Download as doc, pdf, or txt
Download as doc, pdf, or txt
You are on page 1of 10

COURSE HANDBOOK:

P02474
DRESS AND IDENTITY IN THE
ROMAN EMPIRE

Course organiser: Dr. Ursula Rothe


e-mail: u.rothe@ed.ac.uk
Office: David Hume Tower 3.16
Tel.: 0131 650 3656
Office Hour: Wed. 2-3pm

1
Brief Description of the Course
In recent years, historians have begun to take dress seriously, not only as a form of material culture, but also as a means
by which to observe aspects of identity (status, gender, ethnicity). As such, the study of dress behaviour holds enormous
potential for Roman cultural and social history. This course explores not only various examples of dress styles in
different regions of the Empire, but also their meaning in terms of cultural and social identity. It is interdisciplinary in
character, drawing on theoretical models from the social sciences as well as written, pictorial and other archaeological
sources.

Teaching Arrangements
The course is taught in weekly seminar meetings. Students should prepare the literature for each meeting in advance and
consider the questions for that topic in their readings. The literature for each topic is available in the Edinburgh
University Library and the National Library of Scotland. Literature which is not available from these two libraries is
marked with an * in the bibliography and is available from Dr. Rothe in PDF form.
ASSESSMENT
The course will be assessed by 2 essays of 1500-2000 words due on Friday 12th December. The topics for these will be
chosen and formulated by the students.

Learning Outcomes
After successful completion of this course the student will be able to demonstrate in
written coursework and seminar discussions knowledge and understanding of:
• the different types of dress worn in the Roman Empire
• the sources used to identify dress behaviour in the Roman Empire and specific problems of each source type in terms
of representativity
• past approaches to dress in the historical sciences and the significance of new approaches and attitudes
• different strains of dress theory from the social sciences
Students will also demonstrate
• the ability to develop frameworks within which dress can be used to examine identity in its various forms
• written communication skills
• analytical skills
• oral presentation and discussion skills
• an ability to deal independently with a wide-ranging body of information and to
summarise that information.

Week starting Topic

22nd Sept. Introduction, presentation topics, bibliography


th
29 Sept. 1. Sources for dress
6th Oct. 2. Dress and identity theory from the social sciences
th
13 Oct. 3. Dress and status identity
th
20 Oct. 4. Dress and gender identity
27th Oct. 5. Dress and religious/philosophical identity
rd
3 Nov. 6. Dress and occupational identity
10th Nov. 7. Dress and cultural identity: North-western provinces
th
17 Nov. 8. Dress and cultural identity: Noricum-Pannonia
th
24 Nov. 9. Dress and cultural identity: Palmyra
1st Dec. 10. Dress in late antiquity: continuity and change

2
1. SOURCES FOR DRESS
Questions to consider:
 What different sources are there for dress in the  How and to what extent can we find out what
Roman Empire? people wore in everyday life vs. idealised images?
 What are the specific problems relating to each  How useful are ancient terms?
type?

Bibliography:
Harlow, M. (2005), “Dress in the Historia Augusta: The role of dress in historical narrative” in: L. Cleland/M.
Harlow/L. Llewellyn-Jones (eds), The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, Oxford, 143-153
Kolb, F. (1974), “Die paenula in der Historia Augusta” in: Historia-Augusta-Kolloquium, Bonn 1971, Bonn, 81-101
Kolb, F. (1976), “Kleidungsstücke in der Historia Augusta: Textkonjekturen und –emendationen zu AS 33, 4. 41, 1. A
45, 5, mit einem Exkurs über die dalmatica” in: Historia-Augusta-Kolloquium, Bonn 1972-74, Bonn, 153-171
Newbold, R. (2005), “Attire in Ammianus and Gregory of Tours” in: Studia Humaniora Tartuensia 6, 1-14
(http://www.ut.ee/klassik/sht/2005/newbold1.pdf)
Rothe, U. (unpublished), “The Sources” in: Dress and Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire, PhD
thesis, University of Manchester, 71-115
Vout, C. (1996), “The myth of the toga: Understanding the history of Roman dress” in: Greece & Rome 43, 204-20
Wild, J.P. (1985), “The clothing of Britannia, Gallia Belgica and Germania Inferior” in: ANRW II.12.3, 362-423
(introductory and concluding comments)

