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Urban Geopolitics
This series offers a forum for original and innovative research that
engages with key debates and concepts in the field. Titles within the
series range from empirical investigations to theoretical
engagements, offering international perspectives and
multidisciplinary dialogues across the social sciences and humanities,
from urban studies, planning, geography, geohumanities, sociology,
politics, the arts, cultural studies, philosophy and literature.
For a full list of titles in this series, please visit
www.routledge.com/series/RSUC
The Urban Political Economy and Ecology of Automobility
Driving Cities, Driving Inequality, Driving Politics
Edited by Alan Walks
Cities and Inequalities in a Global and Neoliberal World
Edited by Faranak Miraftab, David Wilson and Ken E. Salo
Beyond the Networked City
Infrastructure Reconfigurations and Urban Change in the North and
South
Edited by Olivier Coutard and Jonathan Rutherford
Technologies for Sustainable Urban Design and
Bioregionalist Regeneration
Dora Francese
Markets, Places, Cities
Kirsten Seale
Shrinking Cities
Understanding Urban Decline in the United States
Russell C. Weaver, Sharmistha Bagchi-Sen, Jason C. Knight and Amy
E. Frazier
Mega-Urbanization in the Global South
Fast Cities and New Urban Utopias of the Postcolonial State
Edited by Ayona Datta and Abdul Shaban
Green Belts
Past; Present; Future?
John Sturzaker and Ian Mell
Spiritualizing the City
Agency and Resilience of the Urban and Urbanesque Habitat
Edited by Victoria Hegner and Peter Jan Margry
The Latino City
Urban Planning, Politics, and the Grassroots
Erualdo R. Gonzalez
Rebel Streets and the Informal Economy
Street Trade and the Law
Edited by Alison Brown
Mega-events and Urban Image Construction
Beijing and Rio de Janeiro
Anne-Marie Broudehoux
Urban Geopolitics
Rethinking Planning in Contested Cities
Edited by Jonathan Rokem and Camillo Boano
Urban Geopolitics
Rethinking Planning in Contested Cities
List of illustrations
Notes on contributors
Acknowledgements
Foreword
SARA FREGONESE
PART I
Comparative urban geopolitics
Part introduction
JONATHAN ROKEM
PART III
Urban geopolitics: Middle East and North Africa
Part introduction
JONATHAN ROKEM
PART IV
Urban geopolitics: Latin America
Part introduction
CAMILLO BOANO
PART V
Comparative discussion
Part introduction
JONATHAN ROKEM
Index
Illustrations
Figures
Tables
Apurba Kumar Podder has recently completed his PhD from the
University of Cambridge. He examines how illegality as a condition
informs and shapes the internal dynamics of informal growth in
developing cities.
Camila Cociiia is a Teaching Fellow and PhD candidate at the
Bartlett Development Planning Unit, UCL. Her current research
focuses on housing policies and urban inequalities in the Chilean
context.
Camillo Boano, PhD, is Senior Lecturer at the Bartlett Development
Planning Unit, UCL, and Director of the MSc in Building and Urban
Design in Devel-opment. He is author of The Ethics of a Potential
Urbanism: Critical Encounters Between Giorgio Agamben and
Architecture (2017).
Catalina Ortiz, PhD, is Lecturer at the Bartlett Development
Planning Unit, UCL. She is researching critical spatial practices
intersecting urban design, land management, large-scale projects,
strategic spatial planning and urban policy mobility in the Global
South.
Ernesto López-Morales is Associate Professor in the University of
Chile and Associate Researcher at the Centre for Social Conflict
and Cohesion Studies (COES), where he focuses on land
economic, gentrification, neoliberal urbanism and housing in Chile
and Latin American cities.
Gruia Bădescu is a Lecturer in Human Geography at Christ Church,
University of Oxford. His research interests include post-war
reconstruction and coming to terms with the past.
James D. Sidaway is based at the National University of
Singapore, where he is Professor of political geography. His
research currently focuses on security and insecurity and the
history and philosophy of geography.
Jonathan Rokem, PhD, is Marie Skłodowska-Curie Research Fellow
at the Bartlett School of Architecture, UCL. His research interests
and publications focus on spatial and social critical analysis of
cities and regions.
Kayvan Karimi is a Senior Lecturer within UCL’s Space Syntax
Laboratory and Director of Space Syntax Limited, a UCL
knowledge transfer spin-off. His main areas of research include
evidence-based design and planning, organic and informal
urbanism and large-scale urban systems.
