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Ebook Beyond Transparency Open Data and The Future of Civic Innovation 1St Edition Brett Goldstein Editor Online PDF All Chapter
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Edited by Brett Goldstein with Lauren Dyson
Except where otherwise noted, this work is licensed under Creative Commons At-
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see http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/3.0/
ISBN-13: 978-0615889085
Table of Contents
Preface IX
By Brett Goldstein
The rise of open data in the public sector has sparked innovation, driv-
And as momentum grows and norms are set, we reach a critical turn-
ing point in the trajectory of the movement. As a community, we need
worked so far and what we still need to learn in order to ensure we are
driving towards meaningful, sustainable outcomes.
IX
PrEfacE
I reached out to Jen with a big idea: let’s write a book on open data. For
two busy professionals, this seemed like a herculean task, but a plan
came together that leveraged the resources of Code For America along
with the insights of key players in the data space. Jen was enthusiastic
and pulled together a team from Code for America to support the proj-
ect. Within a few weeks, we had an initial list of contributors signed on.
Within a few months we had chapter drafts in hand and a working out-
line of the book. A good idea coupled with agile execution—in many
ways, the way this book was created embodies principles of the open
data movement in and of itself.
X
BrETT GOLDSTEIN
And we want lend a voice to many aspects of the open data community.
In this book, you’ll see perspectives from many different participants
that comprise an open data ecosystem: public servants, community or-
ganizers, NGOs, technologists, designers, researchers, journalists, and
citizens. With Beyond Transparency, we’ve brought together a diverse
-
ries of what has been achieved with open data so far, what they’ve
learned along the way, and how we can apply those lessons to realize a
more promising future for America’s cities. As they look back on what’s
been accomplished so far—and what is yet to come—emergent themes
resonate throughout their stories.
As the title of this book suggests, the community is realizing the need
to look beyond the rationale of transparency and instead align open
data efforts with policy objectives, applying it to solve problems that
really matter and make better decisions about how to allocate scarce
resources. We also hear again and again the need for citizen-centered
from data that is open to data that is truly usable and accessible by
the public. Many practitioners cite the need for open data standards—
across various types of civic data—to increase interoperability and
make impact scalable. These are just some of the ideas and lessons that
emerge from the stories gathered here.
Acknowledgments
Thank you to my wife Sarah—as I continue to pile on projects, her tol-
erance is remarkable. Thank you to Lauren Dyson and the rest of Code
for America team who helped bring this vision to fruition. Thanks to
Mayor Rahm Emanuel, whose support laid the foundation that allowed
open data in Chicago to become what it is today. And above all, thank
you to the community of practitioners whose work is featured in this
book. Your ingenuity, hard work, and commitment to innovation illumi-
nate a path forward to a stronger public sphere powered by open data.
XII
PART I:
Opening Government Data
Editor’s Note
-
ing government data through a series of practical case studies.
tells the story of building Chicago’s open data efforts from the ground
Finally, we examine how open data can have big impact in smaller
cities—not just highly resourced urban areas. In Chapter 5, Jonathan
-
ulation 85,000), writes about open data as a long-term investment and
—Abraham Lincoln
I don’t have a lot of faith in the process being logical, so I just hope
that in that mess we somehow get something that works out.
—Malia Grant
—Steve Rousell
4 OPEN DaTa aND OPEN DIScOurSE aT BOSTON PuBLIc SchOOLS
Ultimately, it’s possible that we will leave the city if things don’t
work out the way we want them to.
—Andy Berg
The report used interactive maps, school performance data, and per-
sonal stories to paint a compelling picture of the complexity of the
school assignment process. It also showed that the stakes—in terms of
citizen satisfaction and trust in government—were high.
the school district had shrunk from 100,000 to 57,000 students, only
twenty-eight percent of whom were white (Hoover Institution, 1998).
Mechanics and Boston Public Schools (BPS). Our goal was to make
educational services “simple, beautiful, and easy to use,” to quote my
teammate Scott Silverman.
Our main project was a “trust framework” that would allow developers
to build innovative services on top of student information—a kind of
“app store for students.” By the time the Globe article was published in
March, however, the viability of the project was in doubt: BPS lawyers
were taking a conservative stance toward the possibility of opening
data, so we shifted our focus to other projects that would be less reliant
on open data.
Our research showed that parents had two primary concerns: school
quality and school location. To address those concerns, we included
detailed information on commute distances and times (by foot and by
bus), as well as MCAS scores, teacher-to-student ratios, school hours,
after-school programs, and other performance metrics. We built “walk-
shed maps” to help parents make sense of the complicated walk-zone
policy (which gave a higher precedence to students who lived within
a certain radius of a school), and we added historical acceptance rate
data for each grade level in each school. This latter statistic proved
6 OPEN DaTa aND OPEN DIScOurSE aT BOSTON PuBLIc SchOOLS
same number of people register for school in Boston each year. It won
year and a half later, when Superintendent Carol Johnson told me that
DiscoverBPS had “changed the way [the School Department] relates to
parents.” In thinking about the goals of Code for America—improving
-
cient and participatory—I can’t imagine a much higher form of praise.
Algorithmic Regulation
It is important to note the backdrop for the Superintendent’s remark:
-
cials were presenting proposals to overhaul Boston’s school assignment
policies. These plans had been a topic of discussion for years, but had
The Boston Public Schools have come a long way in the last twenty
years. When I became mayor, many parents considered sending
their children to only a handful of schools. Today, more than 100
of our schools have waiting lists because they are so popular with
JOEL MahONEY 7
parents. Our graduation rate has never been higher, and our drop-
out rate hasn’t been lower in two decades.
But something stands in the way of taking our system to the next
level: a student assignment process that ships our kids to schools
across our city. Pick any street. A dozen children probably attend a
-
dren might not play together. They can’t carpool, or study for the
same tests. We won’t have the schools our kids deserve until we
build school communities that serve them well.
I’m committing tonight that one year from now Boston will have
adopted a radically different student assignment plan—one that
puts a priority on children attending schools closer to their homes.
I am directing Superintendent Johnson to appoint a citywide group
of dedicated individuals. They will help design the plan to get us
there and engage the community on this transition.
