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Honda Civic Workshop Manual l4 1 3l Hybrid 2008
Honda Civic Workshop Manual l4 1 3l Hybrid 2008
Make
Honda
Model
Civic
Date
1st January 2018
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Alarm
Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3.
Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer-keyless control unit (B).
4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer-keyless control unit. 5. Install the
immobilizer-keyless control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. After replacement, register the
immobilizer-keyless control unit, and make sure the immobilizer system work properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Keyless
Entry Module > Component Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component location. Also review the
precautions and procedures in Restraint Systems before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Lay a workshop towel under the parts when working on them to protect the face panel from
scratches or other damage.
- Discharge static electricity from your body before and during the work.
- Do not touch the terminal connector of the flat plate cable with your bare hands. (If you have
touched it, wipe it off thoroughly.)
- Before replacing the navigation unit, make sure to remove the customer's navigation DVD, and
their audio CD, or PC card. Remanufactured navigation units do not come with a navigation DVD.
Re-install the customer's navigation DVD, audio CD, and audio PC card into the new
remanufactured unit. If the navigation display won't open, manually remove the navigation DVD,
audio CD, and PC card.
1. Make sure you have the 4-digit anti-theft code for the navigation system, then write down the
audio presets (if applicable). 2. Eject the DVD from the original navigation unit. To avoid scratching
or damaging the DVD, temporarily place the DVD in jewel case. 3. Remove the subdisplay visor. 4.
Remove the center pocket hole lid and bolts, then pull out the center panel (A).
5. Disconnect the connectors (B) and air hose (C), then remove the center panel. 6. Remove the
screws, brackets (A), and the navigation unit (B) from the center panel (C).
7. Install the navigation unit in the reverse order of removal and make sure all connectors are
secure. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then reinstall the customer's original DVD, verifying
than the DVD is free of scratches or smudges. 9. Check any official Honda service website for
more service information about the navigation system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Navigation Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 27
NOTE: Simply transferring the DVD from the original navigation unit to the new navigation unit
does not assure the correct software for the vehicle will be loaded into the new navigation unit.
Doing the DVD transfer without doing software patches may cause the new navigation unit to
appear to be malfunctioning.
10. Enter the new navigation anti-theft code, then enter the audio presets. 11. Park the vehicle
outside, and do the GPS initialization. 12. Give the new navigation anti-theft code to the customer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Heated Mirror Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Keyless Entry Module >
Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Diagrams Control Module Pinout Values, ABS
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 1)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > ABS Modulator-Control Unit > Page 48
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 2)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 49
The control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel speed sensor signals it received, then
it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the
vehicle speed during deceleration based on the wheel speeds.
The control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel, and transmits the control signal to the
modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high.
The hydraulic control has three modes: Pressure intensifying, pressure reducing, and pressure
retaining.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 50
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 1)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 51
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 2)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 52
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector (A) by pulling up the lock (B); the connector disconnects itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the ABS modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (C) and to the right-front (D), the left-rear
(E), the right-rear (F), and the left-front (G) brake systems.
4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (H) with the brackets (I) from the body. 5. Remove the
ABS modulator-control unit from the brackets. 6. Separate the bracket if necessary.
Installation
1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit onto the brackets. 2. Install the bracket with the ABS
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector to the ABS modulator-control unit. 5. Lower the lock of the ABS modulator-control unit
25P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system (except the
servo unit and power unit). 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 8.
Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system (except the servo unit and
power unit) again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Fail Safe Relay,
ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Diagrams
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 68
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Auxiliary Water Pump Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay > Component
Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component
Information > Locations
When the PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from
being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Page 86
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations > Page 93
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Motor Power Control
Module > Component Information > Service and Repair
Compressor Motor Power Control Module: Service and Repair
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precaution before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter. 3. Disconnect connectors (A) from the
A/C compressor driver.
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 112
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 113
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 115
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 116
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 117
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 118
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 119
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 120
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 121
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 122
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 126
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 128
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 129
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 130
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 131
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 132
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 133
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 134
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 135
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 136
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 137
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 138
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 139
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 140
Interior Lighting Module: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 115-0
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 141
Diagram 115-1
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 142
Diagram 115-2
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 200
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 202
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration
Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration
Software Updates > Page 208
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration
Software Updates > Page 210
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
246
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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and Instructions > Page 254
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 255
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 256
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 257
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 258
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 259
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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237. PCM
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237. PCM
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Engine Control Module: Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the PCM
NOTE: The PCM overwrites data and monitors the EVAP system for up to 30 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels
this function. Disconnecting the PCM during this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can
damage the PCM.
1. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 2. Remove the cover (A).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
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7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
PCM Update
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update a PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to
the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS. Select the update mode, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow the instructions on screen. If
you run into a problem during the update procedure (programming takes over 15 minutes, status
bar goes over 100 %, D or immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.), follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM: -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
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8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 11. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration
procedure.
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Engine Control Module: Procedures
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
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NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code
using the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset
the PCM with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 6, clean the throttle body. 20.
Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicle
without navigation).
ECM Reset
HDS Clear Command
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear/PCM reset,
and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board
snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after , reproducing the DTC
during troubleshooting. The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, readiness codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP
pattern. If the CKP pattern data in the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. The CKP pattern clear command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for
repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure; CKP pattern learn
procedure; Test-drive to set readiness codes to complete.
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
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3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 6. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedure.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. The CKP pattern learn procedure is complete.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
NOTE: Clearing the DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.
Procedure
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at
3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine
coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
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PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the PCM after substituting a known-good PCM, reinstall the original PCM,
then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain
5. Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7.
Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then READ DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original PCM so you can later
download (WRITES) it into the new PCM.
12. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 16.
Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
17. If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22. Otherwise, go to step 18. 18.
Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 19. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then WRITE
DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
20. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 21. Enter the immobilizer code with the PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 22. If the TP POSITION
CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 23. 23. If the READ DATA failed in
step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 19, replace the engine oil and engine oil filter, then go to
step 24. 24. Select PGM-FI system and reset the PCM with the HDS. 25. Update the PCM if it does
not have the latest software. 26. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 27. Do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. 28. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedure. 29. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
30. Check that the IMA battery level indicator (BAT). If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the
gauge indicates zero level, start the engine, and
hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level
indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
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Feedback Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 347
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 353
Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 361
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Locations
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Install the No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the ignition coil relay
from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil 3P
connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 370
6. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
7. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 8. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
10. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
11. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P). 12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P
socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and
the PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and PCM connector
terminal A6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 371
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the PCM
(A6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules -
Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 372
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Removal
NOTE: If you are only disconnecting SRS unit connector A, skip step 2.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and the seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Remove the center console. 4. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P), connector B (28P), and
remove the TORX bolts (C), then pull out the SRS unit.
Installation
1. Install the SRS unit (A) with new TORX bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS
unit; push them into position until they click.
NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against its bracket before torquing the TORX bolt.
2. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and the seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Calibrate the ODS unit. 5. Do the ODS unit
operation check. 6. Confirm proper SRS system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the
SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. 7. Reinstall all removed parts.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > SRS Unit Replacement > Page 385
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair ODS Unit Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the passenger's side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the passenger's seat assembly
and seat-back cover. 4. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector (A) and sensor connectors (B)
from the ODS unit (C).
Installation
1. Place the ODS unit (A) on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two nuts (B), and connect the ODS
unit harness 18P connector (C) and sensor
2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then
connect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5.
Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's
seat. 6. Initialize the ODS unit. 7. After installing the ODS unit, confirm proper system operation:
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Steering > Steering Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Steering Control Module: Locations
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then
write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is in LOCK (0), then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery. 3. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover. 4. Remove the
passenger's kick panel. 5. Disconnect EPS control unit connector A (2P), connector B (2P),
connector C (2P), and connector D (28P).
6. Remove the nuts (E) from the EPS control unit (F). 7. Remove the EPS control unit. 8. Install the
EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 9. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery
and do the following tasks:
NOTE: If the IMA battery level, gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
^ Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio
presets.
^ Make sure that the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
^ If the EPS control unit is replaced, the EPS control unit must memorize the torque sensor neutral
position.
10. After installation, start the engine, and let it idle. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Check that the EPS indicator does not
come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 404
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 405
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 407
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 408
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 409
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 410
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 411
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: To disconnect the TPMS control unit from its bracket, insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket shown in (D) to release the hook, then slide out the
TPMS unit.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer
tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 418
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 419
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 420
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 422
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 423
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 424
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 425
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 426
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 427
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 429
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 430
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 431
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 432
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 433
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 434
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules
- Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 435
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic
Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during a
troubleshooting procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you are returning from the DLC circuit
troubleshooting, skip steps 5 to 6, and clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 9. Disconnect the
negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.
