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Petal Wrap Dress SIZES PREM - 4

A sweet and simple reversible dress for every season


Contents
This table of contents is “clickable” - simply

Website click on the item you want to read, and it will

twigandtale.com take you right there.

Pattern Modifications & Inspiration


Click on Petal Wrap Dress on the
Credits  ..........................................................  3
twigandtale.com blog menu for even
more options. Before You Begin
Icons  .............................................................  4
Facebook Group
Join our group to share your photos and Sewing Summary Print Sheet  .................  4
give & receive advice from other Twig +
Print Only What You Need  ......................  4
Tale pattern sewers.
facebook.com/groups/twigandtale Seam Allowance   ........................................  4

Navigation Bar & Quick Links  .................  4


Facebook Page
facebook.com/twigandtale
Where Imagination Runs Wild

Instagram Views
Tag your photos using #twigandtale
Options  ........................................................  6
We’d love to see your creations!
instagram.com/twigandtale Pathfinder + Animal Options  ..................  6

Pinterest Fun Little Pattern Hacks! 7


pinterest.com/twigandtale
Gather Supplies
Twitter Suggested Fabrics  .....................................  8
twitter.com/taletwig
Measuring for a Good Fit  .........................  9
Blog Size & Measurements Chart  ...................  10
twigandtale/blog
Fabric Requirement Chart  ......................  11

Mailing List Finished Garment Measurements  .........  11

Sign up for exclusive pattern release How to Adjust Sizes for a Custom Fit   ..  12
notifications, inspiration and reads.
Scroll to the bottom of the homepage at Upcycle Inspiration
www.twigandtale.com to sign up Making a Garment from Recycled
Materials  ......................................................  13
Email
hello@twigandtale.com Print + Assemble Pattern
Paper Sizes  ..................................................  14
TE R MS OF US E Using Layers  ...............................................  14
This pattern and its instructions are protected by
Printer Settings   .........................................  15
copyright law. Please do not email copies to your friends
or family; instead, refer them to twigandtale.com so
Troubleshooting  ........................................  15
they can purchase a copy for themselves. I rely on the
honesty of my customers to support my shop, so thank Assembling Pattern Pieces   .....................  15
you in advance for respecting my copyright.
Which Pages to Print  ................................  15
Small home-based handmade businesses selling items
on Etsy or similar are welcome to sell products made Page Assembly Diagram  ...........................  16
from this pattern, but I do kindly ask that you reference
Twig + Tale somewhere within your product description.
Twig + Tale Video Guides
This pattern has accompanying video
Credits guides!  ..........................................................  17

View Illustrations: Jessica Van Slooten Sewing Instructions      18


Pattern Grading: Jacqui Peterson
Cover Image: Ruth Phillips Share Your Wrap Dress With Us

Other images throughout the tutorial are Now you have an awesome Petal Wrap
Dress- it is time to show it off!  ..............  26
courtesy of the wonderful group of ladies
who helped to test this pattern. Inspiration
Julie Rigaud, Sarah Deutsch, Ummul Images from the Testing Team ...............  27
Masakin, Lois Windsor, Carrie Collier,
Brittany Stephenson, Caroline Devonport, Sewing Summary
Laurie Roberts, Nicole Bours, Sasha Petal Wrap Dress  ....................................... 30
Kamaruzzaman, Anne Lawson, Evelyn
Glossary of Sewing Terms  .......................  32
Waldner, Millie Graham, Vilma Roldan,
Samantha Cuthbertson, Bobbi Wicorek,
Jo Bredin, Melissa Nonnemaker-Smale,
Temeaka Tate, Genevieve Nepveu, Lucille
Joy Verdey, Danielle Boehlig, Kristie
Comarmond, Maartje Emmers, Kerryn
Wilson, Sharon Aguilar, Amanda Cassy,
Alexandra Desbruslais, Liz Joffrion, Andie
McDonald, Sonja Den Biggelaar, Danielle The Petal Wrap
Carney, Rachel Baldacchino, Lucy Merchant, Dress is super cute
Kristin Bedell-Hustedt, Shirley Tan, Jess
paired with
Ross, Krysten McGillivray, Grace Smith,
Leanne Steel, Kiaraleigh Lambkin, Kristen our Twig + Tale
Prystupa, Jessica Gillespie, Erin Krusic-
Tree Climbers or
Golub, Melisa Harry, Tori Priest, Heather
Brett, Pawinee Dodson, Ruth Phillips, Kim Pixie Shorts!

