Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Shahi Report 6A
Shahi Report 6A
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, SHAH/ EXPORTS
UCTION
Garment Industry is a well-organized enterprise and is among the best in the world. It constitutes
of designerj , manufacturers, exporters, suppliers, stockiest, and wholesal~rs. In~ian Gar~~nt
Industry ha carved out a niche in the global markets and earned a reputation for its durability,
quality and beauty. Today's changing consumer preferences - buying branded apparel and
fashion accessories, major boom in retail industry, people shopping at department and discount
stores, shopbing malls, with rising disposable incomes, government policy focu~ed on fast-track
textile ~xpot growth, and ambitious goals have created several investment opportunities in India.
My trallll11g m Shahi Exports Pvt. Ltd., Bangalore helped me gain know ledge in garment
man~facturipg proce~s in and out fully in detailed manner. I went through various departments
startmg from the fabric procuring to the shipment delivery to the buyer.
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Th"is report ~s a brief of the processes of apparel manufacturing that I ob.served and learnt during
my stay at Spahi exports. · .
STATEMENT OF STUDY
To study aJ ut the garment manufacturing process and how it is being presented to the buyer.
SIGNIFI~CE OF STUDY
This study will provide me with an in-depth knowledge of the production of garment from the
fabric and /~rims procuring to the final dispatch by using latest technology and also the
management process of manufacturing.
CTI[ ES OF STUDY
8 SEWING
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9 FINISHING AND PACKAGING
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j 10 MERCHANDISING '
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11 TRIMS/ ACCESSORY DEPARTMENT
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12 INFRASTRUCTURE
55 /!t
13 FABRIC STORE AUDIT
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14 I.E.
64 'I,
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15 · . -
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FABRIC TESTING
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PPAREL INTERNSHIP, SHAH1 EXPoirrs
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2.02.2
COMPANY PROFILE
"Be the glo~al best in bringing delight to human life by weaving dreams of fashion & feelings of
comfort"
sMr.1Harish. · & h"is mother, Mrs. Sarla Ahuja are the driving force behm
UJa
. d th'is group · Mrs.
tha Ahu~a laid the foundation of the group with a small shop with one machine for tailor made
c ot es. Smee th h . d r has now
grown to become
I en, t ere has been no stopping for the family. The same en ea~ou
one of the largest export houses in India.
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The compa
ny now stands th
garments which al . e ~roud owner of manufacturing facilities for wove~ and knits
quality woven & : . include high fashion garments manufacturing 3 million pie es of high
whooping over 2 . ~ts per month and catering to all segments in th_e _app8:el industry. A
of knits & 2 . . null~on square feet. for woven/knits it manufac~ures I O:Ulhon piece~ ~er month
product nulho~ pieces per month of woven. Shahi is recogruzed for its excellen9e m quality;
range, service and reliability.
Maintaining qua11·t Y and time
· ly d e11venes
· · are· given
· . rt ance. It has m-
. h~use
labo. t utmost rrnpo testing
1 •
· •
nd ra ory usmg the STM standards and Quality Control Department. Systems based on research
a stringent buyer requirements the company has arrived at Standard Shahi Quality ; ystem.
2.2. I Mission
E
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• Be the most preferred Competitive Global supplier of Apparel
Be the most preferred employer in the industry
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• Be a learning•organization to improve and excel
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2.2.2 Values Iii,
• Customer Delight I~
• Integrity and Ethics i"
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• Respect for human values t
• Nurturing Human Talent •
• Continuous Improvement
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2.3AWARDS
Best exporters Award from AEPC
• Best Vendor of the year rated by Wal-Mart/JC Penney/ Target
• Best Manufacturing facilities rated by NIFT.
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. fuJ
• H&r-h
• Eddib Bauer
• UC~
• Arro ~
1
• Tommy Hilfiger
• A&~
• Espirit
• JC±Pienny
• Wa art •
• Am ican Eagle
The ent~ e ~?ahi organization works on a single ERP system, which unifies all the departments
working. T~ s not only makes them one of a kind but also gives the superiority of efficient
functioning.
