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© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Contents
Before you begin: Health, Safety and Best Practice 4
Essential Oil Safety Advice 5
Nourishing Whipped Shea Body Butter 6
Lemongrass Shower Scrub Bar 7
Bath Truffles 9
Rejuventaing Facial Serums 10
Making Creams & Lotions 12
Ylang Ylang & Frankincense Face Cream 14
Geranium & Bergamot Facial Lotion 15
Ingredients Glossary 16
Suppliers 18
About the School of Natural Skincare

Please note: the School of Natural Skincare, has taken all reasonable care in sourcing and
presenting accurate information but no responsibility is accepted for any inaccuracies or
mistakes in the information, or loss or damage that may result from its use.

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Thanks so much for downloading this free recipe book which has been enjoyed by
thousands of natural beauty lovers worldwide!

We have trained students around the world to create their own beautiful natural
skincare products, both for themselves and to start a successful natural beauty
business of their own.

We’re delighted that you are taking the first step to creating your own gorgeous
products too!

Enjoy!
Gail and Gareth xxx
Directors, School of Natural Skincare

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Before you begin:


Health, Safety and Best Practice
•Always sterilise equipment and containers before use. You can use 70% IPA
(rubbing alcohol), a sterilising system such as Milton or put them through the
dishwasher and then in a cool oven (140C for 20 minutes. Don’t put plastic
in an oven!) Ensure everything is dry before using.

•Maintain a high level of personal hygiene. Wash hands or wear gloves


before starting and ensure all work surfaces are clean and disinfected.

•For the greatest accuracy weigh all of your ingredients in grams using digital
scales.

•Any product containing water will deteriorate quickly. When making products
that contain water you need to use a broad spectrum preservative from
specialist skincare suppliers. Vitamin E and Grapefruit seed extract are
not preservatives.

• Anhydrous products (products that don’t contain water) such as serums,


balms, and body butters will have a shelf life of around 6 months and there is
no need to add a preservative.

•Always apply products with a clean finger or spatula to avoid contamination.

•Keep oil based products - oils, balms, body butters - and dry products away
from water.

•Natural cosmetics made without preservatives can become contaminated so


get rid of any product if it starts to look or smell different.

•Always carry out a patch test before using a product to check for allergies.
Apply a little to the inside of your elbow and wait 24 hours to check for any
reaction.

•Don’t forget to label your products! Include the date you made them.

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Essential Oil Safety Advice


Essential oils should never be applied directly to the skin. They should always
be diluted before use and used at concentrations of 2% (or less for some
oils). 2 drops of essential oil per 5ml base oil = 2%. Essential oils are highly
concentrated and effective in small amounts – less is more! For facial
skincare a 1% dilution is usually enough. This equals 1 drop in 5ml carrier
solution.

Many oils are not suitable for use whilst pregnant, with certain medical
conditions or on children. Always check safety information (contraindications)
for individual oils before use. You can find this in the last section of this recipe
book under Essential Oil Profiles and also by checking this handy guide here.

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Nourishing Whipped Shea Body Butter


This is simple to make, very nourishing for the skin and a little goes a long
way! It’s 100% natural as as it is anhydrous (doesn’t contain water) there is
no need to add preservatives. Shea Butter is a wonderful emollient and
moisturiser, containing high amounts of vitamin E, an antioxidant. It’s very
soothing and protecting and helps to heal cracked, aged and damaged skin.
Known as ‘Women’s Gold’ it is used by women in Africa for cooking,
soapmaking, skin and hair care.

Basic Recipe
(Makes approx 100g)

70g shea butter


30g organic cold pressed
sunflower oil (or a combination of
any of these oils: avocado jojoba,
sweet almond, sunflower)
25-30 drops essential oil

Essential Oil Options:

Skin Soother: 20 drops lavender


essential oil and 6 drops
chamomile essential oil
Floral: 20 drops geranium
essential oil and 10 drops
lavender essential oil
Fresh: 20 drops lemongrass essential oil and 10 drops lavender essential oil
Sensual: 10 drops ylang ylang essential oil and 15 drops lavender essential
oil

How to make

Soften the shea butter gently in a bain-marie and add the sunflower oil (or
vegetable/nut oil of your choice). The shea butter doesn’t need to be
completely melted. Take off the heat, allow to cool a little and whisk with a
handheld electric whisk for 10 seconds. Allow to cool a bit more (you can
place the bowl in the freezer to speed the process up) and then whisk again
for another 10 seconds. Add the essential oils and continue the process of

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cooling and whisking until the mixture reaches a creamy consistency. Put into
pots using a spoon or piping bag.

