Theodore and Felicia The Little Bears

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Lovely Knit Creation

Theodore and Felicia the Little Bears
Theodore and Felicia are more than very good friends. They enjoy spending time together… watching
the flying butterflies, inhaling the aroma of the blossoming flowers and listening to the sound of a light
breeze.
Equipment
One pair of 2.75 mm straight knitting needles (UK12/US2)

2.75 mm circular knitting needles for bear’s outfits (UK12/US2) - it is more convenient to use it instead
of the straight knitting needles
Crochet hook 1.6-2.0 mm (UK1/US1) to make the buttonholes
Plastic-headed pins
A Tapestry needle with a rounded point for sewing up the pieces (length is approx. 5 cm)
A Tapestry needle for attaching the eyes and embroidery the nose (length is approx. 8-9 cm)
Yarn
Yarn A - “Infinity.design” Alpaca, color 0063 Brown (approx. 75-80 g) for two bears
Yarn B - “Infinity.design” Alpaca, color 0072 Beige (less than 10 g) for two bears
Yarn C - “Drops Nord” Mix, color 03 Pearl Grey (less than 10 g) for the outfits
Yarn D - “Drops Alpaca” Mix, color 9026 Blush (less than 20 g) for the outfits
Yarn E - “Drops Nord” Mix, color 08 Fog (less than 5 g) for the outfits
Yarn F - “Drops Kid-Silk” Uni Color, color 01 Off White (less than 10 g) for the outfits
© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

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Other materials
Toy stuffing – washable polyester (approx. 60 g) for two bears
Black and white embroidery threads for the eyes
Brown embroidery thread for nose
Four buttons for the outfits (diameter is approx. 10-11 mm)
Two beads for the flowers (diameter is approx. 3-4 mm)
Yarn Technical characteristics

“Infinity.design” Alpaca - 100% Superfine Alpaca, 50g/100m. Knitting needles 4 mm (UK 8/US 6)
“Drops Nord” Mix - 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool, 50g/170m. Knitting needles 3 mm (UK
11/US 2.5)
“Drops Alpaca” Mix - 100% Alpaca, 50g/167m. Knitting needles 2.5-3.5 mm (UK 12.5-9.5/US 1.5-4)
“Drops Kid-Silk” Uni Color - 75% Mohair, 25% Silk, 25g/210m. Knitting needles 3.5 mm (UK 9.5/US 4)
Knitted over 10x10 cm tension square in St-st

Infinity.design Alpaca (using 2.75 mm knitting needles) – 25 stitches x 35 rows
Drops Nord Mix+Drops Kid-Silk Uni Color or Drops Alpaca Mix+Drops Kid-Silk Uni Color (using 2.75 mm
knitting needles) – 27 stitches x 35 rows
If your sample has more loops than it is indicated in the description you should knit tight or use smaller
needles. If there are fewer loops in your sample then knit more freely or take thicker knitting needles.
This is not a critical condition. Just your toy will be a bit bigger or slightly smaller.
Finished size
Length of the bear - approx. 22 cm (8.7”)
Safety
It's important to ensure that the toy you are making is suitable for the age group of children who it is
intended for. Children under three years of age should not be given the toys which have separate tiny
parts or any small attached pieces - buttons, beads and so on. When sewing up the parts of the toy
make sure that you have removed all plastic-headed pins. If it's possible, don’t use them during the
creation of the toy. This will be a more preferable option, since it will exclude the probability of leaving
or getting pins inside the stuff accidentally. All parts of the toy should be attached or sewn securely.
Abbreviations
K – Knit, P – Purl
St (Sts) – stitch (stitches)
RS – Right side
WS – Wrong side
KLL – Knit Left Loop. This is the most invisible increasing method. Insert your left needle from back to
front underneath the second stitch below the one you have just knitted. Place this stitch on the left
needle. Note that it will be mounted in the reverse direction from normal. Knit it through the front loop
(insert needle from right to left).
St-st – Stocking stitch, alternate rows: K on the right side and P on the wrong side
K2tog – Knit two stitches together as if they were a single stitch
P2tog – Purl two stitches together as if they were a single stitch. Insert the right-hand needle through
the first two loops on the left-hand needle as if to purl. Complete the stitch as normal - looping the yarn
and pulling it through the stitches and onto the right-hand needle, sliding the two stitches off the left
needle.

