Teach Rock Climbing

HORSESHOE BEND
ARIZONA, U.S.

1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
3 27
Alex Honnold and Indigenous Land
Tommy Caldwell: Respectful, conscientious
The Climber’s Creed interaction with these spac-
es is an absolute necessity
Why climbing ethics are
central to the powerhouse
duo’s overall philosophy
15 31
5 Leave No Trace Climbs Worth Saving
The seven-point approach Five of world’s most iconic
Trad Climbing 101 that underpins Alex and climbing destinations (and
Tommy’s outlook on respon- the unique conservation
The foundational elements
sible outdoor climbing challenges they’re facing)
of traditional rock climbing,
plus a guide to insider lingo
and slang terms
17 44
9 Basic Climbing The Route Ahead
Etiquette Keep your mind sharp by
Boots on the Ground What allows the climbing adding these books and
community to coexist in podcasts to your queue
From desert to tundra, every
climbing environment has a harmony? A shared love of
unique set of ecological the sport and a mutual code
sensitivities of conduct

23
Public Land vs.
Private Land
Know the distinct rules of
engagement for both major
land classifications

2
 Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell:
The Climber’s Creed
For Alex and Tommy, climbing goes beyond the
technical skills you learn in their class. To get
a more holistic understanding of the sport—and
its unique code of ethics—review this guide
before you clip into an anchor
C limbing has expanded to indoor gyms and training
centers, but it is inextricable from its roots: the natural
environment. At its core, the sport grew from a deep
human need to explore the vast mountain ranges, cliffs, and
boulder fields that give the world its texture. But climbers
weren’t the first to discover these places—each spot owes
its richness to the communities of plants, animals, and peo-
ple who called it home long before climbers arrived.
This truism is particularly important to Alex Honnold
and Tommy Caldwell, two of the world’s most accom-
plished climbers. Each of the American-born athletes dis-
covered their passion for climbing at a young age: Alex
competed in national and international competitions as a
teenager, while Tommy made regular pilgrimages to Cali-
fornia’s famed Yosemite National Park with his family to
ascend rock formations. By the mid 2000s, both had inde-
pendently become committed to outdoor climbing as an
all-encompassing lifestyle. Alex dropped out of college
and became something of a modern nomad, living out of a
van and chasing fair weather, summiting various peaks in
the American West. Tommy was the first to complete sev-
eral ascents at some of the hardest sport routes in the
United States, ensuring his place in the history books.
Together, Alex and Tommy helped propel climbing into
the zeitgeist, appearing in the award-winning 2018 docu-
mentary Free Solo, directed by American professional
climber and photographer Jimmy Chin and American film-
maker Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi. Even though the sport
has boomed in recent years, the climbing community re-
3
mains tight-knit. With so many variables and risks out-
doors, Alex and Tommy believe that we all depend on one
another for our own safety at the cliff as well as for respon-
sible stewardship of the lands we rely on. When that stew-
ardship breaks down, access to treasured climbing areas
becomes threatened. In an effort to keep climbing free,
safe, and open to all, Alex and Tommy stress that the com-
munity should rely on a creed: to leave each place better
than you found it, to respect those who came before, and to
look after fellow members of the climbing community.
“Whenever you’re a beginner at anything, you should
strive to achieve the sort of moral and ethical standards
that the people that have been doing that activity have es-
tablished over years,” Tommy says.
Notions like “conquering a mountain” and “battling a
difficult route” might be common tropes. But as Alex and
Tommy remind us, climbing isn’t about fighting anything
aside from your own limits. Doing so in a pristine natural
landscape is a privilege, and it’s the climber’s duty—your
duty—to protect it. “I’ve spent 25 years climbing full-
time,” Alex says. “I want to make sure that other people
can have the same sorts of experiences that I had.”
Climbing is a high-impact activity with an elevated risk of seri-
ous injury. Practice, proper guidance, and extensive safety pre-
cautions are essential when attempting a climbing pursuit.
This guide is for educational and informational purposes only
and is not a substitute for professional instruction or guidance.
GOBLIN VALLEY
UTAH, U.S.
 EL CAPITAN
The Climber’s CALIFORNIA, U.S.
Glossary
Climbing is full of quirky slang
terms. Learn to speak the lingo
with a few of these favorites

BAIL: Coming down from a climb

before completing it. Bailing often
requires leaving a carabiner, some
traditional protection, or other “bail
gear” to lower from.

BETA: Information about a route

given by other climbers, especially
about how to do certain moves. A
godsend when asked for, and a to-
tal drag when unsolicited.

CRUXING OUT: Getting really ner-

vous at a difficult section of the
route. Sometimes accompanied by
profanity or shaky calf syndrome
(a.k.a. “Elvis leg” or “sewing ma-
chine leg”).

EPIC: Getting in way over your

head and turning a simple climb
into a long and involved process.
Accidentally spending the night on
a route is considered “epicking.”

ETHICS: The local rules of eti-

quette governing a certain place.
Includes everything from bolting
rules to equipment use to what
style of climbing constitutes an ac-
ceptable ascent.

GUMBY: A novice climber charac-

terized by an earnest un- (or over-)
preparedness. Being a gumby can
be endearing—as long as you’re
not endangering anyone around
you.

SHENANIGANS: The complicated

process of correcting mistakes (i.e.,
getting a rope unstuck, bringing
gear to an underprepared partner,
or trying to get back to an anchor
you rappelled past).

