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ÍV»
 t i c^* K o v n * /

IVI A V »

BY

President
University of Pennsylvania

Philadelphia
UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA PRESS
© ig6z by the Trustees of the University of Pennsylvania
Published in Great Britain, India, and Pakistan
by the Oxford University Press
London, Bombay, and Karachi

Library of Congress Catalog Card Number: 61-18481

Printed in the United States of America

 TO

T^rrvr, J^tetty, (/4iollie, AND ^e^e

W H O LET US GO
 ILLUSTRATIONS

The following -pictures appear as a group after page 64:

T h e Qoran Gate
Eram Gardens
T h e tomb of Saadi
Site of Pahlavi University from Nemazee Hospital
Park Saadi Hotel
Persian fruits
Old Caravanserai
Rug making by the tribes
Frieze of Mede and Persian warriors
A tribal tent
Fallen Griffins
Persepolis staircase
T h e entrance to Charharbagh School
Author and his companions
Mosque of the Sheikh Lutfullah
Maidan-e-Shah
Shah Mosque
Pigeon Tower
Village in Darband Valley
Charharbagh Mosque
A Caspian village
Dr. Torab Mehra and the author
View in a Caspian village
An Elburz valley
Karadj Dam
Ramsar Hotel
Rug washing
Rug drying
Beggar
Rey bazaar and Mosque entrance
 Ko /

IV» i ^ r ^ n
In the Beginning

"Would you like to go to Iran?" said my secretary with that

sibylline smile which from the time of Eve has characterized
the female emissaries of adventure. T h e letter with which
she capped the stack of correspondence awaiting my return
from a winter holiday was from the International Cooperation
Administration of our State Department. It inquired whether
I would be free for an interval of a month or two in the not-
too-distant future to participate in a brief survey to determine
the feasibility of establishing a university of the American
type in the ancient city of Shiraz lying within the south-
central massif of Iran.
Here was an intriguing vista indeed! It conjured visions of
romantic "gardens bright with sinuous rills" garnished with
the pleasure-domes of a city in the eponymous province of
Fars from which Persia sprang twenty-five hundred years ago.
Shiraz is near to Pasargadae, the home of Cyrus the Achae-
menid, and near to the palaces at Persepolis of his dynastic
successors Darius and Xerxes. It was the home of the poets
Saadi and Hafiz, the fabled city of roses, wines, and caravans!
To Oscar Wilde, Persia was

The almond groves of Samarcand,

Bokhara, where red lilies blow,
And Oxus, by whose yellow sand
The grave white-turbaned merchants go:
11
 And on from thence to Ispahan,
The gilded garden of the sun,
Whence the long dusty caravan
Brings cedar and vermilion.

To the average present-day American, Iran is still Persia

and the land of the lamb, the rug, and the pussy cat. To me its
rugged arid expanse, which I had seen only from the air, was
also the stage upon which much significant history had been
enacted and the site of exploration by many expeditions from
the University of Pennsylvania Museum which were yielding
fragmentary and tantalizing glimpses of those prehistoric peoples
who were the precursors of the empires of the ancient world.
Persia was the home of the Aryan people—from whom the
present name Iran derives—and through it wound the old
silk road to China. Across it through all of history have flowed
invading peoples from both east and west, leaving remnants
of themselves to be in some cases partially absorbed or in others
isolated and encysted in mountain fastnesses. It has been a
tribal land from the ancient days of the Medes, Persians,
Parthians, Hyrcanians, Bactrians and Sogdians to modern times
in which there are such ethnic groups as the Turkmen,
Mazanderani, and Gilani with their own dialects in the Cas-
pian basin, the Kurds and Lurs of the north and east, the
Bakhtiari and Qashqa'i of the central Zagros mountains, and
the Afghans, and Baluchi of the east. It is an historic land
of exotic peoples, customs, and traditions; and an invitation
to visit it was most enticing.

12
The Opportunity and the Auspices

Though "the golden road to Samarkand" beckoned, it was

not just a matter of rubbing the lamp and summoning up the
magic carpet. One who is thoroughly enmeshed in the life
of a university has a calendar of commitments for many
months ahead; and in my case the family's summer plans had
begun to focus on the Hebrides, which are a long way from
the Caspian Sea and the Persian Gulf. It would be difficult
to schedule such an extended absence; competent and available
associates would have to be persuaded of the importance of
the undertaking; and a wife would have to be reconciled to
seeing the Hebrides recede to a more distant summer. T h e
press of more urgent matters delayed any immediate decision
and reply to the letter of invitation, but the attractive prospect
of a summer in Iran was never far from my thoughts in suc-
ceeding days. As I considered the nature of the request from
the International Cooperation Administration ( I . C . A . ) in the
light of a record of contractual relations with universities which
had not been too happy in the past, I was encouraged to hope
that this instance might be a precursor of a better pattern to
come.
A committee of the American Council on Education, of
which I was a member, had been studying the contractual work
of our universities abroad, and had been much concerned
with the fact that these universities had not felt that the
mechanisms presented to them had been such as to enable
them really to exercise their best judgment and to perform

*3
the tasks they undertook in such a way as to leave them with
a sense of having accomplished their work to the best of their
abilities. The daily crises in the Departments of Defense and
State tend to shift the emphasis to immediate expediency, and
the thoughtful planning for the effective role of universities
in our foreign relationships is as yet in its infancy. Too fre-
quently universities had been thought of as pools of talent
from which experts could be dipped and poured upon trouble
spots in foreign lands with little realization of the supporting
academic structure essential to their success. Consequendy,
floundering, frustration, and futility had too frequendy marked
technical and educational enterprises in aid of other nations.
The present request of the University of Pennsylvania by
the I.C.A. represented, however, a great advance in the matur-
ity of relationships between government and universities and
hence deserved an affirmative response. Here an important
objective had been recognized by the I.C.A. which was ap-
propriate for university involvement, and its achievement had
not as yet been compromised by any ill-advised commitments.
The pattern to be followed had not been set by any irrelevant
considerations. Members of an academic community were not
to be plucked out^f the context necessary to the exercise of
their competence and asked to serve limited ends under alien
direction and unpromising circumstances. Rather, a highly
important and appropriate task had been formulated in a
way to challenge academic judgment, and the flattery implicit
in the desire of another nation to emulate the American educa-
tional system was most humanly appealing.
The rendering of aid to other countries by the International
Cooperation Administration through the medium of American
universities—involving as it does relationships between large,
highly specialized groups with widely diverse philosophies, re-
sponsibilities, objectives, methods, and personnel—is fraught
with the greatest difficulties. By far the most valuable item in
14
the catalogue of wares composing our foreign aid program, how-
ever, is our knowledge, and closely second to it is the pattern
of our educational institutions from which that knowledge
derives and upon which our economy and our democracy rest.
These surpass in significance the armament and other hardware
which are sterile in the sense that they can be given once but
cannot reproduce themselves. Knowledge and the education
leading to it stimulate to new life and effort and beget 'self-
starting societies that can then make or acquire the material
things they need.
However, the difficulties that would lie in the way of trans-
planting an educational system were all too obvious. American
universities are highly diverse institutions in practice, and it
is no easy matter to delineate their common characteristics and
to translate these in such terms as to elicit their acceptance
by a people unfamiliar with them. The transference of practices
and customs is necessarily a slow and painstaking business:
the nascent idea is a very fragile commodity which must find
the most sympathetic reception if it is to be viable in a new
environment. Yet for our undertaking to be successful in
competition with indigenous universities, buttressed by tradition
and supported by some thirty years of established custom, the
loyalty of many people would have to be won for the novel
and the unfamiliar.
One essential element of success was indeed present in
that the initiative had come from the Government of Iran,
from the Shah, and from his Court. The Shah and his advisers
had long realized that the thousands of students from Iran
who attend universities in Europe and the United States find
a greater congeniality of life and an expanse of challenging op-
portunity in the countries where they have gone to study.
Hence these students understandably show some reluctance to
return to their native land, where conditions are less attractive,
where opportunities for the exercise of their talents are more
restricted, and where a career that is ultimately rewarding is
harder for them to win. In consequence, Iran's most valuable
national asset—its ablest young men and women—has tended
to be exported, and the leaders of the future have remained
abroad to develop other nations rather than their own.
One solution to this problem would be to deny travel
subsidies and exit visas, but this would be a shortsighted and
dictatorial one. Such recourse would indeed have appealed to
the ancient Oriental despotism which held undisputed sway
in that country until the present generation, but today , an
enlightened and democratic ruler is endeavoring to leap many
centuries of poverty and ignorance in order to assimilate our
modern civilization and achieve a distinguished position among
the growing nations of the Middle Hast and of the world.
The nations of Africa and Asia into which these continents are
fracturing realize that though curtains may be made of iron
and bamboo, they cannot be made of ignorance. They also
realize that education—and in particular higher education for
intelligent leadership—is an essential prerequisite for the
achievement of a mature nationality and a position of signifi-
cant influence in the affairs of the world.
In consequence, the wiser and more forward-looking solution
to Iran's problem obviously would be to provide educational
opportunities within Iran itself which could match those of
the West and which could attract, retain, and serve the rising
generation of Iranian students to the benefit of the country
of their birth. The short space of a generation from the
revolutionary strong man Reza Shah—whose force of character
laid the foundation for national independence between world
wars—had seen the establishment of a government under his
democratic son, Mohammed Reza, persuaded to implement en-
lightened policies. If the need of the nation for higher educa-
tion of distinguished quality had now been recognized as of
16
 first priority, the future should hold great promise and a help-
ing hand would encounter a firm grasp in return.
However, from whence were the appropriately prepared Ira-
nians who would staff this new university to come? T o be
successful, it could not be an American university: it must
be an Iranian one, adapting and transforming the practices of
one society to those of another. The ideas could be drawn
from American experience, but their application had to be in
Iranian hands. As the subtle immunological reactions of one
body reject the grafting of tissue from another, so any nucleus
of Americans could not establish a viable Iranian university;
rather, it would have to be ultimately moulded and nurtured
by Iranians. Where would the Trustees, the Faculty and the
Administration be found? Did they exist in Iran, or could
expatriates be induced to return and cast their academic lot
with an untried venture? T h e most optimistic answer was
that it would be a slow process and dependent upon a nucleus
of devoted and zealous individuals with a vision of a better
future for their country*.
Additionally, what resources would nourish and support
such an enterprise? Iran has a petroleum economy faced
by strong technological competition which finds itself in an
era of weakening international markets and with much of its
income committed to urgent immediate national needs. Mush-
rooming urbanization is dislocating semi-feudal traditions and
primitive methods, and absentee landlords retard agricultural
development. Nomadic tribesmen roam the hinterland, and
commerce is largely supported by handicraft. Could such a
country afford a modern university? T h e answer, of course, is
that it could not afford in the larger sense to be without one
if it were to improve its condition. First things should be put
first, and the necessary resources should be found.
And finally, Iran is a devout Moslem country, and its people
are largely of the Shi'ite sect which rejects the first three
*7
Caliphs and deems Ali, Muhammad's son-in-law, as the
Prophet's first rightful successor. Ignorance is orthodox, edu-
cation is feared, and obscurantism is rife. As President Ayub
Kahn of Pakistan lias said: "All over the world Moslem com-
munities are the most backward and uneducated." He has
also said: "The kingdoms and the crowns which Moslems have
lost in the course of history are far less important than the
kingdom of the free and searching mind which they have
lost through intellectual stagnation."
But the dawning recognition of these truths by a leading
Moslem could itself be the harbinger of a more enlightened era.
T h e question as to whether the veil of ignorance could be lifted
from the people of Iran thus answers itself, for it evidently
has leaders in its government with the vision of Ayub Kahn,
and indeed the very proposal we had received to assist Iran
was an important step toward retrieving "the kingdom of the
free and searching mind."

