The construction of the basic slopers

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NOW \ MAINTENANT
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
32EU to/à 48EU

BACK no seam allowance/DOS sans valeur de couture

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FRON

Basic sloper pants/Gabarit base pantalon

Although it is more interesting to make patterns that will do directly for the desired person,
building the basic templates is not necessarily the first step in learning the pattern.

Indeed, it is better to become familiar with the terms, and notions of pattern making, before
starting the construction of templates from a technic, as they will be presented in this
document. For novice and advance pattern maker, the construction of bodice templates is
the most complex. I therefore recommend starting with the construction of the skirt
templates, then the pants. We can then build the bodice and its sleeve.

The first step in building the basic templates is taking the measurement. You will need a third
person, an elastic band and a tape measure.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 1

 PRISE DES MESURE / TAKING MEASURMENTS

POIGNET / WRIST

ÉPAULE / SHOULDER

POITRINE / BUST

MÉDIANE DOS/ CENTER BACK

TAILLE / WAIST

HANCHE / HIP

TAILLE/HANCHE / WAIST/HIP FOURCHE / CROTCH

TAILLE/FOURCHE / WAIST/CROTCH

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé

TAILLE / WAIST
TAILLE/GENOUX / WAIST/KNEE
LATÉRALE / SIDE SEAM
ENTRE JAMBE / INSEAM

Montant
Crotch Height
GENOUX / KNEE GENOUX / KNEE

MOLLET / CALF

copyright © dianedeziel

CHEVILLE / ANKLE CHEVILLE / ANKLE

2 CM DU PLANCHER / 3/4 IN. FROM FLOOR

2
 TAKE THE MEASURES FOR THE BASIC WOMAN BODICE “SLOPER”
By: Diane Déziel 2019

Before taking measurements, we put on our favorite bra and preferably a panty whose elastics are
not tight. On top, the ideal would be a sleeveless bodysuit, made of knit fabric, so as not to interfere
with the levels to be measured.

Horizontal

-The bust measurement is taken at the strongest area of the chest

- For the measurement of the waist, we place an elastic, and it will be positioned directly at the
smallest level, it is the line of the waist. We leave it in place to take the other measures.
-Hip measurement is taken at the strongest area
-The across back is taken at the center back, horizontally, the 1st ¼ from the neck, arms upwards,
from one arm hollow to the other.
-The apex to apex distance is from one culminating point to another. However, it is good to know
that visually, the greater the distance, the wider the torso will look. We must not improve the
measure.
-Shoulder is measure from the neck to the shoulder bone.

Vertical
The center back measurement is taken from the base of the neck, under the predominant bone, to
the waist.

Additional measures, for "tailored" or custom

-The center front measurement is taken from the base of the neck, in the center of the two
predominant bones, to the waist.
-The measurement of the chest height is taken from the apex to the waist.
-The across front measurement is taken from one side to the other just above, from the beginning of
the roundness of the chest.

Ease
According to my observations, the current fashion, to accustom people to wear the more fitted
clothes and the current materials, often a little extensible make that the ease can be reduced of half
in the chest, the across back part and the hips.

Chest; for woven bases 4 cm all around.

Waist; for woven bases 2 cm all around.
Hip; for woven bases 4 cm all around.
Across back; for woven bases 1 cm from one side to the other.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 3

 TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS BASIC BODICE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

EXAMPLE IN CENTIMETERS AND INCHES (size 10 or 40EU)

MEASURES Full ½ 1/4 1/8 1/10 1/20 1/40 4/20
Calculation ÷2 ÷4 ÷8 ÷10 ÷20 ÷40 ( ÷20) X4

BUST 95 cm 47. 5 11.87 4.75 2.37 19

37.4 in. 18.7 in. 4.67 in. 1.87 in 0.93 in. 7.48 in
Bust ease 4 cm or 1 ½ 2 cm or ¾ in. 1 cm or 3/8
in. in.
WAIST 70 cm 35 17.5 7
27.55 in. 13.77 in 6.88 in 2.75 in
Waist ease 2 cm or ¾ in. 1 cm or 3/8 in. 0.5 cm or
3/16 in.
At the waist, the side seam is move towards the back 0.75 cm or ¼ in.
1/4 waist FRONT 17.5 + 0.75 + 0.5 = 18.75 cm Or 6.88 + ¼ + 3/16 = 7.38 in.
¼ waist BACK 17.5 - 0.75 + 0.5 = 17.25 cm Or 6.88 - ¼ + 3/16 = 6.79 in.
Across back 35 cm 17.5
13.77 in. 6.88 in
Apex to apex 18.5 cm 9.25
7.28 in. 3.64 in.
Shoulder 12 cm 6 cm
4.72 in. 2.36 in.
Center back 42 cm 21 cm
16.53 in. 8.26 in

Your measures Full ½ 1/4 1/8 1/10 1/20 1/40 4/20

BUST
WAIST
1/4 waist FRONT + + =
¼ waist BACK - + =
Across back
Apex to apex
Shoulder
CENTER back

Waist darts; Front 4 cm or 1 1/2 in. and back 3 cm or 1 1/8 in.