2. DRESS AND IDENTITY THEORY FROM THE SOCIAL SCIENCES


Questions to consider:
 What are the general perspectives on dress from  Are there modern case studies in the literature that
sociology, anthropology and psychology? may be helpful for dress in the Roman Empire?
 How have these changed over recent years?  What terms are used for dress? What is the
 What different types of identity does the literature connotational ‘baggage’ attached to different dress
distinguish? How is dress linked to these? terms? How appropriate do you think the concept of
‘fashion’ is for the ancient period?

Bibliography:
Barnes, R./Eicher, J. (eds) (1992), Dress and Gender: Making and Meaning, Providence
Comaroff, J.L./Comaroff, J. (1992), “Bodily reform as historical practice” in: J.L. Comaroff/J. Comaroff (eds),
Ethnography and the Historical Imagination, Boulder, 69-91
Cordwell, J.M./Schwartz, R.A. (eds), The Fabrics of Culture: The Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment, Den Haag
Davis, F. (1992), Fashion, Culture and Identity, Chicago
Durham, D. (1999), “Predicaments of dress: polyvalency and the ironies of a cultural identity” in: American Ethnologist
26.2, 389-411
Eicher, J.B. (ed.) (1995), Dress and Ethnicity: Change Across Space and Time, Oxford
Entwistle, J. (2000), The Fashioned Body, Oxford
Farriss, N. (1986), “Foreword” in: A. Appadurai (ed.), The Social Life of Things: Commodities in Cultural Perspective,
New York
Flügel, J. (1930), The Psychology of Clothes, London
Griffin, R. (2002), “Afterthought: redressing the body politic” in: W. Parkins (ed.), Fashioning the Body Politic,
Oxford/New York, 217-226
Hartman, G.W. (1949), “Clothing: personal problem and social issue” in: Journal of Home Economics 41, 295-298
Hendrickson, H. (ed.) (1996), Clothing and Difference. Embodied Identities in Colonial and Post-Colonial Africa,
Durham/London
Kuper, H. (1973), “Costume and identity” in: Comparative Studies in Society and History 15.3, 348-367
Lurie, A. (1992), The Language of Clothes, London

3
Lynch, A. (1999), Dress, Gender and Cultural Change: Asian American and African American Rite, Oxford
Mazrui, A.A. (1970), “The robes of rebellion” in: Encounter 34, 19-32
Ramanujan, M. (1984), “The language of clothes: an Indian perspective” in: Media Development 31.4, 30-33
Roach, M.E./Eicher, J.B. (eds) (1965), Dress, Adornment and the Social Order, New York
Ruesch, J./Kees, W. (1956), Nonverbal Communication: Notes on the Visual Perception of Human Relations,
Berkeley/Los Angeles
Schulte Nordholt, H. (ed.) (1997), Outward Appearances. Dressing State and Society in Indonesia, Leiden
Stone, G.P. (1962), “Appearance and the self” in: A.M. Rose (ed.), Human Behaviour and Social Processes, Boston
Tarlo, E. (1996), Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India, Chicago/London
Weiner, A./Schneider, J. (1986), “Cloth and the organization of human experience” in: Current Anthropology 27.2,
178-184

3. DRESS AND STATUS IDENTITY


Questions to consider:
 What types of status identity existed in the Roman  How and to what extent was dress linked to this?
Empire? (political? legal? wealth?) Give examples.
 Could symbols of status be usurped?