This is a basic body butter recipe and can be varied by using different base
oils and essential oils. You can also vary consistency of the body butter -
make a firmer body butter by using 80g shea butter and 20g carrier oil or 90g
shea butter and 10g carrier oil. For a light, silky body butter try the recipe
above but replacing 20g of the shea butter with 20g cold pressed organic
coconut oil (the solid version). Beautiful Bodycare Recipes

Shelf life: 6 months

Lemongrass Shower Scrub Bar


LUSH were probably the first people to start selling shower scrub bars. Solid
bars full of wonderful shea butter and
cocoa butter that moisturise and
exfoliate all at once. Take one in the
shower and emerge with glowing silky
soft skin!

The great thing is you can easily


recreate these gorgeous shower scrub
bars at home with just a few
ingredients! Here is our recipe for an
uplifting shower scrub bar made with
cocoa butter and shea butter to
moisturize, epsom salts to exfoliate
and lemongrass essential oil to refresh
and uplift (plus its great for boosting
circulation too).

You will need:


55g cocoa butter
15g shea butter
15g vegetable oil of your choice (sunflower, peach kernel, fractionated
coconut oil etc)
14g beeswax

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1g (approx 20 drops) Lemongrass essential oil (or essential oil of your


choice)
100g coarse sea salt or epsom salt
(you could replace this with sugar if
you wish)
Silicone ice cube tray

How to make

1. Weigh the butters, wax and


vegetable oil.
2. Melt together gently in a bain
marie (also known as a water bath
or double boiler).
3. Once melted remove from the
heat. Mix together with salt and essential oil and spoon into a silicone ice
cube.
4. Place the ice cube tray in the fridge or freezer and allow the bars to set.

To use
Take one into the shower and
gently rub onto the body in
circular motions and rinse off.
Emerge with silky soft skin!

*Important* As they don’t contain


a preservative these shower
scrub bars are for single use
only. Thats why it’s good to
make them in an ice cube tray,
then they are the perfect size for
one use. Store them in a dry
place.

Shelf life: 6 months

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Bath Truffles
Adapt this using essential oils, colours
and petals as you wish

180g bicarbonate of soda


60g citric acid
20g cocoa butter
20 drops of essential oil (optional)

How to make bath truffles

1)Melt the cocoa butter gently over a bain-


marie. Allow to cool slightly.

2) Mix all the dry ingredients together. You


may wish to put them through a sieve to
make sure there are no lumps. Add your
drops of essential oil and mix in well.
Add colours too if you wish.

3)Slowly drizzle the melted butter in a little at a time, and mix well. You want
the mixture to stick together when you squeeze it.

4)Pack firmly into a mould - silicone moulds, ice cube trays or cake cases
work well. You can add a few flower petals to the bottom the mould so that
when you turn them out the petals are on the top of the bath creamer/
truffle. Alternatively, if you are using cake cases you can place a rose bud
or other petals onto the top.

5)Put in the fridge and allow to harden (about 1.5 hrs)

6)To use - run a warm bath and pop one in just before you get in. Relax and
enjoy!

Shelf life: 6 months

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Rejuvenating Facial Serums


Facial oils and serums have become hugely popular and the top brands
charge a hefty price for them. The good news is they are super simple &
affordable to make and really effective too.

They are used to moisturise, smooth and soften skin and as they contain
purely oils are concentrated products. A little will go a long way!

Facial serums are the simplest kind of facial treatment to make and really
nourishing and rejuvenating for the skin. These anhydrous serums are 100%
natural and can easily be made 100% organic too if you choose organic
carrier and essential oils.

