ASSEMBLY

INSTRU TION
MANUAL .
FOR PRO 10 SPORT

Pictured with optional bumper & side wing.

TO BE USED WITH
STEP-BY-STEP
PICTORIAL
REFERENCE
•

THEPR0 -10
1988 ROAR NATIONAL
CHAMPION I
Congratulations! You have now joined
the wonderful world of RIC racing. Many hours of
fun are ahead of you. The PR0-1 0 SPORT you
have purchased is based on the national winning
design of the PR0-10 ELITE, one of the top 1110th
scale T-bar oval and on road cars in the world.
Two of the most successful radio controlled car
manufacturers in the world,Compositecraft and
TRC have joined forces and have introduced an
entry level racing machine at an entry level price
without sacrificing race performance. The PR0-
10 SPORT can take you from the beginning all
the way to the top.
As your skill level increases, the PR0-1 0
SPORT can be up-dated to improved perform-
ance and will be ready to handle anything you can
give it.
The PR0-1 0 series of cars are still the
most simple cars to build and maintain on the
circuit. Precision molded and machined compo-
nents make the PR0-10 SPORT a snap to put
together, but you still need to read and follow the
instructions. They will give you tips in the assem-
bly process that will help you when it is time to
race.
TAKE YOUR TIME I How careful you
assemble the car now is going to determine how
well it performs on the track. Don't be in a hurry.
You won't win anything for the fastest chassis
assembly.
••••••••••••••••••••••
• ASSEMBL Y TIPS FROM • Items required to
•• THE FACTORY
••
•• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • ••
Before you get started, here are some
suggestions and tips that will make the assembly
of your kit a little easier.
Glance through the instructions and
pictures once before you start to assemble the kit.
This will help get you familiarized with the
assembly steps and the pictures.
2
To help eliminate confusion, only open the
parts bags when they are called for in the instruc-
tions. Otherwise you might mix up small parts
which will make the assembly much more difficult.
When you empty the parts bags, use a
paper plate or a small container to empty it in. This
will keep parts from rolling off the table and being
lost forever.
When you are putting screws into plastic
pieces, be sure that you do not over tighten them.
This could result in the threads in the plastic strip-
ping. Tighten the screws until they are snug.
Check all the holes in the nylon pieces.
Some of the holes are not tapped. You should tap
these holes with the correct size tap before putting
a screw in the piece.
All molded nylon pieces will have a small
amount of flashing. Before you assemble these
pieces it is a good idea to remove it with a hobby
knife.
In the instructions, certain parts are
referred to as left and right. Imagine yourself sit-
ting in a full size car in the driver's seat. The
driver's side is what will be referred to as the le ft
side. The passenger side will be referred to as the
right side. Please keep this in mind while you are
assembling your car.
The step numbers in this manual corre-
spond to the pictures in the pictorial assembly
manual. Use both for the assembly of this kit.
Due to COMPOSITECRAFT & TRC's
on-going development program, certain parts in
the pictorial assembly manual may be different
from the actual parts in the kit.
/
c omplete this car
1 - Two channel radio system
1 - Speed control device
1 - 6 or 7 cell battery pack - saddle type
1 - 05 electric motor
1 - 111Oth scale body ( if not included)
1 - Servo saver
1 - Battery charging system
'
 / #5502 4-40 X 114" STEEL FLATHEAD SCREW................... 1
Tools and supplies needed #5514 5-40 X 114" STEEL SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW ... 4
8-32 X 318" STEEL SOCKET HEAD SCREWS ......... 2
to build this kit 15523 8-32 X 112" ALUMINUM FLATHEAD SCREWS ........4
#5574 118" X 114" STEEL WASHER ..................................... 1
#2 phillips screw driver - large I Hobby knife
Small pliers I Needle nose pliers I Medium file
Shock oil I 20 - 25 Weight 1 Silicone lube
_/
( sAG# 3 FOR PRO -10 SPORT )
'
/ "'\
OPTIONAL TOOLS #5314 MOLDED NYLON T-BAR SUPPORT PLATE ............ 1
#5334 REAR DAMPENER KIT ............................................. 1
Nut driver set I Dremel Tool ANTENNA MOUNT.................................................... 1
4-40 tap, 8-32 tap 15426 4" NYLON BODY POSTS .......................................... 2
_/ BODY POST COLLARS ............................................ 2
#5428
#5523 8-32 X 112" ALUMINUM FLATHEAD SCREW ........... 1
••••••••••••••••• #5340 REAR SUSPENSION SPRINGS ............................... 2
:PRO -10 SPORT : #5342 NYLON SPRING LOCATORS ................................... 2
: KIT CONTENTS : 4-40 X 114" STEEL FLATHEAD SCREW................... 1
#5510 4-40 X 1" STEEL FLATHEAD SCREW ...................... 2
••••••••••••••••• #5540 4·40 X 118" STEEL SET SCREW .............................. 2
#5553 4-40 STEEL LOCK NUT ............................................ 2
( sAG# 1 FOR PR0-10 SPORT ) #5512 5-40 X 318" STEEL FLATHEAD SCREWS ................ 4