18
Homework in Preparation

The letter from Willfred Mauck, Chief of the Near East-

South Asia Division of the Office of Educational Services of
I.C.A. had fallen upon fallow ground; and he kindly followed
it up with a visit amplifying the background of the State De-
partment's interest, which sprang as much from a concern
with medical schools and public health as from a general
interest in education. He told us of The Iran Foundation,
which provides a strong cultural link through a modern hospital
in Shiraz, of the interest of a number of the major American
foundations in the renaissance of Iran, and of other I.C.A.
contractors there who were concerned with such projects as the
education of teachers and doctors, and the improvement of
public administration and agriculture.
As the winter wore on, I sounded out a few colleagues who
combined skills that appeared to be appropriate with the
requisite missionary zeal and was delighted to find that Dr.
Jonathan E. Rhoads, Chairman of the Department of Surgery,
who had served some years as Provost of the University and
traveled widely for the Friends Service Committee, evinced
an interest. Also John C. Hetherston, Secretary of the
University, skilled in the letter of the academic law and
expert in reducing to lucid prose the fleeting consensus oc-
casionally to be discerned in turgid committee deliberations,
rose to the promise of academic adventure. Philip E. Jacob,
Professor of Political Science, familiar with the Near East
since Athens College days as well as expert in faculty organi-
19
zation and sensitive to the balance of University governance,
found the opportunity intriguing. With such colleagues, the
undertaking to explore, survey, and formulate an advisory
report could not fail, and the project was in hand—with the
formal details left to the University office concerned with con-
tracts and grants.
A visit to Washington on American Council on Education
business yielded useful counsel on the project's background,
for it turned out that we were indebted to Arthur S. Adams,
President of the Council, and Richard Humphrey, Director
of the Council's Committee on Institutional Projects Abroad,
for suggesting that I.C.A. present us with the opportunity.
In my naivete I thought a visit to the great pulsing heart
of the International Cooperation Administration, just a few
blocks away from the Council's offices, would be helpful in
understanding the intricacies of this arm of "State." I could
not have been more wrong; but I emerged heartened by the
welcome I received and in awe of what ordinary well-
intentioned human beings can seemingly accomplish in spite
of a system apparently diabolically contrived to thwart them.
T h e tenuous link with the State Department consisted of a
Director whose ill health had not permitted him to function.
T h e Functional Deputy Directors and the Deputy for Oper-
ations presided over separate zigzag arrays of geographical area
desks which in turn had some rough parallel in the State
.Department itself. A complicated series of approvals was neces-
sary to clear the path for any project through this maze, but
I had glimpsed only that small fraction of the bureau that
floated above the Washington surface. Initiation, budgetary
control, and implementation were the responsibilities of the
United States Operations Mission (U.S.O.M.) of I.C.A. in
the country in question, and the communication between these
two groups was by cryptic cable. Over this witches' Sabbath
brooded the saturnine figure of the ambassador to the country
20
concerned, whose frown could freeze each gyrating participant
in his tracks at any instant.
Retrospect brings a more tempered view, and indeed one
wonders how under the given circumstances a better system
could be devised. The association of the diplomatic and oper-
ating functions decreed by national policy, albeit on dubious
grounds, imposes the basic restrictions on subsequent perform-
ance. Only an organization with the resilience, toughness, and
insensitivity of a truck tire could dissipate the pressures of
Congress, local governments, contractors, the General Account-
ing Office, and the perversity of human nature in internal
friction and frustration and still make any headway toward
its ultimate objectives. These organizational limitations, how-
ever, emphasize the importance to be attached to the responsi-
bility of university contractors for exercising their own
discrimination and judgment in the roles they undertake. Our
reaction to these fouled systems of communication was less
fond when months later on the eve of a hectic departure with
close schedules and hardly won reservations at the height
of the Atlantic tourist season we were informed that an es-
sential paper approving local clearance did not appear to be
in the file and all must come to a grinding halt. Our grim
determination to go now and argue the horrendous financial
consequences later was justified on being informed an hour
or so before departure that it was all a laughable misunder-
standing between a couple of characters down among the
desks who couldn't interpret one another's dispatches.
But these were comic interludes in the more serious business
of trying to repair our abysmal ignorance of things Iranian
in the few months at our disposal, and of endeavoring to formu-
late a skeleton framework of university organization that might
be adapted to Iranian circumstances and provide a report ac-
ceptable to the Government of Iran. W e sought out knowl-
edgeable people through Willfred Mauck and our own
21
connections, cast our net widely for visitors, and consulted,
relevant literature that we gathered from all quarters.
Ervand Kogbetliantz of T h e Rockefeller Institute had taught
mathematics at the University of Tehran in the early days of
its establishment by the French some thirty years ago. He
spoke to me of the interest of Hussein Ala, senior statesman
and presendy Minister of Court, in higher education in Iran—
a man from whom we were to leam much and whose shrewd
wisdom and clear vision were to guide our course of action
during the coming summer. T h e pattern of a university remote
from social pressure composed of quite autonomous faculties
has served France well, but in the transplanting beyond the
national tradition it has been distorted by a stagnating system
of administrative tenure, diluted by part-time participation on
the part of both faculty and students, misdirected toward the
letter of the diploma rather than the spirit of learning, and
handicapped by a location in the capital city where students
constitute a ready-made instrument for political demonstration
and propaganda.
Donald N . Wilber, a member of T h e Iran Foundation, his-
torian, archaeologist, consultant to the State Department, and
author of ban, Past and Present, shared his long experience in
Iran with me one evening in Princeton and later conferred
with us in Philadelphia. H e was enthusiastic at the prospect of
an American-type university in Iran and urged careful planning,
patience, and understanding of the Iranian temperament and
the limitations of the Government. He felt that the time was
ripe and that there was a conjunction of favorable circum-
stances for the success of our venture if we could formulate
a simple plan that could be adopted and put into execution.
An early visitor to our campus in this undertaking was
Dr. Clifford A. Pease, Jr., Willfred Mauck's opposite number
in Public Health of I.C.A., whose interest centered in medical
education and the Medical School of Shiraz. This school ap-
22
pared to be a central component in any planning and had the
great advantage of an able leader in its Dean, Dr. Zabih
Ghorban, also Chancellor of the present provincial university
in Shiraz. Dr. Pease emphasized I.C.A.'s interest in the public
health aspect of our visit; indeed, within the mysterious recesses
of that organization our enterprise was tagged and budgeted
as a public health contract! H e was closely followed by Dr.
Issa Sadiq, former Minister of Education, Senator, and Profes-
sor at the University of Tehran. H e told us much of the tribu-
lations of his university, the political and social pressures to
which it was subject, the inadequate preparation of its students,
and the paucity of its facilities. He kindly offered his guidance
and assistance when we were in Tehran.
Dean Henry Reining of the University of Southern Cali-
fornia came to Philadelphia and told us of his experience in
staffing and conducting a Business Institute at the University
of Tehran, the difficulties arising from the University organiza-
tion, and the lack of a clear idea of a civil service with public
responsibility. He had found the concept of a fiduciary rela-
tionship to be lacking in Iran, and indeed that it had become
necessarv to resort to the concepts of the family or the tribe
as the only recognized social units in Iran in order to approach
the idea of community welfare. Another visitor was R. Howard
Porter of the University of Colorado, with a background in
agricultural education in China, South America, and the Near
East, who was to be resident in Shiraz under Ford Founda-
tion auspices to establish an agricultural educational program
which he was anxious to have under university auspices. Also,
Dr. Slocum and Dr. Jacobson of the State University of New
York dropped in to tell us of their project to recruit a staff
for the Medical School of Shiraz and of their great interest
in the sound establishment of a university structure that would
ensure permanent significance to their contribution.
F. Champion W a r d and Harvey Hall of T h e Ford Founda-
23
tion told us of their interest in Iran and of their first ventures
there in vocational and agricultural education. They told us
that "American Education" meant practical education to Iran-
ians and that many of the present educational evils came from
a weak central administration and the rigid autonomy of
individual faculties. An educational community of able young
men with a common focus and an emphasis on research
could bring a fresh and stimulating atmosphere. Robert H .
Dyson, Jr. of our own University Museum and his archaeolog-
ical colleagues who had been excavating in Hasanlu, south of
Lake Urmia in Iran, gave us invaluable background on the
tribes and landlords of the countryside and on the interest
in archaeology and the sense of historical continuity with an
imperial past that plays such an important role in learned
circles.
Finally came our long-awaited introduction to one of whom
we had heard from almost all our visitors. Dr. A. Torab Mehra.
Director of the Shiraz Medical Center and the Nemazee Hos-
pital, had come to N e w York for a meeting of T h e Iran Founda-
tion, and we met the man who was to be our host and guide
for the summer ahead, our interpreter of all things Persian,
and a charming and persuasive protagonist for better educa-
tional opportunities for his countrymen. W e were captivated
by his winning diffidence, convinced by his obvious sincerity,
and greatly encouraged for the success of our venture by the
shrewd realism that underlay a smiling confidence. He told
us of the people who would be our support and of those who
had yet to be convinced. He described the fabled Nemazee
Hospital, an unique eleemosynary instance in Iran and an
oasis of Western medicine in Asia, and explained how it could
become the clinical facility for an able medical faculty. He
told us of the difficulties that would be encountered in the
establishment of a new university but also how they could
be overcome, and he shared with us his vision of a campus to
24
arise in the foothills outside Shiraz where his young country-
men could receive an education equal to that available any-
where in the world. Here was a prophet indeed to lead a
modern pilgrimage!

