link
sustainability with personal and collective
benefits, such as mental well-being and
respect for producers. The industry should
also focus on developing supplier networks
and promoting supplier innovation to tackle
sustainability challenges.

In addition, the review stresses the need for

collective action from all stakeholders,
including governments, NGOs, education, and
the third sector, to reshape the current
education system, remove barriers to
sustainable consumption, and support
sustainable business models. The creation of
a platform for transparent communication
and collaboration among stakeholders is
crucial for lasting change.

9 The global environmental The rise of fast fashion, with its cheap and

Page | 19
injustice of fast fashion
Author(s):
Rachel Bick , Erika Halsey and led to increased clothing consumption and a
Christine C. Ekeng
trendy clothing, has had a significant impact
on both consumers and the environment. The
fast-paced nature of this industry model has
disregard for the negative consequences it
brings. From water-intensive cotton
production, to untreated dye discharge, and
poor working conditions for textile workers,
the environmental and social impacts of the
textile industry are widespread. This has
resulted in a global environmental justice
issue, as those who work in or live near
textile manufacturing facilities bear a
disproportionate burden of environmental
health hazards. Additionally, the increased
consumption of clothing has led to a rise in
textile waste, particularly in low and middle-
income countries, which often lack the
necessary resources and support to address
this issue. In this paper, it is discussed about
the role of industry, policymakers,
consumers, and scientists in promoting
sustainable and ethical textile production and
consumption in an equitable manner.
In the last two decades, fast fashion has
become a prevalent business model for big-
name fashion brands, characterized by the
production and sale of large quantities of
cheap clothing. However, this business model
has resulted in widespread environmental
and social degradation along every step of the
supply chain, from the cultivation of water-
intensive cotton to the release of untreated
dyes into local water sources, to poor
working conditions and low wages for
workers. Despite the significance of these
environmental and human health risks, they
have been largely ignored in discussions and
scientific literature related to environmental
justice.
The widespread social and environmental
abuses in fast fashion deserve recognition as
a global environmental justice issue.
Page | 20
 Environmental health scientists play a crucial
role in promoting evidence-based public
health policies and practices. This issue is
reminiscent of historical environmental
injustices in the United States, where
communities in low and middle-income
countries (LMICs) bear a disproportionate
burden of environmental health hazards.
Therefore, there is an urgent need for
research that explores the adverse health
outcomes associated with fast fashion at each
stage of the supply chain and post-consumer
processes, particularly in LMICs.

Advancements in this area of research will

inform the development of public health
policies and practices that promote
sustainable production and ethical
consumption in a fair and equitable manner.
This will help to ensure that the communities
who work in or live near textile
manufacturing facilities are protected from
the negative impacts of fast fashion, and that
textile waste is managed in an
environmentally responsible manner. By
recognizing the global environmental justice
dilemma posed by fast fashion, and taking
action to address it, we can help to create a
more sustainable and equitable future for all.

10 Environmental Impacts in the This paper aims to address the

Fashion Industry: A Life-cycle environmental and social issues in the
and Stakeholder Framework fashion industry by combining life-cycle
assessment and stakeholder analysis to
Author(s): Anika Kozlowski, create a comprehensive framework. By
Michal Bardecki and Cory Searcy utilizing these tools, the paper argues that it
is possible to identify and understand the
different stakeholders and their respective
interests, responsibilities, and accountability
in the fashion industry. The purpose of this
framework is to provide a basis for the
development and implementation of policies
and programs that respond to environmental
and social concerns within the context of
corporate social responsibility. The paper

Page | 21
highlights the importance of including both
environmental and social considerations in
decision-making processes and emphasizes
the need for a systemic approach that
considers all stages of a product's life-cycle.

The fashion industry has come under scrutiny

in recent years as a significant contributor to
global environmental problems. To better
understand the environmental impact of
fashion products, life-cycle assessment (LCA)
is used to analyze all stages of a product's life.
This method provides a systematic way to
identify the impacts of each stage, leading to
an understanding of the most appropriate
responses. On the other hand, stakeholder
analysis is a process of identifying individuals
and groups who should have a say in the
development of policies and programs.

This paper aims to provide a framework for

addressing the environmental and social
aspects of sustainable development in the
fashion industry by combining life-cycle
assessment and stakeholder analysis. It
highlights the importance of identifying
stakeholders and their interests,
responsibilities, and accountability in
developing and implementing effective
policies and programs. The framework
provides a holistic approach to fashion design
by considering the environmental, social, and
financial aspects of fashion production,
thereby helping the industry to address the
negative impacts of fashion products
throughout their lifecycle.

The fashion industry is facing growing

scrutiny for its significant impact on global
environmental issues. To address this issue, a
combination of life-cycle assessment (LCA)
and stakeholder analysis is proposed as a
solution. The LCA provides a systematic
method for understanding the environmental
impacts of a product's entire life cycle, while

Page | 22
 stakeholder analysis identifies individuals
and groups whose interests must be
considered in policy and program
development. By integrating these two
approaches, a comprehensive and holistic
approach to sustainable development in the
fashion industry can be developed. The
industry, which has grown in cultural and
economic importance, must take
responsibility for the products it places in the
marketplace and must address the negative
impacts of the life-cycle of apparel products.
The adoption of Corporate Social
Responsibility (CSR) principles could lead to
sustainability becoming a well-established
aspect of fashion design and development.