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This allows them to typically handle the manufacturing, logistics, and distribution, inventory,
shipping, i voicing, and accounting for a company. This also synchronizes their business
activities 1· ,e sales, delivery, billing, production, inventory management, quality managemen~,
th
and human resources management. Their today's structure is in complete contrast to eir
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yesteryears'
not ·. departm . have given·way to modules like CRM, SRM, SCM 1nd EPM, to
. ents: which
th I
on1Y give efficient services to their customers but also to deal effectively wi suiliers.
Their. ERP functionmg
· · .is cross-functional and enterprise wide. All functional
. depa ments that
are mvo lved m· operations · or production are integrated in · one syst em. I n add'1hon
· to 1
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manufa~turing, warehousirlg, logistics, and Information Technology, this al irlcludes
accountmg, human resources, marketing, and strategic management. The atomizati n level that
they have ir1 Shahi is at par with the best of the best in garment iridustry. The t ·chnological
ad~antage with Shahi is what makes unique, with an improved business performan e. Through
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their Enterprise Resource Plannirlg, they have amalgamated their company's informa ion systems
have designed it to bind more closely, all their company functions including humap resources, I
inventories and financials while simultaneously linking the company to customers an~ vendors.
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2.7.1 Manufacturing
An innovative team under mature irlfrastructure is the pride of Shahi in fashion 1dustry. For
Knits, they got 21 state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities spread across Delhi, \ Bangalore,
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Tirupur with whooping 15,000 machirles irlstalled. It is supported by the late; automatic
spreaders & CAD/CAM cutting and the best of the micro-process controlled sew· g machines
with under-bed trimmers. The start-of-the-'art sewirlg facilities with online checkinlf at critical
points coupled with stri.Q.gent quality controls at finishirlg section meeting the standfds of their
buyers. The facilities are of most modem with a total build up area over 4 million Sfl. ft. spread
across India to support to manufacturing.
2. 7.2 Embroidery
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They are ?ne of the largest irlstallations of Barudan over 90 machines each of 20 h9ads capable
of producmg 9 ~olours, ,prod_ucing _I ~illio~ stitches p~r day. Also new embroidery t,1ddition can
support ~equencmg and special operations m the machme, with the above capacity t~6y can turn-
around time of an order can be shorter.
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2. 7.3 Washing
They have state-of-the art front loaded micro-process controlled washing facil~ties with a
expertise of washirlg for. various brands like Abercrombie, Replay etc., they can' do tl,-e following
washes in fabric & garment form
• Enzyme wash
• Acid wash
• , Potassium permanganate wash
• Aged wash
• Vintage wash
• Rubber ball wash
• Tea stain wash
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They got t e expertise & experience in the last 3 decades t h
. [ beadwork, they can handle over s million pie o andle the mOS C01t1pl1eated
sequencmg .
t
over India. . ces per month and spread across
2. 7.5 Manu I/Hand Embroidery
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They have -house capacity of hand emb;oidery to handle big ord
't They haveI te latest printing fucilities, which can produce over 12 colour
· d wit· h d"1g1ta
They are a s equ1ppe
2. 7..7 Training
· 11a boratory printing to turn around the samples
90 ,000faster.
meters a day·
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Their most ·aluable asset is their Human Resource. It is imperative to develop people to take on
the challen es of future. They believe that this can be achieved only by continuously honing
competenci s and developing individuals to take on higher roles and greater responsibilities.
Businesses J0<iay have to be ready to compete. Improved transportation and communication has
shrunk the ~ orld. The talk is now of "global pressures", and "world market requffements".
Improving J roductivity is the name of the game. Shahi provides focused learning experiences to
the AssocJtes, .which stimulate, support and develop theff potential into work related
competenciJs. Multi Skill training, Seminars and Workshops on relevant topics groom the
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Associates · ed compet enc1es.
