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 THE COUNSELLOR’S CUP.

Rub a quarter of a pound of sugar upon the rinds of two fine China
oranges, put it into an enamelled stewpan, and pour on it a pint of
water; let these boil gently for two or three minutes, then pour in half
a pint of China orange-juice mixed with that of one lemon, and
previously strained through muslin; the moment this begins to boil,
pour it into a hot jug, and stir to it half a pint of the best Cognac
brandy. Serve it immediately. When preferred cold, prepare the syrup
with the juice of the fruit, cover it down in the jug, set it into ice, or
into a very cool place, and add the spirit only just before the cup is
wanted for table. Should the fruit be very acid, increase the
proportion of sugar. A few slight strips of the rind of a Seville orange
cut very thin, would to many tastes be an agreeable addition to the
beverage; which should be made always with fresh sound fruit.
Sugar, 4 oz. (6 if needed); rasped rinds of China oranges, 2; water,
1 pint: 3 minutes. Strained juice of China oranges mixed with that of
1 large lemon, 1/2 pint; best Cognac brandy, 1/2 pint.
Obs.—For a large cup these proportions must be doubled. Sherry
or Madeira substituted for the brandy, will make a pleasant cool cup
of this kind; and equal parts of well made lemonade, and of any good
light white wine, thoroughly cooled down, will give another agreeable
beverage for warm weather; but a much smaller proportion of wine
would better adapt it to many tastes.
 CHAPTER XXX.

Coffee, Chocolate, &c.

 COFFEE.

There is no beverage which is held in more universal esteem than

good coffee, and none in this country at least, which is obtained with
greater difficulty (unless indeed it be pure wine). We hear constant
and well-founded complaints both from foreigners and English
people, of the wretched compounds so commonly served up here
under its name, especially in many lodging houses, hotels, and
railway refreshment rooms;[182] yet nothing can well be easier than
to prepare it properly. Some elaborate and various fanciful modes of
making it have been suggested at different times by writers fond of
novelty, but they have in general nothing to recommend them
beyond the more simple processes which follow, and of which we
believe the result will seldom prove unsatisfactory to our readers,
unless it be to such of them as may have been accustomed to the
spiced or other peculiar Oriental preparations of the fragrant berry, or
simply to the exquisite quality of it, which would appear to be
obtainable only in the East; or which, at all events, is beyond the
reach of the mass of English consumers, and of their near
Continental neighbours.
182. At some of the principal stations on lines connected with the coast, by which
an immense number of strangers pass and repass, the coffee is so bad, that
great as the refreshment of it would be to them, particularly in night travelling,
in very cold weather, they reject it as too nauseous to be swallowed. A little
national pride ought surely to prevent this, if no higher principle interfered to
do so; for to exact the full price of a good commodity, and habitually to supply
only trash for it, is a commercial disgrace.
 TO ROAST COFFEE.

Persons who drink coffee habitually, and who are very particular
about its flavour and quality, should purchase the best kind in a raw
state, keep it for two or three years if they are not certain that it has
been so long harvested—as when new it is greatly inferior to that
which has been kept—and have it roasted at home. This can be
cheaply done in small quantities by means of the inexpensive
apparatus shown above; the cost of it not exceeding seven or eight
shillings, and the supply of charcoal needed for it being very trifling
indeed; or, with that inserted below, which is larger and about double
the price. The cylinder which contains the coffee should be only half
filled, and it should be turned rather slowly over the fire, which
should never be fierce, until a strong aromatic smell is emitted; the
movement should then be quickened, as the grain is in that case
quite heated, and it will become too highly coloured before it is
roasted through, if slowly finished. When it is of a fine, light, equal
brown, which must be ascertained, until some little experience has
been acquired, by sliding back the door of the cylinder, and looking
at it occasionally towards the end of the process, spread it quickly
upon a large dish, and throw a thickly folded cloth over it. Let it
remain thus until it is quite cold; then put it immediately into canisters
or bottles, and exclude the air carefully from it.

Patent Percolator, with Spirit Lamp.

 A FEW GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING COFFEE.