5
 TRAD CLIMBING 101 An introduction to the foundational
elements of traditional climbing
A lex and Tommy are icons of free-climbing, a style in
which you can use gear for safety but not for prog-
ress. They’re also accomplished in the aid climbing
technique, in which you use anchors and stand on gear to
assist your climb. And you can’t discuss aid climbing with-
out discussing trad climbing.
WHAT IS TRAD CLIMBING?
For decades, trad climbing—shorthand for traditional
climbing—was the standard style. A climber affixes their
own anchors as they ascend a rock face and then removes
them on the way down. These anchors include pitons
(pegs hammered into a rock seam) and stoppers (tapered
metal wedges or hollow cylinders threaded on a wire and
pushed into crevices).
The traditional style of climbing got a big boost during
the 1970s, when American mountaineer Ray Jardine in-
vented the spring-loaded camming device, a stick with
three or four cam lobes (curved pieces of aluminum) that
expand to fill a crevice. Jardine’s little widget proved to be
a game changer, allowing climbers to deploy protection, or
pro—a catchall term for the gear that climbers affix to rock
walls—faster than pitons and stoppers.
OKAY, SO WHAT'S SPORT CLIMBING?
Throughout the 1980s, the words trad climbing and climb-
ing were used interchangeably, without distinction. The
term traditional was only later added to distinguish from
the increasingly popular variant called sport climbing, an
alternative style associated with pre-bolted climbing
routes. Sport climbing made climbing as a whole far more
accessible to the general public: While trad climbing pri-
marily takes place outside, you can sport climb outdoors
or at an indoor climbing gym. Sport climbing also requires
less equipment, as you can simply clip into preplaced bolts
using carabiner devices and special knots.
Still, many climbers prefer the added challenges (and
naturalistic elements) of trad climbing, as well as the
route-finding factor: Actively looking for the best hand-
hold and foothold combinations and flexing significant
technical knowledge about various anchors and gear re-
main hugely appealing.
WHAT'S UP WITH TRAD CLIMBING GEAR?
IT LOOKS VERY COOL.
It is very cool. In trad climbing, you place protective gear
for safety—meaning you need additional equipment be-
yond what might come in a standard climbing kit. Specifi-
cally, trad climbers use active protection (or active pro)
and passive protection (or passive pro) gear to secure their
ropes and themselves.
Active pro, like the spring-loaded camming device, has
moving parts; passive pro, like a piton or stopper, does
not. The latter type of gear also includes tricams, which
consist of small pieces of metal you can position against
the walls of a crack. Just keep in mind that some protec-
tion exists in a gray area between active and passive. Most
notable in this category is the tube stopper, which has an
expandable telescoping mechanism, allowing you to
wedge it into large cracks (also called off-widths) or holes
where other cams would be too small.
6
WHAT ELSE DO I NEED TO KNOW?
Trad climbing consists of a leader and a follower who
place and remove gear as they ascend their route. You can
break down their actions into eight key practices:
1. ANCHORING
Building a climbing anchor—a construction of gear that can
bear your weight—is one of the most important and chal-
lenging skills. To build an anchor, you can use fixed hard-
ware along your route or gear on your person. In placing a
good anchor, you must be sure what the load (weight) is,
that every piece of gear is correctly angled and redundant
(meaning you’ve incorporated a backup in case one should
fail), and that each piece of gear is independently strong and
placed securely in the rock.
2. CLEANING
Trad climbing requires you to remove your gear after your
climb, a practice known as cleaning. Although you can typi-
cally remove the bulk of trad gear by hand, you might some-
times need to use a nut tool—a device designed specifically
for removing stoppers from rocks.
3. EXTENDING
As you climb, you might need to lengthen (extend) cer-
tain gear by using equipment like quickdraws and long
7
slings, also known as runners. This is a necessary prac-
tice in situations involving gear placements to your left
or right on what would otherwise be a straight, vertical
climb. By extending your gear to connect your rope to
these protection points, you allow your rope to hang
straight up and down rather than zigzag. A zigzagging
rope is dangerous because it causes friction (also called
rope drag), which can weaken the rope or knock gear out
of rock surfaces.
4. LEAD CLIMBING
The lead climber places protection into cracks as they as-
cend; the following climber serves as the belayer below.
At the top of the pitch (a section of a wall or climb), the
lead builds and ties an anchor, pulling up slack in the
rope and coiling it. They then put the follower on their
belay harness (or directly on the anchor) to prepare for
the follower’s climb. As the follower climbs, the lead con-
tinues to pull up additional slack in the rope.
5. FOLLOWING
The following climber ties into the end of the rope oppo-
site the lead, using a figure eight follow-through knot, then
clips into their belay device. The lead ascends the pitch,
placing gear as they go. After they clip into a top anchor,
the follower begins to climb, retrieving removable gear and
organizing it on their harness or sling along the way. At the
top of the pitch, the follower also clips into the anchor.

6. KNOT TYING
Climbers must know many different knots for reasons of
both safety and practicality. Trad climbers frequently use
two knots: a clove hitch, which is good to use when clip-
ping into an anchor because you can adjust the length of
a clove hitch without untying it; and a figure eight on a
bight, which is another secure knot for tying into a har-
ness. (The latter knot is nonadjustable.)
7. RAPPELLING
Rappelling is a method for rapidly descending a rock
wall, and you can use either a single-rope rappel or a
double-rope rappel. The former uses one rope and en-
ables you to rappel as far as half of that rope’s entire
length, while the latter uses a pair of ropes tied together
at an anchor point to allow you to rappel the full length
of the shorter of the two ropes.
8. ROUTE FINDING
Footholds, handholds, and gear placement locations
might not be clear, so trad climbers must scope out any
complex routes during their approach, matching the fea-
tures of the rock with a description in a guidebook or
other resource. Popular routes might have clues—such as
chalked handholds or footholds polished by climbing
shoes—to indicate a path, but good trad climbers know
how to scout these ahead of time.
RED ROCK CANYON
NEVADA, U.S.
NOW I'M REALLY EXCITED. HOW DO I GET STARTED?
Outdoor climbing comes with risk, so it’s important to
have a solid foundation of basic climbing knowledge and
some hands-on experience before you try trad climbing.
Beyond that, take the following into consideration:
SEEK OUT AN INSTRUCTOR. An experienced trad climb-
ing instructor can teach you how to create solid anchors
and place protection so that your climbs are as safe as pos-
sible. Additionally, an instructor can identify other areas of
your climbing technique that you can strengthen while you
attempt easy pitches to gain confidence in the sport.
LEARN THE GEAR. Trad climbing gear sets can be large
and complex, so you should familiarize yourself with the
tools and equipment. Stand at the base of a cliff or big wall
and practice fitting wedges, cams, and stoppers into differ-
ent areas of the rock until you become proficient at it.
FIND A PARTNER YOU TRUST. You can start looking for a
trad climbing partner at your local climbing gym, where an
instructor or staff member can evaluate the skill level of
both you and your would-be partner. For example, an in-
structor can judge your abilities as belayers and as leads
on a single-pitch crag before you and your potential part-
ner move on to more dangerous, multi-pitch routes.
8
 BOOTS ON
THE GROUND
Climbing can take you to an extraordinary array of
natural environments. Each comes with its own
curiosities, surprises—and sensitivities. Stay on
established trails, mind where you step, and leave
these marvels to live and grow another day.