Laura Vaughan is Professor of Urban Form and Society and
Director of UCL’s Space Syntax Laboratory. Laura’s research
addresses the inherent complexity of the urban environment both
theoretically and methodologically. Her most recent book,
Suburban Urbanities, was published by UCL Press in 2015.
Liza Rose Cirolia is a Researcher at the African Centre for Cities,
University of Cape Town. Her research focuses on housing,
infrastructure and land in African cities. Her current PhD research
is focused on public finance in African cities.
Michael Safier is Professor Emeritus at the Development Planning
Unit, UCL. He dedicated his life, research and teaching activities,
and professional practice to urban planning development,
specifically around the conceptualization of cosmopolitan
planning.
Moriel Ram, PhD, is a Research Fellow at the Institute of Advanced
Studies at UCL. His research interests are militarized geographies
and urban geopolitics of faith in the Middle East and the
Mediterranean.
Nimrod Luz is Associate Professor at the Sociology and
Anthropology Depart-ment, Western Galilee College. His research
interests include geography of religion with particular interest in
minorities’ sacred sites, changing cultural landscape of the Middle
East and religiosity in the mixed town of Acre.
Nurit Stadler is Associate Professor at the Sociology and
Anthropology Depart-ment, the Hebrew University of Jerusalem.
Her research interests include Israel’s Ultraorthodox community,
fundamentalism, Greek Orthodox and Catholic rituals in
Jerusalem.
Pawda F. Tjoa is a researcher at Publica, a London-based public
realm consultancy. She recently completed her PhD at the
University of Cambridge, during which she explored the
connection between public space and political ideology in post-
independence Jakarta.
Peter D. A. Wood is a Postdoctoral Fellow in Demography at the
Federal University of Minas Gerais in Belo Horizonte, Brazil. His
work focuses on migration, violence and political participation in
Global South development projects.
Sadaf Sultan Khan has recently completed her PhD at the Space
Syntax Laboratory, UCL. Her work focuses on the appropriation,
adaptation and contestation of urban space by migrant
communities.
Sara Fregonese is based at the University of Birmingham, where
she is Research Fellow in urban resilience. Her research currently
focuses on the urban geopolitics of civil war and terrorism and on
historical-political geographies of sectarianism in the Levant.
Acknowledgements
This volume has been a collective effort, which was initiated from a
double session Rethinking Urban Geopolitics in Ordinary and
Contested Cities convened by the editors at the Royal Geographic
Society (RGS) Annual Conference in London 2014.
We first and primarily want to thank our families for their limitless
support and patience throughout the process of working on this
book and in all our research endeavours. For Jonathan Rokem:
Michal, Ben and Adam, and for Camillo Boano: Elena, Beatrice and
Francesca.
We would like to thank several colleagues who have supported us
throughout our work on this book manuscript, not necessarily in any
specific order. We would like to thank: Julio Dávila Silva, Laura
Vaughan, Caren Levy, Jennifer Robinson, Michael Safier, Matthew
Gandy, James D. Sidaway, Haim Yacobi and Sara Fregonese, among
several other colleagues, for their fruitful conversations and
discussions at different stages of the work on this book. Thanks goes
to Fok Chung Wing and Sadaf Sultan Khan for assistance with the
graphics and maps. We also want to extend our thanks (especially
Jonathan Rokem) to all colleagues in the Space Syntax Laboratory,
Bartlett School of Architecture, UCL, and the European Commission
Horizon 2020 Marie Curie Research Fellowship Grant No. 658742 for
funding this project; and (especially Camillo Boano) to all colleagues
in the Bartlett Development Planning Unit, UCL.
We also want to thank all the authors for their contributions,
commitment and patience during the drafting process; without them
this collective volume would not have come to life. Finally, we want
to thank our editors at Routledge, Faye Leerink and Priscilla Corbett,
for all their support during the production process.
Foreword
Sara Fregonese
[E]ach man bears in his mind a city made only of differences, a city without
figures and without form, and the individual cities fill it up.
Calvino, 1978: 34
References
Adey, P. (2013) Securing the volume/volumen: comments on Stuart Elden’s
plenary paper ‘Secure the volume’. Political Geography, 34: 52–4.
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.polgeo.2013.01.003.
Calvino, I. (1978) Invisible Cities, 1st Harvest/HBJ edn. New York: Harcourt Brace
Jovanovich.