The back shoulder dart; 1 cm or 3/8 in.
The ease on the back shoulder is 3 to 5 mm or 1/8 to 3/16 in.
* In the example, the difference between the breast and waist measurement is 24.5 cm or
9.64 in. When the difference is less than 18 cm or 7 in., the size of the waist darts should be
reduced to keep a small angle on the side seams.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 4

 TRACING OF THE BASIC BODICE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 5

 TRACING STEPS OF THE BASIC BODICE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

On a piece of paper, 60 cm X 60 cm or 24 in. X 24 inches.

BACK

1. Trace the center back (ex. 42 cm or 16.53 inches). A & C

2. Divide A to C by 2, and go down 1 cm or 3/8 inch ( ex. 22 cm or 8.66 inches) = B.
Trace a square line to the right of A, back only
Draw square to the right of B & C.
3. From B, measure 1/10 of the waist + (2.5 cm or 1 inch, a constant) = B1.
(ex. 7 + 2.5 = 9.5 cm) or (2.75 + 1 = 3.75 inches)
From B1, trace with the square down (center of the waist dart) = C1.
4. From C, measure (1/4 of the waist back + 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. dart) = C2.
(ex. 17.25 + 3 = 20.25 cm) or (6.79 + 1 1/8 = 8 in.)
5. On each side of C1, measure 1.5 cm or 9/16 in. and join to B1
6. From B, measure ½ across back + 0.25 to 0.05 cm or 1/8 to 3/16 in. = B2
(ex. 17.5 cm + 0.5 cm = 18 cm) or (ex. 6.88 + 3/16 = 7 in.)
Trace with the square upwards A3
7. From A, measure 1/20 chest + 2.5 cm or 1 inch, = A1
(ex. 4.75 cm + 2.5 cm = 7.25 cm) or (ex. 1.87 + 1 = 2.87 in.)
Trace with the square upwards
8. From A1, measure upwards, 1/40 chest + 0.3 cm or 1/8 in. = A1'
(ex. 2.37 cm + 0.3 cm = 2.67 cm) or (ex. 0.93 +1/8 = 1 in.)
9. From A3 measure 1/40 chest -1.5 cm or 5/8 inch down = A3'
(ex. 2.37 cm -1.5 cm = 0.87 cm) or (ex. 0.93 – 0.59 = 0.34 in.)
10. Draw from A1' to A3' and extend the line

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 6

 TRACING STEPS OF THE BASIC BODICE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

BACK CONTINUE

11. From A1', measure (shoulder + dart 1 cm or 3/8 inch + ease 0.3 to 0.5 cm or 1/8 to
3/16 in.) = A3''
(ex. 12 cm + 1 cm + 0.5 = 13.5 cm) or (ex. 4.72 + 3/8 + 3/16 = 5.31 in.)
12. Find the ½ of A1' to A3'’ = A2' (ex. 6.75 cm) or (ex. 2.65 in.)
13. Draw from B1 to A2' and extend
14. From A2', measure 0.5 cm or 3/16 in. on each side, and then 7 cm or 2 ¾ inches
down = A2
15. Draw from A2 to each of the 0.5 cm or 3/16 in. points on the shoulder, and go over
by 0.7 cm or 1/4 in.
16. Join the raised points of 0.7 cm or 1/4 in. to A1' and A3''
17. Find the ½ from A3' to B2, then go down 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. = B2’
Join B2’ to A3''
18. From B2 measure 1/8 bust + 0.25 to 0.5 cm or 1/8 to 3/16 in. = B4
(ex. 11.87 cm + 0.5 cm = 12.37 cm) or (ex. 4.67 + 3/16 = 4.87 in.)
19. Find the ½ from B2 to B4 (ex 6.18 cm) or (ex. 2.43 in.) = B3
20. Draw the back side seam, from B3 to C2

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 7

 TRACING STEPS OF THE BASIC BODICE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