25
The Pattern to be Followed

The fascination of our visitors and other informants on

Iran and its educational programs almost beguiled us to the
neglect of the essential matter of getting our report well outlined
before our departure. It was clear that we would have little time
for the general formulation of educational philosophy while be-
mused by exotic experiences and confused by discordant ob-
servations. In consequence, we set about the construction of a
framework within which we hoped to be able to adapt our
concept of the American pattern of higher education to what-
ever circumstances we encountered.
This presented some difficulty inasmuch as in the United
States diversity is the rule among colleges and universities.
Some have been established for two or three hundred years,
while others have been chartered within the past decade. Some
are large aggregations of constituent schools enrolling many
thousands of students, whereas others are small and highly
specialized in undergraduate or graduate areas with relatively
highly selected and homogeneous student bodies. Some are
urban, others are rural; some have particular religious, social,
or cultural affiliations, and others are quite without these at-
tributes. Some are almost completely financed by states or
municipalities; some receive comparable support for their pro-
grams from both public and private sources; others are com-
pletely independent of government in any way except for the
subvention represented by certain tax exemption privileges.
In spite of the diversity of pattern among American univer-
26
sities, the common feature of a board of regents, overseers,
or trustees provides a distinguishing feature of coupling be-
tween the academic community and society at large. This
device has unique advantages, since it provides the institution
with a degree of insulation which has proven congenial to
the exercise of freedom of thought, inquiry, and expression by
its members without the somewhat hazardous implication that
the judgment of this community alone is competent to pass
upon the actual implementation of social policy.
Freedom to explore and speculate and to study and in-
vestigate is an essential prerequisite if a university is to per-
form its unique function as the growing intellectual edge of
a society. It is important that this function be performed with
a high degree of objectivity and integrity if it is to be signifi-
cant. This objective is best achieved if there is some degree
of disjunction between the university community and the pres-
sures and practicalities of its social environment. N e w facts,
new ideas, new methods, and new information are the structural
elements of the social fabric of the future, and it is the
university's function to ascertain and refine these elements and
to advise and assist other segments of society appropriately in
their ultimate incorporation and employment in the structure
of industry, government, and other social institutions.
As one of the principal participants in the governance of
the university community, the lay board not only ensures the
measure of independence from extraneous pressures upon the
academic community necessary to preserve its essential freedom,
but at the same time it also provides a mechanism through
which the academic community can be kept aware of its con-
nections with the larger national society and sensitively re-
ponsive to the requirements of that society. As has been pointed
out by Samuel P. Capen, former Chancellor of the University
of Buffalo: "The American plan of institutional management
is without doubt largely responsible for the prodigious and
27
unparalleled spread of higher education in the United States,
for the reason that it directs attention to the hundreds of
influential citizens who serve as board members to the advan-
tage of a wide diffusion of educational opportunities. These
citizens in turn help to create the public sentiment that finds
expression in gifts and appropriations for educational purposes;
gifts and appropriations wholly unmatched in any other coun-
try. In particular, the concentration of executive authority in-
herent in the American plan facilitates the expansion of
individual institutions and their quick adaptation to the
changing demands of the society they serve."
In a measure the trustees contribute to what Iranians regard
as the practicality of American higher education. The academic
community is not completely self-governed by its faculties or
isolated from social pressures in an ivory tower. An external
consultative function is commonly served by faculty indi-
viduals and groups under protective limitations, particularly in
the fields of agriculture, law, health and social work, where large
programs of service and clinical activities form an essential part
of the educational experience. On the other hand, the trustees
are a part of the organization that sets the undergraduate
body apart from society and avoids even in urban colleges and
universities the use of students as the raw material of which
mobs are made. Tokyo, Havana, Istanbul, Buenos Aires, and
one capital after another appears as the political stage upon
which university students pour like mobs of "extras" by the
manipulation of partisan propagandists. The American under-
graduate customarily relieves his tensions with athletic excesses
in the fall or occasional vernal eruptions of joie de vivre but
rarely permits himself to be so misled as to be a cat's-paw in
serious political violence.
But the concept of the restraint of authority of a governing
body and the niceties of the fiduciary relationship we found
to be foreign to Iranian experience. Even in the United States
28
after long experience the performance of boards of trustees
in their relation to faculties, to whom must be entrusted the
discharge of the educational function, is somewhat uneven.
Thinking that point would be lent to our report by some ap-
posite quotations from the Persian classics, we asked Mark
Dresden, our expert adviser in this area, to give us some sug-
gestions; and he reluctantly reported that altruism was not
readily illustrated in that literature. If an Iranian possesses prop-
erty rights, there is generally no nonsense about exercising them
in the interest of anyone else, and we realized that here was
indeed a point we would have to set forth with particular
clarity. The legislative charter would have to be drawn without
ambiguity and the statutes governing trustee-faculty relation-
ships very carefully spelled out if the dynamic balances, both
within the university structure and between the university
and society, were to be achieved in Iran through a properly
functioning board of trustees.
A second feature of American universities which distinguishes
them from the continental European pattern is the degree of
unity and cohesiveness that is achieved by the best examples
among them as full-time resident academic communities con-
cerned as single entities with the propagation, integration,
application, and extension of knowledge. The teaching func-
tion—or, more desirably, the incitement to learning—is most
nearly associated in the mind of the public with the mission
of a university. Indeed, in the undergraduate area it represents
the major emphasis in the relationship between the more junior
and more senior members of the university, namely, the
students and the faculty. However, this is an activity which
the university shares in large measure with schools and colleges,
and if it were to stop there it would have no uniqueness as
an institution. In addition it brings together, under the catalysis
of intimate intellectual companionship, the widely diverse
disciplines of the physical and natural sciences, the studies of
29
human social relationships, and the humanistic areas of litera-
ture, languages, history and the arts; and out of these asso-
ciations evolve biochemistry, health physics, operations
analysis, materials science, computer linguistics, information
storage and retrieval, area studies, and the innumerable other
interdisciplinary groupings. In this capacity it serves as a fertile
matrix within which the utility of knowledge that has been
gained and is available is greatly increased.
This intimacy of participation and mutuality of interest
is promoted by the absence of artificial barriers between the
traditional patterns of thinking within a university which in-
dividual faculty autonomies tend to perpetuate. T h e application
of knowledge in the interest of perfecting useful techniques,
employing these for the training of practitioners, and intro-
ducing them as the growing edge of technical progress in the
professions is another unique university function commonly
associated with the professional disciplines of law, medicine,
social work, etc. This is again facilitated by the unity of the
academic community in the placing of the entire momentum
of the institution behind its professional schools and depends
very essentially upon the intimate contact between the academic
community and the needs of society at large that is provided
by the lay board of trustees.
Finally, the research and exploratory function—whereby
new insights are gained, new facts established, and new
interpretations contribute to the clarity of the intellectual grasp
that is achieved—is the activity which in retrospect has most
importantly justified the university as a uniquely essential
component of an increasingly technical and integrated society.
T h e utilitarianism of primitive societies and their structural
components limit the fruitful speculative purview of their
members. But today our universities have enlarged the reservoir
of knowledge to be integrated to such an extent that few new
observations of any sort find themselves sterile or inapplicable
to the general welfare of mankind.