Angel, Hannah Mincey, Sarah Beasley,


Tabitha Woodard, Becky Petty, Alexis Clark,
Jo Benayoun, Jocelyn Buggie, Angela Schade.

Many thanks ladies!


Before You Begin
Icons
Helpful tips.

Click on the bold green word to navigate directly to the page indicated.

Sewing Summary Print Sheet


Save a tree! This tutorial is designed to be viewed on an electronic reading device such as an iPad or
phone while sewing. Although you can print the entire document, included at the end of this pattern
is a handy “Cheat Sheet” with the basic instructions in an easy-print format. You may consider
printing out this summary to store with your pattern pieces.

Print Only What You Need


Use the layers feature to select only the size you need, and print only the pages you require for your
desired option. This is further explained in the Printing Instructions.

Seam Allowance
The seam allowance for this pattern is 3/8” (1cm) unless otherwise stated, and is already included.

Navigation Bar & Quick Links


The “Quick Link” section of the navigation bar at the bottom of each page helps you easily navigate
to the most used sections of the tutorial. For example, if you wish to go to the contents page, simply
hover over the word “CONTENTS” until you see the little hand appear - click on it, and there you are!

On the right-hand side you will see the Pattern Name. When you click on this, it will take you to the
Twig + Tale blog, where you can view all blog posts written about this pattern.

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Where Imagination Runs Wild
I love a classic wee dress on a little one - add in reversibility and the ability
to mash with other Twig + Tale patterns to create a dress or tunic for any of the
four seasons, and my heart just sings!

Whether it’s a cool and breezy linen version for summer or a contrasting version
in wintery wool with a pixie hood and paired with tights (so cute on sweet chunky
legs!), this dress is bound to deliver ... and those teeny-tiny sizes are perfectly
delightful and practical for a special baby shower gift too!

I hope this sweet wee dress becomes one of your go-to simple-sew patterns.
Lisa xox

Image by Jessica Gillespie

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Views
Options

Front Tunic Length Front Back

Create the looks below by using the flutter sleeves, collar or hood pattern pieces from your
Twig + Tale Pathfinder Vest, Pixie Pea Coat , Animal Vest or Animal Coat
Mashes with other T+T Patterns

Flutter Sleeves Collar

Animal Hood Round Hood Pixie Hood

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Fun Little Pattern Hacks!
Now that you have made some awesome Petal Wrap dresses - it’s time to spread your wings!
These simple modifications to your Petal Wrap dress can create all kinds of new looks...

Simply click on the symbol for Petal Wrap Dress blog posts, on the Twig + Tale Blog

Image by Kristie Cormarmond Image by Genevieve Nepveu Image by Jo Benayoun

A D D A FLU T T E R A DD A RUF F LE A DD B IA S B IN DING

Image by Jo Benayoun Image by Jess Ross Image by Krysten McGillivray

A D D TIE S TO FA ST E N A DD A PIX IE H O O D A DD A N A N IMA L HOOD

Image by Rachel Baldacchino Image by Angela Schade Image by Pawinee Dodson

AD D P I P I N G A DD PO C K ET EMB RO IDER Y A DD C O LO UR B LOCK

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Gather Supplies
Suggested Fabrics
Exterior: Mid weight wovens: quilting cotton, linen, light-medium weight wools, corduroy, denim, chambray.
Up-cycled shirts and vintage sheets also make lovely petal dresses.

Lining: As this garment is reversible you can use the same fabrics for each side. Other lining options could be lawn or rayon.

Other Supplies & Notions


• Bias binding (optional) 3-4.5 yds (2.5-4m) depending on size
• Spool of coordinating thread
• Piping (optional)
• Buttons or snaps

• Cord elastic (or elastic hair ties!)

Image by Rachel Baldacchino Image by Kim Angel Image by Tori Priest

Petal Wrap Dress 8


Measuring for a Good Fit
Have your child stand up straight with their arms by their sides. They should not hold their breath
while being measured.

Chest

Measure directly
under the arms at
Waist
the fullest part of the
chest. This is usually Make a circle with the
right at the level of tape measure and slowly
the armpits. close the circle until it sits
at the narrowest point of
the waist. This is generally
around the belly button,
but everyone is different.

Hip

Make the tape measure


into a circle around the
Height
fullest part of the hips and
slide it down, easing it Stand the child against
out slowly until the tape a wall with bare feet and
measure drops off. Just heels flat. Mark the top
before it drops off is the of the head on the wall,
fullest part. You may have and then measure from
to do it a few times to get the mark to the floor.
an accurate measurement.