FRONT

1. From B4, measure 4/20 bust + 0.25 to 0.5 cm or 1/8 to 3/16 in. = B6
(ex. 19 cm + 0.5 cm = 19.5 cm) or (ex. 7.48 + 3/16 = 7.67 in.)
2. From B, square down C5 and up. = center front
3. From A1' go up 1 cm or 3/8 inch = A1''
4. Square from the center front, draw a line touching the point A1'' = A7
5. From A7 measure to the left 1/20 chest + 2.25 cm or 15/16 in. = A6,
(ex. 4.75 cm + 2.25 cm = 7 cm) or (ex. 1.87 + 0.88 = 2 ¾ in.)
then draw at right angle towards bottom
6. From A7 measure down 1/20 chest + 2.75 cm or 1 1/16 in. = A8,
(ex. 4.75 cm + 2.75 cm = 7.5 cm) or (ex. 1.87 + 1.08 = 2.95 in.)
then draw squaring to the left = A8’
7. From the intersection A8' draw a line to join A7
8. Measure A8' to A7, divide by 3, then mark the first 1/3 from A8'
9. From B4 draw a straight line up = A4
10. From A4 measure 1/20 of chest + 2 cm or ¾ in. to the right = A5
(ex. 4.75 cm + 2 cm = 6.75 cm) or (ex. 1.87 + 3/4 = 2.65 in.)
11. From A4 measure 1/20 of chest down = A4' (ex. 4.75 cm) or (ex. 1.87 in.)
12. Draw from A5 to A4' and extend to the left
13. From A5 place the shoulder measurement (ex.12 cm) or (ex.4 ¾ inches) = A4'',
then find the middle (ex. 6 cm) or (ex. 2 3/8 inches)
14. Measure from A4 to B4 and divide by 3
Mark the first 1/3 from B4 upwards = B4’
15. Join B4’ to A4''
16. From B6 indicate ½ apex to apex measurement = B5 (ex. 9.25 cm) or (ex. 3.64 in.)
17. From B5 draw square down to the waist = C4
18. From B5 measure 1 cm or 3/8 in. down = B5'
19. Trace up from B5' to A6, A5, and to the ½ shoulder
20. From C4, measure 2 cm or ¾ inch on each side, then join these 2 points to B5'
21. From C5, measure to the left, ¼ waist front + 4 cm or 1 ½ inch dart = C3
(ex. 17.5 cm + 4 cm = 22.75 cm) or (ex. 6.88 + 1 1/2 = 8.95 in.)
22. Join C3 to B3, front side seam

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 8

 TRACING STEPS OF THE BASIC BODICE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

TRACING CURVES

1. Back neckline; a 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch line is drawn at 45 ° from point A1

We draw a curve from A1' passing through the 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch, up to about 3 cm or 1
1/8 inch from point A
2. Back armhole; we find the center of B2’ to A3''
We indicate 0.3 cm or 1/8 in. inwards, then we curve by joining the 3 points.
3. At 45 ° from point B2, trace a line of 2.8 cm or 1 1/8 inch, then curved by joining the 3
points, from B2’ to 2.8 cm or 1 1/8 inch to B3.
4. Front neckline; we trace from A6, passing through the 1/3, up to 0.5 cm or 3/16 in.
from point A8
5. Front armhole; we find the center from B4’ to A4''
We indicate 0.3 cm or 1/8 in. towards the interior, then we curve by joining the 3
points.
6. A line of 2.5 cm or 1 inch is drawn at 45 ° from point B4, then curved, joining the 3
points, B4’ to 2.5 cm or 1 in. to B3.

ARMHOLE NOTCHES

1. Front; the notch is placed in the center of 1/3 and ¼ of A4’ and B4, from B4
2. Back; the height of the front notch is transferred, and a first notch is placed 0.5 cm or 3/16
inch higher and the second is placed 0.5 cm or 3/16 inch lower.

MOVING THE FRONT SHOULDER DART

1. We cut these 2 lines A5 to B5' & the ½ shoulder to B5'

2. Than pivot the triangle to the right, superimposing A5 to A6

JUGS OF THE DARTS

1. For all darts; the center front or back side of the darts is folded on its entire length
2. The folded side is superimposed on the other side of the dart.
3. We trace the the jug.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 9

 TAKE THE MEASURES FOR THE BASIC WOMAN SLEEVE “SLOPER”
By: Diane Déziel 2019

First of all, you have to know that a sleeve belongs to an armhole and it is not transferable.

Before taking measurements, we put on our favorite bra. On top, the ideal would be a
camisole, made of knit fabric, so as not to interfere with the levels to be measured.

Vertical

-The length of the sleeve is taken from the end of the shoulder, through the elbow, the arm
slightly bent, until the beginning of the hand.
-The height of the armhole is taken by joining the 2 falls of shoulder, then one finds the
center, then one measures until the level of chest.

