NUTTY ITALY

A RIDE THROUGH THE HISTORY AND VERSATILITY OF

POPULAR ITALIAN NUTS

BY LORENA TABOSA
To my family and close friends, who encouraged me to
embark on a crazy Italian journey.
Contents

Introduction
Nutty Italy, nutty world.......................................................................................3
The nuts you will find here...................................................................................4

Part 1
Walnut............................................................................................................6
Roasted pumpkin with walnuts, ricotta and mint.....................................................9

Part 2
Pistachio.........................................................................................................11
Lemony spaghetti with pistachios and anchovies.....................................................15

Part 3
Hazelnut.........................................................................................................18
Brutti ma buoni................................................................................................21

Part 4
Almond..........................................................................................................23
Cantucci.........................................................................................................26

Credits...........................................................................................................28

Nutty Italy | 2
Nutty Italy,
nutty world

Nuts are no joke. You do not want to pick up a fight with

any of them. Why? It is not only because they are nutritious,
easy to assemble and pair, or even because they represent
perennial crops. Nuts are bad guys turning good.
Historians point out that today’s hero like walnuts and
almonds were considered poisonous back in the day.
Picture this: what would a person from ancient times think
if they saw you devouring that middle-afternoon chocolate
pecan cookie? Or preparing a very nice pesto for dinner?

Well, they would probably think you are nuts! And despite
this bad pun, the truth is that the human body has adapted
to digest a lot of things - and nuts are part of that mix. Over
the next pages, you will find the history of four types of nuts
that are widely consumed and cultivated in Italy, as well as
recipes for tasting each one of them.

I hope you are not afraid to be a little nutty and embark on

this culinary adventure. Remembering that the recipes have
Italian origin or inspiration, but that adaptations to your
own reality are always welcome. Do you prefer hazelnuts to
pistachios? Replace it. Want to test what a walnut Brutti ma
buoni would look like? Nothing can stop you. In the kitchen,
taste knows no bounds.

Nutty Italy | 3
 The nuts you will find here

L
HAZE NUT

WA
LN
UT

D
ON
M
AL

PIS
TA
C
HI
O

Nutty Italy | 4
Walnut
Walnut

Like many other children, I was not the biggest fan of nuts (or any type of dried fruit) during
my childhood. Their texture and taste were simply not appealing to me, but in the case of
walnuts, there was more. Its looks resembled a brain, and what kid would be excited about
eating brains, right?

Luckily, everything changed in my teens. So much so that it is now hard to think of someone
that loves nuts more than I do. And I am not alone. Since antiquity, walnuts have been
considered special foods.

They are intensively cultivated in northern Italy, southwest France and California, the latter
being the top producer in the world. Being high in fat (the good kind of fat), walnuts can also
be found in the shape of oil to dress salads and prepare all sorts of meals that could do well
with a nutty flavour in the background.

Walnuts are the primary nuts, the first that comes to mind. Actually, the etymological origin
of the word “nut” has its root in walnuts. They grow on tall trees that also provide high-
quality wood. The oldest variety is believed to be Persian, today known as the English
walnut, but there are native walnuts even in North America, the black walnuts.

Walnuts have held a special place on tables and celebrations throughout history. Romans
would throw walnuts at the happy couple at weddings, and the nuts figure in many works of
art, reassuring us that they have always been there. So you can have an ideia of its
importance in history, walnuts were among the foods found on tables in the ruins of
Pompeii’s Temple of Isis. This is proof that they were already consumed many centuries ago,
since the fatal eruption of Mount Vesuvius was in the year 79.

On the health side, these versatile ingredients are rich in antioxidants and omega-3 fatty
acids, which may have protective effects against cancers and cardiovascular disease. The
praised Mediterranean diet, known all over the world for its positive impacts on the body,
frequently includes nuts – and walnuts are a given.

Nutty Italy | 6
Italians use walnuts to make pasta, biscuits, bread and various sauces, like pesto and Salsa
di Noci (a sauce made with walnuts, parmesan, garlic, bread, milk and olive oil). From the
Emilia-Romagna region comes Nocino, a liqueur made from green walnuts harvested before
the end of June.

We will be pairing walnuts with pumpkin and ricotta here, two other main characters in
Italian cuisine. Pumpkins keep you well-fed during the winter when other crops become
scarcer or you need a meat substitute for soups and stews. The ricotta brings more
creaminess to the dish and, together with the mint leaves, maintains the welcome freshness
at any season of the year.