10. Remove the battery. 11. Remove the PCM cover (A).
12. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic
Parameters > Page 445
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install a known-good PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
16. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 17. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 18. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 19. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 20. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 21. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in steps 6, clean the throttle body. 22. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 23. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 24. Enter the anti-theft code for
the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock
(on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Heated Glass Element
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Body - Power Window Diagnostics Revision
Power Window Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Body - Power Window Diagnostics
Revision
10-011
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
Resetting the driver's power window is required when any of the following have occurred:
- Power is removed from the power window control unit while the power window timer is ON.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 2. Move the driver's window all the way down by using the
driver's window DOWN switch.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (O). 5. Push and hold the driver's window DOWN switch. 6.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 7. Release the driver's window DOWN switch. 8. Repeat steps 4-7
three more times. 9. Wait 1 second.
10. Confirm that AUTO UP and AUTO DOWN do not work. If AUTO UP and DOWN work, go back
to step 1. If they do not, go to step 11. 11. Move the driver's window all the way down by holding
the driver's window DOWN switch. 12. Pull up and hold the driver's window UP switch to the AUTO
UP position until the window reaches the fully closed position, then continue to hold
the switch for 1 second.
13. Confirm that the power window master switch is reset by using the driver's window AUTO UP
and DOWN function.
If the window still does not work in AUTO, repeat the procedure several times, paying close
attention to the 5 second time limit between steps. If it still does not work, refer to the master switch
input test:
- 4-door
- 2-door
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Windows and Glass > Power Window Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Hood
Sensor/Switch (For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the audio remote switch. 3. Install the audio remote
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Door Lock Cylinder
Switch > Component Information > Locations
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Check for continuity between the terminals (1) and (2) with the float in the down,position and in the
up position.
NOTE: ^
Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be
continuity.
^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the MAX (upper) level (A). With the float up, there should be
no continuity.
^ If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the same time,
check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
^ If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 530
5. Check the brake pedal free play. 6. Do the sensor 0 (zero) position memorization. See: Brakes
and Traction Control/Brake Pedal Assy/Service and Repair/Memorizing 0 (Zero)
Position
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
NOTE: If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the
same time, check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system
indicator does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
Front
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the connector clamp (A), then disconnect the
wheel speed sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check
that the ABS indicator does not come on.
Rear
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the connector clamp (A), then disconnect the
wheel speed sensor connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 546
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing unit, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check
that the ABS indicator does not come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and
Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and
Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 555
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Switch >
Component Information > Locations
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (c) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector (A), then remove the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and the switch mounting hole. 6. Apply a very
small amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
7. Loosely install the compressor mounting bolts and the compressor through bolt in the numbered
sequence shown. Failure to follow this sequence
8. Install the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly. 9. Install the engine undercover and the splash
shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Ambient Temperature Sensor /
Switch HVAC > Component Information > Locations
Ambient Temperature Sensor / Switch HVAC: Locations
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, then remove the outside air
temperature sensor (B) from the receiver/dryer desiccant bracket. Disconnect the 2P
1. Remove the center panel, with navigation, without navigation. 2. Remove the self-tapping screw
and the humidity/in-car temperature sensor (A) from the center panel (B).
3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature Sensor /
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 2. Remove the center console. 3. Remove the
accelerator pedal module. 4. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor and
heater core temperature sensor, then remove the harness clip (B) and the
connector clip (C). Remove the self-tapping screws and the heater core cover (D).
1. Remove the center panel, with navigation, without navigation. 2. Remove the self-tapping screw
and the humidity/in-car temperature sensor (A) from the center panel (B).
3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the gauge control module (SPEEDO). 2. Remove the sunlight sensor (A) from the
dashboard with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect the connector (B). Be careful not to damage
the
1. Remove the IMA motor housing. 2. Disconnect the motor rotor position sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bolts, and the motor rotor position sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
NOTE: Tighten the bolts (C) first, then tighten the bolts 0).
The following procedure should be performed prior to working on or near any high voltage
components. Follow the procedure exactly. Otherwise, you may be injured or may damage
equipment.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then remove the ignition key. 2. Remove the rear seat-back.
3. Remove the battery module switch lid (A) from the battery module.
4. Turn the battery module switch (A) OFF, then check that the bolt (B) is showing. 5. Wait at least
5 minutes to allow the PDU capacitors to discharge. 6. Remove the IPU lid.
7. Measure voltage at the battery module terminals (A). There should be 30 V or less. If more than
30 V is present, there is a problem in the circuit;
Make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly.
- Before the battery module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are
connected properly.
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect its connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Door Switch: Locations
NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram.
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Disconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 4. Measure voltage between floor wire
harness C651 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should
be
battery voltage. -
If the voltage is OK, check for short or open in the fuel subharness, then go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 7. Measure
resistance between fuel tank unit 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E
(EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
8. Reconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 9. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A)
fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it.
10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 11. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with
the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F" replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 661
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 662
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Parking Brake Warning
Switch > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the
same time, check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system
indicator does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Combination Switch >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
12P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch. 5. Inspect the connector
terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position
according to the tables. -
- With audio.
- With navigation.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulb (A) or the hazard warning switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch >
Component Information > Locations
7. Horn Switch
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 706
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 707
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 716
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 728
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 729
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 736
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CKP Pulse Plate Replacement > Page 745
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
ELD Replacement
1. Remove the PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 754
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
764
3. Disconnect the air hose (B), and then remove the FTP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D) and retainer (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
771
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations
8. Knock Sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 777
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 778
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations >
Page 785
2. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
WU-TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Air
Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor > Page 794
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the warm up
three way catalytic converter (WU-TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration
of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM
compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The
secondary HO2S is located on the WU-TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A),
then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure switch (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Emission Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
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Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 826
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
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NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
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2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
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The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
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Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
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Replacement > Page 851
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
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Replacement > Page 852
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
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The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
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Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
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Replacement > Page 861
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Page 876
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Page 877
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Page 879
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Page 883
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Page 886
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Page 887
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Page 896
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Page 897
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
8. Knock Sensor
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 905
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
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Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 906
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Impact Sensor: Locations
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the front seat assembly. 4.
Remove the front door sill inner trim. 5. Remove the lower B-pillar lower trim panel. 6. Disconnect
the floor wire harness 4P connector from the side impact sensor (first). 7. Using a TORX T30 bit,
remove the TORX bolt (A), then remove the side impact sensor (first) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (first) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the floor wire
harness 4P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(first).
2. Reinstall all removed parts. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. After installing the
side impact sensor (first) confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the
SRS indicator should come
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side curtain airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the rear seat and seat
side bolster. 4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor
(second). 5. Remove the TORX bolt (A) using a TORX T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor
(second) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (second) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect floor wire
harness 2P connector (6) to the side impact sensor
(second).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the side impact sensor (second),
confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat
belt tensioners 4P connectors, and seat belt buckle
tensioner 4P connector.
3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P
connector (A). Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the front
Installation
1. Install the front impact sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the engine compartment
wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact
sensor (C).
2. Reconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the passenger's airbag 4P connector, and both seat
belt tensioner 4P connectors. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. After installing the
front impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both side curtain airbag 2P connectors. 3. Remove the rear seat. 4. Disconnect the
floor wire harness 4P connector from the rear safing sensor. 5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the
TORX bolt (A), then remove the rear safing sensor (B).
Installation
1. Install the rear safing sensor (A) with a new TORX bolt (B) then connect the floor wire harness
4P connector (C) to the rear safing sensor.
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
rear safing sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on for
08-041
June 7, 2008
ODS Unit Initialization, ODS Unit Calibration, and Seat Weight Sensor Output Check With Manual
Mode
BACKGROUND
The 2006 2008 Civic Service Manual shows procedures for the occupant detection system (ODS)
unit initialization, the ODS unit calibration, and the front passenger's seat weight sensor output
check after a vehicle collision These procedures are normally done by following the on-screen
instructions on the HDS Due to some software variations between the SRS unit and the ODS unit
in some vehicles, when doing one of these procedures, the HDS may indicate to do the procedure
with manual mode However these manual mode procedures are not in the service manual In these
cases, follow the procedures in this bulletin to do the ODS unit initialization, the ODS unit
calibration or the front passenger's seat weight sensor output check with manual mode
NOTE
Even though these procedures are done manually, an HDS is still required.
^ Front Passengers Seat Weight Sensors Output Check After a Vehicle Collision With Manual
Mode
TOOL INFORMATION
NOTE:
Initialize the ODS unit after replacing the seat back cover, the seat back cushion, and/or the ODS
unit.
NOTE:
A new (uninitialized) ODS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 85-71. If you
read this DTC, continue with this procedure.
2. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat back to a
normal upright position Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
flashes no.
8. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is initialized. Go to ODS UNIT
CALIBRATION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is initialized, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru
13. If after three attempts you cannot initialize the ODS unit, refer to symptom troubleshooting in
the service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire.
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> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Occupant Detection System Initialization > Page 936
17. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (0). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
Always calibrate the ODS unit after replacing any of the front passenger's seat components (except
the ODS unit or the seat weight sensors), after a vehicle collision, or after replacing the SRS unit.
2. Adjust the front passengers seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to the
forward-most position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
4. If not already connected, connect the HDS to the DLC, then turn on the HDS (but do not turn the
ignition switch to ON (II).
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
display flashes no.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, buckle the driver's seat belt.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is calibrated. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then go to FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR OUTPUT
CHECK AFTER A VEHICLE COLLISION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is calibrated, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not calibrated. Repeat steps 8 thru
13. If after three attempts the ODS unit does not calibrate, refer to symptom troubleshooting in the
service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
^ Always check the front passenger's seat weight sensor output after replacing any of the front
passenger's seat components, except the ODS unit, and after a vehicle collision.
1. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to a
normal upright position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait for the passenger airbag OFF indicator to go off.
^ 2-door: 64 pounds. (A case of Honda coolant and a 1 gallon jug of VTM-4 fluid is 64 pounds.)
4. For 2-door models: Firmly tap on the headrest twice to release any stiction that may be present
in the seat weight sensors.
5. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should come on and stay on. If the
indicator does not come on, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them.
8. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should go off.
^ If the indicator goes off, the front passenger's weight sensors are OK.
^ If the indicator does not go off, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them, then repeat steps 1
thru 8.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 938
Seat Occupant Sensor: Locations
Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the seat
cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX E18 socket, remove the TORX nuts (A) attaching the seat track
(B) to the front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the seat weight sensors (E), then remove the front
passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Install the new front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four front passenger's weight
sensors under the seat track. 2. Apply multipurpose grease to the spring washer and bushing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 943
3. Insert a 3.5 mm center punch into the hole in the cushion frame to position the spring washers,
when tighten the TORX nuts (A). Begin with (1),
6. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 7. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 8. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 9. Calibrate the ODS unit.
10. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator
Removal
NOTE:
- Removal of the driver's seat position sensor must be done according Precautions and
Procedures.
- Do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while removing the
driver's seat position sensor.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector. 3. Remove the driver's seat assembly. 4. Disconnect
the seat position sensor harness 2P connector (A) from the driver's seat position sensor.
5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the driver's seat position sensor.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness so it does not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while installing the
driver's seat position sensor.
- After installing the driver's seat position sensor, make sure it is clean. Keep it away from dust.
1. Install the new driver's seat position sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the seat
position sensor harness 2P connector to the driver's
2. Install the driver's seat assembly. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Check the
operation of the driver's seat position sensor with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 957
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 958
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 960
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 961
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 962
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 963
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 964
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 965
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 966
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 967
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 971
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 973
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 974
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 975
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 976
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
The EPS control unit stores the torque sensor neutral position in the EEPROM. The torque sensor
neutral position must be memorized whenever the gearbox, the EPS motor, or the EPS control unit
is replaced.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not effected when erasing the DTCs.
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The EPS control unit stores the torque sensor neutral position in the EEPROM. The torque sensor
neutral position must be memorized whenever the gearbox, the EPS motor, or the EPS control unit
is replaced.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not effected when erasing the DTCs.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1006
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1007
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1008
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1010
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1011
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1012
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1013
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1014
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1015
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1017
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1018
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1019
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1020
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1021
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1022
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1023
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1024
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: ^
If you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) before memorizing all four sensor IDs, the memorizing ID
is canceled.
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire back to specifications. 17. Repeat step
12 to 16 for all the other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1028
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
NOTE: ^
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1030
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core to deflate the
tire. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
NOTICE: Note these items to avoid damaging the tire pressure sensor: ^
^ Position the wheel as shown so the valve stem (B) is 90 degrees from the bead breaker (C) as
shown.
^ Do not position the bead breaker of the tire changer too close to the rim.
5. Position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C)
and will move away from it when the machine
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and the washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with
the valve stem (C) from the wheel.
NOTE: Check the nut and the washer, if they have deterioration or damage, replace them with new
ones during reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1031
7. Remove and replace the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, or when replacing the tire.
Installation
NOTE: Use only wheels that have a "TPMS" stamp (A) on them.
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface (E) should not exceed
the protrusion (F) of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing caught in the bead of the tire when
assembling the tire. Do not twist the sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1032
damage or deform the valve stem grommet.
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron
(B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will move
away from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch connector.
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK. If there is no continuity
between any terminals, go to step 5. 5. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end
of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 1042
6. If the measurement of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace the
transmission range switch. If the measurement is out of the
standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range switch
continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 1043
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Shift to N. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 3. Disconnect the
transmission range switch connector, and remove the control shaft cover (A).
4. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 5. Move the control shaft from the P position to the N
position by turning the selector control shaft using a 6.0 mm wrench.
NOTE: Do not use the selector control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the control shaft tips are
squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the selector control
shaft and the transmission range switch.
6. To set up a new transmission range switch (A), align the cutouts (B) on the rotary-frame with the
neutral positioning cutouts (C) on the
transmission range switch. Then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to
hold the transmission range switch in the A/T position.
NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to hold the transmission range switch
in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 1044
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts (A) on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position.
Do not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector
securely.
10. Install the control shaft cover on the transmission range switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 1045
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
12. Check that the engine starts in P and N, and does not start in any other shift lever position. 13.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 14. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or
apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is
supported securely. 15. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the
shift lever operation. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT input shaft
(drive pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft
(Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 1055
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Output Shaft (Driven Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT output shaft
(driven pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed
sensor (A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor in
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft
(Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 1056
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Speed Sensor Replacement
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT speed sensor, then install the CVT speed sensor in the
transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector
securely. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and
Switches - CVT > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Driver's Switch
The driver's switch is combined with the control unit so you cannot isolate the switch to test it.
Instead, run the master switch input test procedures. If the tests are normal, the driver's switch
must be faulty. Replace the switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Master Switch Test/Replacement > Page 1072
4. If the continuity is not as specified, remove the screws and replace the switch. 5. Install the
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Master Switch Test/Replacement > Page 1073
Power Window Switch: Service and Repair Passenger's Power Window Switch Test/Replacement
2. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window Switch
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Master Switch Test/Replacement > Page 1074
3. Connect battery power to the No. 4 terminal and ground the No. 7 (or No. 8) terminal. The switch
light should come on. 4. If the continuity or switch light tests is not as specified, remove the screws
and replace the switch. 5. Install the switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Washer Fluid
Level Switch > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
dashboard wire harness 8P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Install the switch in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Switch
> Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3. Disconnect the
dashboard wire harness 8P connector (A) from the wiper/washer switch (B).
4. Remove the two screws, then slide out the wiper/washer switch. 5. Install the switch in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Alignment: Customer Interest Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1099
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1102
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1103
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1104
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1111
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1112
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1113
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1114
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1116
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1117
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1123
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1126
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1127
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1128
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1135
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1136
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1137
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1138
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1140
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 1141
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1142
Alignment: By Symptom
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1143
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1146
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1147
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1148
Disclaimer
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Upper Control Arm Kit:
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1149
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1152
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1153
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1154
Disclaimer
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Upper Control Arm Kit:
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1155
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1158
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1159
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1160
Disclaimer
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1162
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1163
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
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DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
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NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1166
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1168
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1169
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Technical
Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1171
to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1172
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1173
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1174
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1175
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1177
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
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Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 1178
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
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Alignment: Specifications
Caster angle
Camber angle
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. -0°03'±30' Maximum difference between the front right and
left side .........................................................................................................................................
0°35' Rear ............................................................................................................................................
...................................................... -1°39' + 1°05' - 0°45'
Toe-in
Turning angle
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1180
Wheel Alignment
The suspension can be adjusted for front camber, front toe, and rear toe. However, each of these
adjustments are related to each other. For example, when you adjust camber, the toe will change.
Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust, camber or toe.
Pre-Alignment Checks
For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks:
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is
not modified. 3. Check the tire size and pressure.
Tire pressure (at cold): Front/Rear: 220 kPa (2.2 kgf/cm2, 32 psi)
4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a tire with
your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling.)
6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Check that the
steering column is set at the center tilt and telescopic position.
Caster Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
^ If the measurement is not within specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
Camber Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Camber angle: Front: -0°03'±30' (Maximum difference between the front right and left side: 0°35')
Rear: -1°39' + 1°05' - 0°45'
^ If the measurement for the front camber is outside the specification, go to the front camber
adjustment.