Horizontal

- The measurement of the wrist is taken in the part of the top of the hand.
- Armhole width is 1/8 of the bust + 0.25 to 0.5 cm or 1/8 to 3/16 in. of ease.
- The bust measurement is taken at the strongest level of the chest

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 10

 TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS FOR THE BASIC WOMAN SLEEVE “SLOPER”
By: Diane Déziel 2019

My example cm & inches FULL 3/8 1/8 1/2

Bust 95 cm 35.62 cm 11.87
37.4 in. 14 in. 4.67 in.
Armhole height 19.5 cm
7.67 in.
Sleeve length 58 cm 29 cm
22.83 in. 11.41 in.
Wrist 22 cm 11 cm
8.66 in. 4.33
Armhole width 1/8 bust + 0.5 cm 6.18 cm
ex. 11.87 + 0.5 = 12.37
or 1/8 bust + 3/16 in. 2.43 in.
ex. 11.87 + 3/16 = 4.87 in.
Sleeve width 3/8 bust -1 cm 17.31 cm
Bicep line ex. 35.62 -1 = 34.62 cm
3/8 bust -3/8 in. 6.81 in.
ex. 14 in. - 3/8 = 13 5/8 in.
Your measures FULL 3/8 1/8 1/2
Bust
Armhole height
Sleeve length
Wrist
Armhole width
Sleeve width
Bicep line
In the technic presented, we subtract 3.5 cm or 1.37 inch from the armhole height for the
drawing of the sleeve. This 3.5 cm or 1.37 inch is a variable constant, that is to say it can vary
slightly (+ or – 0.5 cm or 3 1/6 inch), depending on the desired result. What is this result?
Movement/ comfort Ease
- 4 cm or 1 ½ inch Plus Minus
-3 cm or 1 1/8 inch Minus Plus
The added measures for the ½ armhole width and subtracted measure for the length of the
biceps line are also "slightly variable" constants that will change the movement and ease of
the sleeve.
Added or subtract measure Movement/ comfort Ease
½ Armhole width 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. = + comfort Plus
+2.5 cm or 1 in. 2 cm or 3/4 in. = - comfort Minus
Biceps line measurement -.5 cm or 3/16 in.= + comfort Plus
- 1 cm or 3/8 in. - 1.5 cm or 0.59 in.= - comfort Minus

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 11

 TRACING OF THE BASIC SLEEVE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 12

 TRACING STEPS OF THE BASIC SLEEVE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

On a piece of paper 65 cm X 45 cm or 26 inches X 18 inches.

1. Trace the center of the sleeve, grain line, the length of the sleeve A & D
(ex. 58 cm) or (22 7/8 inches)
2. Divide by 2, and go down 4 cm or 1 ½ inch from A = C.
(ex. 29 cm + 4 cm = 33 cm) or (ex. 11.41 +1 ½ = 13 in.)
3. From A, measure the armhole height – 3.5 cm or 1.37 inch = B
(ex. 19.5 – 3.5 = 16 cm) or (ex. 7.67 – 1.37 = 6.3 in.)
4. Draw square lines on both sides of A, B, C & D.
5. From B measure on each side ½ sleeve width = B1 & B2.
(ex. 17.31 cm) or (ex. 6.81 in.)
6. From D measure ½ wrist measurement on each side = D1 & D2
(ex. 11 cm) or (ex. 4.33 in.)
7. From B measure on each side ½ of the armhole width + 2.5 cm or 1 inch = B1' & B2'
(ex. 6.18 cm + 2.5 cm = 8.68 cm) or (ex. 2.43 + 1 = 3.43 in.)
8. Draw squared up = A1 & A2
9. Find the ½ from A to A1 & from A to A2, = A1' & A2'
10. Find the 1/2 from A to A1' and from A to A2' = A1'' & A2''
11. Find the ½ from A2 to B2' and from A1 to B1' = E & F
12. Determine the sides, left = back, right = front
13. On the back side, from E, measure 1 cm or 3/8 inch upwards = E1
14. Trace from A1' to E1 and extend to the biceps line
15. Draw from A2' to F
16. From A2', towards F, place the measurement from A to A2'.
Join this point at A2''
17. From A1', towards E1, place the measurement from A to A1''.
Join this point at A1''
18. Draw from B1 to D1 and from B2 to D2 = C1 & C2

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 13

 TRACING STEPS OF THE BASIC SLEEVE (SLOPER) WOMAN
By: Diane Déziel 2019

TRACING CURVES

1. We begin by drawing a 45 ° angle from points B1' & B2'

2. We measure about 4 cm or 1 1/2 inch on the front side and 4.5 cm or 1 5/8 inch on the
back side
3. The right angle is respected at a distance of about 0.5 cm or 3/16 inch from each side of
point A
4. We trace from A to B2 & A to B1 according to the diagram

PLACING ARMHOLE NOTCHES

As can be seen by measuring the head of the sleeve, from one underarm point to another,
the sleeve is larger than the armhole. This excess is necessary and it is called ease. The ease
must be placed in the upper part of the sleeve so as to create a 3D and follow the shape of
the body.

The armhole notches are assembly notches, which also have another function, that of
ensuring that the ease will not be distributed equally around the armhole, but where it is
desired, in the top part.

