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FASHION
HOUSE
For Craig, who designed and built the per
home for our little family
Illustrated interiors from the icons of style
FASHION
HOUSE
I N T R O D U C T I O N / 7
10 Essential Pieces / 9
A B O U T T H E A U T H O R / 17 5
HITCHCOCK
GIRLS
MURDER
SUSPENSE
GRACE
KELLY IN CAPRI
AND MORE!
ADD DRAMA TO YOUR LIFE
Introduction
Ever since my first sketch made its mark on the page, I’ve
madly in love with fashion illustration. Over the years, my
for illustrating a Chanel dress or Dior coat has never waver
But something else has slowly crept into my work and fille
with equal enthusiasm. This is the interior world my fashio
inhabits: the rooms that are as beautiful as the clothes one
These blows were so crushing and dreadful that the Golden Horde
never recovered. Many Russians thought that the end of Mongol rule
was before them. But the end was not yet, as was evident soon after.
The first to experience this bitter truth was Vitold, who had won
against Yagello and was now the haughty ruler of Lithuania and
Western Russia. Tamerlane gave the Golden Horde to a son of Urus
Khan, the former rival of Tohtamish, but Edigai, who had been one of
Tamerlane’s generals, assumed Mamai’s rôle,—the creation of
Khans and ruling through them. He set up now Timur Kutlui instead
of the man whom Tamerlane had appointed.
Meanwhile Tohtamish, who had ruled the Golden Horde for twenty
years, had taken refuge with Vitold. Through Tohtamish, Tamerlane’s
fallen rival, Vitold planned to control the Golden Horde, and in that
way win Moscow. The first step was to capture Sarai for his protege.
Envoys came at this juncture from Kutlui with the message:
“Surrender Tohtamish, my enemy! Tohtamish, once a great prince,
but now a vile deserter. Such is the fickleness of fortune.” Vitold
refused, adding: “I myself will march on Kutlui.” Hearing of this
resolution, Yedviga, Queen of Poland, warned Vitold, stating that
through her power of prophecy she foresaw that great misfortune
would overtake him. But he would not heed her warning.
In July, 1399, Vitold set out on his expedition. The fame of Kulikovo
roused him, it is said, beyond other considerations, and he hoped to
eclipse Dmitri’s fame by greater achievements. He crossed the
Dnieper near Kief and vanished in the steppes. Passing the Horol
and the Sula, he halted at Varskla. On the opposite bank appeared
the Mongols led by Kutlui, who, seeing that his enemy was superior
in numbers, began to negotiate. To win time was his object, for he
was waiting for Edigai with a second Mongol army.
Kutlui died soon after this expedition, and Edigai put Kutlui’s brother,
Shadibek, on the throne at Sarai. Seven years later Tohtamish died
in Siberia, slain, it is said, by the hand of Edigai, his dire enemy.
Vitold’s defeat on the Vorskla was important for Eastern Europe. The
weakening of Lithuania, even for a time, was a godsend to Moscow.
Not without satisfaction might the people there look on this struggle
between the two deadly enemies of Russia. Tamerlane’s war with
Tohtamish and Vitold’s great conflict with Kutlui were vastly
important, and useful to Moscow and Russia. Many Smolensk
people, weary of Vitold, wished to recall their native prince, Yuri, son
of Sviatoslav, who was living in Ryazan with Oleg, his wife’s father,
and in 1400 Yuri turned to his father-in-law with these words: “My
Smolensk friends have sent men saying that many desire me. Wilt
thou give aid now to win my inheritance?” Oleg consented, and in
1401 he appeared at Smolensk with an army, and declared to the
people: “If ye refuse Yuri, I will not stop till I capture Smolensk, and
destroy it.” A schism rose quickly. Some were for Vitold, and others
were against him. [409]Yuri’s party was the stronger, and in August
the Smolensk gates were opened to him. This prince then gave rein
to his passion, and marked his return by killing Vitold’s chief
partisans.
In the war which came later between Lithuania on one side and
Smolensk with Ryazan on the other, Vitold’s attempt to get
possession of Smolensk was a failure. Oleg now thought to regain
from Lithuania certain seizures, and sent his son, Rodoslav, to win
the Bryansk principality, but Vitold despatched an army under
Simeon, son of Olgerd, his skilful cousin, and Rodoslav met an
overwhelming defeat. Captured and put in prison, he lay there until
ransomed, three years later. This reverse killed Oleg, then an old
man. Yuri’s position changed straightway. Though Vitold laid siege to
Smolensk without taking it, and was forced to withdraw, he resolved
to subdue the place. In time many boyars, indignant at the cruelty of
Yuri, grew friendly to Vitold.
Yuri had no aid now from any power, and the city was divided. He
went to Moscow and begged Prince Vassili to defend him, as he
promised obedience to Moscow. Vassili did not refuse the request,
but he made no immediate promise, for he had no wish to raise arms
against Vitold. Meanwhile Vitold, during Yuri’s absence, appeared at
Smolensk, and in the summer of 1404 boyars surrendered the city.