^ If the measurement for the rear camber is outside the specification, check for bent or damaged
suspension components.
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Front Camber Adjustment
The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with a
smaller diameter adjusting bolt. The difference between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch
bolt hole diameter allows for a small range of adjustment.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle by
moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
4. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. 5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake
disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 6. Lower the vehicle to the ground,
and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Measure
the camber angle.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 9.
Remove the front wheels.
10. Replace the damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle.
NOTE: ^
Install the washers (B) included the adjusting bolt set between the front damper and the self-locking
nut.
^ The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±25' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper
pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt.
^ The camber angle can be adjusted up to 50' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the
adjusting bolts.
11. Tighten the adjusting bolts to the specified torque value. 12. Clean the mating surfaces of the
brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 13. Lower the vehicle to the
ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 14.
Measure the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within specification, repeat steps 8 through
13 to readjust the camber angle. If the camber
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Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Set the steering column to the center tilt and center telescopic position, then center the steering
wheel spokes, and install a steering wheel holder
tool.
3. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts (A) while holding the flat surface sections (B) of the tie-rod end with a
wrench, and turn both tie-rods (C) until the
4. After adjusting, tighten the tie-rod locknuts. Reposition the rack-end boot if it is twisted or
displaced. 5. Go to the rear toe inspection/adjustment.
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Check the toe.
3. Hold the adjusting bolt (A) on the trailing arm (B), and remove the self-locking nut (C).
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4. Replace the self-locking nut with a new one, and lightly tighten it.
NOTE: ^
^ Reassemble the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the eccentric facing up.
5. Adjust the rear toe by turning the adjusting bolt until the toe is correct. 6. Tighten the self-locking
nut while holding the adjusting bolt.
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brake, and measure the turning angle of both
wheels.
2. If the turning angle is not within the specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
Fuel Pressure.......................................................................................................................................
..........270 - 320 kpa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi)
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Information > Specifications > Page 1188
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
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Information > Specifications > Page 1189
'07 model
2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure
gauge. 3. Reinstall the air cleaner (B). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle.
5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed.
The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when
- If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting.
The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). -
- If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then
recheck the fuel pressure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle position to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The EPS signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
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> Specifications > Page 1194
- The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Headlight OFF
1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the
HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 5. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
6. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with high electric load (A/C switch on, temperature set to max
cool, blower fan on High, and headlights on high
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1199
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disabling the fuel
pump and then disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the HDS
to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump
OFF, then start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: -
Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump.
- A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them
as needed.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 12. Remove
the air cleaner. 13. Remove the cover (A) and the quick-connect fitting cover (B).
14. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 15. Place a rag or shop towel
over the quick-connect fitting (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1204
16. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
17. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 18. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the
auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1205
3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Remove the fuel fill cap. 6. Disconnect the negative cable from
the battery. 7. Remove the air cleaner. 8. Remove the cover (A) and quick-connect fitting cover (B).
9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1206
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
14. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component
Information > Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System
Information > Specifications
Ignition Timing: Specifications
Ignition Timing
....................................................................................................................................... 10 ° ± 2 °
BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1213
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1214
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
8. Connect the timing light to the exhaust side No. 1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the
PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM.
Torque: ................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1218
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. ILFR6J11K DENSO ..............................................................
...........................................................................................................................................
SK20HPR-L11
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1219
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and the ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sandblaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of
specification.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
listed sparkplugs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1220
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 18 N.m
Engine Assembly
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits > Page 1225
Compression Check: Specifications General Specifications
Engine Compression
Compression Pressure
.......................................................................................................................................... Above 980
kPa (10.0 kgf/cm2, 142 psi)
Maximum Variation
................................................................................................................................................. Within
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1226
NOTE: After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the
PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector
(DLC). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle
and the PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI,
INSPECTION, then All INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8.
Remove the four intake side ignition coils. 9. Remove the four intake side spark plugs.
NOTE: Use a compression gauge with a connecting length (between the edge and the flange) of
less than 23 mm (0.9 in.).
11. Turn the IMA battery module switch OFF. 12. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with
the starter motor and measure the compression.
14. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
15. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 16. Install the four intake side spark
plugs. 17. Install the four intake side ignition coils. 18. Select PCM reset to cancel the ALL
INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 19. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 20. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedures. 21. Turn the IMA battery module switch ON. 22. Clear any
IMA DTCs that may have been set while doing this inspection procedure. 23. If the IMA battery
level gauge (BAT) displays no segment, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000
rpm without load (in N or P)
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1230
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the chain case.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem on No.
1 cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should
5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B)
until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1231
6. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
Specified Torque 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 lbf-ft) Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.
7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft
sprocket with the top edge of the chain case.
8. Check the valve clearance on the No. 3 cylinder; adjust it if necessary 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
chain.
10. Check the valve clearance on the No. 4 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 1232
12. Check the valve clearance on the No. 2 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 13. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Timing Component Alignment Marks > Component Information > Locations
Timing Component Alignment Marks: Locations
Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing chain can result in damage to internal engine
components.
For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain;
Service and Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the belt for cracks or damage. If the belt is cracked or damaged, replace it. 2. Check that
the auto-tensioner indicator (A) is within the standard range (B) as shown. If it is out of the standard
range, replace the drive belt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1239
1. Move the auto-tensioner (A) to relieve tension from the drive belt (B), and remove the drive belt.
-Lightweight and slim design -Equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point securing attachments
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Tools and Equipment > Electrical /
Mechanical Repair > Page 1242
-Works on most Honda applications
Honda serpentine belt wrench equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point secured sockets, for
engagement every 30 degrees. Ideal for strong tensioners used on 2006 and newer civics.
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Page 1249
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Cabin Air Filter > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Open the glove box. Remove the glove box stop on each side, then let the glove box hang down.
2. Remove the dust and pollen filter assembly (A) from the evaporator.
3. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter.
4. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leaking out of the
evaporator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Evaporative Canister Filter > Component Information > Service and
Repair
2. Remove the EVAP canister filter (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fluid Filter - CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Disconnect the ATF cooler hoses from the ATF filter (A).
2. Remove the bolt securing the ATF filter holder (B), and remove the ATF filter.
3. Slide the ATF cooler hose (transmission side) (C) on a new ATF filter until the hose end contacts
the mark, and secure the hose with the clip at 2-4
4. Slide the ATF cooler hose (ATF cooler side) (D) on the ATF filter until the hose end is 5-7 mm
(0.2-0.3 in.) away from the filter housing.
5. Secure the ATF filter on its bracket (E) with the ATF filter holder and the bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disabling the fuel
pump and then disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the HDS
to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump
OFF, then start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: -
Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump.
- A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them
as needed.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 12. Remove
the air cleaner. 13. Remove the cover (A) and the quick-connect fitting cover (B).
14. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 15. Place a rag or shop towel
over the quick-connect fitting (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair > Page 1263
16. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
17. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 18. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the
auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair > Page 1264
3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Remove the fuel fill cap. 6. Disconnect the negative cable from
the battery. 7. Remove the air cleaner. 8. Remove the cover (A) and quick-connect fitting cover (B).
9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service
and Repair > Page 1265
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
14. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Service and Repair
filter rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system.
5. Install the oil filter by hand. 6. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the
oil filter wrench.
7. If four numbers or marks (1 to 4 or V to VVVV) are printed around the outside of the filter, you
can use the following procedure to tighten the
filter.
^ Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the oil pan, and note which number or mark is
at the bottom.
^ Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three numbers or marks from the one you noted. For
example, if number 2 is at the bottom when the seal is seated, tighten the filter until the number 1
comes around the bottom.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1269
8. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level. Check for oil leakage during and
after running the engine for more than 3
minutes.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Specifications
Brake Fluid: Specifications
* = Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the engine. Reserve Tank
capacity = 0.41 L (0.108 US gal)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1282
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in
corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant
Type 2 is a mixture of 50 % antifreeze and 50 % water. Premixing is not required.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1283
Coolant Check
1. Look at the coolant level in the coolant reservoir. Make sure it is between the MAX mark (A) and
the MIN mark (B).
2. If the coolant level in the coolant reservoir is at or below the MIN mark, add coolant to bring it
between the MIN mark and the MAX mark, then
Coolant Replacement
1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the engine and
2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Remove the five clips and the two bolts securing the engine
undercover, then open the engine undercover. 4. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant.
5. Remove the drain bolt (A) from the rear side of the engine block.
6. After the coolant has drained, reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer. 7. Tighten the radiator
drain plug securely. 8. Loosen the air bleed bolt (A) on the connecting pipe joint.
9. Pour Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001) into the radiator and coolant
reservoir, and tighten the bleed bolt as soon as
10. Pour Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler
neck.
NOTE: ^
Always use Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in
corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail.
^ Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Do not
add water.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1285
11. Loosely install the radiator cap. 12. Start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the radiator
fan comes on at least twice). 13. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator, and add
Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2, if needed. 14. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run
the engine again, and check for leaks. 15. Clean up any spilled engine coolant. 16. If the
maintenance minder required engine coolant replacement, reset the maintenance minder, and this
procedure is complete. If the maintenance
17. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 18. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the
data link connector (DLC). 19. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 20. Make sure the HDS
communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
communicate, troubleshoot the DLC
circuit.
21. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS. 22. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGE MENU
with the HDS. 23. Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 24. Select
MAINTENANCE SUB ITEM 5 RESET with the HDS. 25. Reset the maintenance information
display.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - CVT > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - CVT: Capacity Specifications
Change ................................................................................................................................................
............................................................... 3.0 Qt (2.8L) Complete Refill ...............................................
................................................................................................................................................... 5.4 Qt
(5.1L)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - CVT > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1290
Fluid - CVT: Fluid Type Specifications
A/T Fluid
Honda Service News Notice: If you're replacing transmission fluid in a CVT-equipped vehicle, or
just topping it off, make sure you're using the new CVT fluid (P/N 08200-9006). From here on,
DON'T put ATF-Z1 in a CVT. If you're topping off a CVT that's already got ATF-Z1, there's no need
for concern; this fluid is compatible with ATF-Z1. All CVT-equipped Hondas starting with the 2006
models and onward will be factory-filled with the new CVT fluid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT
Fluid Level Check
1. Park the vehicle on the level ground. 2. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating
temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds after turning the engine off. Higher fluid level
may be indicated if the radiator fan comes on twice or more.
3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A), and wipe it with a clean cloth.
4. Insert the dipstick back into the tube. 5. Remove the dipstick, and check the fluid level. It should
be between the upper mark (A) and the lower mark (B) on the HOT level (C).
6. If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, the ATF filter, the
ATF cooler hoses, the ATF cooler lines, and the
ATF cooler line joints. If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission with CVTF.
7. If the level is above the upper mark, drain the CVTF to proper level. 8. If necessary, fill the
transmission with CVTF through the dipstick tube opening (A) to bring the fluid level between the
upper mark and the lower
mark of the dipstick. Do not fill the fluid above the upper mark. Always use Honda CVT fluid
(CVTF). Using a non-Honda CVTF can affect shift quality.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT
Fluid Level Check > Page 1293
9. Insert the dipstick (A) back into the tube with the dot (B) on the handle facing to the left side of
the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT
Fluid Level Check > Page 1294
Fluid - CVT: Service and Repair CVT Fluid Replacement
1. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2.
Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the clips and the bolts
securing the front of the undercover, then open the undercover.
4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the CVT fluid (CVTF). Reinstall the drain plug with a new
sealing washer (B).
5. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the dipstick tube opening (A) to bring
it to the upper mark on the dipstick. Always use
Honda CVT fluid (CVTF). Using a non-Honda CVTF can affect shift quality.
6. Check that the CVT fluid level is between the upper mark (A) and the lower mark (B) on the
COLD level (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT
Fluid Level Check > Page 1295
7. Insert the dipstick back into the tube with the dot on the handle facing to the left side of the
vehicle. 8. Check the CVT fluid level. 9. Install the undercover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
API Classification
.................................................................................................................................... Make sure the
label says "For Gasoline Engines". SAE Viscosity ..............................................................................
............................................................................................................................... 0W-20
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1301
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the five clips and the two bolts securing the engine undercover,
then open the engine undercover.
3. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil.
4. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 5. Refill with the recommended oil.
6. Install the engine undercover. 7. Run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil
leakage. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS)
to the data link connector (DLC).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1302
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 11. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and
the powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC
circuit.
12. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS. 13. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGES MENU
with the HDS. 14. Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 15. Select
RESETTING THE ENGINE OIL LIFE with the HDS.
NOTE: If you changed the ATF at the same time with the engine oil, select RESETTING THE
ENGINE OIL LIFE AND ATF with the HDS instead.
POWER STEERING SYSTEM FLUID TYPE Honda Power Steering Fluid. Always use Honda
Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid
can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 1311
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 1312
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Capacity:
Evaporator ...........................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 40 mL (1 1/3 fl-oz) Line or hose .....................................................
............................................................................................................................................ 10 mL
(1/3 fl-oz) Receiver/Dryer Desiccant ....................................................................................................
........................................................................ 10 mL (1/3 fl-oz) Leakage repair ................................
.............................................................................................................................................................
25 mL (5/6 fl-oz) A/C compressor For A/C compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil
drained from the removed A/C compressor from 130 mL (4 2/5 fl.oz), and drain the calculated
volume of oil from the new A/C compressor: 130 mL (4 2/5 fl.oz) - Volume of removed A/C
compressor = Volume to drain from new A/C compressor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 1320
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
The A/C compressor in this vehicle is powered by the IMA battery module, and this oil is required
because it has unique electrical insulting qualities.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not be compatible.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the power unit may operate (you can hear the motor
sound).
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the brake pedal several times. 3. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then turn it to ON (II) again. 4. Wait several seconds for the brake fluid in the
subreservoir (A) to stabilize.
NOTE: Do not operate the brake pedal while doing this procedure.
5. Check that the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (B).
Fluid Removal
NOTE: Because the conventional brake system and the AHB system use the same brake fluid
reservoir, fluid removal is necessary in order to purge old fluid from the AHB system.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Press the brake pedal 20 times to release the pressure
in the accumulator. 3. Attach a length of drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) on the caliper or
wheel cylinder.
4. Loosen the bleed screw, and pump the brake pedal until brake fluid stops coming out. 5.
Remove the air cleaner. 6. Remove the IMA system power cable clamp (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1324
7. Disconnect the auxiliary electric water pump connector (A).
8. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) under the servo unit (C), and loosen
the bleed screw.
NOTE: Do not operate the pump motor for more than 110 seconds or it may be damaged.
10. When the brake fluid is drained out, tighten the bleed screw, then turn the ignition switch to
LOCK (0).
NOTE: After draining the brake fluid from the servo unit and the power unit, the sound of the power
unit function changes.
NOTE: ^
The brake fluid reservoir tank must beat least 1/2full at the start of the bleeding procedure and
checked after bleeding each brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Add fluid as required.
^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while doing this procedure.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Press the brake pedal several times until it becomes a
hard brake pedal to release the pressure in the accumulator. 3. Make sure the brake fluid level in
the reservoir tank (A) is at the middle of the tank line (B).
4. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 5. Start
the bleeding at the driver's side of the front brake system.
NOTE: Bleed the calipers or the wheel cylinders in the sequence shown.
6. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B), then loosen the bleed screw to
allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check for the AHB indicator or brake system indicator to
come on in the gauge control module (tach).
^ If the indicator(s) come on and stay on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and do the servo unit
and power unit bleeding procedure.
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Do the normal brake system bleeding (except the servo unit and
power unit). 3. Remove the IMA system power cable clamp (A).
6. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) under the servo unit (C), and loosen
the bleed screw.
7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and add the brake fluid to the reservoir tank.
NOTE: Do not operate the pump motor for more than 110 seconds or it may be damaged.
8. Make sure the brake fluid is discharged from the bleed screw to allow air to escape from the
system, then tighten the bleed screw securely. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
10. Add the brake fluid in the reservoir tank, and keep it at the middle of the tank line. 11. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 12. Wait several seconds until the AHB indicator and/or brake system
indicator goes off. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1328
14. Press the brake pedal 20 times. 15. Wait about 5 minutes. 16. Repeat step 11 to step 15 two
times. 17. Make sure the bleed screw is tightened. 18. Inspect the brake fluid level. 19. Check the
brake pedal stroke. 20. Install all removed parts and reconnect all connectors. 21. Clear the DTC
with the HDS, if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before servicing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when doing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) or the
battery cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you
have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write
down the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock (without navigation).
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1332
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C).
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
these things: -
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for
3 minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the
connectors from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned to LOCK (0).
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection after Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1334
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- Do not use any silicone based cleaners or lubricants on any SRS connectors or terminals.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1335
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1336
Opening the SRS Unit Shorting Connectors for Diagnosis
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electrical contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1337
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid. Do not spray
steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait
for 3 minutes before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1338
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1339
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the
seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 1340
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B
(28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Locations >
Under-Hood Fuse/Relay Box
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1353
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1354
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1356
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1357
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1358
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1359
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1360
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1437
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1438
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1440
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1441
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
- If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
- If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit set one or more of these codes:
DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure returns to normal, the control unit turns off the
indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the control unit detects a problem in the system
during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the low tire pressure indicator, stores the
DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36, or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
Maintenance Minder
References:
- For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to
Indicator Based Service. See: Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance
Services/Indicator Based Service
- For information on how to reset the display, refer to the article under Resetting the Maintenance
Minder. See: Service and Repair
The vehicle displays engine oil life and maintenance service items on the information display to
show when to perform an engine oil replacement and other indicated maintenance service.
Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard
computer calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage.
To see the current engine oil life, turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, then push and
release the SEL/RESET button repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator appears.
The remaining engine oil life is displayed on the information display according to the table above.
If the remaining engine oil life is 15 to 6 percent, the engine oil life indicator will display every time
the ignition switch is turned to the ON (II) position. The maintenance minder indicator will also
come on, and the maintenance item code(s) for other scheduled maintenance items needing
service will be
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1513
displayed next to the engine oil life indicator.
The maintenance item code or codes indicate the main and sub items required at the time of the oil
change. For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed,
refer to Indicator Based Service. See: Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance
Services/Indicator Based Service
When the remaining engine oil life is 5 to 1 percent, you will see a "SERVICE OIL LIFE" message
along with the same maintenance item code(s), every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON
(II) position.
When the remaining engine oil life is 0 percent, the engine oil life indicator will blink. The display
comes on every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. When you see this
message, the indicated maintenance should be performed as soon as possible.
If you still do not perform the indicated maintenance, you will see negative mileage. It is displayed
when the vehicle has been driven more then 10 miles (for U.S. models) 10 km (for Canadian
models) after seeing the 0 percent message. Afterward, it shows the subsequent driving distance.
The maintenance should be performed immediately.
You can change the information display from the engine oil life display to the odometer, the trip
meter, or the outside temperature (if equipped) every time you press and release the SEL/RESET
button.
When the engine oil life is 0 percent or negative mileage, the maintenance minder indicator
(Wrench Icon) remains on even if you change the information display.
Immediately have the service performed, and make sure to reset the display. Refer to "Resetting
the Engine Oil Life Display".
All maintenance items displayed in the information display are in code. For an explanation of
Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to Indicator Based
Service. See: Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance Services/Indicator Based
Service
Reference:
- For information regarding interpreting the maintenance minder display refer to Maintenance
Required Lamp/Indicator / Description and Operation / "Reading the Maintenance Minder".
Reset the display after completing the required maintenance service. You will see "OIL LIFE 100%"
on the information display the next time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
2. Press the SEL/RESET knob (or button if equipped) repeatedly until the engine oil life is
displayed.
3. Press the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life and the maintenance
item code(s) will blink.
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 1516
4. Press the SEL/RESET button for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will
disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100."
If you complete the required service but do not reset the display, or reset the display without doing
the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance intervals. This can lead to serious
mechanical problems because there will no longer be an accurate record of when maintenance is
needed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the
emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have
been cleared, or if the PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the
emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to
complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished.
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start
the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are
complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete!. To set each code,
drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures.
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YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module (tach), and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK,
replace the original gauge control module (tach).
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 4. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is a short indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P), then disconnect the HDS.
7. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A31 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A31), the SRS unit, and the DLC
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive: Testing and Inspection
NOTE:
- If the IMA system indicator stays on or never comes on, do this troubleshooting (if no DTCs are
set).
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the IMA system indicator.
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Go to step 5.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait 2 seconds, and watch the
IMA system indicator.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 5.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module, and recheck. If the IMA system indicator
circuit is OK, replace the original gauge control module.
YES - Go to step 7.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 9. Remove the IPU lid.
10. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 12. Measure
voltage between body ground and BCM module connector terminal A29.
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1524
Is there 12 V battery voltage?
NO - -
Repair open or short in the wire between the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box and the BCM module (A29).
13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Reconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 15. Turn the
ignition switch ON (II). 16. Measure voltage between body ground and BCM module connector
terminals A2 and A3.
NO - Go to step 20.
17. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 18. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 19. Check for
continuity between body ground and BCM module connector terminals A8*, A9, A22*, and A23
individually.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the BCM module if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
BCM module, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good BCM module,
replace the original BCM module
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1525
NO - Repair open in the wire between G902 and the BCM module (A8, A9), or between G102 and
the BCM module (A22, A23).
20. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 21. Remove MCM relay 1 (A).
23. Measure voltage between body ground and MCM relay 1 4P connector terminals No. 2 and No.
4 individually.
NO - Repair open or short to ground in the wire between the No. 62 + IMA (7.5 A) and MCM relay
1. Also replace the No. 62 + IMA (7.5 A) fuse. Repair short to ground in the wire between MCM
relay 1, MCM relay 2, and the BCM module (A2, A3, A11).
24. Reinstall MCM relay 1. 25. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 26. Turn the ignition
switch ON (II). 27. Measure voltage between body ground and BCM module connector terminal
A11.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1526
28. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 29. Check for continuity between BCM module connector terminal
A2 and A3 and MCM relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 1.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the BCM module if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
BCM module, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good BCM module,
replace the original BCM module.
NO - Repair open in the wire between MCM relay 1 and the BCM module (A2*, A3).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as the suspension or the fuel tank from
the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial
weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change, causing the
vehicle to tip forward on the lift.
Vehicle Lift
1. Position the lift blocks (A) under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C).
2. Raise the lift a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise
the lift to its full height, and inspect the vehicle support points for solid contact with the lift blocks.
Safety Stands
To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame
vehicle lift. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only
by a jack.
Floor Jack
1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle,
put the shift lever in the P position. 2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor
jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or the rear jacking bracket (B). Center the jacking bracket
on the jack lift platform (C),
and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
4. Position the safety stands under the support points, and adjust them so the vehicle is level. 5.
Lower the vehicle onto the stands.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1536
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1537
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1539
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1540
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1541
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 1542
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1543
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: To disconnect the TPMS control unit from its bracket, insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket shown in (D) to release the hook, then slide out the
TPMS unit.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer
tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1550
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1551
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1552
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1554
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1555
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1556
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1557
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1558
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1559
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1561
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1562
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1563
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1564
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 1567
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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Page 1585
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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Page 1586
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Page 1587
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Page 1588
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: ^
If you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) before memorizing all four sensor IDs, the memorizing ID
is canceled.
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire back to specifications. 17. Repeat step
12 to 16 for all the other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
NOTE: ^
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1597
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core to deflate the
tire. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
NOTICE: Note these items to avoid damaging the tire pressure sensor: ^
^ Position the wheel as shown so the valve stem (B) is 90 degrees from the bead breaker (C) as
shown.
^ Do not position the bead breaker of the tire changer too close to the rim.
5. Position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C)
and will move away from it when the machine
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and the washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with
the valve stem (C) from the wheel.
NOTE: Check the nut and the washer, if they have deterioration or damage, replace them with new
ones during reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1598
7. Remove and replace the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, or when replacing the tire.
Installation
NOTE: Use only wheels that have a "TPMS" stamp (A) on them.
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface (E) should not exceed
the protrusion (F) of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing caught in the bead of the tire when
assembling the tire. Do not twist the sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1599
damage or deform the valve stem grommet.
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron
(B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will move
away from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Low Tire Pressure Indicator >
Component Information > Locations
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
- If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
- If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit set one or more of these codes:
DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure returns to normal, the control unit turns off the
indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the control unit detects a problem in the system
during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the low tire pressure indicator, stores the
DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36, or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1611
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1612
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
10. The InstallShield Wizard asks if you want to automatically start the WebVT application when
you start your computer. Select Yes.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1614
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1615
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1616
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 1617
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1618
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: To disconnect the TPMS control unit from its bracket, insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket shown in (D) to release the hook, then slide out the
TPMS unit.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer
tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1625
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1626
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1627
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1629
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1630
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1631
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1632
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1633
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1634
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver /
Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1636
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
> Page 1637
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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> Page 1640
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, then select the Enter button.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
The following table and screen are examples only.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
5. The VIN information appears automatically, but you must enter the mileage, and select the Enter
button.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1665
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: ^
If you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) before memorizing all four sensor IDs, the memorizing ID
is canceled.
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire back to specifications. 17. Repeat step
12 to 16 for all the other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 1669
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
NOTE: ^
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1671
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core to deflate the
tire. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
NOTICE: Note these items to avoid damaging the tire pressure sensor: ^
^ Position the wheel as shown so the valve stem (B) is 90 degrees from the bead breaker (C) as
shown.
^ Do not position the bead breaker of the tire changer too close to the rim.
5. Position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C)
and will move away from it when the machine
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and the washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with
the valve stem (C) from the wheel.
NOTE: Check the nut and the washer, if they have deterioration or damage, replace them with new
ones during reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1672
7. Remove and replace the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, or when replacing the tire.
Installation
NOTE: Use only wheels that have a "TPMS" stamp (A) on them.