9
 EL CAPITAN
CALIFORNIA, U.S.
VERTICAL ROCK
Over the last thirty years, scientists have begun to see
cliffs as ecosystems unto themselves. Oftentimes home to
clusters of flowers, hardy trees, and an incredible diversity
of bird species, rock outcroppings and cracks form valu-
able habitats. Avoid leaving gear behind. And if you stum-
ble upon a bat colony in a crack or an occupied raptor’s
nest on a ledge, descend immediately.
Don’t sling or grab trees, if you can help it—they trans-
port all their nutrients through a thin layer of wood just
under the bark, and damage to that layer can kill them.
HARZ MOUNTAINS
GERMANY
FOREST
Wooded areas are more forgiving than other environ-
ments, but thick tree cover means an abundance of wild-
life. Keep all food and smelly items in a bear canister while
camping (or when you’re away from your pack). This isn’t
only for your protection. Bears can grow accustomed to
human food—a common issue in busy outdoor spaces like
parks. When that happens, land managers are sometimes
forced to euthanize the animals.
Also be mindful of trail widening and erosion: A num-
ber of plants and wildflowers take advantage of sunlight
along the sides of trails. Root systems are especially vul-
nerable, so if the path is muddy, commit to getting dirty in-
stead of trying to clear it.
10
 BRYCE CANYON
UTAH, U.S.
DESERT
In many deserts, a delicate living crust covers the soil, pre-
venting erosion and trapping moisture. One step can de-
stroy these fragile communities of organisms, which are
called cryptobiotic soils and can take several decades to
grow. Stay on trails and in ravines when possible.
Another underfoot wonder: Fleeting desert puddles
are home to complex microorganisms that can survive
temperatures up to 140°F. But they’re sensitive to distur-
bance. So be on the lookout, and don’t go splashing
through these spots.
11 
BEARTOOTH HIGHWAY
WYOMING, U.S.
ALPINE TUNDRA
In high-altitude environments, a carpet of tiny wildflowers
and mosses takes advantage of the short growing season
above the treeline. Footsteps destroy these fragile envi-
ronments, which can take hundreds of years to recover.
Stay on established trails, rocks, gravel, snow, and other
durable surfaces.
Mountain goats are notorious for becoming habituated
to humans and, in some cases, acting aggressively. Mean-
while, bighorn sheep—like those near Cody, Wyoming, in
the high-elevation U.S. Plains—have been known to spook
at the sight of ice climbers, which can literally frighten the
animals to death. Keep your distance.
 MOUNT EVEREST Protect Our Winters
NEPAL AND TIBET Unpredictable weather and
warmer temperatures are putting
ice- and snow-climbing routes on
the endangered list. Tommy has
teamed up with Protect Our
Winters (POW) to help the world
change course

The story of Protect Our Winters

(POW) begins with Jeremy Jones.
Jones, an American professional
snowboarder, had noticed the
snowpack dwindling across the
American West; he felt compelled
to do something about it but
couldn’t find any organizations fo-
cused on bringing athletes of snow
sports together to combat the im-
pact of climate change. So he start-
ed his own. POW, a registered
U.S.-based nonprofit, launched in
2007. Beyond raising awareness
and advocating for climate change
legislation, Jones wanted to inspire
his fellow outdoor enthusiasts to
take action.
It worked. In 2019, Tommy joined
Jones to launch a dedicated climb-
ing division, POW Climb, within the
organization. “It’s time to give the
climbing community a platform to
speak up about climate change,”
ICE AND SNOW Tommy said in a statement an-
nouncing the partnership.
The good news: Ice and snow are considered durable sur- Today, POW and POW Climb
continue to work on educating vot-
faces. Because they’re self-healing, feel free to tread on
ers and fighting for clean-energy
them at will. The bad news: Across the world, classic ice solutions, leveraging a roster of
flows and snow climbs are rapidly vanishing due to cli- elite athlete partners to get the
mate change. Limiting impact in these places requires ac- word out. It’s an issue that’s close to
tion beyond the crag (see sidebar). Tommy’s heart: “As a climber and a
With ice climbs, it’s best practice to give the ice a rest at father, I’m seeing the impacts of cli-
mate change firsthand and feel the
the beginning of the season to let flows fully form. Over- need to do everything in my power
use leaves the climb looking like Swiss cheese. If an ice to protect my children’s futures.” He
route appears to be chewed up, allow it some time to rest encourages you to do the same.
and recover naturally.
Learn more—or join Tommy and get
involved—at protectourwinters.org.

12
 Soft Rock
Some sandstones are so soft, you can rub them away with your
fingertips. Here are a few fun facts to guide your climbing in these zones
Waste Not, Want Not
Human waste doesn’t
decompose in dry environ-
Dry Run time and occasion- rubbing it away—let ments like deserts or alpine
Many sandstones ally fall over. Check others share the ex- zones. Learn how not to
soften after rain, for land manager perience of visiting dispose of your dung from
causing holds to permission before a wild-looking place. these case studies
crumble and cracks climbing. Then pro-
to widen with hu- ceed with caution. Cracking On
man traffic. A good In some places, like 1. Mount Whitney,
test: Kick up some Getting Groovy the Czech Republic, California, U.S.
dust at the base of a Ropes can saw some rock is so soft Mount Whitney used to have
climb. If it flies away, grooves into soft that metal protec- composting toilets for hikers
climb. If it’s damp, sandstone over a tion is disallowed. and climbers. By 2007, heli-
even a few inches short period of time. Instead, climbers copters were airlifting 4,000
down, give the rock Try to avoid stuff knotted rope pounds of human waste
another day or two top-roping when an into cracks to catch each year. That made the toi-
to dry. anchor is set back them if they fall. lets logistically impractical
from the edge and Always check—and to maintain; eventually, they
Arch Nemesis rappel down. obey—the local were removed. Packing out
Because sandstone rules wherever (read: collecting for later dis-
is so soft, it’s prone Desert Varnish you climb. posal) human waste is man-
to eroding into fan- The dark veneer datory, but not everybody is
tastic shapes, in- that appears on committed to proper dispos-
cluding twisting some sandstones al. Used WAG (“Waste Allevi-
spires and delicate can take thousands ation and Gelling”) bags and
arches. These fea- of years to form. unsightly excrement are now
tures weaken over Avoid scratching or major eyesores on the trail.

2. Mount Everest, Nepal

In 2015, Ang Tshering, then
the president of the Nepal
Mountaineering Association,
warned that poop was one of
the single biggest threats to
climbing access on Mount
Everest. Decades of buried
waste—more than 26,000
pounds per season—adds
up over time. The solution?
Pack it out instead.

3. Denali, Alaska, USA

Since 1951, climbers have
been chucking their waste
into crevasses in the Kahiltna
Glacier instead of packing it
out. The glacier now holds an
estimated 152,000 pounds
of human excrement, all
slowly flowing downhill. Ex-
perts estimate that waste will
begin to emerge in 2025 and
eventually seep into the
Kahiltna River.