Flint, C. (2006) Cities, war, and terrorism: towards an urban geopolitics (book
review). Annals of the Association of American Geography, 96(1): 216–18.
Fregonese, S. (2012) Urban geopolitics 8 years on: hybrid sovereignties, the
everyday, and geographies of peace. Geography Compass, 6(5): 290–303.
https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1749-8198.2012.00485.x.
Graham, S. (2004) Postmortem city: towards an urban geopolitics. City, 8(2): 165–
196. https://doi.org/10.1080/1360481042000242148.
Graham, S. (2005) Remember Fallujah: demonising place, constructing atrocity.
Environment and Planning D: Society and Space, 23(1): 1–10.
https://doi.org/10.1068/d2301ed.
Graham, S. (2016) Vertical: The City from Satellites to Bunkers. London; New
York: Verso.
Harker, C. (2014) The only way is up? Ordinary topologies of Ramallah: ordinary
topologies of Ramallah. International Journal of Urban and Regional Research,
38(1): 318–35. https://doi.org/10.1111/1468-2427.12094.
Harris, A. (2014) Vertical urbanisms: opening up geographies of the three-
dimensional city. Progress in Human Geography.
https://doi.org/10.1177/0309132514554323.
Hulbert, F. (1989) Essai de géopolitique urbaine et régionale: la comédie urbaine
de Québec. Laval, Quebec: Éditions du Méridien.
Knight Frank Research (2012) The Wealth Report 2012. A Global Perspective on
Prime Property and Wealth.
Smith, N. (2006) Cities, war, and terrorism: towards an urban geopolitics (book
review). International Journal of Urban and Regional Studies, 30(2): 469–70.
Introduction
Towards contested urban geopolitics on a global
scale
References
McFarlane, C. (2010) The comparative city: knowledge, learning, urbanism.
International Journal of Urban and Regional Research, 34(4): 725–42.
McFarlane, C., and Robinson, J. (2012) Introduction: experiments in comparative
urbanism, Urban Geography, 33(6): 765–73.
McFarlane, C., Silver, J., and Truelove, Y. (2016) Cities within cities: intra-urban
comparison of infrastructure in Mumbai, Delhi and Cape Town, Urban
Geography, doi: 10.1080/02723638.2016.1243386.
Nijman, J. (2007) Introduction: comparative urbanism. Urban Geography, 28(1):
1–6.
Peck, J. (2015) Cities beyond compare? Regional Studies, 49(1): 183–6.
Robinson, J. (2006) Ordinary Cities: Between Modernity and Development. London
and New York: Routledge.
Robinson, J. (2011) Cities in a world of cities: the comparative gesture.
International Journal of Urban and Regional Research, 35(1): 1–23.
Robinson, J. (2016) Thinking cities through elsewhere: comparative tactics for a
more global urban studies. Progress in Human Geography, 40(1): 3–29.
Roy, A. (2009) The 21st-century metropolis: new geographies of theory. Regional
Studies, 43(6): 819–30.
Sidaway, J. D., Ho, E. L. E., Rigg, J. D., and Woon, C. Y. (2016) Area studies and
geography: trajectories and manifesto. Environment and Planning D: Society
and Space, 34(5): 777–90.
Ward, K. (2008) Editorial: toward a comparative (re)turn in urban studies? Some
reflections. Urban Geography, 29(5): 405–10.
Ward, K. (2010) Towards a relational comparative approach to the study of cities.
Progress in Human Geography, 34(4): 471–87.
