On Cooking A Textbook of Culinary

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 This is a special edition of an established title widely used by colleges and
GLOBAL universities throughout the world. Pearson published this exclusive edition
for the benefit of students outside the United States and Canada. If you
GLOBAL
EDITION purchased this book within the United States or Canada, you should be aware EDITION

EDITION
GLOB AL
that it has been imported without the approval of the Publisher or Author.

On

A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals

On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals is a carefully designed guide to the fundamentals
of the culinary arts. This book, for over two decades, has prepared students for a career in
the food service industry. Clear and comprehensive, this best-selling book emphasizes culinary

Cooking

On Cooking
principles first in discussing both the how and the why of cooking. Once principles and techniques
are introduced and explained, through step-by-step instructions and visual guidance, specific
applications and sample recipes from across the globe are provided. These recipes are designed
to reinforce and explain techniques and procedures presented throughout the book.
The sixth edition highlights popular trends like healthy cooking, sous-vide, curing, and smoking,
and includes new recipes and more than 200 new photographs. Using a new framework, chapters A Textbook of
now focus on the six skills essential to a well-rounded culinary professional: professionalism,
preparation, cooking, garde manger, baking, and presentation. Culinary
New to This Edition
• A new Chapter 3, “Nutrition,” complements a revised Chapter 24, “Healthy Cooking and Special
Fundamentals
Diets,” which now includes expanded information on vegetarian and vegan diets, among others.
• Discussions on sustainability and environmental concerns encourage students to consider the
impact of their food choices.
SIXTH EDITION
• At-a-glance cooking-technique callouts highlight core principles, equipment, ingredients, and
steps.
• Sidebars highlight the function and use of various ingredients, reinforcing the science of cooking SARAH R. LABENSKY
and baking.
ALAN M. HAUSE

EDITION
SIXTH
Available separately for purchase is MyLab Culinary for On Cooking, the teaching and learning PRISCILLA A. MARTEL
platform that empowers instructors to personalize learning for every student. When combined
with Pearson’s trusted educational content, this optional suite helps deliver the desired learning
outcomes.

Martel
Hause
Labensky

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 On Cooking
SIXTH EDITION

GLOBAL EDITION

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 1 28/06/22 11:09

 Approach and Philosophy of

On Cooking
The sixth edition, global edition, of On Cooking follows the model established in previ-
ous editions, which have prepared thousands of students for successful careers in the
culinary arts by building a strong foundation based on sound fundamental techniques.
Students and instructors alike have praised On Cooking for its comprehensive yet acces-
sible coverage of culinary skills and cooking procedures. Chapters focus on six areas that
are essential to a well-rounded culinary professional:
➊ Professionalism Background chapters introduce students to the field and feature
material on food history, food safety and menu planning. Updated food safety infor-
mation reflects the most recent regulations. A new chapter on the basics of nutrition
emphasizes the nutritional impact of cooking.
➋ Preparation Chapters cover the core subjects all culinary students should be familiar
with before stepping into the kitchen. Equipment, basic knife skills and mise en place
concepts are explained and illustrated. Staple ingredients, such as dairy products,
herbs and spices as well as flavor profiles are also presented in this section.
➌ Cooking These chapters explain and then demonstrate fundamental cooking tech-
niques with a wide range of recipes. Individual chapters focus on different categories
of key ingredients such as meats, poultry, fish, eggs and vegetables.
➍ Garde Manger These chapters cover kitchen preparations including salads, sandwich
making, charcuterie and hors d’oeuvre preparations. Material is of sufficient depth to
support a complete unit on garde manger skills.
➎ Baking These chapters cover a range of classic and contemporary breads and pastries
that every culinary student should know. The material is sufficient to support a stand-
alone unit on breads and dessert preparation.
➏ Presentation Revised chapters on plate and buffet presentation demonstrate tradi-
tional and contemporary techniques for enhancing the visual presentation of food.
The basics of buffet setup and management are also included in this section.

UPDATES
More than 225 new photographs and illustrations clearly show core techniques, equipment
and foods.
A new Nutrition chapter complements the revised Healthy Cooking and Special Diets
chapter, which now includes expanded information on health-related and vegetarian diets.
Content updates, including new recipes, reflect current trends while a new Basic Proce-
dure feature helps students understand and compare core cooking techniques. Expanded
coverage of curing and smoking, sous vide cooking and principles of vegetable cookery
show students modern cooking techniques widely used in professional kitchens.
New discussions on sustainability and environmental concerns encourage students to
consider the impact of their food choices.
Learning objectives, end-of chapter Questions for Discussion and margin definitions
are fully linked to competencies required by the American Culinary Federation.
At-a-glance cooking technique callouts highlight core principles, equipment, ingre-
dients and steps. Function of Ingredients sidebars reinforce the science of cooking and
baking and explain the uses for certain bakery ingredients.
A greatly enhanced support package includes MyLab Culinary®, an online instruc-
tors’ manual featuring performance-based learning activities, an improved text bank and
lecture-based PowerPoint slides.

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 2 28/06/22 11:09

M02_LABE1900_06_SE_C02.indd Page 21 03/11/17 3:47 PM ganga /203/PH02308/9780134441900_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_ON_COOKING_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_CULINARY_FU ...

Visual Guide for the Reader F O O D S A F E T Y A N D S A N I TAT I O N 21

Easy to navigate, On Cooking is broken down into bite-size subsections as re-
flected Bacterial
Preventing in the tableIntoxications
of contents. We invite
and you to take the guided tour to capture
Infections
the flavor of On Cooking.
All bacteria need certain conditions in order to complete their life cycles. Like humans FAT TOM
and other living things, they need food, a comfortable temperature, moisture, the proper The words FAT TOM can be useful in
pH, theHALLMARK
proper atmosphereFEATURES
and time. The best way to prevent bacterial intoxications and helping you remember the six conditions
infections is to attack the factors bacteria need
48 toCsurvive
H A P T E Rand
O N multiply.
E
that affect bacterial growth, as follows:
The following six conditions, which we will discuss in some detail in this section,
▶ Food
affect the growth of bacteria: After studying this chapter,
example, personal chefs work in private homes cooking for a family or an individual.
▪▶
Learning Objectives
Food
Each chapter begins with clearly stated objectives
you will be able to:
International cruise lines ▶ and
name key historical figures responsible
corporate office buildings,
▶▶
for developing food service
▶ Time
professional
Acidity
L
a and
mastery of private
ike any fine art, great cookery requires taste and creativity, an appreciation of beauty
technique. Likeyachts
the sciences,also employ
successful

factories and college food service operations. Experienced

many
cookery demands
edge and an understanding of basic principles, and like any successful leader, today’s
chef must exercise sound judgment and be committed to achieving excellence in
knowl- cooks and chefs, as do

▪▶ Acidity culinary professionals

professionalism and describe the
contributions of each
all endeavors.may be employed by food manufacturers or large restaurant
that enable you to focus on what you should groups
list and describe
▶▶ in test
the key stages in the kitchens, ▶ book
This product
Temperature
describes foods research
and cooking and equipment,development, sensory
explains culinary principles and evaluation labs and
▪▶ Time
achieve by the end of the chapter. development of the modern food service cooking techniques and provides recipes using these principles and techniques. No book,
industry marketing departments. however, canGrocery storescommitment
provide taste, creativity, hire chefs to For
and judgment. develop and prepare home-meal
these, chefs and
▶ Oxygen
▪▶ Temperature explain thereplacement
organization of classic and
▶▶
modern kitchen brigades
foodsother and
culinary
conduct in-store demonstrations. Hospitals and assisted-living
professionals must rely on themselves. This chapter explores the rich history
of the restaurant industry and the individuals who influenced the development of the pro-
residences now to hire ▶ trained
fession.
Moisture
It also outlineschefs, in addition
(water
the attributes
activity)
of the professional tochef.registered
As you begin yourdietitians
culinary and nutrition spe-
▪▶ Oxygen identify the attributes a student needs
▶▶

cialists, to accommodate
become a successful culinary professional studies, we hope
the needsinspiration
that you find in the history of the food service industry as you
and interests
learn about the qualities that will guide you in your chosen career.
of their clients.
▪▶ Moisture describe the importance of professional
▶▶
ethics for chefs andAlternative
list the specific careers for culinary graduates include working for food publications,
behaviors that all culinary professionals
including books, magazines CHEFS ANDand digital media, which need culinarians as writers, critics,
Chapter Introduction should follow
recipe developers,pH fooda stylists
measurement
RESTAURANTS
and editors.
offorthe You
acid might
orhave alkali even move
content into restaurant con-
Food sulting, or openof
Cooks have produced food in quantity as long as people
millennia, chefs, whether they be Asian, Native American, European or African, have
your own culinary business asand an
eaten together.
entrepreneur.
For
With the proper
Chapter introductions summarize
Bacteria need food for energy and growth and thrive on foods that are referred the main to aseducation
cookery the art, practice or work of cooking
a
catered solution,
to the often elaborateexpressed
dining needs of on a
the wealthy scale of
powerful; 0–14.0.
and for centu-
advanced and experience, you may find opportunities to teach in a profes-
ries, vendors in China, Europe and elsewhere have sold foods to the public that they
themes in each chapter and help reinforce topics.
time and temperature controlled for safety (TCS) foods. These foods source
cooking
are
(1) the transfer
generally
sional
to a food;
of energy
this energyculinary
from a heat A
alters the food’s school,
pH
prepared
But the
of 7.0
themselves
orhistory
orisbought
considered
for ofavocational
from others.
the professional chef
neutral
oris community
or balanced.
classes.
of relatively recent origin. Its cast is
molecular structure, changing its texture, flavor,
Advanced The
(2) the preparationeducation
lower the pH in value, the morehospitality, acidic
mostly French, and it is intertwined with the history of restaurants—for only with the
is ofavailable thegastronomy,
thetourism, restaurant man-
high in protein and include animal-based products, cooked grains and some raw and
aroma and appearance;
food for consumption
of development
substance.
restaurants during
The higher
late 18th and early 19th
the pH value,
expected to produce, efficiently and economically, different dishes at different times
centuries were chefs
the more
agement, culinary entrepreneurship and related fields. Many non-degree programs offer
for different diners.
cooked vegetables. These foods, and items containing these foods, must bespecific
on a knowledge handled
professional cooking a system of cooking based
of
training for
and appreciation for ingredi-
alkaline
cooks thesubjects
in substance. as diverse as international cuisines, wine and spirits,
ents and procedures The 18th Century—Boulanger’s Restaurant
with great care. financial management The wordand pâtisserie.
restaurant is derived fromA theculinarian,
French word restaurer even one Since
(“to restore”). with the many years of experi-

Margin Definitions
16th century, the word restorative had been used to describe rich and highly flavored
ence, may work an unpaid stage , lasting from a few days to a few months, in a world-
▲

stage [stahzh] a brief, unpaid internship or soups or stews capable of restoring lost strength. Restoratives, like all other cooked
foods offered and purchased outside the home during this period of history, were made
Acidity Important terms appear in training session in a professional kitchen; from class kitchen simply formembers.
by guild the opportunity
Each guild had a monopoly to increase
on preparing knowledge
a category of food items. and skills. Self-education
Safety Alert
For example, during the reign of Henri IV of France (r. 1589–1610), there were separate
the French stagiaire, meaning apprentice or should continue byguilds reading industry
(who cookedpublications, attending
cuts of meat),conferences and trade shows
pH
for rôtisseurs la grosse viande, the main pâtissiers
Bacteria thrive the marginsin an environmentto help you where intern the acidity and alkalinity are in balance. and traveling locally
(who cooked poultry, pies and tarts), tamisiers (who baked breads), vinaigriers (who
made andsauces and abroad.
some stews,International travel
including some restoratives), allows
traiteurs (who made you meatto experience different
is a measurement
master new of the acid or alkali content of a solution, expressed on a scale
terminology. cuisinesoffirst-hand, 0 stews) and
perhaps porte-chapes (caterers
bythattaking who organized
classes feasts and
in opened celebrations).
the local cuisine
1765 when and food culture.
to 14.0.ThereA pHisofa 7.0 is considered neutral or balanced. The lower the pH value, In short, the graduation
Thefrom
The French claim
Temperature the first modern
culinary school
Danger
restaurant
isHisjust
Parisian tavern keeper, a Monsieur Boulanger, hung a sign advertising the sale of his
Zone
one day in
the beginning
a
of your education.
helpful phonetic Your specific occupation
special restorative,
thereafter as the may
a dish of sheep
result of achange
feet in
lawsuit broughtor
white sauce.
by aevolve
establishment
depending
closed shortly
on personal desires and
more acidic the substance.guide
pronunciation The higher for the pH value, the more alkaline the substance. The
langer temperature
was infringing on their exclusive danger
guild whose members
right to sellzone
preparedisdishes.
claimed that Bou-
a broad
Boulanger tri-

Safety Alerts abilities, family needs umphedand in courtunexpected

and later reopened. opportunities. But, wherever you work, you must
▲

Although they can survive terms.

non-English in a wider range, bacteria prefer a neutral environment continue learning out and range
Boulanger’s
Europedevelopingof temperatures
establishment
for centuries. These
differed
your
from
inns and
the
skills. inserved
inns
taverns A
and
which
taverns
true
that
most of
had existed
foodsprofessional
through-
prepared (usually off never stops learning.
with a pH of 6.6–7.5. Growth is usually halted if the pHBrief is 4.6 notes or less.remind Acidic you foods of premises) by the appropriate guild. The food—of which there was little choice—was
the
offered bacteria
by the inn or tavern asthat cause
incidental food-borne
to the establishment’s primary function: provid-

such as lemon juice, tomatoes and vinegar, which have safety lower concerns pH values, and encour- create an ing sleeping accommodations or drink. Customers were served family style and ate at
illnesses
communal multiply
tables. Boulanger’s rapidly.
contribution to the food Theservice2013
industry wasFoodserving a

unfavorable environment for bacteria. Simply addingage an you acidic to ingredient

incorporate34 QUESTIONS
to food foods FOR DISCUSSION
variety of foods prepared on premises to customers whose primary interest was dining.
Code of the U.S. Food and Drug
should not, however,
M07_LABE1900_06_SE_C07.indd be relied
Page 132 03/11/17 upon to destroy
3:49 PM ganga bacteria
safety and orsanitation
preserve foods. into1 your
/203/PH02308/9780134441900_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_ON_COOKING_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_CULINARY_FU The Administration
... (FDA), July 2015
Summarize the contributions that chefs Carême and Escoffier made to advance the culinary
amount of acidity appropriate for flavoring is not sufficient to ensure
regular kitchen the destruction
activities. arts during the 19th century.
M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 34
supplement, indicates that the 26/05/2022 14:09

of bacteria. temperature danger zone begins at 41°F

2 Discuss two recent culinary movements and their impact on the way food is served in
132 restaurants today.(5°C) and ends at 135°F (57°C).
Time CHAPTER SEVEN
Regulations in some localities and with
3 List and explain three technological advances affecting food preparation.
Bacterial growth takes place in four phases. See Figure 2.3. When bacteria are moved some organizations may vary. This text
From Your Grocer’s Shelf How can a food service operation address customer concerns about where their food was
from one place to another, they require time to adjust to new conditions. This4 resting uses the range recommended by the FDA.
Even the most sophisticated food service sauce. Asian cuisines incorporate these onions, sugar, vinegar, mango, raisins, grown or raised and participate in the sustainability movement?
period, during which
operation occasionally very
uses some little growth
prepared bottled sauces occurs, isstews
in curries, soups, known
and as theand lag
tamarind phase
spices. Produced andit may last
in Jamaica,

from 1 tocondiments log phase 5 Discuss the societal changes that have contributed to diversification in the modern food
here4arehours. The lag phase other ismostfollowed byavailable
thebrands fish and as ,a seasoning
a period in sauces, of
soupsaccelerated
or flavorings. The products listed dishes and as table condiments. One of is used as a condiment for meat, game or
widely used and available from grocery the popular and widely and
service industry.
growth, and then by the stationary
stores or wholesale purveyors. Some are
brand-name items that have become almost
phase, which lasts until
is the Vietnamese-style chile garlic sauce with
a rooster logo on its label, made in California
the bacteria begin to crowd
dressings.
▶ Tabasco brand sauce: Tabasco sauce is a thin,
within their colony, creating competition
synonymous with the product itself; others are by Huy Fong Foods.for food, space bright-red
Various imported and liquid moisture.
blended from vinegar,
6
Thischilescrowding Describe the kitchen brigade system. What is its significance in today’s professional
available from several manufacturers. When Sriracha sauces, named for a port town in and salt. Its fiery flavor is widely used in kitchens?
signals the
there isbeginning
a choice, select brandsof with the decline
all natural southernor negative-growth
Thailand, are also widely available. phase
sauces, soups, and during which
prepared dishes; it is a bacteria Stationary
ingredients, few thickeners and no
die at anpreservatives.
accelerated rate. ▶ Hoisin sauce: Hoisin sauce is a dark, thick, 7 What are the Flavor
roles of a Sidebars
chef, sous-chefphase
and line cook in a modern kitchen?
▲

popular condiment for Mexican, southern

salty-sweet sauce made from fermented and southwestern cuisines. Tabasco sauce

Because of sauce:
▶ Barbecue theCommercial
lag phase, barbecue sauce foods
is can be in the temperature
soybeans, vinegar, garlic and caramel. It is
danger zone for very
has been produced in Louisiana since 1868.
short
8 Describe the key attributes of
These sidebarsLogshowa culinary professional and things you can do to develop the
how
Number of bacteria cells

used in Chinese dishes or served as a dipping Other “Louisiana-style” hot sauces

a mixture of tomatoes, vinegar and spices
periods during preparation beforesauce. bacterial growth increases to
(containing onlyan unacceptable
peppers, vinegar and salt) skills,
level. taste and judgment required
phase in your chosen career?
used primarily for marinating or basting
▶ Old Bay brand seasoning: Old Bay is a dry spice may be substituted. flavoring ingredients may be Decline phase
Exposure to the temperature danger
meat, poultry or fish. A tremendous variety
of barbecue sauces are available, with blendzone
containingis cumulative,
celery salt, dry mustard, however, and
▶ Worcestershire sauce: should
Worcestershire saucenot is a 9 exceed
List and explain the benefits that you can enjoy by belonging to a professional culinary
used to change the character
4 hours total. The less time food ispaprika inin shellfish
the temperature organization.
especially danger zone, theincluding
less opportunity
various flavors, textures and aromas. Sample and other flavorings. It is widely thin, dark brown liquid made from a variety
several before selecting the most appropriate used preparations, of fermented ingredients of a dish.
bacteria have to multiply.
for your specific needs. boiled shrimp and crab. anchovies, malt vinegar, tamarind, molasses
10 Why do professional culinary organizations ask their members to adhere to a code of ethics?
▶ Chile sauce: Asian chile sauce, also known as▶ Oyster sauce: Oyster sauce is a thick, dark and spices. It is used as a condiment for beef
Lag
and as a seasoning for sauces, soups, stews
sambol or sambol oelek, varies somewhat sauce made from oyster extract. It has a
and prepared dishes. Its flavor should be
11 The James Beard Foundation
phase recognizes and honors outstanding American chefs each year.
Temperature depending on the country of origin or style,
but all are thick, reddish-orange and
salty-sweet flavor and a rich aroma. Oyster
Use outside resources to learn who James Beard was. Which chefs are currently considered
sauce is often used with stir-fried meats and rich and full, but not salty. Vegetarian and
kosher versions made without anchovies are
Temperature is the most important factor in
extremely pungent and spicy. They usually
the poultry in Chinese cuisine.
pathogenic bacteria’s some of the most outstanding in the United States? Why?
environment also available.
▶ Pickapeppa brand sauce: Pickapeppa sauce is a
contain ground chiles with garlic or onion
because it is the factor food service workers can most easily control. High temperatures
dark, thick, sweet-hot blend of
and with less vinegar than Louisiana-style hot tomatoes, 0 5 10
Time (hours)
destroy most microorganisms. Freezing slows but does not stop growth, nor does it
destroy bacteria. Fermented black bean sauce is a Chinese condiment and flavoring ingredient made Figure 2.3 Bacterial growth curve. 3
from black soybeans that have been heavily salted, then fermented and either slightly
mashed (whole bean sauce) or puréed (paste). Both versions usually include hoisin,
chile sauceM01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd
or minced garlic and feature an intense,
48 pungent, salty flavor. Yellow bean 26/05/2022 14
Fermented black bean sauces are similar, but milder and sweeter.
paste Fish sauce (Viet. nuoc mam; Th. nam pla) is the liquid drained from fermenting
salted anchovy-like fish. It is a thin, golden to light brown liquid with a very pungent
odor and salty flavor. There is no substitute for the savory richness that it adds to food
and it is considered an essential flavoring and condiment throughout Southeast Asia,
where it is used in and served with most every sort of dish.
Gochujang [go-choo-JANG] is a paste made from finely ground dried Korean red
A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 3 peppers, glutinous (sticky) rice flour, fermented soy bean flour, salt and a bit of sugar or 28/06/22 11:09
Fish sauce honey. It is used in stews, in marinades, as a condiment for simple rice
 M33_LABE1900_06_SE_C33.indd Page 982 09/11/17 6:15 PM ganga /203/PH02308/9780134441900_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_ON_COOKING_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_CULINARY_FU ...