13 

The Clean Climbing
Revolution
With their focus on conservation-
ism, Alex and Tommy are part of a
proud, longstanding tradition:
climbers who have been seeking
to minimize their environmental
impact for decades
Like anything in its infancy, early
climbing was haphazard. The oldest
means of protecting routes involved
hammering metal wedges and pi-
tons into rock cracks. It worked
pretty well, save for one problem:
The fixtures were permanent, and
even those that could be removed
left irreversible marks on the rocks,
scarring the beautiful natural land-
scapes.
In 1972, three influential outdoor
enthusiasts—Yvon Chouinard, Tom
RED ROCK CANYON
NEVADA, USA
Frost, and Doug Robinson—issued
a joint statement to the climbing
community: Hammering all that
metal into the rock wasn’t okay. It
was destroying the experience of
climbing, as well as the aesthetics.
Climbers took heed. The 1970s
saw widespread adoption of remov-
able gear like nuts and hexes in lieu
of pitons. Today, that philosophy of
low-impact climbing remains, ex-
tending not only to hammered-in
protection but also to excessive
drilled bolts, manufactured holds,
and other permanent alterations to
the rock’s surface. The details are
ever evolving, but the clean-climb-
ing decree forever changed climb-
ers’ relationship with their natural
environment. And it was critical in
establishing the ideology that Alex
and Tommy adhere to now: Climb-
ing areas are a precious resource,
and it’s up to climbers to protect it.
14
 LEAVE NO TRACE
Alex and Tommy are staunch advocates of the Leave
No Trace approach to outdoors ethics. The concept
encompasses seven main principles—think of them as
the high commandments of responsible outdoor climbing

1. PLAN AHEAD AND PREPARE

Do your research, devote adequate time to trip planning, and bring
the right gear. This will both help you manage risk and limit damage
to the land.

2. TRAVEL AND CAMP ON DURABLE SURFACES

Hike, climb, and sleep on rock, dirt, and snow whenever possible.
Avoid stepping off-trail.

3. DISPOSE OF WASTE PROPERLY

If you pack it in, pack it out. That includes poop: Climbing crags are
crowded, and human waste takes years to decompose. Use a WAG
Bag (and pack it out rather than leaving it on-site!).

4. LEAVE WHAT YOU FIND

Rare artifact? Beautiful flower? If you’re not 100 percent certain of
the significance it could hold for a local community or ecosystem,
leave it be.

5. MINIMIZE CAMPFIRE IMPACTS

Poorly managed campsites cause a considerable number of de-
structive wildfires. Avoid building a campfire in areas affected by
drought. If you do have a fire, douse it completely with water, regard-
less of the forecast.

6. RESPECT WILDLIFE
Don’t harass, feed, or get too close to wildlife. Always follow bear-
safe food-storage regulations.

7. BE CONSIDERATE OF OTHER VISITORS

Respecting the land means respecting its people. Be mindful of oth-
er users’ experiences, especially when it comes to music, unleashed
pets, and right-of-way on trails (see page 20).

Read the full description of each principle at LNT.org

15 
 BASIC CLIMBING
ETIQUETTE
The first rule of climbing: Have the know-how to properly care
for yourself and your crew. The safer and more streamlined
you are outdoors, the less likely you are to endanger yourself
or other climbers. Arrive prepared and self-sufficient by
adhering to the following best practices

1 2 3 4
Stick to routes you can Suspect a route might Pack the right equip- Bring emergency
positively identify, be past your limit? ment, and know how to items like a personal
consulting guidebooks Bring bail gear just use it. locator beacon and a
when needed. in case. first-aid kit.

5 6 7 8
Learn to rappel and Teach your friends Bring an experienced Take a self-rescue
clean anchors at a gym Leave No Trace (see belayer. course and brush up on
before testing your page 15) and other your first-aid basics.
skills outside. climbing ethics.

17 
RED ROCK CANYON
NEVADA, U.S.
 Be My Neighbor
One great thing about the climbing
community: When the going gets
tough, everyone has one another’s
back. Your peers—even if they’re
complete strangers—will frequently
show remarkable kindness in a
challenging or dangerous situation.
When It’s Busy Here are some of the best ways you
Outdoor climbing routes, especially at popular destinations, can reciprocate and help keep oth-
can get crowded. Here are some tips for sharing the space ers safe (and a few bad behaviors
you should always avoid).

KEEP A TIDY STAGING AREA. Contain the sprawl of ropes,

DO offer to let newcomers look
backpacks, helmets, and other gear, and avoid belaying or
at your guidebook if they seem
leaving stuff on the trail. Keep dogs leashed and small children
lost or confused.
under close watch.
DO watch out for unsafe belay
TURN DOWN THE TUNES. Avoid playing loud music or
techniques, incomplete tie-in knots,
wearing earphones—it can make it difficult for others to hear
or other hazards. Politely alert
belay commands. If you do want to play music quietly, get
the climber involved if you believe
verbal confirmation that other climbers are okay with it first.
life or limb is in danger.
ASK POLITELY. If there are others standing near a route
DON’T offer beta about how to do
you’re interested in, ask about their plans before you start
certain moves unless the climber
climbing. If they’ve called dibs, ask to hop on afterward.
specifically asks for your advice—
many people like to figure out
SHARE THE CLIMB. Wonderful routes deserve to be shared.
the puzzle for themselves.
Be mindful of how long you and your crew have been occupying
a route. If others are waiting, let them work into your rotation,
DO share stick clips and other
or move on to something else.
gear that help reduce risk.
PULL YOUR ROPES. If you take a break from climbing, pull
DON’T shout encouragement
your ropes first. That way, other parties aren’t left wondering
at climbers you don’t know—some
if the route is in use.
people find it distracting.
COMMUNICATE. If you want to pass a slow party, share an an-
DO congratulate other climbers
chor, or climb or belay close to someone for any other reason,
on a job well done after they
ask if they’re comfortable sharing the space. If a party says no
reach the ground.
or appears nervous, don’t push it. Likewise, if you’re taking a
long time on a climb and other parties ask to pass, consider
DO shout “ROCK!” if you spot a
your comfort level and be as gracious as you can.
falling object, drop something,
or kick a rock loose from above.
LEAVE WHAT YOU FIND. Spot some loose gear along a sport
climbing route? Leave it there. Ditto for carabiners or fixed gear,
DON’T create rockfall risk by
especially if you suspect they’re part of a rappel anchor. (The
climbing or walking directly below
climbers will need those to get back down!)
or above other climbers. (And
never, ever throw rocks off a
ledge on purpose.)

DO clearly state your partner’s name

whenever shouting a command.
That way, you avoid confusing other
climbers or belayers in the area.

DO offer to help if you see someone

experiencing panic en route or while
belaying, or if a first-aid issue arises.

