August 23rd

Hornsund; Gåshamna, Burgerbukta

GPS NOON position: 76º57’N 15º50’E
Air Temperature: 3°C

Was it just me, or did everyone dream of having an Arctic fox for a pet last night?
After sailing through the open waters around Sørkapp we had arrived at
Hornsund, noted for its striking landscape. Our landing was at Gåshamna, where
the remains of an English whaling site (1618-1650) are still visible. Noteworthy
here were the many bowhead mandibles. When the whales were stripped of their
blubber at the beach, the carcasses were left to rot at the water’s edge. However,
the heads of the whales must have been toted marginally inland to where the
whalers could efficiently remove the baleen plates.

At the far end of the bay are the remains of the Russian Arc-de-Meridian station,
but we chose to hike in the opposite
direction. Why? Although none of the staff
had ever been west of the whaling site, we
had reports of a Pomor settlement there.
After a short hike we discovered another
double whaling oven (not recorded in our
literature), further Arc-de-M relics, and some
well preserved fox traps. Three historic eras
before we even reached the Pomor site.

Christopher asked us how it would be possible to identify the remains as

belonging to the Pomors. And you answered: the foundations were of a typical
Pomor ‘drop-wall’ construction; the presence of red bricks within the foundations
is a hallmark of Pomor structures
– they used them for their stoves
(later Norwegian hunters brought
metal stoves with them). We
learned that the Pomors (‘po’ &
‘mor’ = ‘people’ of the ‘sea’) came
to Spitsbergen from Russia’s
White Sea region ca. 1700-1850
to hunt walruses, polar bears and
foxes. These hunters, sent north
by mercantile agencies and
monasteries, wintered on the islands to gain access to the best bear and fox furs.
It remains unclear as to why they stopped coming to Spitsbergen, but by the
early 19th century they were being supplanted by hunters from Norway.
Not to be upstaged by the Pomors, Barnaby challenged the Spitsbergen
elements with his own approach – an icy swan(ish) dive into the sea. Steaming
hot soup, please.

Back on the Molchanov we lifted anchor and headed deeper into the magnificent
fjord system of Hornsund. By 16:30 we had arrived at Burgerbukta, ready to go:
our last Zodiac cruise of the trip. Our departure was even more expedient
because we had seen a polar bear swimming from an iceberg to the shore. Once
in the Zodiacs we located the bear walking up from the beach. Moving slowly
towards it, the bear scampered off, and we immediately decided to let it be.
There were 180 bears tagged in Spitsbergen this year, and most of those will do
their best to avoid further hominid encounters.

Cruising into Burgerbukta it

became clear the ice would
prevent us from reaching the
glacier front. No worries - this
was a wonderful ice cruise
anyway, and a great final time
in the Zodiacs. Blue ice, blue
ice, mirrored mountains,
mirrored mountains. Turning
off the engines we floated and
listened to the swishing,
crackling and popping of the
ice.

Back on the ship we kicked off our wellies and slipped on our dancing shoes.
After a patented Troels briefing and recap, it was out to the aft deck. Chefs Richie
and Lee, with the assistance of Gemma and the two Anastasias, had prepared
an incredible barbeque feast. Dining surrounded by such spectacular scenery
was a first for many. After a few cups of mulled wine and a little dessert, our
Bosun DJ Anatoly cranked up the music and before you knew it, everyone was
dancing around in a train chain – it was a great way to keep warm in 3°C. When
we weighed anchor at midnight, most set off for bed. The ocean swell would
carry us north overnight, to our penultimate destination – Bellsund.

August 24th
Bellsund; Ingeborgfjellet, Akseløya
Sailing for Longyearbyen, Isfjorden
GPS NOON position: 77º45’N 14º28’E
Air Temperature: 8°C
Our final day found us in Bellsund, where we went ashore at Ingeborgfjellet, site
of a now deserted little auk colony. We managed to clamber in and out of our
boats and up onto a thick mossy area (no mean feat for some of the night owls).
Scanning the scree slopes for foxes, we noticed a small herd of reindeer near our
position. Troels led us slowly towards the four beasts for a closer look. Not the
least concerned with our presence, this quartet was the best reindeer sighting of
our voyage. Those who lingered a while longer got some terrific photographs of
them with some dramatic mountains and the Molchanov in the background.

Our final tundra hike led us over to an odd little place named Camp Millar, an
early 20th century Northern Exploration Company (NEC) mining camp. From
1910-1920 Ernest Manfield’s NEC mined all over west Spitsbergen – for marble,
coal and, at Camp Millar, gold. Like most other mining ventures in Spitsbergen, it
was never very profitable. Near the adet and rusting carts, Christopher talked
about mining and the role it played in Spitsbergen land claims a century ago. He
also made mention of the connection between the polar heroes, north and south
(e.g. Frank Wild led an NEC coal mining expedition to Camp Morton, just a few
miles from here). The slow stroll back to the landing beach continued to
fascinate. Apart from the great vistas, there were additional mining and hunting
relics, flora, and geology.