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982 CHAPTER THIRT Y-THREE

FL AVORS AND FL AVORINGS 117

Procedure for Rolling and Shaping Pie Dough

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Like music, clothing, architecture, language and basic belief systems, food is a deeply
ingrained factor in the culture of any group of people. Flavor principles may be a good
phrase for explaining the differences among various global cuisines, as the words “eth-
nic” or “foreign” may be seen as insensitive, or even offensive, terms for non-western
cultures and cuisines. Because of modern access to ingredients and increased interna-

Procedures

▲
tional travel and migration, today’s cooks are exposed to a greater variety of cuisines
than at any time in history. But exposure is not expertise. Culinarians should strive to
understand the heritage and history of cuisines that are different from their own and

212
C H A P T E R ➋ EWhen
L EyouVhave
➊ Dough for a typical pie crust or tart shell
should be rolled to a thickness of approximately
⅛ inch (3 millimeters); it should be at least
2 inches (5 centimeters) larger in diameter than
the baking pan.
➌ Press the dough into the pan. For a single Step-by-step color photographs of various stages
should work with these various cooking methods, ingredients and presentations in a
thoughtful, respectful manner.
crust pie, trim the edge. Use the index finger
and thumb on one hand and the index finger in the preparation of ingredients and dishes help
HERBS AND SPICES
on the other to create a scalloped edge. Bake
or fill as desired. you visualize unfamiliar techniques and encour-
herb any of a large group of aromatic plants
Herbs and spices are used as flavorings, an item that adds a new taste to a food and
E rolled
N the dough to the whose leaves, stems or flowers are used as a
desired thickness, carefully roll the dough up
age
leaves, stems you
or flowers to review
are used classroom
in dried and fresh orfoods.kitchen activities
alters its natural flavors. Herbs are members of the large group of aromatic plants whose
form to add flavors to other flavoring; used either dried or fresh
Spices are strongly flavored or aromatic portions of plants used as flavorings, condi- aromatic (1) having a characteristic and pleas-
onto a rolling pin. Position the pin over the pie
pan or tart shell and unroll the dough, easing it
whenever
ments or aromatics. Spices arenecessary.
the bark, roots, seeds, buds or berries of plants that usu-
ally grow naturally only in tropical climates. Spices are almost always used in their dried
ant odor or smell; (2) a food added to enhance
the natural aromas of another food; aromatics
into the pan or shell. form, rarely fresh, and can usually be purchased whole or ground. Some plants—dill, for include most flavorings, such as herbs and
example—can be used as both an herb (its leaves) and a spice (its seeds). Some herbs spices, as well as some vegetables, especially

Good Choice Vegan Vegetable Stock

and spices are rich in aromatic oils that may easily overpower a dish. Know which herbs
and spices may overwhelm and use them sparingly.
In the sections that follow, we discuss common herbs and spices and show photos of
celery, carrots and onions

spice any of a large group of aromatic plants

whose bark, roots, seeds, buds or berries are
them to help familiarize you with them. Herbs, spices and blends are listed alphabeti- used as a flavoring; usually used in dried form,

MISE EN PL ACE YIELD 2 gal. (7.6 lt)

cally and pictured in three separate lists in the following sections. either whole or ground

Herbs
▶ Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for
Vegetable oil 4 fl.andoz. should be used if pos- 120 ml
Fragrant herbs are available fresh or dried. Because drying alters their flavors
and aromas, fresh herbs are generally preferred
mirepoix. sible. Micro herbs are the first true leaves of virtually any edible herb, such
➎ Roll out the remaining dough, making the
circle large enough to hang over the pan’s edge. Mirepoix, small dice as basil or chervil. Micro greens are very fragile 4 lb.and must be hand- 1.9 kg
▶ Clean, peel and chop leek andmay garlic
be liftedcloves. picked and carefully packaged for delivery. They are bursting with
The dough into place by rolling it
Leek, white and green parts, chopped 1 aslb.
intense flavor; chefs use them garnishes, especially 480 g
 ▶ Wash and dice fennel, onto the rolling pin, as with the bottom crust.
turnip and tomato.
Product Identification
Garlic
top crust tocloves, chopped
on entrées and canapés.
8 8

▲
➍ To make a double crust pie, roll the dough ➏ Seal the the bottom crust with Basil (Fr. basilic) is one of the
out asbefore,
▶ Prepare herb
making the circle sachet.
large. Press the egg wash or water. Pinch the top and bottom great culinary herbs. It is available in

Hundreds
dough into the pan and trim the edges as
of original color photographs Fennel,
crust together between yoursmall
fingertips dice
help you
or crimp a variety8of oz.
“flavors”—cinnamon, garlic,240 g
lemon, even chocolate—but the most common is
Micro basil Micro chervil

needed. as desired. Slits or designs should be cut from

Turnip,
Youdiced 4 oz. 120 g
sweet basil. Sweet basil has light green, tender leaves
recognize and identify ingredients. the top crust to allow steam
can ex-
to escape. and small white flowers. Its flavor isn’t actually sweet,
Tomato, diced hint of anise and 4 oz.Basil is used in Mediterranean
120andg
but rather strong, warm and slightly peppery, with a

plore a huge variety of items such asWhite fruits, wine

berries, Basil cloves.

garlic and tomatoes. When purchasing fresh1basil, pt.look for bright green leaves;
480 ml
some Southeast Asian cuisines and has a special affinity for
Procedure for Rolling and Shaping Dough for Lattice Crusts
chocolates, fresh herbs, fish, driedWater spices, game, avoid flower buds and wilted or rust-colored leaves. Dried sweet basil is readily
available but has a decidedly weaker flavor2 gal.
than fresh. 7.6 lt
M12_LABE1900_06_SE_C12.indd Page 258 06/11/17 3:18 PM ganga
a guide, cut even strips of the desiredmeats and
width, typically ½ inch fine
(1.2 cheeses.
Roll the dough out and line the pan as specified in the previous procedure. Using a ruler as
1
Sachet: centimeters).
Opal basil is named for its vivid purple color. It has a tougher, crinkled leaf
and a medium-strong flavor. Opal basil may be substituted for sweet basil in
/203/PH02308/9780134441900_LABENSKY/LABENSKY_ON_COOKING_A_TEXTBOOK_OF_CULINARY_FU ...
Opal basil
Spoon or pour the filling into the dough-lined-pan. Using an over-under-over pattern,
2 cooking, and its appearance makes it a distinctive garnish.
weave the strips together on top of the filling. Be sure the strips Bay leafspaced for an
are evenly Thai sweet basil (Th. 2 bai horapha) has a narrow
leaf and purple stem. It has a slight licorice flavor and
2
Dried thyme
attractive result. Crimp the lattice strips to the bottom crust to seal. is used in both raw and 1
Asian cuisines.
tsp.dishes in Southeast Thai5sweet
cooked mlbasil
Peppercorns, crushed Bay leaves produces 1 tsp. 5 ml
Bay (Fr. laurier), also known as sweet laurel, is a small tree that
tough, glossy leaves with a sweet balsamic aroma and
258 CHAPTER T WELVE
Parsley stems 16 16
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Good Choice 1 Heat the oil. Add the mirepoix, leek, garlic, fennel, turnip and tomato and sweat for 10 minutes.
Beef Broth
Mise en Place 2 Add
▲

MISE EN PL ACE
▶ Cut beef shank into pieces.
YIELD 2 gal. (7.6 lt), 42 Servings,
6 fl. oz. (180 ml) each
the wine, water and sachet.
METHOD Broth

▶ Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for

mirepoix.
Beef shank, neck or shoulder cut in
French
2-in.- (5-cm-)for
3 Bring the 5.7
“put in place,”
thick pieces
12 lb.
mixture
kg
to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes, skimming the stockF I SifH A N D S H E L L F I S H 481
▶ Wash and peel turnips and leeks and chop into
medium dice. this
Beef stockfeature
or water, cold accompanying
Vegetable oil necessary.
8 fl.
2 gal.
oz. 240 ml
7.6 lt Tail (caudal fin) Backbone Dorsal fin
▶ Wash, peel, seed and dice tomatoes.
▶ Prepare herb sachet. in-chapter
Mirepoix
Turnips, medium dice recipes provides
4 Strain,
2 lb.
8 oz. cool
960 g
240 gand refrigerate. Operculum (gill cover)

238 C H A P T E R Ea
L Elist of
Leeks, medium dice
V Eseeded
Tomatoes, N and what you must
diced Approximate
do
8 oz.
8 oz. values
240 g
g 1-fl.-oz. (30-ml) serving: Calories 5, Total fat 0 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 0 mg, Total
240per
Adding cold water to sweated beforevegetables. starting a recipe,
Sachet:
Bay leaf carbohydratessuch
1 0 g,1 Protein 0 g, Claims—fat free; low calorie
as preheating the oven, ½½ 11 tsp.
Dried thyme
Peppercorns, crushed tsp.
5 ml
5 ml

Procedure for Preparing

chopping nuts or melting
a
Parsley stems

Vegetable Court
Garlic cloves, crushed
8
2
Juice Bouillon
8

TT Sauce
2 Vent
butter. Salt TT Ribs Pectoral fin
A court bouillon [bool-yawn], is not actually a stock. Anal fin
However, Pinbones
it is prepared
Pelvic fin in much the
1 Wash manner
2 hours, skimming the and
surfaceaspeel
as vegetables
1 Brown the meat in 4 fluid ounces (120 milliliters) oil, then place it in a stockpot. Add the stock or
water and bring to a simmer. Simmer gently forsame stocks,
necessary. so weasinclude
needed. it here. A court bouillon (French for “short broth”)
Figure 20.1 Bone structure of a round fish.

is a2 flavored liquid, usually water and wine

for 2 hours. Add the turnips, leeks, tomatoes and sachet. Process the vegetables through a juice extractor.
2 Caramelize the mirepoix in the remaining oil and add it to the liquid after the meat has simmered
orfin) vinegar,
Tail (caudal Backbone in which vegetables
Dorsal fin and season-
Operculum (gill cover)
ings 3 have been simmered to impart theirstock, flavors andjuice, aromas.
Icons Place the juice in a saucepan and add lemon herbs or other flavorings as
▲ 3 Simmer until full flavor has developed, approximately 1 hour. Skim the surface as necessary.
4 Carefully strain the broth through cheesecloth and season to taste. Cool and refrigerate.
Courtdesired. bouillon is most commonly used to poach foods such as fish and shellfish.
Icons identify recipes that are Approximate values per 6-fl.-oz. (180-ml) serving: Calories 30, Total fat 1 g, Saturated fat 0 g, Cholesterol 0 mg, Sodium 55 mg,
Recipes
Total carbohydrates 1 g, Protein 4 g
vary depending on the foods to be poached. Although a court bouillon can be
4 Bring the sauce to a simmer and reduce as necessary.
vegetarian, vegan or good made in advance and refrigerated for later use, its simplicity lends itself to fresh prepara-
5 Strain the sauce through a fine chinois if required.
choices for health-conscious tion whenever Line Drawings needed.
▲

diners. 6 Adjust the seasonings. Enrich the sauce by whisking in whole butter or other fat if desired.
Detailed line drawings illustrate Anal fin Pectoral fin

tools and equipment without

brand identification. Other draw- Court Bouillon
Good Choice Vegan Ribs Pinbones Vent Pelvic fin

Figure 20.2 Bone structure of a flatfish.

MISE EN PL ACE ings depict
Vegetarian Good Choice YIELDthe skeletal
1 gal. (3.8 lt) structure Carrot Juice Sauce
▶ Peel and chop onions, carrots and celery for of meat animals, fish and poultry.
mirepoix. Water 1 gal. 3.8 lt
M
▶ ICrush
SE EN PL ACE YIELD
Vinegar 8 fl. oz. (240 ml) 6 fl. oz. 180 ml
peppercorns.
➊ Browning the meat. ➋ Adding mirepoix to the broth. ➌ Straining the broth. Stacked
▶ Wash carrots and put through juice extractor. Lemon juice
Carrot muscle2 fl. oz. 60 ml
1 pt. 480 ml
fibers
▶ Chop fresh herbs. Mirepoix
Cinnamon, ground 1 lb. 8 oz. 720pinch
g pinch
Bay leaves
Clove, ground 4 4 pinch pinch
Individual
Peppercorns,
Nutmeg, crushed
ground 1 tsp. 5 mlpinch pinch
muscle fiber

Dried thyme
Salt and white pepper Figure 20.31Muscle
pinch 1 pinch
fibers in a round fish. TT TT
4 Parsley
Cayennestems
pepper 1 bunch 1 bunch
pinch
Compared to meats, fish do not contain large pinch
amounts of intermuscular fat. But the
amount of fat a fish does contain affects the way it responds to cooking. Fish containing
1 Lemon
Combinejuice relatively large amount of fat, such as salmon1and
all ingredients and bring to aafish.
boil. Tbsp.
mackerel, are known15as fatty
ml or oily
Fish containing very little fat, such as cod and haddock, are referred to as lean fish.
Unsalted butter, diced Shellfish are also very lean. 3 oz. 90 g
2 Reduce to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes.
Fresh chervil, chives or tarragon, chopped 2 Tbsp. 30 ml
3 Strain and use immediately or cool and refrigerate.
1 Combine the carrot juice, spices and lemon juice in a small sauce pan. Bring to a simmer and
Note This recipe can be used for poaching almost any fish, but it is particularly well suited to salmon,
reduce the liquid by half.
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Additional Quick Bread Formulas

Recipes Chocolate Cherry Scones
Houston Community College, Houston, TX
Pastry Chef Eddy Van Damme
Measurements YIELD 24 Scones, approx. 4¼ oz. (130 g) each METHOD Biscuit

All recipes include both U.S. and metric Unsalted butter, cold
Granulated sugar
14 oz.
4 oz.
420 g
120 g
44%
12.5%
measurements. To aid in teaching scal- Buttermilk 8 fl. oz. 240 ml 25%
Sour cream 1 lb. 480 g 50%
ing and consistent baking practices, we Salt 0.6 oz. (1 Tbsp.) 18 g 2%
Vanilla extract 0.5 fl. oz. (1 Tbsp.) 15 ml 1.5%
also provide metric equivalents for all All-purpose or pastry flour 2 lb. 960 g 100%
temperatures, pan sizes and length mea- Baking powder
Dried cherries
2 oz.
1 lb.
60 g
480 g
6%
50%
surements throughout the text. Baking Chocolate chunks 9 oz. 270 g 28%
Powdered sugar as needed as needed
recipes also include measurements in Total dough weight: 6 lb. 6 oz. 3063 g 319%
baker’s percentage. 1 Chill a mixer bowl and paddle attachment in the freezer for at least 15 minutes before mixing.
2 Cut the butter into 1-inch (6-millimeter) cubes. Set aside in the refrigerator.
3 Whisk together the sugar, buttermilk, sour cream, salt and vanilla extract in a bowl until smooth.
Illustrations Set aside in the refrigerator.
4 Put the flour and baking powder in the chilled mixer bowl. Place the butter on top. Mix on low
speed using the paddle attachment until the mixture resembles coarse meal.
Recipes are illustrated with both sequen- 5 Add the buttermilk mixture to the dry ingredients and mix very briefly, until just combined. Mix in
tial photos showing the preparation of the cherries and chocolate until just combined.
6 Scale the dough into three uniform pieces. On a lightly floured surface, press each piece of dough
dishes and many finished-dish photos out into an 8-inch (20.5-centimeter) disk using a metal torte ring or other form as a guide.
7 Cut each disk of dough into eight wedges. Position the wedges of dough spaced 2 inches (5 centi-
that show you the authors’ finished food meters) apart on parchment-lined baking sheets. Bake at 375°F (190°C) until light golden brown,
created while testing the recipes. approximately 18–24 minutes. When cool, dust with powdered sugar if desired.
Variation:
Cinnamon Orange Scones—Omit the sun-dried cherries and chocolate chunks. Add 0.5 ounce (2 table-
spoons/15 grams/1.5%) ground cinnamon and 0.2 ounce (1 tablespoon/6 grams/0.6%) grated
Variations orange zest in Step 3. Yield is reduced to 4 pounds 15 ounces (2313 grams).
Approximate values per 4¼-oz. (130-g) scone: Calories 430, Total fat 21 g, Saturated fat 13 g, Cholesterol 45 mg, Sodium 550 mg,
Recipe variations show you how to Total carbohydrates 58 g, Protein 6 g, Vitamin A 25%, Calcium 20%, Iron 15%

modify recipe ingredients to create new

dishes.

Nutritional Analysis
All recipes include a nutritional analysis
prepared by a registered dietician.

➊ Mixing in the chilled butter. ➋ Adding the chilled buttermilk mixture. ➌ Placing the portioned dough on baking sheets.
937

Finished dish photos illustrate ways to present the

recipe.

Sidebars
Sidebars present information on food history, food in culture and the back-
ground of professional foodservice. These sidebars help you understand the
culinary arts in a wider social context.

Questions for Discussion

Questions for Discussion, which appear at the end of each chapter, encourage you
to integrate theory and technique into a broader understanding of the material.
5

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 5 28/06/22 11:10

 Comprehensive Learning and Teaching Package
FOR THE STUDENT
MyLab Culinary MyLab Culinary, a dynamic online tool, supports the many ways students learn.
MyLab Culinary enables the student to study and master the content online on
their own time and at their own pace. Media-rich personalized study plans are
based on the student’s performance using the site’s interactive testing and games.
▪▪ UPDATED! Pearson Kitchen Manager has been redesigned and rebuilt for an
improved customer experience and better connection to the Learning Objectives.
With this collection of On Cooking recipes, you can quickly perform simple tasks
such as recipe scaling, recipe costing and recipe conversions.
▪▪ NEW! Chapter 0, Culinary Math Fundamentals, with one model problem for
20 identified math concepts, with 10 practice problems for each concept (220 total
problems).
The following updated chapter resources are included:
▪▪ Short Writing Assignments for each chapter build critical analysis and problem
solving skills and send students to Pearson Kitchen Manager (when appropriate).
▪▪ Multiple Choice Questions in the form of Chapter Quizzes and Tests are in align-
ment with each Learning Objective, reinforcing the content in On Cooking.
▪▪ Videos align with On Cooking or current American Culinary Federation Standards.
▪▪ Video Assessment Questions are included with each video.
▪▪ Culinary Rubrics and Correlation Guides align with current American Culinary
Federation Standards.

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 6 28/06/22 11:10

 FOR THE INSTRUCTOR

Manage Your Course with MyLab Culinary

MyLab Culinary is an easy-to-use online resource designed to supplement a
traditional lecture course. It provides instructors with basic course management
capabilities in the areas of course organization, grades, communication and per-
sonalization of content. Instructors benefit from course management tools such
as a robust grade book, integrated course email and reporting tools. MyLab
Culinary also includes grading rubrics; these downloadable documents that can
be used to grade and assess kitchen skills. Reporting features include data track-
ing and reporting for students.
Qualified adopters can download the following instructor supplements by regis-
tering at our Instructors’ Resource Center at www.pearsonglobaleditions.com.

Online Instructor’s Manual

The Instructor’s Manual includes chapter outlines, examination questions and
answers, performance-based learning activities, answers to end-of-chapter
questions for discussion and maps to ACF skill standards and competencies.
(ISBN-10: 1-292-44366-9)

PowerPoint Lecture Presentations

This comprehensive set of slides can be used by instructors for class presenta-
tions or by students for lecture preview or review. There is a presentation for
each chapter, including a selection of full-color photographs from the book.
(ISBN-10: 1-29-244367-7)

TestGen (Computerized Test Bank)

TestGen contains text-based questions in a format that enables instructors to choose
questions in order to create their own examinations. (ISBN-10: 1-292-44369-3)

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 7 30/06/22 21:02

 This page is intentionally left blank

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 8 28/06/22 11:10

 On Cooking
A TE XTBOOK OF C U LINARY FU NDAMENTALS | SIXTH EDITION

GLOBAL EDITION

SARAH R. LABENSKY | ALAN M. HAUSE | PRISCILLA A. MARTEL

Photographs by Richard Embery and Debby Wolvos
Drawings by Stacey Winters Quattrone and William E. Ingram

Harlow, England • London • New York • Boston • San Francisco • Toronto • Sydney • Dubai • Singapore • Hong Kong
Tokyo • Seoul • Taipei • New Delhi • Cape Town • São Paulo • Mexico City • Madrid • Amsterdam • Munich • Paris • Milan

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Please contact https://support.pearson.com/getsupport/s/contactsupport with any queries on this content.
Cover Image: stockcreations / Shutterstock

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has been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

Authorized adaptation from the United States edition, entitled On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals,
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 About the Authors
SARAH R. LABENSKY
Chef Sarah is a culinary educator and academic administrator with an extensive
background as a restaurateur and caterer, textbook author and dedicated advocate
for culinary professionalism. She is currently a professor at Woosong University’s
Sol International Culinary Arts School in Daejeon, Korea. Previously Chef Sarah was
Founding Director of the Culinary Arts Institute at Mississippi University for Women
(MUW) in Columbus, Mississippi. While living in Mississippi, she also owned two
restaurants and worked as food and beverage director for a country club. Chef
Sarah has also taught culinary arts at Scottsdale (Arizona) Community College and
before teaching she spent many years as a working pastry cook and caterer.
In addition to On Cooking, Sarah Labensky is also co-author of On Baking, Web-
ster’s New World Dictionary of Culinary Arts and Applied Math for Food Service. She
is a past president of the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP).
Sarah’s passions include travel and mentoring young people to develop their
own professional paths. To combine those interests, she has conducted culinary
training programs in Russia, Korea, Moldova and Jamaica.

ALAN M. (SKIP) HAUSE

Chef Skip is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New
York. Upon graduation, Chef Skip worked in both restaurants and hotels before
settling in Arizona. For the past 20 years, he has owned and operated Fabulous
Food Fine Catering and Events. He also launched and operates Gertrude’s restau-
rant at the Desert Botanical Garden in Phoenix, Arizona. Chef Skip is involved in
day-to-day food production, planning and execution of catered events as well as
overseeing restaurant operations. A longtime member of the American Culinary
Federation, Chef Skip is passionate about all aspects of food and cooking. He
enjoys teaching and mentoring students and cooks, is active in the Careers through
Culinary Arts Program (C-Cap) and is a board member of the East Valley Institute
of Technology Culinary Program.
When not working in the kitchen, Chef Skip pursues his passions entertaining
friends, traveling, hiking, biking (both motor and pedal) and, of course, anything
to do with food. Chef Skip resides in Scottsdale, Arizona and summers in Kalispell,
Montana, with his wife, Chantal, and sons, Logan and Grayson.

PRISCILLA A. MARTEL
Priscilla Martel is a professional chef, educator and food writer with a special
interest in Mediterranean cuisines and artisan baking. She honed her cooking
skills at Restaurant du Village, a country French restaurant she opened in Chester,
Connecticut, in 1979. Today she operates All About Food, which holds several
baking patents and collaborates with food manufacturers and restaurants to create
innovative products, menus and marketing programs.
She is a visiting instructor at Boston University’s certificate program in the culi-
nary arts and in the Hospitality Management Program at Gateway Community
College in New Haven, Connecticut. She is also a contributing writer for Gourmet
Retailer among other food trade publications and the culinary director of American
Almond, a leading baking-industry ingredient manufacturer. To honor her com-
mitment to help young people prepare for their culinary careers, Priscilla Martel
advises Pro Start Culinary teams in Connecticut. She is co-author of On Baking
and Math for Bakers (DVD).