15138 MOLDED NYLON FRONT CROSS BAR ................... 1 (_sAG# 4 FOR PR0-10 SPORT )
#5562 1116" ALLEN WRENCH ............................................. 1
15140 KING PINS FOR NYLON FRONT CROSS BAR ....... 2
15142 2 DEGREE CASTER SHIMS ..................................... 2
#676 120 TOOTH SPUR GEAR ......................................... 1
15144 118" STEERING BLOCKS .......................................... 2
#5558 8-32 NYLON LOCK NUT ........................................... 1
15156 .022 FRONT SUSPENSION SPRINGS ..................... 2
114" X .060 STEEL WASHER .................................... 2
#5663 STEEL DIFF AXLE .................................................... 1
4-40 X 114" STEEL FLATHEAD SCREWS ................ 2
#5667 MOLDED NYLON DIFF HUB ..................................... 1
#5502
8-32 X 112" ALUMINUM FLATHEAD SCREWS ......... 2
#5669 MOLDED NYLON WHEEL HUB ................................ 1
#5523
118" X 114" STEEL WASHER ..................................... 2
#5677 THRUST BEARING SET ........................................... 1
#5574
118" X 5116" FLANGED OILITE BUSHINGS ..............4 #5678 CONE WASHER ........................................................ 1
15476
#5566 3/32" ALLEN WRENCH ............................................. 1
15560 1/8" E-CLIP .............................................................. 10
#5685 AXLE SPACER SET .................................................. 1
#5546 10-32 X 114" STEEL SET SCREW ............................ 2
#5674 DIFF DRIVE RINGS ................................................... 2
( sAG# 1A FOR PR0-10 SPORT ) #5690 114" X 318" NYLON DIFF BUSHINGS ........................ 2
#5478 114" X 318" FLANGED OILITE BUSHINGS ................ 2
#5516 5 -40 X 318" STEEL SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW ... 8
#5672 STANDARD DIFF BALLS .......................................... 8
15166 SERVO MOUNTING KIT ........................................... 1
15424 3" MOLDED NYLON BODY POST ............................ 2
15428 BODY POST COLLAR ................................................ 2
#5502 4-40 X 114" STEEL FLATHEAD SCREW................... 2 Check the contents of each bag with the list above.
#5506 4-40 X 112" STEEL FLATHEAD SCREW................... 2 These bags have been checked at the factory, but it is
#5540 4-40 X 118" SET SCREW ........................................... 2 possible that a part may be missing. For missing parts call
15561 .050" STEEL ALLEN WRENCH ................................. 1 704 - 982 - 0507. Make sure you use part numbers when
#5590 STEERING LINKAGE KIT... ....................................... 1 ordering.

(sAG# 2 FOR PR0-10 SPORT ) ONE FINAL NQTE I

Assembly step numbers correspond to the
#5316 SUPPORT PLATE PIVOT BALL & SOCKET SET.. ... 1 picture numbers. Complete each step before going
#5318 FIBERGLASS REAR T-BAR ...................................... 1 on to the next.
115320 TOP MOTOR BLOCK BRACE ................................... 1
#5322 NYLON MOTOR BLOCK SET ................................... 1
#5328 RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTOR SET................................ 1 NOW LET'S GETSTABTED I

