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Lotti Potholder
Lotti Potholder
Join my Facebook group „Mosaik Häkel Club“ for help and inspiration.
Make sure to read the instructions completely before you start your project!
If you’re new to mosaic crochet, check out YouTube for tutorials and make a sample
piece before you start.
This potholder is a good project to get to know mosaic crochet in the round and
perfect for leftover yarn. It is made rather quickly and makes a wonderful little gift.
My potholder measures about 20cm in diameter. If you want it bigger you can choose
a 6 or 8 strand cotton yarn.
Yarn recommendation:
Always use contrasting colors for mosaic, so that the pattern will come out clearly.
Color A – rust
Color B - creme
1
General instructions:
• You only work with the right side facing you, you never turn your work.
• You only use one color per round, you don’t cut the yarn but carry it on the back
of your work.
backside
• All single crochets are worked into the back loop only.
• All double crochets are worked into the front loop two rounds below.
• The number of overall stitches per round is indicated in brackets.
• Increases are made:
o by working two stitches into 1 stitch of the previous row (eg 2sc into 1st)
o or by using the previous stitch of the previous round (eg dcp)
• The first stitch of each round is worked into the slip stitch, so that the join always
stays at the same position.
Abbreviations: st = stitch
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
dc = double crochet
hdc = half double crochet
fpdc = front post double crochet
scp = single crochet into previous stitch
dcp = double crochet into previous stitch
round 0 (A): 8 hdc into magic ring, close with sl st into back loop of 1. st,
tighten the ring (8st)
From now on you repeat the indicated ()* part 8 times in each round.
2
round 2 (A): ch, (2sc into 1st, 1dc)*, sl st (24st)
round 4 (A): sl st, ch, (2sc into 1st, 1sc, 1fpdc, 1sc)*, (40st)
round 5 (B): sl st, ch, (1sc, 2sc into 1st, 1dc, 1sc, 1dc)*, (48st)
round 6 (A): sl st, ch, (4sc, 1fpdc, 2sc into 1st)*, (56st)
round 7 (B): sl st, ch, (1sc, 2sc into 1st, 1sc, 1fpdc, 1sc, 1fpdc, 1sc)*, (64st)
round 8 (A): sl st, ch, (1dc, 2dc into 1st, 1dc, 1sc, 1fpdc, 1sc, 1dc)*, (64st)
round 9 (B): sl st, ch, (1sc, 2sc into 1st, 2sc, 1fpdc, 1sc, 1fpdc, 1sc)*, (72st)
round 10 (A): sl st, ch, (3dc, 2sc, 2fpdc into 1st, 2sc)*, (72st)
round 11 (B): sl st, ch, (1sc, 2sc into 1st, 1sc, 1dc, 4sc, 1dc)* (80st)
round 12 (A): sl st, ch, (2sc, 1dc, 3scp, 4dc, 1sc)*, (88st)
round 14 (A): sl st, ch, (2sc, 2fpdc into 1 st, 2sc, 2dc, 2sc, 2dc)*, (96st)
round 15 (B): sl st, ch, (1sc, 1dc, 2sc, 1dc, 3sc, 2dc, 2sc)*, (96st)
round 16 (A): sl st, ch, (1dc, 1sc, 2dc into 1st, 1dc, 1sc, 2dc, 4sc, 1dc)*, (104st)
round 18 (A): sl st, ch, (7dc, 2sc, 2sc into 1st, 3sc)*. (112st)
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round 19 (B): sl st, ch, (3sc, 2sc into 1st, 3sc, 2dc, 3sc, 2dc)*, (120st)
round 20 (A): sl st, ch, (1sc, 2dc, 2dc into 1st, 2dc, 4sc, 2sc into 1st, 3sc, (128st)
round 21 (B): sl st, ch, (1dc, 6sc, 2dc, 5sc, 2sc into 1st, 1dc)*, (136st)
round 22 (A): sl st, ch, (2sc, 4dc, 6sc, 2sc into 1st, 4sc)*, (144st)
round 23 (B): sl st, ch, (2dc, 1sc, 2sc into 1st, 2sc, 2dc, 2sc, 1dcp, 1sc, 1dc, 1sc,
1dc, 1sc, 1dc, 2scp)*, (160st)
round 24 (A): sl st, ch, (4sc, 2dcp, 4scp, 2dc, 1sc, 1dc, 1sc, 1dc, 1sc, 1dc, 1sc,
2dc)*, (168st)
It is normal if the potholder doesn’t lie absolutely flat, since the increases weren’t
made regularly in each round.
I recommend to block and/or carefully steam the potholder to get a perfect flat, round
shape
The pictures on the following pages show the result after each round.
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0 1 2
4 5
3
6 7 8
5
9 10 11
12 13 14
15 16 17
6
18 19 20
21 22 23
24
7
FINISHED!!!
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