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface (E) should not exceed
the protrusion (F) of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing caught in the bead of the tire when
assembling the tire. Do not twist the sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1673
damage or deform the valve stem grommet.
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron
(B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will move
away from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Tires: Customer Interest Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1682
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1685
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1686
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 1687
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
1693
Tire Application Chart
Tire Replacement Information
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
1696
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
1697
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
1698
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Check for bent or
deformed wheels. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure the axial runout by turning the
wheel.
4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout.
5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play, and make
sure the mating surfaces on the brake disc or the
6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service
limit, replace the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play while by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
^ Driver 07749-0010000
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or the brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1708
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new cotter pin after tightening the nut, and bend its end as
shown.
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C), then the bolt (D).
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1709
13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and the self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper pinch bolts and the new self-locking nuts.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The inner driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and the driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install a lock pin as shown after tightening the new castle nut.
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and the nuts, then raise the
suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and the
tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and the
mating surfaces of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from falling when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1711
5. Wash the knuckle and the hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press
a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base and a press.
NOTE: ^
Install the wheel bearing with the wheel speed sensor magnetic encoder (E) (brown color), toward
the inside of the knuckle.
^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, metal debris, and other foreign material from the encoder surface.
^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing.
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
Knuckle/Hub Bearing
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1714
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
Knuckle Replacement
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
NOTE: Apply multipurpose grease to the mating surfaces on the knuckle and the O-ring (D) during
reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1715
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
NOTE: Use the new upper arm mounting bolt during reassembly.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
NOTE: Use the new self-locking nut and the new adjusting bolt during reassembly.
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Suspension > Page 1716
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the normal brake
system (except the servo unit and power unit). Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and
retighten it if necessary.
Spindle nut
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
........................... 181 N-m (18.5 kgf-m, 134 lbf-ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Specifications
Wheel Fastener: Specifications
Wheel nuts
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
........................... 108 Nm (11.0 kgf-m, 79.6 lbf-ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Specifications
> Page 1724
NOTICE: ^
Do not use a hammer or air or electric impact tools to remove and install the wheel bolts.
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the brake
disc or the brake drum: front, rear. 3. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using the ball
joint remover (C), and keep the jaw (D) of ball joint remover vertical against the wheel
bolt.
NOTE: ^
If the angle of the remover against the wheel bolt is not square, readjust the ball joint remover by
turning the head (E) of the adjusting bolt (F).
^ Before installing the new wheel bolt, clean the mating surfaces on the bolt and the hub.
4. Insert the new wheel bolt (A) into the hub (B) while aligning the splined surfaces (C) on the hub
hole with the wheel bolt. Adjust the measurement
(D) with the washers (P/N 94101-12800 or equivalent) (E), then install a nut (P/N 90304-SC2-000
or equivalent) (F) hand-tight.
NOTE: ^
Degrease all around the wheel bolt and the threaded section of the nut.
^ Make sure the wheel bolt is installed vertically in relation to the hub disc surface.
^ Do not install the nut and the washers that have been used as tools on a vehicle.
5. Tighten the nut until the wheel bolt is drawn fully into the hub. Do not exceed the maximum
torque limit. Make sure there is no gap (G) between
NOTE: ^
If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque value when installing the wheel, replace
the front hub or the rear hub bearing unit as an assembly.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc or the brake drum and the
inside of the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Service and Repair
Towing
If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind
another vehicle with a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.
Emergency Towing
Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the best way of
transporting the vehicle.
To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with front towing hooks (A), front tie
down hook slots (B), rear towing hook (C), and rear tie down hook slots (D).
The towing hooks can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down
hook slots can be used to secure the vehicle to the truck.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Towing Information > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1728
Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear)
and lifts them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. This is an acceptable
way of towing the vehicle.
Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go
around parts of the frame or suspension, and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground.
The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is
attempted. This method of towing the vehicle is unacceptable.
If the vehicle cannot be transported by a flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the
ground. If the vehicle is damaged, and must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, or with
all four wheels on the ground, do this:
- Leave the ignition switch ACCESSORY (I) so the steering wheel does not lock.
- Make sure all accessories are turned off to minimize battery current draw.
It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).
NOTICE:
- Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If
you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine, the vehicle must be transported on a flat-bed.
- Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not
designed to support the vehicle's weight.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as the suspension or the fuel tank from
the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial
weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change, causing the
vehicle to tip forward on the lift.
Vehicle Lift
1. Position the lift blocks (A) under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C).
2. Raise the lift a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise
the lift to its full height, and inspect the vehicle support points for solid contact with the lift blocks.
Safety Stands
To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame
vehicle lift. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only
by a jack.
Floor Jack
1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle,
put the shift lever in the P position. 2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor
jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or the rear jacking bracket (B). Center the jacking bracket
on the jack lift platform (C),
and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
4. Position the safety stands under the support points, and adjust them so the vehicle is level. 5.
Lower the vehicle onto the stands.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1739
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1740
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1742
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1743
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1744
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1745
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1746
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1747
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1748
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1749
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1753
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1755
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1756
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1757
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1758
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1759
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1760
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1761
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1762
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1763
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1764
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1765
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1766
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1767
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Actuators and Solenoids - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the rocker arm oil control solenoid 1 connector (A),
the rocker arm oil control solenoid 2 connector (B), the rocker arm oil pressure
switch connector (C), and the rocker arm oil pressure sensor connector (D).
3. Remove the bolts (E). 4. Remove the rocker arm oil control valve (F). 5. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new rocker arm oil control valve filter (G).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications > Standards and Service Limits
Engine Assembly
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications > Standards and Service Limits > Page 1777
Compression Check: Specifications General Specifications
Engine Compression
Compression Pressure
.......................................................................................................................................... Above 980
kPa (10.0 kgf/cm2, 142 psi)
Maximum Variation
................................................................................................................................................. Within
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications > Page 1778
NOTE: After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the
PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector
(DLC). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle
and the PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI,
INSPECTION, then All INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8.
Remove the four intake side ignition coils. 9. Remove the four intake side spark plugs.
NOTE: Use a compression gauge with a connecting length (between the edge and the flange) of
less than 23 mm (0.9 in.).
11. Turn the IMA battery module switch OFF. 12. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with
the starter motor and measure the compression.
14. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
15. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 16. Install the four intake side spark
plugs. 17. Install the four intake side ignition coils. 18. Select PCM reset to cancel the ALL
INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 19. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 20. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedures. 21. Turn the IMA battery module switch ON. 22. Clear any
IMA DTCs that may have been set while doing this inspection procedure. 23. If the IMA battery
level gauge (BAT) displays no segment, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000
rpm without load (in N or P)
Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flange. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in
sequence.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Sprocket Removal
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Service and Repair Camshaft Sprocket Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Make a reference mark (A) across the camshaft sprocket
and the cam chain.
3. Apply new engine oil to the sliding surface of the cam chain tensioner through the oil return hole
in the cylinder head.
5. Hold the crankshaft pulley and set the socket wrench (A) on the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Sprocket Removal > Page 1788
6. Remove the maintenance bolt (B), and turn the camshaft clockwise to compress the cam chain
tensioner, then install the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt (C) in the
bolt hole (D) in the engine block through the maintenance hole and the cam chain tensioner (E).
NOTE: ^
Turning torque should not exceed 44 Nm (4.5 kgf-m, 33 lbf-ft) when turning the camshaft.
7. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt.
8. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt, then remove the camshaft sprocket.
1. Install the cam chain around the camshaft sprocket aligned with the reference mark (A), then
install the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flange.
3. Apply new engine oil to the sliding surface of the cam chain tensioner through the oil return hole
in the cylinder head.
4. Hold the crankshaft pulley and set the socket wrench (A) on the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft
Gear/Sprocket > Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Sprocket Removal > Page 1790
5. Turn the camshaft clockwise to compress the cam chain tensioner, then remove the 6 x 1.0 mm
bolt (B).
NOTE: ^
Turning torque should not exceed 44 Nm (4.5 kgf-m, 33 lbf-ft) when turning the camshaft.
6. Install the maintenance bolt (C) with a new washer (D). 7. Install the new cylinder head plug.
Camshaft Inspection
1. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 2. Put the camshaft, the camshaft holders, and the lost
motion holder on the cylinder head, then tighten the bolts to the specified torque.
3. Seat the camshaft by pushing it away from the camshaft pulley end of the cylinder head. 4. Zero
the dial indicator against the end of the camshaft, then push the camshaft back and forth and read
the end play. If the end play is beyond the
service limit, replace the cylinder head and recheck. If it is still beyond the service limit, replace the
camshaft.