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 11 28/06/22 11:10

 This page is intentionally left blank

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 12 28/06/22 11:10

 Contents
1 Professionalism_______________________________ 33 3 Nutrition_________________________________________ 71
CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS 34 NUTRITION BASICS 72
The 18th Century—Boulanger’s Restaurant 34 Essential Nutrients 73
The Early 19th Century—Carême and Grande Cuisine 35 Carbohydrates 73
The Late 19th Century—Escoffier and Cuisine Classique 36 Lipids 74
The Mid-20th Century—Point and Nouvelle Cuisine 37 Proteins 75
The Late 20th and Early 21st Centuries—An American Culinary Vitamins 76
Revolution 37 Minerals 78
Modernist Cuisine 38 Water 78
MODERN FOOD SERVICE OPERATIONS 39 Phytochemicals 78
Culinary Technologies 39 TOOLS FOR HEALTHY EATING 79
Food Supplies 40 Dietary Guidelines for Americans 80
Consumer Concerns 41 MyPlate 80
THE MODERN KITCHEN BRIGADE 43 Nutrition Labeling 80
Menu Labeling 81
THE PROFESSIONAL CHEF 45 Government Oversight 81
Knowledge 45
Skill 46 NUTRITION, EATING OUT AND THE CHEF 82
Taste 46 Healthful Cooking Techniques 83
Judgment 46 Nutritional Analysis of Recipes 84
Dedication 46
Professional Ethics 47
Pride 47
Careers 47
4 Menus and Recipes___________________________ 85
THE MENU 86
Types of Menus 86
2 Food Safety and Sanitation_______________ 49 Menu Language 87
STANDARDIZED RECIPES 88
SANITATION 50 MEASUREMENTS AND CONVERSIONS 88
DIRECT BIOLOGICAL CONTAMINANTS 50 Measurement Formats 88
Bacteria 51 Measurement Systems 90
Parasites 55 Converting Grams and Ounces 90
Viruses 56 RECIPE CONVERSIONS 91
Fungi 57 Converting Total Yield 92
DIRECT CHEMICAL CONTAMINANTS 57 Converting Portion Size 92
Residual Chemicals 57 Additional Conversion Problems 93
Food Service Chemicals 58 CALCULATING UNIT COSTS, RECIPE COSTS
Toxic Metals 58 AND SELLING PRICES 94
DIRECT PHYSICAL CONTAMINANTS 58 Unit Costs 94
CROSS-CONTAMINATION 58 Yield Percentage 95
Personal Cleanliness 59 Recipe Costs 96
Dish and Equipment Cleanliness 60 Selling Prices 97
Food Storage 62 CONTROLLING FOOD COSTS 98
Food Labeling 63 Menu 99
Pest Management 63 Purchasing and Ordering 99
HAZARD ANALYSIS CRITICAL CONTROL Receiving 99
POINTS (HACCP) SYSTEMS 64 Storing 99
Issuing 99
FOOD ALLERGIES AND INTOLERANCES 67 Kitchen Procedures: Establishing Standard Portions 99
THE SAFE WORKER 68 Kitchen Procedures: Managing Waste 100
Personal Safety 68 Sales and Service 100
Fire Safety 69 RECIPE WRITING 101 100
First Aid 69 Elements of a Recipe Written for Publication 101
Other Considerations When Crafting a Recipe for Publication 102

13

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 13 28/06/22 11:10

 14 CONTENT S

5 Tools and Equipment_______________________ 103 INTERNATIONAL FLAVOR PRINCIPLES 148

HERBS AND SPICES 149
STANDARDS FOR TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 104 Herbs 149
KNIVES 105 Spices 152
Knife Construction 105 Herb and Spice Blends 158
Knife Shapes and Sharpening Equipment 105 Storing Herbs and Spices 159
Japanese Knives 107 Using Herbs and Spices 159
HAND TOOLS 107 SALT 160
MEASURING AND PORTIONING DEVICES 108 OILS 161
COOKWARE 110 VINEGARS 162
Cookware Metals and Heat Conduction 110 CONDIMENTS 163
Other Cookware Materials 111 WINES, BEERS AND DISTILLED SPIRITS 165
Nonstick Coatings 112 Wines 166
Common Cookware 112 Beers 169
STRAINERS AND SIEVES 113 Distilled Spirits 170
PROCESSING EQUIPMENT 115 Guidelines for Cooking with Alcoholic Beverages 172
STORAGE CONTAINERS 117
HEAVY EQUIPMENT 117
SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT FOR MODERN CULINARY
8 Dairy Products________________________________ 175
TECHNIQUES 121 MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS 176
BUFFET EQUIPMENT 122 Milk-Processing Techniques 176
Concentrated Milks 177
SAFETY EQUIPMENT 122 Cream 177
ENERGY CONSERVATION IN THE PROFESSIONAL Cultured Dairy Products 178
KITCHEN 124 Butter 179
Margarine 179
Storage of Milk and Milk Products 180
6 Knife Skills______________________________________ 125 CHEESE 180
Natural Cheeses 180
USING KNIVES SAFELY 126 Cheese Varieties 181
CARING FOR AND SHARPENING Processed Cheeses 190
Serving Cheeses 190
YOUR KNIVES 126
Storing Cheeses 191
GRIPPING YOUR KNIFE 128 Cooking with Cheese 191
CONTROLLING YOUR KNIFE 128
USING YOUR KNIFE 129
Slicing 129
Chopping 131
9 Mise en Place__________________________________ 193
Cutting Sticks and Dicing 132 MISE EN PLACE 194
Mincing 136 Creating a Prep List 195
Turning Vegetables 136 Quantity Planning 196
Making Parisiennes 137 SELECTING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 197
USING A MANDOLINE 137 MEASURING INGREDIENTS 197
Using a Spiral Slicer 137 PREPARING INGREDIENTS 198
Clarifying Butter 198
Toasting Nuts and Spices 199
7 Flavors and Flavorings_____________________ 139 Making Bread Crumbs 199
FLAVORING FOODS 199
FLAVOR AND TASTE 140 Bouquets Garni and Sachets 200
Tastes: Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter and Umami 140 Marinades 200
Factors Affecting Perception of Flavors 142 Brines 201
FLAVORING FOOD 144 Rubs and Pastes 201
Flavor Profiles 144 Steeping 201
Describing Aromas and Flavors in Food 145 PREPARING TO COOK 202
Classic Flavor Combinations 145 Breading 202
Amplifying Flavors 147 Battering 203
Experimenting with Flavor 147 Blanching and Parboiling 203
Making an Ice Bath 204

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 CONTENT S 15

10 Principles of Cooking____________________ 205 Pan Gravy 266

Pan Sauces 267
HEAT TRANSFER 206 Coulis 267
Conduction 206 CONTEMPORARY SAUCES 268
Convection 207 Salsa and Relish 269
Radiation 207 Vegetable Juice Sauces 269
THE EFFECTS OF HEAT 208 Broths 271
Foams 271
Proteins Coagulate 208
Flavored Oils 272
Starches Gelatinize 209
Sugars Caramelize 210 USING SAUCES 274
Water Evaporates 210
Fats Melt 210
DETERMINING DONENESS 210
INTRODUCTION TO COOKING METHODS 211
12 Soups___________________________________________ 287
CHARACTERISTICS OF SOUP 288
DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS 211
Broiling 213
CLEAR SOUPS 289
Grilling 214 Broths 289
Roasting and Baking 215 Broth-Based Soups 291
Barbecuing and Smoking 216 Consommés 292
Sautéing 216 THICK SOUPS 295
Stir-Frying 218 Cream Soups 295
Pan-Frying 219 Purée Soups 298
Deep-Frying 220 Adjusting the Consistency of Thick Soups 299
Oven-Frying 222 OTHER SOUPS 299
MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS 223 Bisques 299
Poaching 223 Chowders 301
Simmering 225 Cold Soups 302
Boiling 225 GARNISHING SOUPS 306
Steaming 226 Guidelines for Garnishing Soups 306
COMBINATION COOKING METHODS 227 Garnishing Suggestions 306
Braising 228 SOUP SERVICE 306
Stewing 228 Temperatures 307
Sous Vide 229 Portion Sizes 307

11 Stocks and Sauces_________________________ 233 13 Principles of Meat Cookery____________ 323

STOCKS 234 MUSCLE COMPOSITION OF MEATS 324
INGREDIENTS FOR STOCKS 235 INSPECTION AND GRADING OF MEATS 325
Bones 235 AGING MEATS 326
Mirepoix 235
Wet Aging 326
Seasonings 236
Dry Aging 327
PRINCIPLES OF STOCK MAKING 236
PURCHASING AND STORING MEATS 327
White Stock 238
Purchasing Meats 327
Brown Stock 240
Storing Meats 328
Remouillage 242
Fish Stock and Fish Fumet 242 PREPARING MEATS 329
Vegetable Stock 243 Tying and Trussing 329
Court Bouillon 244 Barding 329
Nage 245 Larding 330
Glaze 245 DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR MEATS 330
Infusion 246 Broiling and Grilling 330
SAUCES 247 Roasting 333
Thickening Agents for Sauces 247 Barbecue 338
Finishing Techniques for Sauces 251 Sautéing 341
CLASSIC SAUCE FAMILIES 251 Pan-Frying 343
Deep-Frying 345
The Béchamel Family 252
The Velouté Family 254 MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR MEAT 345
The Espagnole Family 256 Simmering 345
The Tomato Sauce Family 259 COMBINATION COOKING METHODS FOR MEATS 348
The Hollandaise Family 261 Braising 348
TRADITIONAL SAUCES 263 Stewing 350
Beurre Blanc and Beurre Rouge 263 Cooking Sous Vide 354
Compound Butters 265

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 16 CONTENT S

14 Beef_____________________________________________ 357 Fresh Ham 427

Hocks and Trotters 427
PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF BEEF 358 PURCHASING PORK 427
FOREQUARTER PRIMAL CUTS OF BEEF 358 NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR PORK 428
Chuck 358 BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR PORK 428
Brisket and Shank 360
Rib 360
Short Plate 360
HINDQUARTER PRIMAL CUTS OF BEEF 361
18 Poultry_________________________________________ 445
Short Loin 361 MUSCLE COMPOSITION OF POULTRY 446
Sirloin 361 IDENTIFYING POULTRY 448
Flank 362 Chicken 448
Round 362 Duck 450
BEEF ORGAN MEATS 363 Goose 450
NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR BEEF 363 Guinea Fowl 450
Pigeon 450
BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR BEEF 363 Turkey 450
Ratites 450
Livers, Gizzards, Hearts and Necks 451
15 Veal_____________________________________________ 381 Foie Gras 451
NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR POULTRY 451
PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF VEAL 382
INSPECTION AND GRADING OF POULTRY 451
FORESADDLE PRIMAL CUTS OF VEAL 382
Veal Shoulder 382
PURCHASING POULTRY 452
Veal Foreshank and Breast 382 Free-Range Poultry 452
Veal Rib 383 Air-Chilled Poultry 453
HINDSADDLE PRIMAL CUTS OF VEAL 384 STORING POULTRY 453
Veal Loin 384 BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR POULTRY 453
Veal Leg 384 MARINATING POULTRY 458
VEAL ORGAN MEATS 385 COOKING METHODS FOR POULTRY 458
Sweetbreads 385 DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR POULTRY 459
Calves’ Liver 385
Broiling and Grilling Poultry 459
Veal Kidneys 385
Roasting Poultry 461
PURCHASING VEAL 385 Poêléing Poultry 468
NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR VEAL 385 Sautéing Poultry 469
BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR VEAL 386 Pan-Frying Poultry 472
Deep-Frying Poultry 474
MOIST-HEAT AND COMBINATION COOKING METHODS
16 Lamb___________________________________________ 403 FOR POULTRY 475
Moist-Heat Cooking Methods: Poaching and Simmering
PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF LAMB 404 Poultry 475
Lamb Shoulder 404 Combination Cooking Methods: Braising and Stewing
Lamb Breast 404 Poultry 477
Lamb Rack 404
Lamb Loin 405
Lamb Leg 405 19 Game___________________________________________ 499
PURCHASING LAMB 406
FURRED OR GROUND GAME 500
Domestic vs. Imported Lamb 406
Antelope 500
Goat 406
Bison (American Buffalo) 500
NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR LAMB 407 Deer 501
BUTCHERING PROCEDURES FOR LAMB 407 Rabbit 501
Wild Boar 502
FEATHERED OR WINGED GAME 502
17 Pork_____________________________________________ 423 Partridge 503
Pheasant 503
PRIMAL AND SUBPRIMAL CUTS OF PORK 424 Quail 503
Pork Shoulder 424 NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR GAME 503
Boston Butt 424 PURCHASING AND STORING GAME 503
Pork Belly 425
Pork Loin 426 MARINATING FURRED GAME 504

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 CONTENT S 17

20 Fish and Shellfish__________________________ 511 Griddlecakes 597

Crêpes 598
STRUCTURE AND MUSCLE COMPOSITION OF FISH Cereals and Grains 599
AND SHELLFISH 512 COFFEE 601
Roasting Coffee 601
IDENTIFYING FISH 514
Grinding Coffee 602
Round Fish 514 Brewing Coffee 602
Flatfish 519 Tasting Coffee 604
IDENTIFYING SHELLFISH: MOLLUSKS 520 Flavored Coffees 604
Bivalves 521 Decaffeinated Coffee 605
Cephalopods 522 TEA AND TISANES 605
IDENTIFYING SHELLFISH: CRUSTACEANS 523 Tea Varieties 605
NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR FISH AND Tasting Tea 606
SHELLFISH 526 Tisanes (Herbal Teas) 606
Brewing Tea 607
INSPECTION AND GRADING OF FISH AND
SHELLFISH 526
PURCHASING AND STORING FISH AND SHELLFISH 526
Determining Freshness of Fish and Shellfish 527 22 Vegetables___________________________________ 617
Purchasing Fish and Shellfish 528 IDENTIFYING VEGETABLES 618
Storing Fish and Shellfish 529 Cabbages 618
FABRICATING PROCEDURES FOR FISH AND Fruit Vegetables 621
SHELLFISH 530 Gourds and Squashes 626
COOKING FISH AND SHELLFISH 539 Greens 628
Substituting Fish 539 Mushrooms and Truffles 630
Determining Doneness 540 Onions 631
Pods and Seeds 633
DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR FISH AND
Roots and Tubers 636
SHELLFISH 540 Stalk Vegetables 639
Broiling and Grilling 540 Baby Vegetables 642
Baking 542
Sautéing 544
NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR VEGETABLES 642
Pan-Frying 546 PURCHASING AND STORING FRESH VEGETABLES 642
Deep-Frying 547 Grading Vegetables 643
MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR FISH AND Purchasing Vegetables 643
SHELLFISH 549 Ripening Vegetables 643
Storing Vegetables 643
Steaming 549
Poaching 551 PURCHASING AND STORING PRESERVED
Simmering 554 VEGETABLES 644
COMBINATION COOKING METHODS FOR FISH AND Irradiated Vegetables 644
SHELLFISH 556 Canned Vegetables 644
Frozen Vegetables 645
SERVING RAW FISH AND SHELLFISH 557 Dried Vegetables 645
Raw Fish and Shellfish Dishes 557 COOKING METHODS FOR VEGETABLES 645
Sushi and Sashimi 557
Fiber Content and Vegetable Cookery 645
Acid/Alkali Reactions and Vegetable Cookery 646
Guidelines for Vegetable Cookery 647
21 Eggs and Breakfast_______________________ 583 Determining Doneness of Vegetables 647
Preserving Nutritional Qualities in Vegetables 648
EGGS 584 DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR
Egg Storage and Sanitation 585 VEGETABLES 648
Egg Products 586
Broiling and Grilling 648
NUTRITION INFORMATION FOR EGGS 586 Roasting and Baking 650
WHIPPED EGG WHITES 587 Sautéing 651
COOKING METHODS FOR EGGS 587 Stir-Frying 653
Pan-Roasting 654
DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR EGGS 587
Baking 587
MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR VEGETABLES 657
Sautéing 589 Blanching and Parboiling 657
Pan-Frying 593 Boiling 657
Griddling 594 Steaming 661
Microwaving 662
MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS FOR EGGS 595 Combination Cooking Methods: Braising and Stewing
In-Shell Cooking (Simmering) 595 Vegetables 663
Poaching 595 Puréeing Vegetables 664
BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH 596 PRESERVING VEGETABLES 666
Breakfast Meats 597

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 18 CONTENT S

23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta___________ 685 Fruit Salads 782

Gelatin Salads 782
POTATOES 686
Identifying Potatoes 686
Nutrition of Potatoes 687
Purchasing and Storing Potatoes 688
26 Fruits___________________________________________ 805
Cooking Methods for Potatoes 689 IDENTIFYING FRUITS 806
GRAINS 697 Berries 806
Identifying Grains 697 Citrus 808
Nutrition of Grains 702 Exotic Fruits 810
Purchasing and Storing Grains 702 Grapes 812
Cooking Methods for Grains 702 Melons 813
Pomes 815
PASTA 707 Stone Fruits 817
Identifying Pasta 707 Tropical Fruits 818
Nutrition of Pasta 710
Purchasing and Storing Pasta 710
NUTRITION OF FRUITS 822
Making Fresh Pasta 710 PURCHASING FRESH FRUITS 822
Cooking Method for Pasta 714 Grading 822
Ripening 823
Purchasing 823

24 Healthy Cooking and Storing 823

PRESERVING FRUITS 824
Special Diets_________________________________ 737 Irradiation 824
Acidulation 824
PRINCIPLES OF HEALTHY COOKING 738 Canning 824
Portion Size 738 Freezing 824
Rethinking the Center of the Plate 739 Drying 825
RECIPE MODIFICATION 740 JUICING FRUITS 825
Reduce, Replace or Eliminate 740 COOKING METHODS FOR FRUITS 826
Modifying Recipes 741 Determining Doneness 826
ACCOMMODATING SPECIAL DIETS 743 Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Fruits 826
Low-Sodium Diets 743 Moist-Heat Cooking Methods for Fruits 830
Low-Sugar Diets 744 Making Fruit Preserves 832
Low-Fat Diets 745
Dairy-Free Diets 746
Gluten-Free Diets 747
Allergen-Free Diets 748 27 Sandwiches__________________________________ 841
VEGETARIAN AND VEGAN DIETS 749 INGREDIENTS FOR SANDWICHES 842
Ingredients for Vegetarian and Vegan Diets 750 Sandwich Breads 842
Vegetarian and Vegan Cuisine: Focusing on Plant-Based Sandwich Spreads 842
Ingredients 753 Sandwich Fillings 843
TYPES OF SANDWICHES 845
Hot Sandwiches 845
25 Salads and Salad Dressings___________ 763 Cold Sandwiches 846
SANDWICH MISE EN PLACE 849
IDENTIFYING SALAD GREENS 764
Lettuce 764
PRESENTING AND GARNISHING SANDWICHES 849
Chicory 765
Other Salad Greens and Ingredients 766
Nutrition of Salads 767
Purchasing and Storing Salad Greens 768
28 Charcuterie__________________________________ 863
PREPARING SALAD GREENS 768 FORCEMEATS 864
Tearing and Cutting Salad Greens 768 EQUIPMENT FOR PREPARING FORCEMEAT 864
Washing Salad Greens 769 FORCEMEAT INGREDIENTS 865
Drying Salad Greens 770 Meats 865
SALAD DRESSINGS 771 Fats 866
Vinaigrette Dressings 771 Binders 866
Mayonnaise-Based Dressings 773 Seasonings 866
Emulsified Vinaigrette Dressings 775 Garnishes 867
SALAD PREPARATION METHODS 776 PREPARING FORCEMEATS 867
Tossed Green Salads 777 Country-Style Forcemeats 867
Composed Green Salads 778 Basic Forcemeats 869
Bound Salads 779 Mousseline Forcemeats 871
Vegetable Salads 781 Quenelles 872

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 CONTENT S 19

USING FORCEMEATS 873

Aspic Jelly 873 31 Quick Breads________________________________ 959
Terrines 874 MIXING METHODS FOR QUICK BREADS 960
Pâtés en Croûte 877 Biscuit Method 961
Galantines 879 Muffin Method 963
Sausages 881 Creaming Method 965
SALT CURING, BRINING AND SMOKING 883 QUALITIES OF QUICK BREADS 967
Salt Curing 883
Brining 883
Smoking 883
Cured Pork Products 887 32 Yeast Breads________________________________ 975
Other Cured Meat Products 888
YEAST 976
SAUCE CHAUD-FROID 888 Types of Yeast 976
Substituting Yeasts 977
Natural Yeast Leaveners: Sourdough Starter 978
29 Hors d’Oeuvre______________________________ 901 ARTISAN BREAD 979
COLD HORS D’OEUVRE 902 PRODUCTION STEPS FOR YEAST BREADS 980
Canapés 902 Step 1: Scaling the Ingredients 980
Crudités 906 Step 2: Mixing and Kneading the Dough 980
Dips 906 Step 3: Fermenting the Dough 981
Caviar 907 Step 4: Punching Down the Dough 982
Other Cold Hors d’Oeuvre 908 Step 5: Portioning the Dough 982
Step 6: Rounding the Portions 982
HOT HORS D’OEUVRE 908 Step 7: Make-Up: Shaping the Portions 982
Filled Pastry Shells 908 Step 8: Proofing the Products 984
Skewers 909 Step 9: Baking the Products 984
Meatballs 910 Step 10: Cooling and Storing the Finished Products 985
Hors d’Oeuvre Wrapped in Cheese, Meat or Vegetables 910
ROLLED-IN DOUGHS 989
Hors d’Oeuvre Wrapped in Dough 911
Other Hot Hors d’Oeuvre 914 QUALITIES OF BREAD 991
ANTIPASTI, MEZZE, TAPAS AND ZAKUSKI 914
SERVING HORS D’OEUVRE 914
Butler Service 915 33 Pies, Pastries and Cookies___________ 1009
Buffet Service 915
Buffet Platters 916 PIES AND TARTS 1010
Crusts 1010
Fillings 1017
Assembling Pies and Tarts 1023
30 Principles of the Bakeshop_____________ 931 Storing Pies and Tarts 1023
BAKESHOP TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 932 CLASSIC PASTRIES 1023
Puff Pastry 1023
BAKESHOP INGREDIENTS 933 Éclair Paste 1027
Flours 933 Meringue 1029
Sugar and Sweeteners 937
COOKIES 1031
Fats 941
Chemical Leavening Agents 942 Mixing Methods for Cookie Dough 1031
Thickening Agents 943 Make-Up Methods for Cookies 1032
Flavorings 944 Storing Cookies 1034
Nuts 948
MEASURING INGREDIENTS IN THE BAKESHOP 951
Baker’s Percentage 952 34 Cakes and Frostings____________________ 1057
Calculating Baker’s Percentage 953
CAKE INGREDIENTS 1058
MIXING METHODS 955
MIXING METHODS FOR CAKES 1059
THE BAKING PROCESS 956 Creamed-Fat Cakes 1059
Gases Form 956 Whipped-Egg Cakes 1062
Gases Are Trapped 956
Starches Gelatinize 956 PANNING, BAKING AND COOLING CAKES 1068
Proteins Coagulate 956 Preparing Cake Pans 1069
Fats Melt 957 Filling Cake Pans 1069
Water Evaporates 957 Baking Temperatures 1070
Sugars Caramelize 957 Altitude Adjustments for Baking 1071
Carryover Baking 957 Determining Doneness of Cakes 1071
Staling 957 Cooling Cakes 1071