I requrr
on .
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2.8 QUALITY
Pre-Producl on activities . .
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Procbss development department ana lysts
· IS· sues a file. to Quality
er GSDand to
Production.
be used for bulk
• Sug~ests batch layout/folders/guides and ergonomic as P
• prodµction
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Changes . sugges ted to the buyer for improved quality /
. design I construct10n
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product1v1
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2.8.1 Fa n [' .J . •
rofessionally trame d manpo wer.. nd dry
• 4 Pomt sy stem for fabric
. inspection b~ p
·ous fabnc parame ters like shrinkage, sp!fally, wet . a
h I se lab for testmg van
• In ?u to washing etc.
rub j colour fastness
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• Lot wise GSM / Shade continuity cards maintained in cutting section.
2.8.3 Sewing
They are catering to the customer in Northern America, Europe especially Italy whfre ey::
the trend setters and close to the fashion and quick delivery subject to the changes as the or .
progress with innovative ideas & design in-pllts. · th
?.9.3 Retail
[
Research
]
•
Product
Dev~lopment
[ Sampling
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Bulk production
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3.3.l Research
-The design team of the industry also develops swatch cards for some buy rs based on
the forecasted trend.
3.3.2Product Development
- The CAD designs from the buyer provides specification based on the colour, weave attem, yarn
count, GSM etc., -1
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- The PD team has several standards for colour like Pantone Book and CS! _ c S .
International S andard. our. o U!Jon
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Quotation for< eveJaping the fabric is received from several mills with samJ)le.
The best
SEPL suit«
by the vendorteam.
sc urcing is selected based on price, quality, quantity, capacity, lead time, terms ;ith
- On requ/
buyer receiving the sample yardage with an average lead time of IO days the fabric is tested for
ements.
- The test reports are sent to the merchant and then to buyer for approval. .
- On approvk1 of the merchant it is sent to BI team for approval. . ,
- On rejecti~n of the fabric /comments received on the fabric from merchant or buyer the supplier
is requested to rework on the fabric and send it back for approval, this continues until the
merchant anlibuyer approves on the fabric. ,
- Once apprlved ihe sourcing team is advised to relea~e the cost for sampling to the supplier.
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- Sample yj dage costs one and a halftimes bulk fabric cost or flat 250-300
3.3.4Bulk P~rchase
-On order confirmation, Fabric Sourcing rec~ives ~rder Confirmati~n Meet~g details
from; marketing via email which includes fabnc quality, colour, quantity, fabnc content,
count, construction, fabric weight and any special instructions, plan cut date(PCD),
gamient delivery additional processes, Movex item no, style no.
_ F.Jric Sourcing team will receive Pl from supplier via e-mail and Fabric sourcing team
will teview PI if it is as per the requirement same will be f~rwarded to market mg, If PI is
not Is per the requirement information will be sent to supplier to rework on PI
-Mel hants provide item-wise details to the fabric sourcing team and Update FOB (First
of Bilk) submission date and finalise bulk flow in CRM module of MO VEX.
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FOB (First of Bulk). submission
. : :?e supp_Her will forward First of bulk to Sourcing and Sourcing team will Verify the
~I~Ial quality ~nd colour, if it meets the requirement, it will be (orwar~ed to qiarketing, if
it. is not meet mg the requirement, Sourcing team will request supplier to ~esubmit the
First of bulk ]
· - Supplier will provide I 00mtrs fabric in each colour for size_ set and ?ther p leprodu~tion
activities to the merchant along with a card which has all the mfonnati~n fro , location to
the quantity received; ·· ' ·
. -After bulk production of fabric gets completed, QC review will happen · supplier's
place where fabric is checked based on different parameters. Once QC is a proved the
· Supplier prepares the packaging list for the final goods.