19 

Crag Dogs
Most climbers love dogs. But even
the most ardent canine advocates
don’t always want pups around
while they’re hitting the rocks.
That’s because dogs tend to exhibit
different behavior at the cliff than
they do at home. Some get nervous
or protective, especially when their
human companions are far off the
ground; others get excited being
outdoors and chase after wildlife,
knocking rocks onto climbers or
hikers. And if your dog gets into a
scuffle while you’re cruxing out,
there’s not much you’ll be able to
do to mitigate the situation.
For those reasons, land manag-
ers and climbing advocacy organi-
GOBLIN VALLEY
UTAH, U.S.
zations often recommend leaving
your dog at home, especially if they
can’t be counted on to come when
called or react calmly to other peo-
ple and pets 100 percent of the
time. If you must bring your dog,
make sure to keep him on a leash,
pack out all pet waste (it’s just as
bad for the environment as human
waste), and make sure he’s super-
vised at all times.
20
 BADGES
OF HONOR
We get it: Following a
bunch of rules can
feel like a drag. But
these unofficial
“badges” might make it
a little more fun.
Have you earned yours?
Wrapper Wizard Dandelion Defender
Caught that little corner of your grano- Peed on a durable surface instead
la bar wrapper before it blew away of delicate vegetation

Chalk Ninja WAG Bag Warrior Falconer

Scooped up spilled chalk at the crag Used a WAG Bag before, during, or after Respected a raptor closure and
a climb (and actually packed it out) climbed somewhere else instead

Endurance Title Tree Hugger Good Samaritan

Took the long way around instead of Built a rock anchor instead of Packed out someone else’s used
cutting switchbacks slinging a tree WAG Bag (you get all the gold stars)

21 
CANYONLANDS
UTAH, U.S.
 PUBLIC LAND vs.
PRIVATE LAND
Most land can be classified as public (government owned
and often available to everyone) or private (owned by an
individual, a business, or an organization, like a developer).
Each has its own rules of engagement

PUBLIC LAND
In the U.S., the majority of outdoor climbing takes place on
public land, where about 60 percent of climbing areas are
government managed, and plenty more exist within regional
and municipal parks. The upside: Climbing on public land is
usually cheap or free. The downside: Because it’s an open re-
source, public land might be shared by thousands of people
each year, which adds up to enormous environmental strain.
DIFFERENT LANDS, DIFFERENT RULES
There are many types of public land, and each has its own
rules. These can vary by country, region, or even munici-
pality. In the U.S., where Alex and Tommy were born and
still reside, public land is usually managed by one of three
government organizations: the U.S. Forest Service (USFS),
the National Park Service (NPS), or the Bureau of Land
Management (BLM). Areas overseen by BLM have a repu-
tation for being more primitive—amenities like toilets and
trash cans can be scarce, putting the onus on the climber
to bring what they need for a safe, responsible visit. Mean-
while, the NPS has more stringent wilderness protections.
It’s more likely to require permits, limit bolting and/or
power drilling, and strictly enforce ecological precautions.
Before you head to a new area, determine which entity
in your country or region is managing the land. Check (and
double-check!) its website, noting any regulations and
calling in with any questions or potential issues. And when
in doubt, do your best to follow Leave No Trace best prac-
tices (see page 15) and preserve the wild feel of the place.
According to Alex, your goal here is to make sure that
when you leave, the next person can have the same experi-
ence that you had.
THE CLIMBING BOOM
“Climbing has increased in popularity exponentially,” says
Alex. “Even in the twenty-five years that I’ve climbed, I’ve
seen incredible growth.” Part of that, Tommy adds, is due
to the influx of indoor rock gyms, which have made the
sport more accessible to newcomers. He says the climbing
community has probably increased tenfold in the last de-
cade alone. The COVID-19 pandemic only added to the

23 
boom, with both new and experienced indoor climbers
moving their activities outside.
While Alex and Tommy are some of the sport’s most
vocal advocates, they emphasize that conservationism
and responsible behavior are more important now than
ever. Crowds are already exacerbating the existing prob-
lems in popular climbing areas; even the land managers at
historically under-visited locations have reported pileups
of garbage and human waste..
LIMITING IMPACT
In order to mitigate the increased environmental impact,
some land managers have instituted new permits, fees, or
reservation systems. To avoid those kinds of access
restrictions, it’s up to climbers to self-regulate—stay on
trails and established belay spots, avoid trampling
vegetation, and pack out all trash and human waste. Also
be sure to research and obey any closures—across the
world, many crags on public land close for seasonal
happenings, including raptor nesting and Indigenous
ceremonies.
And while you should always educate yourself about
the ecological concerns of specific areas before climbing
there, this is especially important on public land.
Biologists and other researchers are often actively
monitoring the area. If one climber disturbs a sensitive
plant or animal species, all climbers could be courteously
uninvited from a public space.
PRIVATE LAND
Some of the biggest battles for climbing access take place on
private land. From fear of liability to dissatisfaction with the
behavior of some climbers in the past, private landowners
have reasons for keeping their land to themselves. But by es-
tablishing a mutual trust and goodwill with these landown-
ers, climbers can secure entry to some of the world’s most in-
credible routes..
RIGHT TO ROAM
First, it’s important to note that land proprietorship is a
bigger deal in some nations than in others. If you’re in a
country with “right-to-roam” laws, like the United King-
dom, you’ll likely cross private fields over the course of
your climbing career. That said, be sure to double-check
the law to determine that there are no exceptions along
your route. In countries without right-to-roam laws, how-
ever, you may have to do a little more homework..
GETTING PERMISSION
Climbing on private parcels—or crossing them in order to
access public land—can be almost unavoidable. (In the
U.S., for example, 95 percent of the state of Texas is pri-
vately owned.) This means that gaining access to certain
spots can take years of discussion and careful relationship
building. If you’re in a country with strict private-land pro-
tections, make sure the landowners have given their ex-
press permission for climbers to recreate on or pass
through their property.
When it comes to checking the current access status of
a piece of private land, first try a local climbing organiza-
tion. In the U.S., the Access Fund, a climbing-advocacy
nonprofit, is the go-to resource for nationwide access
news. The organization works with local partners that
monitor even more granular information on local issues,
and similar entities probably exist in your region. Commu-
nity mountaineering clubs are another great resource for
intel about nearby climbing spots, as are climbing gyms
and specialty stores. Visit an indoor facility or gear shop in
any city, ask the staff about local crags, and you’re likely to
get solid advice.
Next are online sources. There are a number of search-
able web databases of climbing routes, like the U.S.-based
mountainproject.com and Australia’s thecrag.com. Both
include access notes for specific climbing areas. With a lit-
tle digging, you can almost certainly find similar resources
that are specific to your region.
If all else fails, locate the landowner and ask permission
before you go exploring. And if you’re told to keep away, give
them a smile, thank them for their time, and do exactly that.
GOOD HOUSEGUESTS
Any time you’re on private land, don’t leave trash, walk
off-trail, forget to close livestock gates behind you, or
block driveways or roadways with your vehicle. “When
you leave the place that you’re climbing, it should be in the
same state as when you arrived,” explains Alex. Basically,
treat the land as you would someone’s home—like you’re a
guest who’s just visiting, Tommy adds. Because on private
land, you are.
24
MONUMENT VALLEY
ARIZONA, U.S.
 CONSCIOUS CLIMBING
Public Land

Fill out appropriate

permits, and pay ac-
cess fees if required.