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SKP – Slip Knit Pass. Slip one stitch knit the next pass the slipped stitch over the knit one (note: on the
WS in the next row this stitch should knit purl through the back loop)
R – Raglan line.
M1T – Make one toward increase. The tail of the yarn is pointing towards you. Take your working yarn,
and bend your index finger toward you. This should create a loop around your finger. Insert the tip of
your working needle into the back of the loop on your finger and release it onto the needle.
M1A – Make one away increase. Take the working yarn and wrap your thumb around it, rolling your
thumb over and towards you, creating a loop. Slip the loop onto your right working needle and release
the yarn from your thumb, tightening it onto the needle.
cm – centimeters, mm – millimeters
A few notes about knitting

- Casting on - I use the thumb method unless otherwise stated.
- Casting off - Cast off K wise unless otherwise stated.
- Edge stitch (first loop) of each row - I always slip the first stitch of each row without knitting it (unless
otherwise stated). The number of stitches in each row includes the edge loop.
- Increase and decrease methods are described in detail in the knitting help website:
https://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/learn-to-knit
- You can find VIDEO TUTORIAL (about filling the toy's body, sewing, embroidering the eyes and others
based on my knitting patterns) in my Instagram account - @lovelyknitcreation
- I also like YouTube channel VeryPink Knits. Here you can find excellent and clear instructions about
knitting: https://www.youtube.com/user/verypinkknits
Toy stuffing
It is more convenient to fill in the parts of the toy little by little rather than using a large piece all at once.
This will allow us not to overstuff the toy parts and will make it easier to shape the toy. Do not be afraid
to start all over again if the result does not suit you.
Body
NOTE: The both bears (boy and girl) have the same patterns for all their parts (body, head, arms, ears,
tail).
Use Yarn A and 2.75mm needles to cast on 10 stitches. Leave a tail of Yarn A approx. 30 cm (12”) for
seaming the head to the body later. Start at the neck area and finish at the legs.
Row 1: (Wrong side) Purl
Row 2: K2, (KLL, K1)x8 times (18 Sts)
Row 3: Purl
Rows 5-9: St-st beginning and finishing with row P
Row 16: K3, (KLL, K4)x7 times, KLL, K3 (42 Sts)
Row 44: Cast off 4 stitches K wise, K14, cast off 6 stitches K wise, K14, cast off 4 stitches K wise.

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Leave a tail of Yarn A approx. 30 cm (12”) for seaming the side seam (back) of the body later. Fasten off
and cut off the thread. The next section is worked in two separate parts (two legs). Each section consists
of 14 stitches.
Row 45: (Wrong side) Join the thread of Yarn A at the beginning of the section. Purl
Row 46: Knit
Row 56: K1, (K2tog)x6 times, K1 (8 Sts)
Cut the working thread from the ball leaving a tail of around 20cm (8”) for seaming. Use the tapestry
needle to thread this tail through the remaining 8 stitches. Pull up tightly and fasten off. Make the
second section/leg (rows 45-56) the same (fig.1).
To make the body

Step 1. Sew the side seam of the body (back) on the length is about 3-4cm (approx. 1”) with the
mattress stitch from the bottom (fig.2). Take into account that the side seam should be located in the
center of the back.
fig.1 fig.2
Step 2. Then you should sew the side seams of the both legs with the mattress stitch and the threads
left earlier. Fill in the legs with the stuffing.
Step 3. Sew the bottom of the body with Invisible Horizontal Seam and fill in the lower body part (fig.3).
Step 4. Continue to sew the side seam till the cast on edge and fill the body with stuffing.
Step 5. Gather up the cast on stitches at the top of the body with the same thread. Pull up tightly, fasten
off the thread and cut off. Cast on thread will be used later to sew the head to the body (fig.4).
fig.3 fig.4

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Arms (make two the same)

Use Yarn A and 2.75mm needles to cast on 11 stitches. Leave a tail of Yarn A approx. 20 cm (8”) for
seaming the arms to the body later. Start at the top edge and finish at the lower edge (“hand”).