1 Post-war reconstruction in
contested cities
Comparing urban outcomes in Sarajevo and Beirut
Gruia Bădescu
Introduction
Cities of the Balkans and the Middle East have been traditionally
discussed in relationship to diversity, exchange and cosmopolitanism,
but also to conflict and urban violence (Ilbert, 1996; Mazower, 2005;
Driessen, 2005; Freitag and Lafi, 2014; Freitag et al., 2015). An
increasing recent focus on studying urban conflicts has prompted the
analysis of several cities in the region under the umbrella of ‘divided
city in contested states’ research, ranging from Nicosia to Jerusalem,
and either pointing out their planning conundrums (Bollens, 2006,
2012; Pullan, 2013) or exploring and situating everyday practices in
such contested urban space (Bakshi, 2011, 2014; Pullan and Baillie,
2013; Pullan et al., 2013). Beirut and Sarajevo – contextualized and
framed differently in area studies research, but brought together by
the divided and contested cities work – have been highlighted for
showcasing the epitome of urban conflicts: war in the city, or,
according to Bogdanović (1993) and Coward (2006, 2009), urbicide
– a war on the city, urban space and urbanity. ‘Urbicide’, as a key
new term in urban geopolitics (Graham, 2004; Fregonese, 2009) led
to close investigations of meanings of destruction of urban
environment in conflict. Through their wartime experience, Beirut –
scene of the Lebanese Civil War (1975–90) and aerial attacks by
Israel in 2006 – and Sarajevo under siege as part of the war in
Bosnia and Herzegovina (1992–5) – were shaped as urban
geopolitical spaces. As Fregonese (2009: 317) showed in her study
of wartime Beirut, through various practices, including assault and
destruction, possession and partition, Beirut’s urban environment
became geopolitical, as “it was the product and the tool of the re-
territorialisation of the city”. However, as Brand and Fregonese point
out (2013), most literature has focused on the war period itself; they
call for an investigation of processes occurring in the aftermath.
Post-war reconstruction is such a process that provides a lens to
rethink planning and urban geopolitics in contested cities, as well as
their articulations in everyday practices. This chapter examines the
process of urban-architectural post-war reconstruction in Beirut and
Sarajevo in an urban geopolitical frame. It explores how urban
environment both responds to and shapes territorialization processes
and how the discussion of urban geopolitics and the relationship
between urban space and the state can be enriched by urban
comparisons.
Beirut and Sarajevo are particularly fit for a comparison. The two
cities share an urban history including a long period of Ottoman rule
followed by the protectorate of a European power (the Habsburg
state and France, respectively). After the Second world war, the two
cities witnessed a significant expansion and embracement of
architectural modernism in new state frameworks (socialist
Yugoslavia and independent Lebanon). Beirut had a reputation as
the Paris of the Middle East, a sophisticated, thriving city at the edge
of the Mediterranean (Sawalha, 2010), while Sarajevo was a
celebrated symbol of urban coexistence, especially after the 1984
winter Olympics, which portrayed it to the world as a confident place
of harmonious relations between a diverse population. In fact, both
cities were hailed as examples of harmonious, pluralistic urban
societies (Donia, 2006; Saliba, 1998). The populations of both cities
included a mix of Christians and Muslims who shared a common
language – Arabic in Beirut and what was called, for most of the
twentieth century, Serbo-Croatian in Sarajevo. The urban imaginaries
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“Ainsi que mes chagrins, mes beaux jours sont
passés,
Je ne sens plus l’aigreur de ma bile première,
Et laisse aux froids rimeurs, une libre
carrière[81].”
POSTSCRIPT.
Returning home to day, at half past four o’clock, from viewing
some of the sights, (which I have mentioned in my letter), we found a
messenger waiting with a note from the Thuilleries. It proved to be
an invitation to Mrs. ⸺, from the first consul, asking her to dinner
the same day at five. She dressed as quickly as possible, and drove
to the palace. She is just returned; and from her statement, I send
you the following short account.
The entertainment was extremely elegant, and the sight very
striking. More than two hundred persons sat down to table in a
splendid apartment. The company consisted, besides the family of
Bonaparte, of the ministers, the ambassadors, several generals,
senators, counsellors of state, and other constituted authorities. The
number of women present was by no means in proportion to that of
the men, and did not exceed fifteen. All the english ladies, who had
been presented to madame Bonaparte, were invited (though not
their husbands) to this entertainment; but it happened, that only two
remained at Paris.
The dinner was served entirely on plate and Sèvre china, the latter
bearing the letter B on every dish, and every plate; and the plateau
was covered with moss, out of which arose innumerable natural
flowers, the odour of which perfumed the whole room.
The first consul and madame Bonaparte conducted themselves
with much ease, and spoke very affably to those around them.
The servants were numerous, splendidly dressed, and highly
attentive. The dinner lasted more than two hours.
LETTER XXX.
General account of literary establishments at Paris.—National library.—
Manuscripts.—Memoirs of his own times, by Lewis XIV.—Fac simile
of a love letter of Henry IV.—Cabinet of medals.—Cabinet of
engravings, &c.—Library of the Pantheon.—Mazarine library.—Library
of the Institute.—Libraries of the senate, the legislative body, and
tribunate.—The Lycées, now called les Athénées.—Admirable
lectures given at one of them.—Professors Fourcroy, Cuvier, and la
Harpe.—“L’Institute national.”—“Jardin national des Plantes”—
Collection of birds, plants, fossils, and insects, in the house attached
to the “Jardin des Plantes.”—“Cabinet de l’École des Mines, à l’Hôtel
des Monnoies.”—Great opportunities afforded at Paris of cultivating
science and literature in all their various branches.
my dear sir,
I have postponed speaking to you of the literary establishments of
Paris, till my residence here had been sufficiently long to enable me
to give my opinion with some degree of certainty.
