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The Project Gutenberg eBook of The face of
China
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United
States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with
almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away
or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License
included with this ebook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you
are not located in the United States, you will have to check the
laws of the country where you are located before using this
eBook.
Author: E. G. Kemp
Language: English
NEW YORK
DUFFIELD & COMPANY
1909
All rights reserved
THIS BOOK
IS DEDICATED TO THE FRIEND
E
VERY intelligent person that I have met whose good fairy has
led him to the Celestial Empire has fallen under the spell of
that marvellous people and marvellous land. I am fired with
the ambition to cast that spell even on those who have never been
there, by showing them as accurately and vividly as I can, with pen
and brush, what the face of China actually is.
People may describe with success the soul of a people, provided
it is sufficiently near the surface, but the foreigner who has known
and loved China for a lifetime would be the first to repudiate the
possibility of doing this in the case of China. I would rather take
Browning’s view—“Nor soul helps body more than body soul”—and
try to set down faithfully the things I have seen, that they may lead
others to study China for themselves.
It may be objected that the picture is too much couleur de rose,
because I have not dwelt on the dark side of things: but there is a
use for eyelids as well as for eyes.
This book is the result of a year spent in Shansi, 1893–94, and
six months spent in travel through the provinces of Shantung, Chili,
Hupeh, Szechwan, and Yünnan during 1907–8. The former visit was
mainly spent at a medical mission at Taiyüanfu, which was then
remote from Western influences; now everything has changed, and I
travelled from north-east to south-west of the Empire and found no
village untouched by the great awakening. On the first occasion I
was always conscious of a certain hostility in the attitude of the
people towards foreigners; this time it was quite the reverse.
Considering the behaviour of many travellers towards the Chinese,
this seems to me really astonishing; but they are very sensitive in
their appreciation of mental attitude, and they responded
unhesitatingly to the call we made on their chivalry by placing
ourselves unreservedly in their hands. We were repeatedly warned
not to do this, but our confidence was justified by the event. In no
European country could we have been more courteously treated,
and in very few have I travelled so happily and so free from care.
The journey was one long series of pleasant surprises, and my
friend expressed the feelings of both of us when, on crossing the
frontier into Burma, she exclaimed: “If only we could turn round and
go all the way back again!” If any one is induced by reading this book
to make personal acquaintance with China, it will not have been
written in vain.
NOTE
Coloured Plates
Portrait of Author as Chinese “Female Traveling Scholar”
(p. 236) Frontispiece
Tea-House in Old Shanghai 6
A Suburb of Weihsien 16
A Village School 24
Official (Court Dress) 30
Mountain Chair 46
Tai Shan 48
Private House: Küfow 54
Confucian Temple 56
Mounted Military Escort 64
Our Houseboat, Grand Canal 69
Camel Inn 74
Opium Refuge 80
Theatre Stage 82
Pagoda 84
Tiger Brave 86
Scholar—Southern Servant 91
City Wall of Peking 92
Temple of Heaven 96
A Lady of Quality—An Official 100
Boxer—Kachin Woman (p. 253) 104
Mr. Ku 106
The Brakeman on the Péhan Railway 108
Ancestral Tablet 120
Blue Dawn 122
Yeh Tan Rapid 124
Village and Junk 132
The Look-out on the Yangtze 134
Camel-back Bridge 144
Szechwan Highway 150
Sunlight and Mist in the Mountains 158
Buddhist Monastery 166
Military Yamen 171
House on Min River 179
Otter Fishing on Min River 181
Mount Omi Bridge 187
Summit of Mount Omi 192
Copper Idol, Sui Fu 196
Cormorants on the Cormorant River 198
Laowatan River 201
Wha Miao 206
Bridegroom—Funeral Pagoda 213
Temple of the God of Literature 221
Fellow-Travellers 226
Tomb of a Philosopher among Rice-fields 229
Tali Fu 235
Shan Woman 249
Sepia Drawings
Cemetery of Confucius 61
Old Examination Buildings 88
Great Wall 110
Chinese Graves 116
River-side Shrine 141
The Chef on the Yangtze 141
City Gate: Chengtu 160
Police Boatman: Min River 181
Signboard of Inn 181
Buddhist Monk beating Fish Gong while Chanting 189
Tiger Shrine 189
Our Military Escort 203
“Orphan Spirit” Shrine 203
Tower of Refuge 204
“Omi to fu” Shrine 204
Miao Woman 206
Upland Village 208
Uh Chai 208
Yünnan Hat 211
Lolo Woman 211
Village Screen Wall 233
Carrying-Chair 233
Suspension-Bridge 243
Bridge made of Creepers 244
THE FACE OF CHINA