-If QC review does not happen in supplier place then inspection report i sent from
supplier to the fabric sourcing team. ·
-Once the packaging list is ready Shahi receives the invoice from supplier fi r the goods
which are ready for dispatch. Fabric Sourcing team takes the delivery of the fabric once
the payment issues are cleared. , .
3.3 PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR BUYER NOMINATED SUPPL! R
I Sampling
Bulk production
-Buyer directly advices the Colour standards to the mill with the infc miation to
• marketing •team who in tum will inform our Fabric Sourcing team via email.
-Fabric sourcing team does fabric cost negotiation with ·supplier (with pro·
and gets sampling fabric sirpultaneously. . ·
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SAMPLING
4.1 INTRODUCTION
It is thefmiJ section of garment manufuctUring process. This section is used for making sample
garment for/approval and pattern sets for bulk production when needed. The main objective of
this department is to book consumption of fabric, create samples, sizes set and check whether the
bulk produclion of the particular style is possible in-house or not.
• · The Lpling process till the sealer sample is done at the central sampling department.
• IEi
• Pla
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• CAti
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• Cuttrng
. wasfing.
• Ironr g
• Pac~ing
5. Sa ple production
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6. Qua rity checkmg
. of samples produced
4 •3 ~TAGES OF SAMPLING
4 .3.1 Proto Sample _
a) It is made for style approval and checking the feasibility of the produc ion.
b) ' Same types of materials are used, with same quality. Howeve, substitute
materials of same quality can be used like fabric and trims.
c) Pattern is made in the CAD.
d) 3 pieces are made as proto sample.
e) One piece is sent to merchandiser and another one to the buyer.
f) The comments are received by the merchandiser from the buyer.
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) Approval for pilot run is done after comments of buyer.
4 •4 COM_ ( : : : ~ : : : : : : ~ : ; t t i ~ g starts.
Loose stitc1 uneven width of stitch, down stitch, damaged piece (cut), uneven piping width,
uneven gathring, smoking defects, elastic defects, uneven neck bounding, bottom roping etc.
• Aft1 washing, the measurement of the gannent is checked before steam iron.
• Steam iron and measurement. ..
• App)oval of the sample, if not then corrections are made. ·
• AfteJ the approval Size-set samples (!pc for all sizes and 5 pcs. for base size) are made
alonk with GPT samples (2-3 pcs).
• The~ sewing is done along with button hole, button sewing and bar tack.
• MeaL rement by QC
• Stea /
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• After that, Pre-production meeting is called between the sampling department, IED, PM
Quality in charge, Q.A, Merchandiser etc. '
• Then the buyer approval report is sent to the cutting department for pilot cutt' g. ...,
• Batch setting ·is done. '1
• Approval by the Quality Manager. --.,
• Approval by nominated QA
• Approval by buyer QA .J
• Shrinkage report
• Pattern production report
• Size set report
• Trial piece report
• Issued sa·mple report
• Lab Dips Report
• Cutting report- daily/ monthly
• Daily batch-wise production report
• Monthly buyer-wise production report
• Sample delivery details monthly
• Delivery challan for garments
• Sample audit sheet
• Indent by merchants· Sam . le ind . .
. d . · P ent contams garment details, style details t ims details·
size etails etc. ' '
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9 r e cut parts are loaded into the sewing l~es. Sample In charge
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f he trims are collected from the sampling department
Feeding Helper
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sub store.