3
•
 STEP # 1 We will need to do a slight amount
of chassis prep before we start the assembly.
Locate the chassis, and you will notice that on one
side the holes in the chassis are countersunk for screw
heads. This is the bottom of the chassis. On the top of the
chassis we want to file the battery slots at a slight angle so
the batteries will not be sitting on a sharp corner that could
cut the protective heat shrink on them and cause them to
short out. Lightly file both the front and back of all the
battery slots so the cells will have a flat spot to sit in. Before
you do this, it might be a good idea to spread some newspa-
per out to catch the filings. You will also use strapping tape
to hold the batteries in the chassis. You will need to file the
sections of the chassis that the tape goes around. If these
places are left sharp, they will cut the tape and the batteries
will fall out. Just round off these edges.
When you are finished, wash off the chassis with
water and dry it off with a paper towel. Then make sure you
wash your hands with soap and water. Clean up the dust
and dispose.
You are now finished with step #1. Put a check
mark in the box to show that this step is complete. After
you've completed each step from now on, check off its box
so you know which part of the assembly you are on in case
of an interruption. You won't miss any steps this way.
PR0-10 SPORT FRONT
END ASSEMBLY
STEP# 2 Open bag #1 and empty the
contents. For the time being do not open bag #1A. Locate
the front nylon cross bar. Check over the beam to make sure
all the flashing, if any, is removed around the holes. The
caster on this front end is 0 degrees. This means the king
pins will be straight up and down. You need to run a small
amount of caster in the front end, so locate the two caster
shims. These are molded at 2 degrees each. Fasten the
front beam to the chassis with the caster shims between the
chassis and the front beam. Use an 8-32 x 112" screw in the
front and a 4-40 x 114" screw in the rear of the beam block.
Tighten all screws completely.
STEP# 3 Locate the two front steering
blocks and remove any flashing from around the holes
with a hobby knife.
STEP# 4 Locate the two front king pins. You
will notice that they have a groove in each end. These
grooves are for thee-clips. Put one e-clip on one end of each
king pin.
STEP # 5 Next, put a king pin in the bottom
arm on the front cross bar so it sticks through about 118".
Now slide a steering block on the king pin as shown and
push the king pin up until it reaches the top of the steering
4
block and sticks through about a 1116". There is not a left or
a right on the steering blocks. They are the same. Now put a
spring on the king pin on top of the steering block, then a
thick washer and push the king pin through the top of the
axle beam. Put an e-clip in the top groove to hold the
assembly in place.
STEP# 6 Open bag #1A. Find the front body
posts. Fasten them to the chassis using the 4-40 x 1/2"
screws. Hold the posts with pliers while tightening the screws.
Make sure you do not over tighten the screws and strip out
the threads. Put the body post collars on the posts just
under the last set of hood pin holes and lock in place with the
4-40 x 118" set screws. These will be adjusted later to the
body.
STEP# 7 Put the seNo mounting posts in the
chassis as shown using a 4-40 x 114" screw. For now, put the
seNo mounting face plates on the posts with the #2 X 318"
self tap screws so they do not get lost These will hold the
steering seNo in place later.
PR0-10 SPORT
REAR T-SAR ASSEMBLY
STEP# 8 Open bag #2 and locate the steel
pivot ball and the 114" steel washer. Fasten the pivot ball to
the t-bar in the middle hole with the washer in between the
pivot ball and the t-bar as shown using a 4-40 x 114" screw.
It would be a good idea to lock lite this screw. Do not use
pliers to hold the ball while tightening the screw.
STEP# 9 Find the pivot ball nylon socket.
Using a light oil, coat the inside of the socket that snaps onto
the pivot ball as well as the pivot ball. Snap the pivot socket
onto the pivot ball. Move it around. It will probably be a little
tight. After the car has been run a few times it will loosen up.
STEP# 10 Next, findthetworearmotorblocks.
Fasten them to the rear t-bar using four 8-32 x 112"
aluminum flathead screws. Note: both motor blocks are the
same shape. The only difference is in the holes for the ride
height adjustors. Be sure to put the blocks on the t-bar so
the ride height adjustors will be on the outside of the blocks.
Not on the inside.
STEP# 11 Now find the ride height adjustor
set. You will notice that there are three different offsets in
them. This gives you the option of five different rear axle
heights, depending on how they are placed in the motor
blocks. Most of the racers run the axle in the middle setting,
but you can refer to the section on RIDE HEIGHT SET UP.
When you have chosen the set you are going to use, install
them in the motor blocks as shown. Be sure to trim off any
flashing that might be present around the edges.
 STEP# 12 Next, fasten the motor block brace
to the motor blocks, using four 5-40 x 114" cap screws and
the 8-32 X 318" screws. Put the brace on so that the TRC
logo is facing up and to the rear of the t-bar as shown_
PR0-10 SPORT
SUPPORT PLATE ASSEMBLY
STEP# 13 Open bag #3 and find the t-bar
support plate. Using four 5-40 x 318" flathead screws, fasten
the support plate to the chassis as shown.
STEP# 14 Fasten the rear damper post to the
t-bar support plate as shown using a 4-40 x 112" screw.
Make sure you do not over tighten the screw. Also be sure
the holes in the posts are facing the front and rear of the
chassis. Not side to side.
STEP# 15 Next, locate the rear damper
pushrod and install it in the rear motor block brace as
shown.
STEP# 16 Slide a set collar and spring on the
push rod as shown.
STEP# 17 Next, slide the t-bar assembly into
position under the t-bar support plate that is on the chassis,
and slide the push rod into the middle hole of the damper
post.
STEP# 18 Next, slide the nylon pivot socket
into the large hole in the nylon t-bar support plate.
STEP# 19 Now, using a 8-32 x 112" aluminum
screw, fasten the front of the t-bar to the front hole in the
t-bar support plate and lock into place using an 8-32 nylon
lock nut.
STEP# 20 Slide another spring and set collar
on the push rod as shown. Using a 4-40 set screw, tighten
the set collar on the push rod to hold the assembly in place.
This will be adjusted later.
STEP# 21 In each hole next to the pivot ball
in the t-bar, place a 4-40 x 1" screw.
STEP# 22 Put a rear suspension spring over
each screw on top of the t-bar support plate. On top of each
spring, place a nylon spring locator as shown.
STEP# 23 Lock this assembly into place with
a 4-40 lock nut on each screw. Tighten the nuts until they
compress the springs approximately 25%
STEP# 24 Next, fasten the antenna mount on
the chassis using a 4-40 x 114" screw.
5
STEP# 25 Next, fasten the 4" body posts to
the chassis using a 4-40 x 112" screw. Make sure you do not
over tighten the screw in the body post. Put the body post
collars on the body posts just under the last set of hood pin
holes and lock into place with a 4-40 x 1/8" set screw. These
will be adjusted later to the body.
STEP# 26 Take a break. Go and get a cold
drink and sit back and tell yourseff what a great job you have
done so far.
( DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY )
STEP# 27 Locate bag #5 and empty into a
container. There are many small parts that will roll off a
table in this bag. Find the diff axle. Slip one of the diff drive