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Size & Measurements Chart
Check the child’s measurements against the measurements in the size chart to get the best fit. Please do NOT choose the size based on age - rather, measure
and go by the correct size. These sizes are based on ATSM standard measurements and may NOT correspond to typical ready-to-wear sizes.

If your child’s chest and height measurements fall under two different sizes, you can easily alter the length. The finished garment measurments on the
following page will give you a guide of how much length to add. Use the custom fit instructions on page 12 for further explanation.

Size Prem NB 0-3 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24 3 4

Child’s Chest 15 ½” 16” 16 ½” 17 ½” 18” 18 ½” 19 ½” 20 ½” 21” 22”


39.3cm 40.5cm 41.9cm 44.4cm 45.7cm 47cm 49.5cm 52.1cm 54cm 57cm
Child’s Waist 15” 16” 18” 18.5” 18.75” 19” 19.5” 20” 20.5” 21”
38.1cm 40.64cm 45.7cm 47cm 47.6cm 48.3cm 49.5cm 50.8cm 52.1cm 53.3cm
Child’s Hip 15.5” 17” 17” 18” 18.5” 19” 20” 21” 22” 23”
39.37cm 43.18cm 43.2cm 45.7cm 47cm 48.3cm 50.8cm 53.3cm 56.1cm 58.4cm
Child’s Height 17-19” 19.5-21.5” 22-23.5” 24-26.5” 27-27.5” 28-30.5” 31-32.5” 35.5” 38” 41”
43-49cm 50-55cm up to 60cm 60-68cm 69-72cm 73-78cm 79-83cm 90cm 97cm 105cm

Image by Brittany Stephenson Image by Jo Benayoun Image by Sonja Den Bigelaar

Petal Wrap Dress 10


Fabric Requirement Chart
You will need the following amounts for both the exterior and the lining fabrics. You may need more if matching plaids/checks or if you have a directional
fabric.

Fabric Width PREM NB 0-3 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24 3 4

110cm / 43” inches 17.7 17.7 19.7 19.7 23.6 23.6 31.5 31.5 39.4 39.4

cm 45 45 50 50 60 60 80 80 100 100

132cm / 52” inches 15.7 15.7 17.7 17.7 21.7 21.7 25.6 25.6 27.6 27.6

cm 40 40 45 45 55 55 65 65 70 70

Finished Garment Measurements


Sometimes it is handy to know how much “ease” there is in a pattern if trying to decide between sizes.
The following chart details the measurements of the finished garment.

Finished Garment Measurements PREM NB 0-3 3-6 6-9 9-12 12-18 18-24 3 4

Chest Measurement inches 16.5 17.7 18.9 19.7 20.5 21.3 22.1 22.9 23.7 24.5
(measurement taken with buttons fastened)
cm 42 45 48 50 52 54.1 56.1 58.2 60.2 62.2

Centre Back Length inches 11.3 12.3 13.3 14.3 15.2 16.3 17.2 18.2 19.2 20.8
( from neck seam to hem)
cm 28.7 31.2 33.7 36.3 38.7 41.3 43.7 46.3 48.7 52.8

Tunic Length inches 8.5 9.2 9.9 10.6 11.4 12.1 12.8 13.5 14.3 15.2
( from neck seam to hem)
cm 21.5 23.4 25.2 27 28.9 30.7 32.5 34.4 36.2 38.7

Petal Wrap Dress 11


How to Adjust Sizes for a Custom Fit
Children come in a wonderful variety of shapes and sizes. If the chest and height measurements
fall in different sizes, you can simply add or subtract length fom your pattern using the lengthen/
shorten lines supplied.

TO LE NGTHE N

1. Cut across the “lengthen/shorten” lines on the front and back paper pattern pieces. Lay the cut
pattern pieces onto a piece of paper.

2. Slide the pieces apart until they form a gap equal to the amount you wish to add to the length cut
add in redraw
(green drawing). Use the Finished Garment Measurement Chart on the previous page for an
indication of how much length to add. Tape the pattern pieces onto the paper to secure.

3. Smooth out the curve on either side of the pattern piece if required to create the new pattern
piece (blue drawing).

TO SH O RTEN

1. Cut across the “lengthen/shorten” lines on front and back paper pattern pieces:

2. Overlap the top piece over the bottom piece by the amount you wish to remove from the length
(green drawing). Use the Finished Garment Measurement Chart on the previous page for an
redraw
indication of how much length to remove. Tape the pieces together.
cut overlap
3. Smooth out the curve on either side of the pattern piece if required to create the new pattern
piece (blue drawing).