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11 ~amples are stitched as per the given instructions. Sewing Operator
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WASHING
S.l _SAMPLES RECEIVED FROM MERCHANT, SAMPLING
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Washing will receive samples in the form of Proto, SMS, Fit & PP sample from the ,
merchandiser & fabric from . sourcing departments respectively. The objective washing is '
different for each department._Th1s is done ~y sending sample ~ash Requisition fo1 al~ng With I
. t~e ~amples sent by the sampling department t~ _t~e merch~nd1ser who enters _the df~ails of the
• kmd of ·wash required. The sample requ1s1t1on details shall be recorded m sample J
inward/outward register by the washing (sampling) supervisor. Supe~isor shal~. ~tudy the
washing requirements mentioned in requisition note bought by the coordmator. If e 1s able to
meet the washing requirements then he shall proceed further. If supervisor not able to meet the
requirements then he shall consult superiors for further action. Based on the type f wash and
other requirements, washing recipe shall be formulated. Recipe shall be record d in recipe
register by the washing manager. .
5.2 WASHING
In knits the washing is of mainly following kinds namely sofl-ener wash, bio wash, m chine wash
or dip & dry wash. ·
The wet material is placed in the extractor, which has a wall of perforated met i generally
stainless steel. The internal drum rotates at high speed thus throwing out the water . ntained iri .
it. The use of hydro extractor significantly reduces the energy required to dry any ma erial. _
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The tum~~e dryer used is closed cycle dryer (the condensing tumble dryer). The clo ed drier has
the prov1s1on of steam from the boiler which makes the consignment dry. . ·
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5.6 APPR I VAL OF BUYER FOR BULK WASH
The PP sa le after wash is sent to the buyer for approval. If the buyer approves of the quality
then it is an · dication for bulk wash.
The proces of bulk wash starts with central planning blocking the capacity of washing
department terms of Kg. This process happens in 3 months advance. The central planning
keeps a record of the capacity available inhouse and the washing priority is set depending upon
the PCD, or er quantity & ex-factory date. Washing receives weekly washing plan from Factory
planning. D ily bitting plan is received from concerned floor. Based on the plan washing priority
is finalized.
Meanwhile /he size set samples are made in the preproduction stage and are sent to the washing
department ~ ith sample wash Requisition form filled by the Floor PPE incharge as per the tech
pack instructions.
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5.9 APPR0VAL OF BUYER QA
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The sampJ are then reviewed by the QA and in case it is not approved then rework is done to
achieve the r esired results. This recipe might be changed and becomes the final recipe for bulk
wash. .
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5.10 PILOrl f WASH
Based on th buyer requirement and the preproduction feedback the reci~e for pilot was.h shall be
set by the wrshing manager. 50 kgs of bits from first of the bulk & 30 kgs of garments from fir st
lot producti1n shall be taken for pilot wash. Hydro extraction&drying shall be done as per buyer
requrrement
· • card md1catmg
A Job . . . the process parameters s1gne • d bY the was hing manager shall
be d'15P1ayed on the machine. The dispatch supervisor shall fold & store the b't1s / gannents at the
allocatedracks. 20 % random checking of the garments will happen for hand feel purpose. Onhe
each swatch shall be cut from two tagged washed bits and pasted along wit. h be fore wash
. swatc
by th e QC · mts of after wash sample shall be forwarded to la b to get a ft er wash shrmkage.
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5.11 RECEiVE PANELS /GARMENTS FROM BITTING /SEWING·
Concerned floor shall send the bits/garments for washing along with IOM signed b the factory
managers with details like quantity, item no., colour& buyer.
Bits and garments are received along with DC/IOM details and are recorded in th floor wise
inward/outward register by the dispatch supervisor. To be washed bits are stored · designated
racks by the dispatch supervisor. To be washed garments are securely stored · the bag at
garment store.
The quality is checked randomly before washing. If any discrepancies are found, th concerned
unit is informed about the same. Two before wash bits shall be randomly taken fronf the lot and
one swatch shall be cut from each bit. Two before wash swatches shall be pasted on swatch
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(shade) card.The same shall be compared with the after-wash bits to understand t e effect of
washing.
Washing
Hydro Extractor
Tumble Drier
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PRINTING
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Colour separation using software
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Design printed on "positive film" ·
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I Prepare the screen
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I Expose the screen
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Washing in water
I Printing
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· Curing the pctnel /garment
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