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Contents

Overview ……………………………………………………………………………………. 3

1500s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 3

1510s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 4

1520s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 4

1530s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 8

1540s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 12

1550s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 13

1560s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 15

1570s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 16

1580s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 17

1590s ……………………………………………………………………………………. 17

Conclusion ……………………………………………………………………………………. 18

References ……………………………………………………………………………………. 19

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 Overview Of The Century

The 16th century was a period of significant human development due to its taking place at the
height of the Renaissance. The Protestant Reformation, the establishment of European colonies
in the Americas, Africa, and Asia, as well as important advancements in physics and astronomy,
defined this historical period.

In addition to these reforms in philosophy, religion, geography and science, the Renaissance, a
period of artistic and cultural growth, produced masterpieces in art, literature, and music.

The 1500s also saw significant cultural and creative innovation in dress styles. Simpler, more
modest forms, such as the "Spanish farthingale," challenged the authority of the Catholic Church
due to its Protestant method of accentuating natural features. The discovery and colonisation of
the new world brought unique textiles and colours, which allowed for the creation of vibrantly
coloured clothing, richly embroidered linens, and intricate lacework.

1500s

Fashion in the 1500s was marked by sumptuary laws, dictating attire based on social status.

Clothing was lavish, adorned with jewels, fur, and lace. Women wore corsets and farthingales for

a defined waist and wide silhouette. Elaborate headwear, vibrant fabrics like silk and velvet, and

intricate ruffs were prominent. Footwear featured heels and embellishments. Regional variations

added diversity, with Spanish styles influenced by Moorish designs and Italian fashion known for

opulent fabrics and embroidery.

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 1510s

Fashion during the 1510s retained the opulent essence of the Renaissance era. Luxurious fabrics
like silk and velvet were favored, often adorned with intricate details such as gold embroidery
and jewels. Both men and women sported structured outfits that accentuated the waistline.
Elaborate headwear and large, finely pleated ruffs were popular accessories. Regional variations
persisted, with Spanish styles influenced by Moorish aesthetics and Italian fashion renowned for
its lavish fabrics and detailed embroidery. Footwear featured decorative elements like buckles
and jewels, with heels denoting social standing.

1520s

In Europe, the Protestant Revolution and the rise in popularity of international trade marked a
new era in European economics. The desire to boast about one’s country was higher than ever:
The Sicilian nobility wanted to show the English aristocracy that their prices weren’t rising and
even the common man could have afforded silk garments. The best way to do this was in fashion.
Men and women all over Europe began to wear shirts with high-standing collars with frills at the
neck and oversized everything: codpieces, gown sleeves, and elaborate headdresses—an
excellent way not only to show your fellow nobles that you were opulent but also to fight off the
chilly climate that was spreading throughout Europe. Children's fashion in the 1520s mirrored
adult styles, with young aristocrats dressed similarly to their parents. The attire often included
gowns with frilled cuffs, wide turnback sleeves, and simplified versions of French or gabled
hoods. Children's portraits like those of François III and Madeleine of France illustrate these
trends.

Women in Spain wore more modest clothes by deviating from the open necklines of the previous
century. Partlets, which were high-collared chemises, and veils were used to cover the upper
torso. Bodices were constructed to conceal the neckline, often heavily padded to ensure smooth
fabric lines. Meanwhile, men's clothing was characterised by melon-shaped upper stocks and
dark-coloured doublets. They wore darker colour palettes and more structured silhouettes.

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Swords also became a common accessory, reflecting the changing norms in civilian dress. Spain
influenced most European fashion trends.

This Spanish trend spread to Italy, where the women aimed for tighter silhouettes by wearing
low-cut bodices and rich silks and velvets in gowns, with sleeve styles being voluminously
gathered at the top. Male fashion was vibrant with the use of rich velvets and silks.

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The Spanish also had an impact on women's fashion in Germany and Hungary, popularizing
accessories like thick gold chains and zibellino (fur pelts). The use of cutting and ornate
needlework on chemises increased. Furthermore, in Germany, cutting and pinking were common
decorative treatments for doublets and hoses. Matthäus Schwarz's pictures give a thorough look
at these trends, displaying a variety of designs, including doublets with hundreds of slashes and
elaborate needlework.

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French women's fashion incorporated elements of Italian and German styles, with big
oversleeves and broad silhouettes. Marguerite of Navarre's portrait shows these influences, with
intricate slashed and puffed sleeves and visible chemise needlework. François I, King of France,
established fashion trends with costly clothes, popularizing the use of expensive textiles and
ostentatious displays. French menswear featured boat-neck linen shirts with blackwork
embroidery, and baggy overgowns known as chamarras gained popularity.