Petal Wrap Dress 12


Upcycle Inspiration
Making a Garment from Recycled Materials
Did you know? All Twig + Tale patterns are designed to be made from upcycled materials!
Here at Twig + Tale HQ, we are proudly passionate about recycling, starting as a small boutique making
one-of-a-kind garments from upcycled materials under the name of Big Little.

We hope to encourage and inspire you to enjoy that same satisfaction of making something truly exquisite
from discarded textiles. Here are some ideas on how to make your garment from upcycled materials -
saving the planet and your pocket.

100% Wool blanket - look for finer blankets rather


than the super thick ones; otherwise you may have
issues turning through the shoulders. Alternatively,
you could use thick fabric for the back along with
lighter fabrics for the front to keep the bulk down.
Yarn - for embroidery details.
Buttons - cut from old garments.
Beautiful hand-embroidered tablecloth - so
stunning for a feature dress, or use sparingly as a
collar or a pocket.
Vintage floral sheet - for lining.

Wool skirt or kilt - this one is pleated, and although


cut on the bias, it still yields an incredible amount
of fabric! Unpick the waistband and any other
stitching at the top of the skirt; then wash and
steam iron before cutting.

Wooden buttons - made from a small branch


that came from our beautiful native Pohutukawa
tree after a storm. Our tutorial on how to make
wooden buttons can be found here: http://www.
twigandtale.com/blogs/twig-and-tale-blog/
handmade-wooden-buttons

Jeans and wool trousers - work nicely although


there may only be enough fabric for a smaller size
or for colour-blocking. The original pockets could
be sewn on the outside of a garment as is. With
thoughtful placement when cutting the pattern
pieces, you may also be able to use the original
seams and hems as a feature.

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Print + Assemble Pattern
Paper Sizes
You can print out the pattern pieces on your home You will need the latest version of

printer using either US Letter paper (8 ½ x 11”) or A4 Adobe Acrobat Reader. If you do not

paper. have it, you can download it


free here:
https://get.adobe.com/reader/
otherversions/

Using Layers
This pattern includes LAYERED pattern pieces, which allows you to choose only the sizes you wish
to print. In ACROBAT READER, click on the layers icon (highlighted with a circle in the image below)
while the file is open. Click on the eyeballs to turn size layers on or off. Be sure to leave the bottom
layer “Pages & Info” turned on.

Print the first page of the PATTERN PIECES and ensure the 1” or 2cm square scale check boxes are
correct before printing the remainder of the pattern pages.

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Printer Settings
Your printer needs to be set on “Actual Size” to prevent it from scaling the pages incorrectly. You do
not need to print the entire document - select only the pages you require from the chart below.

Troubleshooting Which Pages to Print


Most issues resolve themselves by printing from Pages Instructions
a desktop or laptop. Printing from an iPad or Tutorial 1-35 Save a tree! Read on your
mobile device can produce irregular results. phone/tablet/laptop while
sewing rather than print!
Layers not showing up? Pattern Pieces 36-47 Print page 36 first and
1. Ensure that you are looking at the double check the scale
ACROBAT print menu, not the default print boxes are correct. Then
menu that pops up on your computer. go ahead and print the
remainder of the pages.
2. On a Mac, sometimes the file can get
“flattened” when you save it to your
desktop. Simply go to your downloads
folder and open it from there.

Assembling Pattern Pieces


Cut around the outer page rectangles (some people prefer to simply cut off the bottom edge and
right-hand edge of the rectangles in order to overlap the pages), and then using the Page Assembly
Diagram on the following page as a guide, arrange your pages, aligning the diamonds and corner
circles. Tape the pages together, and then cut out your pattern pieces.

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Page Assembly Diagram

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Twig + Tale Video Guides
This pattern has accompanying video guides!