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 20 CONTENT S

FROSTINGS 1072 PRESENTATION TECHNIQUES FOR THE PLATE 1131

Buttercream 1073 Choosing Plates 1131
Foam Frosting 1076 Arranging Foods on Plates 1132
Fudge Frosting 1076 Decorating Plates 1136
Fondant 1077 SMALL PLATES 1139
Glaze 1078
Royal Icing 1079
Ganache 1079
ASSEMBLING AND DECORATING CAKES 1081 37 Buffet Presentation_____________________ 1143
Assembling Cakes 1082 BUFFETS 1144
Simple Decorating Techniques 1082 Planning the Buffet 1144
Piping Techniques 1083 Communicating the Plan 1146
STORING CAKES 1087 DESIGNING THE BUFFET 1147
Arranging the Tables 1147
Arranging Food on Serving Pieces 1151
35 Custards, Creams, Frozen Arranging Items on the Buffet Table 1152
PRESENTING AND MAINTAINING THE BUFFET 1153
Desserts and Dessert Sauces_______ 1097 Controlling Costs 1153
CUSTARDS 1098 Keeping Hot Foods Hot 1154
Keeping Cold Foods Cold 1155
Stirred Custards 1098
Replenishing Foods 1155
Baked Custards 1102
Serving the Guests 1156
Soufflés 1105
CREAMS 1107
Crème Chantilly 1107 Appendix I_______________________________________ 1159
Bavarian Cream 1108
Chiffon 1109 MEASUREMENT AND CONVERSION CHARTS 1159
Mousse 1110
FROZEN DESSERTS 1111 Appendix II______________________________________ 1161
Ice Cream and Gelato 1112
Sorbet and Sherbet 1114 FRESH, LOCALLY GROWN PRODUCE AVAILABILITY
Still-Frozen Desserts 1114 CHART 1161
DESSERT SAUCES 1115
Fruit Purées 1115
Caramel Sauce 1115
Glossary___________________________________________ 1165
Chocolate Syrup 1116
ASSEMBLING DESSERTS 1117 Bibliography and Recommended
Reading____________________________________________ 1185
36 Plate Presentation______________________ 1127 Index________________________________________________ 1189
PRESENTATION TECHNIQUES FOR FOOD 1128
Preparing Foods Properly 1128
Cutting Foods 1129
Molding Foods 1130

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 Recipes
8 Dairy Products Small Tomato Sauces 12 Soups
Creole 261
Crème Fraîche 178 Spanish 261 Beef Broth 290
Herb Cheese Spread 182 Milanaise 261 Hearty Vegetable Beef Soup 292
Ricotta Cheese 183 Beef Consommé 294
Hollandaise 262
Fromage Fort 188 Cream of Broccoli Soup 297
Small Hollandaise Sauces
Classic Cheese Fondue 191 Cream of asparagus, cauliflower,
Béarnaise 263
corn, pea or spinach soup 297
Choron 263
Purée of Split Pea Soup 298
11 Stocks and Sauces Foyot 263
Shrimp Bisque 300
White Stock 239 Grimrod 263
New England–Style Clam Chowder 302
Brown Stock 241 Maltaise 263
Vichyssoise (Cold Potato-Leek Soup) 303
Fish Stock 242 Mousseline (Chantilly Sauce) 263
Chilled Melon Soup 304
Fish Fumet 243 Beurre Blanc 264
Crisp Prosciutto Chips 304
Vegetable Stock 244 Beurre Rouge 265
Gazpacho 305
Court Bouillon 244 Lemon-Dill 265
Chicken Soup with Vegetables and
Dashi 246 Herb Butter Sauce 265
Spices 308
Béchamel 252 Recipes for Compound Butters
Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls 309
Small Béchamel Sauces Basil Butter 266
Matzo Balls 309
Cheese 254 Herb Butter 266
French Onion Soup 310
Cream Sauce 254 Chile Lime Butter 266
Miso Soup 311
Mornay 254 Lobster or Crayfish Butter 266
Phô Bo (Hanoi Beef and Noodle Soup) 312
Nantua 254 Maître d’Hôtel Butter 266
Minestrone 313
Soubise (Modern) 254 Red Pepper Butter 266
Lamb Trotters Soup 314
Velouté 254 Shallot Butter 266
Tomato Soup 315
Small Fish Velouté Sauces Red Pepper Coulis 268
Cheddar and Leek Soup 316
Bercy 255 Pico de Gallo (Tomato Salsa) 269
Cream of Potato Soup 317
Cardinal 255 Carrot Juice Sauce 270
Sausage, White Bean and Kale Soup 318
Normandy 255 Wild Mushroom Foam 272
Indian-style Crab Soup 319
Allemande Sauce 255 Basil Oil 273
Roasted Corn Chowder 320
Small Allemande Sauces Rich Brown Vegetable Stock 276
Borsch (Chilled Beet Soup) 321
Aurora 256 Hollandaise, Blender Method 276
Chilled Cucumber and Yogurt Soup 322
Horseradish 256 Red Wine Marinade 277
Mushroom 256 Duxelles Sauce 277
Poulette 256 Fresh Tomato Sauce for Pasta 278 13 Principles of Meat Cookery
Suprême Sauce 256 Fresh Tomato Vinaigrette for Pasta 278 Grilled Lamb Chops with Herb Butter 332
Small Suprême Sauces Mole 279 Roast Prime Rib of Beef au Jus 335
Albufera 256 Sour Cream Dipping Sauce 279 Pulled Pork Sandwiches 340
Hungarian 256 Bolognese Sauce 280 Sautéed Veal Scallops with White Wine
Ivory 256 Orange Gastrique 280 Lemon Sauce 343
Espagnole (Brown Sauce) 257 Citrus Gastrique 281 Breaded Veal Cutlets 344
Demi-Glace 257 Orange Butter Sauce 281 New England Boiled Dinner 347
Vegetable Jus Lié 258 Basil Pesto Sauce 281 Aunt Ruthie’s Pot Roast 350
Small Brown Sauces Walnut Pesto 281 Brown Beef Stew 352
Bordelaise 258 Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto 281 Sous Vide Short Ribs 356
Chasseur (Hunter’s Sauce) 259 Arugula and Pecan Pesto 281
Châteaubriand 259 Citrus Beurre Blanc 282
Chevreuil 259 Saunth (Sweet Chutney) 282 14 Beef
Madeira or Port 259 Southeast Asian-Style Peanut Sauce 283 Flat Iron Steak with Coffee Beans 367
Marchand De Vin 259 Vegetarian Peanut Sauce 283 Marinated London Broil 368
Mushroom 259 Coconut Sauce 283 Châteaubriand 368
Périgueux 259 Tomato Chutney 284 Beef Wellington 369
Piquant 259 Spanish Romesco Sauce 284 Rendang Daging 370
Poivrade 259 Mignonette Sauce 285 Italian Country Meatballs 370
Robert 259 Nuoc Cham (Vietnamese Dipping Sauce) 285 Minute Steak Dijonaise 371
Tomato Sauce 260 Persillade 286 Beef Stroganoff 372

21

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 22 RECIPES

Entrecôtes Bordelaise 372 17 Pork Mielie Meal Dumplings

Pepper Steak 373 with Chicken Stew 490
Beef Fajitas 374 Carolina Barbecued Ribs 433
Lavender and Spice-Crusted Duck
Thai Beef Salad 374 Beer-Marinated Pork Tenderloin 433
Breast with Apricot Compote 491
Braised Oxtails and Barley Stew 375 Pork Chimichurri Kabobs 434
Duck Confit 492
Swiss Steak 376 Fresh Roasted Ham 435
Roast Duckling 493
Braised Short Ribs of Beef 376 Chinese-Style Barbecued Spareribs 435
Chicken Finger-Strips 494
Orange-Scented Braised Pork Loin with Prunes 436
Turkey Scallopine with Capers and
Short Ribs of Beef 377 Sous Vide Rosemary Garlic Pork
Lemon 495
Ginger Braised Short Ribs Tenderloin 437
Sautéed Chicken Livers 495
of Beef 377 Escalope de Porc à la Normande
Ostrich Stew with Mango Salsa 496
Hungarian Goulash 377 (Pork Scallops with Apples) 438
Mango Salsa 496
Beef Bourguignon 378 Nataing (Cambodian-Style
Bangkok-Style Deep-Fried Chicken
Chili Con Carne 379 Red Pork) 439
Wings 497
Chili with Beans 379 Cambodian-Style Red Vegetarian
Asian-Style Chile Dipping Sauce 498
Venison Chili 379 Stir-Fry 439
Sautéed Foie Gras on Wild Mushroom
Chili-Stuffed Baked Pan-Fried Herb-Brined Pork
Duxelles with Toasted Brioche 498
Sweet Potatoes 379 Chops with Black Pepper
Chili-Stuffed Bread Bowl 379 Cream Gravy 440
Carpaccio 380 Stuffed Pork Chops 441 19 Game
Carnitas Tostada (Mexican Pulled Red Wine Marinade 504
Pork and Corn Tortillas) 442 Grilled Rosemary Quail 506
15 Veal Jambalaya 443 Game Pie 506
Wood-Grilled Veal Chops with Basil Cajun Spice Mix 443 Braised Rabbit with Orecchiette Pasta 507
Butter 393 Thai-Style Tea-Smoked Ribs 444 Braised Rabbit with Chorizo 508
Weisswurst with Braised Red Roast Pheasant with Cognac
Cabbage and Rösti Potatoes 393 and Apples 509
Sautéed Veal Scallops with Calvados 394
18 Poultry
Venison and Black Bean Chili 510
Veal Marsala 395 White Wine Marinade 458
Wild Mushroom Veal Marsala 395 Grilled Chicken Breast with Red
Veal Cordon Bleu 396 Pepper Butter 460 20 Fish and Shellfish
Turkey Cordon Bleu 396 Grilled Marinated Chicken Breasts 461 Broiled Black Sea Bass with Herb
Veal Pojarski 397 Roast Turkey with Chestnut Butter and Sautéed Leeks 542
Sweetbreads Grenoble 398 Dressing and Giblet Gravy 464 Baked Tilapia 543
Sautéed Calves’ Liver with Onions 399 Poêlé of Chicken with Pearl Onions Sautéed Halibut with Three-Color
Veal Marengo 400 and Mushrooms 468 Peppers and Spanish Olives 545
Osso Buco 401 Chicken Sauté with Onions, Garlic Pan-Fried Trout 547
Veal Fricassee 402 and Basil 471 Deep-Fried Catfish Fillets with Tartar
Pan-Fried Chicken with Pan Gravy 473 Sauce 548
Spicy Fried Chicken Tenders with Herb Steamed Salmon with Lemon and
16 Lamb Buttermilk Dressing 474 Olive Oil 550
Turkish Spicy Lamb Kebabs 412 Poached Breast of Chicken with Red Snapper en Papillote 551
Chimichurri Sauce 412 Tarragon Sauce 476 Whole Poached Salmon 553
Shish Kebab 413 Chicken Fricassee 479 Fillets of Sole Bonne Femme 554
Roast Leg of Karoo Lamb with Herbs Chicken Kapitan 481 Boiled Lobster 555
and Lemon 414 Chicken Yakitori 482 Arctic Char with Orange Beurre Blanc 556
Rack of Spring Lamb with Mint Pesto 415 Guinea-Fowl Casserole 482 Nigiri Sushi 558
Honey Mustard Denver Ribs 415 Roast Cornish Game Hen with Zushi (Sushi Rice) 559
Stuffed Leg of Lamb 416 Wild Rice Stuffing 483 Roasted Monkfish with Bacon
Blanquette of Lamb 416 Chicken Leg Stuffed with Mushrooms and Garlic 560
Saffron and Spice Braised Lamb and Prosciutto 484 Teriyaki Salmon 561
Shanks 418 Sous Vide Chicken Legs Stuffed Oven-Fried Pecan Catfish 561
Irish Lamb Stew 419 with Mushrooms and Prosciutto 484 Tropical Oven-Fried Catfish 561
Lamb in Indian-Style Coconut Curry Dada Ayam Percik 485 Cha Ca (Hanoi-Style Fish with Dill) 562
Sauce 420 Chicken Stuffed with Spinach and Macadamia Nut–Crusted Halibut
Goat in Indian-Style Coconut Ricotta Cheese in Saffron Sauce 486 with Red Onion, Tomato and
Curry Sauce 420 Lemongrass Chicken Lettuce Wrap 487 Balsamic Salsa 563
Moroccan-Style Lamb Tagine with Chicken and Mushroom Crêpes with Red Onion, Tomato and
Preserved Lemon 421 Sauce Mornay 488 Balsamic Salsa 563
Moroccan-Style Preserved Lemons 421 Dhaniya Murg Blue Crab Cakes 564
Lamb Navarin 422 (Coriander Chicken) 488 Miso-Glazed Broiled Black Cod 565
Coq au Vin 489 Sweet and Sour Fish 566

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 RECIPES 23

Poached Halibut with Chanterelles, Cinnamon French Toast 615 23 Potatoes, Grains and Pasta
Fiddlehead Ferns and Wild Baked Banana Praline French Toast 615
Mushroom Foam 567 Baked Potatoes 690
Popovers 616
Paupiettes of Sole with Mousseline Twice-Baked Potatoes 690
Onion Popovers 616
of Shrimp 568 Gratin Dauphinois 691
Clams Casino 569 Potato and Celery Root Gratin 691
Oysters Rockefeller 570
22 Vegetables Lyonnaise Potatoes 692
Pan-Seared Diver Scallops with Grilled Vegetable Skewers 650 Deep-Fried Potatoes 694
Squash Three Ways 571 Grilled Sliced Vegetables 650 Mashed Potatoes 696
Kabocha Squash Purée 572 Baked Butternut Squash, Cumin Garlic Mashed Potatoes 696
Bouillabaisse (Provençal Fish Stew) 572 Yogurt and Pumpkin Seeds 651 Horseradish Mashed Potatoes 696
Rouille 573 Sautéed Mushrooms with Garlic Mashed Sweet Potatoes
Fried Oysters with Rémoulade Sauce 573 and Thyme 652 or Rutabagas 696
Fried Calamari with Lemon, Olive Stir-Fried Asparagus with Shiitake Simmered Rice 704
and Pepper Relish 574 Mushrooms 653 Risotto Milanese 705
Maryland-Style Steamed Blue Crabs 574 Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp and Risotto with Radicchio
Steamed Mussels with Leeks and Creole Rémoulade 654 (al Radicchio) 705
Carrots 575 Pan-Roasted Brussels Sprouts 655 Risotto with Four Cheeses
Paella 576 Beer-Battered Onion Rings 656 (al Quattro Formaggi) 705
Crawfish Étouffée 577 Green Beans with Herbed Vinaigrette Farro Risotto 705
Soft-Poached Salmon with Root and Toasted Hazelnuts 658 Classic Rice Pilaf 706
Vegetables and Pernod Beurre White Bean Salad 660 Spanish Rice 707
Blanc 578 Broccoli Amandine 662 Red Rice Pilaf 707
Assam Pedas Muar 580 Braised Celery with Basil 664 Bulgur Pilaf 707
Seviche 581 Parsnip Purée 665 Barley Pilaf 707
Fin Fish Carpaccio with Lemon Thyme Turnip or Sunchoke Purée 665 Basic Pasta Dough 712
Vinaigrette 581 Winter Squash Purée 665 Garlic-Herb Pasta Dough 712
Norimaki Zushi 582 Giardiniera (Pickled Vegetables) 667 Spinach Pasta Dough 712
Grilled Portabella Mushrooms 669 Tomato Pasta Dough 712
Garlic Timbales 669 Château Potatoes 717
21 Eggs and Breakfast Broccoli or Cauliflower Timbales 669 Parisienne Potatoes and
Shirred Eggs with Ham 588 Oven-Roasted Garlic 670 Noisette Potatoes 717
Quiche Lorraine 589 Fennel Gratin 670 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes 718
Scrambled Eggs 590 Abalone & Pak Choy 671 Scalloped Potatoes 718
Shrimp and Avocado Omelet 591 Mushroom and Leek Tart 672 Delmonico Potatoes 719
Asparagus Frittata with Goat Cheese Maple-Glazed Carrots 673 German-Style Potato Salad 719
and Parsley Radish Salad 593 Duxelles 673 Potato Pancakes 720
Poached Eggs 596 Ratatouille 674 Rösti Potatoes 720
Buttermilk Pancakes 598 Beet and Corn Salad 675 Cheddar Cheese Rösti Potatoes 720
Blueberry Pancakes 598 Sautéed Broccoli Rabe 675 Duchesse Potatoes 721
Apple-Pecan Pancakes 598 Pan-Fried Eggplant with Potato Croquettes 721
Crêpes 599 Tomato Sauce 676 Dauphine Potatoes 722
Cheese Blintz 599 Stir-Fried Snow Peas 676 Lorette Potatoes 722
Savory Crêpes 599 Tempura Vegetables with Dipping Potato Gnocchi 723
Savory Crêpes Florentine 599 Sauce 677 Polenta 724
Crunchy Granola 600 Panko Crust Tempura 677 Creamy Polenta with Wild Mushrooms 725
Shakshuka Eggs 609 Shrimp Tempura 677 Oatmeal with Bananas and Cinnamon 725
Eggs Benedict 610 Deep-Fried Carrots or Leeks for Grits and Cheddar Soufflé 726
Poached Eggs Florentine 610 Garnishing 678 Saffron Rice 727
Poached Eggs Norwegian Style 610 Glazed Pearl Onions 678 Pilau (Indian-Style Rice Pilaf) 727
Poached Eggs Princess Style 610 Red Beet Purée 679 Thai-Style Fried Rice 728
Poached Eggs Sardou 610 Carrot Ginger Purée 679 Chinese-Style Fried Rice 728
Avocado, Bacon and Red Rice Collard Greens 680 Forbidden Fried Rice 728
Breakfast Salad 611 Warm Zucchini, Red Pepper and Wild Rice and Cranberry Stuffing 729
Fried Egg BLT Sandwich 611 Chickpea Salad 680 Hoppin’ John 729
Scotch Eggs 612 Red Beans and Rice with Andouille 681 Quinoa, Beet, Squash and Spinach Salad 730
Corned Beef Hash 612 Refried Beans 681 Fettuccine Alfredo 730
Tortilla Española (Spanish Egg and Braised Red Cabbage with Apples 682 Fettuccine Carbonara 731
Onion Omelet) 613 Butter-Braised Honey Carrots 682 Macaroni and Cheese 732
Cheese Soufflé 613 Artichokes Hollandaise 683 Baked Macaroni and Cheese 732
Waffles 614 Baechu-Kimchee (Korean Spicy Macaroni and Cheese with
Pecan Waffles 614 Cabbage) 684 Ham and Tomato 732