3°
 T h i s is, of course, not to set up the American pattern as
one of perfection, for it is vulnerable to many criticisms and
at best a human expedient devised to meet the exigencies
encountered in our particular circumstances. American univer-
sities, like other social organizations, suffer occasionally from
delusions of perfection or overindulgence in the heady wine
of self-satisfaction. In their competitive interrelationships the
emphasis sometimes tends to get a bit misplaced on relatively
irrelevant matters such as athletics, social status, antiquity of
tradition, or encyclopedic extent of professional coverage; but
every system has its abuses which, if recognized, can be to
some extent avoided. However, the twin pillars of the trustee
type of governance and the unity of the academic community
constitute the major architectural features which distinguish
the American type of university and which have in large
measure determined the nature of the educational contri-
bution that it has made.
It seemed clear to us that in recognition of these features
we should frame our report in terms of the national legisla-
tion best conceived to facilitate the establishment of an edu-
cational foundation governed by a board of trustees; the statutes
which would foster a dynamic interrelation of authority and
responsibility between this board and a university faculty; and
the rules and regulations that would establish a unified aca-
demic community, democratically structured, and with a wide
horizon of concern for the functions of the institution. T h e s e
subdivisions would be knit together by appropriate illustrative
and expository material and the whole cast in terms that would
later appear to be appropriate as we learned something more
of the particular circumstances, traditions, aspirations, and
limitations of the country and society we were to visit.

31
East to the Lion and Sun

The take-off of our small flock to far-distant Iran was a bit

ragged since Philip Jacob and I couldn't leave until June
24; but John Hetherston and Jonathan Rhoads, being free a
week earlier and time being short, set off ahead of us on
Pan Am's magic carpet and put in some useful days in recon-
naissance and the establishment of our base in Tehran.
Philip and I joined forces at Idlewild in time for an 8:00
P.M. take-off on Pan Am's Flight # 2 ; and though the great
aluminum birds were clustered under the enormous cantilever
roof with short, carpeted gangways from the second story
out to the bright doorways at their beaks, we were told there
would be a three-hour delay in our departure and that we
would dine at "The Golden Door" as Pan Am's guests instead
of in flight. Midnight saw us aboard the sumptuous Boeing
707 in soft seats with soft music and the pretty soft prospect of
being plied with good things to eat and drink by houris in
powder-blue uniforms until reaching the North London Airport
next morning. The flight was memorable only gastronomically,
and we came down through the overcast to a foggy city and
a bustling airport full of confused, irritated, and frustrated
people, characteristic of thick weather and delayed flights.
However, with confirmed reservations one relaxes in the arms
of the airlines and docilely does the bidding of the loud-
speakers.
After the loss of a bit more time, we were off through lovely
clouds to Frankfurt, where we were inspected in the airport, and
32
Munich, where we were inspected aboard; then high over the
snowy Alps, down along the Jugoslav coast, across Macedonia,
and into Istanbul after dark. Good company, the beautiful
panoramas from 35,000 feet, and the telescoping mealtimes of
eastward flights made it a full day, capped by a dinner with
champagne and caviar before our last stop at Ankara. W e were
understandably a bit drowsv from here on and barely lifted an
eyelid for the snowy landmark of Ararat near the Turkish-
Iranian border. I had last seen Ararat from the north at midday
in a Soviet plane from Tbilisi to Baku; but here we were
closer to it, and the moon lent the rugged country great en-
chantment.
From here on we were over Iran, which has the geographic
outline of a great snail crawling up the Persian Gulf bearing
the Caspian Sea upon its back. Its eye is Lake Urmia in the
northwest corner where the province of Azerbaijan and its
capital city, Tabriz, lie in the Armenian knot of mountains.
T o the east along the upper shell of the snail lies the high
Elburz chain of mountains separating the lush tropical Caspian
littoral from the high Iranian plateau to the south. In the
southern foothills of these mountains near the 19,000 foot
peak of Mount Demavand is the national capital, Tehran,
which was to be our destination; and off in the far northeast
province of Khorasan lies the holy city of Mashhad. T h e
lower Zagros chain of mountains forming the body of the
snail sweeps off to the southeast along the Persian Gulf. In
these mountains lie the cities of Isfahan and Shiraz which we
were to visit in due course. T h e great arid wedge of desert
between these mountain ranges extends on to the eastern
ridges that mark the back of the snail's shell and the borders
of Afghanistan and Pakistan.
Though we had picked up a little time, we were still five
hours late when we reached Tehran at 3 : 3 0 A.M.; and we were
distressed at our friends' inconvenience when we saw the
33
welcoming party of our companions, Jonathan Rhoads and
John Hetherston, who had preceded us, and two U.S.O.M.
hosts—Stewart Hamblen, Chief of the Education Division, and
Dr. Samuel Kirkwood, Chief of the Public Health Division.
Their welcome was a warm one, and an Embassy aide ex-
pedited the paper work of passport and currency controls and
customs. Soon we were piled with our luggage in the little
Embassy bus and left the lights of the Mehrabad Airport
behind us as we bowled along the Karadj road toward the
city of Tehran. Philip and I were more bleary-eyed than our
welcoming party and took in but dimly their account of the
week's activities in Tehran and their excursion to Chalus in
the north and then west along the Caspian coast to Ramsar
and Rasht. By the time we reached the Semiramis Hotel, we
had agreed to postpone details until the morrow.
I've never been able to learn why the name of the Assyrian
queen Semiramis is such a favorite with hotel keepers from
Cairo to the East, for she seems to have had little reputation
as a hostess in the ninth century, B.C. But she was to be our
comfortable home base for nearly two months in Tehran.
W e enjoyed the Western air conditioning and automatic
elevator, were introduced in the lobby to the modern Persian
taste for uncomfortable formal Victorian furniture and garish
marquetry of mirrors on the walls, and appreciated the friendly
response of the staff to our halting efforts to communicate in
their language our needs for food, drink, ice, botde openers,
and laundry. Later, our rooms were to serve as display divans
for bales of rugs, fleeces and printed cloths, and trunks of
jewelry, copper trays, and trinkets brought by bearded rascals
from the bazaars. But at 5:00 A.M. on June 26 our interest
was rather in the soft pillows and well-sprung mattresses
with which we were each supplied.
A few hours in bed sufficed, however; and by eight o'clock
I was enjoying the view from my fourth-floor balcony on
35
a bright, sunny morning. T o the north the rugged brown
Elburz Mountains formed the characteristic Tehran skyline,
but the nearer foothills showed occasional green valleys and
plots of cultivation. T h e light summer haze made details diffi-
cult to descry, but something could be seen of the northern
suburb of Shemiran, about a thousand feet higher than the
central city—and, as we were to learn, some ten to twenty de-
grees cooler. This is the site of the royal palace, many
embassies, and the walled gardens and homes of those upon
whom Allah has smiled.
Nearly below me, the Avenue Roosevelt coming down from
the north intersected the Boulevard Takhte-Jamshid—meaning
the throne of the mythical ruler Jamshid—and the Persian
designation of Persepolis. On the other side of this broad
artery lies the United States Embassy with its pleasant gardens,
and the buff and beige buildings clustered in neighboring
blocks house the nerve centers of the civil and military activities
that engage the several thousand Americans who administer
the U . S . aid programs. Immediately beneath my balcony was
the walled baclc garden of a Persian residence with tiled terrace
and pool: a stage set with scenery—shifted almost hourly
according to the time of day—of chairs, tables, divans, beds,
rugs, and toys upon which were enacted fascinating domestic
scenes during the ensuing weeks.
An electric power failure—not uncommon in Tehran as
we were to learn—complicated the shaving process in the
small, dark bathroom; but at that I was up before my
companions and, taking my camera, strolled around a few
neighboring blocks. T h e straight broad avenues, like the
Takhte-Jamshid, form traffic grids ruthlessly driven by Reza
Shah through old Iranian cities twenty or thirty years ago.
Their edges are generally ragged with hummocky, unpaved
pedestrian walkways, but occasionally with concrete sidewalks,
and more frequently than not with open gutter drains, lo-
36
callv known as "jubes." T h e old days in which these served
as the general water supply as well are gone, and Tehran
now has a modern water works and distribution system. But
the common roadside channels for irrigation and drainage are
a not unwelcome feature of the generally arid central Asian
city. Between the broad avenues of Tehran are narrow lanes
and passages, some straight and some winding, but usually
innocent of any provision for separating the pedestrian from
occasional flocks of sheep or goats or, more importantly, from
the lethal charioteer at the wheel of his dusty truck or dented
taxi.
Tehran traffic must be experienced to be believed. And
what an experience it is! Its nerve-shattering impact is not to
be matched even in the fabled arenas of Cairo, Beirut, or
Tokyo. A taxi ride up the boulevards Khayyam and Firdowsi
with one of these Persian Jehus is comparable only to an
early Mack Sennett film. Dodging in and out among men,
women, children, beasts, carts, behemoth trucks, and competing
taxis on both sides of the road, the drivers of these ramshackle
mechanisms dart through instantaneous traffic openings with
no slackening of speed. T h e passenger is a quivering jelly
as he thankfully pays the modest tariff that puts an end to
this harrowing experience. W e kept a record of our frequent
trips up the Shemiran Road, and two vehicle-disabling accidents
per mile was par for the course. Beneath my Semiramis window
the traffic sounds would suddenly rise to a crescendo of scream-
ing brakes, followed by the crunching crash of fenders and
the shrill vituperation of the participants. T h e traffic officer,
long inured to such experiences, would carefully note down
the relevant details, assign blame, and dispose of the wreckage,
both human and mechanical. T h e safety of being in a truck
took precedence over the satisfaction of being in the right.
T h e errant and hapless cyclist who unsuccessfully disputed a