This directive laid out the School Department’s agenda for the next
year, including the town hall meetings like the one I attended in Feb-
no matter where in the city the student lived. According to a New York
Times article on the topic by Katharine Seelye (2013), “He started say-
ing things like, ‘What I’m hearing is, parents want close to home but
they really care about quality… I’m working on something to try to
meet those two goals.’ He didn’t have a political agenda.”
Peng proposed his algorithm to the School Department and they in-
cluded it in their proceedings. Parents were receptive to the idea, and
the School Committee eventually voted it into policy in March of 2013
(the algorithm will be put into effect at the end of 2013). The decision
This description would have applied equally well to our work in Boston
as Code for America Fellows.
JOEL MahONEY 9
third parties like Peng Shi to make informed contributions to the pro-
cess. The open data served as a kind of API endpoint into the school
selection debate.
Conclusion
Our work in Boston shows how open data can catalyze change around
Two and a half years later, the School Department is investing in the
continued development of DiscoverBPS, and is demonstrating a deep-
er understanding of the role that open data can play in governance.
References
Boston Globe Staff (2011). Getting In: Inside Boston’s School Assign-
ment Maze [Multimedia series]. The Boston Globe. Retrieved from
http://www.boston.com/news/education/specials/school_chance/index/
www.cityofboston.gov/Images_Documents/State_of_the_City_2012_
tcm3-30137.pdf
The new administration started on May 16, 2011, with open data as
a top priority from day one. The weekend prior, the policy group had
data was listed as an early goal. My mission was to take the bones of
the city’s existing program and make it a cornerstone of the city’s trans-
decide where I wanted to take the vision and direction as the CDO for
the City of Chicago.
point a CDO. This was a clear and immediate statement about the im-
portance of these initiatives to the new administration. Mayor Emanu-
el had decided early on that he wanted a team that used the city’s vast
and rich data resources as a tool and that empiricism would inform
policy. To achieve that goal, he created a senior-level post within his
The City of Chicago did have an existing open data program so I wasn’t
starting from scratch. Prior to the new administration it was managed
by Danielle DuMerer, a project manager in The Department of Inno-
vation and Technology (DoIT). The city had already secured the Soc-
to learn the ins and outs of the program I had inherited. I found it
frustrating that the data platform had already been chosen. While I ap-
-
There were also the upcoming Apps for Metro Chicago contests, plans
for which had been initiated during the prior administration. The John
D. and Catherine T. MacArthur Foundation was funding three the-
matic competitions to encourage businesses and software engineers to
use City of Chicago and Cook County open data to create useful appli-
cations for residents. We greatly appreciated the philanthropic support
of this initiative, but the competition imposed a hard timeline to roll
out our program.
It would have been simple to give it just enough attention to meet the
requirements of the project and not offend the supporting foundation,
allowing us to focus on the ideas coming from the new administration.
However, we ended up seeing this competition as a great way to help
launch the new open data program in Chicago and it helped us get mo-
mentum quickly. (MacArthur has continued to be a fantastic supporter
of these forward-thinking programs.) Kicking off the Apps for Metro
Chicago competition so soon after the start of the new administration
was consistent with the strategy of rapidly expanding the existing open
data program.
First, the city released its crime incidents dataset. Historically, crime
data was hard to obtain in Chicago. While Chicago had been a lead-
er in front-facing technologies, its raw data was not easily accessible.
The Chicago Police Department’s CLEARpath website offered ninety
days of historic incident-level crime data via a mapping interface and
was a great start in terms of information access. However, if third
parties wanted to use the data, they had to do a substantial amount of
scraping.
Chicago endeavored to solve all of these issues in one swift move. The
designed release sought to open all incident-level crime data from Jan-
uary 1, 2001, to the present and update the dataset on a twenty four-
hour cycle. Holding 4.6 million records, Chicago’s published dataset
would be the largest automatically updating set of incident-level crime
data ever released.
The technology behind the release was not complex, but nor was it triv-
ial. Crime data is recorded in the Chicago Police Department’s trans-
actional system and then replicated into their data warehouse. Our
data from one place to another) from an internal utility server to pull
data from the police warehouse and load it into the city’s data portal
via Socrata’s API.
phia Tareen, a reporter with the Associated Press, covered the story.
She wrote a thoughtful piece on the enormity of the release and not-
ed that it was a clear turning point for Chicago (Tareen, 2011). While
written locally, the article was sent out en masse by the AP and, within
a few hours, became an international story. As a result, Chicago’s open
data program became very real and was validated by the broader com-
Our release of street sweeping data during the Apps for Metro Chica-
-
ue to hold true. First, we, as a city, needed to learn to produce data in
machine-readable formats as part of our standard business practices.
Second, a variety of communities demonstrated an enormous appetite
for government data, including civic developers, researchers, and jour-
nalists. We saw the emergence of the civic developer community both
Architecture
with available funding to make this decision. Here are some points
to consider.
If you need a turnkey solution, there are few options are available. Soc-
rata is the dominant platform, and they are good at what they do. They
provide a ready-to-go data portal. For organizations who cringe at the
idea of building their own servers and using open source, this is the
method that is going to work best for you. However, as we will discuss
later, in order to have a sustainable open data platform, you are going
to need to do some rather advanced work.
Beyond the platform comes the source of the data. For programs that
are still in their most basic stage, using a turnkey approach can make
this work incredibly easy. Your data may reside in something as simple
as a spreadsheet. You can upload that information into Socrata directly
and be ready to go in seconds, but it rarely remains that simple once
you get beyond the basics.
Much of the data that you have will come from transactional or ware-
house systems, and if your world is like mine, many of them are quite
data, understand what it means, and load it into the platform. This is
somewhat less turnkey than you might originally think.
You also need to consider how much data you will be moving and how
that will impact your enterprise network, storage, and systems. If you
20 OPEN DaTa IN chIcaGO: GaME ON
are simply dealing with something like a salary list, which is small data,
the issue is trivial. However, what if you want to load something like
GPS coordinates of your assets? In Chicago, that would be approxi-
mately ten million rows a day. That would stress most environments.