Bibliography:
For an insider’s view of the toga : Tertullian, De Pallio (http://www.tertullian.org/)
Bieber, M. (1931), s.v. stola in: Pauly-Wissowa 7, 56-62
Gardner, J. (1986), “Proofs of status in the Roman world” in: Bulletin of the Institute of Classical Studies 33, 1-14
*Goette, H.R. (1990), Studien zu römischen Togadarstellungen (Beiträge zur Erschliessung hellenistischer und
frühkaiserzeitlicher Skulptur und Architektur 10), Mainz
Newbold, R. (2005), “Attire in Ammianus and Gregory of Tours” in: Studia Humaniora Tartuensia 6, 1-14
(http://www.ut.ee/klassik/sht/2005/newbold1.pdf)
Olson, K. (2006), “Matrona and Whore: Clothing and Definition in Roman Antiquity” in: C. Faraone/L.K. McClure
(eds), Prostitutes and Courtesans in the Ancient World, Wisconsin, 186-205
Reinhold, M. (1971), “Usurpation of status and status symbols” in: Historia 20, 275-302
Reinhold, M. (1970), The History of Purple as a Status Symbol in Antiquity, Brussels
Stone, S. (1994), “The toga: from national costume to ceremonial costume” in: J.L. Sebesta/L. Bonfante (eds), The
World of Roman Costume, Madison, 13-45
Swift, E. (2003), Roman Dress Accessories, Oxford
Van Driel-Murray, C. (1987), “Roman footwear: a mirror of fashion and society” in: D.E. Friendship-Taylor/J.M.
Swann/S. Thomas (eds), Recent Research in Archaeological Footwear (Association of Archaeological Illustrators and
Surveyors Technical Paper 8), 32-42
Vout, C. (1996), “The Myth of the Toga: Understanding the History of Roman Dress” in: Greece & Rome 43, 204-20
Wilson, L.M. (1924), The Roman Toga, Baltimore
Wilson, L.M. (1938), The Clothing of the Ancient Romans, Baltimore

4. DRESS AND GENDER IDENTITY/AGE IDENTITY


Questions to consider:
 In what ways did men and women’s dress differ?  Were there differences in dress behaviour between
What does this symbolise more generally about men and women with regard to dress change (esp. in
expectations of men/women? Is this also linked to the provinces)? Why?
class?  What did children wear? At what age did they adopt
 How and why did Roman women’s dress change over adult dress? Why was this important?
time?

Bibliography:
4
Cicero, Phillipics 2.44
Baetschi, A.M./Fögen, T. (2005), “Schönheitsbilder und Geschlechterrollen im antiken Rom: Kosmetik, Frisuren,
Kleidung und Schmuck” in: Forum Classicum 48, 213-226
Bartman, E. (1999), Portraits of Livia: Imaging the Imperial Woman in Augustan Rome, Cambridge
Bieber, M. (1931), s.v. stola in: Pauly-Wissowa 7, 56-62
Christ, A.T. (1997), “The Masculine Ideal of 'The Race that Wears the Toga,'” in: Art Journal 56, 24-30
D'Ambrosio, A. (2001), Women and Beauty in Pompeii. Los Angeles
Davies, G. (2005), “What made the Roman toga virilis?” in: L. Cleland/M. Harlow/L. Llewellyn-Jones (eds), The
Clothed Body in the Ancient World, Oxford
Harlow, M. (2004), “Clothes maketh man: Power dressing and the elite male in the later Roman world” in: L.
Brubaker/J. Smith (eds), Gender in the Early Medieval World, Cambridge, 44-69
Raditsa, L. (1985), “The appearance of women and contact: Tertullian’s De Habitu Feminarum” in: Athenaeum 63,
297-326
Richlin, A. (1995), “Making Up a Woman: The Face of Roman Gender” in: H. Eilberg-Schwartz/W. Doniger (eds), Off
With Her Head! The Denial of Women's Identity in Myth, Religion, and Culture, Berkeley, 185-214
Rothe, U. (2007), Dress and Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire, PhD thesis, Manchester
Schade, K. (2003), Frauen in der Spätantike - Status und Repräsentation. Eine Untersuchung zur römischen und
frühbyzantinischen Bildniskunst, Mainz
Sebesta, J.L. (1994), “Symbolism in the costume of the Roman woman” in: J.L. Sebesta/L. Bonfante (eds), The World
of Roman Costume, Madison, 46-53
Sebesta, J.L. (1997), “Women's Costume and Feminine Civic Morality in Augustan Rome” in: Gender & History
9, 529-41
Sebesta, J.L. (2005), “The toga praetexta of Roman children and praetextate garments” in: L. Cleland/M. Harlow/L.
Llewellyn-Jones (eds), The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, Oxford
Swift, E. (2003), Roman Dress Accessories, Oxford