Row 2: Knit
Rows 3 - 27: St-st beginning and finishing with row P
Row 28: Knit
Cut the working thread from the ball leaving a tail of
around 20 cm (8”) for seaming. Use the tapestry
needle to thread this tail through the remaining 11
stitches.
Pull up tightly and fasten off. Continue using this
thread and sew the side seam of the arm with the
mattress stitch.
Fill in the arm while sewing. Then gather up the cast
on stitches at the top of the arm with the same
thread. Pull up tightly, fasten off the thread and cut
off. Repeat the same for the second arm (fig.5).
fig.5
Head
Use Yarn A and 2.75mm needles to cast on 11 stitches. Leave a tail of Yarn A approx. 20 cm (8”).
Start at the back of the head and finish at the nose area.
Row 3: Purl
Row 5: Purl
Row 30: Change Yarn A to Yarn B. Leave a tail of Yarn A approx. 20 cm (8”) for seaming the side seam
later and follow the pattern K4, (SKP)x6 times, K6, (K2tog)x6 times, K4 (26 Sts)
Row 36: K3, (SKP)x4 times, K4, (K2tog)x4 times, K3 (18 Sts)
Row 37: Purl
Cut the working thread from the ball leaving a tail of around 20cm (8”). Use the tapestry needle to
thread this tail through the remaining 10 stitches. Pull up tightly and fasten off. Sew the side seam from
the nose (cast off edge) till Yarn A. Fasten off and cut off Yarn B.
Continue sewing the side seam with Yarn A till around 3-4 cm (1.0-1.5”) with the mattress stitch.

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Then thread the tapestry needle with the cast on tail. Gather up the stitches from the cast on edge at
the back of the head and pull up tightly. Fasten off. Sew also 3-4 cm (1.0-1.5”) of the seam with the
mattress stitch leaving a gap is approx. 2-3 cm (1.0”).
Open gap on the neck area will be used to stuff the head and for embroidery the nose and the eyes. Fill
in the head with the stuffing tightly (fig 6 - fig.7).
fig.6 fig.7
To make the head

Step 1. To embroider the eyes
I use French Knots to embroider the eyes. It’s a nice way of making small decorative eyes. French knots
are a great choice for making eyes on a project that is going to a child, or giving a homespun look.
With the round plastic headed pins mark out the face features of the bear (fig.8). Use any strong black
thread and the needle with the length is about 8-9 cm (3.5”) for embroidering the eyes.
Insert the needle with the thread (length of the thread is approx. 50cm (20”)) into the gap on the
bottom of the head and bring it out through the center of the area where you have placed the eye pin
(fig.9). Remove the pin. You should leave the tail of the black yarn (approx. 7cm (3”)) on the open gap to
tie the ends of the embroidering thread at the end.
fig.8 fig.9
Wrap the yarn around the needle 2-3 times (I prefer 3 times for each French knot) (fig.10). The more
times you wrap the yarn, the bigger your knot will be. Return the needle back through the place on the
head close to where you came up (fig.11), but not exactly the same place and out on the opening neck.
Slowly pull the needle and working thread through the wrapped loops to complete a French knot.

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fig.10 fig.11
Repeat the process as many times as necessary to get the eye of the desired size (fig.12). Use another
thread for the second eye. Repeat the process. Tie the ends of the threads together securely at the base
of the head at the end. Then use one white thread with the length is about 40 cm (16”) to embroider the
eye proteins with the simple stitches (fig.13). Tie the ends of the thread together at the end.
fig.12 fig.13
Step 2. To embroider the nose

To embroider the nose use any brown thread (I use Anchor Stranded Mouline №379) and the tapestry
needle with the length is about 8-9 cm (3.5”). Embroider the nose with the simple stitches. To do it push
the needle up through the neck area of the head and out at the place a little higher the center of
gathered cast off (fig.14, point 1). Then push the needle through the point 2 and out at the point 3, etc…
Repeat as many times as necessary to make a cute nose.
fig.14 fig.15

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Finish last step to make the lip (points 5-6) and push the needle through the head coming out at the
neck area. Tie the two ends of the thread together securely and poke the ends inside of the head. You
get a little nose (fig.15). Cover the open area with a small amount of stuffing and close the head seam.
Ears (make two the same)

Use Yarn A and 2.75mm needles to cast on 6 stitches.
Row 3: Purl
Row 10: K1, (K2tog)x3 times, K1, (K2tog)x3 times, K1
(9 Sts)
Row 11: Purl
Row 13: Purl
fig.16
Cut the working thread from the ball leaving a tail of around 30 cm (12”). Use the tapestry needle to
thread this tail through the remaining 6 stitches. Pull up tightly and fasten off (fig.16). Fold the ear in
half (WS is inside). Then gather up the stitches from the cast on edge with the same thread. Pull up
tightly and fasten off. Make second ear the same (fig.17). Attach the ears to the head with the plastic-
headed pins at the position as shown (fig.18). Sew each ear along the ear’s edge with the thread left
earlier on each ear.
fig.17 fig.18
To make up the Bear

Step 1. To attach the head
In order to simplify the process of sewing the head to the body it is necessary to fix the head in the
correct position. I suggest you to use two DPNS knitting needles (or straight needles) to fix the head. To
do this, pierce the head and the body of the bear from the top to the half of the body with DPNS
needles in the position as shown (fig.19). Then attach the head to the body with the cast on thread left
on the body by slipstitching. Remove the needles after sewing.