Video Tutorials Page


https://www.twigandtale.com/pages/video-
tutorial-wrap-dress

Video Tutorials Page


https://www.twigandtale.com/pages/video-
tutorial-wrap-dress

Learn To Embroider

Learn the basics of hand embroidery to


embellish your handmade makes!

https://www.twigandtale.com/pages/
embroidery

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Sewing Instructions
Welcome!
Before we start - did you know there is a Twig + Tale Chat Group on Facebook? It is a great place to ask
questions if you need help along the way, and of course show off photos of your finished items. We look
forward to seeing you there! Link above not working? Copy and paste this instead:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/522332691240127/

Cutting Out Main Dress


Back Cut 1 exterior + 1 lining on the fold

Front Cut 2 exterior + 2 lining


as mirrored pairs

Elastic Button Loops Cut two 2.5” (6cm)


Alternatively you could fasten with snaps

Pocket (optional) Cut 1 exterior + 1 lining for each


pocket

If sewing the Tunic length you would need to adjust the


pocket position accordingly!

Cutting Out Optional Extras


If you own the Pathfinder Vest for Babies or Children
- you can mix and match the Flutter Sleeves and collar
with this dress! You can also use the hoods from the
Pixie Coat, Pathfinder Vest, Animal Coat or Animal
Vest.

Flutter Sleeve Cut 2 exterior + 2 lining on the


fold. You could also cut all sleeve
pieces from lining fabric if desired

Round Hood Cut 2 exterior + 2 lining, side hood


pieces as mirrored pairs

Cut 1 exterior + 1 lining hood


centre panel piece

Pixie Hood Cut 2 exterior + 2 lining as


mirrored pairs

Collar Cut 1 exterior + 1 lining


Image by Jocelyn Buggie

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1
Optional Pocket
If you would like to add optional embroidery to your
wee pocket, the time to do that is now, before you
start.

Twig + Tale Embroidery Collections are


the perfect accompaniment to these
wee pockets. Available here: http://
twigandtale.com/collections/embroidery

2 With right sides together, stitch the pocket pieces


together with a 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance, leaving a
gap for turning along the top edge.

3 Clip the corners to reduce the bulk once the pocket


is turned through.

Trim off half of the seam allowance around the


curve to help it sit nicely once turned through.

Press the seam open.

4 Turn the pocket right side out, and then using a


chopstick or something similar, smooth out the
edges from the inside to get a nice smooth curve
along the bottom edge of the pocket.

Tuck in the seam allowance of the turning hole and


press.

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5 Top-stitch along the top edge of the pocket with a
1/8” (3mm) seam allowance, sealing the turning hole
as you sew.

6 Align the top of the pocket with the placement line


on the front piece.

Top-stitch in place around the curved edges of


the pocket, backstitching at each end for added
strength.

7 If you are using snaps to fasten: These are added


later; however, ensure you have marked the
placement guides onto the right sides of your fabric.

If you are using elastic loops and buttons to fasten:


If you haven’t already done so, cut two pieces of
cord elastic to 2.5” (6cm) length (or as required for
your button size) and fold into a loop.

Position the loop 3/8” (1cm) down from the top


outer corner of the front edge. The raw edges of
the loop align with the raw edge of the front piece.
Baste using a ¼” (6mm) seam allowance.

8 Repeat for other front piece.

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9
With right sides together, sew the front and back
pieces together at the shoulders with a 3/8” (1cm)
seam allowance.

Press the seams open.

The exterior of your wee dress is now complete!


Time to start on the lining.

10 As this wee dress is reversible, you may wish


to add a pocket to the lining if you fancy.

Otherwise, simply repeat step 9 to sew the


lining pieces together.

11 If you have the Baby or Children’s Pathfinder Vest


pattern and wish to add some sweet flutter sleeves,
now is the time to add them.

Simply follow the instructions in the original pattern


to add them in the same manner.

Image by Melissa Nonnemaker-Smale

12 If you have the Baby or Children’s Pathfinder Vest,


Pixie Pea Coat, or animal upgrade and wish to add
either a round hood, pixie hood, collar, or animal
hood, now is the time to add it.

Simply follow the instructions in the original pattern


to add it in the same manner.

Image by Jess Ross

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13 Lay the outer and lining pieces right sides together,
matching all corresponding points.

NOTE: If you are using snaps, and you haven’t


marked the snap placement markers onto your
fabric already, stop and mark them on now!

If you are using a lightweight fabric, you may wish


to add a small piece of interfacing to the wrong
side of the fabric behind the placement markers for
added strength.

14 Double check that the seams at the shoulder are


aligned.

For the following step:

If using heavier weight fabric, you will need to use


an alternate (more advanced) technique to sew the
armholes together.

This is because heavier weight fabric will not easily


pull through the shoulder seams using the beginner
technique. It is not shown here in the photo tutorial
- rather we made a video especially for you in the
next step if you require it.