11 Sustainable approach to counter The fashion industry has been facing growing
the environmental impact of fast criticism for its negative impact on the
fashion environment. Despite this, the rise of fast
fashion, which offers low-cost clothing based
Author(s):ShaliniRukhaya, on current luxury trends, has contributed to
SarojYadav, Neelam M Rose, the continued growth of the industry.
Arpita Grover and DikshaBisht Environmental sustainability must be a
priority for industries that have a negative
impact on the environment, and the fashion
industry is no exception. The impacts of the
fashion industry include the production of
over 92 million tonnes of waste annually and
the consumption of 79 trillion litres of water.
From the use of water-intensive cotton to the
release of untreated dyes into local water
sources, the environmental and social costs
associated with textile production are
widespread. The heavy production, use, and
disposal of textiles have a significant
environmental impact throughout the entire
product life cycle. Therefore, the fashion
industry must address its unsustainable
practices. Over the past decade, increased
public awareness of environmental issues has
prompted clothing retailers and
manufacturers to adopt sustainable practices
to minimize their impact on the environment.

Page | 23
The fast fashion industry is notorious for its
excessive consumption of resources,
including both renewable and non-renewable
resources. The entire lifecycle of clothing,
from the production of fibers to distribution
and end-of-life disposal, requires the use of
vast amounts of water, oil, and land.
Additionally, synthetic clothing releases
plastic particles into the oceans with every
wash. The manufacturing of cotton, which is
the chief pesticide-consuming crop in the
world, also requires large amounts of fresh
water. These environmental concerns
highlight the need for the fashion industry to
adopt sustainable practices to minimize its
impact on the environment.

The fast fashion business model, which has

become prevalent among big name fashion
brands in the last two decades, has resulted
in a significant impact on the environment
and society. Despite the growing awareness
of the negative consequences of fast fashion,
there is limited scientific research on the
matter. The fashion industry faces high
competition and cost pressure, making it
challenging to change business practices.
However, it is crucial that the industry takes
responsibility for its environmental impact
and works towards minimizing it. The textile
industry, in particular, must invest in the
latest pollution-control technology to remove
harmful substances from waste streams.
Research on the health outcomes associated
with fast fashion across all stages of the
supply chain and post-consumer process is
also needed to inform public health.

To address the negative health impacts of fast

fashion, research is needed to understand the
consequences of fast fashion across the entire
supply chain and post-consumer process.
This research will inform the development of
public health policies and practices that
promote sustainable production and ethical

Page | 24
 consumption. A shift in the fashion industry
towards sustainability will require
collaboration between designers,
manufacturers, stakeholders, and consumers.
To support this transition, a functional
recycling system for textiles must be
established. Changing consumer behavior
and the meaning of fashion will also be a
major challenge, as consumers must be
willing to pay more for clothing that accounts
for its environmental impact. This requires a
shift in perspective, where fashion is seen as
a functional product rather than just
entertainment.

12 Environmental and Social The fashion industry has a significant impact

Impact of Fashion: Towards an on both the natural and social environment
Eco-friendly, Ethical Fashion due to its complex and diverse supply chain.
Fast fashion, with its emphasis on low cost
Author:Sudeshna Mukherjee and rapidly changing styles, has resulted in
Centre for Women‟s Studies, an increase in consumption and waste. Every
Bangalore University. step of the clothing life cycle generates
Bangalore:, India potential environmental and occupational
hazards, leading to an overall negative impact
on the environment. Sustainable or ethical
fashion is an alternative approach that seeks
to minimize the environmental and social
impacts caused by conventional production
techniques. This paper aims to raise
awareness among consumers about the
impact of their clothing choices and to
encourage consideration of the entire life
cycle of clothing, from raw materials to
disposal, in order to promote more
sustainable and ethical fashion practices.

The clothing industry is a major contributor

to environmental problems. The following
are some of the major environmental issues
associated with clothing:

a) Resource Consumption: The production of

clothing requires significant amounts of
resources such as fossil fuels and water, from
obtaining raw materials to manufacturing

Page | 25
and transportation.

b) Greenhouse Gas Emissions: The UK

clothing industry alone releases 3.1 million
tonnes of CO2 equivalent per year,
accounting for 0.4% of total UK emissions.
The GHG emissions vary depending on the
fabric type and processing method, with
polyester/cotton blends having the highest
CO2 emissions during steaming and wool
having a higher impact earlier in the
production due to methane released by
sheep.

c) Land Use: The production of natural fibers

often leads to land degradation, soil and
groundwater pollution, and loss of
biodiversity, especially in monocultures.

d) Toxic Production Processes: Some textile

manufacturing practices use hazardous
chemicals which can be released into the
environment through effluent.

e) Landfill: Most textiles in the UK end up in

landfill, taking up valuable space and
releasing GHGs as the biodegradable fraction
breaks down.

The fashion industry has several major

environmental footprints, including the
production of different fibers, such as natural
fibers (e.g. wool, cotton, and silk) and
synthetic fibers (e.g. polyester and nylon),
which consume non-renewable resources
and release pollutants into the environment.
Conventional cotton farming, which requires
a large amount of water and pesticides, also
has a significant impact on the environment.
The manufacture of textiles contributes to air
pollution, which is a major problem for the
industry. The production of synthetic fibers
and rayon also contributes to deforestation
and pollution, and the use of hazardous
chemicals in the viscose process can pose

Page | 26
dangers to factory workers and the
surrounding communities. The negative
impacts of the textile industry include high
water usage and contamination, use of
hazardous dyes and chemicals, generation of
hazardous waste, and increased energy costs.
Textile production requires high volumes of
water, leading to large volumes of
wastewater which can contain chemicals
harmful to the environment. The dyeing
process can also include toxic chemicals such
as dioxins, heavy metals, and formaldehyde.
The synthetic production of dyes is energy-
intensive and can generate greenhouse gases.
The transportation of dyes from
manufacturing plants to textile facilities is a
major cost factor and logistic challenge. The
increasing national wardrobe, or stockpiling
of clothing and textiles, is leading to a
growing volume of latent waste that
eventually enters the solid waste stream. The
rise of consumerism and the trend of
disposable clothing have contributed to this
problem.