Sustainability
Fear
We have released millions of rows of data to date, and so far, it has gone
very well. Every time the internal constituency has been concerned
about a release, we have been able to push it forward and go public
without incident.
It is critical that you develop a strong relationship with your open gov-
ernment community. By fostering this dynamic, you are able to create
a “let’s make it work together” ethos. I explained that if every mistake I
made got blown into a major incident, it would stymie our collaborative
goals. In Chicago, they took this to heart. We created a team effort,
working with Joe Germuska from the Northwestern University Knight
Lab, and formerly of the Chicago Tribune, along with Daniel X. O’Neil
of the Smart Chicago Collaborative. We would regularly convene via
Twitter, email, phone, or at meet-ups. This worked out particularly well
as we strived to conquer large and complicated datasets. These are the
Often, you will see a dynamic between government, the press, and the
open government community that can be less than pleasant because of
this “gotcha” concept I mentioned prior. Government releases some-
thing that has an error in it, and it becomes a “thing.” Maybe there is
substantial press around the error or, even worse, it is viewed as being
deceitful. Within this framework, there are typically only two strate-
data, which is not the optimal track for any of our interests. The second
is to ensure that the data is one hundred percent perfect before it goes
out the door.
If you are posting a spreadsheet with one hundred rows and it is not
terribly wide, you can go through each and every line to ensure that
it’s perfect. You can even scale the exercise to thousands of lines using
a variety of mechanisms. However, what happens when the dataset in-
cludes millions of rows and covers a decade? Even with scripts and au-
22 OPEN DaTa IN chIcaGO: GaME ON
mark. This leaves most people in a quandary. When you want to release
big and important data and you cannot ensure it is one hundred percent
correct, it leads to all sorts of drama. It becomes a no-win situation.
The release and exposure of this executive order served to reinforce the
hard work that had gone into the creation of the program. The ordering
is one that would remain an open question for administrations that are
looking to move forward in the realm of open data. Does it make sense
to issue the executive order or legislation prior to the beginning of the
initiative, or does it make sense to allow for some traction and then
create that framework around it?
I will, however, note the corner case that invalidates my second point,
and this is, of course, a model that I admire: the scrappy do-it-yourself
shop. In this scenario, the program is based on the open source CKAN
model. The entity can build out their open data system on top of that
platform. Seeing that they already have shown the innovation to work
with open source software, it may be the case that they have the ability
to write their own ETLs or leverage some of the great open source
ETL tools that are available on the internet. From there, it would be
a function of what sort of infrastructure could be built out. There is
absolutely no reason a low-cost cloud solution couldn’t be implemented.
24 OPEN DaTa IN chIcaGO: GaME ON
for the City of Chicago. In 2013, he was named the inaugural recip-
ient of the Fellowship in Urban Science at the University of Chica-
go Harris School of Public Policy. Before his appointment as Chi-
References
O’Reilly, Tim. (2010). Government as a Platform. In Open Govern-
ment. Retrieved from http://ofps.oreilly.com/titles/9780596804350/de-
BrETT GOLDSTEIN 25
Introduction
As the open data and open government movement continues, there is
a lot of talk about building local ecosystems for the work. The general
idea is that there has to be a mildly magic combination of data, policy,
developers, capital, and products to enable the kind of growth that is
necessary to take the movement to the next level—where there is a ma-
ture market for open government products that serve real community
needs and lead to sustainable revenue.
(O’Neil, 2006). You can learn a lot about software by its backstory.
In fact, CAPS is really a city program with strong support from the
The culmination of this work is the publication of the CTA’s own API,
a document wherein Harper and I are explicitly called out for helping
them develop it:
Special thanks go to Harper Reed and Dan O’Neil for their sup-
port and encouragement, and to the independent development
community, for showing such great interest in developing appli-
This is the kind of inside/outside game that is also essential to the eco-
system. You have to work with government institutions to make their
This is the moment when the governmental provision of data goes from
incidental to essential. Before that magic moment, it’s important for de-
30 BuILDING a SMarTEr chIcaGO
velopers and citizens to look harder for data published in plain sight.
open data advocates something to point to when they were in their in-
ternal meetings. This support of isolated pockets of policymakers was
one important pattern I saw here in Chicago as well. Building relation-
ships with public, sharable resources, like the “8 Principles,” allowed
for shared trust and shared work. This pattern of template sharing is
something that works.
There were nascent open data plans and products in the Daley admin-
istration, including Chicago Works For You, a project I worked on as a
consultant for the City in 2005. Micah Sifry discussed this project in a
2009 article titled “A See-Through Society”:
try to stand in the way will discover that the internet responds to
information suppression by routing around the problem. Consider
the story of a site you’ve never seen, ChicagoWorksForYou.com. In
June 2005, a team of Web developers working for the City of Chi-
DaNIEL X. O’NEIL 31
Early failures often lead the way to the next policy win—that’s
another pattern.
Hot topics that receive public attention are fecund areas for open data
policy. In Chicago, Tax Increment Financing is a big topic, mainly
amounts of money with very little public information about how the
system works.
The last pattern has perhaps led to the most good: when the chief exec-
utive of a unit of government wants to make a big push. Mayor Michael
Bloomberg of New York won an unusual third term at the same time
-
and our own Mayor Rahm Emanuel embraced open data when he
made a move from the White House to Chicago City Hall.
-
ecutive branch deciding that open data is good policy. They back this
up by empowering people, like former Chicago CIO Brett Goldstein
and CTO John Tolva, to develop and implement that policy.
It’s the unique and aggressive policy of publishing data that has brought
the movement further here in Chicago.
been a center of civic activism and individual public creativity for decades.
It can be traced as far back as Jane Addams, who created the Hull
-
dences for middle-class “settlers” in predominantly immigrant neigh-
borhoods that aimed to reduce inequality in urban areas (Wade, 2004).
She was also a tireless scholar who studied the geographical distribu-
tion of typhoid fever and found that it was the working poor who suf-
fered most from the illness.