15 Start by sewing the neckline in step 16, and


then follow the steps in the video for sewing the
armholes. Join us again at step 17.

Video Tutorials Page


https://www.twigandtale.com/pages/video-
tutorial-wrap-dress

16 Sew the armholes together with a 3/8” (1cm) seam


allowance.

Sew the necklines together, pivoting at the top front


corners and continuing down to the notches on
each side (about halfway down the front).

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17 Clip the corners - be careful not to cut through your
stitching.

This helps to reduce bulk in these corners so they


look perfect when the dress is turned through.

18 Clip the curves and press the seams open.

This helps the curved edges to sit nice and flat when
the dress is turned through.

19 Turn the dress through by pulling the fronts


through the shoulders.

20 Bring one front piece towards the back as shown.

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21 To align the side seams, separate the two lining
pieces from the exteriors and then pin lining to
lining and exterior to exterior, right sides together.

22 Before sewing down the side seam, see the following


step for a pro tip.

Once you have basted in step 23, sew the entire


length of the side seam.

23
To get perfectly matching underarm seams,
baste these seams together where the lining
meets the exterior with a 1/4” (6mm) seam
allowance before you start the side seams in
the above step.

The armhole seams then won’t move as you


sew the side seam.

24 Repeat for the other side and press the seams open.

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25 In this step you will sew up the bottom hem.

In order to get your dress looking like the photo,


turn the dress wrong side out to place the right
sides of the bottom hem together, stuffing the rest
of the dress into the bundle as you go.

Stitch along the bottom hem, leaving a gap for


turning of approximately 4” (10cm), as shown by the
dotted line on the photo. If using thicker fabrics,
leave a longer gap. Clip the curves.

Turn the dress right side out.

26 Top-stitching (optional)
Top-stitch around the perimeter of the dress sealing
up the turning hole as you sew. You could also top-
stitch around the armholes if desired. If you choose
not to top-stitch, then hand stitch the turning hole
closed.

If you have vastly different weights of fabric, it is


suggested you use a walking foot (if you have one)
and pin closely before top-stitching. You may like to
simply top-stitch the front edges or not top-stitch at
all.

27
Interior Fastening
If closing with button and loop:
Sew a button onto the lining side seam, just under
the armhole (do NOT use the snap placement
markers as these will position the button too far
forward when using the loop).

If closing with snaps:


Apply snaps on the placement markers.

28
Exterior Fastening
If closing with button and loop:
Sew a button onto the exterior side seam, just under
the armhole.

If closing with snaps:


Apply snaps on the placement markers.

Congratulations on your new dress! Now it is time


to show it off - join the Twig + Tale Chat Group on
Facebook and share it with us!

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Share Your Dress With Us
Now you have an awesome Petal Wrap Dress- it is time to show it off!

#petalwrapdress #twigandtale

Facebook Group
Join our group and share your Petal Wrap dress photos.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/522332691240127/

Instagram
Tag us in your photos - we love to see your creations!

Pinterest
We also love finding images of your Petal Wrap dresses on Pinterest.

Pattern Modifications + Inspiration


Check out all the pattern hacks on the T+T Blog for ways to customise your next Petal Wrap
dress. Have you gotten creative and done something a little different with your dress? Share it
with us! Drop us an email at hello@twigandtale.com and we could feature it on the T+T blog.

Image by Ruth Phillips

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Inspiration
Images from the Testing Team #petalwrapdress #twigandtale

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Inspiration
Images from the Testing Team #petalwrapdress #twigandtale

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Inspiration
Images from the Testing Team #petalwrapdress #twigandtale

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Inspiration
Images from the Testing Team #petalwrapdress #twigandtale

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Inspiration
Images from the Testing Team #petalwrapdress #twigandtale

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Sewing Summary
Petal Wrap Dress

SEAM ALLOWANCE is 3/8” unless specified • Topstitch 1/8” (3mm) from top edge of pocket.
otherwise.
• Position pocket on outside of feature side of
exterior front piece (and/or in same position
P R E PAR E FA B R I C P I E C E S on lining).

• Cut out a set of pieces from exterior fabric • Top-stitch 1/8” (3mm) from curved edge of
and from lining fabric. pocket, backstitching at each end.

• Mark notches.
PR EPA R E O PTIO N A L LO O P FA STE N ER S
• For loop option: Cut two pieces of elastic 2.5”
(6cm). • Fold elastic pieces into loops.