rings onto the hub on the axle as shown. Many racers use a
drop of super glue, like ZAP or HOT STUFF to hold the drive
ring in place on the hub.
STEP# 28 Now locate the spur gear. You will
notice that the gear has two sets of holes in it. We will be
using the outside set of holes. Push an 118" diff ball in each
of the outside eight holes. Now put a small dab of diff grease
on each ball.
STEP# 29 Now slide the spur gear onto the
diff axle topped with the second diff drive ring. If you find
something to stand the diff axle in while building, it makes
assembly much easier.
STEP# 30 Next, push a nylon bushing into
each end of the diff hub. Be sure to trim any flashing off from
the edge of the bushings. Make sure they fit all the way down
in the hole. Put a drop of light oil inside each bushing and
slide the hub assembly on the axle. Line up the drive ring on
top of the gear with the diff hub. This drive ring may also be
super glued to the hub.
STEP# 31 Now put the thin thrust washer on
the axle, inside the diff hub, followed by the black thrust
bearing , and then the thick thrust washer. Next, put the steel
cone washer on the axle (small end up) and lastly the 8-32
nylon lock nut. Tighten the nut just enough to hold all the
parts in place. We will adjust it later. Only use a nylon nut on
the diff axle.
STEP# 32 Put the two 114" x 318" flanged
bushings in the ride height adjustors in the motor blocks. Put
a drop of light oil inside each bushing.
STEP # 33 Next, find the nylon axle spacers.
Take the 118" spacer and slide it on the diff axle. Slide the
assembly through the bearings in the rear pod.
 STEP# 34 On the other side of the axle, slide
on the other 114" spacer.
STEP# 35 Now locate the wheel hub and slide
it on the diff axle next to the nylon spacer. Using the two
10-32 x 114" set screws, lightly lock the hub into position
on the axle. Loosen the screws and remove the wheel hub.
The screws have left marks on the axle. Lightly file a small
flat spot in the axle where the marks were made. This will
make it easier to remove the wheel hub later on. Put the hub
back on the axle, and check the side to side play. You only
want the axle to move from side to side about a piece of
papers thickness. Tighten the set screws on the flat spots
that you filed on the axle. Spin the axle to make sure it turns
freely.
STEP# 36 Install the rear tires on the rear
hubs using the eight 5-40 x 3/8" screws. Remove all the
flashing from around the screw holes on the hubs or the
wheels will not sit flat against the hub. Also be sure to tighten
all the screws equally, otherwise the wheel will not run true.
Spin the rear axle and see if the tires are running true. If
they are not, loosen or tighten screws until they do run true.
STEP# 37 To adjust the diff, turn the car so
the rear end is facing you. Hold the left hand tire in your left
hand and the right hand tire in your right hand. Now with
your right hand thumb on the top of the spur gear, try to
rotate the gear forward. If you haven't over-tightened the
nut, the gear should slip freely. Tighten the nut on the axfe
114 of a turn and try again. Keep tightening the nut a 114 turn
at a time untif the gear wiff not sfip. Your diff is now adjusted.
STEP# 38 O.K. Now its time for the front
wheefs to be put on. And the front wheef bushings and open
the bag with the front tires inside. You wiff notice that the
wheels have a deep side and a shallow side. The shallow
side is the outside of the wheel. Press two bushings into the
center of each wheel and put a drop of light oif inside each
bushing. Put the steer washer on the front axfe, then slide
the wheel on, and lock it in place with a 118" e-clip on the end
of the axle.
This shoufd compfete the chassis assembfy of your
PR0-1 0 SPORT. Look over the chassis to be sure all of the
parts are in the correct position. Now, on to the radio gear in-
stallation.
. ( RADIO GEAR INSTALLATION )
There are a number of good radios on the market
today. Consult your hobby shop and they can suggest the
best set up for the type of racing you wiff be doing. If you
plan to do a lot of serious racing, we recommend that you do
not buy the cheapest radio possible. This could result in
radio interference problems at the race track.
There are many different ways to install radio gear.
This is only one way. Put the gear in the way that is best
6
suited for you and your type of equipment.
We will be showing you the installation of an elec-
tronic speed control. This is the most popular type speed
control device used today. Although, resister type speed
controls are still avaifable, you will hav"e much less trouble
from an electronic type. There are many different types and
price ranges to choose from. Ask your hobby shop to help
you pick one that will do the job for you.
r ~
ADDITIONAL TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED
TO INSTALL RADIO GEAR & BATTERIES
Soldering Iron I Rosin Core Solder
Small Tie Wraps I Electrical Tape
Nylon Strapping Tape I Hook up wire
STEP # 39 Take the servo you will be using for
the steering, remove the screw and wheel that came on it.
Put your servo saver in its place as shown, but do not put the
screw back in. You need to use the servo saver when you
race. When you hit something, the servo saver has a spring
in it that keeps the internal gears in the servo from being
stripped. That's why they call it a servo saver. Pretty good,
uh? Now, with your fingers, tum the servo saver all the way
to the left and then all the way to the right to the stops. You
want to position the servo saver so that it's right in the middle
of the stops. Now screw in the servo shaft screw.
STEP# 40 Stick a piece of servo tape on the
bottom of the servo. Only peel off one side of the protective
backing.
STEP II 41 Remove the screws and face
plates from the servo mounting posts and position the servo
between the posts on the chassis as shown. Be sure the
servo saver is in the middle of the chassis. When you are
sure the servo is in the right position, peel off the protective
backing and place the servo on the chassis. Lock the servo
in place (using the screws and face plates) to the posts as
shown. Some servos are too large to fit in between the
servo mounting posts. If yours will not fit, only use one of the
posts. Remove the post on the side that will still allow the
servo saver to be in the center of the chassis.
STEP# 42 Now, put the steering finkage in the
servo saver and steering blocks as shown.
STEP# 43 Next, lock the two pieces of
steering linkage in place using the set collars and 4·40
set screws. With the servo saver in the straight up position,
the front wheels should be pointing straight. Adjust the
linkage until they are.
STEP# 44 Position your receiver in the
position where the Novak receiver is shown. Attach it to the
chassis using double sided sticky tape.
 STEP# 45 Take the end of the receiver wire
and run it up through the bottom hole in the antenna mount.
Next, run the antenna wire up through the antenna tube until
about an inch is sticking out of the top of the tube. Fold the
antenna wire over the end of the tube and put the antenna
cap on to hold the wire in place. Take the excess receiver
wire and neatly fold it up and tie-wrap it along side the
receiver. Plug the steering servo wire into the appropriate
spot in the receiver.
STEP# 46 Mount your speed control device in
the position that the Novak speed control is shown on the
chassis. Attach it to the chassis using double sided tape.
Plug the speed control's wire into the throttle spot on the
receiver. Next use the double sided tape to attach the switch