English dress at this period was very similar to French fashion; however, the typical gabled hood
replaced the French hood. English women wore square-cut necklines and distinctive headwear,
including the gabled hood and lettice hat. Holbein's sketches and pictures of English women
show the intricate design of dresses and hoods.

In short, fashion trends in the 1520s entailed: Spain influencing most European trends, such as
modest clothes and melon-shaped upper stocks. This trend spread to Italy, Germany, Hungary,
and France, where women aimed for tighter silhouettes and rich silks and velvets. French
women's fashion incorporated Italian and German styles, while English dresses featured
square-cut necklines and distinctive headwear.

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 1530s

During the 1530s, the people controlling the fashion world changed. King Henry VIII of England
and François I of France became big players in the community, ousting Spain from its year of
dominance. With these new kings, came new political and economic reforms. England and
France were not necessarily opulent at the time so to compensate, the aristocracy began dressing
extravagantly and having even more lavish parties. The Protestant Revolution still held a hold on
many territories, much to the Catholics’ disapproval. The two parties also danced with each other
in apparel, with the wealthy Catholics idolizing elaborate styles and colours and placing
restrictions on clothes commonly worn by Protestants, which were often modest. A crucial time
in European history, the 1530s saw changes in politics, religion, and culture. The Protestants also
often took influence from the ongoing Renaissance. Lucas Cranach the Elder, was a major artist
in the German Renaissance, even though he was a Protestant. Additionally, in this era, children's
clothing mirrored adult fashion trends, with Edward VI wearing similar styles. Boys wore
cropped hair and high collars, while girls wore elaborate gowns. Aristocratic children wore
scaled-down attire. We can decipher all this information through the garments worn by these
communities.

In Italy, low-cut bodices, broad shoulder lines, decorative aprons, and bulbous upper sleeves
were all in fashion. Chemises had standing collars with ruffled edges that pioneered the “ruff”
trend. Gowns were now made of luxurious fabrics like silk, satin, and velvet, adorned with
embroidery, bows, and slashing. The "balzo," a large bulbous headdress, was often worn with
these outfits. Decorative aprons became popular toward the end of the first half of the century.
However, men's fashion was modelled after their German contemporaries. So their clothing often
included narrow gown sleeves and paned doublets. Beards and moustaches were styled with a
strong horizontal emphasis, reflecting masculine ideals.

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The Queen of France, Elanora of Austria, wore fur sleeves and square-cut gowns in an attempt to
demonstrate her Habsburg dresses and maintain Spanish influence. Anne Boleyn decollated this
trend by wearing French hood headdresses and square-cut bodices despite being the reigning
Queen of England and the second wife of Henry VIII. Jane Seymour, the third wife of King
Henry, brought back the gabled hood, marking a more conservative English fashion. French
men's fashion, on the other hand, included the traditional robe-like gowns and paned doublets.
Holbein's "The Ambassadors" showed the fashion at the French court, with wide sleeves, lynx
fur linings, and dark fabrics. François I wore slashed doublets and richly embroidered fabrics.
This influence was common between France and England.

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In 1530 Germany, women wore narrow gown sleeves with paned rolls or opened seams, low-cut
bodices with heavy gold chains or transparent partlets, and elaborate headdresses with wide
brims and ostrich plumes. Men’s fashion influenced the Italians because of their narrow gown
sleeves, paned doublets, and horizontally cut beards. These trends were especially depicted in
paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder.

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During both the 1520s and 1530s, peasant wear remained constant: people trying to survive the
harsh winter and looking pleasant while doing so. Peasant men wore stockings or tunics, while
women wore long gowns with sleeveless tunics and wimples. Sheepskin cloaks, woollen hats,
and mittens were worn in winter for protection. Leather boots were covered with wooden patens
to keep feet dry. The outer clothes were rarely laundered, but linen underwear was regularly
washed. The smell of wood smoke permeated clothing, acting as a deodorant. Peasant women
spun wool into threads for these garments. Fur was often used to line wealthy garments, and
jewellery was lavish, imported, and used as security against loans. Gem cutting was not invented
until the 15th century, so most stones were not very lustrous. Ring brooches were popular from
the 12th century on. Diamonds became popular in Europe in the fourteenth century. By the
mid-fourteenth century, laws controlled who wore jewellery, and only the wealthy could wear
silver-garnished clothes.

So in conclusion, the 1530s saw significant changes in Europe's politics, religion, and culture,
with the Protestant Revolution and Renaissance influencing the aristocracy. Italy and France
embraced low-cut bodices, while Germany favoured narrow gown sleeves and elaborate
headdresses. Peasant men wore stockings or tunics, while women wore long gowns.