Chicago is the place where the drive for common standards, like the
eight-hour workday, was fought (Jentz, n.d.). It was a center for the bat-
tle against mortgage redlining (the practice of denying or raising prices
for mortgages that has played a role in the decay of cities). Activists
used data to understand the predicament and prove their case.
example of success in putting civic data to use for the public good.
Everyone loves CTA bus tracker apps, but few people know that the
installation of the GPS satellite technology making that possible is the
result of a lawsuit brought by a group associated with the Americans
Disabled for Accessible Public Transit (Chicago Transit Authority, n.d.).
Their case, Access Living et al. v. Chicago Transit Authority, required
“installation of audio-visual equipment on buses to announce bus stop
information to riders who have visual impairments or are deaf or hard
of hearing” (Equip for Equality, n.d.). When you hear the loudspeaker
system announce the next street where the bus is stopping, you have de
facto data activists to thank.
This is the place where saxophonists rise from the stage, blare out a
ten-minute solo, and calmly fade back into the band. It’s the place
where slam poetry was conceived—individual poets audaciously grab-
bing the mic for three minutes and getting judged by the crowd. It’s
also where improv comedy—with its focus on ensemble and fast think-
ing—was invented.
These are threads for us in the civic innovation movement here in Chi-
cago. I believe they’re embedded in the work. They form examples for
us to follow—the quiet humility of the worker in the crowd, the devel-
DaNIEL X. O’NEIL 33
-
where. Just remember that every city has unique cultural and techno-
logical histories. This is the essence of an ecosystem, and it’s why they
are local.
It’s one thing to recognize history and another to build a local move-
ment from it. Here are some of the entities that have helped form and
accelerate the work:
2007).
• Open Gov Hack Nights are weekly meetings that have been
critical to accelerating the pace of development (Open Gov
Hack Night, n.d.).
-
ogy and data, growing means capital. In Chicago, a main source of
capital currently comes from philanthropic sources, though there are
some stirrings in the market.
34 BuILDING a SMarTEr chIcaGO
-
cago—was primarily funded by the MacArthur Foundation (O’Brien,
2011). The contest was an important moment in the ecosystem—it was
We have to do this—go beyond anecdote, beyond the cool app that lacks
real traction, into creating business models and datasets that add value.
We need to make products and services that people can’t live without.
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
generous manner in which the Dutch officials treat those who come
to them properly recommended by the higher authorities.
After crossing the Barizan chain, and coming down into this valley
of the Musi, I have noticed that the natives are of a lighter color,
taller, and more gracefully formed than those seen in the vicinity of
Bencoolen. The men always carry a kris or a lance when they go
from one kampong to another. The same laws and customs prevail
here as in the vicinity of Bencoolen, except that the jugur, or price of
a bride, is considerably higher. The anak gadis here also wear many
rings of large silver wire on the forearm, and gold beads on the wrist,
in token of their virginity. The Resident states to me that the native
population does not appear to increase in this region, and that the
high price of the brides is the chief reason. As the price is paid to the
girl’s parents, and not to herself, she has less inducement to conduct
herself in accordance with their wishes; and, to avoid the natural
consequences of their habits, the anak gadis are accustomed to take
very large doses of pepper, which is mixed with salt, in order to be
swallowed more easily. Many are never married, and most of those
who are, bear but two or three children, after they have subjected
themselves to such severe treatment in their youth.
April 27th.—Rode five or six paals up the Musi, and then crossed it
at the foot of a rapid on a “racket,” or raft of bamboo, the usual mode
of ferrying in this island. In the centre of the raft is a kind of platform,
where the passenger sits. One native stands at the bow, and one at
the stern, each having a long bamboo. The racket is then drawn up
close to the foot of the rapids, and a man keeps her head to the
stream, while the other pushes her over. As soon as she leaves the
bank, away she shoots down the current, despite the shouts and
exertions of both. We were carried down so swiftly, that I began to
fear we should come into another rapid, where our frail raft would
have been washed to pieces among the foaming rocks in a moment;
but at last they succeeded in stopping her, and we gained the
opposite bank. Thence my guide took me through a morass, which
was covered with a dense jungle, an admirable place for crocodiles,
and they do not fail to frequent it in large numbers; but the thousands
of leeches formed a worse pest. In one place, about a foot square, in
the path, I think I saw as many as twenty, all stretching and twisting
themselves in every direction in search of prey. They are small,
being about an inch long, and a tenth of an inch in diameter, before
they gorge themselves with the blood of some unfortunate animal
that chances to pass. They tormented me in a most shocking
manner. Every ten or fifteen minutes I had to stop and rid myself of
perfect anklets of them.
I was in search of a coral-stone, which the natives of this region
burn for lime. My attendants, as well as myself, were so tormented
with the leeches, that we could not remain long in that region, but I
saw it was nothing but a raised reef, chiefly composed of
comminuted coral, in which were many large hemispherical
meandrinas. The strata, where they could be distinguished, were
seen to be nearly horizontal. Large blocks of coral are scattered
about, just as on the present reefs, but the jungle was too thick to
travel in far, and, as soon as we had gathered a few shells, we
hurried to the Musi, and rode back seven miles in a heavy, drenching
rain.
All the region we have been travelling in to-day abounds in
rhinoceroses, elephants, and deer. If the leeches attack them as they
did a dog that followed us, they must prove one of the most efficient
means of destroying those large animals. It is at least fortunate for
the elephant and rhinoceros that they are pachyderms. While
passing through the places where the jungle is mostly composed of
bamboos, we saw several large troops of small, slate-colored
monkeys, and, among the taller trees, troops of another species of a
light-yellow color, with long arms and long tails. On the morning that I
left Tanjong Agong, as we passed a tall tree by the roadside, the
natives cautioned me to keep quiet, for it was “full of monkeys,” and,
when we were just under it, they all set up a loud shout, and at once
a whole troop sprang out of its high branches like a flock of birds.
Some came down twenty-five or thirty feet before they struck on the
tops of the small trees beneath them, and yet each would recover,
and go off through the jungle, with the speed of an arrow, in a
moment.