As we settled into lunch and some delicious focaccia, the Molchanov steamed a
short way across the bay to anchor at baguette-shaped Akseløya (8km long x
less than 1km wide). Akseløya blocks the entrance to Van Mijenfjord, which
means that the sea ice remains in this fjord much later into the summer than
elsewhere along the west coast. This has been a problem for the Norwegian coal
mine at Sveagruva, deep inside Van Mijenfjord, as an ice breaker is required
each spring for access. Akseløya has a marvellous geological landscape.
Akseløya is geology. The island’s upturned strata run beneath the sea and
straight up the neighbouring mountain faces – a geometric delight. Our walk took
us north along the exposed strata, before returning down the east coast to the
little landing beach. Some of our regulars joined us this afternoon: reindeer,
terns, great and Arctic skuas, and purple sandpipers. Even an Atlantic puffin has
escorted our boats to the landing. The warm weather continued and we worked
up a good sweat on this hike (perhaps exacerbated by the intense dispute
between the Canadian and Danish factions over the sovereignty of a tiny
Canadian island, Hansø).

Returning to the ship the light had changed and the mountainside glowed
different shades of green. Anchored near our ship was the two-masted schooner
Noorderlicht (1910), and both Troels and Christopher popped over for a brief
hello with some of their colleagues. But minutes later, the Molchanov began
sailing for Longyearbyen. With the sun sparkling off of the snow-capped peaks of
Spitsbergen’s west coast, we understood why Willem Barentsz, the discoverer of
these lands in 1596, referred to them as spitsbergen, or ‘pointed peaks.’
Gemma’s lecture ‘How to Pay Your Ship Account’ was well-received by all. Prior
to dinner we joined Troels and the staff in the bar for our final recap, where we
also received our disembarkation briefing, and this trip log…Our farewell dinner
rounded out the day, and gave Troels a chance to formally introduce Richie, Lee,
and the two Anastasias. As for you - you have been such an enthusiastic and
interesting troupe. Our weather was phenomenal, and our wildlife encounters
unsurpassable. It has been a pleasure to share this voyage with you all.

TOTAL DISTANCE TRAVELLED 1122 Nautical miles

1291 Statute miles
2078 Kilometers
NORTHERNMOST LATITUDE 80023’N

On behalf of Oceanwide Expeditions, the staff would like to say how

wonderful it was having you aboard. We are looking forward to welcoming
you aboard again – north or south – in the not too distant future.
Hello, history fans! This is a very succinct bibliography for those of you wishing
to read further on the exploits of the northernmost explorers. Cartographic
enthusiasts will take delight in Derek Hayes’ An Historical Atlas of the Arctic
(2003). From the works of Claudius Ptolemaeus, to August Petermann’s
whimsical ‘Open Polar Sea,’ to the latest satellite imagery, this book is an
excellent resource. In addition to covering ‘farthest north’ records, entire
sections are devoted to the Northwest and Northeast Passages, and to the
Russian explorers. A must read.

Fergus Fleming’s Ninety Degrees North (2001) covers most of the better
documented expeditions that attempted to reach the North Pole. Well-written
and informative, it focuses on some of the most dramatic expeditions ever
undertaken. Not for the faint hearted.

Those of you seeking information on the indigenous peoples of the Arctic can
begin with Robert McGhee’s Ancient People of the Arctic (1996). Ever heard
of the Independence I people? What about Dorset culture? For anyone who
thought that today’s Inuit are the same people that occupied the Arctic regions of
North America and Greenland millennia ago…this book is for you.