Vitold also was terribly cruel, slaying, and driving out of Smolensk all
his powerful opponents, but as an adroit politician, he attracted many
people by privileges, and turned them from Yuri, who now went to
Novgorod, where they welcomed him, and gave him several towns to
manage.
It was clear that Vitold had recovered from the Vorskla disaster, and
was aiming to seize Pskoff and Novgorod. In 1405 he attacked
Pskoff, took Koloje, slew many people, and captured large numbers.
Novgorod, as usual, was either late with assistance, or refused to
coöperate. Pskoff men turned then to Moscow, and Vassili,
understanding at last the great peril which threatened him from
Vitold, broke peace with his father-in-law, and sent men to war on
Lithuania. In the course of three years, 1406, 1407, and 1408, war
between these two princes had an annual renewal. Three times did
Vassili and Vitold march against each other with large forces, but
each time they stopped before decisive battle, and withdrew after a
truce was made. It is evident that this halting was [410]caused in part
by their mutual relations, in part by the caution of each man in view
of the other.
Their last meeting took place September, 1408, on the Ugra, which
served as a boundary between them. After they had been encamped
face to face on opposite banks of the river for several days, they
made a peace by which the boundaries of their lands remained as
they were at that time. Later on, Vitold made no serious move
against Pskoff or even Novgorod. By this war, therefore, Moscow
restrained Vitold in Eastern and Northern Russia. The war had other
results also. Many noted Lithuanians and Russians, from one and
another cause, were dissatisfied with Vitold, and went to join
Moscow. Especially numerous were the men from near southern
districts of Chernigoff. Among them appeared in 1408 the brother of
the Polish king, Prince Svidrigello, son of Olgerd. Laying claim as he
did to Lithuania, he had no wish to be subordinate to Vitold. Vassili
was willing to welcome such an exile, and gave Svidrigello a number
of towns to support him. Such liberality to a stranger displeased
Russian boyars, and later on they were raging when Svidrigello,
instead of defending Moscow against Edigai, fled meanly with his
numerous attendants, plundering the people as he traveled.
Strange was the fate of Yuri, the last Smolensk prince. He did not
remain long in Novgorod, and when the break came between Vassili
and Vitold he appeared in Moscow a second time, with Prince
Simeon of Vyazma. Vassili gave Yuri Torjok to support him. Now his
unrestrained temper brought the man to a crime of foul aspect. He
flamed up with passion for the wife of Prince Simeon. Meeting with
strong resistance on her part, he strove to use violence, and when
she defended herself with a keen weapon, he killed her. On that
same day he killed her husband also. No matter how rude was the
period, or how much liberty princes sometimes allowed themselves,
such disregard of human and Christian rules roused indignation and
rage in all men. Either expelled by Vassili, or rushing away from
Torjok of his own will, Yuri fled to the Horde, but finding no refuge
there, or in any place, he wandered some months, sick and weighed
down in spirit, till he hid himself at last with an abbot named Peter, in
whose monastery his life ended shortly afterward.
The Golden Horde Khans had no thought at this time of yielding their
hold upon Russia. They were at all times domineering, and in this
they were encouraged by the princes of Tver, Ryazan and Suzdal,
who continued to visit Sarai to obtain patents. Edigai had helped
Vassili against Vitold; he had even roused enmity between the two
princes to weaken them when peace was finally made, and now he
resolved to show that Moscow was really subject to the Horde. But
both Russians and Mongols remembered Kulikovo, and knew that
war between Moscow and the Horde would be most serious, hence
at Sarai they resolved on a stealthy and treacherous policy.
But even after receiving this message Vassili was unwilling to give
tribute to the Mongols; and he was right in view of the turmoil and
trouble in Sarai. Only when Edigai had been hunted from the Horde
and the son of Tohtamish, Jelal ed din, the ally of Vitold, and the
protector of the Suzdal princes then fighting with Vassili, had taken
his place, did the Moscow prince decide at last on a visit to the
Mongols, taking with him rich gifts, and words of obedience. But
during his stay at Sarai Jelal ed din was dethroned, and murdered by
Kerim Berda, his own brother, who straightway declared himself an
enemy of Vitold, and friendly to Vassili.
Perhaps the new Khan was of those who had found asylum in
Moscow, when wandering and powerless. Still the formal relations of
the principality to the Horde were those of a tributary. Some time
later Kerim Berda was dethroned by a brother, and the dance of
disorder continued.
The apparent cause for this collision was Jmud, which Vitold, when
preparing to struggle with Yagello so as to bring him to his side, had
given to the Knights of the Cross in return for their aid, and which
had remained pagan after Lithuania itself had been Catholicized
through Yagello by contract. The Germans introduced Christianity
with fire and sword into Jmud, entering that region by two sides,
Livonia and Russia. The people met their attackers with reprisals
and uprisings, with resistance of all kinds, and begged their prince,
Vitold, to help them. He meanwhile, through policy, avoided a break
with the Order, and sometimes even helped that same Order to
crush his own people. But he was waiting to choose the right
moment to take back his inheritance.