Perhaps there is no town in the known world, which affords such
favourable opportunities of acquiring and cultivating knowledge, as
that from which I am now writing. On this subject, equality in the best
sense exists; and while the poor man has the finest libraries, and
most extensive collections opened to his use, without any expense
whatever, he, whose circumstances are moderately easy, obtains,
for a trifling consideration, every possible means of additional
improvement.
The national library, which existed during the monarchy, and was
founded by Charles the fifth, occupies a large building in the rue de
la Loi (ci-devant de Richelieu). An elegant staircase, painted by
Pelegrini, leads to the spacious apartments on the first floor, which
take up three sides of the large court by which you enter, and which
contain no less than three hundred thousand printed volumes. Five
or six rooms, well lighted and well aired, offer on each side the best
books, in every science and in every language. Tables are placed for
the convenience of students, and attentive librarians civilly deliver
the works which are asked for.
In the second room is a curious piece of workmanship, called “le
Parnasse françois[82]” by Titon Dutillet, in which the different poets
and writers of France are represented as climbing up the steep
ascent of that difficult but inspired mountain. In my opinion, it
deserves attention more as a specimen of national taste, and private
industry, than as a production either of genius or of beauty.
In the third “salon” are the celebrated globes, the one celestial, the
other terrestrial, made in 1683, by the jesuit Coronelli, for the
cardinal d’Estrées. They are of immense dimensions, but require
new painting; as, in the first place, they were made before the last
discoveries, and secondly, the colours are almost entirely effaced by
the lapse of time.
This admirable library, which also contains collections of medals,
and other curiosities, is open to all persons who choose to attend as
students, without any expense, recommendation, or favour, every
day in the week; but, to prevent the labours of these being
interrupted, the visits of such as only come from motives of curiosity
are limited to two days in seven. I saw, with pleasure, that the object
of this splendid institution is fully answered. Forty or fifty young men,
deeply intent on the subject of their inquiries, were seated in different
parts of the room, and seemed to pursue, with enthusiasm, those
studies, which the liberality of their country thus afforded them the
means of cultivating.
The gallery of manuscripts (called the gallery of Mazarine)
contains thirty thousand volumes, generally on the history of France,
and more particularly relating to facts which have taken place since
the reign of Lewis XI, twenty-five thousand of which are in learned or
foreign languages. The librarian, to whose care these precious
papers are entrusted, was known to a gentleman who accompanied
me, and through his goodness we saw several, which are not
commonly exhibited.
I was much surprised at finding, in the hand writing of Lewis XIV.
memoirs of his own times, so accurately taken, that, with very little
difficulty, they might be prepared for the press. I understand that a
gentleman, belonging to the library, began this useful task, and had
made considerable progress, when a sudden illness deprived his
country and the literary world of his services.
I was not a little entertained with the love letters of Henry IV.,
which are in perfect preservation, and some of which have, I believe,
been published. The following is a fac simile of one, which
particularly attracted my notice:
8
ce xiiiiime octobre 8 h 8
8
HENRY[83].”
my dear sir,
You know how much I dislike the petty detail of economical
arrangements, and will therefore pardon me for having so long
delayed to speak to you of the expenses and mode of living at Paris.
I have not forgotten your queries, and will, in this letter, endeavour to
answer them as fully as possible. You will, at least, derive one
advantage from my apparent neglect; that the information which I
shall now send you, is not hastily given, but the result of experience,
gained during a residence of nearly seven months.