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 24 RECIPES

Baked Ziti with Fresh Tomato Sauce 733 Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Arugula, Capicola Ham and
Vegetable Lasagna 734 Dressing 794 Provolone Panino 856
Soba Noodles with Chicken and Green Curly Endive, Apple and Gorgonzola Cubano (Cuban Grilled Ham and
Onions 735 Salad 795 Pork Sandwich) 856
Spaetzle 736 Caprese Salad 795 Grilled Chicken, Avocado and
Hinava (Borneo Marinated Fish Salad) 796 Vegetable Wrap 857
Greek Salad 796 Grilled Cheese with Arugula, Sun-Dried
24  ealthy Cooking and Special
H New Potato Salad with Mustard Tomatoes and Bacon 857
Diets and Dill 797 Reuben Sandwich 858
Modified Beef Stroganoff Potato Salad 797 Monte Cristo Sandwich 858
(Low-Calorie, Low-Fat) 743 Creamy Coleslaw 798 Kentucky Hot Brown Sandwich 859
Vegan Stroganoff 755 Egg Salad 798 Muffuletta Sandwich 860
Southwestern Black Bean Soup Tuna Salad 799 Pan Bagnat (Provençal Tuna Sandwich) 861
(Gluten-Free, Vegan) 757 Farro, White Bean and Cucumber Saucisson Tartine 862
Falafel (Vegetarian) 758 Salad with Spiced Dressing 799 Radish and Butter Tartine 862
Tofu and Walnut Tabouli Couscous Salad 800 Grilled Asparagus Tartine 862
(Gluten-Free, Vegan) 758 Tabouli 801
Mushroom Bolognese (Vegan) 759 Raw Kale and Avocado Salad with
Polenta Vegetable Tart (Vegan) 760 Carrots, Raisins and Lemon
28 Charcuterie
Dal Bhat (Indian-Style Lentil Stew Dressing 802 Pâté Spice 866
with Rice) (Gluten-Free, Vegan) 761 Panzanella (Italian Bread Salad) 803 Country-Style Forcemeat 868
Pan-Seared Tofu Provençal Cranberry Orange Gelatin Salad 804 Basic Forcemeat 870
(Gluten-Free, Vegan) 762 Mousseline Forcemeat 872
Chia Pudding (Gluten-Free, Vegan) 762 Pâté Dough 878
26 Fruits Hot Smoked Trout 886
Broiled Grapefruit 827 Hot Smoked Salmon 886
25 Salads and Salad Dressings Warm Baked Peaches or Mayonnaise Chaud-Froid 888
Basic Vinaigrette Dressing 772 Nectarines 827 Basic Game Forcemeat 891
Dijon Vinaigrette 772 Savory Fruit Compote 828 Liver Terrine 892
Herb Vinaigrette 772 Apple Fritters 829 Pork Rillettes 893
Mayonnaise 774 Banana Fritters 829 Salmon and Sea Bass Terrine with
Aïoli (Garlic Mayonnaise) 774 Pears Poached in Red Wine 830 Spinach and Basil 894
Caesar Dressing 776 Dried Fruit Compote 831 Vegetable Terrine 895
Mesclun Salad with Raspberry Mango, Pineapple and Strawberry Vegetable Terrine in Brioche 896
Vinaigrette 778 Salad with Coconut Cream 833 Roasted Red Pepper Mousse 897
Salad Niçoise 779 Pineapple Papaya Salsa 833 Broccoli Mousse 897
Chutney Chicken Salad 780 Watermelon and Cherry Salad with Salmon Mousse 897
Tomato and Asparagus Salad Fresh Mint Syrup 834 Chopped Chicken Liver 898
with Fresh Mozzarella 782 Baked Apples 834 Breakfast Sausage Patties 898
Molded Gazpacho Salad 784 Grilled Fruit Kebabs 835 Spicy Italian Sausage 899
Molded Gazpacho Salad Cherry Confit 835 Mild Italian Sausage 899
with Shrimp 784 Braised Rhubarb 836 Maple Sage Sausage 899
Garlic Croutons 785 Berry Compote 836 Thai Basil and Ginger Sausage 899
Carrot Ginger Miso Dressing 785 Applesauce 837 Chorizo 899
Raspberry Vinaigrette 786 Fresh Cranberry-Orange Relish 837 Gravlax 900
Fat-Free Vinaigrette 786 Jalapeño-Cranberry Relish 837
Blue Cheese Vinaigrette 787 Mango Chutney 838
Poppy Seed Dressing 787 Candied Citrus Rind 839
29 Hors d’Oeuvre
Sauce Gribiche 788 Compressed Fresh Watermelon 840 Hummus 907
Thousand Island Dressing 788 Lamb Satay 909
Herb Buttermilk Dressing 789 Swedish Meatballs 910
Roquefort Dressing 789 27 Sandwiches Rumaki 911
Low-Fat Blue Cheese Dressing 790 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich 851 Spanakopita 912
Tartar Sauce 790 Club Sandwich 852 Stuffed Wontons with Apricot Sauce 913
Rémoulade Sauce 791 Mahi-Mahi Fish Taco 853 Apricot Sauce 913
Creole Rémoulade 791 Hamburger 854 Buckwheat Blini 917
Sherry Walnut Vinaigrette 791 Cheeseburger 854 Baked Wonton Crisps 917
Aloo Raita (Yogurt With Potatoes) 792 Bacon Blue Cheeseburger 854 Tortilla Cups with Grilled Chicken
Carrot Salad 792 Mushroom Burger 854 Pico de Gallo 918
Spinach and Edamame Salad 793 California Burger 854 Pimento Cheese 919
Ribbon Salad of Zucchini, Carrots, Blended Mushroom Burger 854 Pimento Cheese and Olive Crostini 919
Green Beans and Tomatoes 793 Turkey Burger 855 Baba Ghanoush 919

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 24 28/06/22 11:10

 RECIPES 25

Tapenade 920 Challah 999 Linzer Cookies 1051

Guacamole 920 Brioche 1000 Sugar Cookies 1052
Spinach and Artichoke Dip 921 Large Brioche à Tête 1001 Decorative Cookie Icing 1052
Brandade de Morue (French Salt Cod Raisin Brioche 1001 Gingerbread Cookies 1053
Spread) 922 Brioche for Sandwiches 1001 Spritz Cookies 1054
Sautéed Garlic Croutons 922 Savory Cheese and Herb Brioche 1001 Lacy Pecan Cookies 1055
Date and Chorizo Rumaki 923 Jumbo Cinnamon Buns 1002 Tulipe Cookies 1056
Stuffed Figs with Taleggio and Powdered Sugar Glaze 1002
Orange Basil Glaze 923 Pecan Sticky Buns 1003
Stuffed Mushroom Caps 924 Danish Pastries 1004
34 Cakes and Frostings
Escargots in Garlic Butter 924 Fillings for Danish Pastries 1006 American Poundcake 1060
Rosemary and Garlic Cream Cheese Filling 1006 French-Style Fruitcake 1061
Grilled Shrimp 925 Apricot Filling 1007 High-Ratio Yellow Cake 1062
Chèvre Tarts 926 Ricotta Filling 1007 Classic Genoise 1063
Arancini (Deep-Fried Rice Balls) 927 Almond Paste Filling 1007 Chocolate Genoise 1063
Tuna Tartar 927 Kugelhopf 1008 Classic Spongecake 1064
Kachori (Pea-Stuffed Fried Pastry) 928 Swiss Jelly Roll 1065
Cha Gio (Deep-Fried Vietnamese Chocolate Spongecake 1065
Spring Rolls) 929
33 Pies, Pastries and Cookies Chocolate Angel Food Cake 1066
Stuffed Cherry Tomato Bites 930 Basic Pie Dough 1012 Vanilla Angel Food Cake 1067
Sweet Dough 1013 Lemon Angel Food Cake 1067
Basic Cream Pie 1018 Orange Chiffon Cake 1068
31 Quick Breads Chocolate Cream Pie 1018 Lemon Chiffon Cake 1068
Country Biscuits 962 Banana Cream Pie 1018 Gluten-Free Orange Chiffon Cake 1068
Blueberry Muffins 964 Coconut Cream Pie I 1018 Pan Coating 1069
Cranberry Orange Muffins 964 Coconut Cream Pie II 1018 Simple Buttercream 1073
Pecan Spice Muffins 964 Apple-Cranberry Pie 1019 Light Chocolate Buttercream 1073
Cinnamon Sugar Muffins 965 Apple-Rhubarb Pie 1019 Lemon Buttercream 1073
Sour Cream Muffins 966 Blueberry Pie Filling 1020 Italian Buttercream 1074
Streusel Topping 967 Cherry Pie 1021 Chocolate Italian Buttercream 1075
Chocolate Cherry Scones 969 Pumpkin Pie 1022 Coffee Italian Buttercream 1075
Cinnamon Orange Scones 969 Puff Pastry 1025 French Mousseline Buttercream 1076
Cream Scones 970 Éclair Paste (Pâte à Choux) 1028 Chocolate Mousseline
Morning Glory Muffins 970 Italian Meringue 1031 Buttercream 1076
Whole Wheat Oat Muffins 971 Shortbread Tart Dough Basic Fudge Frosting 1077
Lemon Poppy Seed Muffins 971 (Pâte Sablée) 1035 Cocoa Fudge Frosting 1077
Irish Soda Bread 972 Quiche Dough (Pâte Brisée) 1036 Basic Sugar Glaze 1078
Steamed Mealie Bread 972 Lemon Meringue Pie 1036 Flavored Sugar Glaze 1078
Zucchini Bread 973 Unbaked Milk Tart 1037 Royal Icing 1079
Party Bread 973 Freeform Apple Pies 1038 Chocolate Ganache 1080
Sour Cream Coffeecake 974 Blackberry Crumble 1039 Dark Chocolate Truffles 1081
Fresh Berry Tart 1039 Lemon & Sultana Cake 1088
French Apple Tart 1040 Cream Cheese Frosting 1088
32 Yeast Breads Almond Cream 1040 Marble Cake 1089
Simple Sourdough Starter 979 Rustic Vegetable Galettes 1041 Marble Cupcakes 1089
Soft Yeast Dinner Rolls 986 Strawberry Napoleon 1041 German Chocolate Cake 1090
Light Rye Bread 988 Palmiers 1042 Coconut Pecan Frosting 1090
Parisian Croissants 990 Chocolate Éclairs 1043 Sacher Torte 1091
White Sandwich Bread 993 Baked Meringue 1044 Dark Chocolate Glaze 1091
Whole-Wheat Sandwich Chocolate Délice 1044 Tres Leches Cake 1092
Bread 993 Classic Dacquoise 1045 Flourless Chocolate Cake 1093
Cloverleaf Rolls 993 Candied Almonds 1045 Maize Honey Cake 1094
French or Italian Bread 994 Apple Strudel 1046 German Chocolate Layered Brownies 1095
Whole-Wheat Bread 994 Chocolate-Mint Crinkle Cookies 1047 Banana Bars with Brown Butter Icing 1096
San Francisco-Style Sourdough Oatmeal Raisin Cookies 1048 Chocolate Banana Bars 1096
Bread 995 Peanut Butter Sandies 1048
Focaccia (Roman Flatbread) 996 Chocolate Chip Cookies 1049
Pizza Dough 996 Biscotti 1050
35  ustards, Creams, Frozen
C
Swiss Chard and Ricotta Orange Biscotti 1050
Desserts and Dessert Sauces
Calzone 997 Anise Biscotti 1050 Vanilla Custard Sauce 1100
Potato-Stuffed Naan Chocolate Biscotti 1050 Chocolate Custard Sauce 1100
(Indian Leavened Bread) 998 Lemon or Lime Bars 1051 Coffee Custard Sauce 1100

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 26 RECIPES

Hazelnut Custard Sauce 1100 White Chocolate Hazelnut Passion Fruit Crème Brûlée 1119
Ginger Custard Sauce 1100 Bavarian 1109 Chocolate Pots de Crème 1119
Pistachio Custard Sauce 1100 Lime Chiffon 1110 New York Cheesecake 1120
Pastry Cream 1101 Lemon Chiffon 1110 Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce 1121
Chocolate Pastry Cream 1101 Orange Chiffon 1110 Chocolate Bread Pudding 1121
Coconut Pastry Cream 1101 Classic Chocolate Mousse 1111 Bourbon Sauce 1121
Coffee Pastry Cream 1101 Ice Cream Base 1113 Cherry Clafouti 1122
Mousseline Pastry Cream 1101 Chocolate Ice Cream 1113 Lemon Curd 1122
Champagne Sabayon 1102 Cappuccino Ice Cream 1113 Lime Curd 1122
Sabayon Mousseline 1102 Brandied Cherry Ice Cream 1113 Buttermilk Panna Cotta 1123
Toffee Caramel Flan 1103 Grapefruit Sorbet 1114 Caramel Buttermilk Panna Cotta 1123
Baked Crème Brûlée 1104 Lemon Sorbet 1114 Raspberry Mousse 1123
Chocolate Soufflés 1106 Mango Sorbet 1114 Coffee Granita 1124
Crème Chantilly (Chantilly Cream) 1107 Raspberry Sorbet 1114 Chocolate Hazelnut Marquise
Stabilized Whipped Cream 1107 Raspberry Sauce 1115 with Hazelnut Sauce 1125
Chocolate Chantilly 1107 Caramel Sauce 1116 Fruit Coulis 1125
Bavarian Cream 1108 Dark Chocolate Syrup 1116 Butterscotch Sauce 1126
Charlotte Bavarian 1109 Crème Brûlée 1119 Chocolate Fudge Sauce 1126

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 26 28/06/22 11:10

 Preface
Learning to cook is much more than simply learning to follow a recipe. Consequently,
On Cooking, Sixth Edition, Global Edition, is not a cookbook or a collection of recipes.
It is a carefully designed text intended to teach you the fundamentals of the culinary arts
and to prepare you for a rewarding career in the food service industry.
The goal of On Cooking is to focus your attention on general procedures, highlighting
fundamental principles and skills, whether it be for preparing a yeast bread or grilling
a piece of fish. Both the how and why of cooking are discussed, emphasizing culinary
principles first, not recipes. Only after the principles are introduced and explained are
specific applications and sample recipes given. The content is extensively illustrated with
photographs and line drawings to help you identify foods and equipment. Most recipes
include photographs of the finished dish ready for service. Many procedures are illus-
trated with step-by-step photographs as well.
In order to provide you with a sense of the rich traditions of cookery, informative side-
bars on food history, chef biographies and other topics are located throughout the book.
Sidebars that relate to flavors and flavorings also appear throughout the material to enhance
your understanding of key cooking ingredients and possible variations. Safety Alerts are
shown in red, to remind you of conditions or situations that might pose a danger to you
or to diners. Electronic resources accompanying this text enhance the learning experience
while encouraging your use of computer technology in contemporary kitchens.
We wish you much success in your future career and hope that this text will continue
to inform and inspire you long after graduation.

A NOTE ON RECIPES
Recipes are important and useful as a means of standardizing food preparation and
recording information. In On Cooking, Sixth Edition, Global Edition, recipes are designed
primarily to reinforce and explain techniques and procedures presented in the text. Many
recipe yields are intentionally low in order to be less intimidating to beginning cooks
and more useful in small schools and kitchens.
All ingredients are listed in both U.S. and metric measurements. The metric equivalents
are rounded off to even, easily measured amounts. You should consider the ingredient
lists as separate recipes or formulas; do not measure some ingredients according to the
metric amounts and other ingredients according to the U.S. amounts or the proportions
will not be accurate and the intended result will not be achieved. Throughout this book,
unless otherwise noted:
▪▪ mirepoix refers to a preparation of 2 parts onion, 1 part celery and 1 part carrot by
weight
▪▪ pepper refers to ground black pepper, preferably freshly ground
▪▪ butter refers to whole unsalted butter
▪▪ milk refers to whole or reduced fat (not nonfat) milk
▪▪ yogurt refers to whole plain (unsweetened) yogurt
▪▪ TT means “to taste”
Detailed procedures for standard techniques are presented in the text and generally
are not repeated in each recipe (e.g., in a recipe, the instruction will be simply “deglaze
the pan” or “monté au beurre”). Variations appear at the end of selected recipes. These
variations illustrate how one set of techniques or procedures can be used to prepare dif-
ferent dishes with only minor modifications.
A mise en place feature is included for recipes that appear in the front sections of each
recipe chapter. Ingredients that require preparation before the recipe is begun are listed in
27

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 28 PREFACE

the margin under the Mise en Place heading. Consult this brief checklist after you read the
recipe but before you begin to cook. Some recipes also include headnotes that describe
the cultural or historical background of a dish or the unique techniques used in its prepa-
ration. This short text will enhance your understanding of a cuisine or cooking technique.
No matter how detailed the written recipe, however, we assume that you are acquiring
certain knowledge, skills and judgment. It becomes a judgment call to know, for example,
when a loaf of bread or a casserole is properly cooked. Ovens and cookware may vary in
efficiency. For these reasons, recipes and formulas describe alternate tests for doneness,
requiring you to use your developing skills to determine when a dish is fully cooked. You
should also rely upon the knowledge and skills of your instructor for guidance. Although
some skills and an understanding of theory can be acquired through reading and study,
no book can substitute for repeated hands-on preparation and observation.
A registered dietician analyzed all the recipes in this book using nutritional analysis
software that incorporates data from the U.S. Department of Agriculture, research labo-
ratories and food manufacturers. The nutrient information provided here should be used
only as a reference, however. A margin of error of approximately 20 percent can be ex-
pected because of natural variations in ingredients. Preparation techniques and serving
sizes may also significantly alter the values of many nutrients. For the nutritional analysis,
if a recipe offers a choice of ingredients, the first-mentioned ingredient is the one used.
Ingredients listed as “to taste” (TT) and “as needed” are omitted from the analysis. It is
assumed that corn oil and whole milk are used when a recipe calls for “vegetable oil” and
“milk,” respectively. In cases of a range of ingredient quantities or numbers of servings,
the average is used.

Good Choice Throughout this book various recipes are marked with a Good Choice icon. This symbol
identifies dishes that are particularly low in calories, fat, saturated fat or sodium; they
may also be a good source of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium.

Vegetarian Vegetarian dishes are indicated with a green leaf symbol. These recipes do not contain
meat, fish, shellfish or poultry, but may contain dairy products and/or eggs. (This symbol
is not used in the baked goods recipes in Chapters 31–35, however, because none of
them contains meat, fish, shellfish or poultry.)

Vegan Vegan dishes are indicated with the blue V symbol. These recipes do not contain any
animal products. Vegetarian and vegan dishes are not necessarily low in calories, fat or
sodium; nor are they necessarily good sources of vitamins, protein, fiber or calcium.

A01_LABE3751_06_GE_FM.indd 28 28/06/22 11:10

 Acknowledgments
This book would not have been possible without the assistance and support of many
people. Special thanks to our photographers, Richard Embery, Debby Wolvos and
Debby’s assistants, Elizabeth Barry and Jenelle Bonifield, for their talent, professionalism
and commitment to quality. The nutritional analysis for this edition was prepared by
Mindy Hermann, MS, RD, whose thoroughness and prompt replies were greatly appreci-
ated. Thanks also to Bill Ingram for his artistry.
Alan thanks his wife, Chantal, for her patience and guidance not only with this edition
but since the book’s conception 25 years ago, and his sons, Logan and Grayson, for pull-
ing him away from work and reminding him that it’s okay to just play and goof off some-
times. He is blessed to work with Priscilla Martel. She is not only a partner, but a friend.
She is knowledgeable in all things food and cooking and she writes like a fiend. He
thanks Sarah for working so hard on the project from halfway around the world. Her
strong opinions and attention to detail have kept the text consistent through every edition.
Alan also acknowledges his many friends and coworkers who have been invaluable
to the success of the text: Gregory Reynolds, Reynalda Montes, Davie Gabayan, Mark
Bookhamer, Bob Tam, Declan Spears, Christina Brogan, Rosalino Morales, Estella
Morales, Juan Soto, Jimmy Curry, Stephanie Bookhamer, Emily Phillips, Devin Rogers,
Toni Connor, Luis Montes, Damian Montes and Raul Cinceros.
Sarah welcomes portfolio manager Pamela Chirls to the team with this edition. Pam,
who is an icon in the world of cookbook publishing, added fresh insights and steady
guidance to this revision. Sarah sends many thanks to Steve Labensky, Richard Embery
and Robin Baliszewski for their hard work and participation over the years. She espe-
cially thanks Skip for always producing gorgeous and delicious food, and Priscilla for
being the leader who pulls everything together with her breadth of knowledge and
attention to detail. Finally Sarah thanks Woosong University and its Sol International Culi-
nary Arts program in Daejeon, Korea for their support during this revision. The many
wonderful students she has worked with over the years, both in Korea and the United
States are the real reason that books such as this are written.
Priscilla would like to acknowledge the contributions of Carole Pierce and J. Patrick
Truhn, two fine writers and editors, and the support of Chef Jeffrey Lizotte, Present Com-
pany, Chef Bryan Miller and the staff at On20 Restaurant, Chef Michel Nischan and Chef
Eddy Van Damme. Special thanks go to Sheila Bowman, Seafood Watch Manager of Culi-
nary and Strategic Initiatives at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, who provided key insights
incorporated in this revision. She would like to sincerely thank Sarah and Skip for the
extra effort it took to refresh this book, which honors our commitment to provide funda-
mental culinary knowledge to our student readers in a clear and inspiring manner.
The authors wish to thank the following companies for their generous donations of
equipment and supplies: Zwilling J.A. Henckels AG and Parrish’s Cake Decorating Sup-
plies, Inc. We also wish to thank Demarle USA, Shamrock Foods Company, Peddlers Son
Produce, KitchenAid Home Appliances, Taylor Environmental Instruments, Hobart Cor-
poration, James Fagan, Degrenne North America, LLC., Elizabeth Jones of ISF Interna-
tional, Fairtrade International and Kristine Cueto, Manager Hotel Operations of Rosenthal
USA, Ltd.
We also wish to thank everyone involved in this project at Pearson Education, includ-
ing, Pamela Chirls, portfolio manager; Elizabeth Mackenzie-Lamb, marketing coordinator;
Bob Nisbet, field marketing manager; Kelly Ricci, senior project manager; John Christiana,
manager of design development; Erin Mulligan, developmental editor; and, Julianna Scott
Fein, copy editor.
We are grateful for the outstanding quality of the responses to our review question-
naires and surveys. The excellent suggestions for improving the text and refining the reci-
pes played a critical role in the preparation of this revision as well as previous revisions of
29