1. Take measurements of the position of the notches from the underarm on the back and
front bodices.
2. It is carried over the sleeve from the underarms.
3. For the notch at the head of the sleeve (shoulder), measure the bodice back armhole
minus the measurement of the bodice front armhole, then place the notch on the sleeve at ½
of the difference from A towards the front.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 14

 TAKE MEASURES FOR THE SKIRT SLOPER (1 DART)
By: Diane Déziel 2019

Horizontal

- For the measurement of the waist, we place an elastic, and it will be positioned directly at the
smallest level, it is the line of the waist. We leave it in place to take the other measures.
- The measurement of the hips is taken at the strongest level of the pelvis.

PRISE DES MESURE / TAKING MEASURMENTS

Vertical

- The height of the hips is taken at the center back, waist to hips.
/ WRIST
- The skirt length is taken at the center back, from the waist down to the desired length.
ÉPAULE / SHOULDER
MÉDIANE DOS/ CENTER BACK

POITRINE / BUST

TAILLE / WAIST
TAILLE/HANCHE / WAIST/HIP
TAILLE/FOURCHE / WAIST/CROTCH
TAILLE/GENOUX / WAIST/KNEE

HANCHE / HIP

FOURCHE / CROTCH
ENTRE JAMBE / INSEAM
LATÉRALE / SIDE SEAM

GENOUX / KNEE GENOUX / KNEE

MOLLET / CALF

copyright © dianedeziel

CHEVILLE / ANKLE CHEVILLE / ANKLE

2 CM DU PLANCHER / 3/4 IN. FROM FLOOR

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 15

 TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS SKIRT SLOPER (1 DART)
By: Diane Déziel 2019

Example FULL ½ 1/4 1/12

cm & inches
Calculation ÷2 ÷4
WAIST 70 cm 35 17.5
27.55 in. 13.77 in. 6.88 in.
WAIST ease 2 cm or ¾ in. 1 cm or 3/8 in 0.5 cm or 3/16 in.
BACK WAIST 17.5 - 0.75 + 0.5 = 17.25
6.88 – ¼ + 3/16 = 6.79 in.
FRONT WAIST 17.5 +0.75 + 0.5 = 18.75
6.88 + ¼ + 3/16 = 7.38 in.
HIP 95 cm 47.5 cm 23.75 cm 7.9 cm
37.4 in. 18.7 in. 9.35 in. 3.11 in.
Hip height 21 cm or 8.26 in.
HIP ease 4 cm or 1 ½ in. 2 or ¾ in. 1 or 3/8 in.
BACK HIP 23.75 - 0.5 + 1 cm = 24.25
9.35 – 3/16 + 3/8 = 9.54 in.
FRONT HIP 23.75 + 0.5 + 1 cm = 25.25
9.35 + 3/16 + 3/8 = 9.94 in.

Your measure FULL ½ 1/4 1/12

WAIST
BACK WAIST - + =
FRONT WAIST + + =
HIP
Hip height
BACK HIP - + =
FRONT HIP + + =

DARTS DEPTH LENGTH

BACK 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. 2/3 to ¾ of 21 cm or 8 ¼ in. ¾ = 15.75 or 6.2 in.
FRONT 2 cm or ¾ in. ½ of 21 cm or 8 ¼ in. ½ = 10.5 cm or 4.13 in.

SIDE SEAM BALANCE Calculation

(1/2 hip + ease) – (1/2 waist + ease) – dart value /2
(47.5 + 2 = 49.5 cm) – (35 + 1 = 36 cm) – (2 + 3 = 5 cm) /2
49 – 35.5 = 13.5 cm – 5 = 8.5 cm /2 = 4.25 cm each side
(18.7 + 3/4 = 19.48 in.) – (13.77 + 3/8 = 14.17 in.) – (3/4 + 1 1/8 = 1 7/8 in.) /2

Or 19.48 – 14.17 = 5.31 – 1 7/8 = 3.34 /2 = 1.67 in. each side

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 16

 TRACING OF THE SKIRT SLOPER (1 DART)
By: Diane Déziel 2019

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 17

 TRACING STEPS OF THE SKIRT SLOPER (1 DART)
By: Diane Déziel 2019

On a piece of paper; 80 cm X 60 cm or 32 in. X 24 in.

BACK

1. Trace the center back = A to C

Length of (ex. 70 cm) or (ex. 27 ½ in.)
2. From A, measure the hip level down = B
(ex. 21 cm) or (ex. 8 ¼ in.)
3. From A, draw square to the right. Back waist only.
4. From B and C draw square to the right. Hip and hem, for back and front
5. From B, place the back hip measurement = B1
(ex. 24.25 cm) or (ex. 9.54 in.)
6. From B1 draw a square line, parallel to the center back, exceeding line A by 1.5 cm or
0.59 in. upwards = A1 and C1
7. From A1, draw a line square on both sides, the measurement of the side seam
balance = A1' & A1''
(ex. 4.25 cm) or (ex. 1.67 in.)
8. From A, measure the princess line (1/12 hip) = A4
(ex. 7.9 cm) or (ex. 3.11 in.)
9. From A4, measure a dart 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. = A5
Find the center = A2
10. From A2 trace square towards bottom = B2
11. Divide A to A4 in 2 = A3
12. Trace from A3 to A1’
13. From B measure up ¼ of 21 = 5.25 cm or 2 in.
Trace square towards the right = P & P1
14. Draw from P to A4 and A5