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Step 2. To attach the arms

Sew the arms to the body at the position as shown (fig.20) with the threads on each arm.
fig.19 fig.20
Tail
Use Yarn A and 2.75mm needles to cast on 6 stitches.
Row 2: Knit
Rows 3 - 6: St-st beginning with row P and finishing
with row K
Cut the working thread from the ball leaving a tail of
around 25 cm (10”). Use the tapestry needle to
thread this tail through 6 stitches. Pull up tightly and
fasten off. Thread the yarn through the edges of the
shape (all the way around and WS is inside). There is
no need to fill the tail with the stuffing. You can hide
the cast on end inside the tail and that will be enough.
Pull the thread tightly around to form a ball. Secure
fig.21 the edges of the ball together.
The tail is ready. Sew it to the lower part of the back (fig.21) with the same thread.
Jumpsuit for Theodore

Use Yarn C+Yarn F and 2.75mm needles to cast on 30 stitches. It is more convenient to use the circular
knitting needles instead of the straight needles for knitting the jumpsuit. Start from the top (neck area)
and finish at the bottom.
There are four parts in it: front, back, and two mini sleeves. They are separated from each other by the
raglan lines. Each raglan line has one stitch in it (K1). We will knit one increase (M1T, fig.22) before and
one increase (M1A, fig.23) after each raglan line until the sleeves will be over.
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Use the following chart for Raglan: R= M1T, K1, M1A
fig.22 (M1T, example) fig.23 (M1A, example)

Row 1: Purl
Row 2: Buttonhole, K6, R, K1, R, K12, R, K1, R, K6 (38 Sts)
How to make the buttonhole in Row 2
We make the buttonhole in the beginning of Row 2. Right side is facing you (fig.24). Slip the first stitch
to the crochet hook (fig.25). I use 1.6 mm crochet hook.
fig.24 fig.25
Bring the yarn over the hook from the back to the
front and grab it with the hook. Draw the yarn
through the first loop on the crochet hook.
Continue until you get a chain of 5-6 loops (fig.26).
The length of the chain depends on the size of the
button you will use for. The chain of 5 loops (using
1.6mm crochet hook) is good for the button with a
diameter is approx. 10-11 mm.
Slip the chain to the left-hand needle (fig.27) and
knit follow the pattern : K6, R, K1, R, K12, R, K1, R,
K6 (38 Sts)
fig.26 The buttonhole is very neat (fig. 28).

11
fig.27 fig.28
Row 3: Purl
Row 4: K7, R, K3, R, K14, R, K3, R, K7 (46 Sts)
Row 5: Purl
Row 7: Purl
Row 9: Purl
Row 11: Purl
Row 13: Purl
Row 14: We will make second buttonhole in Row
14 and cast off stitches in order to shape two
sleeves (fig. 29).
Follow the instruction to do it: Buttonhole, K12,
cast off 15 stitches K wise, K24, cast off 15 stitches
K wise, K12 (48 Sts)
fig.29
Row 15: Purl. In Row 15 cross the stitches 12 and 13, 36 and 37 before knitting (fig.30-31). Then purl
these stitches as the other ones. It is necessary to avoid stretching the yarn under the sleeves.
fig.30 fig.31
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Row 16: (K2, KLL)x5 times, K4, (KLL, K2)x5 times, (K2, KLL)x5 times, K4, (KLL, K2)x5 times (68 Sts)
Row 17: Purl
Row 18: Change Yarn C+Yarn F to Yarn D+Yarn F and Knit. Do not cut off Yarn C at this point.
Row 19: Purl
Row 20: Change Yarn D+Yarn F to Yarn C+Yarn F and Knit. Do not cut off Yarn D at this point.
Row 21: Purl
Row 22: Change Yarn C+Yarn F to Yarn D+Yarn F and Knit. Cut off Yarn C.
Row 42: Knit
Row 43: P6, (P2tog, P3)x5 times, P6, (P3, P2tog)x5 times, P6 (58 Sts)
Cast off К wise. Cut the working threads from the
balls leaving a tail of around 20cm (8”).
Sew the side seam of the jumpsuit from the bottom
(cast off edge) till Yarn C+Yarn F. Take into account
that the side seam should be located in the center of
the back. Fasten off and cut off the threads at the
end (fig.32).
Sew the bottom of the jumpsuit between the leg
openings on the length is about 3-3.5 cm (1.2-1.4”)
with another working thread. Use Invisible
Horizontal Seam for sewing (fig.33). Sew on two
buttons at the opposite ends from the buttonholes
(fig.34).
fig.32
fig.33 fig.34
Scarf for Theodore

Use Yarn E+Yarn F and 2.75mm needles to cast on 65 stitches.
Cast off К wise. Fasten off the thread and cut off. Tie the scarf around Theodore's neck with WS out
(fig.35).