The fashion industry has significant social

impacts, including globalization and the
vulnerability of global capital leading to
volatile employment opportunities,
particularly in developing countries. The
industry also has a growing feminization of
the workforce, with women being preferred
as cheap labor and being confined to specific
low-paying jobs. There is also a segmented
labor market, with casualization and indirect
recruitment through labor contractors. Mode
of wage payment remains a problem, with
real wages continuing to stagnate despite
periodic wage agreements. Workers' rights
are also a concern, with workers often
working long hours in unhealthy conditions
and not receiving a living wage. The industry
also employs a significant informal sector
workforce, which is vulnerable to
exploitation.

Page | 27
Ethical fashion is a response to the negative
environmental and social impacts of
conventional fashion production. It aims to
provide a platform for ethnic communities,
fair treatment for workers, and reduce
harmful environmental effects. Ethical
fashion involves designers collaborating with
crafts people and artisans, giving them
recognition and compensation for their craft.
Reuse and remanufacture are key
components of ethical fashion, as they help to
reduce waste and provide a valuable
commodity in secondary markets. End-of-life
clothing can be sold, even if it is soiled or
torn, as it can be recycled into fibers for
various industries.

The fashion industry requires a collective

effort from designers, manufacturers, and
consumers to address the impact of
production processes and consumption
patterns on the environment and society.
Ethical fashion aims to meet consumers'
demands for style, comfort, quality, value,
and aesthetics while minimizing
environmental and social harm. Consumers
are encouraged to be mindful of their buying
habits and the impact they have on the
environment and cultures.

Eco-friendly fashion principles include:

 Using organic raw materials such as

pesticide-free cotton and silk
produced from worms fed on organic
trees.
 Implementing environmentally-
friendly production processes that
avoid harmful chemicals and bleaches.
 Utilizing recycled and reused textiles
in fashion products, including high-
quality garments made from second-
hand clothes and recycled plastic
bottles.

Page | 28

13 Sustainable marketing in Fashion
Industry – Green is the new black
Author(s):
1. SašaVirijevićJovanović
2. DraganDoljanica
 Designing products to last, reducing
the need for frequent replacements.
 Ensuring fair trade practices and
decent working conditions for the
individuals who make the products.
 Incorporating sustainable fabrics such
as organic cotton, organic silk, jute,
and recycled fabrics into fashion
designs. Other fabrics like linen, silk,
kenaf, and switch grass are also being
explored for their potential in ethical
fashion
The Indian government's Ministry of
Environment and Forests has established the
"Ecomark" scheme in 1991 to promote
awareness of the environmental impact of
products and to make it easier for consumers
to identify eco-friendly products. This scheme
considers the impact of a product from its
raw material extraction, through
manufacturing and to final disposal, and is
based on a "cradle to grave" approach. As
ethical consumers, it is our responsibility to
make purchasing decisions based on a
product's eco-friendliness, and our
awareness will encourage producers to adopt
more sustainable practices and contribute to
a cleaner and greener planet.
The fashion industry is one of the fastest
growing industries, but its rapid growth has
also resulted in negative impacts on the
environment and society. With a focus on
maximizing profits, the industry has
neglected environmental sustainability and
the efficient use of resources. This leads to an
estimated loss of over $500 billion per year
due to clothing underutilization and lack of
recycling. The fashion industry needs to
prioritize sustainable development by
implementing traceability in the supply chain,
addressing climate change, using resources
efficiently, and providing secure work
environments. These measures will not only
Page | 29
benefit society and the environment, but also
ensure the long-term profitability of fashion
companies. The paper analyzes the concept of
modern fashion from the aspect of economy
and its effects on the environment. With the
current pace of production and consumption
of fashion products, the industry faces the
threat caused by the neglect of the
environment and excessive use of resources.

Yes, finding a balance between the

environment, society, and economy is indeed
a major challenge for the fashion industry as
it moves towards sustainability. The
challenge lies in bringing together all the
stakeholders and aligning their interests and
goals in a way that is sustainable,
environmentally friendly, and economically
viable. This requires collaboration and
coordination among all parties involved, and
a deep understanding of the interconnections
between the environment, society, and the
economy. Consumers also play an important
role in this challenge, as they can influence
the fashion industry by demanding eco-
friendly products and promoting sustainable
practices.

The fashion industry is facing challenges in its

path towards sustainable development,
especially finding the balance between
environment, society, and economy. The
modern consumers see sustainability as an
important factor in their buying behavior,
which has influenced fashion brands to adopt
sustainable practices. However, the industry
is still far from being sustainable, as indicated
by the 58-point gap in the fashion industry's
Pulse Score. To improve the sustainability of
the fashion industry, there are four core
priorities that need to be addressed
immediately, such as supply chain
traceability, combating climate change,
efficient use of resources, and secure work
environment. These priorities are related to

Page | 30
 issues such as recycling and reusing of
fashion products, circular fashion, value chain
management, environmental protection,
social justice, and labour rights.

14 Sustainable marketing activities The study highlights the importance of

of traditional fashion market and sustainable marketing activities in the
brand loyalty traditional fashion market, with a focus on
the impact of these activities on brand image,
Author(s): trust, satisfaction, and loyalty. The results
JaesukJunga , Sang Jin Kimb , indicate that sustainable practices have a
Kyung HoonKimb positive effect on these factors, implying the
need for organizations in the fashion industry
to implement effective sustainable
management strategies. The findings offer
valuable insights for corporate executives
and marketers to improve their sustainable
marketing efforts.