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 1540s

England:

● Women's Wear: Women's fashion in England during the 1540s was characterized by the
Tudor style, which featured elaborate gowns with high necklines and fitted bodices.
Sleeves were often detachable and could be made from luxurious fabrics like velvet or
silk. Skirts were voluminous, supported by farthingales or hoop skirts.
● Men's Wear: Men's fashion in England saw the continuation of the doublet and hose style.
Doublets were close-fitting jackets worn over a shirt, often padded to create a slim
silhouette. Hose were snug-fitting trousers that could be either short or long. Men also
wore jerkins, which were sleeveless jackets, and cloaks for outerwear.

France:

● Women's Wear: French women's fashion in the 1540s was influenced by Renaissance
styles. Gowns featured square necklines and fitted bodices, with voluminous skirts
supported by hoop skirts or farthingales. Sleeves were often puffed or slashed,
showcasing the underlayers of fabric.
● Men's Wear: French men's fashion saw the popularity of the pourpoint, a close-fitting
jacket similar to the English doublet. Pourpoints were often decorated with elaborate
embroidery or embellishments. Breeches were worn with hose, and men also wore capes
or cloaks for outerwear.

Italy:

a) Women's Wear: Italian women's fashion during this period was characterized by the
influence of Renaissance aesthetics. Dresses featured high waistlines and flowing skirts,
often made from luxurious fabrics like silk or brocade. Necklines could be square or
round, and sleeves were typically fitted or puffed.
b) Men's Wear: Italian men's fashion was known for its elegance and sophistication.
Doublets were worn over shirts, often with intricate detailing or embroidery. Breeches

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 were common, paired with hose and stockings. Italian men also favoured capes or
mantles for outerwear.

These are just general trends, and fashion varies within each country depending on factors such
as social status, region, and personal taste. Additionally, the 1540s marked a period of transition
in fashion, with Renaissance styles beginning to emerge and influence clothing design across
Europe.

1550s
In the 1550s, fashion continued to evolve across Europe, reflecting the cultural and social
changes of the time. Here's a summary of the key trends in women's and men's wear during this
decade based on the article:

Women's Wear:

● Silhouette: The silhouette of women's fashion in the 1550s featured a high-waisted style
known as the "Empire silhouette," characterized by a fitted bodice and a long, flowing
skirt that fell loosely from the bust to the floor.
● Necklines: Necklines were often square or round, with an emphasis on showcasing the
décolletage. Necklines could also feature intricate embellishments or lace trimmings.
● Sleeves: Sleeves were typically fitted and could feature various styles such as puffed,
slashed, or adorned with decorative elements like lace or embroidery.
● Fabrics: Luxurious fabrics such as silk, velvet, and brocade were popular choices for
women's gowns. These fabrics were often richly coloured and adorned with elaborate
patterns or motifs.
● Accessories: Accessories played a crucial role in women's fashion during this period.
Headwear, including hats and veils, was commonly worn, and often decorated with
feathers, jewels, or ribbons. Jewellery such as necklaces, earrings, and bracelets added a
touch of elegance to the ensemble.

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Men's Wear:

● Doublet and Hose: The doublet and hose remained a staple of men's fashion in the 1550s.
The doublet was a fitted jacket worn over a shirt, often embellished with decorative
trimmings or embroidery. Hose were snug-fitting trousers that could be either short or
long.
● Cloaks and Mantles: Outerwear such as cloaks and mantles were essential garments for
men, providing both warmth and style. These outer garments could be made from
luxurious fabrics and often featured decorative elements like fur trimmings or
embroidery.
● Headwear: Hats were a common accessory for men during this period. Styles ranged
from simple caps to more elaborate hats adorned with feathers, ribbons, or jewels.
● Fabrics and Colors: Men's fashion in the 1550s favoured rich fabrics such as velvet, satin,
and brocade. Colours tended to be bold and vibrant, reflecting the opulence and grandeur
of the Renaissance era.

Overall, the fashion of the 1550s epitomized the elegance and luxury of the Renaissance period,
with both men's and women's wear featuring sumptuous fabrics, intricate details, and elaborate
accessories.

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 1560s

Here are some key elements of fashion during that time:

Women's fashion featured elaborate gowns with fitted bodices, wide sleeves, and full skirts.
These gowns were often made of luxurious fabrics like velvet, silk, and satin and embellished
with intricate embroidery and lace.
Boned and stiffened bodices that cinched the waist, creating a pointed silhouette.
Fashionable women wore high-waisted gowns with pointed bodices and rounded, puffed sleeves.
The neckline of the gowns was often square or rounded.
Men's fashion included doublets (fitted jackets) with padded shoulders, large sleeves, and
decorative slashes to show the fabric underneath. Breeches (short trousers) were worn with
stockings and flat shoes.
Men also wore ruffs (pleated collars) around their necks, which were a popular accessory during
this period.
Jewellery and accessories were also important, with necklaces, pendants, and girdles featuring
prominently. The arrangement of the partlet or chemise to reveal decorative necklaces was a
popular style.