You can design your own custom serum


by choosing carrier oils and essential oils
that suit your skin type and preferences.
The nut and vegetable oils below contain
a variety of vitamins and fatty acids and
each have their own properties -
soothing, anti-inflammatory, regenerating,
nourishing, balancing. See the Ingredient
Glossary for more information.

You will need:

A 20ml pipette bottle (or similar)


Your choice of carrier oils ( jojoba,
macadamia, rosehip and olive squalane
are good choices)
Your choice of essential oils (we love
frankincense, lavender and geranium)

Use a maximum of 2 drops of essential oil per 5ml carrier oil, always check
the safety info and patch test first!

You can use just one or a blend of carrier oils. Similarly you can use just one
or a blend of essential oils. Keep it simple and use just a few ingredients to
begin with or mix and blend to your hearts content. Massage a few drops into
your skin, it will quickly absorb leaving you with beautiful, healthy complexion.

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Rejuvenating Facial Serum

Suitable for all skin types and is a wonderful balancing, healing and
rejuvenating blend. This contains two rejuvenating oils – rosehip and
frankincense and two balancing oils – jojoba and geranium.

10ml jojoba oil, macadamia oil or olive squalane


10ml rosehip oil
4 drops frankincense essential oil
2 drops lavender essential oil
2 drops geranium essential oil

Anti-aging Facial Serum

A wonderful blend of the best regenerating and rejuvenating oils.

5ml rosehip oil


5ml macadamia oil
10ml olive squalane
4 drops frankincense essential oils
4 drops lavender essential oil

If you wish to splash out on more expensive carrier oils you could try
Raspberry Seed Oil or Pomegranate Oil - both excellent anti-aging oils.

Shelf life: 3 - 6 months depending of the shelf life of the oils you choose.
To extend the shelf life further you can add Vitamin E at 0.5-1%

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Making Creams & Lotions


Creams and lotions are emulsions - a combination of water and oil. Oil and
water do not naturally mix together, therefore in order to make a cream or
lotion which is a blend of oil and water an emulsifier is needed.

Emulsifying wax is the most common emulsifying agent used to make


creams and lotions; it binds the oil phase and water phase of an emulsion
together. Emulsifying waxes contain a hydrophillic element (water loving) and
lipophilic element (oil loving). This means they are attractive to both oil and
water which allows them to bind the two together in a stable mixture.

As creams and lotions contain water you must also use a broad spectrum
preservative bought from a specialist skincare supplier. The preservative we
use is Preservative Eco from Aromantic (UK), sold as Geogard ECT in the
USA, as it is permitted in Ecocert certified Organic Products. Please note
that beeswax is not an emulsifying wax and grapefruit seed extract is
not a preservative. These are common misconceptions!

There are three steps to creating a successful emulsion:

1) Chemical emulsion - Finding an emulsifying wax that is easy to work with


is the first step to creating a stable emulsion. It’s important to make sure you
use a complete or all-in-one emulsifier. This means that it is a complete
emulisfication system and does not require anything else to emulsify your
product.

Emulsifying Wax NF, Polawax,


and Emulsifying Wax BP are all-
in-one emulsifiers, they are easy
to use and produce reliable
results. BTMS-50 is a good
option for more oily skin types as
it gives a powdery feeling on the
skin. Gracefruit (UK),
Lotioncrafter (USA) and The
Herbarie (USA) are good
suppliers for emulsifying wax.
You may need to try a few until
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you find one that you like.

2) Heat emulsification - When making emulsions we have to heat our


ingredients up to a certain temperature for them to emulsify together properly.
Both the oil phase and water phase need to be heated to the same
temperature before combining them. This is usually 70℃ . Holding the
phases at this temperature for 20 minutes before combing will create a more
stable emulsion.

3) Mechanical emulsification - We need to blend our oil and water phases


together thoroughly using a whisk or stick blender to ensure they emulsify
together properly.

How to make creams and lotions using the Heat and


Hold method
1. Place the oil phase ingredients in a bain marie (water bath/ double boiler)
and allow ingredients to melt. Bring the temperature up to 70℃.