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fig.35
Dress for Felicia

Use Yarn D+Yarn F and 2.75mm needles to cast on 30 stitches.
Row 1: Purl
Row 2: Buttonhole, K6, R, K1, R, K12, R, K1, R, K6 (38 Sts)
Row 3: Purl
Row 5: Purl
Row 7: Purl
Row 9: Purl
Row 11: Purl
Row 13: Purl

Row 14: We will cast off stitches in Row 14 in order to shape two sleeves.
Follow the instruction to do it: K12, cast off 15 stitches K wise, K24, cast off 15 stitches K wise, K12 (48
Sts)

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Row 15: Purl. In Row 15 cross the stitches 12 and 13, 36 and 37 while knitting. It is necessary to avoid
stretching the yarn under the sleeves.
Row 16: Buttonhole, K3, (KLL, K1)x8 times, K3, (KLL, K1)x21 times, K3, (KLL, K1)x7 times, KLL, K3 (85 Sts)
Row 22: Change Yarn D+Yarn F to Yarn С+Yarn F and Knit. Do not cut off Yarn D at this point.
Row 23: Purl
Row 24: Change Yarn С+Yarn F to Yarn E+Yarn F and Knit. Do not cut off Yarn C at this point.
Row 28: Change Yarn E+Yarn F to Yarn C+Yarn F and Knit. Cut off Yarn E.
Row 29: Purl
Row 30: Change Yarn C+Yarn F to Yarn D+Yarn F and Knit. Cut off Yarn C.
Rows 31-33: St-st beginning and
finishing with row P
Row 34: Knit
Row 35: Knit
Cast off К wise. Fasten off the
threads and cut off. Sew on two
buttons at the opposite ends
from the buttonholes (fig.36).
fig.36
Flowers for Felicia (make two the same)

Use Yarn E+Yarn F and 2.75mm needles to cast on 12 stitches. Cut the working threads from the balls
leaving a tail of around 10-15cm (4-6”).
Use the tapestry needle to thread this tail through 12 stitches (fig.37-fig.38).
fig.37 fig.38
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Thread the tail through 12 stitches once more time (fig.39). Then pull up tightly (fig.40).
fig.39 fig.40
Sew the flower sides together with the cast off threads. To do it, catch the opposite side of the flower
with the tapestry needle (fig.41) and pull it gently to connect the sides. Do not over tight otherwise the
flower will lose its shape.
fig.41 fig.42
Repeat the process several times sewing the sides of the flower (fig.42-fig.43).
Fasten off the threads at the end. Do not cut off the threads at this moment. Make the other flower the
same (fig.44).
fig.43 fig.44

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Decorate the flowers with the beads. To do it, sew the bead to the center of the flower with the threads
left on it (fig.45). Then sew each flower to the bear’s head near the ear with the threads on each ear
(fig.46). Fasten off the threads and cut off at the end.
fig.45 fig.46
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Thanks for buying the copy of this pattern. I hope you will enjoy using it.
©Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation All rights reserved
This pattern is for PERSONAL use only. No part of this pattern may be resold, published or reproduced in
any form.
You are welcome to sell ready toys made by my pattern in your own shop. Please offer
LovelyKnitCreation design credit in any description.
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Theodore and Felicia The Little Bears

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1

Lovely Knit Creation

One pair of 2.75 mm straight knitting needles (UK12/US2)

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Yarn Technical characteristics

Knitted over 10x10 cm tension square in St-st

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

A few notes about knitting

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

To make the body

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Arms (make two the same)

Row 1: (Wrong side) Purl

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

To make the head

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Step 2. To embroider the nose

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Ears (make two the same)

To make up the Bear

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Step 2. To attach the arms

Jumpsuit for Theodore

Use the following chart for Raglan: R= M1T, K1, M1A

fig.22 (M1T, example) fig.23 (M1A, example)

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Scarf for Theodore

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Dress for Felicia

Row 11: Purl

Row 12: K11, R, K11, R, K22, R, K11, R, K11 (78 Sts)

Row 13: Purl

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

Flowers for Felicia (make two the same)

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

© Copyright 2020 LovelyKnitCreation

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