5. DRESS AND RELIGIOUS/PHILOSOPHICAL IDENTITY


Questions to consider:
 Were certain garments or ensembles ever linked to  Did this change over time?
people belonging to specific religious or philosophical  What happened when Christianity appeared?
movements?

Bibliography:
Bieber, M. (1959), “Roman men in Greek himation (Romani palliati). A contribution to the history of copying” in:
Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society 103.3, 374-417
Brown, P. (1988), The Body and Society: Men, Women and Sexual Renunciation in Early Christianity, New York
Cenerini, F. (2005), “Religione, rito e costume Bologna nell' Antichità” in: A cura di Giuseppe Sassatelli e Angela
Donati (Storia di Bologna), Bologna, 603-630
Edwards, D.R. (1994), “The Social, Religious, and Political Aspects of Costume in Josephus” in: J.L. Sebesta/L.
Bonfante (eds), The World of Roman Costume, Madison, 153-162
Hartmann, G. (2005), “"Ein alter Mann in einem Kleid aus Fellen." Der christliche Wundertäter der Spätantike und sein
Kostüm” in: A. Köb/P. Riedel (eds), Kleidung und Repräsentation in Antike und Mittelalter, München, 63-70
Marrou, H.I. (1964), ΜΟΥCIKOC ANHP: Étude sur les scènes de la vie intellectuelle figurant sur les monuments
funéraires romains (reprint from 1938), Rome
Newbold, R. (2005), “Attire in Ammianus and Gregory of Tours” in: Studia Humaniora Tartuensia 6, 1-14
(http://www.ut.ee/klassik/sht/2005/newbold1.pdf)
Tertullian, De Pallio (http://www.tertullian.org/)

6. DRESS AND OCCUPATIONAL IDENTITY


Questions to consider:
5
 How was dress behaviour linked to occupation?  Don’t forget e.g. artisans, hard labourers,
 Symbolism vs. practicality? politicians, prostitutes!
 Were there ever such things as ‘uniforms’?

Bibliography:
Olson, K. (2006), “Matrona and Whore: Clothing and Definition in Roman Antiquity” in: C. Faraone/L.K. McClure
(eds), Prostitutes and Courtesans in the Ancient World, Wisconsin, 186-205
Sander, E. (1963), “Die Kleidung des römischen Soldaten” in: Historia 12, 144-166
Southern, P./Dixon, K. (1996), The Late Roman Army, London
Sumner, G. (2002), Roman Military Clothing (1): 100 BC-AD 200, Oxford
Sumner, G. (2003), Roman Military Clothing (2): AD 200-400, Oxford
Wild, J.P. (1985), “The clothing of Britannia, Gallia Belgica and Germania Inferior” in: ANRW II.12.3, 362-423
Zimmer, G. (1982), Römische Berufsdarstellungen, Berlin (esp. 65ff.)

7. DRESS AND ETHNIC IDENTITY: NORTH-WESTERN PROVINCES


Questions to consider:
 What are the sources for dress in the region and who  Is it justified to say native dress is always a
do they represent? continuation of pre-Roman dress, and Roman dress is
 Is it possible to find out what was worn in the region new?
before the Romans arrived?  How do gender, regional differences and other factors
 What does the native dress look like? affect dress behaviour?
 Do people in the region wear Roman dress? If so,
who?