2. Place the water phase ingredients


in a second bain marie (water bath/
double boiler), add 10% extra water to
allow for evaporation and allow
ingredients to melt. Bring the
temperature up to 70℃

3. Hold both the oil and water phase at


70℃ for 20 minutes.

4. Add the water phase to the oil


phase mixing at the same time. A stick
blender is useful. Be careful not to
introduce too many air bubbles. Keep mixing for a couple of minutes.

5. Remove from the heat to allow the cream to cool. Continue to mix. You can
place the cream over a bowl of cold water to speed up the cooling process.
As it cools it will start to thicken. Add the Preservative and other cooling
phase ingredients and mix well.

6. Pour into your containers. This should keep for 12 months.


© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
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Ylang Ylang & Frankincense Face Cream


This is a nourishing face cream and quite straightforward to make. You can
adapt this recipe by changing the type of base oils and essential oils that you
use as long as the quantities remain the same.

This cream is packed full of skin


regenerating and rejuvenating
ingredients. Wonderful for dry,
normal or mature skin. Avocado
is rich in vitamin E, healing and
nourishing, encourages skin cell
regeneration and has a
wonderful soft, silky feel on the
skin. Rosehip Oil is the best
known regenerating and
rejuvenating oil. Frankincense is
one of the most important oils for
aging skin as it is cytophylactic which means it regenerates skin cells. Ylang
Ylang balances sebum and has a blissful aroma.

Oil phase
6g emulsifying wax
3g cetyl alcohol
5g avocado oil (for dry skin) or 5ml jojoba (for normal skin)
10g macadamia oil
5g rosehip oil

Water phase
66g distilled or deionized water
2.5g glycerine

Cooling phase
0.5g Vitamin E Oil
0.5g (approx 10 drops) ylang ylang essential oil
0.5g (approx 10 drops) frankincense essential oil
1g (approx 20 drops) Preservative Eco (or preservative of your choice used
as per manufacturers instructions)

Follow the directions above for how to make a cream.

Shelf life: 6-12 months


© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com
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Geranium & Bergamot Facial Lotion


This is a wonderful light daily moisturising lotion for normal - oily skin. It’s light
and fresh and the hazelnut oil, jojoba oil and geranium essential oil all help to
balance sebum production. Bergamot is a fresh, uplifting and antiseptic oil
which is great for oily skin.

Oil phase
4g emulsifying wax
2g cetyl alcohol
6g jojoba oil
6g hazelnut oil

Water Phase
78g distilled or deionized water
2g glycerine

Cooling phase
1g (approx 20 drops) Preservative
Eco (or as manufacturers
instructions)
1g (approx 20 drops) essential oil:
8 drops of geranium essential oil
12 drops bergamot FCF essential oil

Follow the directions above for how to make a cream.

Shelf life: 6-12 months

© Goodness & Wonder Ltd 2015. All rights reserved. www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com


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Ingredient Glossary

Vegetable / Carrier Oils

Avocado oil A rich, long lasting and well absorbed oil. Nourishing, rich in
vitamins especially E and D. Encourages skin cell regeneration therefore
great for ageing skin. Softening and prevents water loss.

Hazelnut Oil High in vitamins A, B and rich in Vitamin E. Nourishing,


softening, soothing for the skin and good for preventing dehydration. Slightly
astringent so good for oily skin types, & acne, Easily and quickly absorbed by
the skin and does not leave it feeling greasy.

Jojoba Oil Balancing, softening, soothing. Balances sebum production so


great for oily skin, acne or dry skin. Anti-inflammatory, may be used to treat
eczema and psoriasis. Light and well absorbed.

Macadamia Nut Oil Emollient, rejuvenating, easily absorbed. A beautiful light


facial oil. Excellent for anti-aging and anti-wrinkle blends due to high content
of palmitic acid which slows the ageing process. Also rich in Oleic acid which
assists with skin cell regeneration and is softening, smoothing and
moisturising.