37
crossing with a motorist might be scraped off the pavement and
husded direcdy into the paddy wagon.
Back from my stroll, I breakfasted with my three daundess
colleagues, and Jonathan and John told Philip and me of their
adventures prior to our arriyal,-an account which we had been
too sleepy to take in during the small hours of the morning.
Their trip to the Caspian and west along its shore to Ramsar
was so interesting that I give it in Jonathan's words:

Though the city of Tehran contains about 10 per cent of the

population of Iran, it is in no way representative of the hinter-
land. Sensing this, John and I decided to devote two days before
your arrival to a trip through the mountain districts and the Caspian
littoral. Preparations for the trip were attempted through a rather
reluctant aide in Dr. Kirkwood's office who kept returning to
the desirability of going by train and to the perils of automotive
transportation through the mountains. As it turned out, he didn't
exaggerate the latter. Finally, however, the transportation by auto-
mobile was arranged, and we were advised that we would be
called for at six o'clock in the morning. Probably we should not
have been surprised when no vehicle appeared at the appointed
hour, and after considerable waiting we found that the trans-
portation office had reneged.
Torab Mehra, who had very generously consented to make the
trip with us, took the view that the land of Iran was a new frontier
which ought to challenge the early American in us, and he thought
one should be resourceful in finding a way around any obstacle.
On this occasion, his solution was a simple one. Why not hire a
car and go on our own? W e readily assented to this plan, and in
somewhat less than fifteen minutes a modern American Dodge
—complete with driver—was at our disposal. We piled in, and
John and I were immediately taken with the talismans the young
driver had on display. Torab told us they were commonplace in
taxicabs and other vehicles for hire in Iran and were to invoke
the favor of Allah on the fortunes of the vehicle and its occupants.
It was less reassuring to learn that often Allah was not responsive
38
to the prayer and accidents did occur. T h i s was simply referred
to as "Kismet."
Certainly, our driver's approach to the problem of road hazards
was fatalistic enough. W e bored or rather drilled through traffic
on the broad, macadamized road which runs forty kilometers
west to Karadj. Here we paused for a fairly lengthy visit at the
School of Agriculture which, administratively, is a unit of the
University of Tehran. It has received substantial suppoft under
the Point Four Program, and it had an impressive set of new
buildings, including a small hospital for the care of students and
staff members.
Dean Walker, of Utah, who was completing a two-year term
of service there, took us over the campus and out to the experi-
mental farm. Here, a large area was irrigated from deep wells
and it abundantly demonstrated how fertile much of the Iranian
land is when it is watered adequately. Dean Walker's efforts to
have the students work with their hands had elicited the interest-
ing fact that some of them were not interested in agriculture but
were rather intent on acquiring a degree from the University.
They had no intention of going into agricultural careers, but the
course at this school was their best opportunity for the pursuit
of "higher education." This is, undoubtedly, an index of the very
limited opportunities available to young Iranians. It also appeared
that most persons who graduated from the School of Agriculture
went on to hold governmental or industrial posts, and it was rare
for such individuals actually to go back to the land as farmers.
Leaving Karadj, our driver turned north, and the road climbed
up and up through higher mountain valleys. W e paused for
lunch at an ancient inn, near which was resting a caravan
of camels. W e passed the Karadj Dam—-a miniature Hoover,Dam,
but still a very large structure—which will impound the vast
reservoirs of melting snows in the spring and thereby supply water
for the irrigation of a large area of the valley which harbors
Karadj and Tehran.
T h e route which we followed was one which had been turned
into a road by the late Reza Shah. By his great authority, one
hundred thousand men were said to have been brought to the
39
task, and the two-lane highway was carved out of the mountains
largely by pick and shovel. In retrospect, it may have been for-
tunate that our driver's carefree practice of swinging around sharp
mountain curves in the wrong lane cost him a fender in an en-
counter with a five-ton truck on the gentler grades up from
Karadj. For between this experience and considerable verbal
chastening by Torab, our young athlete was persuaded to apply
the brakes occasionally. The scenery on the descent was unbeliev-
ably grand. The road penetrates the final ridge through a long
vehicular tunnel and then winds down a series of ravines.
The part of Iran to the north of the Elburz Mountains is com-
pletely different from the central plain. It is green and well-
watered. Rice grows in the lowlands and tea plants farther to
the west. Beyond this, in the slopes of the mountains, are olive
groves where the water is less abundant, and high on the shoulders
of the mountains toward the western pass, where the rainfall is
again quite scanty, there is seen the sparse vegetation of the dry
farms which are often several thousand feet above the villages
where the people who tend them live.
Of special interest in this part of our journey were the little
country villages which had been sprayed with DDT in an anti-
malarial campaign inaugurated during the period when Torab
served in the Ministry of Health. The treatment, including its
date, was recorded on every little shanty in red letters and, as we
were to leam later from the Director of the Institute of Malariology
in Tehran, this program has had a profound effect in reducing the
incidence of malaria. In the rice country we constantly came upon
little clumps of men around a country store who were simply
sitting on benches or fence rails chatting. The women were like-
wise aggregated in clumps, but they were in the rice fields bent
over at right angles, working away at the farming.
W e reached the Caspian Sea at Chalus and from there turned
west to Ramsar, where Reza Shah had brought into being one
of the most luxurious of hotels. Its formal gardens extend nearly
a mile to the shore of the Caspian. Thanks to the influence of
Torab we were accommodated there with Winthrop Rockefeller
and the Shah's brother as fellow guests. Following a swim in the
40
waters of the Caspian the following morning, we journeyed west
toward Rasht, then turned south, climbing to a western pass
through the Elburz and thence east again through Karadj to
Tehran.
The southwest Caspian shore, which is the country of the
Gilani tribe, had been Torab's home as a boy. He recalled many
vivid incidents of life there with his father who was a government
official and told us that then it had been necessary to organize an
armed escort for every journey to another city. W e learned about
the country people and about the changes in the country districts
which have come during Torab's recollection. H e constantly
emphasized the ability of the country to forge ahead during each
period of political stability. These intermittent spurts of progress
had generally been interrupted by political upheaval—more often
than not brought about by outside pressures.
Two brief incidents of the trip seem worth recording for the
light they throw on Persian character. First, our youthful driver
came upon a blind beggar, whereupon he immediately stopped
the car, got out, and gave alms to the blind man. Our driver then
took some berries which we had purchased and, placing them in
the top of our water container, proceeded to wash the berries in
a neighboring stream—thus destroying the sterility w e had been
guarding—and then presented the berries to the blind beggar.
Just as we were leaving, we observed a few pebbles rolling rapidly
down the steep hillside, so that we looked up to see three non-
blind beggars hurrying down to help the blind man enjoy his
good fortune. According to the Qoran a beggar blesses the giver
bv providing him the opportunity to make the gift. The Qoran
does not refer specifically to the fate of those who swoop down
on blind men, but of avarice it reads: "That which they hoard
will be their collar on the Day of Resurrection."
The second incident occurred when we saw a group of nomadic
tribesmen who looked like a band of gypsies along the edge of
the road. They seemed upset, so that Torab got out of the car
to talk with them. John and I were anxious to take pictures of
the group because one of its number, an old man, had his hair
dved with henna, which we were told is thought to bring rejuvena-
4»
tion. It seemed that one of their children had been injured by a
passing car and had been taken to a hospital. They were, there-
fore, not in the friendliest of moods, but Torab rapidly won their
confidence and stood with them while we took pictures of the
group. This was only one more example of the capacity of this
unusual man to sense a situation and to identify himself with
Iranian people from all walks of life.
T h e two-day trek pointed up even more sharply than we had
anticipated the contrasts in Iranian life—between the well-to-do
and the peasant, between the educated and the ignorant, the city
dwellers and the dwellers in huts and tents. W e came to see much
more of these contrasts as the summer wore on but in spite of
them, there prevails a deep sense of belonging to Iran and a deep
longing for stability.