While nearly all animals have a particular area which they frequent
—as the low coast region, the plateaus of these tropical lands, or the
higher parts of the mountains—the rhinoceros lives indifferently
anywhere between the sea-shores and the tops of the highest
peaks. This species has two “horns,” the first being the longer and
more sharply pointed, but the Java species has only one. The
natives here know nothing of the frequent combats between these
animals and elephants, that are so frequently pictured in popular
works on natural history. The Resident has, however, told me of a
combat between two other rivals of these forests that is more
remarkable. When he was controleur at a small post, a short
distance north of this place, a native came to him one morning, and
asked, if he should find a dead tiger and bring its head, whether he
would receive the usual bounty given by the government. The
Resident assured him that he would, and the native then explained
that there had evidently been a battle between two tigers in the
woods, near his kampong, for all had heard their howls and cries,
and they were fighting so long that, he had no doubt, one was left
dead on the spot. A party at once began a hunt for the expected
prize, and soon they found the battle had not been between two
tigers, as they had supposed, but between a tiger and a bear, and
that both were dead. The bear was still hugging the tiger, and the
tiger had reached round, and fastened his teeth in the side of the
bear’s neck. The natives then gathered some rattan, wound it round
them, just as they were, strung them to a long bamboo, and brought
them to the office of the Resident, who gave a full account of this
strange combat in his next official report.
These bears are popularly called “sun” bears, Helarctos
Malayanus, from their habit of basking in the hot sunshine, while
other bears slink away from the full light of day into some shady
place. The Resident at Bencoolen had a young cub that was very
tame. Its fur was short, fine, and glossy. It was entirely black, except
a crescent-shaped spot of white on its breast, which characterizes
the species.
Governor Raffles, while at Bencoolen, also had a tame one, which
was very fond of mangostins, and only lost its good-nature when it
came to the table, and was not treated with champagne. When fully
grown, it is only four and a half feet long. It is herbivorous, and
particularly fond of the young leaves of the cocoa-nut palm, and is
said to destroy many of those valuable trees to gratify its appetite.
April 30th.—At 6 a. m. commenced the last stage of my journey on
horseback. My course now was from Tebing Tingi, on the Musi, in a
southeasterly direction, to Lahat, the head of navigation on the
Limatang. The distance between these two places is about forty
paals, considerably farther than it would be from Tebing Tingi down
the Musi to the head of navigation on that river; but I prefer to take
this route, in order to learn something of the localities of coal on the
Limatang and its branches, and of the unexplored Pasuma country.
We crossed the Musi on a raft, and at once the road took us into a
forest, which continued with little interruption all the way to Bunga
Mas, a distance of twenty-four paals. Most of this forest rises out of a
dense undergrowth, in which the creeping stems and prickly leaves
of rattans were seen. These are various species of Calamus, a
genus of palms that has small, reed-like, trailing stems, which are in
strange contrast to the erect and rigid trunks of the cocoa-nut, the
areca, the palmetto, and other palms. It seems paradoxical to call
this a palm, and the high, rigid bamboo a species of grass. When
they are growing, the stem is sheathed in the bases of so many
leaves that it is half an inch in diameter. When these are stripped off,
a smooth, reed-like stem of a straw-color is found within, which
becomes yellow as it dries. The first half-mile of the road we
travelled to-day was completely ploughed up by elephants which
passed along two days ago during a heavy rain. The piles of their
excrements were so numerous that it seems they use it as a stall.
Every few moments we came upon their tracks. In one place they
had completely brushed away the bridge over a small stream, where
they went down to ford it; for, though they always try to avail
themselves of the cleared road when they travel to and fro among
these forests, they are too sagacious to trust themselves on the frail
bridges.
In the afternoon, the small boughs which they had lately broken off
became more numerous as we advanced, and their leaves were of a
livelier green. We were evidently near a herd, for leaves wilt in a
short time under this tropical sun. Soon after, we came into a thicker
part of the forest, where many tall trees threw out high, overarching
branches, which effectually shielded us from the scorching sun,
while the dry leaves they had shed quite covered the road.
Several natives had joined us, for they always travel in company
through fear of the tigers. While we were passing through the dark
wood, suddenly a heavy crashing began in the thick jungle about
twenty paces from where I was riding. A native, who was walking
beside my horse with my rifle capped and cocked, handed it to me in
an instant, but the jungle was so thick that it was impossible to see
any thing, and I did not propose to fire until I could see the forehead
of my game. All set up a loud, prolonged yell, and the beast slowly
retreated, and allowed us to proceed unmolested. The natives are
not afraid of whole herds of elephants, but they dislike to come near
a single one. The larger and stronger males sometimes drive off all
their weaker rivals, which are apt to wreak their vengeance on any
one they chance to meet. Beyond this was a more open country, and
in the road were scattered many small trees that had been torn up by
a herd, apparently this very morning.
Although they are so abundant here in Sumatra, there are none
found in Java. They occur in large numbers on the Malay Peninsula,
and there is good reason to suppose they exist in the wild state in
the northern parts of Borneo. This is regarded as distinct from the
Asiatic and African species, and has been named Elephas
Sumatrensis.
Three paals before we came to Bunga Mas, a heavy rain set in
and continued until we reached that place. Our road crossed a
number of streams that had their sources on the flanks of the
mountains on our right, and in a short time their torrents were so
swollen that my horse could scarcely ford them. Bunga Mas is a
dusun, or village, on a cliff by a small river which flows toward the
north. Near the village is a stockade fort, where we arrived at half-
past six. The captain gave me comfortable quarters, and I was truly
thankful to escape the storm and the tigers without, and to rest after
more than twelve hours in the saddle.