to the chassis. Tie-wrap the steering servo and speed
control wires together in a neat bundle.
STEP# 47 Many different battery configura-
tions can be used with the PR0-1 0 SPORT. This step wilf
show a 6 - cell pack for road course racing. Using a piece
of wire or battery shunt wire, solder the batteries together
as shown. Most of the racers glue the cell together before
soldering with either a hot glue gun or silicone cement. This
makes them much easier to worl< with. All of the connections
should be positive to negative. Solder tabs can be made
from pieces of wire or battery shunt. The connections from
the speed control can be made to these instead of directly to
the batteries each time. This protects the batteries from
being overheated too many times. Next, cut a piece of
jumper wire. This will connect the two packs together. When
measuring the wire, allow enough clearance for the wire to
clear the shock mount. The jumper wire length should be
about 3 112· long. Solder the jumper wire into place and set
the pack in the chassis to make sure everything is correct.
STEP # 48 Put the battery pack in the car and
use nylon strapping tape to hold the batteries in. About 2
wraps of tape per side should do it. Now solder the speed
control battery wires to the battery locations shown. Refer
to the speed control instructions for the proper wire hook
ups.
STEP# 49 Install the motor in the rear pod.
Hook up the wires from the speed control to the correspond-
ing positive and negative terminals on the motor.
The spur gear supplied is a 64 pitch gear. You wilf
need to get a 64 pitch pinion gear. The size pinion gear you
get wiff depend on what motor you have and what type track
you are racing on. Consult the motor manufacturer for
pinion gear size. After you have selected a pinion gear, put
it on the motor shaft and lock it in place with a 4-40 set
screw. The edge of the pinion gear should be even with the
edge of the spur gear. TRC I COMPOSITECRAFT has a full
line of steel and aluminum pinion gears. Check our complete
catalog for a full line of accessories.
To set the gear mesh, loosen the motor screws so
7
the motor can slide front to back. Pull the motor toward the
rear axle until the pinion gear engages with the spur gear.
You should be able to feel a small amount of play in the spur
gear. Tighten the motor screws and check the play again. If
the gear mesh is too tight, you will lose running time. If the
gears are too loose they will strip out very easily.
If you run a large spur gear and pinion, it wiff be
necessary to file a small amount of the t-bar away so the
motor can be moved forward enough to get the proper gear
mesh. This wiff not hurt the strength of the t-bar as long as
you don't go too far. About 1116. should be enough.
This should complete the mechanical assembly of
your PR0-1 0 SPORT. The body is next.
BODY PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
Before you get started, you should decide on the
colors you are going to use to paint the body. You should
use a paint that is made for Lexan bodies. Many brands are
available in spray cans as well as brush on.
Wash the inside of the body using warm water and
soap. Be sure to rinse the body good to remove all of the
soap. Dry the body off completely with a soft, lint free cloth.
Remove the antenna from the chassis and set the
body on top of the chassis. Line up the wheel wells in the
body to the wheels on the chassis making sure the chassis is
centered side to side in the body. With a magic marl<er, put a
marl< on the body on top of the body posts. After you paint
the body you wilf be able to tell where to drilf the 1/ 4" holes
for the body posts.
Using masking tape, cover the windshields and any
other areas not to be painted with the first color. Rub the
edges around the tape with the back of your finger naif so
that paint wiff not bleed under the tape. Make sure you use a
good automotive grade paint tape or the paint will bleed
through it anyway.
After the body has been taped, spray or brush on
the paint. It is better to paint several thin coats as opposed to
one thick coat. If you are going to paint the body more than
one color, the darl<er colors should be painted first and the
lighter colors last. If you paint the light colors first, the darl<
colors wilf bleed through the light colors.
After the paint has completely dried, remove the
masking tape from the windshield and any other place you
may have taped. Trim the body along the bottom trim line
using a pair of scissors or a hobby knife. Drilf a 114" hole in
each marl< that you made for the body posts. Set the body
on the chassis. Check the height of the body. You can now
raise or lower the body post collars to get the body to set the
way you want it on the chassis.
Using a magic marl<er trace around the front and
rear wheels on the outside of the body. Trim out the wheel
wheels. If any magic marl<er is left on the body it can be
removed with rubbing alcohol. Be sure to trim the wheel
wells about 114• larger than the wheels to allow for the
suspension to move.
 BEFORE YOU RACE THE CAR. TAKE A FEW
MINUTES TO READ THIS CHASSIS SET UP SECTION.
IT WILL GIVE YOU A PLACE TO START BEFORE YOU
GET TO THE TRACK. BEFORE CHARGING THE BAT-
TERIES, MAKE SURE ALL THE CONNECTIONS ARE
CORRECT AND THAT THE SPEED CONTROL SWITCH
IS OFF. WE HOPE YOU ENJOY YOUR............. .
PR0-10SPORT
PR0-10 SPORT CHASSIS SET UP
Here are some tips that our racing team uses and
some terms and explanations used in ric car set up. The
suggestions that are given in this manual are a starting
point. The final set up you will have will depend on your track
and driving styles.
When you make changes to the chassis. only make
one or two changes at a time. If you make a bunch of
changes all at once. you won't know which one helped or
hurt the set up for sure. Take your time and start off driving
slow and work your way into it. It will take practice.
FRONT CASTER
Caster is a term referring to the angle that the king
pins lay back compared to the chassis. As a general rule. the
more caster you have ( the more the king pins are leaned
back) the less steering you will have at high speeds. The
car will also have more stability with more caster. The team
starts out with 3 - 4 degrees of caster.
To change caster on the PRO-t 0 SPORT, you add
or subtract caster shims. Everytime that you add a caster
shim it lowers the chassis ground clearance. Keep this in
mind when adding shims. Each shim is two degrees.
TWEEKING THE CHASSIS
The word tweek refers to how flat the chassis is. If
your chassis is not flat then it is tweeked. You must set the
tweek to insure the car tums the same in both directions. It
must be done when the chassis is in a race ready state, less
the body.
The tweek adjustments for the PR0-1 0 are the two
outside screws that the rear suspension springs are on.
Holding the car with the bottom of the chassis facing toward
you and the front of the chassis pointing up. you will see
these two screws. Which ever screw you tighten. it will make
the front wheel on that same side heavy and the rear wheel
on that side lighter. When you tighten these screws. do not
tighten very much at a time. A full turn on the screw will make
a big change on the tweek.
To check the tweek, set the chassis on a flat.
smooth surface with the front of the car facing you. Using a
hobby knife, lift the front of the chassis in the middle, about
t• off the surface and spin both of the front tires. Slowly.
lower the chassis and both of the front wheels should hit the
8
•
surface and stop at the same time. In order for this method to