W i t h our appetites whetted for the weeks ahead w e began

our serious planning. T h e local appointments were shaping
up well, but transportation to other cities was presenting a
problem since IranAir had been proscribed by the Embassy
as unsafe. T h e chief problem appeared to be in connection
with some financial reorganization that was taking place, in the
course of which there was some danger that the fragile structure
might collapse and injure the investors. Though we were not
travelling on orders and hence had some freedom to maneuver,
deference to the official view that the aircraft were probably
unsafe as well appeared to be in order. It was thought that
the Air Attache's D C - 3 might be available to take us to Shiraz,
and this proved to be the case.
T h a t morning we set out, courtesy of an I.C.A. Dodge
carryall, for general orientation. As John and Jonathan had
paid our official respects to the University of Tehran some days
before, our visit that morning was superficial. T h e somewhat
stark, unimaginative architecture provides adequate, if not
too efficient, facilities; and we saw students walking up and
down the corridors in the time-honored way memorizing

4»
material for examinations to come. Our next stop was the
Archaeological Museum in the Maidan-e-Musee, which is an
attractive building with fine examples of prehistoric artifacts
as well as Achaemenian, Sassanian, and Safavid art. We were
particularly interested in seeing some of the "finds" from joint
Persian-University of Pennsylvania Museum expeditions, and
John had had the forethought to provide himself with an im-
pressive documentary introduction signed with a flourish by
the Provost of our University. This secured us an opportunity
to inspect the Golden Bowl of Hasanlu which, however, as
the most precious object in the museum, remained under
lock and key in the solitary grandeur of its glass case. Even
in its present crushed state its pleasing composition, purity of
line, and masterly execution provide most impressive evidence
of the artistic genius of a remote and almost unknown people.
T h e Ethnographic Museum is another stardingly Persian
institution in which wax figures suitably garbed and disposed
record for the people the costumes and occupations of the
tribes and social strata of the recent past. There are bearded
guards in felt caps and bandoleers, farmers and their wives
of Gilan and Mazanderan in the Caspian basin, fierce Turks
and Kurds as well as Qashqa'i and Bakhtiari, tribesmen in
flowing robes with their chador-shrouded wives. Grave
turbaned merchants and artisans sit about in characteristic
postures, and the Tehrani or the visitor gains a vivid impression
of the wide variety of the rugged citizenry of this cosmopolitan
country.
Lunch was a cool interlude at the American Club in
Shemiran with beer and sandwiches beside the pool in which
our countrymen and their wives and children were disporting
themselves. The official American colony abroad has come in
for some pretty acid criticism of late in books and magazines
—often of a fairly obvious political or ex parte nature. Of
course, the experienced bird watcher recognizes instances of
43
the lunkhead or common cluck anjongst his countrymen abrqad
as well as at home. But these Americans abroad are a fair
cross section of their domestic compatriots; and given freedom
in choice of occupation and a limited number of the missionary
minded, the foreign service is competitive with opportunity
at home only if the simple amenities of swimming pools, domes-
tic canned goods and sundries, and responsible transportation
are provided.
T h e afternoon returned us to the past or the exotic present,
which are difficult to distinguish in Iran. The Gulistan or "Rose
Garden" Palace in the center of the city is over a hundred
years old and stands amid gardens with pebbled walks and
blue-tile plashing pools. It is monumental rather than beauti-
ful, but it is carpeted with the most exquisite of rugs in a
land where the rug is the status symbol. These represent the
collections of centuries, and in workmanship they are beyond
compare. The crystal chandeliers of the Throne Room dimly
light the wall recesses housing gifts of embassies and envoys
from all the countries of Europe and the East. The ugly and
the elegant are stacked cheek-by-jowl: paintings, china, plate,
and bric-a-brac, each doubtless symbolizing favors that were
sought or acknowledging dubious diplomatic value received.
It is reminiscent of the Kremlin Museum and indeed the aura
of the Slav and the Tator seeps over the Oxus and is discernible
in rude hut or massive monumental nineteenth-century archi-
tecture as well as in the Jerry-built apartments and office build-
ings rising in both Tehran and Moscow today.
At the end of the Throne Room is the fabulous jewel-
encrusted Peacock Throne of Shah Jehan, lifted from India
by Nadir Shah over two hundred years ago and used with
other ancient oriental regalia in Iranian coronations. As a
special favor we were served tea in a subterranean chamber,
carpeted with the richest of Persian rugs, lighted dimly by
crystal chandeliers, and walled and ceilinged with a mosaic
44
of mirrors, within which we solemnly sat on spindly gilt chairs
and made small talk with the custodian of these treasures.
W e returned partially to the present century in the Sipah-
salar Mosque, in whose great court a fountain plays into a
graceful bowl set in a shallow pool floored with chevrons of
pale green and white tiles. T h e fountain creates the mood of
the "shadow of a rock in a weary land," and the ogive arches
faced by a brilliant fascia of mosaics lead over carpeted tiles
to cool, columned chambers in which the devout are at prayer.
Before returning to the Semiramis to gird ourselves for the
return to the present day and the business of our enterprise,
we stopped at the ancient Maidan-e-Mashgh gate in a busy city
street from the upper chambers of which musicians used to
play to the public below. Somewhat starry-eyed from our
first day among the monuments of Tehran, we met Dr. Torab
Mehra and his Chief of Medical Service, Dr. Gilbert Cherrick,
at the Semiramis and went up to Dr. Samuel Kirkwood's
house in Shemiran for the late afternoon and evening.
T h e Kirkwoods were born to be hosts to the wanderers of
this world, and in their charming way " S a m " and "Sunny"
made us feel at home; under the friendly eyes of the family
dogs and a brown sheep—that thought it was a dog too but
actually was a lawn mower—we frolicked in the well-tended
pool in their walled garden. Nightfall transformed the tawny
mountains into a jagged purple backdrop and brought guests
—Americans and American-Iranians—to instruct us in the
ways of modern Iran and to enjoy rice in its many forms with
meats and sweets prepared by Iranian chefs under Sunny's
direction.
W e met Ambassador and Mrs. Edward T . Wailes, from
whom we were to receive many kindnesses in future weeks.
I relaxed on the broad parapet facing the jagged Elburz, lis-
tening to the delightful schoolgirl chatter of Diana Kirkwood
and "Bonnie" Swisher, who had been prepared by the local
45
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
 —Eh! bien, Christophe? fit Babette.
—Vous parlez sans la reine, répondit le jeune avocat.
Quelques jours après cette déception assez amère, un apprenti
remit à Christophe ce petit billet laconique.
«Chaudieu veut voir son enfant!»
—Qu’il entre! s’écria Christophe.
—O mon saint martyr! dit le ministre en venant embrasser
l’avocat, es-tu remis de tes douleurs?
—Oui, grâce à Paré!
—Grâce à Dieu qui t’a donné la force de supporter la torture!
Mais qu’ai-je appris? tu t’es fait recevoir avocat, tu as prêté le
serment de fidélité, tu as reconnu la prostituée, l’Église catholique,
apostolique et romaine!...
—Mon père l’a voulu.
—Mais ne devons-nous pas quitter nos pères, nos enfants, nos
femmes, tout pour la sainte cause du calvinisme, tout souffrir!... Ah!
Christophe, Calvin, le grand Calvin, tout le parti, le monde, l’avenir
comptent sur ton courage et sur ta grandeur d’âme! Il nous faut ta
vie.
Il y a ceci de remarquable dans l’esprit de l’homme, que le plus
dévoué, tout en se dévouant, se bâtit toujours un roman
d’espérances dans les crises les plus dangereuses. Ainsi, quand,
sur l’eau, sous le Pont-au-Change, le prince, le soldat et le ministre
avaient demandé à Christophe d’aller porter à Catherine ce traité
qui, surpris, devait lui coûter la vie, l’enfant comptait sur son esprit,
sur le hasard, sur son intelligence, et il s’était audacieusement
avancé entre ces deux terribles partis, les Guise et Catherine, où il
avait failli être broyé. Pendant la question, il se disait encore:—Je
m’en tirerai! ce n’est que de la douleur! Mais à cette demande
brutale: Meurs! faite à un garçon qui se trouvait encore impotent, à
peine remis de la torture et qui tenait d’autant plus à la vie qu’il avait
vu la mort de plus près, il était impossible de s’abandonner à des
illusions.
 Christophe répondit tranquillement:—De quoi s’agit-il?
—De tirer bravement un coup de pistolet comme Stuart sur
Minard.
—Sur qui?
—Sur le duc de Guise.
—Un assassinat?
—Une vengeance! Oublies-tu les cent gentilshommes massacrés
sur le même échafaud, à Amboise? Un enfant, le petit d’Aubigné, a
dit en voyant cette boucherie: Ils ont haché la France!
—Vous devez recevoir tous les coups et n’en pas porter, telle est
la religion de l’Évangile, répondit Christophe. Mais, pour imiter les
Catholiques, à quoi bon réformer l’Église?
—Oh! Christophe, ils t’ont fait avocat, et tu raisonnes! dit
Chaudieu.
—Non, mon ami, répondit l’avocat. Mais les princes sont trop
ingrats, et vous serez, vous et les vôtres, les jouets de la maison de
Bourbon...
—Oh! Christophe, si tu avais entendu Calvin, tu saurais que nous
les manions comme des gants!... Les Bourbons sont les gants, nous
sommes la main.
—Lisez! dit Christophe en présentant au ministre la réponse de
Pibrac.
—Oh! mon enfant, tu es ambitieux, tu ne peux plus te dévouer!...
je te plains!
Chaudieu sortit sur cette belle parole.
Quelques jours après cette scène, Christophe, la famille Lallier et