Treat land managers

and their representa-
Both
tives with respect.
Stay on trails.
Respect all closures—
seasonal or otherwise. Avoid leaving trash
and waste, or defacing
Obey regulations re- rocks with graffiti. Private Land
garding bolting and/or
power drill use. Leave open gates
Seek landowner
open; shut closed
permission before
Feel free to share loca- gates behind you.
climbing.
tion information with
other climbers. Don’t remove
Maintain good
vegetation or build
relationships with
structures without
landowners.
permission.
Address landowner
Respect designated
concerns promptly.
access times.
Don’t share crag
Don’t block gates or
information without
driveways.
landowner permission.

Treat other user

Understand that
groups with respect.
landowners take on
significant liability
when climbers use
their land.

26
 INDIGENOUS LAND
Many areas now used for public recreation once
belonged to Indigenous people—and many still do.
When climbing here, doing your due diligence to
ensure a respectful, conscientious interaction
with the space is an absolute necessity
For a climber, it’s easy to imagine
you’re alone among the cliffs and
towers—and that famed ascension-
ists were the first to stand atop them.
In truth, human beings have been
drawn to stone formations since
time immemorial. In North America,
nearly all mountain ranges and crags
were inhabited (and, in some cases,
climbed) by Indigenous people for
hundreds—if not thousands—of
years before settlers arrived from
overseas. For those inhabitants and
posterity, many of these areas hold
deep spiritual meaning. And some
rock formations are still used as
ceremonial sites by Indigenous
people today.
Accordingly, it’s incumbent upon
climbers to approach Indigenous
lands with deference. Devils Tower
in the U.S., for example, is considered
sacred by more than 20 Native
American tribes, and traditional cer-
emonies take place around the tower
each summer; out of respect, climb-
ers adhere to a voluntary closure ev-
ery June. On Mount Taranaki, in
New Zealand, climbers avoid stand-
ing directly on the summit of the
mountain, which is considered to be
an important life force and ancestor
of the native Maori people.
Sometimes, climbers might need
to avoid certain sites entirely. This is
true in the case of Uluru, known as
Ayer’s Rock, a once-popular outdoor
27 
recreational spot in central Australia.
Uluru is also a holy place for the Ab-
original people who own the land.
(They have inhabited the area for
more than 30,000 years.) So instanc-
es of climbers drinking, defecating,
and occasionally frolicking naked on
the mountain were particularly dis-
respectful and troubling. In October
of 2019, land managers agreed to of-
ficially close the area to climbing.
It’s a reminder that recreational
climbing is—well, recreational. Just
as you wouldn’t kick a ball inside
someone’s home (much less their
place of worship) without asking
first, it’s essential that you seek per-
mission, be self-aware, and act with
respect when climbing on lands that
are home to Indigenous people. Any-
thing less perpetuates a long-stand-
ing and cruel narrative that the rights
of Native people don’t matter.
Climbers today can help correct
that narrative by acknowledging the
land’s original owners and advocat-
ing for the rights of local tribes in
land management decisions whenev-
er possible. In doing so, you’ll be
championing the people who are
most invested in (and, oftentimes,
best positioned to) continue protect-
ing the beautiful, wondrous places
that you love most.
Best Practices
for Climbing on
Indigenous Land
Whenever you walk on public
lands, you’re walking through
someone’s ancestral home. Here’s
how to be a good houseguest
Acknowledge Indigenous spaces
Research before climbing some-
where new. If you post on social
media, refer to peaks by their Na-
tive names and acknowledge the
land’s original owners to signal re-
spect and gratitude. (Remind your
followers to do the same!)
Follow tribal protocols
Check local land manager or tribal
websites before you climb. Obey
tribal protocols that prohibit climb-
ing, entering certain areas, or visit-
ing at certain times of the year.
Welcome Indigenous climbers
In many places, Indigenous climb-
ers have been excluded from mod-
ern adventure culture—even when
those adventures have taken place
on their lands. New climbers come
from all backgrounds. Bring them
into the fold, and avoid banter that
could make a Native person feel
disparaged.
Leave no trace
Pick up after yourself, don’t take
anything that doesn’t belong to you
(see sidebar), and stay on trails and
durable surfaces.
Support Indigenous people
Traveling through? Hire a Native
guide. Need gear? Purchase from
Indigenous-owned businesses.
Hosting an event? Hire local artists
and presenters who have a cultural
link to the land.
 DEVILS TOWER
WYOMING, U.S.

BIG PHOTO
 LOOK, BUT DON’T TOUCH
In many areas, stealing or destroying artifacts is a crime.
Tampering with them isn’t much better. The oils on your skin
can degrade the delicate surfaces of pottery shards, cave
paintings, and other historical objects. Keep an eye out for
cultural remnants—and enjoy from a distance

Arrowheads and Grinding stones

projectile points Rocks with shallow, circular depres-
Sharpened stones used for hunting. sions typically used to prepare food.

Petroglyphs Cairns and stone walls

Patterns or images carved or Piled rocks used as way markers and
chipped into rock. to drive game.

29 
Cliff structures Pottery shards
Stacked-stone walls guarding al- Bits of smooth, shaped clay, some-
coves. Used as homes or granaries. times patterned or painted.

Hammerstones Pictographs
Rounded chunks of rock used for Patterns or images painted onto rock.
pounding. Often pocked or battered.

Baskets and sandals Kivas

Panels or rounds of woven fiber. Sunken, circular rooms used for ev-
Sometimes patterned or painted. eryday and/or ceremonial purposes.