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 30 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
On Cooking. The following reviewers provided many excellent suggestions and ideas for
improving the text:
G. Allen Akmon, Sullivan University
Karin Allen, Utah State University
Chris Argento, Nassau Community College
Mike Artlip, Kendall College
Victor Bagan, Odessa College
Jeff Bane, Clearly University
Todd Barrios, Stephen F. Austin State University
David Barrish, Reynolds Community College
Leslie Bartosh, Alvin Community College
Bea Beasley, Santa Rosa Junior College
Erica Beirman, Iowa State University
Carol Bennett, Central Arizona College
Frank Benowitz, Mercer County Community College
Paul John Bernhardt, Diablo Valley College
Ben Black, Culinary Institute of Charleston at Trident Technical
College
LeRoy Blanchard, Los Angeles Trade Technical College
Patricia Bowman, Johnson & Wales University
Eric Breckoff, Piedmont Virginia Community College
Scott Bright, Quest Food Management Services
Tracey Brigman, University of Georgia
Stephen Burgeson, Buffalo State College
Angelo Camillo, Woodbury University
Kristina Campbell, Columbus Technical College
Mary Ann Campbell, Trenholm State Community College
Michael Carmel, Trident Technical College
Paul Carrier, Milwaukee Area Technical College
Melinda Casady, Portland’s Culinary Workshop
Dorothy Chen-Maynard, California State University, San Bernardino
Susan Ciriello, Art Institute of Washington
Jeffrey Coker, Salt Lake Community College
Jerry Comar, Johnson & Wales University
Matt Cooper, Mott Community College
Anne Corr, Cook Like A Chef Camp
Sylvia Crixell, Texas State University, San Marcos
Chris Crosthwaite, Lane Community College
Cathy Cunningham, Tennessee Technological University
Chris Currier, Sandhills Community College
Jacqueline deChabert-Rios, East Carolina University
Richard Donnelly, East Stroudsburg University
Michael Downey, St. Louis Community College at Forest Park
Charles Drabkin, Edmonds Community College
Jodi Lee Duryea, University of North Texas
Tuesday Eastlack, Northwest Arkansas Community College
Sari Edelstein, Simmons College
Kimberly Emery, SUNY-Plattsburgh
Thom England, Ivy Tech Community College
Naomi Everett, University of Alaska
Melanie Ewalt, Kirkwood Community College
Richard Exley, Scottsdale Culinary Institute
Stephen Fernald, Lake Tahoe Community College
Edward Fernandez, Kapiolani Community College
Doug Flick, Johnson County Community College
Deborah Foster, Ball State University
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Thomas Gaddis, Pellissippi State Community College
Wendy Gordon, SUNY Rockland Community College
Debra Gourley, Ivy Tech Community College
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Michael Herbert, Northern Virginia Community College
Travis Herr, Pensacola State College
Vern Hickman, Renaissance Culinary Center
Martina Hilldorfer, Kauai Community College
Carol Himes, Pueblo Community College
David Hoffman, Mohawk Valley Community College
David Horsfield, Kirkwood Community College
Thomas Hosley, Carteret Community College
John Hudoc, Robert Morris College
Robert Hudson, Pikes Peak Community College
Robert “Miles” Huff, Culinary Institute of Charleston at Trident
Technical College
Sharon Hunt, Fort Valley State University
Barry Infuso, Pima Community College
Bruce Johnson, Salt Lake City Community College
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Melodie Jordan, Keystone College
Wendy Jordan, Rosemary’s Restaurant
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Sciences
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Julie Lee, Western Kentucky University
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Larry Lewis, San Diego Culinary Institute
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Global Edition Acknowledgments
Pearson would like to thank the following people who have contributed toward develop-
ing this book for the global markets and who have put in effort to update this global
edition for students across the world.
Sitangsu Chakravarty
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 31
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York
Kimberly Youkstetter, Worcester Technical High School
Charles Ziccardi, Drexel University
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 Professionalism 1

33

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 After studying this chapter,
you will be able to:
▶▶ name key historical figures responsible
for developing food service
professionalism and describe the
contributions of each
▶▶ list and describe the key stages in the
development of the modern food service
industry
▶▶ explain the organization of classic and
modern kitchen brigades
▶▶ identify the attributes a student needs to
become a successful culinary professional
▶▶ describe the importance of professional
ethics for chefs and list the specific
behaviors that all culinary professionals
should follow
cookery the art, practice or work of cooking
cooking (1) the transfer of energy from a heat
source to a food; this energy alters the food’s
molecular structure, changing its texture, flavor,
aroma and appearance; (2) the preparation of
food for consumption
professional cooking a system of cooking based
on a knowledge of and appreciation for ingredi-
ents and procedures
34
M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 34
L ike any fine art, great cookery requires taste and creativity, an appreciation of beauty
and a mastery of technique. Like the sciences, successful cookery demands knowl-
edge and an understanding of basic principles, and like any successful leader, today’s
professional chef must exercise sound judgment and be committed to achieving excellence in
all endeavors.
This book describes foods and cooking equipment, explains culinary principles and
cooking techniques and provides recipes using these principles and techniques. No book,
however, can provide taste, creativity, commitment and judgment. For these, chefs and
other culinary professionals must rely on themselves. This chapter explores the rich history
of the restaurant industry and the individuals who influenced the development of the pro-
fession. It also outlines the attributes of the professional chef. As you begin your culinary
studies, we hope that you find inspiration in the history of the food service industry as you
learn about the qualities that will guide you in your chosen career.
CHEFS AND RESTAURANTS
Cooks have produced food in quantity for as long as people have eaten together. For
millennia, chefs, whether they be Asian, Native American, European or African, have
catered to the often elaborate dining needs of the wealthy and powerful; and for centu-
ries, vendors in China, Europe and elsewhere have sold foods to the public that they
prepared themselves or bought from others.
But the history of the professional chef is of relatively recent origin. Its cast is
mostly French, and it is intertwined with the history of restaurants—for only with the
development of restaurants during the late 18th and early 19th centuries were chefs
expected to produce, efficiently and economically, different dishes at different times
for different diners.
The 18th Century—Boulanger’s Restaurant
The word restaurant is derived from the French word restaurer (“to restore”). Since the
16th century, the word restorative had been used to describe rich and highly flavored
soups or stews capable of restoring lost strength. Restoratives, like all other cooked
foods offered and purchased outside the home during this period of history, were made
by guild members. Each guild had a monopoly on preparing a category of food items.
For example, during the reign of Henri IV of France (r. 1589–1610), there were separate
guilds for rôtisseurs (who cooked la grosse viande, the main cuts of meat), pâtissiers
(who cooked poultry, pies and tarts), tamisiers (who baked breads), vinaigriers (who
made sauces and some stews, including some restoratives), traiteurs (who made meat
stews) and porte-chapes (caterers who organized feasts and celebrations).
The French claim that the first modern restaurant opened one day in 1765 when a
Parisian tavern keeper, a Monsieur Boulanger, hung a sign advertising the sale of his
special restorative, a dish of sheep feet in white sauce. His establishment closed shortly
thereafter as the result of a lawsuit brought by a guild whose members claimed that Bou-
langer was infringing on their exclusive right to sell prepared dishes. Boulanger tri-
umphed in court and later reopened.
Boulanger’s establishment differed from the inns and taverns that had existed through-
out Europe for centuries. These inns and taverns served foods prepared (usually off
premises) by the appropriate guild. The food—of which there was little choice—was
offered by the inn or tavern as incidental to the establishment’s primary function: provid-
ing sleeping accommodations or drink. Customers were served family style and ate at
communal tables. Boulanger’s contribution to the food service industry was serving a
variety of foods prepared on premises to customers whose primary interest was dining.
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 PROFESSIONALISM 35

Several other restaurants opened in Paris during the succeeding decades, including
the Grande Taverne de Londres in 1782. Its owner, Antoine Beauvilliers (1754–1817),
was the former steward (chief of the household staff) to the Comte de Provence, later
King Louis XVIII of France. Beauvilliers advanced the development of the modern res-
taurant by offering his wealthy patrons a menu listing available dishes during fixed
hours. Beauvilliers’s impeccably trained wait staff served patrons at small, individual
tables in an elegant setting.
The French Revolution (1789–1799) had a significant effect on the budding restaurant
industry. Along with the aristocracy, the revolution generally abolished guilds and their
monopolies. The revolution also allowed the public access to the skills and creativity of
the well-trained, sophisticated chefs who previously had worked exclusively in the aris-
tocracy’s private kitchens. Although many of the aristocracy’s chefs either left the country
or lost their jobs (and some their heads), a few opened restaurants catering to the grow-
ing urbanized middle class. grande cuisine the rich, intricate and elaborate
cuisine of the 18th- and 19th-century French
The Early 19th Century—Carême and Grande Cuisine aristocracy and upper classes; it was based on
the rational identification, development and
As the 19th century progressed, more restaurants opened, serving a greater selection of adoption of strict culinary principles; by
items and catering to a wider clientele. By midcentury, several large, grand restaurants in emphasizing the how and why of cooking,
Paris were serving elaborate meals, reminiscent of the grande cuisine (also known as grande cuisine was the first to distinguish itself
haute cuisine) of the aristocracy. Grande cuisine, which arguably reached its peak of from regional cuisines, which tend to
perfection in the hands of Antonin Carême was characterized by meals consisting of emphasize the tradition of cooking

Marie-Antoine (Antonin) Carême (1783–1833)

Antonin Carême, known as the “cook of kings
and the king of cooks,” was an acknowledged
master of French grande cuisine. Abandoned on
the streets of Paris as a child, he worked his way
from cook’s helper in a working-class restaurant
to become one of the most prestigious chefs of
his (or, arguably, any other) time. During his
career, he was chef to the famous French
diplomat and gourmand Prince de Talleyrand,
the Prince Regent of England (who became
King George IV), Tsar Alexander I of Russia and
Baron de Rothschild, among others.
Carême’s stated goal was to achieve
lightness, grace, order and perspicuity in the
preparation and presentation of food. As a
pâtissier, he designed and prepared elaborate
and elegant pastry and confectionery creations,
many of which were based on architectural
designs. (He wrote that “the fine arts are five in
number, namely: painting, sculpture, poetry,
music, architecture—the main branch of which
is confectionery.”) As a showman, he garnished
his dishes with ornamental hâtelets (skewers)
threaded with colorful ingredients, such as
crayfish and intricately carved vegetables, and
presented his creations on elaborate socles
(bases). As a saucier, he standardized the use of
the flour and butter mixture called roux as a
thickening agent, perfected recipes and devised
A poultry illustration from Carême showing hâtelets
(skewers) used as a garnish.
a system for classifying sauces. As a garde-
manger, Carême popularized cold cuisine,
emphasizing molds and aspic dishes. As a
culinary professional, he designed kitchen tools,
equipment and uniforms.
As an author, Carême wrote and illustrated
important texts on the culinary arts, including
Le Maitre d’hotel français (c. 1822), describing
the hundreds of dishes he personally created
and cooked in the capitals of Europe;
Le Pâtissier royal parisien (c. 1825), containing
fanciful designs for les pieces montées, the great
decorative centerpieces that were the crowning
glory of grand dinners; and his five-volume
masterpiece on the state of his profession,
L’Art de la cuisine française aux XIXe siècle (1833),
the last two volumes of which were completed
after his death by his associate, Plumerey.
Carême’s writings almost single-handedly
refined and summarized five hundred years of
culinary evolution. But his treatises were not
mere cookbooks. Rather he analyzed cooking,
old and new, emphasizing procedure and order
and covering every aspect of the art known as
grande cuisine.
Carême died before age 50, burnt out,
according to French poet and essayist Laurent
Tailhade, “by the flame of his genius and the
coal of the spits.”

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 36 CHAPTER ONE

restaurateur a person who owns or operates
an establishment serving food, such as a
restaurant
gourmand a connoisseur of fine food and
drink, often to excess
gastronomy the art and science of eating well
gourmet a connoisseur of fine food and drink
gourmet foods foods of the highest quality,
perfectly prepared and beautifully presented
classic cuisine a late 19th- and early
20th-century refinement and simplification of
French grande cuisine. Classic (or classical)
cuisine relies on the thorough exploration of
culinary principles and techniques and
emphasizes the refined preparation and
presentation of superb ingredients.
dozens of courses of elaborately and intricately prepared, presented, garnished and
sauced foods. Other restaurateurs blended the techniques and styles of grande cuisine
with the simpler foods and tastes of the middle class (cuisine bourgeoise) to create a new
cuisine simpler than grande cuisine but more complex than mere home cooking, which
often centered around bread.
The Late 19th Century—Escoffier and Cuisine Classique
Following the lead set by the French in both culinary style and the restaurant business,
restaurants opened in the United States and throughout Europe during the 19th cen-
tury. Charles Ranhofer (1836–1899) was the first internationally renowned chef of an
American restaurant–Delmonico’s in New York City. In 1893, Ranhofer published his
“Franco-American” encyclopedia of cooking, The Epicurean, which contained more
than 3500 recipes.
One of the finest restaurants outside France was the dining room at London’s Savoy
Hotel, opened in 1898 under the directions of César Ritz (1850–1918) and Auguste
Escoffier (1846–1935). There they created a restaurant that attracted royalty and
aristocratic women, a group rarely seen dining in public at the time. Escoffier is generally
credited with refining the grande cuisine of Carême to create cuisine classique or classic
cuisine. He invented such dishes as Suprêmes de soles à l’aurore (or “fillet of sole at
dawn”) in a blushing pink sauce and Pêche Melba (or “Peach Melba”), named after
Austrian singer Nellie Melba, a guest at the hotel. By doing so, he brought French cuisine
into the 20th century.

Auguste Escoffier (1846–1935)

Auguste Escoffier’s brilliant culinary career
began at age 13 in his uncle’s restaurant and
continued until his death at age 89. Called the
“emperor of the world’s kitchens,” he is
perhaps best known for defining French
cuisine and dining during La Belle Époque
(also referred to as the “Gay Nineties”).
Unlike Antonin Carême, Escoffier never
worked in an aristocratic household. Rather he
exhibited his culinary skills in the dining rooms
of the finest hotels in Europe, including the
Place Vendôme in Paris and the Savoy and
Carlton hotels in London.
Escoffier did much to enhance grande cuisine
as defined by Carême. Crediting Carême with
providing the foundation for great—that is,
French—cooking, Escoffier simplified the
profusion of flavors, dishes and garnishes
typifying Carême’s work. For example, Carême
would present elaborate displays of as many
as 150 dishes for guests at a private function.
In contrast, Escoffier would offer 11 dishes
served tableside to each guest individually.
Escoffier also streamlined some of Carême’s
overly elaborate and fussy procedures and
classifications. For example, he reduced
Carême’s elaborate system of classifying
Tournedos Rossini, a dish created by
Escoffier, as it might be served today.
sauces into the five families of sauces still
recognized today. Escoffier sought simplicity
and aimed for the perfect balance of a few
superb ingredients. Some consider his
refinement of grande cuisine to have been so
radical as to credit him with the development
of a new cuisine referred to as cuisine classique
(classic or classical cuisine).
Escoffier’s many writings include Le Livre des
menus (1912), in which, discussing the
principles of a well-planned meal, he
analogizes a great dinner to a symphony with
contrasting movements that should be
appropriate to the occasion, the guests and
the season, and Ma cuisine (1934), surveying
cuisine bourgeoise. But his most important
contribution is a culinary treatise intended for
the professional chef titled Le Guide culinaire
(1903). Still in use today, it is an astounding
collection of more than 5000 classic cuisine
recipes and garnishes. In it, Escoffier
emphasizes the mastery of techniques, the
thorough understanding of cooking principles
and the appreciation of ingredients—
attributes he considered to be the building
blocks professional chefs should use to create
great dishes.

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 PROFESSIONALISM 37

The Mid-20th Century—Point and Nouvelle Cuisine

The mid-20th century witnessed a trend toward lighter, more naturally flavored and
more simply prepared foods. Fernand Point was a master practitioner of this movement.
But this master’s goal of simplicity and refinement was carried to even greater heights by
a generation of French chefs Point trained: principally Paul Bocuse, Jean and Pierre
Troisgros, Alain Chapel, François Bise and Louis Outhier. They, along with Michel
Guérard and Roger Vergé, were the pioneers of nouvelle cuisine in the early 1970s. Their nouvelle cuisine French for “new cooking”; a
contemporary, Gaston Lenôtre, modernized the classic pastries of grande cuisine, infus- mid-20th-century movement away from many
ing them with the bright, fresh flavors of nouvelle cuisine. classic cuisine principles and toward a lighter
Their culinary philosophy was principled on the rejection of overly rich, needlessly cuisine based on natural flavors, shortened
complicated dishes and an emphasis on healthful eating. The ingredients must be abso- cooking times and innovative combinations
lutely fresh and of the highest possible quality; the cooking methods should be simple and ethnic cuisine the cuisine of a group of people
direct whenever possible. The accompaniments and garnishes must be light and contribute having a common cultural heritage, as opposed
to an overall harmony; the completed plates must be elegantly designed and decorated. to the cuisine of a group of people bound
Following these guidelines, traditional cooking methods were applied to nontraditional together by geography or political factors
ingredients, and ingredients were combined in new and previously unorthodox fashions. California or New American cuisine a late
20th-century movement that first became
The Late 20th and Early 21st Centuries—An American popular in California and spread across the
Culinary Revolution United States; it stresses the use of fresh, locally
grown, seasonal produce and high-quality
During the last 30–40 years, broad changes launched in the United States have affected ingredients simply prepared in a fashion that
the global culinary landscape. Two such trends are bold, ethnic flavors and fresh food, preserves and emphasizes natural flavors
simply prepared.
The popularity of ethnic cuisine is due, in large part, to an unlikely source: the Immi- fusion cuisine the blending or use of ingredients
gration and Nationality Act of 1965. Under its provisions, a large number of Asians immi- and/or preparation methods from various
ethnic, regional or national cuisines in the same
grated to the United States. They brought with them their rich culinary traditions and
dish; also known as transnational cuisine
ignited America’s love affair with fiery hot cuisines. By the late 1970s many Americans
were no longer content with overly salty pseudo-Chinese dishes. They demanded regional cuisine a set of recipes based on local
authenticity and developed cravings for spicy dishes from the Szechuan and Hunan ingredients, traditions and practices; within a
provinces of China, Vietnam and Thailand. In the 1970s Mexican food also left the barrio larger geographical, political, cultural or social
and became mainstream. Now authentic regional Mexican dishes are commonplace unit, regional cuisines are often variations of
throughout America. one another that blend together to create a
national cuisine
During this same time period, restaurateurs and chefs began Americanizing the prin-
ciples of French nouvelle cuisine. When Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse in Berkeley, global cuisine foods (often commercially pro-
California, in 1971, her goal was to serve fresh food, simply prepared. Rejecting the duced items) or preparation methods that have
growing popularity of processed and packaged foods, Waters used fresh, seasonal and become ubiquitous throughout the world; for
locally grown produce in simple preparations that preserved and emphasized the foods’ example, curries and French-fried potatoes
natural flavors. Chez Panisse and the many chefs who passed through its kitchen national cuisine the characteristic cuisine of a
launched a new style of American cuisine that became known as California or New nation
American cuisine. As the culinary movement launched by Waters’s philosophy spread
across the United States, farmers and chefs began working together to make fresh, locally
grown foods available, and producers and suppliers began developing domestic sources
for some of the high-quality ingredients that were once available only from overseas.
These chefs ushered in a period of bold experimentation. American chefs and chefs
working in America, such as Wolfgang Puck, began to combine ingredients and prepara-
tion methods from a variety of cuisines. Their work resulted in fusion cuisine. Fusion
cuisine combines ingredients or preparation methods associated with one ethnic or
regional cuisine with those of another. A fillet of Norwegian salmon might be grilled
over hickory wood and then served on a bed of Japanese soba noodles, for example, or
a traditional French duck confit may be seasoned with lemongrass, ginger and chiles.
Pizzas with untraditional toppings, such as smoked salmon and caviar, which had never
been conceived of before, launched Wolfgang Puck’s career in Los Angeles, California,
in the early 1980s. Today such fusion is commonplace from the creations of Kogi BBQ’s
Korean Mexican tacos in Southern California to the subtle use of Asian seasonings in the
classic sauces prepared by Jean-Georges Vongerichten at his restaurant Jean-Georges in
New York City. But in the 1970s and 1980s, fusion represented a breakthrough in cook- Smoked salmon and caviar pizza, a dish
ing and helped establish Puck as the first celebrity chef. created by Wolfgang Puck in the early 1980s.

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 38 CHAPTER ONE
A dish composed of olive oil poached turnips
and mushrooms, potatoes and red cabbage
from the vegetable menu of Charlie Trotter’s,
a Michelin-starred restaurant that operated in
Chicago from 1987 to 2012.
Sauce spooned over a dish at a meal prepared in
New York City by Thomas Keller and his staff.
farm-to-table or locavore movement an aware-
ness of the source of ingredients with an
emphasis on serving locally grown and mini-
mally processed foods in season
molecular gastronomy a contemporary
scientific movement that investigates the
chemistry and physics of food preparation
modernist cuisine a term that refers to science-
inspired techniques for food preparation; an
avant-garde approach to food preparation,
sanitation and health concerns based on science-
inspired techniques
Roast foie gras with almond fluid gel cherry
chamomile prepared by Heston Blumenthal at
The Fat Duck in Bray, England.
M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 38
Other chefs who were instrumental in changing the way Americans dine imported the
exacting standards and culinary techniques of European chefs. In so doing these chefs
elevated the style and quality of food served in the United States. Charlie Trotter opened
his eponymous restaurant in Chicago in 1987 after several apprenticeships in France. Trot-
ter is noteworthy for introducing the multicourse tasting menus that are a signature of fine
dining today. Among the first to dedicate as much attention to vegetables as to meat or fish,
Trotter also explored raw food preparations, writing a book on raw foods in 2003. Chef
Thomas Keller, who started cooking in restaurants in his teens, worked at renowned res-
taurants Guy Savoy and Le Taillevent in Paris before opening his own restaurant in 1994.
Today experts regard Keller’s restaurants, The French Laundry in Yountville, California, and
Per Se in New York City among the finest in the world. His cuisine, based on traditional
French and modern cooking techniques, utilizes only foods in season, many grown on
premises or sourced from local farmers. Known for producing lengthy tasting menus of
food with clean flavors as well as his obsessive attention to detail, Keller develops profes-
sionalism in his staff who are encouraged to be mindful, organized and “work clean.”
The fluidity of international borders, the accessibility of global travel and the Internet
have radically changed the way we cook and the foods we eat. Today the world’s pan-
tries are available to chefs and home cooks everywhere. Chefs are sourcing ingredients
globally as well as working in tandem with farmers to supply their diners with fresh fla-
vors while preserving local agriculture and heirloom varieties. As we discuss in detail
later in this chapter, the concern for locally raised ingredients, referred to as the farm-to-
table or locavore movement, has influenced chefs to serve fresh seasonal foods, such as
wild greens or seafood from day boat fishermen, that is grown or harvested within a few
miles of their restaurants.
Modernist Cuisine
During the 1990s scientists, particularly in the United States, England, France and Spain,
began to see food preparation as a distinct and worthy field of exploration. Chefs and
scientists wanted to understand why food behaved as it did, why traditional cooking
techniques sometimes failed and how to improve culinary methods. Scientists began
seeking answers to these questions under the umbrella of molecular gastronomy, a term
coined by the British physicist Nicholas Kurti and French chemist Hervé This in 1988.
Inspired by the experiments of molecular gastronomy, early 21st-century chefs rein-
vented the notion of cooking by employing ingredients and machinery more common in
industrial food manufacturing than in restaurant kitchens. This offshoot of molecular
gastronomy is now referred to as modernist cuisine, first defined by Nathan Myhrvold
(former Chief Technology Officer at Microsoft, co-founder of Intellectual Ventures and
the principal author of Modernist Cuisine). Among those following modernist techniques
is a group of daring, innovative chefs practicing a form of haute cuisine that integrates
classic French cuisine with the highest-quality ingredients and previously unthinkable
presentations such as liquids solidified into spheres and powders.
The founding chef of this movement is Ferran Adrià of elBulli in Spain (1962–). Cur-
rent practitioners include Heston Blumenthal at The Fat Duck in Bray, England, Gaggan
Anand at Gaggan in Bangkok and Grant Achatz at Alinea in Chicago. The hallmarks of
this high-tech cuisine include dehydrators, edible menus, gels and spheres, intensely
flavored smoke and –30°F antigriddles that “cook” liquefied food. These chefs produce
foods that look like one thing, taste like something totally different and smell like child-
hood memories. Take Heston Blumenthal’s bacon and egg ice cream as one example. It
is a plated dessert consisting of ice cream made from a bacon-infused custard. All the
elements of the savory breakfast appear on the plate including a cup of tea, served as a
sweet jelly, and toast in the form of sweet, caramelized brioche. As Blumenthal says, his
goal is to make food exciting by overturning expectations. Although few restaurants are
going to the extreme of replacing their cooktops with water baths and chemical freezers,
many of the tools and techniques that these avant-garde chefs perfected are now being
used and appreciated on a smaller scale by chefs who may add a gelled garnish or
spheres of sauce to a traditional dish.
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 PROFESSIONALISM 39