work. both of the front tires must be the same size. and the
chassis must be in race ready state less the body. If they do
not touch at the same time. tighten or loosen the tweek
screws.
RIDE HEIGHT
The PRO-t 0 has five different rear axle ride height
adjustments. The purpose of these are to control the ground
clearance of the chassis. and to adjust weight transfer.
If the rear of the chassis is higher than the front of
the chassis. in respect to ground clearance. more weight
will be transfered to the front of the chassis. giving more
steering. The same holds.true if the front is higher than the
rear. It will give you more rear traction.
Keep the chassis as low as the track conditions will
allow. Do not set it up so that the chassis will bottom out
when the rear suspension is at full travel.
FRONT & REAR SPRINGS
The front springs that come in the PRO-tO kit are
.022·. You may want to try different springs on the front end.
As a general rule. the softer the spring. the more steering
you will have.
If you are running an oval with most of the batteries
on the left side of the chassis. the left spring needs to be
stiffer than the right spring.
Regardless of the springs that you use, you will
need to dampen the steering blocks with a thick silicone lube
to smooth it out and keep it from bouncing.
The springs that are supplied in the rear suspension
should be used. Stiffer and softer springs have been tried.
but the stock springs work well for most tracks.
BATTERY POSITION
The position of the battery pack plays an important
part in the way the chassis handles. The further forward the
pack is in the chassis. the more steering you will have. The
further back the pack is. the more rear traction you will have.
For 6-cell road racing. the team runs three cells per
side. positioned In the back three rear slots in the chassis.
Remember. If you need more steering. move them forward
one slot.
For 6-cell oval racing. the team runs 5 cells on the
left side starting at the rear and t cell on the right, one slot
back from the front.
TIRE SELECTION
The tires that are supplied in this kit are green fronts
and green rears. These tires will work on 80% of the tracks
that you will be racing on. although other tires might work
better under certain conditions.
For oval racing on banked oval tracks, TIM
RADIALS should be used. These tires have won every
major oval race in 1989. There is no better tire for this type
of racing.
For racing on carpet, the green tires that are sup-
plied will work fine. Depending on the carpet type, YOKOMO
tires might work a little bit better. YOKOMO tires are avail-
able from TRC.
For racing on asphalt, green tires are what most of
the team uses. Because asphalt is different around the
country, this is something that you will have to experiment
with.
Good handling is a balance between front and rear
traction. You should always run the hardest possible tire that
gives you the traction that you need. Running a softer tire
will increase traction, but it will hop and slow the car down
in the turns.
You can add traction without changing compounds,
with the use of a traction additive. For instance, if the car has
good front traction but it is a little loose in the rear, traction
additive can be added to the rear tires.
The following traction chart will give you the
traction of each compound under normal conditions.
HIGHEST TRACTION
YELLOW DOT
GREEN I YELLOW
GREEN DOT
YOKOMO
BLUE DOT
ORANGE I BLUE DOT
ORANGE DOT
LOWEST TRACTION
ADJUSTING THE REAR SHOCK SPRINGS
The PR0-1 0 SPORT is supplied with a rear damper
that acts as a shock absorber for the rear T-bar. By com-
pressing or loosening the set collars, the motion of T-bar will
be stiff or soft from front to back. ff the rear of the car is
bouncing, compress the springs. Be sure to put a drop of
silicone lube In the hole that the push rod goes through. The
springs supplied will work the best.
WINGS
Most racers today run wings at all types of races.
Wing selection is important to car handling. Running a wing
will do two things. It increases the rear traction and stability
of the car. It decreases front traction and adds drag to the
car. Run as small of a wing as possible to give you the
results that you need. Running a huge wing will add too
much drag and slow you down and decrease your run time.
There are many different types of wings available.
Do some testing and pick the one that suits your racing
best.
9
UP-GRADING YOUR PR0 -10 SPORT
The PR0-10 SPORT was designed as an entry
level race car. The car may be raced in the stock form, but
there are many improvements that can be made to the
chassis that will enhance the performance ifyou ever start to
race on a competitive level. Because the PR0-1 0 SPORT is
based on the same design as the PR0-1 0 ELITE, all of the
ELITE parts will fit on your SPORT.
When you start to race, one of the most important
things to consider is weight. You want the car to be as light
as possible. The chassis.supplied is made from fiberglass.
One of the best weight savings you can get is by putting a
graphite chassis on the car. This chassis will save you
almost one ounce over the fiberglass chassis and it will be
much stronger. The part number for the graphite chassis is
#5310.
Another area that you need to look at in racing is
rolling resistance. Because the car is battery powered, it has
a limited supply of power. The more freely everything rolls
the less power it takes, which will make the car run faster
and longer. The car comes with oilite bushings. Replacing
these with ball bearings will free up the front and rear
wheels so you can run faster and longer. The part numbers
are #5480 & #5484.
When you crash the car at high speeds, sometimes
things break or bend. To help provent this, a front bumper
and side crash pods may be added to the chassis. These
parts will help you in a crash situation. They will help keep
the front and rear axles from being bent or broken.
The front axle beam that is supplied is made from
high-impact nylon. The magnesium front end will bolt onto
your chassis. This front end is slightly stronger. You will
need to buy the front cross bar, cinch blocks, king pins, and
steering blocks. Contact your local dealer for more informa·
tion.
A graphite axle may be added to replace the steel
diff axle. This will save some weight and give you better
differential action. Although the graphite axle is lighter, it is
not as strong as the steel axle. The graphite axle must be
used with rear ball bearings. Oi/ite bushings should not be
used. A complete diff kit is available.
The rear hubs that are supplied are made from
nylon. After a few crashes they may become bent. For
racing, aluminum hubs should be used. These will not get
bent as easily and the rear wheels will run truer.
There are many other accessories that are available
to make your car a racing machine. Start out slow and learn
to drive. As you become a better driver you can add perform-
ance parts. If you need help, have any questions or need to
order parts, please give us a call. GOOD LUCK!
TOTAL RACING CONNECTION, INC. "
2211 CHARTER STREET
ALBEMARLE, N.C. 28001
PHONE 704-982-0507
 PR0-10 SERIES REPLACEMENT 154t0 PRO-tO SERIES NYlON SIDE POD SET .............................. S2.50
15422 2" MOLDED NYlON BODY POST KIT .................- ............... $2.00
PARTS & ACCESSORIES 15424 3" MOLDED NYlON BODY POST KIT - - -........._ ............... $2.50
15426 4" MOLDED NYlON BODY POST KIT ....._,........................ S3.00
15428 MOLDED NYlON BODY POST COUARS 16 ..........- .......... $1.50
FRONT SUSPENSION
SHOCKS & ACCESSORIES