In summation, the 1560s were simply a continuation of fashion that had emerged in previous
decades.

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 1570s

Women's fashion in the 1570s saw the introduction of the Spanish farthingale, a hoop skirt that
created a conical silhouette. Gowns became even more elaborate, with richer fabrics and more
elaborate decoration.

Sleeves became even larger and more exaggerated, often with intricate detailing like ribbon trim
or lace cuffs.

Men's fashion continued to feature doublets and breeches but with more elaborate decoration and
larger proportions.

Ruffs around the neck remained popular, and men also wore tall hats decorated with feathers and
jewels.

Both men and women wore elaborate jewellery, including necklaces, earrings, rings, and
brooches, often featuring pearls, gemstones, and intricate metalwork.

Overall, fashion in the 1560s and 1570s was characterized by luxurious fabrics, elaborate
decoration, and a desire to display wealth and status through clothing. It was a time of excess and
extravagance, with fashion playing a prominent role in expressing the ideals of the Renaissance
period.

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 1580s

1580s fashion featured a new, slender silhouette for men and a contrasting, ever-expanding
dimensionality for women. These creative styles signalled power, class, and currency. Gifted,
recycled, painted, and reproduced, clothing travelled quickly, as did changes in trends during this
period. Efficient trade networks, pattern books, prints, courtiers, diplomatic marriages, and
ambassadors paved new access and new inspirations. Fine silks were sourced from Italy and
France, woollens from England, and linen from Flanders. Visually, clothing only became more
elaborate, continuing preferences from the 1570s and anticipating the peak of the 1590s.

The woman’s silhouette became increasingly exaggerated and rigid as numerous layers were
worn. This includes the smock and stockings, to be then cloaked in a bodice (or “a pair of
bodies”) and a kirtle (or skirt). In terms of silhouette, men took on slender proportions with select
padding. The first layer would have been a linen shirt, intended to be hidden under a doublet,
then a cloak. During this decade, men’s wardrobes might consist of jerkins, doublets, gowns,
hose, breeches, nightgowns, cloaks, buskins, boots, pumps, bonnets, and flat caps.

1590s

1590s fashion exaggerated previous styles, with women’s farthingale skirts expanding and men’s
hose shrinking further still. Clothing in the 1590s reflected this stage of both finality and growth.
As in the 1580s, pattern books, emblem books, costume books, dress patterns, ambassadors,
portrait prints, and diplomatic gifts circulated between European centres, maintaining stylistic
dialogues and a regular stock of imported goods. Preferences did not shift towards entirely new
trends as much as towards exaggerations of earlier styles. Dresses maintained their complexity,
calling for further ornamentation and elaborate embroidery.

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 Conclusion

In conclusion, we can identify clothing from the 16th century by looking for the following traits:
● Fabric made from rich materials with intricate embellishments

● Ruffs, hose, codpieces and doublets in men’s clothing.

● Embroidery, slashing, and pleating in dresses, with the addition of voluminous skirts and
farthingales.

● Exquisite materials such as silk, velvet, and brocade are used to represent the wearer's
affluence and social status.

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 References

● De Young, J. (n.d.). 1520-1529 | Fashion History Timeline. Fashion History Timeline.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1520-1529/

● Wikipedia contributors. (2023b, November 16). 1520s - Wikipedia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1520s

● What happened in 1520? (1520). OnThisDay.com. https://www.onthisday.com/date/1520

● Wikipedia contributors. (2024g, February 21). 1400–1500 in European fashion.

Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_European_fashion

● Wikipedia contributors. (2024j, April 29). 1500–1550 in European fashion. Wikipedia.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1500%E2%80%931550_in_European_fashion

● De Young, J. (n.d.-b). 1530-1539 | Fashion History Timeline. Fashion History Timeline.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1530-1539/

● The Middle Ages -- more about clothing. (n.d.).

https://www.learner.org/wp-content/interactive/middleages/morcloth.html#:~:text=Peasan
t%20Clothing,to%20keep%20the%20feet%20dry.

● Bochicchio, S. (n.d.). 1580-1589 | Fashion History Timeline. Fashion History Timeline.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1580-1589/

● Bochicchio, S. (n.d.-b). 1590-1599 | Fashion History Timeline. Fashion History Timeline.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1590-1599/

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● De Young, J. (n.d.). 1540-1549 | Fashion History Timeline. Fashion History Timeline.
https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1540-1549/

● De Young, J. (n.d.-b). 1550-1559 | Fashion History Timeline. Fashion History Timeline.

https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1550-1559/

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