Ferran Adrià (1962–)

Cooking is a language through which all the following
properties may be expressed: harmony, creativity,
happiness, beauty, poetry, complexity, magic, humor,
provocation and culture.
—Ferran Adrià
Ferran Adrià is an experimental Spanish chef
called the Salvador Dalí of the kitchen. Adrià’s
prestigious restaurant elBulli (slang for “the
bulldog”), was voted number one on The
World’s 50 Best Restaurants™ list four times.
ElBulli also earned three Michelin stars, the
highest Michelin rating, an award it
maintained from 1997 until it closed in 2011.
Born near Barcelona, this food futurist
planned a business career before a temporary
dishwashing job redirected his path. Inspired
by classic cuisine and an encouraging chef,
Adrià began his self-education, reading El
Práctico, a cooking manual edited by a Spanish
chef heavily influenced by Auguste Escoffier,
from cover to cover. A month working at elBulli
was an experience so stimulating that he
returned there upon completion of his military
service in 1984.
At the time, the cuisine at elBulli was heavily
influenced by nouvelle cuisine, then at its height
of popularity. Working alongside the
restaurant’s chef, Adrià created new versions of
acclaimed French dishes, earning the restaurant
its first star in the influential Michelin Guide.
Liquid olives, created by Chef Ferran Adrià.
He enhanced his skills and knowledge of classic
technique through brief apprenticeships in top
kitchens in France. But in 1987 Adrià heard an
expression that was to change his direction as a
chef; “Creativity means not copying,” said
Jacques Maximin, then chef of Le Chantecler in
Nice, France. At that moment Adrià and his
team committed themselves to reinventing
cuisine as we know it.
The food served at elBulli engaged all of
one’s senses. Dinner was a tasting menu of up
to 35 bite-sized dishes. What appeared to be
cooked may actually have been flash frozen. An
herb clipped to a spoon allowed guests to
smell the aroma before tasting the herb in the
dish. Warm foam that tasted of carrots or
mushrooms, hot gelatin, encapsulated mango
purée that resembled egg yolks and ravioli
filled with liquid were some of the show-
stopping techniques for which Adrià became
known. At the vanguard of experimental
cooking, Adrià and staff spent six months each
year working with food technologists,
industrial designers and artists experimenting
with new techniques. The chef and his staff
documented their style of cooking in a
23-point style guide, “Synthesis of elBulli
Cuisine.” Using the freshest ingredients and
mastery of technique are givens, they write. But
also all foods are of equal gastronomic value,
with a preference for vegetables and seafood to
create a “light, harmonic cuisine” based on
classic and modern technologies.
Adrià continues his experimentation and
research into gastronomy, sharing his
knowledge through the Internet and at elBulli
Foundation.

MODERN FOOD SERVICE OPERATIONS

From Monsieur Boulanger’s humble establishment, a great industry has grown. Today
more than one million public dining facilities operate in the United States alone. The
dramatic growth and diversification of the food service industry is due in part to the
Industrial Revolution in the 19th century and the social and economic changes it
brought, including the introduction of new culinary technologies, food supplies and
consumer concerns.

Culinary Technologies
Technology has always had a profound effect on cooking. For example, the development
of clay and, later, metal vessels that could contain liquids and withstand and conduct
heat offered prehistoric cooks the opportunity to stew, make soups and porridge, pickle
and brine foods and control fermentation. But it was not until the rapid technological
advances fostered by the Industrial Revolution that anything approaching the modern
kitchen was possible.
One of the most important advancements was the introduction of the cast-iron stove.
Prior to the 19th century, most cooking was done on spits or grills or in cauldrons or
pots set on or in a wood- or coal-burning hearth. Hearthside cooking did not lend itself

M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 39 26/05/2022 14:09

 40 CHAPTER ONE
genetically modified organism (GMO) refers to
a plant, microorganism or animal in which
genetic material (segments of DNA) have been
modified or engineered in a laboratory in order
to change inheritable characteristics, such as
resistance to insects or herbicides
M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 40
well to the simultaneous preparation of many items or to items requiring constant and
delicate attention. With the introduction of cast-iron stoves during the 1800s, cooks could
more comfortably and safely approach the heat source and control its temperatures. On
the new cook stoves, they could also prepare foods in the small quantities needed to
serve individual diners on demand.
Also of great importance were developments in food preservation and storage tech-
niques. For thousands of years food had been preserved by sun-drying, salting, smok-
ing, pickling, sugar-curing or fermenting. Salt-cured codfish and salmon have been
staples in Scandinavia for millennia, and the earliest household records and cookery
manuscripts from medieval Britain include inventories of bacon and salted meats.
Although useful, these ancient procedures dramatically change the appearance and
flavor of most foods. By the early 19th century, preserving techniques began to emerge
that had minimal effect on appearance and flavor. For example, by 1800 the French-
man Nicolas François Appert successfully “canned” foods by subjecting foods stored in
sterilized glass jars to very high heat. An early mechanical refrigerator was developed
by the mid-1800s; soon reliable iceboxes, refrigerators and, later, freezers were avail-
able. During the 20th century freeze-drying, vacuum-packing and irradiation became
common preservation techniques.
Developments in transportation technology were also underway. During the 19th
century steam-powered ships and railroads brought foods quickly to market from
distant suppliers. Since the mid-20th century temperature-controlled cargo ships,
trains, trucks and airplanes have all been used as part of an integrated worldwide
food transportation network. Combined with dependable food preservation and
storage techniques, improved transportation networks freed chefs from seasonal and
geographic limitations in their choice of foods and expanded consumers’ culinary
horizons.
Advancements in technology also facilitated or even eliminated much routine kitchen
work. Since the 19th century chefs have relied increasingly on mechanical and motor-
ized food processors, mixers and cutters as well as a wealth of sophisticated kitchen
equipment from high-carbon stainless steel knife blades to infrared thermometers and
ultrasonic homogenizers.
Food Supplies
Modern food preservation, storage and transportation techniques have made both fresh
and exotic foods regularly available to chefs and consumers. Because of advances in
packaging and transportation, foodstuffs grown or made virtually anywhere in the world
are now available to restaurants regardless of season or location.
Last century’s advancements in agriculture, such as the switch from organic to chemi-
cal fertilizers and the introduction of pesticides and drought- or pest-resistant strains,
increased yields of healthy crops. Traditional hybridization techniques and, more
recently, genetic engineering have produced new varieties of grains, such as soybeans,
corn, rapeseeds and rice, which are resistant to herbicides or insects. Although scientists
may argue that such engineering simply speeds up the process of natural selection, con-
sumers are often more concerned about the unforeseen impact on consumer health and
unintended consequences to the environment. Governments around the world regulate,
restrict or outright ban the sale of foodstuffs containing genetically modified organisms
(GMOs) on a case-by-case basis.
Additionally, advancements in animal husbandry and aquaculture have led to a more
reliable supply of leaner meat, poultry and fish. Foods found traditionally only in the
wild (for example, game, wild rice and many mushrooms) are now being raised com-
mercially and are routinely available. The commercialization of foodstuffs has created a
backlash among some consumers and chefs, however. New concerns about sustainabil-
ity and support for local farmers and food producers present the industry with new chal-
lenges and new opportunities for chefs to revise their menus and adopt ecologically-based
business practices.
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 PROFESSIONALISM 41

Consumer Concerns
Consumer concerns about nutrition and diet have fueled changes in the food service A Very Big Business
industry. Obviously what we eat affects our health. Adequate amounts of certain Indeed
nutrients promote good health by preventing deficiencies; studies show that good The National Restaurant Association,
nutrition also helps prevent chronic diseases and increases longevity. Chefs must now which closely monitors the economic
understand human nutritional needs and the various special diets followed by cus- impact of the U.S. food service industry,
tomers. Beyond simply reducing fat and sugar for weight control, chefs must accom- issued the following statistics for 2016:
modate customers’ allergies, specialized diets due to illnesses and ethical or social
▪▪ There are over one million restaurant
dining concerns of groups such as vegetarians and locavores.
The public is also rightfully concerned about food safety. Federal, state and local gov- locations in the United States; total
ernments help promote food safety by inspecting and grading meats and poultry, regu- annual sales were approximately
lating label contents for packaged foods and setting sanitation standards. The last line of $783 billion.
defense, however, are the restaurant workers who prepare and serve food. It is up to ▪▪ Eighty percent of restaurant customers
you, as a culinary professional, to follow sanitation and food safety guidelines to protect ate ethnic cuisine at least once per
others from injury or illness. month.
As noted earlier in this chapter, concerns about nutrition and food safety have also ▪▪ The food service industry captured 47%
resulted in renewed interest in local and organically grown fruits and vegetables and of the U.S. food dollar.
free-range-raised animals. The local food movement and the concern for sustainable ▪▪ More than 14.4 million people were
food production are leading chefs to find new sources for ingredients and expand their
employed in the restaurant industry.
community involvement.
▪▪ Nearly half of all American adults have
worked in the food service industry at
Local Production some time during their lives.
Fresh foods travel from the producer to the consumer by two basic methods: 1) the
industrial, commercial system, which operates huge, consolidated farms and global
transportation networks; and 2) small local or regional systems. One key difference is
how far the food travels from where it is grown or produced to the end consumer. Local
systems distribute food items over short distances. These local farms are often family
farms, which are defined by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) as
those operated by the people who own the land or the animals and have sales of less
than $350,000 per year.
While the word local indicates that the food item is being sold close to where it was
grown or produced, there is no consistent definition for it. Many consumers and organi-
zations working in this field, such as farmer’s markets, cite a radius of 50–100 miles
(80–160 km) from production to point of sale as the determining factor. Weather condi-
tions, urbanization or production capacity of the area also have an impact on the defini-
tion of local, sometimes extending the acceptable zone into a larger regional area. In
2010 the USDA began using a definition that implies food can be marketed as local or
regional if the total distance the product was transported is less than 400 miles (640 km)
from where it originated.
Chefs are using the public’s interest in eating locally produced foods to create restau-
rant menus featuring such products. Some chefs, like their pre-industrial predecessors,
now grow their own produce, raise their own pigs or chickens and forage from nearby
forests for ingredients. They may contract with local farmers, beekeepers, cheese makers
or fishermen to supply products, building their menus according to product availability,
rather than serving out-of-season items or those transported long distances. In its purest
version, farm-to-table means that the foods served come directly from a local farm, with-
out passing through a market, distributor or grocery store. It implies a relationship
between the chef and the farmer, with the chef serving the farm’s products at their peak
of freshness, ripeness and flavor. Farm-to-table menus may change daily due to product
availability, and preparation techniques focus on retaining nutrients and freshness. Chef Raymond Blanc samples radishes grown
in the greenhouse at Belmond Le Manoir aux
Sustainability Quat’Saisons, Oxford, England.

It is important to keep in mind that coming from nearby or being produced on a small
farm does not necessarily mean the foods themselves are healthier, organic or in any

M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 41 26/05/2022 14:09

 42 CHAPTER ONE
The farm at Fäviken, a restaurant in Järpen,
Sweden, supplies much of the food prepared by
chef Magnus Nilsson and his staff.
fairtrade a global social movement that helps
commodity producers in developing countries
obtain a fair deal for their export goods (such as
fruit, coffee beans and cacao beans), supports
sustainable farming practices and discourages
the use of certain pesticides and bans child labor
M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 42
way more natural. Sustainable and local are related concepts, but not necessarily the
same thing. The term sustainability refers to the practices used to minimize human
impact on the environment and protect natural resources. Sustainability is an integrated
and systematic approach to what and how we consume. Energy and water consumption,
land use, building construction and waste disposal all have an impact on sustainability.
In the realm of food service, sustainability refers to growing or harvesting foodstuffs in
an environmentally and socially responsibility manner. Sustainable farming practices
include avoiding or minimizing the use of herbicides and pesticides, dry farming without
irrigation and reducing the consumption of fossil fuels. Reducing packaging, composting
and reducing transportation time by selling directly to consumers, all help farmers lessen
their environmental impact. Such practices can also improve the socioeconomic condi-
tions of the community and the health of farm workers.
For food service establishments, sustainability can begin with some simple steps.
Minimize the food miles, the distance food travels to reach the establishment, by pur-
chasing foodstuffs grown locally. Growing herbs and produce onsite also reduces fuel
consumed by transportation. Incorporate more diverse local crops into your menu, and
educate your staff so that they can explain these items to customers in a positive manner.
Compost vegetable trimmings and coffee grounds to share with a local farm that recycles
waste into nourishment. Install a water filtration system and replace bottled water with
your own filtered water for customers, served in reusable glass. Use green cleaning prod-
ucts and biodegradable paper products; recycling cardboard, metal, glass and other trash
are easily adopted sustainable practices.
Chefs can also use the principles of sustainability to foster their creativity. Two
Scandinavian chefs have received worldwide renown for using only local products to
create exciting new cuisines. Chefs René Redzepi of Noma and Restaurant 108 in
Copenhagen, and Magnus Nilsson of Fäviken in Järpen, Sweden, rely on local ingredi-
ents to create ever-changing, highly unusual seasonal menus and award-winning res-
taurants. In Charleston, South Carolina, chef Sean Brock serves not only locally
produced foods, but also researches and grows heirloom produce such as peas, corn,
tomatoes and farro to serve in his restaurant Husk. Brock works with seed banks to
bring back indigenous crops and even raises an heirloom breed of pigs that he uses in
traditional dishes from the antebellum South. Instead of creating a new cuisine, Husk
offers patrons historic recipes and dishes made with authentic, fresh and locally grown
and raised ingredients.
Even without planting a restaurant garden, almost any chef can participate in these
movements by buying as many seasonal, locally produced products as possible and
using imported items, such as coffee, bananas and chocolate, that are fairtrade certified.
Social Changes
Demographic and social changes have contributed to the diversification of the food ser-
vice industry by creating or identifying new consumer groups that each have their own
desires or preferences. The needs of dual income households, single-parent families and
an aging population, as well as other market segments, impact the places and ways in
which foods are sold and consumed. By tailoring their menu, prices and décor accord-
ingly, food service operators cater to consumers defined by age, type of household,
income, education, geography and many other factors.
The number and types of institutions providing food services is also increasing. These
include hospitals, schools, retirement centers, sports facilities, cruise ships, private clubs,
hotels and resorts (which may in turn have fine dining, coffee shop, quick service, ban-
quet and room service facilities), supermarkets, factories and office buildings. The lines
between restaurant meals and at-home dining have blurred, as food is now prepared and
consumed in a greater number of environments than ever before.
At the same time, consumers are becoming better educated and more sophisticated
through travel or exposure to the many television programs, websites, books and maga-
zines about food. Educated consumers provide a market for new cuisines as well as
appreciation for innovative quality food service.
26/05/2022 14:09
 PROFESSIONALISM 43

Chefs Work toward a Sustainable Future

An individual chef working in a specific
restaurant may seem to have only a limited
impact in the sustainably movement. Chefs
can, however, lead this movement in a way that
other public figures, government officials and
environmental activists cannot.
Chef Alice Waters is now a world-renowned
restaurateur, author and culinary activist. In
1995 she founded the Edible Schoolyard
Project, which funds kitchens and organic
gardens as interactive classrooms in public
schools. Teaching children about food and the
environment can transform their attitudes and
behavior. In a 2014 essay for the Wall Street
Journal, Waters said, “The reality is that the
sustainable-food movement’s reach
will . . . ultimately be limited to those with
access, means and education—unless legislators
dramatically change food and agriculture
policy.” She noted that government officials
and decision makers must realize that “the
most sensible way to have a lasting impact is
with a program of ‘edible education’” for
children. The Edible Schoolyard has expanded
to Yale University and the American Academy in
Rome and is a model for similar eco-education
programs nationwide.
Another leader in the field is Dan Barber,
chef of Blue Hill in New York City and Blue Hill
at Stone Barns in upstate New York. A prolific
writer and public speaker, Barber is one of
today’s leading proponents for local, farm-
based cuisines. Barber supplies both
restaurants from the Stone Barns Center for
Food and Agriculture, a working farm and
educational center. What the farm doesn’t
provide, he sources from local green markets
The Edible Schoolyard teaching garden in New
Orleans, Louisiana, a project based on the program
founded by Alice Waters in Berkeley, California.
and one-to-one relationships with other farms.
Stone Barns Center also educates and
encourages consumers—children and adults—
about food choices and the ethical treatment
of animals.
The focus of Barber’s current work is to
encourage appreciation and use of secondary
or rotation crops, crops that farmers must
plant intermittently to ensure healthy soil.
Cover and rotation crops such as buckwheat,
millet, kidney beans and clover produce little
revenue but keep the soil fertile. Rotation crops
are essential for production of the higher profit
margin, more culinarily desirable crops. For
farmers, the expense of planting rotation crops
is a significant cost of doing business in an
organic system. These foods may not be trendy
or even recognizable to diners, but they can be
delicious and offer chefs a forum for creativity
and an opportunity to practice true
sustainability. “Where farm-to-table gets it
wrong,” Barber states, “is in cherry-picking
ingredients that are often ecologically
demanding and expensive to grow. Ingredients
such as tomatoes, peas and asparagus
are . . . luxuries that allow us to ignore the
bigger picture of the whole farm and what is
needed to sustain it.” True sustainability allows
the land to dictate the menu, instead of
creating a menu and then sourcing products.
Chefs throughout the world strive to
provide ethically sourced ingredients and
operate businesses under a model of
sustainability. The U.K.-based Sustainable
Restaurant Association (SRA), led by chef
Raymond Blanc, provides member restaurants
with advice on improving sustainability
practices. SRA also accredits restaurants that
meet specific standards in three areas—
sourcing, society and environmental impact—
and evaluates establishments chosen for The
World’s 50 Best Restaurants™ awards for
sustainability. Recent winners in the
sustainability category include Relæ in
Copenhagen; Septime in Paris; D.O.M. in São
Paulo and Narisawa in Tokyo, showing that
sustainability and environmental concerns are
important to chefs throughout the world.
For the efforts of these chefs to have a real
impact on our global environment, however,
consumers must also adopt sustainable,
eco-friendly practices. Being sustainable does
not mean knowing the name of the farmer who
grew your pork or buying tomatoes at the local
farmer’s market. Focusing on heirloom crops
and heritage breeds of livestock is nostalgia,
not a solution. The solution lies in moving away
from industrially produced foods and single
repetitive crops towards local food producers
and a wider range of less well-known products.