At this juncture there rose a dispute between the Order and Yagello,
touching lands called Neumarch, or New March, which belonged to
Sigismund of Hungary. Later on Neumarch was mortgaged to the
Order by Sigismund, that Emperor famous for the evil of his
friendship, and the virtue of his enmity, renowned [415]also for the
burning of John Huss after he had given him a safe-conduct, one of
the most infamous acts recorded in the history of any country. This
land touched on Poland. Its boundaries were disputed, and caused a
Polish grievance. The Poles had another and greater grievance: The
Order had taken from them Pomerania on the Baltic. There was
hatred on both sides.
The Order felt confident of victory, and beyond any doubt would have
won it had Poland been alone in the conflict. From 1393 till 1407
Konrad von Jungingen, the Grand Master, a man who was pious and
peace-loving, repressed all hostile movements. But the Order grew
weary of peace, and when Konrad died his cousin, Ulrich, who was
as warlike as Konrad had been peace-loving, was chosen Grand
Master and war was inevitable. There were many causes for conflict,
but the overshadowing and great one was race ambition. The Order
felt confident of victory, and chose its moment for battle.
July 15, 1410, the forces of the Order engaged those led by Vitold
and Yagello at Tannenberg, and there the Order met a merciless
defeat, from which it never rose as a military body. But, though
utterly vanquished, the Order was able, with endurance and
management, to save Eastern Prussia to the Germans, and in
Königsberg, the capital of that Prussia, was crowned the first
Prussian king, whose descendant is now the Emperor of Germany.
Meanwhile, Heinrich von Plauen, Komtur of the Order, had led home
the remnant of the knightly army, and brought in provisions. He
defended Marienberg valiantly. The siege dragged on; disease
struck the armies of Yagello and Vitold. Help was marching to the
Order from Germany and Livonia. Sigismund, just chosen Emperor,
threatened war openly. Vitold abandoned [416]the siege and left
Marienberg, influenced, it was said, by cunning hints that by helping
Poland over much he would harm his own power and position. He
was followed by Prince Yanush of Mazovia, and Zemovit, his brother.
At last Yagello raised the siege and marched away from the
stronghold. Many Prussian towns which had surrendered at first to
Yagello returned now to the Order. War lasted till the following year,
and ended with the treaty of Torun (Thorn), by which the Order
retained almost all it had held previous to the battle. Jmud went,
however, to Vitold, and the land of Dabryn to Yagello, but the gains
were not great if compared with what they might have been.
Close relations between Vitold’s lands and those of the Polish Crown
continued because of common danger from the Germans. The Order
recovered considerably under its new Master. It could fall back for
support upon Germany, where Sigismund befriended it. The greatest
loss for the Order was Jmud, which divided Livonia from Prussia,
and thus hindered contact between the two parts of the Order. Jmud
prevented the union of Germanized lands on the Baltic. But a greater
gain to the Poles was the act of Horodlo.
At that time there was actual collision between Vassili and Vitold; the
latter, determined to have a metropolitan in the lands under him,
proposed Theodosia. The Patriarch failed to accept this suggestion,
and in 1408 appointed Foti, a Greek born in the Morea, as Cyprian’s
successor. Vitold was very angry, and, in view of Western
displeasure with Foti, decided to have a second metropolitan. His
choice fell on Gregori Samblak, who was, as some declared, a
nephew of Cyprian.
About 1420 the land ruled by Vitold stretched from the Baltic to the
Euxine, and from the Western Būg to the Oká River, while his
influence went far beyond those limits. Vassili, Grand Prince of
Moscow, when dying, committed his young son and heir to Vitold’s
protection, and after Vassili’s death the princes of Tver and Ryazan
were at least morally dependent on Vitold. Pskoff and Novgorod felt
his hand over them, and purchased peace with money. The Crimea
Mongols, and those near the Black Sea showed fear and respect
before this strong, crafty ruler.
Yagello was not weighty as a ruler. The master mind of the Polish
Commonwealth of that day was Olesnitski, Archbishop of Cracow,
and Chancellor. In 1410 this man had been in the king’s suite at
Tannenberg, and had saved the life of Yagello, whom the Germans
came very near killing. From Tannenberg began Olesnitski’s great
influence. A man of high gifts, he was unbending in all that gave
profit to his religion and his country. Vitold was baffled in everything
which was not in favor of Polish interests as Olesnitski understood
them.
After Gedimin and Olgerd, Vitold was the third and last of those
princes who united Lithuania and Western Russia. No matter how
Vitold toiled to reach the goal of his ambition, the result of his toil
went to Poland. While working against union with that country, and
building a state to oppose it, he was really preparing for that union,
since the Polish kingdom was the only power served by his activity.
In founding a state east of Poland, Vitold dispossessed the Russian
princes west of Moscow, and by doing this cleared a great field for
the Polish Commonwealth. He had not power sufficient to build a
new, independent, political structure. He [421]made agreements with
Poland intending to break them, as he had broken those which he
made with the Germans. But Vitold passed away without building his
kingdom, and his agreements remained clearly written on paper. The
Poles clung to those documents, and exhibited them as title-deeds to
dominion, the Magna Charta of their Commonwealth.