Nutty Italy | 7
Roasted pumpkin with
walnuts, ricotta and mint

Serves 4
Ingredients

500 g pumpkin in cubes

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Black-pepper
50 g toasted walnuts
50 g creamy ricotta
Around 12 mint leaves

Instructions

Preheat the oven to 200º C. In a bowl,

coat the pumpkin with olive oil and
season with salt and black pepper.
Transfer the pumpkin to a baking tray
and roast it in the oven for 30 minutes.
After 15 minutes, turn the pumpkin cubes
upside down to brown all sides. Transfer
the pumpkin to a plate and top it with
ricotta chunks, walnuts and mint leaves.
Drizzle with more olive oil and serve as a
starter or side dish.

Nutty Italy | 9
Pistachio
Pistachio

Did someone say pistachio gelato? This might be the first thing that comes to a western mind
when one thinks about eating pistachios in Italy. The nut, however, has a whole other ton of
possibilities around it.

Like other nuts presented in this book, pistachio is an ancient nut. There are mentions of it
in the Bible and translators believe that the Hebrew word botnim means pistachios. These
greenish nuts are native to Persia and and other neighboring areas in the Middle East. From
there, the Romans carried the seeds to Sicily, when it was still known by its Greek name,
“pistakion”.

Arabs conquered Sicily in 827, staying until 902, and brought with them the best variety of
pistachio in the world. They planted orchards in the Bronte region, hence the name of the
premium variety of the nut.

Bronte pistachios are cultivated at the feet of active volcano Etna. Its magical black volcanic
soil nurtures the pistachio trees and leads to the most succulent nut of its kind. Since the
trees grow amidst lava rocks, harvesting with machines is difficult. Therefore, the harvest is
manual and is done every two years – only to make it even more rare and prestigious.

Besides Italy, pistachios are also widely cultivated in California, in the United States, and in
the Middle East. Iran was a big exporter of pistachios until de 1980’s, when it was banished
from the US market for political reasons. Turkey is in third place in the pistachio producers
ranking, behind the United States and Iran.

Turkish culture around pistachio is quite interesting, as it can be traced all the way back to
the Genesis book on the bible. The text tells the story of Jacob, who prepared a basket in
gratitude to an Egyptian official with the best products of his land: balm, honey, gum
tragacanth, myrrh, pistachios and almonds. Together, these items can produce the famous
Turkish delight, a chewy confection stuffed with pistachios.

Nutty Italy | 11
In Italy, especially in Sicily, pistachios make appearances in all sorts of sweet dishes, such as
biscuits (Pasticcini al pistacchio, for example) or as a filling for delicious cannoli. But there is
also room for them to shine bright in savoury preparations. Topping meat, pasta or salads,
take your pick. Pistachios simply go with everything, even with a fellow salty component like
anchovies.

The pasta c’anciova (Spaghetti with anchovies) you will see here is an example of the food of
the poor in Sicily. With little access to meat and dairy products, the poorest have had to be
inventive in past centuries. Anchovies are small forage fish native to the Mediterranean and
the Black Sea. The poor could rescue them from the fishing nets, after separating the big fish
to sell, and feed their families. That's where several versions of pasta with anchovies come
from, which dissolve in the sauce and bring with it the umami flavor, so dear to professional
kitchens today.

Pistachios appear to finish off this spaghetti dish, alongside lemon zest and Muddica (toasted
breadcrumbs), the cheese of the poor. Crunchy additions to a not-at-all-poor dish, but a very
rich in flavour, freshness and warmth meal.

Nutty Italy | 13

Serves 2
Ingredients
250 g spaghetti
1 ½ cups breadcrumbs
from day old bread
(preferably sourdough)
6 tbsp olive oil, plus extra
for drizzling on top
Salt and pepper to taste
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
7-8 anchovy fillets canned
or jarred, in oil
Pinch red pepper flakes
Zest of 1 lemon
2 tbsp (30 g) grounded
pistachios
Lemony spaghetti with
pistachios and anchovies
Instructions
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. While waiting
to cook the pasta, prepare the breacrumbs. Heat a
large pan on medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs
and stir until lightly toasted and fragrant, about 2
minutes. Pour in 2 tbsp of olive oil and stir
constantly until crisp and golden, around 2 more
minutes. Season with salt and black pepper, if you
like, and transfer the crumbs to a bowl. Set aside.
When the water comes to a boil, add salt and the
spaghetti. Cook until al dente. In the same large
pan, heat the remaining olive oil and add the
minced garlic and anchovies. Mash the anchovies
with a spoon so they blend in the oil. Add red
pepper flakes. Stir in a cup of pasta cooking water
to create a smooth sauce. Cook for 5 minutes over
medium heat.
Drain the pasta and add to the pan with the
anchovy mixture. Mix well to coat the pasta with
the sauce. If necessary, add extra pasta water, just
a little at a time. Remove the pan from the heat
and stir in the lemon zest. Serve right away,
topped with toasted breadcrumbs and pistachios.
Nutty Italy | 15
Hazelnut
Hazelnut