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 18

 TRACING STEPS OF THE SKIRT SLOPER (1 DART)
By: Diane Déziel 2019

FRONT

1. From B1, place the front hip measurement = B3.

(Ex. 25.25 cm) or (ex. 9.94 in.)
Then place this same measurement from C1 = C2
2. Draw the center in front from C2 through B2 and extend for a total length of 70.8 cm
or 27.87 in. = A6
3. From A6 draw square towards the back, front waist only
4. From A6 measure the princess line , 1/12 hip = A9
(ex. 7.9 cm) or (ex. 3.11 in.)
5. From A9 measure the dart 2 cm or 3/4 in. = A10
Divide by 2 = A7
6. From A7, trace square down = B4
7. Divide A6 to A9 in 2 = A8
8. Trace from A8 to A1’’
9. From B4, measure ½ of 21 cm or 8.26 in. = P2
(ex. 10.5 cm) or (ex. 4.13 in.)
10. Trace from P2 to A9 & P2 to A10

TRACE WAIST LINES

1. Fold the first side of the darts (closer to center front), then placing it on the lateral side.
2. Draw a very smooth curved line from A8 to A1''
3. Fold the first side of the darts (closer to center back), then placing it on the lateral side.
4. A very smooth curved line is drawn from A3 to A1'

TRACER LES LATÉRALES

1. Trace the back side seam, a curve line from P1 à A1’

2. Trace the front side seam, a curve line from P1 à A1’’
For that curve, we could also fold the plan and report the curve of the back to the front using
the tracing wheel.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 19

 TAKE MEASURES FOR THE PANTS SLOPER
By: Diane Déziel 2019

HORIZONTAL

- For the measurement of the waist, we place an elastic, and it will be positioned directly at
the smallest level, it is the line of the waist. We leave it in place to take thePRISE
other measures.
DES MESURE / TAKING MEASURMENTS

-Hip measurement is taken at the highest level of the pelvis

-The width at the bottom is a matter of taste, it is easily changed after a fitting, we add or
remove the same measurement, on each side of each piece, inseam and the side seam.
POIGNET / WRIST
VERTICAL

-The measurement of the height of the crotch is taken seated, from the waist to the chair, on
the side seam.
-The measurement of the side seam length is taken barefoot on the side seam, from the
waist, until about 2 cm or ¾ in. from the floor

ENTRE JAMBE / INSEAM

TAILLE / WAIST
Crotch Height
Montant

GENOUX / KNEE

MOLLET / CALF

copyright © dianede

CHEVILLE / ANKLE

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 20

 TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS FOR THE PANTS BLOCK
By: Diane Déziel 2019

Example Total ½ ¼ 1/8 1/12 1/20

HIP 95 cm 47.5 cm 23.75 cm 11.87 cm 7.9 cm 4.7 cm
37.4 in. 18.7 in. 9.53 in. 4.67 in. 3.11 in. 1.85 in.
Crotch/curve (ex. 13.25 / 4 + 1 = 4.3 cm) or (ex. 5.21 / 4 + 3/8 = 1.69 in.)
WAIST 70 cm 35 cm 17.5 cm 3.5 cm
27.55 in. 13.77 in. 6.88 in. 1.37 in.
Front Calculation 17.5 + 0.75 + 0.5 = 18 cm
6.88 + 1/4 + 3/16 = 7 in.
Back Calculation 17.5 - 0.75 + 0.5 = 16.5 cm
6.88 - 1/4 + 3/16 = 6 1/2 in.
Crotch height 25.5 cm Or 10 inches
Side seam length 105 cm Or 41.33 inches
Bottom width Front 20 cm Or Front 7.87 in.
Back 24 cm Back 9.44 in.

Your measure Total ½ ¼ 1/8 1/12 1/20

HIP
Crotch/curve ( /4+1= cm) or ( / 4 + 3/8 = in.)
WAIST
Front Calculation + 0.75 + 0.5 = cm or + 1/4 + 3/16 = in.
Back Calculation - 0.75 + 0.5 = cm or - 1/4 + 3/16 = in.
Crotch height
Side seam length
Bottom width Front cm Or Front in.
Back cm Back in.

DART DEPTH LENGTH

1st, 3 cm or 1 1/8 1st, 14cm or 5.51 in.
Back
2nd, 2cm or 3/4 2nd, 9cm or 3.54 in.
Front 2 cm or ¾ in. 10 cm or 4 in.

Princess line (Dart) 1/12 hip = 7.9 cm or 3.11 in.