-·-pin,-·---.
15100 COMPLETE SPI.IT FRONT CROSS BAR ............................. $29.95
Cc>nl>IIIO -""'split
front MdlrL Ind.-
1w0 21Ngr.. ado 15450
15452
COMPLETE SHOCK KIT I STOCK ....................................... $12.00
RE-BUILD KIT FOR STOCK SHOCK WITH PISTON ............. $6.00
NOIIIIIIY ~ lll'ld ltM:in.Jcti:JM. -ldngpn.. and Ill
15454 HEAVY SHOCK SPRING 12 ................................................... $1.00
15102 ZERO DEGREE A)(LE J-IALF ................................................. $10.00 15458 LIGHT SHOCK SPRING 12 .....................................................$1.00
15104 2 {)EGREE AXLE 1-IA.LF........................................................... $10.00 15458 ALUMINUM SHOCK PINS 12 .................................................. $2.911
15totl 4 ()EGREE AXLE 1-lA.LF............................................................. $10..00
15t08 SPACER AND PIN SET ............................................................. $2.00
15110 MAGNESIUM FRONT CROSS BAR I STOCK ...................... St4.00 BALL BEARINGS & BUSHINGS
15112 MAGNESIUM FRONT CROSS BAR 1 OVAL ......................... St4.00
• 2 DEGREES BUILT IN CAMBER 15476 118" X 5116" FLANGED 0/LfTE BUSHINGS 12 ...................... St.25
15113 MAGNESIUM FRONT CROSS BAR I OVAL ......................... S t4.00 15478 114' X 318• fU.NGED OIL/TE BUSHINGS I2 ........................ St.50
• SAME AS 15tt2 BUT 118" WIDER 15480 VB" X 51t6" FlANGED BEARING 1 2 ....................................S t2.00
15114 LEFT CINCH BI.OCK FOR MAGNESIUM FRONT 15482 31t6" X 51t6" FLANGED BEARINGS 1 2 .............................. S t2.00
CROSS BAR I ALI.MNUM·····-- ·-··-····---······-·-·--········ $7.50 154/U t/4' X 318" FlANGED BEARING I 2 ....._ ............................. S t3.00
15118 RIGHT Fl.CMT BI.OCK FOR MAGNESIUM FRONT
CROSS BAR I NYL{)111_.~·-·····- -·-·-............··-··---··--··········· $3..5 0 SCREWS & HARDWARE
15117 FRONT AXLE BLOCK SET !INCLUDES 15tt4. •tt6..... StO.OO
15118 5132" KING PINS FOR MAG. CROSS BAR·--...................... $4.00
15t20 5132" STEERING BLOCKS I STOCK ...................................... $7.50 15502 4-40X 114.STEEL FlATHEAD SOCKET SCREWS/ 20 ..... $2.00
• TRAILINGARMAXLEIFOR t/8" BEARINGS 15506 4-40X 112" STEEL FLAT HEAD SOCKET SCREWS I S ....... St.50
15t24 5132" STE.ERING BLC>CKS .............~ ........................................ $10.00 15508 4-40 X 314• STEEL Fl.A T HEAD SOCKET SCREWS IS ....... St.50
• ON CENTER AXLE I FOR 31t6" BEARINGS 15510 4-40 X t" STEEL FLATHEAD PHILLIPS SCREW16 ............. St.50
15138 MOLDED NYlON FRONT CROSS BAR ................................. ss.oo #55t4 5-40X 114"STEEL SOCKETHEADCAPSCREW/6 ........... $1.50
•tNCLUDES t PAIR OF CASTER SHIMS 155t6 5-40X 318. STEEL SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS/6 ......... $1.50
KING PINS FOR MOLDED CROSS BAR ............................... $4.00 155t7 5-40 X 318. ALUM. SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREWS 1 S ......... $6.00
2 DEGREE CASTER SHIMS 12 PAIR ..................................... S t.OO ~23 8.:12 X t12" FLATHEADALUMINUM SCREWS/6 ............... $1.50
• FOR USE WITH MOLDED CROSS BAR 15526 S-32 X 7/B" FLAT HEAD STEEL SCREWS/ 6 ....................... St.50
t/8* STEER/11/G BLOCKS ............................................................ $7.50 15527 6·32 X 718" Fl.A T HEAD ALUMINUM SCREWS 1 6 ............... $2.00
• TRAILING ARM AXLE I FOR t/8• BEARINGS 15540 4-40 X t/8" STEEL SET SCREWS I S .................................... $2..25
15t50 t/8" STEERING BLOCKS ...................................................... StO.OO 15544 8-32 X 31t6" STEEL SET SCREW16 .................................... St.50
• ON CENTER AXLE I FOR 3116' BEARINGS 15546 tD-32 X tw STEEL SET SCREWS I 6 .................................. St.50
15t52 FRONT SUSPENSION SPRINGS .OtB" (SOFT) ................... St.50 15552 4-40AW MINUMLOCK NUTS/6 .......................................... $ 1.50
15154 FRONT SUSPENSION SPRINGS .020· ( MED. ) ................... $ 1.50 15558 6-32 NYlON LOCK NUTS / 6 ................................................. $ t .OO
15158 FRONT SUSPENSION SPRINGS .022" (STIFF) .................. St.50 15580 tiB" E·CUPI 10 ............................................................. __,., $t.50
15158 ALUMINUM STEERING LINKAGE KIT ! LONG .................... Stt.95 15581 .050• STEEL AUENWRENCH / 2 ......................................... $1.00
·FOR USE WITH t/8" WIDER FRONT CROSS BARS 15562 11t6"AUENWRENCH12 ..................................................... St.OO
ALUMINUM STEERING LINKAGE KIT I SHORT .................. Stt.95 15564 5/64" ALLEN WRENCH/2 ..................................................... $1.00
• STOCK REPLACEMENT FOR PRO- tO SERIES 15566 3132" ALLEN WRENCH / 2 ..................................................... $1.00
15160 ALUMINUM STEERING TURNBUCKLES I LONG .................. $5.95
15t6t
#5162
ALUMINUM STEERING TURNBUCKLES I LONG .................. $5.95
ALUMINUM STEERING BALL JOINTS I LONG 1 10 ............... $9.95
DIFFERENTIALS & ACCESSORIES
15163 ALUMINUM STEERING BAU JOINTS! SHORT I tO ............ $9.95
#5t64 PLASTIC BAU CUPS!t4 ...................................................... $5.00 #5660 PRO-tO SERIES COMPLETE PRO DIFF ............................. $75.00
#5166 SERVO MOUNTING KIT ......................................................... $t.50 #5661 ALUMINUM TIP GRAPHfTE PRO AXLE .............................. $35.00
• USES BEARING IN SPUR GEAR
15662 GRAPHITE DIFF AXLE ......................................................... $24.95
CHASSIS PARTS #5863 STEEL DIFF AXLE ................................................................. $7.99
S5866 RIGHT ALUMINUM DIFF HUB ............................................... S8.50
15308 PRO-tO X I SPORT COMPOSITEGRAPHfTECHASSIS ... $39..99 15667 RIGHT MOLDED NYlON DIFF HUB ..................................... S3.00
15310 PRO· t O ELITE GRAPHITE CHA.S SIS PLATE .................... $49.95 15668 LEJ:T ALUMINUM WHEEL HUB.............................................$ 7.50
15314 MOLDED NYlON T·BAR SUPPORT PLATE .......................... $3.50 15669 LEFT MOLDED NYLON WHEEL HUB ................................... $3.00
15315 , MOLDED NYlON T·BAR SUPPORT PLATE SET .................. $5.00 15672 STANDARD DIFFERENTIAL 8ALLSi t6 .............................. $ 1.00
·INCLUDES 153t6 15673 • SUPER BALLS ·FOR DIFFERENTIAL l t6 .......................... S3.00
#53t6 PIVOT BAU & SOCKET FOR T·BAR SUPPORT PLATE ...... $2.00 #5874 DIFFERENTIAL DRIVE RINGS 1 4 ......................................... S2.00
15318 / PRO- tO SERIES REAR T-BAR ............................................... $7.99 15677 DIFFERENTIAL THRUST BEARING SET .............................. $2.00
15320 PRO-tO SERIES MOTOR BLOCK BRACE ............................. $2.50 15678 CONE WASHERS FOR DIFF AXLE/5 .................................. $1.00
15322 PRO-tO SERIES NYlON MOTOR BLOCK SET ..................... $ 7.99 15665 PRO. tO SERIES REAR AXLE SPACERS 14 ....................... .St.50
15324 PRO-tO SERIES LEFT ALUMINUM MOTOR BLOCK .......... St7.99 15686 114' X 318. PLAIN BAU BEARING ......................................... $6.00
1532f1 "' PRO-tO SERIES RIGHT ALUMINUM MOTOR BLOCK ........ St7.99 15690 t/4' X 318" PLAIN NYLON BUSHING/2 ................................ St.OO
15328 PRO-tO SERIES RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTOR SET ................. $4.00
1533() PRO. tO SERIES SHOCK & ANTENNA MOUNT .................... $5.99
15332 PRO-tO SPORT ANTENNA MOUNT WITH TUBE .................. $2.00
15340 PRO-tO SERIES REAR SUSPENSION SPRINGS .............. ... $2.00
15342 PRO-tO SERIES NYlON SPRING LOCATORS ..................... $1.00 TO ORDER PARTS AND ACCESSORIES
15350 PRO-tO SPORT REAR DAMPER KIT ..................................... $3.50
TOTAL RACING CONNECTION, INC..
CHASSIS ACCESSORIES 2211 CHARTER STREET,
ALBEMARLE, N.C. 28001
15400 MOLDED NYlON FRONT BUMPER ................- .................... $5.00
15402 PRO-tO SERIES ALUMINUM WING MOUNT KIT .................. 16.99 704 - 982 - 0507
15404 PRO-tO SERIES NYlON WING MOUNT KIT ......................... $3.99