la famille Lecamus étaient réunis, en l’honneur des accordailles de
Babette et de Christophe, dans la vieille salle brune où Christophe
ne couchait plus; car il pouvait alors monter les escaliers et
commençait à se traîner sans béquilles. Il était neuf heures du soir,
on attendait Ambroise Paré. Le notaire de la famille se trouvait
devant une table chargée de contrats. Le pelletier vendait sa maison
et son fonds de commerce à son premier commis, qui payait
immédiatement la maison quarante mille livres, et qui engageait la
maison pour répondre du paiement des marchandises sur lesquelles
il donnait déjà vingt mille livres en à-compte.
Lecamus acquérait pour son fils une magnifique maison en pierre
bâtie par Philibert de l’Orme, rue Saint-Pierre-aux-Bœufs, et la lui
donnait en dot. Le syndic prenait en outre deux cent cinquante mille
livres sur sa fortune, et Lallier en donnait autant pour l’acquisition
d’une belle terre seigneuriale sise en Picardie, de laquelle on avait
demandé cinq cent mille livres. Cette terre étant dans la mouvance
de la couronne, il fallait des lettres-patentes, dites de rescription,
accordées par le roi, outre le paiement de lods et ventes
considérables. Aussi la conclusion du mariage était-elle ajournée
jusqu’à l’obtention de cette faveur royale. Si les bourgeois de Paris
s’étaient fait octroyer le droit d’acheter des seigneuries, la sagesse
du conseil privé y avait mis certaines restrictions relativement aux
terres qui relevaient de la couronne, et la terre que Lecamus guignait
depuis une dizaine d’années se trouvait dans l’exception. Ambroise
s’était fait fort d’apporter l’ordonnance le soir même. Le vieux
Lecamus allait de sa salle à sa porte dans une impatience qui
montrait combien grande avait été son ambition. Enfin, Ambroise
arriva.
—Mon vieil ami, dit le chirurgien assez effaré et regardant le
souper, voyons tes nappes? Bien. Oh! mettez des chandelles de
cire. Dépêchez, dépêchez! cherchez tout ce que vous aurez de plus
beau.
—Qu’y a-t-il donc? demanda le curé de Saint-Pierre-aux-Bœufs.
—La reine-mère et le jeune roi viennent souper avec vous,
répliqua le premier chirurgien. La reine et le roi attendent un vieux
conseiller dont la charge sera vendue à Christophe, et M. de Thou
qui a conclu le marché. N’ayez pas l’air d’avoir été prévenus, je me
suis échappé du Louvre.
En un moment, les deux familles furent sur pied. La mère de
Christophe et la tante de Babette allèrent et vinrent avec une célérité
de ménagères surprises. Malgré la confusion que cet avis jeta dans
l’assemblée de famille, les préparatifs se firent avec une activité qui
tint du prodige. Christophe, ébahi, surpris, confondu d’une pareille
faveur, était sans parole et regardait tout faire machinalement.
—La reine et le roi chez nous! disait la vieille mère.
—La reine! répétait Babette, que dire et que faire!
Au bout d’une heure tout fut changé: la vieille salle était parée, et
la table étincelait. On entendit alors un bruit de chevaux dans la rue.
La lueur des torches portées par les cavaliers de l’escorte fit mettre
le nez à la fenêtre aux bourgeois du quartier. Ce tumulte fut rapide. Il
ne resta sous les piliers que la reine-mère et son fils, le roi Charles
IX, Charles de Gondi nommé grand-maître de la garde-robe et
gouverneur du roi, M. de Thou, le vieux conseiller, le secrétaire
d’État Pinard et deux pages.
—Braves gens, dit la reine en entrant, nous venons, le roi mon
fils et moi, signer le contrat de mariage du fils à notre pelletier; mais
c’est à la condition qu’il restera catholique. Il faut être catholique
pour entrer au parlement, il faut être catholique pour posséder une
terre qui relève de la couronne, il faut être catholique pour s’asseoir
à la table du roi! N’est-ce pas, Pinard?
Le secrétaire d’État parut en montrant des lettres-patentes.
—Si nous ne sommes pas ici tous catholiques, dit le petit roi,
Pinard jettera tout au feu; mais nous sommes tous catholiques ici?
reprit-il en jetant des yeux assez fiers sur toute l’assemblée.
—Oui, sire, dit Christophe Lecamus en fléchissant quoique avec
peine le genou et baisant la main que le jeune roi lui tendit.
La reine Catherine, qui tendit aussi sa main à Christophe, le
releva brusquement et, l’emmenant à quelques pas dans un coin, lui
dit:—Ah! çà, mon garçon, pas de finauderies? Nous jouons franc jeu!
—Oui, madame, reprit-il saisi par l’éclatante récompense et par
l’honneur que lui faisait cette reine reconnaissante.
—Hé! bien, mons Lecamus, le roi mon fils et moi nous vous
permettons de traiter de la charge du bonhomme Groslay, conseiller
au Parlement, que voici, dit la reine. Vous y suivrez, j’espère, jeune
homme, les errements de monsieur le Premier.
De Thou s’avança et dit:—Je réponds de lui, madame.
—Eh! bien, instrumentez, garde-notes, dit Pinard.
—Puisque le roi notre maître nous fait la faveur de signer le
contrat de ma fille, s’écria Lallier, je paie tout le prix de la seigneurie.
—Les dames peuvent s’asseoir, dit le jeune roi d’une façon
gracieuse. Pour présent de noces à l’accordée, je fais, avec
l’agrément de ma mère, remise de mes droits.
Le vieux Lecamus et Lallier tombèrent à genoux et baisèrent la
main du jeune roi.
—Mordieu! sire, combien ces bourgeois ont d’argent! lui dit Gondi
à l’oreille.
Le jeune roi se prit à rire.
—Leurs seigneuries étant dans leurs bonnes, dit le vieux
Lecamus, veulent-elles me permettre de leur présenter mon
successeur et lui continuer la patente royale de la fourniture de leurs
maisons?
—Voyons, dit le roi.
Lecamus fit avancer son successeur qui devint blême.
—Si ma chère mère le permet, nous nous mettrons tous à table,
dit le jeune roi.
Le vieux Lecamus eut l’attention de donner au roi un gobelet
d’argent qu’il avait obtenu de Benvenuto Cellini, lors de son séjour
en France à l’hôtel de Nesle, et qui n’avait pas coûté moins de deux
mille écus.
—Oh! ma mère, le beau travail! s’écria le jeune roi en levant le
gobelet par le pied.
—C’est de Florence, répondit Catherine.
—Pardonnez-moi, madame, dit Lecamus, c’est fait en France par
un Florentin. Ce qui est de Florence serait à la reine, mais ce qui est
fait en France est au roi.
—J’accepte, bonhomme, s’écria Charles IX, et désormais ce sera
mon gobelet.
—Il est assez bien, dit la reine en examinant ce chef-d’œuvre,
pour le comprendre dans les joyaux de la couronne.—Eh! bien,
maître Ambroise, dit la reine à l’oreille de son chirurgien en
désignant Christophe, l’avez-vous bien soigné? marchera-t-il?
—Il volera, dit en souriant le chirurgien. Ah! vous nous l’avez bien
finement débauché.
—Faute d’un moine, l’abbaye ne chôme pas, répondit la reine
avec cette légèreté qu’on lui a reprochée et qui n’était qu’à la
surface.
Le souper fut gai, la reine trouva Babette jolie, et, en grande
reine qu’elle fut toujours, elle lui passa au doigt un de ses diamants
afin de compenser la perte que le gobelet faisait chez les Lecamus.
Le roi Charles IX, qui depuis prit peut-être trop de goût à ces sortes
d’invasions chez ses bourgeois, soupa de bon appétit; puis, sur un
mot de son nouveau gouverneur, qui, dit-on, avait charge de lui faire
oublier les vertueuses instructions de Cypierre, il entraîna le premier
président, le vieux conseiller démissionnaire, le secrétaire d’État, le
curé, le notaire et les bourgeois à boire si druement, que la reine
Catherine sortit au moment où elle vit la gaieté sur le point de
devenir bruyante. Au moment où la reine se leva, Christophe, son
père et les deux femmes prirent des flambeaux et l’accompagnèrent
jusque sur le seuil de la boutique. Là, Christophe osa tirer la reine
par sa grande manche et lui fit un signe d’intelligence. Catherine
s’arrêta, renvoya le vieux Lecamus et les deux femmes par un geste,
et dit à Christophe:—Quoi?
—Si vous pouvez, madame, tirer parti de ceci, dit-il en parlant à
l’oreille de la reine, sachez que le duc de Guise est visé par des
assassins...
—Tu es un loyal sujet, dit Catherine en souriant, et je ne
t’oublierai jamais.
 Elle lui tendit sa main, si célèbre par sa beauté, mais en la
dégantant, ce qui pouvait passer pour une marque de faveur; aussi
Christophe devint-il tout à fait royaliste en baisant cette adorable
main.
—Ils m’en débarrasseront donc, de ce soudard, sans que j’y sois
pour quelque chose! pensa-t-elle en mettant son gant.
Elle monta sur sa mule et regagna le Louvre avec ses deux
pages.
Christophe resta sombre tout en buvant, la figure austère
d’Ambroise lui reprochait son apostasie; mais les événements
postérieurs donnèrent gain de cause au vieux syndic. Christophe
n’aurait certes pas échappé aux massacres de la Saint-Barthélemi,
ses richesses et sa terre l’eussent désigné aux meurtriers. L’histoire
a enregistré le sort cruel de la femme du successeur de Lallier, belle
créature dont le corps resta nu, accroché par les cheveux à l’un des
étais du Pont-au-Change pendant trois jours. Babette frémit alors, en
pensant qu’elle aurait pu subir un pareil traitement, si Christophe fût
demeuré Calviniste, car tel fut bientôt le nom des Réformés.
L’ambition de Calvin fut satisfaite, mais après sa mort.
Telle fut l’origine de la célèbre maison parlementaire des
Lecamus. Tallemant des Réaux a commis une erreur en les faisant
venir de Picardie. Les Lecamus eurent intérêt plus tard à dater de
l’acquisition de leur principale terre, située en ce pays. Le fils de
Christophe, qui lui succéda sous Louis XIII, fut le père de ce riche
président Lecamus qui, sous Louis XIV, édifia le magnifique hôtel qui
disputait à l’hôtel Lambert l’admiration des Parisiens et des
étrangers; mais qui, certes, est l’un des plus beaux monuments de
Paris. L’hôtel Lecamus existe encore rue de Thorigny, quoiqu’au
commencement de la Révolution, il ait été pillé comme appartenant
à M. de Juigné, l’archevêque de Paris. Toutes les peintures y ont
alors été effacées; et, depuis, les pensionnats qui s’y sont logés l’ont
fortement endommagé. Ce palais, gagné dans le vieux logis de la
rue de la Pelleterie, montre encore les beaux résultats qu’obtenait
jadis l’Esprit de Famille. Il est permis de douter que l’individualisme
moderne, engendré par le partage égal des successions, élève de
pareils monuments.