There are also several good journals (e.g. Arctic) devoted to the Arctic in
general, but which also contain historical articles from time to time. Virtually all
European and North American expeditions to the Arctic from the 1840s onward
have separate works devoted to them -- check out the Polar section of your local
library or bookstore. The web, of course, can be very helpful, so long as you
remember that about 30% of the information you come across will be spurious.
Enjoy!
 Birds Svalbard
ENGLSIH NORWEGIAN LATIN GERMAN FRENCH DUTCH
Arctic skua Tyvjo Stercorarius Schmarotzer- Labbe parasite Kleine jager
parasiticus raubmöwe
Arctic Tern Rødnebbterne Plants Svalbard
Sterna paradisaea Küstenseeschwalbe Sterne arctique Noordse stern
ENGLISH
Barnacle Goose NORWEGIAN
Hvitkinngås LATIN
Branta leucopsis GERMAN
Weisswangengans FRENCHnonnette
Bernache DUTCH
Brandgans
Black Guillemot
Svalbard Poppy Teist
Svalbardvalmue Cepphus grylle
Papaver dahlianum Gryllteiste
Svalbard-Mohn Guillemot
Pavot de áSvalbard
miroir Zwarte zeekoet
Spitsbergen papaver
Alpine Saxifrage Snøsildre Saxifraga nivalis Schnee-Steinbrech blanc
Saxifrage spec.
Brunich’s
Bog Guillemot
Saxifrage Polarlomvi
Myrsildre Uria lomviahirculus
Saxifraga Dickschnabellumme
Moor-Steinbrech Guillemot
Saxifragede brunnich
spec. Dikbekzeekoet
Bokjes steenbreek
Commen Eider Ærfulg Somateria mollissima Eiderente Eider common Eider eend
Brook Saxifrage Bekkesildre Saxifraga rivularis Bach-Steinbrech Saxifrage spec. Beek steenbreek
Common Guillemot Lomvi Uria aalge Trottellumme Guillemot de treol Zeekoet
Drooping Knoppsildre Saxigraga cernua Nickende Steinbrech Saxifrage penchée Hangende
Fulmar Havhest Fulmarus glacialis Eissturmvogel Petrel fulmar Noordse stormvogel
Saxifrage
Glaucous gull Polarmåke Larus hyperboreus Eismöwe Goéland bourgmestre
steenbreek
Grote burgemeester
Purple Saxifrage
Great black-backed Røsildre
Svartbak Saxifraga
Larus marinus Roter Steinbrech
Mantelmöwe Saxifrage
Goéland a feuilles
marin Zuiltjes
Grote Steenbreek
mantelmeeuw
Gull oppositifolia opposées
Tufted Saxifrage
Great skua Tuesildre
Storjo Saxifraga cespitosa
Stercorarius skua Rasen-Steinbrech
Skua Saxifrage
Grande spec.
lappe Steenbrekk
Grote jager
Grey Phalarope
Arctic Chickweed Polarsvømmesnipe
Ishavsstjerneblomst Phalaropus
Stellaria fulicarius
humifusa Thorshühnchen
Artische Sternmiere Phalarope á bec large Rosse franjepoot
Ivory Gull
Arctic Mouse-ear Ismåke
Snøarve Pagophila eburnea
Cerastium arcticum Elfenbeinmöwe
Arktisches Mouette
Céraisteivoire
spec. Ivoor meeuw
Kittiwake Krykkje Rissa tridactyla Dreizehenmöwe
Hornkraut Mouette tridactyle Drieteenmeeuw
Long-tailed duck
Knotweed Havelle
Harerug Clangula
Polygonum hyemalis Eisente
Knöllchen-Knöterich Harelde
Renouée boréal
vivipare Ilseend
Levendbarende
Little Auk Alkekonge Alle alle Krabbentaucher Mergule nain Kleine alk
viviparum Duizendknoop
Pink-footed Goose Kortnebbgås Anser brachyrhynchus Kurtzschnabelgans Oie á bec court Kleine rietgans
Cushioned Puccinellia Arktischer
Pomarine skua Polarjo Stercorarius Spatelraubmøve Labbe pomarin Middelste jager
Saltmarshrass phryganodes
pomarinus Salzschwaden
Cinquefoil
Puffin Lundefugl Potentilla spec.
Fratercula arctica Fingerkraut
Papageitaucher Potentillemoine
Macareux spec. Vingerkruit
Papegaai duiker
Woolly Lousewort
Purple Sandpiper Ullmyrklegg
Fjæreplytt Pedicularis
Calidris maritima Wolliges Läusekraut
Meerstrandläufer Pédiculaire spec.
Bécasseau violet Kartelblad
Paarse strandloper
Red-throated diver Smålom dasyantha
Gavia stellata Sterntaucher Plongeon catmarin Roodkeel duiker
Hairy
Snow Lousewort
Bunting Lodnemyrklegg
Snøspurv Pedicularis
Plectrophenaxhirsuta
nivalis Behaartes
Schneeammer Pédiculaire