30
CLIMBS WORTH SAVING
Get to know the world’s most iconic climbing areas

31 
LEGEND
Fitz Roy Massif
El Capitan
Indian Creek
Mont Blanc
Rocklands

32
Fitz Roy Massif, Patagonia, Argentina
Elevation: 11,171 feet
Relief: 6,400 feet
First documented ascent: 1952
(Guido Magnone and Lionel Terray)
Strongest winds: 110 mph

33 
 As storied as Shangri-la and as mythical as Atlantis,
Patagonia sits at the farthest edges of the inhabitable
earth. It’s a place of wonder and mystery, luminous in-
spiration and deep controversy. But unlike those other
utopias, this one is real.
“The landscape is so fantastic in the real sense of
the word,” says Alex. “Being there at all feels like this
incredible privilege.”
Indeed, Patagonia is an alpine wonderland, a
400,000-square-mile swath of toothy ridges and gla-
ciated basins spanning the southern tip of South
America. The land is home to seemingly limitless rock,
much of it yet unclimbed. And while Patagonia bristles
with soaring granite towers, there is perhaps none
better known than Fitz Roy.
The Fitz Roy Massif—also known by its original
name, Chaltén—is home to world-famous alpine
free-climbing on clean, vertical granite. But it’s no
place for rookies; this zone is reserved for expert al-
pinists. (The winds are strong enough to destroy por-
taledges and suck ropes straight from the cliffside.) As
such, its walls have long served as a canvas for new
styles, big ideas, and bold statements from some of
professional climbing’s most ambitious and accom-
plished figures. In February 2014, Tommy and Alex
shocked the climbing world when they became the
first known climbers to traverse the formation’s entire
ridgeline, a five-day push that carried them across
seven summits, including the mighty Fitz Roy.
“I would say the Fitz Traverse is one of the more
iconic jagged ridgelines in the world,” Tommy says. “It
was also for climbing one of these great objectives
that people had been thinking about for a really long
time.” And the team completed it despite failing gear
and freezing conditions.
While snow, ice, and mercurial weather will always
be a part of the Patagonian experience, other more
troubling changes have become evident in recent
years: receding glaciers, crumbling moraines, and
sloughing rock. All are symptoms of climate change.
But at least there’s hope in the battle against other
threats: In recent years, groups like Tompkins Conser-
vation, which was founded by American adventurers
Doug and Kristine Tompkins, have funded the pur-
chase and rewilding of Patagonian landscapes. The
project has saved millions of acres from destructive
agricultural practices and returned them to Chile and
Argentina as national parks, preserving them for gen-
erations to come.

34
El Capitan, Yosemite National Park,
California, U.S.
Height: 3,000 feet
Elevation: 7,569 feet
First documented climb: “The Nose” (1958;
Warren Harding, George Whitmore, and
Wayne Merry)
Hardest free route: “The Dawn Wall” (2015;
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson)

35 
 El Capitan rises like a shield, soaring from the Yo-
semite Valley floor to a seemingly impossible height
of roughly 3,000 feet. In the morning sun, the rock
formation’s pure granite almost shines, as if the
whole thing is made of silver, shrouded in history and
patinated by time. It’s hard to understate the role that
El Capitan—or El Cap, for short—has played in the
history of hard trad climbing, especially in North
America. “El Cap is probably the most iconic rock
climbing wall in the world,” says Tommy.
He’s right. This is where a battery of mountaineer-
ing tactics were invented (do a web search and read
about Warren Harding’s forty-seven–day ascent of
“The Nose” in 1958), where the modern style of clean
climbing was pioneered (see page 14 for more)—and
where gender ceilings have been shattered. In 1993,
Lynn Hill became the first recorded person, man or
woman, to free-climb “The Nose”; a year later, she
became the first person to do so in a single day.
Progress being progress, Tommy and Alex later
climbed “The Nose” in under two hours. There are
now about one hundred established routes to the
summit. Yet the monolith remains both a pilgrimage
site and a proving ground for climbers, as well as a
fixture of fascination in the minds of the general pub-
lic. In 2015, when Tommy and his climbing partner
Kevin Jorgeson free-climbed the “Dawn Wall”—still
considered the hardest big wall in the world—the
feat received coverage from the U.K.’s British Broad-
casting Corporation and Qatar’s Al Jazeera Media
Network. Emily Harrington wound up on American
cable news and in The New York Times when she be-
came the first woman known to free-climb El Cap’s
famed “Golden Gate” route in one day in 2020.
That level of popularity comes at a predictable
cost: El Cap has seen its fair share of wear and tear. In
2021, the National Park Service at Yosemite institut-
ed a permit system designed to regulate traffic. This
came in response to an overload of abandoned
equipment and human waste on the wall. But over-
use isn’t the only threat. In recent years, wildfires
have ravaged Yosemite as heat waves on the West
Coast of America continue to break records.
These threats have galvanized conscientious
climbers: Organizations like the Yosemite Conservan-
cy are working to maintain the trails and base areas
surrounding the peak, and discussions continue
about how to reduce impact on the wall itself. Other
groups, like POW Climb (see page 12) are fighting to
address climate change. With that spirit of coopera-
tion, El Cap isn’t just a symbol of what American
climbing has been in the past—with any luck, it’ll be-
come the template for securing a better future.

36
Indian Creek, Bears Ears
National Monument, Utah, U.S.
First climbed: c. 1500; likely earlier
(Ancestral Puebloan people)
First climb recorded: 1962, “Southeast
Chimney” (Huntley Ingalls, Steve Komito,
and Maurice Horn)
Highest recorded temp: 114°F
Lowest recorded temp: -24°F

37 
 The place feels spiritual. Even if you aren’t religious,
even if you don’t believe in anything at all, it’s hard to
leave Indian Creek without a bone-deep sense of awe
at the existence of something so mighty. Located on
the outskirts of tourist hot spots like Canyonlands
National Park and Arches National Park, the Creek is
a climber’s warren, a maze of red Wingate sandstone
cliffs split by cracks that soar for one hundred feet or
more without interruption. Moderate routes are rare,
and bolted climbs are rarer still. But for a confident
trad leader, Indian Creek is heaven on earth.
From across the world, climbers come here to
learn and test their mettle. They keep coming back,
year after year, to savor the surreal experience of as-
cending fissures that remain perfectly uniform from
start to bottom. It’s not uncommon to see a climber
carrying a dozen spring-loaded cams. To assemble
such a gear rack, you need friends—a lot of them—
and community rules at Indian Creek. In this remote
patch of desert, miles from cell service, running wa-
ter, or gasoline, climbers communicate via printed
notes tacked to bulletin boards. Sharing gear is the
norm, and in the desolate landscape, there’s a perva-
sive sense that everyone is on the same side.
To that end, Creek climbers tend to be good at
self-policing. It’s necessary. For all its rock and sand,
this is a surprisingly fragile environment, laced to-
gether by delicate cryptobiotic soils that can be
crushed beneath a single footprint, as well as talus
slopes that are prone to erosion. Artifacts are every-
where. And the future of the area remains uncertain;
while Indian Creek is currently protected as part of a
proclamation by former U.S. president Barack
Obama, the oil, gas, and mining industries have been
circling the surrounding lands since 2017, when Don-
ald Trump slashed original protections by 85 per-
cent. Climbers pick up the slack, striving to be vigi-
lant about packing out waste, giving cryptobiotic
soils and cultural artifacts a wide berth, and fighting
for protection against encroaching development.
And this place is worth saving. Sitting beneath the
cliffs on a clear day, you can see down-valley for
miles, looking over the ancient cottonwoods lining
the creek, all framed by snow-capped mountains
and an endless deep blue sky; when the sun sets,
sandstone towers form deep silhouettes against the
purple dusk. Climbers wind their way home by head-
lamp, dispersing to camps surrounded by cacti and
juniper. They crack open beers, share stories, and
wait for the air to cool. If you aren’t convinced that
conservationism is a worthy endeavor, spend one
night at Indian Creek. It’ll make you a true believer.