Bibliography:
Bauchhenß, G. (ed.) (1979), CSIR Deutschland III,2: Germania Inferior: Bonn und Umgebung: Zivile Grabdenkmäler,
Bonn
*Böhme, A. (1978), “Das frühkaiserzeitliche Brandgrab von Rohrbach als Zeugnis der keltischen ‘Menimane’-Tracht”
in: Archäologisches Korrespondenzblatt 8, 209-213
Böhme, A. (1985), “Tracht- und Bestattungssitten in den germanischen Provinzen und der Belgica” in: ANRW II.12.3,
423-455
*Böhme-Schönberger, A. (1995), “Das Mainzer Grabmal von Menimane und Blussus als Zeugnis des
Romanisierungsprozess” in: W. Czysz/C.-M. Hüssen/H.-P. Kuhnen/C. Sommer/G. Weber (eds), Provinzialrömische
Forschungen. Festschrift für Günter Ulbert zum 65. Geburtstag, Munich, 1-11
*Boppert, W. (1991), “Zur bildlichen Darstellung der einheimischen Bevölkerung in Mainz auf Grabdenkmälern des 1.
Jahrhunderts” in: Akten des 2. internationalen Kolloquiums über Probleme des provinzialrömischen Kunstschaffens,
Vesprém, 91-95. Akten des 2. internationalen Kolloquiums über Probleme des provinzialrömischen Kunstschaffens,
Vesprém
Boppert, W. (ed.) (1992), CSIR Deutschland II,6: Germania Superior: Zivile Grabsteine aus Mainz und Umgebung,
Mainz
*Boppert, W. (2000), “Grabdenkmäler als Zeugnisse des Romanisierungsprozesses im östlichen Trevererland:
autochtone Traditionen und italisch-hellenistische Einflüsse in der Sepulkralkunst” in: H. Walter (ed.), La sculpture
d'époque romaine dans le nord et à l'est des Gaules et dans les régions avoisinantes: acquis et problématiques
actuelles, Paris, 95-107
*Dragendorf, H./Krüger, E. (1924), Das Grabmal von Igel, Trier
Espérandieu, E., (1907-1981), Recueil Général des Bas-Reliefs, Statues et Bustes de la Gaule Romaine, Paris
Fournier, P.F. (1956), “Patron d’une robe de femme et d’un bas gallo-romains trouvés aux Martres-de-Veyre” in:
Bulletin Historique et Scientifique de l’Auvergne 76, 202-203
Freigang, Y. (1997a), “Die Grabmäler der gallo-römischen Kultur im Moselland. Studien zur Selbstdarstellung einer
Gesellschaft” in: Jahrbuch des RGZM 44/1, 277-440
*Freigang, Y. (1997b), “Die Bedeutung der Kleidung und der Attribute auf Grabmälern im nordöstlichen Teil der
Provinz Gallia Belgica” in: B. Djuric/I. Lazar (eds), Akten des 4. internationalen Kolloquiums über Probleme des
provinzialrömischen Kunstschaffens, Ljubljana, 107-117
6
Galsterer, B./Galsterer, H. (1975), Die römischen Steininschriften aus Köln, Cologne
Goethert, K. (2002), Kaiser, Prinzen, prominente Bürger: römische Bildniskunst des 1. und 2. Jahrhunderts n. Chr. im
Rheinischen Landesmuseum Trier, Trier
Hope, V.M. (2001), Constructing Identity: The Roman Funerary Monuments of Aquileia, Mainz and Nîmes (BAR
International Series 960), Oxford
*Klumbach, H. (1936), “Römische Grabsteine von Selzen” in: Mainzer Zeitschrift 31, 33-39
Kolb, F. (1973), “Römische Mäntel: paenula, lacerna, μανδύη” in: Mitteilungen des Deutschen Archäologischen
Instituts, Römische Abteilung 80, 69-162
*Krüger, E. (1938), “Ein römischer Familien-Grabstein in Koblenz” in: Festschrift A. Oxé, Darmstadt, 128-134
Langlois, S. (1959-1962), “La vêtement gallo-romain d’après les scènes figureés sur des reliefs du Museé
Archéologique de Dijon” in: Mémoires de la Commission des Antiquités du Département de la Côte-d’Or 25, 195-208
*Lehner, H. (1905), Das Provinzialmuseum in Bonn, Bonn
*Mariёn, M.E. (1943/1944), “Monuments funéraires de Buzenol I-V” in: Bulletin des Musées d’Art et d’Histoire
*Mariёn, M.E. (1945a), La sculpture à l’époque romaine, Brussels
Mariёn, M.E. (1945b), Les monuments funéraires de l’Arlon romain, Brussels
*Massow, W. von (1932), Die Grabmäler von Neumagen, Berlin
*Mersch, J. (1985), La Colonne d'Igel. Das Denkmal von Igel, Luxembourg
*Neeb, E. (1927), “Ein römisches Grabdenkmal aus Weisenau” in: Mainzer Zeitschrift 22, 41-44
*Precht, G. (1975), Das Grabmal des Lucius Poblicius, Rekonstruktion und Aufbau, Römisch-Germanisches Museum
der Stadt Köln, Cologne
Roche-Bernard, G. (1993), Costumes et textiles en Gaule romaine, Paris
Rothe, U. (unpublished), Dress and Identity in the Rhine-Moselle Region of the Roman Empire, PhD thesis, Manchester
Schindler, R. (1977), Führer durch das Landesmuseum Trier, Trier
*Selzer, W. (1988), Landesmuseum Mainz: Römische Steindenkmäler: Mainz in Römischer Zeit: Katalog zur
Sammlung, Mainz
*Van Driel-Murray, C. (2001), “Footwear in the North-Western Provinces of the Roman Empire” in: O. Goubitz/W.
Groenman-van Waateringe/C. van Driel-Murray (eds), Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from
Prehistoric Times until 1800, Zwolle, 337-376
Wild, J.P. (1968a), “Die Frauentracht der Ubier” in: Germania 46.1, 67-73
Wild, J.P. (1985), “The clothing of Britannia, Gallia Belgica and Germania Inferior” in: ANRW II.12.3, 362-423