Rosehip Oil Regenerating, rejuvenating and healing. A light, non greasy oil
that is quickly absorbed. Rosehip seed oil contains tretinoin (a form of vitamin
A) which helps to repair damaged skin, acne, and reduce wrinkles and scars.
One of the best oils for mature skin, it is a good source of essential fatty
acids (Omega 3 and 6) which assist with skin regeneration. Rich in Linolenic
acid which helps with UV damage, fine lines and wrinkles and Vitamin C and
Beta carotene both of which are antioxidants. A truly wonderful oil for facial
serums and effective in small amounts (as little as 10% of your product).
Trilogy’s Rosehip Oil is their best selling product, with rave reviews from the
beauty industry. Make your own for a huge amount less!

Squalane (Olive Squalane) A much better, natural alternative to the silicones


often used in commercial serums, squalane glides onto the skin and doesn’t
feel oily at all. Squalane softens the skin, improves elasticity, reduces signs of
aging, and boosts cell regeneration. Squalane is produced naturally by your
skin until your mid 20s and helps to moisturise and protect it. After your mid
20s its really useful to use olive squalane as is very similar in structure to the
natural one produced by the skin and is therefore absorbed really well. It’s
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lighter than an oil and leaves the skin silky and smooth.

Essential Oils

Bergamot An excellent skincare oil. Promotes healthy skin growth,


regenerates skin cells, promotes healing by the formation of scar tissue,
heals wounds, cuts, sores. Uplifting, antidepressant and useful for treating
emotional conditions which may be at the root cause of eczema.

Frankincense Famous for its skin preserving and regenerating qualities. A


cytophylatic oil which means it aids the process of skin cell regeneration.
Tonifying and rejuvenating, its one of the most important oils for improving
skin tone and treating ageing skin as well as reducing scar tissue. Neal’s Yard
Frankincense range contains some of their best selling products. You can
enjoy the amazing benefits of Frankincense by using the essential oil in your
own products at a fraction of the cost. Best to avoid in first trimester of
pregnancy.

Geranium an extremely valuable oil for skin care because of its antiseptic,
astringent, balancing and cicatrisant qualities which make it effective for the
treatment of oily, greasy, congested, acne prone skin and eczema. A
wonderful balancing oil it works to balance production of sebum (the skins
natural oil) making it suitable for dry or oily skin. It has wonderful skin
repairing and preserving qualities with the additional benefit of the
wonderfully floral and sweet aroma. Do not use in pregnancy.

Lavender Wonderful for all skin types and great for mature skin as it has
powerful skin preserving qualities (cicatrisant) and is a wonderful aid in the
process to regenerate cells (cytophylactic). The soothing and anti-
inflammatory action of lavender oil will also have a balancing action on the
skin and can be used for dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, and acne. Helps the
skin heal faster and with less scarring. Avoid in first trimester of pregnancy.

Ylang Ylang Sensuous and calming. Useful for treating anxiety, depression,
stress and tension. Aphrodisiac, exotic and luxurious fragrance. Balances
secretion of sebum so useful for both dry and oily skins and may be used to
treat acne and problem skins. Use in moderation. Heady aroma can cause
headaches or nausea.

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Recommended Suppliers
A list of recommended suppliers in the UK, USA and Australia can be found
here:
http://www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com/recipes-info/recommended-
suppliers/

About the School of Natural Skincare


We are the world’s premier natural skincare school helping you create
high performance natural and organic beauty products, for yourself or
to launch a successful business.

Led by Cosmetic Formulator, Gail Francombe and Aromatherapist, Gareth


Despres, the school is dedicated to helping you ditch chemical & synthetically
laden products and instead have the knowledge and confidence to make your
own beautiful, effective natural skincare products.

The School’s team of expert tutors include Cosmetic Chemists, Cosmetic


Formulators, Aromatherapists, Beauty Business and Marketing Professionals
and Niche Beauty Brand owners all passionate about helping you create
beautiful products and thriving businesses.

Through their fun, multi-media online classes the School has trained well over
1000+ students in 30+ countries.

The School’s fabulous recipes and fun, creative classes have been featured
by the BBC and glossy magazines like Green Parent, Spirit & Destiny and
Country Homes and Interiors Magazine.

Find more recipes or join a training course with us here:

www.schoolofnaturalskincare.com

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