This evening the captain has shown me the skin of a large tiger,
which, a short time since, killed three natives in four nights at this
place. The village is surrounded by a stockade to keep out these
ravenous beasts, and the gate is guarded at night by a native armed
with a musket. One evening this tiger stole up behind the guard,
sprang upon him, and, as a native said who chanced to see it, killed
him instantly with a blow of her paw on the back of his neck. She
then caught him up and ran away with him. The next day the body
was found partly eaten, and was buried very deeply to keep it out of
her reach. The second evening she seized and carried off a native
who was bathing in the stream at the foot of the cliff. The captain
now found he must try to destroy her, and therefore loaded a musket
with a very heavy charge of powder and two bullets. The gun was
then lashed firmly to a tree, and a large piece of fresh meat was
fastened to the muzzle, so that when she attempted to take it away
she would discharge the piece, and receive both bullets. The next
morning they found a piece of her tongue on the ground near the
muzzle of the gun, and the same trap was set again; but the next
night she came back and took away a second man on guard at the
gate of the dusun. The captain now started with a corporal and eight
men, determined to hunt her down. They tracked her to a place filled
with tall grass, and closing round that, slowly advanced, until two or
three of them heard a growl, when they all fired and killed her
instantly. It proved to be a female, and she had evidently been so
daring for the purpose of procuring food for her young.
May 1st.—The rain continued through the night, and only cleared
away at daylight. In two hours I started, though I found myself ill from
such continued exertion and exposure to a burning sun and
drenching rains, and, more than all, from drinking so many different
kinds of water in a single day. I was accompanied by a soldier who
was one of the eight who went out to hunt the tiger that killed so
many natives in such a short time. He repeated to me all the details
of the whole matter, and assured me that a piece of the brute’s
tongue was found on the ground just as the captain said, and that,
when they had secured her, they found that a part of her tongue was
gone.
We had not travelled more than half a mile before we came upon
the tracks of two tigers, a large one and a small one, probably a
female and her young, which had passed along the road in the same
way we were going. The perfect impressions left by their feet
showed they had walked along that road since the rain had ceased,
and therefore not more than two hours before us, and possibly not
more than ten minutes. We expected to see them at almost every
turn in the road, and we all kept together and proceeded with the
greatest caution till the sun was high and it was again scorching hot.
At such times these dangerous beasts always retreat into the cool
jungle.
For eight paals from Bunga Mas the road was more hilly than it
was yesterday. In many places the sides of the little valley between
the ridges were so steep that steps were made in the slippery clay
for the natives, who always travel on foot. Seven paals out, we had a
fine view of the Pasuma country. It is a plateau which spreads out to
the southeast and east from the feet of the great Dempo, the highest
and most magnificent mountain in all this region. The lower part of
this volcano appeared in all its details, but thick clouds unfortunately
concealed its summit. Considerable quantities of opaque gases are
said to have poured out of its crater, but it does not appear to have
undergone any great eruption since the Dutch established
themselves in this region. It is the most southern and eastern of the
many active volcanoes on this island. Like the Mérapi in the Padang
plateau, the Dempo does not rise in the Barizan chain nor in one
parallel to it, but in a transverse range. Here there is no high chain
parallel to the Barizan, as there is at Kopaiyong, where the Musi
takes its rise, and also north of Mount Ulu Musi continuously through
the Korinchi country all the way to the Batta Lands. Another and a
longer transverse elevation appears in the chain which forms the
boundary between this residency of Palembang and that of
Lampong, and which is the water-shed, extending in a northeasterly
direction from Lake Ranau to the Java Sea. The height of Mount
Dempo has been variously estimated at from ten thousand to twelve
thousand feet, but I judge that it is not higher than the Mérapi, and
that its summit therefore is not more than nine thousand five hundred
feet above the level of the sea.
The Pasuma plateau is undoubtedly the most densely-peopled
area in this part of the island. Its soil is described to me, by those
who have seen it, as exceedingly fertile, and quite like that of the
Musi valley at Kopaiyong, but the natives of that country were
extremely poor, while the Pasumas raise an abundance of rice and
keep many fowls. During the past few years they have raised
potatoes and many sorts of European vegetables, which they sold to
the Dutch before the war began. The cause of the present difficulty
was a demand made by the Dutch Government that the Pasuma
chiefs should acknowledge its supremacy, which they have all
refused to do. The villages or fortified places of the Pasumas are
located on the tops of hills, and they fight with so much
determination that they have already repulsed the Dutch once from
one of their forts with a very considerable loss. No one, however,
entertains a doubt of the final result of this campaign, for their
fortifications are poor defences against the mortars and other
ordnance of the Dutch.
Soon after the tracks of the two tigers disappeared, we came to a
kind of rude stockade fort, where a guard of native militia are
stationed. The paling, however, is more for a protection against the
tigers than the neighboring Pasumas. A number of the guard told me
that they hear the tigers howl here every night, and that frequently
they come up on the hill and walk round the paling, looking for a
chance to enter; and I have no doubt their assertions were entirely
true, for when we had come to the foot of the hill the whole road was
covered with tracks. The natives, who, from long experience, have
remarkable skill in tracing these beasts, said that three different ones
had been there since the rain ceased; but one who has not been
accustomed to examine such tracks would have judged that half a
dozen tigers had passed that way. There are but a few native houses
here at a distance from the villages in the ladangs, and those are all
perched on posts twelve or fifteen feet high, and reached by a ladder
or notched stick, in order that those dwelling in them may be safer
from the tigers.
At noon we came down into a fertile valley surrounded with
mountains in the distance, and at 2 p. m. arrived at Lahat, a pretty
native village on the banks of the Limatang. The controleur stationed
here received me politely, and engaged a boat to take me down the
Limatang to Palembang. The Limatang takes its rise up in the
Pasuma country, and Lahat, being at the head of navigation on this
river, is an important point. A strong fort has been built here, and is
constantly garrisoned with one or two companies of soldiers. One
night while I was there, there was a general alarm that a strong body
of Pasumas had been discovered reconnoitring the village, and
immediately every possible preparation was made to receive them.
The cause of the alarm proved to be, that one of the Javanese
soldiers stationed outside the fort stated that he saw two natives
skulking in the shrubbery near him, and that he heard them
consulting whether it was best to attack him, because, as was true,
his gun was not loaded. The mode of attack that the Pasumas adopt
is to send forward a few of their braves to set fire to a village, while
the main body remains near by to make attack as soon as the
confusion caused by the fire begins. This is undoubtedly the safest
and most effectual mode of attacking a kampong, as the houses of
the natives are mostly of bamboo, and if there is a fresh breeze and
one or two huts can be fired to windward, the whole village will soon
be in a blaze. Though this seems to us a dastardly mode of warfare,
the Pasumas are justly famed for their high sense of honor, their
bitterest enemy being safe when he comes and intrusts himself
entirely to their protection. When the Dutch troops arrived here, an
official, who had frequently been up into their country, volunteered to
visit the various kampongs and try to induce them to submit, and in
every place he was well received and all his wants cared for, though
none of the chiefs would, for a moment, entertain his proposals.