FIN DU MARTYR CALVINISTE.

 NOTE.

Voici cette chanson publiée par l’abbé de La Place dans son

Recueil de pièces intéressantes, où se trouve la dissertation dont
nous avons parlé.
LE CONVOI DU DUC DE GUISE.

Qui veut ouïr chanson? (bis)

C’est du grand duc de Guise;
Et bon, bon, bon, bon,
Di, dan, di, dan, bon,
C’est du grand duc de Guise!
(Ce dernier vers se parlait et se disait sans doute comiquement.)
Qui est mort et enterré.

Qui est mort et enterré. (bis)

Aux quatre coins du poële,
Et bon, etc.,
Quatre gentilshomm’s y avoit.

Quatre gentilshomm’s y avait, (bis)

L’un portoit son grand casque,
Et bon, etc.,
Et l’autre ses pistolets.

Et l’autre ses pistolets, (bis)

Et l’autre son épée,
Et bon, etc.,
Qui tant d’hugu’nots a tués.

Qui tant d’hugu’nots a tués. (bis)

Venoit le quatrième,
Et bon, etc.,
Qui étoit le plus dolent.

Qui étoit le plus dolent; (bis)

Après venoient les pages,
Et b t
 Et bon, etc.,
Et les valets de pied.

Et les valets de pied, (bis)

Avecque de grands crêpes,
Et bon, etc.,
Et des souliers cirés.

Et des souliers cirés, (bis)

Et des beaux bas d’estame,
Et bon, etc.,
Et des culottes de piau.

Et des culottes de piau. (bis)

La cérémonie faite,
Et bon, etc.,
Chacun s’alla coucher.

Chacun s’alla coucher, (bis)

Les uns avec leurs femmes,
Et bon, etc.,
Et les autres tout seul.

Cette découverte curieuse prouverait jusqu’à un certain point la

culpabilité de Théodore de Bèze, qui voulut alors diminuer par le
ridicule l’horreur que causait cet assassinat. Il paraît que l’air faisait
le principal mérite de cette ronde.
 TABLE DES MATIÈRES.

ÉTUDES PHILOSOPHIQUES.

Massimilla Doni 1
Gambara 74
L’Enfant maudit 129
Les Marana 220
Adieu 275
Le Réquisitionnaire 315
El Verdugo 330
Un Drame au bord de la mer 340
L’Auberge rouge 359
L’Élixir de longue vie 391
Maître Cornélius 413
Sur Catherine de Médicis 468
Introduction 469
Première partie.—Le Martyr calviniste 503

FIN DE LA TABLE.
 Au lecteur.
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par endroits.
De plus, les corrections indiquées dans le texte ont été
apportées. Elles sont soulignées par des pointillés. Positionnez
le curseur sur le mot souligné pour voir le texte original.
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