When good coffee is desired, let it be procured if possible of a

first-rate London house[183] which can be depended on; and we
would recommend that it should be of the finest quality that can be
obtained; for there is no real economy in using that which is
nominally cheaper, as a larger quantity will be required to give the
same amount of strength, and the flavour will be very inferior. It
should always be freshly roasted; but when a constant and large
demand for it exists, it will be easy to have it so. When it has been
stored for any length of time it will be much freshened and improved
by being gently heated through, either in the oven or in a stewpan
held high above the fire. It should be often turned while it is warming,
and ground as soon as it is cold again. Never purchase it ready
ground unless compelled to do so. When no proper mill for it is fitted
up in the house, a small portable one, which may be had at a trifling
expense, will answer tolerably well for grinding it, though it cannot be
used with quite the same facility as those which are fastened firmly
to a wall; but whatever form of mill may be used it should be
arranged so as to reduce the berries to a moderately fine powder; for
if it be too coarse the essence will be only partially extracted from it
by filtering; and if it be extremely fine the water will not percolate
through it, and it will not be clear.
183. We could indicate several houses where unadulterated coffee may be
procured, but it is not always to be had from them so choice in quality as it
might be; and it is in general too highly roasted. By far the finest we have
ever tasted we had on two occasions, some years since, from Mr. Cobbett, of
Pall Mall. The fragrance of it was too remarkable to be easily forgotten, and
the flavour was exquisite; but it was apparently an accidental sample which
he had met with in the market, for though very good, that with which we were
supplied afterwards never equalled it.
Messrs. Staniforth and Co., 138, Oxford-street, are deservedly noted for the
excellence of their coffee. It is always ground at the instant of serving it to a
customer; and they have the complaisance of roasting even so small a
quantity as two pounds, to suit the taste of the purchaser: it may therefore be
procured of them as pale-dried as it can be wished.
 The house of Messrs. Decastro and Peach, next door to Hatchett’s Hotel,
Piccadilly, may likewise, we think, be quite depended on for supplying
genuine coffee to the public; and they have an immense demand for it.
We say nothing about mingling chicory with it. Our directions are
for making pure coffee; which, when not taken in excess, is, we
believe, a wholesome as well as a most agreeable beverage. The
effect of chicory is, we believe, to impart a slight bitter flavour to the
infusion, and to deepen its colour so much as to make it appear
much stronger than it really is. True connoisseurs, however, do not
attach any importance to the dark hue of coffee, the very choicest
that can be tasted being sometimes of quite a pale tint.
Always serve hot milk or cream, or hot milk and cold cream, if
preferred, with breakfast coffee. In the evening, when milk is served
at all with it, it should likewise be boiling.
Do not, in any way, make use of the residue of one day’s coffee in
preparing that of the next; you would but injure the purity of its
flavour by doing so, and effect next to nothing in the matter of
economy.[184]
184. When the coffee has been filtered in a proper manner, water poured
afterwards on the “grounds” as they are termed, will have scarcely any taste
or colour; this is not the case when it has been boiled.
 EXCELLENT BREAKFAST COFFEE.

A simple, well-made English filter, or percolator, as it is called, will

answer perfectly for making coffee; but from amongst the many of
more recent invention which are on sale, the reader who prefers one
of ornamental appearance, and of novel construction, will easily be
suited. The size of the filter must be adapted to the number of
persons for whom the coffee is to be prepared; for if a large quantity
of the powder be heaped into an insufficient space for it, there will
not be room for it to swell, and the water will not pass through. Put
three ounces of coffee into one which will contain in the lower
compartment two pints and a half; shake the powder quite level and
press it closely down; remove the presser, put on the top strainer,
and pour round and round, so as to wet the coffee equally, about the
third part of a measured pint of fast boiling water. Let this drain quite
through before more is added; then pour in—still quite boiling—in the
same manner as much more water, and when it has passed through,
add the remainder; let it drain entirely through, then remove the top
of the filter, put the cover on the part which contains the coffee, and
serve it immediately. It will be very strong, and perfectly clear. Fill the
breakfast cups two parts full of new boiling milk, and add as much of
the infusion as will give it the degree of strength which is agreeable
to those for whom it is prepared. When it is liked extremely strong,
the proportion of milk must be diminished, or less water be poured to
the coffee.
If nearly an additional half pint of water be added before the top of
the percolator is taken off, it will still be very good, provided that the
coffee used be really of first-rate quality.
To make cheaper breakfast coffee to be served in the usual
English mode, the same process should be followed, but the
proportion of water must be considerably increased: it should
always, however, be added by slow degrees.
Good breakfast coffee (for three persons). Best Mocha, in
moderately fine powder, ground at the instant of using it, 3 oz.;
boiling water added by degrees, 1 pint; (more at pleasure). Boiling
milk served with it, 1-1/2 pint to 1 quart. Common English coffee:
coffee-powder, 3 oz.; water, 1 quart, to be slowly filtered; hot milk,
half to whole pint. Cream in addition to either of the above, at choice.
 TO BOIL COFFEE.

To boil coffee and refine it, put the necessary quantity of water into
a pot which it will not fill by some inches; when it boils stir in the
coffee; for unless this be at once moistened, it will remain on the top
and be liable to fly over. Give it one or two strong boils, then raise it
from the fire, and simmer it for ten minutes only; pour out a large
cupful twice, hold it high over the coffee pot and pour it in again, then
set it on the stove where it will keep hot without simmering or moving
in the least, for ten minutes longer. It will be perfectly clear, unless
mismanaged, without any other fining. Should more, however, be
deemed necessary, a very small pinch of isinglass, or a clean egg-
shell, with a little of the white adhering to it, is the best that can be
used. Never use mustard to fine coffee with. It is a barbarous custom
of which we have heard foreigners who have been in England
vehemently complain.
Coffee, 2 oz.; water, 1 pint to 1 quart, according to the strength
required. Boiled 10 minutes; left to clear 10 minutes.
Remark.—Filtering is, we should say, a far more economical, and
in every way a superior mode of making coffee to boiling it; but as
some persons still prefer the old method, we insert the receipt for it.
 CAFÉ NOIR.