My journey on horseback was finished. The distance by the route
taken from Bencoolen is about one hundred and twenty paals, or
one hundred and twelve miles, but I had travelled considerably
farther to particular localities that were off the direct route. I had
chanced to make the journey at just the right time of year. The road
is good enough for padatis and to transport light artillery. For most of
the time a tall, rank grass fills the whole road except a narrow
footpath, but the government obliges the natives living near this
highway to cut off the grass and repair the bridges once a year, and I
chanced to begin my journey just as most of this work was finished.
The bridges are generally made of bamboo, and can therefore be
used for only a short time after they are repaired. Indeed, in many
places, they are frequently swept away altogether, and are not rebuilt
until the next year. From what I have already recorded, those who
glory in hunting dangerous game may conclude that they cannot do
better than to visit this part of Sumatra. To reach it they should come
from Singapore to Muntok on the island of Banca, and thence over to
Palembang, where the Resident of all this region resides, and obtain
from him letters to his sub-officers in this vicinity. From Palembang
they should come up the Musi and Limatang to Lahat, when they will
find themselves in a most magnificent and healthy country, and one
literally abounding in game.
SINGAPORE.
CHAPTER XVII.
PALEMBANG, BANCA, AND SINGAPORE.
May 6th.—Very early this morning started with the controleur down
the Limatang in his barge, with twenty men. During last night the
river rose here four or five feet, and the current is now unusually
strong. From Muara Inem, to where it empties into the Musi, it is very
crooked, constantly bending to the right in nearly equal curves, the
current, of course, being strongest in the middle of each bend. This
constant curving gives an endless variety to its scenery. The water,
being high, enabled us to see the cleared places that occurred from
time to time on the bank; though generally only a thick wood or
dense jungle appeared on either hand, yet I never for a moment was
weary of watching the graceful bending of the reeds and tall
bamboos, and of the varied grouping of these with large trees. In two
places the river makes such long bends, that artificial canals have
been made across the tongues of land thus formed. One of these
cuts, which was less than a hundred yards long, saved us going
round half a mile by the river. Every four or five miles we came to a
large kampong, and exchanged our boatmen for new ones, so that
all day long we swiftly glided down the smooth stream, one relay of
men not getting weary before they were relieved by another, and the
strong current also helping us onward. The kampongs here are free
from the filth seen in those farther up in the interior. The houses are
all placed on posts five or six feet high, for sometimes the whole
country is completely flooded. Many of them are built of well-planed
boards, and have a roofing of tiles. When the sun had become low,
we came to the large kampong of Baruaiyu. At all these villages
there is a raft with a house upon it, where the boatmen waited for us.
Fastening our boat to one of these, we took up our quarters in the
rajah’s house. Like those built by our Puritan forefathers, it had one
long roof and one short one, but it was so low that a tall man could
scarcely stand up in it anywhere. The floor, instead of being level,
rose in four broad steps, and the whole building formed but one large
apartment with two small rooms at the rear end.
May 7th.—A severe toothache and the bites and buzzing of
thousands of mosquitoes made me glad to see the dawn once more,
and again be floating down the river. Before we came to the chief
village of each district, where we were to exchange boatmen, we
always met the boat of the rajah of that place, and were greeted with
shouts and a great din from tifas and gongs.
The rajahs in this region are divided into three grades, and their
ranks are shown by the small hemispherical caps they wear. Those
of the highest rank have theirs completely covered with figures
wrought with gold thread; those of the second rank have theirs
mostly covered with such ornaments; and those of the third rank
wear only a gold band. They all carry krises of the common
serpentine form. Those that have the wavy lines alike on each side
of the blade are regarded as the most valuable. The handles are
usually made of whale’s-teeth, and very nicely carved; and the
scabbards are frequently overlaid with gold. Those that have been
used by famous chiefs are valued at all sorts of enormous prices, but
are never sold. They also frequently wear a belt covered with large
diamond-shaped plates of silver, on which are inscribed verses of
the Koran, for the natives of this region are probably the most
zealous and most rigid Mohammedans in the archipelago.
The staple article of food here is rice. They also raise much cotton
from seed imported from our Southern States. Having gathered it
from the ripe bolls, they take out the seeds by running it between two
wooden or iron cylinders, which are made to revolve by a treadle,
and are so near together, that the seeds, which are saved for the
next season, cannot pass through. The fibres are very short,
compared to the average product raised in our country, but it serves
a good purpose here, where they make it into a coarse thread, which
they weave by hand into a cloth for kabayas and chilanas.
The marriage rites and laws here are nearly the same as those I
have already described at Taba Pananjong, except that the price of a
bride here is just that of a buffalo, or about eighty guilders (thirty-two
dollars). Unless a young man has a buffalo or other possessions of
equal value, therefore, he cannot purchase a wife. Near Baruaiyu
there is a peculiar people known as the Rembang people, who live in
four or five villages at some distance from the river. They are very
willing to learn to read and write their own language, but will not
allow themselves to be taught Dutch or Malay. Last night the river
rose still higher, and now it has overflowed its banks, which appear
much lower than they are between Lamat and Muara Inem. During
the day we have had several showers. At 5 p. m. we arrived at Sungi
Rotan, the last village on the Lamatang before its confluence with
the Musi. It is a small and poor village, the land here being generally
too low for rice, and the cocoa-nut palms yielding but little compared
to what they do higher up. Farther down toward Palembang they
yield still less. This is the limit of the controleur’s district in this
direction. It extends but a short distance up the Inem and up the
Limatang above Muara Inem, and yet it contains no less that ninety-
one thousand souls.