38
Mont Blanc, Alps, Western Europe
Elevation: 15,777 feet
Vertical relief: 15,387 feet
Glaciated terrain: 40 square miles
First known summit: (Michel-Gabriel Paccard
and Jacques Balmat)

39 
 Straddling the border of France and Italy, the Mont
Blanc Massif looms over a lush valley bottom. The
mountain isn’t so much a singular peak as it is a hulk-
ing mass of land tipped vertical. Its crown is painted
thick with snowfields and glaciers, guarded by an ac-
cordion of furrowed foothills. Adding to the allure: It’s
the highest peak in Western Europe and one of the
most vertically prominent peaks in the world.
After numerous failed (and deadly) attempts to
summit Mont Blanc, a cash reward was eventually
put forward—and ultimately won by two locals: town
doctor Michel-Gabriel Paccard and crystal peddler
Jacques Balmat. This ascent, conducted for equal
parts knowledge and glory, is widely considered the
birth of modern European alpinism.
Age hasn’t taken off the edge. Today, the moun-
tain’s flanks are covered with thousands of routes,
from proud alpiner lines to sport climbing and boul-
dering. While its lower reaches (and even some gla-
ciers) are now accessible by tram and ski lift, the
mountain seems to actively defends its formidable
reputation: Mont Blanc has the greatest fatality rate
of any peak in Europe. Despite that—or perhaps be-
cause of it—the site remains one of the Continent’s
most popular spots.
While Mont Blanc’s glaciers are, like many others,
dwindling under the swelter of global warming, it’s
the flora and fauna that have become the center of
conservationists’ attention. You can see why: Red
deer, red foxes, and fire salamanders flit between
dappled shadows on the lower slopes; golden eagles
can be spotted soaring overhead. On the ledges and
crack systems that vein across the mountain’s many
faces, tiny alpine wildflowers and lichens cling to the
rock, eking out a living above 11,000 feet. All told,
some 430,000 species call the massif home. The
biodiversity here is astounding.
In 2020, French president Emmanuel Macron an-
nounced a plan to create a nature reserve around the
massif and to limit visitors to protect the area’s rich
biodiversity. On a mountain that has been closed for
overcrowding and drawn ire for abandoned trash,
this is a big first step for preserving the history and
legacy of Paccard and Balmat’s first ascent: moun-
taineering in part for glory—and in part for science.

40
Rocklands, South Africa
Boulder problems (routes): 2,000+
First inhabited: c. 128,000 BCE; likely
earlier
First ascents recorded: 1996 (Todd Skinner
and Fred Nicole)
Climbing permit price: R80 ($5.68) per day

41 
 Rocklands is exactly what it sounds like: a vast out-
pouring of arches, fins, and ochre-striped sandstone
carved into fantastic sculptures by time. This might
be the careful work of nature, but the formations ap-
pear random; they beg to be scaled, to be solved.
With more than 2,000 routes and room for opening
more, the place is a boulderer’s paradise.
Western climbers first stumbled upon Rocklands
in the 1990s, when American alpinist Todd Skinner
went to South Africa in search of sport climbing
routes. Skinner, along with legendary Swiss boulder-
er Fred Nicole, soon set to work establishing modern
documented ascents. Over the past decade, the area
has exploded in popularity, becoming a truly global
destination, its bizarre and gorgeous boulders now
magazine cover darlings. And the striped sandstone
is only part of the area’s beauty. Between the rocks,
you’ll find an astounding variety of delicate flowers,
many of which are unique to the region. Rocklands is
also home to baboons, the occasional leopard, and
spotted, cat-like omnivores called genets.
Unfortunately, the area has taken punishment
from the sudden influx of climbers. Over the past de-
cade, the local farmers who own the boulder fields
have reported a growing spiderweb of makeshift
trails, each unofficial path a strip of vegetation tram-
pled barren. Other problems are even more overt. In
2013, one landowner closed all her farmland to
climbing after finding erosion, graffiti, human waste,
toilet paper, and a damaged fence. New regulations
went into effect the following year, and all climbers
are now required to purchase a permit prior to visit-
ing. Still, the impacts from less scrupulous tourists
during the boom remain apparent, especially to
those living and working in and around Rocklands.
Local economics are a concern as well. The
COVID-19 pandemic brought issues of tenuous land
ownership into sharp focus: When global tourism
came to a standstill, news spread that five local farm-
ers had been forced to consider selling their tracts. A
fundraising campaign drew donations from climbers
around the world, so none of the landowners had to
sell. For farmers and climbers alike, that community
spirit represented a spark of hope—if climbers come
back to Rocklands with that kind of commitment to
stewardship, the area should continue thriving for
decades to come.

42
MOUNT EVEREST
NEPAL AND TIBET
 THE ROUTE AHEAD
Climbing is a journey of lifelong learning.
Keep your skills sharp by adding these re-
sources to your queue

CLIMBING HISTORY AND CULTURE:

Alone on the Wall | Alex Honnold and David Roberts
The Push: A Climber’s Journey of Endurance, Risk, and Going
Beyond Limits | Tommy Caldwell
Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs | John Long
The Enormocast podcast | Chris Kalous
Climbing Gold podcast | Alex Honnold and Fitz Cahall

STEWARDSHIP, INCLUSION, AND ETHICS:

The Adventure Gap: Changing the Face of the Outdoors |
James Edward Mills
The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro
Torre | Kelly Cordes
As Long as Grass Grows: The Indigenous Fight for
Environmental Justice, From Colonization to Standing Rock |
Dina Gilio-Whitaker

SKILLS AND RISK MANAGEMENT:

Climbing Anchors | John Long and Bob Gaines
Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as
Athlete | Scott Johnston and Steve House
Trad Climber’s Bible | John Long and Peter Croft
Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock
Climbing | Don McGrath and Jeff Elison
The Sharp End podcast | Ashley Saupe

44
 CREDITS
Various images of Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell
Photographs by Jimmy Chin

Footage from The Nose Speed Record, The Dawn Wall,

and Valley Uprising
Courtesy Sender Films and REEL ROCK

Image of Alex Honnold in The New York Times

Photograph by Peter Bohler/Gallery Stock

Various articles from The New York Times

Courtesy The New York Times. © 2015 The New York Times
Company. All rights reserved. Used under license.

Footage from Free Solo

Courtesy National Geographic