You can not live on hazelnut spread alone. Despite being known worldwide through a
famous cream sold in supermarkets, in which hazelnuts are paired with chocolate and oil for
the desired flavor and texture, these nuts are used in many other ways in Italian cuisine –
and the Mediterranean in general.

Turkey, in the eastern part of the Mediterranean, is the largest producer of hazelnuts in the
world, accounting for 60% of nut production. Incidentally, that's where the best hazelnut
derivatives that this humble author has ever tasted come from, and it's worth saying that I've
tasted a good number of dishes made with these wonderful nuts.

In second place in terms of production, and possibly consumption, is Italy. The north of the
country devours hazelnuts regularly, whether in sweets, pastes, pasta, accompanying
vegetables, and, of course, in gelato. In Campania and Sicily, to the south, they are also
present in various dishes. And it was in Liguria that these nuts grew spontaneously many
centuries ago, and are still an important part of the region's culture and economy today.

Hazelnuts have accompanied humanity for at least 10,000 years, with a wide spread across
European territory. Then, with navigation, they were taken to other parts of the world, such
as the United States.

From trees, our ancestors used wood to build tools and produce fire. The logs have a touch of
magic according to ancient legends. Wood would have been used as a kind of protection
against lightning and witches, and the Chinese considered hazelnuts as one of the five foods
that God gave to humanity.

Nuts kept our ancestors nourished even when other foods were scarce, as they can be
preserved in their shells for a long time. They also seem to have been fundamental in the
transition between nomadism and a sedentary lifestyle, while agriculture did not take hold
as the main source of food resources.

Nutty Italy | 18
In Piedmont, northern Italy, a shy biscuit stands out from the rest as soon as it fills the
mouth and dissolves in pure flavor. The Brutti ma buoni, which in free translation means ugly
but tasty, are not ugly at all. As for delicious, they have everything.

Like many Italian recipes, this one seems to have been invented as an escape for the poorest,
who only needed access to nuts (today's superfoods), eggs and a little sugar. And the best:
here you only use the egg whites, while the yolks could have been added to spaghetti
carbonara. The menu is ready, so what are you waiting for to turn on the oven and bake
some meringues for dessert?

Nutty Italy | 19
 Brutti ma buoni

Yields 25 cookies

Ingredients Instructions

2 cups (200 g) hazelnuts, In the bowl of a stand mixer or using a whisk, beat
toasted and chopped egg whites and a pinch of salt. Begin slowly and
1 cup (200 g) sugar increase the speed until egg whites double in size.
3 egg whites Add in sugar in a steady stream and continue to
Pinch of salt beat until soft peaks form – when you stop the
mixer and lift the paddle, the whites form a
curved hook. Fold in the chopped hazelnuts with a
spatula, mixing from the bottom upwards, being
careful not to lose the structure of the meringue.
Preheat the oven to 135ºC and transfer the
meringue to a pot. Cook the meringue on low heat
for about 10 minutes, stirring continuously until it
thickens and reaches a beige colour. Line a baking
sheet with parchment paper. Use a tablespoon to
form cookies – it is fine if they are irregular, just
try to shape them into balls. Bake the cookies for
20-30 minutes.
If you want softer cookies in the middle, leave the
minimum time; if you like them more crunchy,
bake for longer. Just don't let them burn!

Nutty Italy | 21
Almond
Almond

With a most likely origin in the eastern Mediterranean, almonds are widely consumed in
several countries. Roasted, blanched or left whole, slivered, ground as flour, you name it:
there is always a new recipe calling for almonds, especially for those looking for gluten-free
options.