Persons who have represented Paris (to use a vulgar phrase) as a
cheap place, have either been greatly deceived themselves, or have
intended purposely to deceive. The difference between the expense
of living in London and in Paris, appears to me infinitely less than it is
generally supposed. It is true, indeed, that a french family will
apparently support a much more elegant establishment on a given
income, than an english one can in London; but I believe the cause
arises almost entirely from the superiour economy and arrangement
of the former, from the sparing system observed in the interiour of
private houses, and from the constant and unvarying attention to the
minutiæ of every disbursement. Though the table of a Parisian
boasts, when company are invited, every kind of luxury, yet I have
reason to suspect, that, on ordinary occasions, “le bouilli[87],” and “le
vin ordinaire,” form its principal support. A carriage, which has been
in a family twenty or thirty years, is treated with all the respect due to
its antiquity, and is seldom or ever discarded on account of its
oldfashioned shape or faded colour; and horses, used only now and
then, may be fed on hay and straw. Liveries are forbidden by the law;
and servants are therefore permitted to wait in the tattered garments
which their present master has left off, or in those which they have
collected in a former service.
The drawing-rooms, and “salles à manger,” are lighted, even at
the largest assemblies, with oil, instead of wax; and antichambers
and staircases are so dark, that to find one’s way into the principal
apartment is generally a service of difficulty, if not of danger. As to
fire, on common occasions, one in the bed room either of “madame,”
or “monsieur,” is thought sufficient, with the addition of a “poële,” or
stove, which is so contrived, as to heat both the eating room, and the
antichamber, in which latter the servants always sit. In respect to
dress, an old great coat (or “riding coat,” as they call it) is often worn
in the house, by gentlemen, and the belles who appear with the
greatest splendour in the evening, sometimes pass their morning in
a powdering gown, or “robe de chambre.”
The same kind of rigid economy is observed in their amusements.
A family of distinction will occupy a box “au second, or au
bagnoir[88],” to save a few livres; and I knew a young lady of
considerable fortune, who expressed an anxious wish to see the first
appearance of Vestris, and who, when a place was offered her,
refused it, malgré the general passion for spectacles, and the
celebrity of this, when she found that the price of the ticket was nine
francs (or seven and sixpence english). I have entered into this
explanation, to account for the apparently splendid establishments of
persons of moderate fortunes, which might otherwise seem to
contradict the opinion which I am about to give, and which I have
already hinted.
I repeat, then, that an english family settling here[89], with english
ideas and english habits, would spend very little less than they would
do in London, with a similar establishment.
To enable you to judge for yourself on this subject, I shall mention
the prices of the most essential articles of expense; some of which
are lower, while others are infinitely higher.
Meat is much cheaper, being only eleven or twelve sols per pound
(or five or six pence english).
Bread bears, at present, nearly the same price in the two
countries.
The keep of horses costs infinitely less at Paris, than in London.
Poultry is cheaper; and wine of the best kind may be bought for
something more than we pay for good port.
On the other hand, house rent is equally dear, if not dearer.
Furniture is exorbitant; and dress of all kinds, both for men and
women (only excepting shoes and gloves) is, beyond comparison,
dearer in price, and more expensive in its kind.
The price of amusements, in the first places, is nearly the same at
the large theatres of Paris, as at those of London; and spectacles,
being infinitely more frequented at the former than in the latter city,
much more is spent, in this article, in the one than in the other
capital.
Groceries are dearer, and fuel at least double. Putting these
articles, the one against the other, perhaps with economy eleven
hundred pounds in Paris might purchase as many conveniences as
twelve in London. But I think even this difference is liberally allowed.
Having given this rough calculation of family expenses, I shall
proceed to speak more particularly of those of a foreigner, or
temporary resident. On this point I can be more positive, having
experience for my guide.
A job carriage and pair of horses cost from twenty to twenty two
louis per month, according to the manner in which you are served. A
pair of horses, without the hire of a carriage, may be had for fifteen
or sixteen louis per month. In both cases the coachman is paid by
the jobman; but the former expects a trifle, as a mark of your
approbation.
A “laquais de place” asks four, but will take three, livres (or half a
crown English) per day.
Apartments vary so infinitely in price, according to the part of the
town where they are situate, according to the number of rooms
wanted, according to the height of the floor, and, above all, according
to the bargain made by the individual wanting them, that it is very
difficult to fix any thing like an average. I shall only say, generally,
that I think a single man may be well lodged (at a price proportioned
to the accommodation which he requires) from five to twelve louis
per month; and a family of two or three persons, with as many
servants, from twelve to thirty louis.
A “traiteur” will supply a dinner at six livres (or five shillings) per
head; but the fare will neither be very good, nor very abundant.
Wine, of the best quality, if taken from the “traiteur,” or the master
of the hotel, will cost from five to six livres the bottle. The same may
be had from a wine merchant at about half the price. I ought to add,
that it is not expected here, as in England, that the wine should
necessarily be ordered from the person who supplies your table.