The controleur came here to settle a difficulty between the people
of this and a neighboring village. The other party had occupied a
portion of the rice-lands belonging to this people, and the trouble had
risen to such a pitch, that the government had to interfere, to prevent
them from beginning a war. I said to the rajah that, beyond Lamat, I
had passed for miles through a beautiful country, and that it seemed
to me he would do well to migrate there; but he evidently disliked
such a suggestion, and the controleur asked me not to urge him to
adopt my view, for fear that he might think the government designed
sending him there, and because he and all his people would rather
die than go to live in any distant region.
May 8th.—At 6½ a. m. started for Palembang. My own boat, which
I sent on directly from Muara Inem, arrived here yesterday a few
hours before us, having been three days in coming down the same
distance that we have made in two. We soon stopped at the request
of one of the boatmen to examine a small bamboo box which he had
set in a neighboring bayou for crawfish. Several were found in it.
Their eyes seemed to emit flashes of light, and appeared to be
spherical jewels of a light-scarlet hue. I found them palatable when
roasted. The boatmen also found some Ampullariæ, which they said
they were accustomed to eat, and I found them palatable also We
soon floated out of the narrow Limatang into the wide and sluggish
Musi, and changed our course from north to east. There are great
quantities of rattan along the lower part of the Limatang and the
Musi, and the natives gather only a small fraction of what they might
if they were not so indolent. Last night, at Sungi Rotan, the
mosquitoes proved a worse pest than the night before, and they
have continued to annoy us all day.
In the afternoon I had a slight attack of fever, almost the only one I
have had since I was ill immediately after my arrival in Batavia, a few
days more than a year ago. After three large doses of quinine I fell
asleep, my boatmen saying that we should not reach Palembang till
morning, which entirely agreed with my own wishes, as I did not care
to call during the evening on the assistant Resident, whom I had
already notified of my coming. When the last dose had disappeared I
soon became oblivious to all real things, and was only troubled with
the torturing images seen in a fever-dream. While these hideous
forms were still before my mind’s eye, I was suddenly aroused by a
loud noise, and, while yet half awake, was dazzled by a bright light
on the water, and, on looking out, saw that we were near a large
house. On the brilliantly-lighted portico above us were festoons of
flowers, and, while I was yet gazing in wonder, inspiriting music
sprang up and couple after couple whirled by in the mazy waltz. I put
my hand up to my head to assure myself that I was not the victim of
some hallucination, and my boatmen, apparently perceiving my state
of mind, informed me that we had arrived at Palembang, and that a
sister of one of the officials had lately been married, and her brother
was celebrating the happy occasion by giving a grand “feast,” or, as
we should say, a ball.
The bright light, the enlivening music, and the constant hum of
happy voices, instantly banished all possibility of my entertaining the
thought of remaining for the night in my dark, narrow cabin; and at
once, with no other light whatever than that reflected on the water
from the bright ballroom, I prepared myself to meet the Resident in
full dress. He was greatly surprised to see me at such a late hour,
but received me in a most cordial manner, and at once commenced
introducing me to the host and hostess, the bride and bridegroom,
and all the assembled guests. The chills and burning fever, from
which I had been suffering, vanished, and in a moment I found
myself transferred from a real purgatory into a perfect paradise.
WOMEN OF PALEMBANG.
PALEMBANG—HIGH WATER.
Palembang occupies both banks of the Musi for four or five miles,
but there are only three or four rows of houses on each bank. Many
of these houses were built on bamboo rafts, and, when the tide is
high, the city seems to be built on a plain, but at low water it appears
to be built in a valley. The tide here usually rises and falls nine or ten
feet, but in spring fourteen feet. This is the greatest rise and fall that I
have seen in the archipelago. It is said that in the river Rakan, which
empties into the Strait of Malacca, at spring tides the water comes in
with a bore and rises thirty feet. The principal part of Palembang is
built on the left bank. There are a large and well-constructed fort,
and the houses of the Resident, assistant Resident, and other
officials. The Resident and the colonel commanding the fort are now
in the Pasuma country. On the left bank is the Chinese quarter, and
very fine imitations of the more common tropical fruits are made
there in lacquer-ware by those people. Below the fort, on the right
bank, is the large market, where we saw a magnificent display of
krises, and enormous quantities of fruit. The name Palembang, or,
more correctly, Palimbangan, is of Javanese origin, and signifies “the
place where the draining off was done.” The “draining off” is the
same phrase as that used to describe water running out of the open-
work baskets, in which gold is washed, and the word Palembang is
regarded generally as equivalent to “gold-washing” in our language.
The Javanese origin of the first settlers in this region is farther shown
by the title of the native officials and the names of various localities
in the vicinity. The natives have a tradition that Palembang was
founded by the Javanese government of Majapahit, but the
Portuguese state that it was founded two hundred and fifty years
before their arrival, or about a. d. 1250.
Back of the Resident’s house is a mosque with pilasters and a
dome, and near by a minaret, about fifty feet high, with a winding
external staircase. It is by far the finest piece of native architecture
that I have seen in these islands, and is said to be decidedly superior
to any of the old temples in Java. Its history appears to be lost, but I
judge it was built not long after the arrival of the Portuguese. The
architects were probably not natives, but the Arabs, who have not
only traded with this people, but succeeded in converting them to
Mohammedanism. Palembang Lama, or Old Palembang, is situated
on the left bank, a mile or two below the fort. Landing with the
natives under a waringin-tree, I followed a narrow path over the low
land for a mile, and came to the grave of a native queen. All possible
virtues are ascribed to her by the natives, and many were on their
way to this shrine to make vows and repeat their Mohammedan
formulas, or were already returning homeward. Those who were
going stopped at a little village by the way to purchase bunches of a
kind of balm which they placed in the tomb. After meeting with many
worshippers, I was quite surprised to find the grave was only
protected by an old wooden building. The coffin was a rectangular
piece of wood, about a foot and a half wide, and five feet long, in
which was inserted at the head and foot a small square post, about
two feet high. Near the grave of the queen were those of her nearest
relatives. This is regarded as the oldest grave that can be identified
in this vicinity. It is supposed to have the power to shield its
worshippers from sickness and all kinds of misfortune. The
Mohammedanism of this people, therefore, even when it is purest, is
largely mingled with their previous superstitions.