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Hi here’s some pics of my setup the first pic is of the benches they are very simple in design just

a board with a steel centre point that’s your straight line it should run in line with the centre of
your board.

Here’s a close up of the centre point

here’s the benches from the side

Basically the way I expose my screens is I separate my images in Photoshop print out all my
separate colours on film you have to make sure you select all crop marks in Photoshop when you
print your films as you need the centre marks to line up your films. I also print out one of my
colours on paper this is how I line up my films.

The pic bellow shows my art work on paper with the centre crop marks you stick this to the
board were ever you want your print to go. I usually just spray the back of it with board spray
but you can tape it if you like.
There’s my artwork printed on to normal paper and stuck to my platen with the centre reg
marks.

This pic shows my centre reg marks running in line with the centre of my platen. This lets you
make sure that your artwork is straight ands saves you messing about with the ruler and t
square which is not needed.

The next thing I do is take my film positive and stick double sided tape to it. you then set your
film positive on top of your original art work that was printed out at the start on paper and stuck
to the board.
Line the tick marks up on top of each other as seen in the picture above. The next step is to
get your screen. My screen doesn’t have any emulsion on it, it’s just for demo purposes. If you
look at my screens in the picture bellow they have a metal bar drilled in to them this bar buts up
against the centre bar on the platen which is in the first picture at the start of the Paige. There
is also two bolts at each side this allows you to move the screen up or down if you have baggy
screens and need to adjust your reg up and down after exposure.

Take your screen and but it up against the centre bar on the platen like shown in the picture bel-
low.
Now the screen is in position lean on the screen and the film positive will stick to the underside
of the screen bellow as you have put double sided tape on your film positive. See the pic bel-
low.
Here’s your film in register and stuck to the bottom of your screen. You can repeat this process
for as many colours as you like I’ve done eight colour jobs with this setup. The beauty of this is
if you stretch your own screens and get a repeat job you can just get your screen that you used
six months ago but it up against the centre bar and print. No more test prints adjusting and mi-
cros on carousels to re register your job just pick it up off the shelf and print. Here’s a pic of the
exposure unit pretty simple just a six hundred watt metal halide bulb I use some cook books to
get contact instead of an expensive vacuum unit.

A lot of people think how can the screens stay steady when you print. Well most people use one
hand to print the other one holds the frame against the stop. Or sometimes I lean against the
screen when printing with two hands. The way to test how accurate this method is take a screen
you have hold it in your hands and but it up you a wall or flat surface try and move it from side
to side it can’t that why this setup holds its register so well compared to most carousels.

Here’s a job a printed a couple of days ago for a customer it’s an image of bob marly simulated
process just three colours white under base cool grey and highlight white.
Hope this helps if you have any other questions just send me a message any time.

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