.r·-
/

' ~)
10
STEP-BY-STEP
PI TORIAL
REFERENCE
FOR PRO 10 SPORT

Pictured with optional bumper & side wing.

USE THIS
NUMBERED
PHOTO REFERENCE
ALONG WITH YOUR
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
 This step-by-step pictorial reference guide for the PR0-1 0 SPORT is to
be used along with the assembly instruction manual. This kit should not be
assembled using these pictures only.
The step numbers in the pictures correspond to the steps in the assembly
instruction manual. Make sure each step is completed before proceeding to
the next. Put a check mark in the box on each picture after the step Is
completed.
The PR0-1 0 SPORTS will have a nylon front end. To insure the strength
of it, we suggest boiling it in water for 10 minutes.
If you have any problems during assembly, call (704) 982-0507 for
technical assistance. GOOD LUCK! We hope you enjoy your new PR0-10.

0STEP#1 0STEP#2

0STEP#3 0STEP#4

2
0STEP#5 0STEP#6

(J STEP#7 CJSTEP#8

QsTEP#9 CJSTEP#10

3
0 STEP#11 0STEP#12

0STEP#13 0 STEP#14

0 STEP#15 0 STEP #16

• 4
0 STEP#17 0 STEP#18

0 STEP#19 0STEP #20

0 STEP#21 0 STEP#22

s·
0STEP#23 0 STEP#24

0STEP#25 0 STEP#26

0 STEP#27 0STEP #28

6
Os~m

os~m

7
8
0 STEP#41 OsrEP#42

OsrEP#43 0STEP#44

0STEP#45 OsrEP#46

9
 0 STEP#47 0 STEP#48

I FINISHED
0STEP#49 ASSEMBLY