8. DRESS AND ETHNIC IDENTITY: NORICUM & PANNONIA


Questions to consider:
 What are the sources for dress in the region and who  Is it justified to say native dress is always a
do they represent? continuation of pre-Roman dress, and Roman dress is
 Is it possible to find out what was worn in the region new?
before the Romans arrived?  How do gender, regional differences and other factors
 What does the native dress look like? affect dress behaviour?
 Do people in the region wear Roman dress? If so,
who?

Bibliography:
Čremošnik, I. (1964), “Die einheimische Tracht Noricums, Pannoniens und Illyricums und ihre Vorbilder” in: Latomus
23, 760-773
Eckhart, L. (1976), CSIR Österreich III,2: Die Skulpturen des Stadtgebiets von Lauriacum, Vienna
*Faber, A./Jilek, S. (2006), “Das Rollenbild norisch-pannonischer Frauen und seine Darstellung in den Gräbern: drunter
und drüber” in Bayerische Vorgeschichtsblätter 71, 149-157
Garbsch, J. (1965), Die norisch-pannonische Frauentracht im 1. und 2. Jahrhundert (Münchener Beiträge zur Vor- und
Frühgeschichte 11), Munich

7
Garbsch, J. (1985), “Die norisch-pannonische Tracht” in: ANRW II.12.3, 546-577
Láng, M. (1919), “Die pannonische Frauentracht” in: Österreichische Jahreshefte 19-20, Beiblatt, 209-260
*Martin-Kilcher, S. (1993), “Römische Grabfunde als Quelle zur Trachtgeschichte im zirkumalpinen Raum” in: M.
Struck (ed.), Römerzeitliche Gräber als Quellen zu Religion, Bevölkerungsstruktur und Sozialgeschichte. Konferenz
Mainz 1991, Mainz, 181-203
Mautner, K./Geramb, V. von (1932), Steirisches Trachtenbuch, Graz
*Schober, A. (1923), Die römischen Grabsteine von Noricum und Pannonien (Sonderschrift des Österreichischen
Archäologischen Instituts in Wien 10), Vienna

9. DRESS AND ETHNIC IDENTITY: PALMYRA


Questions to consider:
 What are the sources for dress in the region and who  Do people in the region wear Roman dress? If so,
do they represent? who?
 Is it possible to find out what was worn in the region  What other cultural influences are at work that are
before the Romans arrived? expressed in dress behaviour?
 What does the native dress look like?