The price of washing is greater than in London; and the english
ladies complain much of the manner in which it is executed.
Fuel is immensely dear. A “voie de bois,” or load of wood, the
contents of which one fire will consume in ten days, costs about
thirty two or thirty three livres (making about twenty six or twenty
seven shillings english.)
About nine livres (or seven shillings and sixpence) are paid for
admittance in the first places for each person at the “opera,” at “le
théâtre de la Feydeau,” and at “le théâtre de la rue Favart;” at the
“théâtre françois” six livres, twelve sols, (or five shillings and
sixpence english) and in the little theatres, half a crown, or three
shillings. I cannot give the prices exactly, as they vary according to
the manner in which you go to the play-house. In taking a box, more
is paid for each ticket, than what is otherwise paid simply for the
admittance of each individual at the door.
Clothing is very expensive. A plain frock of superfine cloth costs
from four louis to five and a half, according to the fashion of the
tailor: and I am told, that ladies’ muslins are at least four times
dearer than in London.
About lodgings, it is very necessary that those who intend visiting
Paris should make previous arrangements. The hotels are not so
numerous as before the revolution; and the difficulty of getting well
accommodated is much greater than any one, who has not been
here, can possibly conceive. Great advantage is also taken of the
situation of strangers, who arrive (unprepared) at one of these
houses with post horses, the drivers of which are always impatient,
and very often impertinent, if you detain them long in seeing rooms,
or go to several hotels, before you are settled.
To enable you and your friends to form some idea of the merits of
the different hotels, and accordingly to give directions to your
correspondents, I will add a list and short account of the most
celebrated.
“L’Hôtel de Grange Batelière, rue de Grange Batelière,” in the
Chaussée Dantin, (where Lord Cornwallis lodged) is a large and
spacious house, in which there are many handsome apartments. It
has also the advantage of a fine and extensive garden. I think I have
heard, that the charges here are rather high. The situation of the
house is excellent; adjoining the Boulevard, nearly opposite “la rue
de la Loi (or de Richelieu),” and in that part of the town, which is now
esteemed the most fashionable.
“L’Hôtel de l’Empire,” rue Cerruti, (formerly the private house of M.
la Borde, the king’s Banker) is much frequented by the english. It is
of course expensive. The high reputation which this hotel enjoys,
induced me to go there on my first arrival. I was much disappointed. I
did not find either the lodgings good, or the cooking very superiour.
The principal apartment is certainly very splendid, the price of which
is ninety louis per month; but the other rooms have nothing very
particular to recommend them. Every kind of refreshment is found in
the house, and charged by the article, as at the hotels in London,
and at about the same prices.
This house is also in the “Chaussée Dantin,” and not far distant
from “l’Hôtel de Grange Batelière.”
In the “rue de la Loi,” (or “de Richelieu”) there are several hotels;
but the situation, though extremely central and convenient, has the
disadvantage of being very noisy. The upper part of the street, near
the Boulevard, is the most agreeable; and in that position are “l’Hôtel
de l’Europe,” and “l’Hôtel des Étrangers.” They appear good houses.
I know nothing of their character.
“L’Hôtel d’Angleterre, rue des Filles de St. Thomas,” very near the
“rue de la Loi,” has been inhabited by several English this winter.
The charges are said to be expensive. The situation is convenient;
but it is noisy, and surrounded by houses.
“L’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Vivienne,” very near the “rue de la Loi,”
and the “Palais Royal,” is also in the centre of the town. This house I
have heard more generally commended by those who have lodged
there, as to its prices, accommodations, and kitchen, than any other
at Paris; but I cannot say I like the street where it stands, which is
both close and dirty.
“L’Hôtel de Mirabeau, rue de Helder,” is in a new street, near the
Boulevard. It seems a good house. I do not know its character.
The two hotels, the situation of which is the most agreeable, being
both near the Boulevard, the Thuilleries, and the Champs Elisées,
are “l’Hôtel de Courlande, place Louis XV, (or de la Concorde”), and
“l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Royale (or de la Concorde).” The former
is part of that fine building, the “Garde Meuble,” and stands in the
most beautiful “place,” or square, of Paris. The windows command a
delightful view of the “place,” the bridge, the river, the Thuilleries, and
Champs Elisées. The house is newly furnished, and only lately
opened. I am sorry to add, that it consists but of few apartments; but
those which there are, are elegant and spacious. The prices are
extremely high. I was asked forty louis a month for a second floor.