• For pocket option: Mark pocket placement • Baste loops 3/8” down from top outer
on the outside of the front piece you wish corners of both front edges of main fabric
to feature (traditionally the wearer’s right). (not on lining pieces), raw edges together and
If you are also putting a pocket on the lining loop facing main body.
side, mark the placement in the same way.

• For snap option: Mark snap placement on SEW SH O ULDER SEA MS


right side of fabric, iron scraps of interfacing
• Sew exterior front and back pieces right sides
to wrong side at snap markings for
together at shoulder seams with 3/8” (1cm) SA.
reinforcement.
• Press seams open.

O P TI O NA L P O C KE T ( S) • Repeat with front and back lining pieces.

• Add optional embroidery or applique to


exterior of pocket. A DD O PTIO N A L EX TR A S F RO M PATH F IND ER
V EST, PIX IE PEA C OAT O R A N IMA L PATTERN
• Stitch pocket exterior and pocket lining right
sides together with 3/8” (1 cm) SA (seam • Baste flutter sleeves to arm openings of
allowance) – leave turning gap along top exterior.
edge.
• Baste hood, or collar to neckline of exterior.
• Clip corners, trim half of seam allowance
around curve.
J O IN EX TER IO R A N D LIN IN G
• Press seam open.
• Pin top of exterior and lining together,
• Turn right side out, smooth edges with matching up all corresponding parts, all
chopstick, tuck seam allowance in at turning extras tucked inside.
hole.
• Sew around neckline and halfway down front
• Press. edges (to notches) with 3/8” (1cm) SA.

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• Sew around armholes with 3/8” (1cm) SA.

• Clip corners and curves.

• Press seams open.

• Turn right side out by pulling fronts through


shoulder openings.

• Separate exterior fabric from lining at each


side seam, pin down side seam, matching
exterior front to exterior back and lining
front to lining back.

• Baste across underarm seams where exterior


and lining fabrics meet.

• Sew side seams with 3/8” (1cm) SA.

• Press seams open.

• Pin remaining raw edges of exterior and


lining right sides together at hems and
bottom curves of fronts (temporarily stuffing
rest of garment into a bundle).

• Sew with 3/8” (1cm) SA, leaving 4” (10cm)


turning gap.

• Clip curves, press seams open.

• Turn garment right side out, press.

FINI S HI NG TO U C H E S

• Close turning hole by hand if not top-


stitching.

• Top-stitch around perimeter of dress and


armholes (optional).

• Apply closures:

• Overlap front pieces as desired, sew


button to each side seam just under
armhole on sides opposite loops -- NOT
at snap placement markers
-or-

• Apply snaps at snap placement markers.

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Glossary of Sewing Terms make bunches when the project or garment is done.

Backstitch/Back tack Dart

Used at the beginning and end of a machine-sewn


A V shaped, tapered adjustment (usually a fold on
seam to anchor the seam in place; it involves a
the inside of the piece) to a pattern to allow for
couple of extra stitches back and forth.
more fullness in the bust area or less fullness in

Bar tack other areas (waist).

A group of closely sewn stitches (back and forth


Ease
from side to side a la zig zag) that is used to tack a
A way of sewing a length of fabric into a bit of
belt loop or similar item in place. Sometimes used in
a smaller space without resulting in gathers or
the point of a V to reinforce.
puckers.

Baste/basting
Edgestitch
Temporary stitching used to hold a sewing project
A stitch done a scant 1/8” from the folded or
in place that is removed when the permanent
seamed edge.
sewing is done. Basting can be done by hand or
by machine using a long stitch length without Facing
backstitching. Fabric sewn on the raw edge of a garment piece that
is turned under and serves as a finish for the edge
Blind hem stitch
as well.
Sewing stitch that is not meant to be seen on the
right side of the fabric, usually accomplished by Finish (an edge)
picking up one thread of the fabric at a time rather Turn under 1/4” and stitch, serge/overlock the
than going through the full fabric to make a stitch. edge, or other method of finishing the edge so it
The best finish is done by hand, but many sewing doesn’t unravel or cause a bulk problem.
machines come with a blind hem attachment, and
the manual is the best guide for how to use it to Fold line

produce virtually invisible hems. Many pattern pieces are placed on the fold of a
piece of fabric. This is the actual fold of the fabric
Casing off the bolt or a fold of your own creation; the goal
Fabric envelope of sorts for encasing elastic, a is to have a pattern piece that is cut out without a
drawstring, or similar material, usually along a centre seam.
waistline, cuff or hem.
Gather
Clip (curve) Gathering allows for making a long piece of fabric
An outside curve needs to be clipped to within a to fit with a shorter piece of fabric and also is a
breath of the seam line. For an inside curve, you can method of easing a seam to allow insertion of
either clip or cut very small notches (V shape) out sleeves and other rounded pattern pieces.
of the curve itself in order to have it lay flat and not Continues on next page...