This study aims to understand the impact of

brand image on consumer satisfaction, trust,
and loyalty. The results show that sustainable
marketing activities in the traditional fashion
market, such as economic activities like
modernizing facilities and investing in
technology, environmental efforts like
practicing green management, and cultural
events like cooking and song contests, have a
positive effect on constructing a positive
brand image. However, social sustainable
activities like volunteering or food sharing do
not have a significant impact on brand image.
Additionally, the results indicate that a
positive brand image resulting from
sustainable marketing activities leads to
higher consumer satisfaction and trust. Thus,
it can be concluded that conducting
economic, environmental, and cultural
sustainable marketing activities can
positively influence consumer perception and
satisfaction with the brand, but social
sustainable activities may not have the same
impact.

The study aimed to examine the influence of

Page | 31
brand image on brand satisfaction, trust, and
loyalty formation. The results showed that
sustainable marketing activities in the
traditional fashion market, such as economic,
environmental, and cultural activities, have a
positive effect on brand image. The image
formed through these activities respond to
consumer demands and expectations, leading
to customer satisfaction and trust. The
combination of brand image, satisfaction, and
trust has a positive effect on consumer
loyalty, which helps build a long-lasting
relationship between consumers and
traditional fashion market brands. The
findings of this study can provide a
foundation for further development in
related theories and offer insights for
traditional fashion markets to use sustainable
marketing activities effectively to increase
market share and secure a long-term
advantage.

It examine the impact of brand image on

customer satisfaction, trust, and loyalty
formation. It also seeks to understand the
role of brand image, customer satisfaction,
and trust in developing a consistent brand
attitude. The study found that economic,
environmental, and cultural sustainable
marketing activities had a positive effect on
creating a positive image of traditional
fashion markets. However, social sustainable
marketing activities had no significant impact
on brand image. The study also revealed that
customer satisfaction and trust positively
influenced brand image and that brand
image, customer satisfaction, and trust all
positively impacted customer loyalty. The
study has both academic and practical
implications. Academically, it provides a basis
for further development of related theories
and enriches existing literature on the
traditional fashion market. Practically, it
suggests that marketing managers should
operate environmental activities and engage

Page | 32
 in economic, social, environmental, and
cultural sustainable activities to improve
brand image and customer satisfaction, trust,
and loyalty. The study has limitations,
including a lack of cross-national analysis and
a need for more in-depth comparisons with
other traditional fashion markets or
companies engaged in sustainable marketing
activities.

15 Toxic Waste From Textile The textile industry is a global market that
Industries involves the conversion of raw materials like
cotton or wool into yarn and then into cloth.
Author(s): The origin of the textile industry began in
N.M.Sivaram,P.M. Britain with the development of spinning and
Gopal,DebabrataBarik weaving technologies, but later moved to
Europe and North America in the 19th
century. The textile industry produces a wide
range of products for various fields, including
clothing, healthcare, automobiles, and many
more. The industry is present in nearly every
country, which also means it generates waste,
uses precious resources, and causes
pollution.

The global textile industry market was valued

at $667.5 billion in 2015 and is expected to
reach $842.6 billion in 2020, a growth of
26.2% since 2015. The Asia-Pacific region is
the largest contributor to the global textile
market with a 54.6% share, while Europe
accounts for 20.6%. The total annual growth
rate of the market was 4.4% between 2011
and 2015 and is forecasted to be 4.8%
between 2015 and 2020. The growth of the
textile industry and the consumption of
textile products will lead to an increase in the
production of textile products.

The textile industry is a complex and multi-

faceted entity that utilizes a wide range of
fibers and chemicals to produce textiles. The
processing and chemical operations in the
industry can lead to the production of
wastewater containing high levels of

Page | 33
biological and chemical oxygen demand, total
dissolved solids, and alkalinity, which can
cause environmental damage if not treated
properly. The textile industry also
contributes to air pollution and noise
pollution. In addition, the industry consumes
significant amounts of energy and produces
solid waste, odors, and air emissions, which
can also be a problem in certain treatments.
The presence of toxic chemicals such as
sulfur, vat dyes, heavy metals, and certain
auxiliary chemicals in the effluent can make it
highly toxic and harmful to the environment
and human health. Approximately 40% of
globally used colorants contain organic
chlorine, a known carcinogen. The
wastewater from the textile industry contains
organic materials that are of concern for
water treatment and can pose a risk to
human health through air emissions or skin
absorption.

The impact of textile industry on the

environment has been a growing concern in
recent years. The production process of
textiles involves the use of various chemicals,
water, and energy which can result in
pollution and waste. The discharge of
untreated wastewater containing chemicals,
dyes, and other pollutants can harm aquatic
life and degrade water quality. Additionally,
air pollution caused by dust and emissions
during production can have negative impacts
on human health and the environment. The
production of synthetic textiles also
generates plastic waste which contributes to
the growing problem of plastic pollution.
However, with the increasing awareness of
environmental issues, there have been efforts
to reduce the environmental impact of textile
production through the use of sustainable
materials, energy-efficient processes, and
improved waste management and have a
severe impact on the environment, including
water pollution, soil contamination, and air

Page | 34
 pollution. The presence of heavy metals and
toxic chemicals in the effluent is a major
concern as it can lead to environmental
degradation and human illnesses. To mitigate
the environmental impact of the textile
industry, it is important to adopt sustainable
and eco-friendly manufacturing practices,
implement effective wastewater treatment
methods, and minimize the use of hazardous
chemicals in the textile processing. The
industry must also comply with the
environmental regulations set by the
governments and work towards reducing its
carbon footprint and overall environmental
impact.

This approach not only helps in reducing the

environmental pollution but also provides a
sustainable source of energy. Furthermore, it
also offers a cost-effective solution as the cost
of treatment is reduced while generating
energy. However, it is important to note that
this technology is still in its developmental
stages and further research and development
is needed to make it a widespread solution
for the textile industry.