The other house, I mean “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Royale (or de
la Concorde)” standing in a very wide street, which runs from the
Boulevard to “la place Louis XV,” has equal advantages as to the
neighbourhood of all the public walks, with the hotel of which I spoke
last; but it does not command the same view. I am forced also to
mention, having lived two months in the house, that the landlord is a
very insolent fellow, and his wife, if possible, more impertinent than
himself.
There are three small hotels, called, “l’Hôtel de Galle,” “l’Hôtel des
Quinz Vingts,” and “l’Hôtel de Carousel,” all in the immediate
neighbourhood of the palace of the Thuilleries, of which each
commands a view. A single man would be agreeably lodged at one
of these; but I should not suppose, that there was sufficient
accommodation at either for a family consisting of several persons.
In the “Fauxbourg St. Germain,” the hotels formerly frequented by
the english either exist no more, or have lost their reputation. Those
only which are of any repute in this part of the town, seem to be
“l’Hôtel de Rome, rue St. Dominique,” where there are several
handsome apartments, more remarkable for their size than their
cleanliness; and “l’Hôtel de Marengo,” in the same street, and next
door to the former. The lodgings of the latter are good; but some
friends of mine, who lived there, complained much of the
disagreeable state, in which they found the beds. Both these hotels
have good gardens.
“L’Hôtel de Caramont,” in the same street, belonging to the ci-
devant comte of that name, though not an “hôtel garni,” is let in
apartments, the greater part of which were occupied first by Mr.
Jackson, and afterwards by Mr. Merry. The rooms are delightful; but
it rarely happens, that any are vacant. I forgot to mention, that there
is also in this street a small hotel, called, “l’Hôtel de Jura,” which is
well furnished, and has a pretty garden.
The houses, which I have enumerated, are those which are the
most known, the best situate, and the most esteemed. Beside these,
there are “l’Hôtel de Vauban,” “l’Hôtel de Congrès,” and “l’Hôtel de la
Grand Bretagne,” all situate in “la rue St. Honoré,” and said to be
respectable houses. For those also who do not object to be
surrounded with bustle and noise, “l’Hôtel de la Chancellerie,” near
the “Palais Royal,” will offer good accommodations. I am told, the
apartments there are uncommonly elegant, and extremely
spacious[90].
To this account I must add a negative recommendation of la rue
Traversière, in which there are several hotels, and into which the
windows of some in la rue de la Loi also look. A perpetual market,
with all the attendant smells, renders the houses in “la rue
Traversière” extremely unpleasant; and the same reason obstructs
the passage, so that it is difficult, in a carriage, to find one’s way to
any door in this street. The caution is the more necessary, as
postboys frequently recommend the situation.
There is some objection to almost every hotel; I cannot, therefore,
recommend any one; but, were I to visit Paris again, I think I should
either try “l’Hôtel de Courlande, place Louis XV,” the situation of
which is incomparable; “l’Hôtel de Grange Batelière,” which, in
accommodations and size, is superior to any house of the same
kind; or “l’Hôtel des Étrangers, rue Vivienne,” which is universally
well spoken of by those who have inhabited it.
As to the “traiteurs,” or persons who supply you with dinners, they
sometimes belong to the house where you lodge, and sometimes
not.
I tried several during my stay at Paris, and I found them all so bad,
and so uncertain, that, were I to return, I would either hire a cook, or
dine constantly at the house of a “restaurateur[91].” The most
celebrated are, Naudit, and Robert, in the Palais Royal, Beauvillier in
the rue de la Loi, and Verry in the garden of the Thuilleries. Besides
the public room, which is always elegantly ornamented, there is, at
each of these places, several small rooms, or cabinets, for private
parties. A long bill of fare, called “la carte,” consisting of all the
delicacies of the season, and every variety of wine, with the prices
affixed to each article, is handed to you, and the dishes are no
sooner named, than they are instantly served. The apartments are
tastefully decorated, the linen and plate are particularly clean, and
the waiters civil, attentive, and well dressed. The cooking is
incomparable. Ladies, as well as gentlemen, dine at these houses,
and even in the public room several of the former are always
present. On a rough calculation, the expense of dining at one of the
first restaurateurs, including a fair quantity of the best wine, varies
from twelve livres (ten shillings) to a louis each person.
There are, however, inferiour houses of this kind, where, even for
trent-six sols (or eighteen pence english) a dinner of several dishes,