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To gather a seam, two parallel lines are sewn on the Placket
right side of the fabric, a scant 1/4” apart. Long tails A V-shaped opening that is finished with a bias strip.
of thread are left for gathering. The bobbin threads
(on the wrong side of the fabric) are held on either Pleat

end of the seam and gently tugged, gathering the A fold in fabric that is either inverted or folded

fabric evenly on the threads. outward, is not sewn except on the top edge (as in a
skirt or slacks waistband), and provides decorative
Grain or functional fullness.
Direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the
selvage. Patterns have an arrow on them <-----> Stay stitch

indicating direction of the grain to assist in laying A line of stitching just inside the intended

out the pattern pieces correctly. permanent stitching line (seam line) on curved
edges that stabilizes and keeps the curve from
Hem distorting.
Fabric that is turned up on the lower edge of a
garment or sleeve to provide a finished edge. Stitch in the ditch

Often extra fabric is left in the hem with children’s Stitching in the ditch is sometimes used as a

clothing to allow for growth (especially skirts and method of understitching by stitching in the seam

trousers). itself (the ditch) in order to hold it down.

Inseam Tack

Seam inside the leg of pants that runs from the A temporary stitch to hold pieces together, usually

crotch to the hem. removed after final stitching.

Interfacing Top-stitch

Fabric used between layers of fabric to provide A sometimes decorative, sometimes functional

stabilization and form. Usually used in collars, cuffs, stitch that is usually 1/4” from the edge of a seam. It

plackets, some waistbands and pockets, and facings. is visible because it is done on the top of the item.

Notch Understitch

Usually, the notch is shown on Twig + Tale patterns Keeps a facing or lining from rolling onto the

with a T shape and should be matched on seams right side of a garment. After pressing the seam

when joining for sewing. allowance and facing away from the garment, stitch
through both a scant 1/8” from the seam. Some
Pivot people grade the seam allowance and facing/lining
To leave the needle in fabric, raise the presserfoot prior to stitching to eliminate bulk.
and turn the fabric at an angle. Then lower the
presserfoot and start sewing. Glossary adapted from thesewingdictionary.com

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Size Key
Size Preemie
Size Newborn
Size 0-3m
Size 3-6m
Size 6-9m

a
Size 9-12m
Size 12-18m
Size 18-24m
Size 3
Size 4

Symbol Key
grainline of fabric

notches indicate where two


pattern pieces are sewn together
or a button/snap placement

Snap placement guide


(not buttonholes)

Note: Seam allowances are included


3/8” (1cm) unless otherwise noted.

1 Inch
Scale Check 2cm
Scale Check
Size 4

b
Size 3

18-24m

12-18m

9-12m

6-9m

3-6m

0-3m

Newborn

Prem
Cut on fold
4
Size

3
Size

c
4m
18-2

8m
12-1

m
9-12

6-9m

3-6m

0-3m

born
New

Prem
d
e Lengt
Petal Wrap Tunic + Dress

Ba

f
Cut 1 Exterior on fold
Cut 1 Lining on fold

Seam allowance 3/8” (1cm)

© Twig +Tale 2018 All rights reserved

then or Shorten here

Tunic Length Cut Line

Prem

Newborn

0-3m
g
Dress Length Pocket Placement Line

Lengthen or Shorten here

Tunic Length Cut Line

Prem

Newborn

0-3m
Petal Wrap Tunic + Dress

h
Front
Cut 2 Exterior
Cut 2 Lining
Cut as mirrored pairs

Seam allowance 3/8” (1cm)

© Twig +Tale 2018 All rights reserved


i
Petal Wrap Tunic + Dress

Lined Poet
(Optional)
Cut 1 Exterior per pocket
Cut 1 Lining per pocket

If making a reversible dress you may wish


to sew a pocket on both the lining and the
exterior - in which case you would cut
two pocket sets

Seam allowance 3/8” (1cm)


© Twig +Tale 2018 All rights reserved
3-6m

6-9m

9-12m

12-18m

18-24m

Size 3

j
Size 4
3-6m

6-9m

9-12m

12-18m

18-24m

Size 3

k
Size 4
l

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