16 Enablers and Barriers of Sustainable Manufacturing (SM) is crucial for

Sustainable Manufacturing: organizations as it allows for the use of
Results from a Survey of natural resources while reducing waste and
Researchers and Industry environmental pollution. Despite its
Professionals importance, the adoption of SM remains a
challenge for organizations due to a lack of
Author(s): knowledge on how to use the enablers and
NeerajBhanota, P. overcome the barriers of SM. This paper aims
VenkateswaraRaoa, S.G. to present the perspectives of various
Deshmukha researchers and industry professionals on the
important enablers and barriers of SM, and
analyze their opinions using statistical
techniques to identify differences and help
organizations implement SM strategies
effectively.

The study focused on surveying researchers

and industry professionals globally and in the

Page | 35
Ludhiana city of India about their opinions on
the important enablers and barriers to
sustainable manufacturing (SM). A
questionnaire was developed, reviewed, and
revised for clarity and understandability. The
researchers were contacted through the
Scopus database and referrals, resulting in
106 responses (35% response rate). The
industry professionals were contacted
through email requests sent to three main
organizations in Ludhiana, resulting in 46
responses obtained online (21% response
rate) and 53 responses obtained through
personal visits (total of 99 responses, or 33%
response rate). The survey was conducted
over 2 months, with reminders sent to the
respondents.

This study assesses the importance of

enablers and barriers of sustainable
manufacturing by surveying both researchers
and industry professionals. The reliability of
the data collected through the questionnaire
was assessed using Cronbach's alpha, which
showed a value of 0.959 for enablers and
0.867 for barriers, indicating that the data is
highly reliable. The importance of each
enabler and barrier was calculated by their
mean value on a scale of 1-5, with the mean
value greater than 2.54 for all enablers and
barriers in both groups. The standard
deviation was used to measure the
confidence in statistical conclusions and the
data from both groups had a minimum
standard deviation of 0.81 and a maximum of
1.19. The results suggest that the most
important enabler for researchers was
"economic benefits" (mean of 3.92), and for
industry professionals was "improving
quality" (mean of 4.10). The least important
enabler for researchers was "attracting
foreign direct investment" (mean of 3.08),
and for industry professionals was
"government promotions and regulations"
(mean of 2.54).

Page | 36
The results of the study show that there is a
common consensus between the researchers
and industry professionals on 5 enablers and
8 barriers with regards to sustainability in
industry. Lowering manufacturing cost,
investment in innovation and technology, and
pressure from the market were identified as
the top 3 enablers, while lack of awareness of
sustainability concepts and cost too high
were the top 2 barriers. On the other hand,
for enablers with a significant difference, the
impact of government promotions and
regulations, economic benefits, and attracting
foreign direct investment was higher among
researchers, while the impact of improving
quality and education and training system
was higher among industry professionals. In
terms of barriers with a significant difference,
the impact of lack of awareness of local
customers in green products and lack of
standardized metrics or performance
benchmarks was higher among researchers.

The study presented in this paper used an

online questionnaire survey to gather
responses on enablers and barriers related to
the strategic implementation of sustainable
manufacturing (SM). The data was analyzed
statistically to validate the results. The study
found a significant difference in the line of
operation between researchers and industry
professionals when it comes to SM. However,
both groups need to collaborate and work
together to overcome the barriers and
enhance the enablers. The study suggests that
it is important to identify causal relationships
between enablers and barriers and focus on
critical ones for more effective results.
Additionally, case studies that demonstrate
how sustainability problems have been
tackled in real-life scenarios are needed to
guide implementation efforts. The limitations
of the survey include the limitations of the
respondents' perceptions and beliefs, the

Page | 37
 limited coverage of industry professionals,
and the fact that the results are
representative only of the city of Punjab.

17 Management of sustainable The purpose of the paper is to examine the

fashion retail based on reuse– A challenges in managing a reuse-based fashion
struggle with multiple logics
Author(s):
Lars Hedegård , Eva Gustafsson three local logics (shopping mall, reuse, and
and Manoj Kumar Paras
retail initiative. The study uses institutional
logics as a framework and analyzes the
management of a reuse-based mall using
work integration). The findings show that the
interplay of different logics creates
complexity in the daily and strategic
management of the mall and the outcome
depends on which rationality is enacted by
the actors involved. The study highlights the
importance of acknowledging and balancing
the presence of multiple logics and the need
for competence in all logics for successful
management. The paper also suggests that
there are inherent managerial contradictions
in sustainable fashion retail and that it is
crucial for managers to continuously
scrutinize their strategies and actions to
avoid imbalanced between the logics.

Institutional logics are frameworks that guide

individuals and organizations in their
interests, values, and assumptions. Different
logics can have conflicting definitions of what
is rational and result in tensions and conflicts.
However, they can also co-exist and support
each other. In the context of a sustainable
fashion retail concept like ReTuna, multiple
logics, such as retail, reuse, and work
integration, are enacted by the actors through
talk and actions. The physical surroundings
and material aspects also contribute to the
enactment of these logics. A typology of local
logics is used to analyze the mall context,
which consists of four dimensions: basis of
attention (the overarching goal), basis of
strategy (how the goal shall be achieved),
primary actors (most salient actors), and
focus of practices (the focus of the primary

Page | 38
actors' practices). This typology makes it
possible to understand the logics and
practices in sustainable fashion retail.

The mall management emphasizes the

creation of a system for market transactions,
known as the shopping mall logic. This is
reflected in the evaluation of potential
tenants, which is based on financial
calculations and potential customers, as well
as the organization of the mall, which is
traditional with independent retailers. The
decentralization gives each tenant full
responsibility for shaping the reuse process,
but the lack of support and coordination has
limited the possibilities of creating efficient
production processes for preparing fashion
for reuse. Most of the tenants selling fashion
stress the work integration logic, either
directly for rehabilitation and integration of
the unemployed/immigrants, or indirectly
with the help of public subsidies. However,
this has led to a failure in some cases, where
the staff lacks competence and experience,
and the commercial aspect of the business is
neglected. The reuse ambition has been
marginalized and an efficient production
system has not been developed.