Bibliography:
*al-As’ad, K./Chehade, J./ Schmidt-Colinet, A., (1995), “Die Textilien aus Palmyra. Ein internationales und
interdisziplinäres Projekt” in: A. Schmidt-Colinet (ed.), Palmyra: Kulturbegegnung im Grenzbereich, Mainz, 54-56
*Böhme, A./Schottroff, W. (1979), Palmyrenische Grabreliefs, Frankfurt
*Champdor, A. (1953), Les Ruins de Palmyre, Paris
Colledge, M.A.R. (1976), The Art of Palmyra, London
*Gawlikowski, M. (1968), Palmyra, Warsaw
*Gawlikowski, M. (1970), Monuments funéraires de Palmyre, Warsaw
Pfister, R. (1934-1940), Textiles de Palmyre I-III, Paris
*Schmidt-Colinet, A. (ed.) (2004), Palmyrenische Grabkunst als Ausdruck lokaler Identität(en): Fallbeispiele
Sammelband: Lokale Identitäten in Randgebieten des Römischen Reiches. Akten des Internationalen Symposiums in
Wiener Neustadt, 24. - 26. April 2003, Vienna
*Stauffer, A. (1995), “Kleider, Kissen, bunte Tücher” in: A. Schmidt-Colinet (ed.), Palmyra: Kulturbegegnung im
Grenzbereich, Mainz, 57-71
*Stauffer, A. (1996), “Textiles from Palmyra: Local production and the import and imitation of Chinese silk weavings”
in: Palmyra and the Silk Road: Special Issue Documenting the Activities of the International Colloquium, Damascus
1996=Les annales archéologiques arabes syriennes 42, 425-430
*Taha, A. (1982), “Men’s costume in Palmyra” in: Les annales archéologiques arabes syriennes 32, 117-132

10. DRESS IN LATE ANTIQUITY: CONTINUITY AND CHANGE


Questions to consider:
 How do the sources for dress change in the late  ‘Germanisation’, ‘militarisation’,
Roman period? ‘Christianisation’?
 How does dress reflect changes in society in the  Does the attitude toward dress change in any way?
period?

Bibliography:
Arce, J. (2005), “Dress control in Late Antiquity: Codex Theodosianus 14. 10. 1 - 4” in: A. Köb/P. Riedel (eds),
Kleidung und Repräsentation in Antike und Mittelalter, München, 33-44
Bracker, J. (1975), “Politische und kulturelle Grundlagen für Kunst in Rom seit Postumus” in: ANRW II.4, 763-782
Cleland, L./Harlow, M./Llewellyn-Jones, L. (eds) (2005), The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, Oxford
*Delbrück, R. (1929), Die Consulardiptychen und verwandte Denkmäler, Berlin
*Gerke, F. (1940), Die christlichen Sarkophage der vorkonstantinischen Zeit, Berlin

8
Harlow, M. (2004), “Clothes maketh man: Power dressing and the elite male in the later Roman world” in: L.
Brubaker/J. Smith (eds), Gender in the Early Medieval World, Cambridge, 44-69
James, L./Tougher, S. (2005), “Get your kit on! Some issues in the depiction of clothing in Byzantium” in: L.
Cleland/M. Harlow/L. Llewellyn-Jones (eds), The Clothed Body in the Ancient World, Oxford
Leutzsch, M. (2005), “Grundbedürfnis und Statussymbol: Kleidung im Neuen Testament” in: A. Köb/P. Riedel (eds),
Kleidung und Repräsentation in Antike und Mittelalter, München, 9-32
MacMullen, R. (1963), Soldier and Civilian in the Later Roman Empire, Cambridge (USA)
Newbold, R. (2005), “Attire in Ammianus and Gregory of Tours” in: Studia Humaniora Tartuensia 6, 1-14
(http://www.ut.ee/klassik/sht/2005/newbold1.pdf)
Schade, K. (2003), Frauen in der Spätantike - Status und Repräsentation. Eine Untersuchung zur römischen und
frühbyzantinischen Bildniskunst, Mainz
Southern, P./Dixon, K. (1996), The Late Roman Army, London

GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY:
Glossary of dress terms in Roman history: http://www.uky.edu/AS/Classics/jlsgloss.html
Bieber, M. (1934), Entwicklungsgeschichte der griechischen Tracht von der vorgriechischen Zeit bis zur römischen
Kaiserzeit, Berlin
Bieber, M. (1977), Ancient Copies, New York
Böhme-Schönberger, A. (1997), Kleidung und Schmuck in Rom und den Provinzen, Stuttgart
Croom, A. (2002), Roman Clothing and Fashion, Stroud/Charleston
Cunliffe, B. (1988), Greeks, Romans and Barbarians: Spheres of Interaction, London
Ferris, I.M. (2000), Enemies of Rome. Barbarians through Roman Eyes, Stroud
Goldman, N. (1994), “Reconstructing Roman clothing” in: J.L. Sebesta/L. Bonfante (eds), The World of Roman
Costume, Madison, 231-237
*Goubitz, O./van Driel-Murray, C./Groenman-van Waateringe, W. (2001), Stepping Through Time, Archaeological
Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800, Zwolle
Hope, T. (1962), Costumes of the Greeks and Romans, New York
Houston, M.G. (2003), Ancient Greek, Roman & Byzantine Costume, London
Johnston, H.W. (1903), The Private Life of the Romans, Chicago
Kleiner, D.E.E. (1977), Roman Group Portraiture: The Funerary Reliefs of the Late Republic and Early Empire. New
York
Köb, A./Riedel, P. (eds) (2005), Kleidung und Repräsentation in Antike und Mittelalter (Mittelalterstudien des Instituts
zur Interdisziplinären Erforschung des Mittelalters und seines Nachwirkens, Paderborn 7), Munich
Koch, G./Sichtermann, H. (1982), Römische Sarkophage, Munich
*Kockel, V. (1993), Porträtreliefs stadtrömischer Grabbauten, Mainz
Lepper, F./Frere, S.S. (1988), Trajan’s Column, Gloucester
Pausch, M. (2003), Die römische Tunika. Ein Beitrag zur Peregrinisierung der antiken Kleidung, Augsburg
Pflug, H. (1989), Römische Porträtstelen in Oberitalien, Mainz
Polaschek, K. (1969), Untersuchungen zu griechischen Mantelstatuen. Der Himationtypus mit Armschlinge, Berlin
Sebesta, J.L./Bonfante, L. (eds) (1994), The World of Roman Costume, Madison
Sichel, M. (1980), Costume of the Classical World. London
Swift, E. (2003), Roman Dress Accessories, Oxford
Symons, D.J. (1987), Costume of Ancient Rome, London
*Van Driel-Murray, C. (1986), “Shoes in Perspective” in: Landesdenkmalamt Baden-Württemberg, Studien zu den
Militärgrenzen Roms III: 13. internationaler Limeskongreß, Aalen 1983: Vorträge, Stuttgart, 139-145
Van Driel-Murray, C. (1999), “And did those feet in ancient times... . Feet and shoes as a material projection of the
self” in P. Baker/C. Forcey/S. Jundi/R. Witcher (eds) TRAC 98. Proceedings of the 8th Annual Theoretical Roman

9
Archaeology Conference, Oxford, 131-140
*Wilson, L.M. (1924), The Roman Toga, Baltimore
Wilson, L.M. (1938), The Clothing of the Ancient Romans, Baltimore

10

You might also like