This is the very essence of coffee, and is served in nearly all

French families, as well in those of many other countries,
immediately after the rice-crust. About two-thirds of a small cupful—
not more—sweetened almost to syrup with highly refined sugar in
lumps, is usually taken by each person; in families of moderate rank,
generally before they leave the table; in more refined life, it is served
in the drawing-room the instant dinner is ended; commonly with
liqueurs after it, but not invariably. To make it, proceed exactly as for
the breakfast-coffee, but add only so much water as is required to
make the strongest possible infusion. White sugar-candy in powder
may be served with it in addition to the sugar in lumps.
 BURNT COFFEE, OR COFFEE À LA MILITAIRE.

(In France vulgarly called Gloria.)

Make some coffee as strong and as clear as possible, sweeten it
in the cup with white sugar almost to syrup, then pour the brandy on
the top gently over a spoon, set fire to it with a lighted paper, and
when the spirit is in part consumed, blow out the flame, and drink the
gloria quite hot.
 TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.

An ounce of chocolate, if
good, will be sufficient for one
person. Rasp, and then boil it
from five to ten minutes with
about four tablespoonsful of
water; when it is extremely
smooth add nearly a pint of new
milk, give it another boil, stir it
well, or mill it, and serve it
directly. For water-chocolate use
three-quarters of a pint of water
instead of the milk, and send
rich hot cream to table with it.
The taste must decide whether it
shall be made thicker or thinner.
Chocolate, 2 oz.; water,
quarter-pint, or rather more; milk, 1-3/4: 1/2 minute.
Obs.—The general reader will understand the use of the
chocolate-mill shown in the engraving with the pot; but to the
uninitiated it may be as well to observe, that it is worked quickly
round between both hands to give a fine froth to the chocolate. It
also serves in lieu of a whisk for working creams, or jellies, to a froth
or whip.
 A SPANISH RECIPE FOR MAKING AND SERVING CHOCOLATE.

Take of the best chocolate an ounce for each person, and half a
pint of cold water; rasp or break it small in a mortar, set it over a slow
fire, and stir or mill it gently until it has become quite smooth like
custard; pour it immediately into deep cups, and serve it with a glass
of sugar and water, or with iced water only[185] to each cup; and
with plates of very delicate dried toast cut in narrow strips, or with the
cakes called “ladies’ fingers.” Should the chocolate appear too thick,
a little water must be added. Milk is sometimes substituted for it
altogether.
185. Sometimes with a water ice, which should be of an appropriate character.
 TO MAKE COCOA.

Directions for making it are usually sold with the prepared, or best
quality of cocoa, which is merely mixed with boiling water in the
proportions indicated on the packets. That which is prepared from
the nibs requires several hours’ boiling, and should be left until it is
quite cold, that the oil which will be found on the surface may be
cleared from it before it is again heated for table: this is particularly
needful when it is to be served to persons in delicate health.
CHAPTER XXXI.

Bread.
 REMARKS ON HOME-MADE BREAD.

It is surely a singular fact that the one article of our daily food on
which health depends more than on any other, is precisely that which
is obtained in England with the greatest difficulty—good, light, and
pure bread—yet nothing can be more simple and easy than the
process of making it, either in large quantities or in small. From
constant failure, it is nevertheless considered so difficult in many
families, that recourse is had to the nearest baker, both in town and
country, as a means of escape from the heavy, or bitter, or ill-baked
masses of dough which appear at table under the name of
household or home-made bread; and which are well calculated to
create the distaste which they often excite for everything which bears
its name. Without wishing in the slightest degree to disparage the
skill and labour of bread-makers by trade, truth compels us to assert
our conviction of the superior wholesomeness of bread made in our
own homes. When a miller can be depended on to supply flour of
good quality, and the other ingredients used in preparing it are also
fresh and good, and mingled with it in due proportions, and the
kneading, fermentation, and baking, are conducted with care and
intelligence, the result will uniformly be excellent bread. Every cook,
therefore,—and we might almost say every female servant—ought to
be perfectly acquainted with the proper mode of making it; and skill
in preparing a variety of dishes, is poor compensation for ignorance
on this one essential point.[186] Moreover, it presents no more real
difficulty than boiling a dish of potatoes, or making a rice pudding;
and the neglect with which it is treated is therefore the less to be
comprehended or excused.
186. Only those persons who live habitually on good home-made bread, can form
an idea of the extent to which health is affected by their being deprived of it.
We have been appealed to on several occasions for household loaves—
which we have sent to a considerable distance—by friends who complained
of being rendered really ill by the bread which they were compelled to eat in
the sea-side towns and in other places of fashionable resort; and in London
we have heard incessant complaints both from foreigners and habitual
residents, of the impossibility of obtaining really wholesome bread.