The analysis of sustainable fashion retail

based on reuse reveals a complex interplay
between different logics, constraints and
challenges. The actors' actions and priorities,
knowledge, experience and material
conditions determine the success of the retail
process. The logics are performative in
nature and change depending on the actors'
actions and the situation. A lack of
coordination, decentralization and
knowledge of key actors leads to non-
standardized and dependent processes,
making it difficult to balance the logics and
achieve the desired outcome. The physical
surroundings, waste management, and
donated goods also play a role in determining

Page | 39
 how the logics are managed. The material
embeddedness of the actors influences the
prioritization of logics, hence the physical
surroundings and access play a crucial role.

In summary, the paper aims to highlight the

complexities in managing sustainable fashion
based on reuse and identifies the obstacles in
the process. The difficulty arises from the
need to balance different logics related to the
shopping mall, reuse, and work integration.
The lack of knowledge, experience, skills,
coordination, and material conditions lead to
divergent enactments of the logics, resulting
in managerial contradictions. The findings
highlight the importance of discussing the
different divergent sustainability dimensions
and show that differences within an actor and
the surrounding material context influence
the enactment and management of logics.

The study highlights the importance of

considering the complexities in managing
sustainable fashion based on reuse. The
actors involved in such an initiative might
have conflicting goals and rationalities, which
can hinder the achievement of a common
sustainability goal. The management of the
initiative should be conscious of these
divergent demands and seek to balance them.
It is also important to scrutinize the
embeddedness of the initiative to ensure that
all logics are adequately considered. The
study suggests that support should be
provided to the actors involved through
education and facilities to ensure efficient
production processes. However, the study
has limitations, as it only covers a three-year
period and cannot elaborate on long-term
developments. Further long-term studies are
needed to observe and analyze the
management of different logics over time.

18 Sustainable Marketing The study found that Portuguese consumers

Orientation in the Clothing have a positive association between their

Page | 40
Industry: Slow or Fast Fashion?
Author(s):
Joana Sofia Guedes Silva a , Jana intention, willingness to pay a premium, and
Turčínková b and José Magano
consideration for sustainability and their
preference for slow fashion clothing. This is
reflected in their perceived value, purchase
likelihood to recommend slow fashion
products. The results of the exploratory
quantitative study and the single-case study
of a Portuguese fashion brand both suggest
that the fashion industry is adapting its
business models in response to increased
environmental awareness and demand for
sustainable clothing. The study highlights the
importance of considering sustainability in
both the production and purchase of clothing
and the positive impact it can have on
consumer behavior. The findings contribute
to the understanding of how the clothing
industry and consumer behavior are evolving
in response to the growing demand for
sustainable fashion.
The literature review explores the
dimensions of sustainability in the context of
slow fashion. Sustainability is a systemic
concept that refers to meeting the present
needs without compromising the ability of
future generations to meet their own needs.
The 3Ps (people, planet, and profits) were
postulated by Elkington (1998) as the three
dimensions of true sustainability. Economic
sustainability refers to a system of
production that satisfies present
consumption levels without compromising
future needs, social sustainability refers to a
system of social organization that eliminates
poverty, and environmental sustainability
refers to preserving ecosystem integrity and
biodiversity. The fashion industry is highly
complex and characterized by long global
supply chains, globalization, and new
communication technologies. The fashion
industry, driven by speed, change, and quick
responsiveness, has negative societal impacts
due to extensive use of resources, short
product life cycles, and over-consumption.
Page | 41
Consumers are demanding more
transparency in the value chain and expect
brands to conduct their business towards
sustainability through the economic, social,
and environmental dimensions. Slow fashion
is a sustainable approach to fashion that
focuses on creating timeless, high-quality
clothing made from environmentally
sustainable materials. It is a response to the
negative environmental impacts of fast
fashion and seeks to reduce waste and
improve the welfare of workers in the fashion
industry. Slow fashion is produced in small
quantities, is locally oriented, and focuses on
high quality, which encourages consumers to
keep their clothing for a longer period of
time. The slow fashion movement requires
change from both the industry and
consumers, with a shift towards valuing
quality over convenience and making
conscious long-term choices. The circular
economy is an economic model that seeks to
balance economic development with
environmental protection and resource
conservation. It is based on the principles of
minimizing waste and pollution, keeping
products and materials in use, and
regenerating natural systems. The fashion
industry is affected by this trend towards
sustainability, with leading fashion
companies encouraged to develop circular
systems and innovative technologies.
However, the transition to a circular economy
in the fashion industry is slow, due to
regulatory deficiencies, logistical problems,
lack of resources, and inadequate
infrastructure. The linear economy, on the
other hand, is unsustainable and contributes
to resource depletion, instability, and
pollution. In a circular economy, materials
are used in cyclical flows, preserving and
transmitting their value, and the concept of
waste is eliminated.