• For the construction of the back, if the difference between the measurement of (½
hips, minus ½ waist) is greater than 10 cm or 4 in., it is necessary to lower the point of
the back crotch by 0.1cm or 1/16 in. for each 1 cm or 3/8 in. over.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 21

 TRACING THE PANTS BLOCK
Par :Diane Déziel 2019

A6
A11 A9
A10 A8
3 cm
A13 A12
A7 1/2
A5 A1
A2 A3 A A4 A1
A2 A3 A A4

P2

P P

P1
1/2 1/2
1/2

B4 B4

1/2 1/2

B3 B B2 B1 B6 B3 B B2 B1 B5 2.5 cm B7
1/2
1/4 +1 cm

1/3

C2 C C1 C3 C2 C C1 C4

1/2 +6 cm

copyright © dianedeziel

D2 D D1 D3 D2 D D1 D4

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 22

 TRACING STEPS FOR THE PANTS BLOCK
By: Diane Déziel 2019

On a piece of paper 125 cm X 60 cm or 49 in. X 24 in.

THE BASE

1. Trace the grain line in the center of the paper = A & D

(ex. total length 105 cm) or (ex. 41.33 in.)
2. From A, indicate the crotch level + 0.5 cm or 3/16 in. ease = B
(ex. 25.5 cm + 0.5 = 26 cm) or (ex. 10 in. + 3/16 = 10 3/16 in.)
3. From D, indicate the knee level at 1/2 distance crotch/bottom + 6cm or 2.36 in. = D
(ex. 79 cm /2 = 39.5 + 6 cm = 45.5 cm) or (ex. 31.1 in. / 2 = 15.55 + 2.36 = 17.91 in.)
4. Draw 4 lines, square from the grain line, waist A, crotch B, knee C and bottom D.

THE FRONT

1. On each side of B, measure 1/8 hip + 1.5 cm or 0.59 in. ease. = B1 & B3
(ex. 11.75 + 1.5 = 13.25 cm) or (ex. 4.62 + 0.59 = 5.21 in.)
2. On the croth side, divide B to B1 into 4 and add 1cm or 3/8 = B2
(ex.13.25 / 4 = 3.3 + 1 = 4.3 cm) or (ex. 5.21 / 4 = 1.29 + 3/8 = 1.69 in.)
Then place this measure from B1, towards B = B2
3. From B2, draw a square line towards the waist = A1
4. Repeat this measurement B1 to B2, then add 1 cm or 3/8 in
(ex. 4.3 + 1 = 5.3 cm) or (ex. 1.69 + 3/8 = 2 in.)
Then place this measurement from B1 towards the waist = B4
5. Divide these 2 segments B1 to B2 & B1 to B4 into 2
(ex. 4.3 cm & 5.3 cm) or (ex. 1.69 in & 2 in.)
6. Draw the guide lines of the front crotch, in cross, B4 to ½ & ½ to B1
7. From A1, measure 1/4 waist in front + 2 cm or ¾ in. dart = A2
(ex. 18.75 + 2 cm = 20.75 cm) or (ex. 7.38 + 3/4 = 8.16 in.)
8. From A, indicate 1 cm or 3/8 in. on each side = A3 & A4
9. From A measure 10 cm or 4 in. down, on the grain line = P
10. Connect P to A3 & A4
11. From D, measure (ex. 10 cm or 4 in.) on each side of the grain line = D1 & D2
12. Trace the inseam D1 to B1 = C1
13. At the side, connect D2 to B3 = C2
Extend to ½ distance between B3 to A2
14. Finally, connect ½ to A2

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 23

 TRACING STEPS FOR THE PANTS BLOCK
By: Diane Déziel 2019

THE BACK

1. From A measure towards the right, 1/20 of waist + 2 cm or ¾ in. = A5

(ex. 3.5 + 2 = 5.5 cm) or (ex. 1.37 + ¾ = 2.16 in.)
2. Trace from B4, through the new A5 point and extend towards the top.
3. From A5, measure 1/20 of waist upwards = A6
(ex. 3.5 cm) or ( ex. 1.37 in.)
4. From A6, measure 1/4 waist back + the 2 darts
(ex. 17.25 + 3 cm + 2 cm = 22.25 cm) or (ex. 6.79 + 1 1/8 + ¾ = 8 ¾ in.)
Rotate the measurement until it touches the waist line = A7
5. From A6, position the 1st dart at 1/12 hip = A8
(ex. 7.9 cm) or (ex. 3.11 in.)
6. From A8, indicate the 1st dart, 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. = A9. Then find the center A10
7. From the center A10, trace at square down 14 cm or 5 ½ in. = P1
8. Connect this pivot P1 to both sides of the dart A8 & A9
9. Find the center of the remaining segment A9 to A7 = A11
10. Trace square down from A11, 9 cm or 3.45 in. = P2
11. Indicate 1 cm or 3/8 in. on each side of A11 = A12 & A13
12. Connect the pivot P2 to both sides of the dart A12 & A13
13. From B3 & B1 add 1/20 of hip on each side of the front leg points = B5 & B6
(ex. 4.7 cm) or (ex. 1.85 in.)
14. From B5, add 2.5 cm or 1 in. extra = B7 and trace about 4 cm or 1 ½ in. square
down.
15. From C1 and C2, add 2.5 cm or 1 in. on each side of the front leg points = C3 & C4
16. From D1 and D2, add 2 cm or ¾ in. on each side of the front leg points = D3 & D4
17. Draw the side seam, from D3 to C3, then from C3 to B6, extending to ½ way
between B6 & A7. Finally, draw ½ to A7.
18. Trace the inseam, D4 & C4
19. Draw a line from C4 to B5, than, divide this segment into 3 and connect the 1/3
from the bottom to the crotch point B7
20. Measure segment C1 to B1 from the front and report the measure - 0.5 cm or 3/16
in. on the back, from C4 to the square line down from B7.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 24