Bruant spec.
des neiges Kartelblad
Snneuwgors
SEA- SVALBARD
Läusekraut
AND LANDMAMMALS
Spider Plant
ENGLISH NORWEGIAN LATIN Saxifraga flagellarisFaden-Steinbrech
GERMAN .
FRENCH DUTCH
Pygmy Buttercup
Arctic Fox Dvergsoleie
Polarrev AlopexRanunculus
lagopus Zwerg-Hahnenfuss
Polar fuchs Rnoncule
Renard nain
arctique Dwerg boterbloem
Poolvos
Bearded Seal Storkobbe Erignathus barbatus
pygmaeus Bartrobbe Phoque barbu Baardrob
Bowhead
Moss Whale
Campion Grønlandshval
Fjellsmelle Balaena mysticetus
Silene acaulis Grönlandwal
Stengelloses Baleine di Groenland
Silene spec. Groenlandse
Stengelloze walvis
silene
Fin Whale Finnhval Balaenoptera physalus Finnwal
Leimkraut Gewone vinvis
Harp Seal
Mountain Avens Grønlandssel
Reinrose Pagophilus
Dryas groenlandicus
octopetala Sattelrobbe
Silberwurz Phoque
Dryadedu Groenland Zadelrob
Zilverwortel
Minke Whale Vågehval Balaenoptera acutorostrata Zwergwal Petit rorqual Dwergvinvis
Mountain Sorrel Fjellsyre Oxyria digyna Alpen-Säuerling Oxyria Bergzuring
Polar Bear Isbjørn Ursus maritimus Eisbär Ours blanc Ijsbeer
Polar Cress Polarkarse Cardamine nymanii Polar-Schaumkraut Cardamine spec.
Ringed Seal Ringsel Phoca hispida Ringelrobbe Phoque marbré Ringelrob
Polar Scurvy-
Svalbard Skjørbuksurt
Svalbardrein Cochlearia
Rangifer tarandus ifficinalis Gebräuchliches
Svalbard Renntier Renne du Spitzbergen Lepelblad
Rendier
grass
Reindeer platyrhynchus Löffelkraut
Polar Willow
Walrus Polarvier
Hvalros Salixrosmarus
Odobenus polaris Polarweide
Walross Saule Polaire
Morse Poolwilg
Walrus
Whitlow-grasses Rublom Draba spec. Felsenblümchen Draves
Species list compiled by Dr. Parissa Yazdi
E-mail list - for private use only
CABIN NAME E-MAIL
311 Anne Holvast anne.holvast@gmail.com
311 Marcel Nieuwenhuis nieuwenhuis19@hotmail.com
312 Svetlana Griu perzikpoes@yahoo.com
313 Sarah Anne Gillman salgill2000@yahoo.com
313 Arthur Gillman JohnGillman@PSPLaw.co.uk
313 Rosemary Gillman lgybrjg@nottingham.ac.uk
314 Ursula Gruetter gruetter-weikmann@cex.ch
314 Lucretia Jose Woerde L.jwoerde@freeler.nl
315 Susan Margaret Kramer sue_kramer@hotmail.com
315 Carole Jane Nicholls carole.nicholls@mkl.co.uk
321 Barnaby Davies barn_d@hotmail.com
322 Sabine Maria Goldhahn sabine.goldhahn@aofoundation.org
322 Joerg Goldhahn goj@kws.ch
326 Vanessa Ranzato irrilevante@gmail.com
327 Timothy Clackson bcntim@hotmail.com
327 Justin Clackson jclackson@gmail.com
331 Norbert Boss norbert.boss@orange.fr
331 RobTully robtully2003@yahoo.co.uk
332 Ann Clackson clackson@aol.com
bosuil2@hetnet.nl
413 Elisabeth Catharina Brons (EMAIL ADDRESS OF SON)
415 Roberto Cravarezza roberto.cravarezza@federalmogul.com
420 Kees De Waal
keesdewaal@gmail.com
420 Sue De Waal
421 Marius De Koff
mariusenannemiek@planet.nl
421 Annemiek Zanders
425 Thomas MacDonald
tom-cecelia@att.net
425 Cecelia Conlan
426 Yvette Marian Knaap
wilco.yvette@casema.nl
426 Willem Simons
505 Engele Aalmers (Eddy)
eddyaalmers@planet.nl
505 Anna Lansink (Mieke)
509 Lynn Pearson lynn.pearson@rexam.com
509 Cynthia Gialanella cgialanella@hotmail.com
510 Maurice Charles Henry charles.henry@btopenworld.com
510 Jennifer Henry jen.owl@btinternet.com
513 Jonathan Peberdy jonathan.peberdy@rbs.com
513 Michelle Louise Roarty jonandmichelle@blueyonder.co.uk
517 Pieter De Jong
marthaenpiet@planet.nl
517 Martha De Jong
518 Bill Bruce
wmbruce@norway.online.no
518 Maureen Bruce
521 Alessandro Corbari alessandro.corbari@fastwebnet.it
521 Elena Luisa Ghirardi elena.ghirardi@fastwebnet.it
Hospital Ilse Bruinsel ibruinsel@hotmail.com
Hospital Dilia Leitner dilialeitner@gmail.com
Gemma Heaney sowhat.itsred@gmail.com
Troels Jacobsen www.polarimages.dk
Christopher Gilbert gilbertcj@hotmail.com
Parissa Yazdi parissayazdi@yahoo.de