The paper studies how consumers are

Page | 42

19 Article: Henninger, C.E.,
Alevizou, P.J. and Oates, C.J.
orcid.org/0000-0001-8848-
9178 (2016) What is sustainable
fashion? Journal of Fashion
Marketing and Management.
ISSN 1361-2026
changing their behavior and views towards
sustainability in the clothing business,
specifically in regards to slow and fast
fashion. A quantitative study found strong
positive associations between consumers'
consideration for slow fashion and their
purchase intentions, willingness to pay a
premium, and recommendation. The study
also showed differences in behaviorbased on
demographics such as gender, education, and
age. A case study of MO Fashion, a Portuguese
fast-fashion retailer, was also performed and
showed how the company is making efforts to
deliver sustainable fast fashion. The findings
provide valuable insights for clothing
companies and suggest there is room for both
slow and fast fashion to accommodate
sustainability concerns. However, the
limitations of the study include the sample
size and method, which do not allow for
generalization of the results, and the lack of
validation of the scales used in the survey.
Future research could address these
limitations.
The purpose of this paper is to examine the
concept of sustainable fashion from the
perspective of micro-organizations, experts,
and consumers. The research is qualitative
and uses a multi-methods case study
approach, including semi-structured
interviews, semiotics, and questionnaires.
The findings indicate that the interpretation
of sustainable fashion is context and person-
dependent and a matrix of key criteria is
provided to find common elements. The
research has limitations due to its limited
sample size and data collected only in the UK.
The paper has practical implications for
micro-organizations to avoid challenges such
as greenwashing and promote their fashion
collections more effectively by identifying key
sustainable fashion criteria. The findings also
have social implications by providing
assurance to consumers that sustainable
fashion is produced with social aspects in
Page | 43
mind. The paper proposes a matrix that
allows micro-organizations to clearly identify
their collections as sustainable, which is
original and valuable in the field.

The concept of slow fashion and how it differs

from fast fashion. Slow fashion is based on
the principles of sustainability and aims to
prioritize the well-being of workers, reduce
environmental impact, and challenge the fast-
paced production cycle of the fast fashion
industry. The focus of slow fashion is on
empowering workers and creating a more
equitable and sustainable system. The author
emphasizes that slow fashion is not simply
the opposite of fast fashion, but rather a
philosophical ideal that challenges the
current paradigm.

The study explores sustainable fashion

through a social constructionist lens using
qualitative research methods including semi-
structured interviews, semiotics, Twitter
feed, and questionnaires. Four micro-
organizations fulfilling three criteria (UK-
based, local production, and self-proclaimed
sustainable fashion manufacturers) were
selected as cases for study. Consumers were
accessed through these micro-organizations,
and sustainable fashion experts were selected
through judgement and convenience
sampling. The data was collected over a
three-month period in 2013-2014 and
analyzed using Easterby-Smith et al's seven-
step process. The themes and patterns that
emerged from the data were presented to the
participants for validation. The limitations of
the research include small sample size and a
focus on a specific niche market within the
sustainable fashion segment.

The article discusses the principles of

sustainable fashion from a social
constructionist perspective and suggests that
it is subjective in nature. The authors propose

Page | 44

20 Merchandising for Sustainable
Fashion: A Systematic Literature
Review
Author(s):
Bo Wu, XiufenXie , WeichengKe ,
HuiyingBao , ZhilanDuan ,
Zhenyu Jin , Xiaoqun Dai 1 and
Yan Hong
a matrix to help companies indicate their
sustainable fashion priorities, which can give
them a competitive advantage and help
prevent greenwashing by clearly
communicating their approach to sustainable
fashion to stakeholders. The matrix would be
useful for marketers to understand the
various perspectives and to effectively
communicate what sustainable fashion
means for each company.
The limitation of this research is that it only
focuses on a specific niche market of slow
fashion and the sample size is limited to this
market. Therefore, it is recommended that
future research expands the sample size to
include a wider range of the fashion industry
to determine if the findings of this study can
be applied to a larger population. This will
increase the generalizability of the results
and help to determine the universal
applicability of the principles and the matrix
developed in this study.
This paper presents a systematic literature
review of the topic of sustainable
merchandising of apparel. It aims to integrate
the analysis of factors influencing sustainable
merchandising and merchandising strategies
in the clothing industry. The review is based
on journal articles, book chapters, and
conference papers from the Web of Science
(WOS) database and Google Scholar. The
findings show that current apparel
merchandising strategies have limitations
such as low feasibility, ignoring market
driving power, weak consumer awareness,
and lack of government support. The study
provides guidance for the development of
future sustainable merchandising strategies
in order to provide better market space for
sustainable merchandising of apparel.
It examines the factors influencing
sustainable merchandising and the
drawbacks of current merchandising
Page | 45
strategies in the apparel industry. It analyzes
165 articles to provide an overview of
sustainable merchandising from a
merchandising perspective and highlight the
importance of sustainability awareness for
brands. The findings show that brands with
higher sustainability awareness in
merchandising are more likely to bring
higher social and market value to their
brands, and that government intervention
and support can play a crucial role in
promoting sustainable merchandising. The
analysis also highlights the importance of
considering consumers' perceptions of
sustainable merchandising strategies.

This paper discusses the research on

sustainable merchandising of apparel,
including the factors that influence it and the
strategies used by producers, government,
and consumers. It highlights the importance
of government policy support for the
sustainable merchandising of apparel, such as
implementing durability standards and
clothing libraries, and the role of producers in
incorporating sustainable fashion concepts in
their designs, promoting sustainable
consumption, and practicing corporate social
responsibility. The market value of
sustainable merchandising is also discussed,
including the effects of technology and
transparency, as well as the impact of
consumer self-perceptions and segmentation.
However, the paper also points out the
shortcomings of sustainable merchandising
strategies, including a lack of standardization,
weak consumer awareness, and the difficulty
of balancing sustainability with aesthetic,
functional, and financial benefits.

The paper examines the factors that influence

sustainable merchandising of apparel. It was
found that there are differences in the
perceptions of producers, government, and
consumers about sustainable merchandising

Page | 46
 of apparel. The study found that consumers'
purchasing power for sustainable products is
affected by their understanding of
sustainable merchandising. Social and
environmental responsibility are crucial in
sustainable merchandising, and most
producers focus on the raw material side.
However, there is a lack of action on recycling
the product after it is sold. If producers can
educate consumers on sustainable
consumption, they can better explain their
social and environmental responsibilities.
The government needs to provide more
opportunities for learning about sustainable
merchandising policies. The emergence of
"greenwashing" merchandising is a challenge,
and the government should regulate it. The
study has limitations, and future research can
focus on empowering merchandising that
involves consumers and the recycling
management of used clothing. The paper
suggests exploring ways to effectively
integrate research results with business
development.