Italians are big fans of this versatile nut, which is in fact a seed and is related to plums and
peaches. It appears in traditional recipes from all over the country – from the Sicilian
almond pastries to the famous Tuscan cantucci. Almonds were cultivated by the Romans and
represented a religious symbol in ancient times. That had to do with the shape of the
almond. Ken Albala explains it in his book Nuts - A Global History:

“The intersection of two circles, the geometric ratio of the almond shape, or mandorla, was
believed by the Pythagoreans to be key to understanding the harmony of the universe.
Moreover, it was considered to be a symbol of the intersection of the earthly and divine
planes of existence.”¹

Even for those who are not religious at all, a slice of almond pie, accompanied by a
cappuccino, can be a truly transcendental experience. The kind that connects the divine and
the mundane, you know?

Speaking of cups of coffee, if you have ever been to Italy, you probably tripped over a bag of
Cantucci. These biscotti, or cookies, as you may, are the absolute ideal pastry to dunk in your
cup. Cantucci are made of only four ingredients, and this by no means diminishes its
greatness. No butter or oil is needed, which makes last-minute preparation easier, as you
don't have to plan to get the butter out of the fridge.

Nutty Italy | 23
Despite the fact that these Tuscan biscotti are possibly the most famous Italian cookies,
Tuscany is not the main producer of almonds in Italy. The cultivation is widespread in
Apulia and Sicily. This last region has several traditional recipes with almonds too, such as
Paste di Mandorle Siciliane, or Sicilian almond paste, and Minnulata, in Sicilian dialect, which
is a caramelized almond nougat usually prepared at Christmas time.

Nuts' history is well coated with religious aspects, and they were consumed not only to
celebrate Christ’s birthday but also in dishes for fast days when eating dairy was not allowed.
Turned into milk, almonds wandered from soup recipes to spiced chicken stews during the
Middle Ages. Almond milk is the first to appear in European cookbooks as an alternative to
dairy products. “Almonds were a major ingredient in general use in all types of recipe, not
merely in desserts and snacks, or as an incidental garnish”, says Albala in his book².

Back then, almonds were highly priced and destined for luxurious households. And although
we cannot say they are food for the masses today, as they can still be pricey, we are able to
find them in most markets all over the world. And no matter in which form, almonds are
definitely worth trying.

¹On page 25.

²On page 54.

Nutty Italy | 25
 Cantucci

Yields 40 cookies

Ingredients

2 cups (300 g) all-purpose flour

1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1 cup (150 g) almonds with skin
2 1/2 large eggs for the dough (see notes)
½ egg for eggwash
½ tbsp baking powder
1 tsp vanilla extract
Pinch of salt

Nutty Italy | 26
Instructions

Preheat oven to 180ºC. In a large bowl

mix flour, sugar, salt and baking
powder. In another bowl, lightly beat
the eggs and add to dry ingredients.
Pour in vanilla extract and work with
your hands until a crumbly dough
forms. Add almonds and continue to
knead until well combined. Divide the
dough into three parts and lightly dust
a work surface with flour. Roll each
part into a thin log (see picture).
Arrange logs on a baking sheet covered
with parchment paper. Make sure to
set them apart from each other as they
will puff in the oven. Brush with ½ egg
beaten with a tbsp of water. Bake for
25-30 minutes until lightly brown.
Let cool for 5 minutes and slice each log
with a sharp knife. Do slightly diagonal
slices of about 1.5 cm. Place the
cantucci back on the baking sheet with
cut side up. Bake for another 10-15
minutes. Cantucci should not brown,
just dry a little. They will harden as
they cool – perfect to dunk in your
coffee, hot chocolate or tea.

Nutty Italy | 27
Credits

Images

All photos on this book were taken by the author, except for
the ones that appear next to Italy's map on page 4. Along
with the illustrations, they were found on Canva's photo
library.

Recipes

Roasted pumpkin with walnuts, ricotta and mint is an original

recipe by the author. The Lemony spaghetti with pistachios and
anchovies was inspired by a recipe published on the website
Mangia Bedda. And both Brutti ma buoni and Cantucci
recipes are adaptations from the Italian Cookbook website.

References

ALBALA, Ken. Nuts: A Global History. Reaktion Books:

London, 2014.
MIDGLEY, John. The Goodness of Nuts and Seeds. Random
House: New York, 1993.
ROSSI, Sergio. Nocciola Ligure: tradizione e futuro del
Misto Chiavari. Sagep Editori: Genova, 2016.

Nutty Italy | 28