THE MODERN KITCHEN BRIGADE

To function efficiently, a food service operation must be well organized and staffed with
appropriate personnel. This staff is traditionally called a brigade. See Figure 1.1. Escoffier brigade a system of staffing a kitchen so that
is credited with developing the classic kitchen brigade system used in large restaurant each worker is assigned a set of specific tasks;
kitchens; modern kitchens use a simplified version of this brigade in order to reduce these tasks are often related by cooking
labor costs and streamline operations. Although a chef will be most familiar with the method, equipment or the types of foods being
produced
back-of-the-house or kitchen brigade, he or she should also understand how the dining
room or front of the house is organized.
Today’s food service operations are generally led by an executive chef, who coordi-
nates kitchen activities and directs the kitchen staff’s training and work efforts. The execu-
tive chef plans menus and creates recipes. He or she sets and enforces nutrition, safety
and sanitation standards and participates in (or at least observes) the preparation and

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 44 CHAPTER ONE
The Classic Kitchen Brigade
From the chaos and redundancy found in the
private kitchens of the 19th century’s
aristocracy, Auguste Escoffier created a distinct
hierarchy of responsibilities and functions for
food service operations.
At the top is the chef de cuisine or chef, who
is responsible for all operations, developing
menu items and setting the kitchen’s tone and
tempo.
The chef ’s principal assistant is the
sous-chef (the under chef or second chef ), who
is responsible for scheduling personnel and
replacing the chef and station chefs as
necessary. The sous-chef also often functions
as the aboyeur (expediter or expo), who
accepts the orders from the dining room,
relays them to the various station chefs and
then reviews the dishes before service. In
large kitchens, a communard prepares meals
for the staff.
The chefs de partie (station chefs) produce
the menu items under the direct supervision of
the chef or sous-chef. Before the brigade system
was common, whenever a cook needed an
item, assistants produced it; thus several cooks
could be making the same sauce or basic
preparation. Under Escoffier’s system, each
station chef is assigned a specific task based on
either the cooking method and equipment or
the category of items to be produced. They
include the following:
▪▪ The saucier (sauté station chef), who holds
one of the most demanding jobs in the
classical kitchen, is responsible for most
sauces and all sautéed items.
▪▪ The poissonier (fish station chef) is responsible
for fish and shellfish items and their sauces.
▪▪ The grillardin (grill station chef) is responsible
for all grilled items.
M01_LABE3751_06_GE_C01.indd 44
presentation of menu items to ensure that quality standards are rigorously and consistently
maintained. He or she is also responsible for purchasing food items and, often, equip-
ment. In some food service operations, the executive chef may assist in designing the
menu, dining room and kitchen. He or she trains the dining room staff so that they can
correctly answer questions about the menu. He or she may also work with food purvey-
ors, catering directors, equipment vendors, financial consultants, the media, sanitation
inspectors and dietitians. In some operations, a chef with some or all of these responsi-
bilities may be referred to as a chef de cuisine.
The executive chef is assisted by a sous-chef or executive sous-chef, whose primary
responsibility is to make sure that the food is prepared, portioned, garnished and pre-
sented according to the executive chef’s standards. The sous-chef may be the cook prin-
cipally responsible for producing menu items and supervising the kitchen.
Chef de cuisine
Aboyeur (expediter) Sous-chef Communard (staff cook)
Chefs de partie (station chefs)
Commis (cooks or assistant cooks)
Figure 1.1 The Classic Kitchen Brigade
▪▪ The friturier (fry station chef ) is responsible boucher (butcher), who is responsible for
for all fried items. butchering meats and poultry, as well as the
▪▪ The rôtisseur (roast station chef ) is chefs responsible for hors d’oeuvre and
responsible for all roasted items and jus or breakfast items.
other related sauces. ▪▪ The tournant, also known as the roundsman
or swing cook, works where needed.
▪▪ The potager (soup station chef) is responsible
for soups and stocks. ▪▪ The pâtissier (pastry chef ) is responsible
▪▪
for all baked items, including breads,
The légumier (vegetable station chef) is
pastries and desserts. The pâtissier
responsible for all vegetable and starch items.
supervises the boulanger (bread baker),
The potager and légumier functions are often who makes the breads, rolls and baked
combined into a single vegetable station whose flaky dough containers to hold savory
chef is known as the entremetier. Entremets were dishes; the confiseur, who makes candies
the courses served after the roast; they usually and petit fours; the glacier, who makes all
comprised vegetables, fruits, fritters or sweet chilled and frozen desserts; and the
items (the sorbet served before the main course décorateur, who makes showpieces and
in some contemporary restaurants is a vestigial special cakes.
entremet).
Depending on the size and needs of any
▪▪ The garde-manger (pantry chef ) is responsible station or area, there may be one or more
for cold food preparations, including salads demi-chefs (assistants) and commis (second year
and salad dressings, cold appetizers, cooks) as well as apprentis (student cooks) who
charcuterie items, pâtés, terrines and similar work with the station chef or pastry chef to
dishes. The garde-manger supervises the learn the area.
26/05/2022 14:09
Another random document with
no related content on Scribd:
The Project Gutenberg eBook of Meddler's Moon
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States
and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no
restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it
under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this
ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the
United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where
you are located before using this eBook.

Title: Meddler's Moon

Author: George O. Smith

Illustrator: Vincent Napoli

Release date: June 14, 2022 [eBook #68313]

Language: English

Original publication: United States: Street & Smith Publications,

Incorporated, 1947

Credits: Greg Weeks, Mary Meehan and the Online Distributed

Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MEDDLER'S

MOON ***
MEDDLER'S MOON
 BY GEORGE O. SMITH

Illustrated by Napoli

[Transcriber's Note: This etext was produced from

Astounding Science-Fiction, September 1947.
Extensive research did not uncover any evidence that
the U.S. copyright on this publication was renewed.]
Peter Hedgerly heard the door open and close and he smiled at his
reflection in the mirror. He turned partly and called out through the
semi-closed bedroom door.
"Sit down, honey. I'll be right out."
Joan Willson was early, he thought, but it made no matter. It merely
gave them more time togeth—
"I'll sit down," came a deep, pleasant masculine rumble, "but I'm not
your honey!"
Peter hit the door and skidded into the living room, his loose shirttail
flying out behind him. "Who're you?" he demanded sharply.
"Please do not be disturbed. Finish dressing," said the stranger.
Peter measured him. A few pounds heavier than Peter's one
hundred and sixty; an inch taller than Peter's five feet eleven. About
the same sandy blond complexion. The face was wreathed in a
beatific smile that in no way matched Peter's exasperation.
"I'm expecting a guest," snapped Peter. "The door was open for ...
the guest. Not for stray strangers seeking company or whatever."
"I know. My presence will make no difference."
"No difference?" exploded Peter angrily. "Look, sport, three's a
crowd. Technically, you're trespassing. Shall I prove it by calling the
police?"
"You may if you wish," replied the stranger. "But I happen to know for
certain that you will not."
"No?" snapped Peter. He headed toward the telephone with all of the
determination in the world. The stranger watched him tolerantly.
Peter reached the table beside the door and reached for the phone.
As his hand touched it, the door opened and Joan Willson came in.
She gulped at Peter and said: "Oh!"
Peter became aware of the fact that his nether raiment consisted of
shoes, socks, paisley-print shorts and a curtailed-shirttailed WPB
model shirt.
He echoed Joan's "Oh!"
His ejaculation died like the diminishing wail of a retreating fire siren.
That was because the duration of the monosyllabic diphthong
exceeded the time necessary for Peter to gain the security of the
bedroom where he donned his trousers and wished there were
something he could do to cover the blush of embarrassment on his
face. His ears especially.
Through the door he heard the stranger say: "Please come in, Miss
Willson. Peter's condition is but temporary."
"But why ... what ... and who are you?"
"That's a long story," replied the stranger. He turned and called out to
Peter. "I told you you'd not call the police!"
"Police!" exclaimed Joan. "Peter, is ... is—?"
"Not at all," said the stranger, interrupting her and intercepting the
words which had been intended for Peter. "I've had too little time to
make explanation. I'm Joseph Hedgerly."
"Relative of his?" asked Joan.
"Quite. And quite close."
Peter called: "Never heard of you."
"You will," replied Hedgerly. "You see, Peter, I'm here to help you."
"And if I need no help?"
"You do."
"Let me be judge, huh?" snapped Peter.
"You're in poor position to judge. That's why this help is thrust upon
you, so to speak. After a bit you'll understand."
"Thanks," said Peter. Slowly he came into the living room again and
faced Joan, still flushed.
"Honest, Joan," he started, but the girl shrugged. "Don't apologize for
a sheer accident," she said.
"It was no accident," said Hedgerly.
Peter whirled. "Look, chaperone, who invited you in? As for any
relation of mine? Are you?"
Hedgerly arose carefully. "I am Joseph Hedgerly, your grandson."
Joan looked at Peter and laughed heartily. "Peter Faust Hedgerly.
Having a thirty-odd year grandson is quite a record for such as you,"
she told him. "You will only be thirty-two next birthday."
Peter turned to the other angrily. "Can it," he snapped. "Grandson
my ankle!"
"I am your grandson."
"Yeah ... sure. Shall I call the cops now?"
"You could, but you will not."
"Oh spinach!" Peter headed for the phone again but the stranger
said, quietly, "Might listen to me, Peter."
Peter stopped, turned, and said: "Explain—and explain fast!"
"You are a physicist with the Abstract Laboratory at Chicago. You
also tinker in your study here. Your son—my father—will take up
home-tinkering also, and your son's son—myself—will eventually
discover the secret of time travel. I've done this. I am now here to
see that things evolve with a minimum of effort."
Peter shrugged. "You could have saved your time," he said. "If you'd
not interfered, I'd have asked Miss Willson to marry me."
"That's the point," smiled Hedgerly. "You see, Peter, my
grandmother's name was not Willson, nor Joan. Peter Hedgerly—
according to the family history—married a girl by the name of Marie
Baker."
"Never heard of her," grunted Peter.
"You will," smiled Hedgerly. He turned to Joan. "I'm sorry," he told
her. "I have nothing against you: in fact you appear to be of the
finest. You will naturally understand there is nothing personal in any
of this. It is merely a matter of historic fact that Peter will marry Marie
Baker."
"Mr. Hedgerly," she said, "I dislike you thoroughly. Furthermore, I'm
not too certain that history is as solid as you think. Until further
notice, then, I hereby accept Peter's sidelong proposal of a moment
ago."
"Joan!" cried Peter running forward and folding the girl in his arms.
"Very fetching," observed Hedgerly with the air of a man observing
the antics of a couple of goldfish in the proverbial bowl.
"Considerable boundless and mutual enthusiasm, but both terribly
and unhappily misdirected. In other words a sheer waste of time and
energy."
Joan and Peter unclinched and faced Hedgerly. "We like it," they
said in chorus.
Hedgerly nodded understandingly. "But Marie Baker wouldn't."
"Let's go out, Peter," pleaded the girl earnestly. "This unwelcome bird
makes me feel like a female homewrecker!"
Hedgerly beamed. "Do go," he said. "And enjoy yourselves until I
can locate Peter's future wife—my grandmother."

The big machine should have been quiet according to theory. It had
no moving mechanical parts to hum or gears to clash nor levers to
chatter. It had for its moving-member a magnetic field that varied on
a pure sine wave of intensity from a terrific flux-density in one
direction, through zero, and thence to an equally terrific flux-density
in the opposite polarity. At one newspaper interview as the machine
was being built some reporter had erroneously noted that the
magnetic field strength at maximum was strong enough to affect the
iron in your blood. This was intended for sheer hyperbole, but the
fact remained that the magnetic field between the big pole pieces
was strong enough to warp the path of light. Well, the shift could be
measured with the most delicate of optical instruments.
Theoretically, a varying magnetic field should not make a sound.
Actually, it did. The field at maximum was strong enough to cause
deep magnetostriction of the magnetic metals of the machine. They
vibrated in sympathy with the varying field: their dimensions
changing enough to set up sound waves in the air of the room.
So the theoretically silent machine actually made a clear humming
roar that shattered the eardrums and seemed to press offensively on
the skulls of those working within the chamber.
Even Peter Hedgerly found it oppressing after an hour or two, and he
of all men should have been used to it.
He removed his eye from the observing telescope and blinked to
relieve the strain. He looked up at Joan, nodded affably, and his right
hand snapped the main switch.
The terrible humming roar died. "Hello," he said brightly. "What
brings you here?"
Joan Willson laughed sourly. She handed Peter a newspaper. Peter
bent his head to read:
Personal! Marie Baker, Age 27, weight 114, brunette,
brown eyes, minute scar on left thigh. Social Security
Number 340-01-6077 please contact—
"I don't want her!" stormed Peter.
"The advertisement says you do," cooed Joan.
"Now look, Joan—"
She laughed and laid a cool hand on his cheek affectionately. "I
know you don't. But I did want to point out that your—grandson—is
wasting no time."
Another voice interrupted. "Naturally not," interjected Hedgerly. "After
all, I'm here to see that things do go according to history."
"History be damned," snapped Peter. "I—"
"Really have very little to say about it," smiled Hedgerly. "You'll do
exactly as ... as you did!"
"Then," blazed Peter, "why not let nature take its course? If I'm to
meet and commit matrimony with this Baker dame, I'll do it!"
For the first time, Hedgerly looked less than the complete master of
everything he surveyed. "It is also historic fact," he said in a
sepulchral tone, "that I add my efforts to make history satisfy itself.
You see," he said, brightening, "how it all comes out!" He dug into an
inside pocket and came up with a wallet. From it he extracted a
newspaper clipping yellow and brittle with age. "Here is the original. I
just copied it for the advertisement."

Peter took the aged clipping and read it. His hands shook and the
clipping fell apart.
"No matter," smiled Hedgerly. "Its job is done."
"Is done?" demanded Peter.
"Of course. Marie Baker will be at your apartment this evening."
"I'll scratch her bald-headed," threatened Joan.
Hedgerly shook his head. "No, you won't," he said positively. Then
he looked down at Peter and his eyes ran over the experimental
setup. "It won't work," he said to Peter. "You're on the wrong track. It
is impossible to accelerate and focus and direct the neutron. The
neutron, possessing no charge, is therefore unaffected by either
magnetic or electrostatic fields."
Peter looked up quietly. "I've evidence to the contrary," he said. "We
believe that the neutron does possess a charge: that it is
theoretically impossible for anything to exist without some charge,
though the charge may be exceedingly minute. We believe the
neutron to be possessed of a charge of plus or minus—depending
upon the moment of intrinsic angular momentum—ten to the minus
fifteenth electrostatic units less than that of the electron. Therefore
—"
"You will find that the experimental evidence you get is impure," said
Hedgerly. "You'll save time if you abandon this project."
"Indeed? And what should I take up?"
"You'll do history a better turn if you take to investigating the
magnetic properties of mass."
"Is that a matter of history, too?"
Hedgerly shrugged. "If I told you all I know about it," he said in a
superior tone that made Peter want to commit homicide, "then you'd
have too much time to sit around and feel frustrated because fate is
a written book."
"Spinach," snorted Peter. His hand hit the main switch again and the
humming roar leaped out at them from all sides. Peter grinned as he
noted the wrist watch on Hedgerly's arm. Unless the character had a
one thousand per cent nonmagnetic movement, the insides by now
would be keeping the Devil's Own Time.
It was nine o'clock. For the eleventh time since dinner, Peter leaned
out of his study and called: "Now?"
Hedgerly shook his head. "Not yet," he said.
"Well," said Peter this time. "Come in here. I'm on the trail of
something."
"I know," replied Hedgerly. "You've discovered the Hedgerly Effect."
"The what?" stumbled Peter.
"Named after its discoverer. You're quite famous in the future, you
know," replied Hedgerly.
"What is this Hedgerly Effect?"
"The one you've just discovered," replied Hedgerly.
Joan Willson, present because of sheer curiosity pertaining to this
Marie Baker creature whom she was prepared to dislike on sight,
looked up from her book and drawled: "Oh brilliant repartee. You
sound like that Cyril Smith routine that goes 'Who's he? Who's who?
Him, the man in the picture. What picture?' And so forth for about an
hour."
Peter smiled. "I suppose," he said. "But it's his fault, not mine. This
effect is a sort of artificial generation of gravitic force."
Hedgerly nodded. "The first historic discovery that proves the
relationship between magnetic phenomena and gravitic force. Now
we're on the right trail," he concluded. Hedgerly walked over to the
small barrette and mixed himself a drink. He lounged back against
the bar and lifted his glass. "To my grandfather," he said, "The
discoverer of the Hedgerly Effect!"
Peter looked at Joan weakly. "It's fratricide to kill a brother, patricide
to kill a father, homicide to kill just anybody, infanticide to kill your
son, but what is it to kill a grandson?"
Joan looked Hedgerly up and down and her lip curled in derision.
"Insecticide," she snapped. "Ignore him. Maybe he'll go away. But
Peter, what does this gravitic effect mean?"
"I'm not too certain," replied Peter wrinkling his brow. "Of course,
since gravitic fields do act upon mass without charge, we can now
filter out, accelerate, and focus the neutron—or we will be able to as
soon as we get this effect refined. And if we can generate gravitic
fields at will, we can nullify the gravitic mass or gravitic attraction of
masses. That means a complete revision of all the mass-ratio tables
pertaining to space rockets. In fact, it may do away with rockets
entirely. And the following is conjecture but may be possible:
"The reason that the limiting velocity is the speed of light is due to
the fact that the mass approaches infinity as the speed of light is
reached. That means that no possible energetic principle can be
used to attain the speed of light since this increase of mass is a
statement of the mass-energy put into the article accelerated. In
other words, Joan, to increase the velocity of anything to the speed
of light requires that you pack into it the equivalent energy required
to raise its mass to infinity. Meaning of course, infinite energy.
"However, if this local generation of a gravitic field can be used to
nullify mass, we can make a space-ship that need not increase in
mass as its velocity increases.
"Providing that my reasoning is any good. This is just conjecture and
guess. I don't know yet how much this gravitic generator will cover."
"You've done a fair job so far," said Hedgerly, mixing another drink.
"Of course, you'll let it drop there."
"Let it drop?" yelled Peter. "With a thing like this at my doorstep?
With the twinkle of a slide rule I can become the Originator of
Interstellar Travel, and you expect me to let it slip?"
Hedgerly smiled tolerantly. "The discoverer of the Hedgerly Effect
does not become involved with space travel," he pointed out with a
knowing air. "He does become the layer of the cornerstone for Time
Travel, which we believe is as important."
Peter looked glumly at Joan. "Methinks of suicide," he groaned. "I
invent Time Travel and for the next million years my invention
becomes the curse of mankind. Pandora's Box never let out any
trouble-scorpion as bad as people like my temporally-gadding
grandson!"
"Now, grandpop, don't be bitter," laughed Hedgerly.
"Grandpop?" yelled Peter. "I'll—"
The doorbell rang, interrupting a string of threats. Hedgerly stepped
springily to the door, opened it, and said: "Please come in, Miss
Baker. We're expecting you."
Peter whistled.
Joan hissed.
The room became three degrees warmer.
Miss Marie Baker was curvaceous. Miss Marie Baker was dressed to
prove it. Miss Marie Baker knew it. The Petty-Girl calendar on Peter's
living room wall took on a drab and lumpy appearance and on the
table beside the divan, a magazine cover became blank as the
model headed for the powder room.
Marie Baker spoke, and Arthur Sullivan moved in his grave because
the sound of her voice was that reminiscent of that great Lost Chord
of music. "I'm quite mystified," she said.
Hedgerly took her slender hand. "Please come in," he said. "And
we'll try to explain. You've come, Marie, to be introduced to your
future husband!"
The door behind Marie filled again—and filled is the proper term. He
stood six feet four, the floor creaked under his two hundred and
twelve pounds of sheer muscle, and the litheness of his step carried
him with pantherine grace. "May I point out," he said in a voice that
reeked of Harvard, Cambridge, and a complete disregard of the
letter 'R,' "that Miss Baker may be already acquainted with her future
husband?"
Hedgerly faced the giant. "Please," he said in a pained voice. "I'm
having enough trouble now without your unwelcome aid. Any
relationship between you and Marie Baker must shortly become, at
best, platonic."
A small brass figurine of Rodin's Discobolus took a sidelong look and
made the brazen observation that being platonic with such as Miss
Baker was an idea never suggested by his friend Plato. Plato had
too much sense.
"Just how do you figure in this?" demanded the giant.
"Have we met?" asked Hedgerly.
"I'm Anthony Graydon. And my query goes still."
"Pleased to know you, Mr. Graydon. I trust your intentions toward
Miss Baker are simple?"
"Miss Baker happens to be wearing my engagement ring," returned
Graydon. Hedgerly looked, and saw a bit of glitter about the size of a
small pigeon's egg on her left hand.
Hedgerly shook his head sadly. "May I introduce Miss Willson?" he
suggested. "Miss Willson, will you meet Mr. Graydon? Perhaps, Mr.
Graydon, the no-longer-needed engagement ring will fit Miss
Willson."
Anthony Graydon looked down on the time-traveling man with grand
contempt. "You have all the sheer, cockeyed assurance of an
egomaniac," he said. "Is Marie supposed to marry you?"
"Oh no," explained Hedgerly. "She'll marry him. Miss Baker, may I
present Mr. Hedgerly. Marie, this is Peter."
He took Anthony by one arm and Joan Willson by the other and
steered them towards the door. "Let us leave them alone," he said.
"They must become acquainted."
"Look," snapped Anthony, "this has gone far enough—"
"Please," interrupted Hedgerly, "this is serious. Miss Willson will tell
you that what I say is true, however unwilling she is to face the bitter
truth. It is only a matter of time before Miss Baker becomes Mrs.
Peter Hedgerly."
The door closed softly behind the three of them before Tony Graydon
turned to Hedgerly and said: "What kind of high-octane are you
using in your crystal ball these days, Swami?"
"Swami? But please, this is not the work of a charlatan. This is
historic fact."
"Sure. So is my girl marrying that bird, huh?"
"They will marry," replied Hedgerly.
"Yeah? That's not very complimentary to me," snapped Graydon.
"I've been number One man with Marie for quite some time now. I
hardly think—"
"Give them time," replied Hedgerly succinctly. "In a short period, the
propinquity in which they are thrust—"
Graydon whirled Hedgerly around by grabbing both lapels of the coat
in one large, well manicured hand. "Propinquity!" exploded Graydon
in full volume, which was enough to cause endless echoes up and
down the corridor. Then even the echoes had echoes for a full
minute.
Joan Willson backed out of the way. The hand that enclosed both
lapels of Hedgerly's coat looked well manicured and in excellent
care, but she had a firm hunch that well-tended included the matter
of keeping it firm, hard, and dangerous. Graydon was no cream puff,
and of a size where even a cream puff is respected.
But Graydon did not dust his knuckles off against Hedgerly's nose.
Breeding came to the fore, and Graydon let the other man relax.
"Propinquity," he said in a level voice that sounded very firm,
"presupposes that you and I and possibly Miss Willson are going to
spend some time in hurling my fiancee and that character together."
"Of course we are," replied Hedgerly, with all of the assurance in the
world.
"We—are—not!"
"Oh, but we are," said Hedgerly. "And I'll tell you why."
Graydon smiled bitterly. "This," he said to Joan, "is going to be
good." He looked at Hedgerly. "It had better be!"

Marie Baker shrugged her shapely shoulders and looked very

puzzled. "I don't understand," she said.
"Miss Baker, please let me explain," pleaded Peter. She nodded, and
Peter plunged into the explanation as completely as he could. Then
—
"Peter," she said quietly and very sincerely, "I'd hate to hurt your
feelings, but I'm afraid that ... that—" her magnificent voice trailed off
weakly as she fumbled with the pint-sized diamond on her left hand.
Peter patted her shoulder. "I am glad you are a sensible woman," he
told her. "I'm rather taken up with Joan, you know."
"Then what can we do?" cried Marie.
"I don't know," grumbled Peter. "This is the way I see it; he's ... uh ...
our grandson, and—" he looked at her curiously. "Uh ... what's the
matter?" he asked suspiciously.
Her laughter came bubbling up from below the surface and it tinkled
across the apartment like the sound and fragrance of a bubbling
fountain. It was a genuine laugh deep and hearty and just long
enough to be enjoyed. Then she explained: "I'm sorry—not really
sorry about laughing, I mean, but look, Peter, have you ever
considered that you and I have been formally introduced by our
grandson?"
"It sounds slightly indecent to me," grumbled Peter.
Marie shook her head. "If anything," she said quietly and sincerely,
"is fait-accompli it is the very definite person of—our grandson."
"I'd been psychopathically avoiding that," he said. "Trying to ignore
it."