Components of Fashion Industry:

The Fashion Industry consists of four components/levels:

A) The production of raw materials, principally fibers, textiles, leather, and fur.
B) The production of fashion goods by designers, manufacturers, contractors, and
others.
C) Marketing in the form of advertising and promotion.
D) Wholesale/Retail sales and E-commerce.

These levels consist of many separate but interdependent sectors. These sectors are Textile
Design and Production, Fashion Design and Manufacturing, Fashion Retailing, Marketing
and Merchandising, Fashion Shows, and Media and Marketing. Each sector is devoted to the
goal of satisfying consumer demand that enable designers, manufacturers, retailers and
marketing firms to operate for a profit.

Page | 47
Gap Analysis:

Gaps in Textile Industry

1. Providing awareness and educational programs or vocational training to the

employees and workers and the local suppliers of raw materials.
2. Need to work on the textile engineering departments.
3. Don't get the proper and deep data regarding waste generation.
4. Water Usage is there; Cotton farming uses around 93 billion cubic meters of water
annually.
5. Use of pesticides and insecticides in fields while cropping which decrease the
quality of the land/soil.

Gaps in Apparel Industry

1. Workers don't have enough knowledge about a sustainable product.

2. No counts of Non-visible waste (energy, water, and raw materials) in the factories.
3. Firms should set the standards in terms of sustainable manufacturing practices by
organizations like Sustainability Accounting Standards Boards (SASB)
4. Standards may not be followed and execute because of delivery gap.
5. No presence of 'Green Merchandising'.

Gaps in marketing and retail

1. Business can act responsibly and can increase the age of the Apparel Product before
that product becomes unwearable by providing repair services or helping the
customers or wearer to do the repairs themselves by providing workshops or
events to the regular consumers and can provide short videos as well in order to
help the wearer.
2. Knowledge gap is there, consumers don't have enough knowledge about the
sustainable product; how to use it or reuse or recycle it.
3. Reporting of sustainable practices on the company's website or other platforms.

Page | 48
Small Data Collection of the brand which claims that they are 100%
sustainable brands:

Sr Brand Objective
no.
1 No Nasties Offers a wide range of vegan apparel made from 100% organic
cotton
2 Mix Mitti Offers a wide range of products from backpacks to notebooks. A
portion of its profit is donated to preserve wildlife and natural
habitats
3 Doodlage The brand uses their leftover pieces to create something new and
meaningful
4 InSom An organic and up-cycled clothing label that guarantees 100%
zero-waste production
5 Mio Borsa The first Indian brand to produce vegan leather
6 Nicobar A world of beautiful bamboo dresses, organic cotton, and
tropically inspired eco-friendly homeware
7 Brown boy A sustainable brand that’s not only vegan but organic and
fairtrade
8 Chakori This brand works with rural artisans and craftsmen in their
Ethnic endeavor to create sustainably fashionable garments
9 Upasana Upasana looks at social issues and works these real issues as
projects like Tsunamika – a tsunami-related project providing
livelihood to fisherwomen
10 Atelange Atelange strives to create awareness about conscious slow-living
and providing people with affordable organic products.
11 I AM SO They upcycle and recycle textiles and plastic bottles to make
WASTED apparel and accessories
12 URBAN It is a responsible and circular label, upcycling industrial and
DARZI household waste
13 Tiny Twig Comfy and soft ORGANIC baby clothes
14 Tara &I We believe a garment should last you for life. We also upcycle
fabrics to accessories to achieve minimal wastage.
15 Swateesingh The eponymous label is known for its collection of timeless pieces
that exude sophistication and finesse
16 La Fuori Reduce/Eliminate chemical used, hand paint- convert into digital
print- saves lots of water
17 Soham Dave Uses natural ingredients to dye and cleanse his fabrics, and
washes and dries them under the sun ensuring minimum wastage
of resources
18 11.11/eleven They have created Khadi Denim, 200-count Khadi Cotton, Silk and

Page | 49
 eleven Ahimsa Silk, which they use to create 11.11/eleven eleven
products and are helping promote sustainable fashion in India

After study these brands we found some common gaps which can be in either of the
components of fashion industry.

Common gaps

1. While taking survey company possibly influence workers' responses to more

positive outcome.
2. Delay in communication and information transfer in the whole supply chain.
3. Use of transportation for sending the raw materials, textile or garment from one
place to another.
4. Water and Land usage for planting the raw material (as report says that fashion
industry consumed 79 billion cubic meters of water, to produce only one cotton
shirt it requires approximately 3000L of water). And 8183L of water to grow
enough cotton to produce just one pair of jeans.

Outcome
Fast fashion, characterized by low-cost, trend-focused clothing produced quickly to meet
consumer demand, is a major contributor to environmental degradation and social
problems. The rapid production of cheap clothing leads to the use of harmful chemicals,
water waste, and energy consumption, contributing to pollution, greenhouse gas emissions,
and resource depletion. In addition, the exploitation of labor, particularly in developing
countries, is a common issue in the fast fashion industry, with workers being paid low
wages, forced to work in dangerous conditions, and facing discrimination and violation of
human rights. The impact of fast fashion also extends to gender inequality, as women make
up the majority of low-wage workers in the industry. To address these issues, there is an
urgent need for a shift towards sustainable fashion, where environmental and social
responsibility are prioritized. While some sustainable fashion brands claim to be
completely sustainable, the reality is that there is still a long way to go in achieving truly
sustainable fashion practices. Nevertheless, choosing sustainable fashion options and
supporting responsible brands is a step towards a more sustainable future.

Page | 50
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