 TRACING STEPS FOR THE PANTS BLOCK
By: Diane Déziel 2019

CORRECTION OF LINES FOR THE FRONT AND THE BACK

1. From A7 & A2 extend the side seam up 0.5 cm or 3/16 inch,

2. Trace the curve of the front crotch, using the 2 guide lines, then extend for the back
one until B7
3. The front pattern, close the dart and curve the waist slightly, 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. from
point A1 to point A2 raised.
4. The back pattern, close the 2 darts and curve the waist slightly, 3 cm or 1 1/8 in. from
point A6 to point A7 raised.
5. Slightly bend the top part of both side seam. In front, from B3 to A2 and back, from
B6 to A7, softening the tip (1/2)
6. Retrace with the tracing wheel, the back and front individually, on an other paper.
Indicate all levels, darts and the reference point B4.

PLACE THE NOTCHES

1. Place notches on each side of the back and front at the knee level, C1, C2, C3 & C4.
2. Place notches on the side of the back and front at the crotch level, B3 & B6.
3. Place a notch at the front croth at 18 cm or 7 1/8 inch (zipper length) down from A1
4. Place a notch at the back crotch at point B4 and a second 1 cm or 3/8 inch higher.

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé 25

 Body mesurments in CENTIMETER / Mesure du corps en CENTIMÈTRE
2 4 6 8 BASE 10 12 14 16
STANDARD
/32EU /34EU /36EU /38EU /40EU /42EU /44EU /46EU
Poitrine
86.2 88.2 90.2 92.6 95 99 103 107.8
/Bust
Taille
61.2 63.2 65.2 67.6 70 74 78 82.8
/Waist
Hanche
86.2 88.2 90.2 92.6 95 99 103 107.8
/Hip
BASE
P0 P2 P4 P6 +S 14 +S 16 +S 18 +S 22 +S 24 +S 22 +S 24
+S
/30EU /32EU /34EU /36EU /44EU /46EU /48EU /52EU /54EU /56EU /58EU
20/50EU
Poitrine
81.2 83.2 85.2 87.2 108.4 112.4 117.2 122 128 134 140 146
/Bust
Taille
59.2 61.2 63.2 65.2 88.4 92.4 97.2 102 108 114 120 126
/Waist
Hanche
81.2 83.2 85.2 87.2 113.4 117.4 122.2 127 133 139 145 151
/Hip
P = junior/petite, smaller bust +S = plus size, larger bust & hip

Copyright© 2019 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé

P = junior/petite, petite poitrine +S = taille plus, poitrine & hanche + grande
Body mesurments in INCH / Mesure du corps en POUCE
2 4 6 8 BASE 10 12 14 16
STANDARD
/32EU /34EU /36EU /38EU /40EU /42EU /44EU /46EU
Poitrine
33,85 34,64 35,43 36,22 37,40 38,97 40,55 42,12
/Bust
Taille
24,01 24,80 25,59 26,37 27,55 29,13 30,70 32,28
/Waist
Hanche
33,85 34,64 35,43 36,22 37,40 38,97 40,55 42,12
/Hip
BASE
P0 P2 P4 P6 +S 14 +S 16 +S 18 +S 22 +S 24 +S 22 +S 24
+S
/30EU /32EU /34EU /36EU /44EU /46EU /48EU /52EU /54EU /56EU /58EU
20/50EU
Poitrine
31,88 32,67 33,46 34,33 42,51 44,09 46,06 48,03 50,39 52,75 55,11 57,48
/Bust
Taille
23,22 24,01 24,80 25,59 34,64 36,22 38,18 40,15 42,51 44,88 47,24 49,6
/Waist
Hanche
31,88 32,67 33,46 34,33 44,48 46,06 48,03 50 52,36 54,72 57,08 59,44
/Hip

26
Copyright© 2018 Diane Déziel Tous droits réservé