5. Loosen the lost motion holder bolts and the camshaft holder bolts two turns at a time, in a
crisscross pattern. Then remove the lost motion holder
6. Lift the camshaft out of the cylinder head, wipe it clean, then inspect the lift ramps. Replace the
camshaft if any lobes are pitted, scored, or
excessively worn.
7. Clean the camshaft journal surfaces in the cylinder head, then set the camshaft back in place.
Place a plastigage strip across each journal. 8. Install the camshaft holders, then tighten the bolts
to the specified torque as shown in step 2. 9. Remove the camshaft holders. Measure the widest
part of plastigage on each journal.
^ If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has been
replaced, replace the cylinder head.
^ If the camshaft-to-holder clearance is beyond the service limit and the camshaft has not been
replaced, go to step 10.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1794
10. Check the total runout with the camshaft supported on V-blocks.
^ If the total runout of the camshaft is within the service limit, replace the cylinder head.
^ If the total runout is beyond the service limit, replace the camshaft and recheck the
camshaft-to-holder oil clearance. If the oil clearance is still beyond the service limit, replace the
cylinder head.
Camshaft: Service and Repair Rocker Arm Assembly and Camshaft Installation
Rocker Arm Assembly and Camshaft Installation
1. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 2. Apply new engine oil to the camshaft lobes and
journals. 3. Install the camshaft (A) rocker arm assembly (B), then install the lost motion assembly
(C) and the lost motion holder (D).
4. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flange. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in
sequence.
1. Remove the camshaft sprocket. 2. Loosen the rocker arm adjusting screws (A).
3. Remove the lost motion holder bolts and the camshaft holder bolts. To prevent damaging the
camshaft, loosen the bolts in sequence two turns at a
4. Remove the lost motion holder (A), the lost motion assembly (B), and the rocker arm assembly
(C), then remove the camshaft (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
1. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 2. Disassemble the rocker arm assembly. 3. Measure the
diameter of the shaft at the first rocker location.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm, and check it for an out-of-round condition.
6. Repeat for all the rockers and both shafts, If the clearance is over the limit, replace the rocker
shaft and all over-tolerance rocker arms. If any
intake rocker arm needs replacement, replace all five rocker arms in that set (intake 1st, 2nd, 3rd,
exhaust 1st and 2nd).
Rocker Arms
7. Inspect the rocker arm pistons (A). Push them manually. If they do not move smoothly, replace
the rocker arm set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1802
NOTE: ^
Apply new engine oil to the rocker arm pistons when reassembling.
^ When reassembling the intake 1st and exhaust 1st rocker arms (B), carefully apply air pressure
to the oil passage of the rocker arm.
8. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 9. Install the rocker arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1803
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arm Test
1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove
the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). 4. Push on the intake 1st
rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. Make sure that the intake 1st rocker arm and the intake 2nd
rocker arm (B) are
mechanically connected by the rocker arm pistons and that the intake 2nd rocker arm does not
move when pushed manually. Then move the intake 3rd rocker arm (C) for the No. 1 cylinder. The
intake 3rd rocker arm should move independently of the intake 1st rocker arm.
^ If the intake 2nd rocker arm does not move independently and the intake 3rd rocker arm moves
independently, go to step 5.
^ If the intake 2nd rocker arm moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker arm
assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 1st and 2nd rocker arms move
smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for the
cylinder as an assembly.
^ If the intake 3rd rocker arm does not moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker
arm assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 2nd and 3rd rocker arms
move smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for
the cylinder as an assembly.
5. Push on the exhaust 1st rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. Make sure that the exhaust 1st
rocker arm and the exhaust 2nd rocker arm (B) are
mechanically connected by the rocker arm pistons and that the exhaust 2nd rocker arm does not
move when pushed manually.
^ If the exhaust 2nd rocker arm does not move independently, go to step 6.
^ If the exhaust 2nd rocker arm moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker arm
assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the exhaust 1st and 2nd rocker arms
move smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for
the cylinder as an assembly.
6. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4.0
kgf/cm2, 47 psi). 7. Inspect the valve clearance. 8. Install the VTEC air adapter (A) to the cam
chain side inspection hole, then connect the air pressure regulator (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1804
9. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure.
10. Push on the intake 1st rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. Make sure that the intake la rocker
arm and the intake 3rd rocker arm (B) are
mechanically connected by the rocker arm pistons and that the intake 3rd rocker arm does not
move when pushed manually.
^ If the intake 3rd rocker arm does not move independently, go to step 11.
^ If the intake 3rd rocker arm moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker arm
assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 1st and 3rd rocker arms move
smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for the
cylinder as an assembly.
11. Tighten the valve on the air pressure regulator, then remove the VTEC air adapter. 12. Install
the VTEC air adapter (A) to the transmission side inspection hole, then connect the air pressure
regulator (B).
13. Move the intake 2nd rocker arm (A) and intake 3rd rocker arm (B) for the No. 1 cylinder. The
intake 2nd and intake 3rd rocker arm should move
^ If the intake 2nd and 3rd rocker arms move independently, go to step 14.
^ If the intake 2nd or intake 3rd rocker arm does not move independently, remove and disassemble
the rocker arm assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 1st and 2nd
rocker arms move or intake 1st and 3rd smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs
replacing, replace the rocker arms for the cylinder as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1805
14. Move the exhaust 2nd rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. The exhaust 2nd rocker arm
should move independently of the exhaust 1st rocker arm
(B).
^ If the exhaust 2nd rocker arm does not move independently, remove and disassemble the rocker
arm assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the exhaust 1st and 2nd rocker
arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker
arms for the cylinder as an assembly.
15. Tighten the valve on the air pressure regulator, then remove the VTEC air adapter. 16. Repeat
step 4 to 15 on the remaining cylinder's rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all the rocker
arms pass the test, go to step 17. 17. Install the cylinder head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
1. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 2. Apply new engine oil to the camshaft lobes and
journals. 3. Install the camshaft (A) rocker arm assembly (B), then install the lost motion assembly
(C) and the lost motion holder (D).
4. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flange. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in
sequence.
1. Remove the camshaft sprocket. 2. Loosen the rocker arm adjusting screws (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1808
3. Remove the lost motion holder bolts and the camshaft holder bolts. To prevent damaging the
camshaft, loosen the bolts in sequence two turns at a
4. Remove the lost motion holder (A), the lost motion assembly (B), and the rocker arm assembly
(C), then remove the camshaft (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1809
NOTE: ^
Identify parts as they are removed so they can be reinstalled in their original location.
^ Remove the rocker shaft bolts before disassembling the rocker arms.
^ Apply new engine oil to the threads of the rocker shaft bolts when installing them.
^ When replacing the rocker arm assembly, remove the fastening hardware from the new rocker
arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1814
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1815
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1817
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1818
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1819
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1820
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1821
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1822
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1823
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1824
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1828
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1830
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1831
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1832
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1833
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1834
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1835
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1836
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1837
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1838
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1839
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1840
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1841
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1842
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits > Page 1848
Connecting Rod Bearing: Specifications General Specifications
Rod Bearing
Clearance
..............................................................................................................................................................
0.020 - 0.038 mm (0.0008 - 0.0015 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1849
1. To check rod bearing-to-journal oil clearance, remove the bearing cap. 2. Remove the
connecting rod cap and the bearing half. 3. Clean the crankshaft rod journal and the bearing half
with a clean shop towel. 4. Place Plastigage across the rod journal. 5. Reinstall the bearing half
and cap, and torque the bolts.
NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flanges. Do not rotate the crankshaft during
inspection.
6. Remove the rod cap and the bearing half and measure the widest part of the Plastigage.
7. If the Plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the upper half of the bearing, install a
new, complete bearing with the same color code,
and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the bearings or the caps to adjust
clearance.
8. If the Plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the
color listed above or below that one), and check
clearance again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or
smaller bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.
2. Each rod falls into one of four tolerance ranges (from 0 to 0.024 mm (0.0009 inch), in 0.006 mm
(0.0002 inch) increments) depending on the size
of its big end bore. It's then stamped with a number or bar (1, 2, 3, or 4) indicating the range. You
may find any combination of 1, 2, 3, or 4 in any engine. If the codes are indecipherable because of
an accumulation of dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire brush or scraper. Clean them only
with solvent or detergent.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1850
Connecting Rod Journal Code Location 3. The connecting rod journal codes are stamped on the
crankshaft.
4. Use the big end bore codes and the rod journal codes to select appropriate replacement
bearings from the following table.
Connecting rod
Connecting Rod
1. Remove the oil pump. 2. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge (A) between
the connecting rod (B) and the crankshaft (C).
3. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod, and recheck. If it
is still out-of-tolerance; replace the crankshaft. 4. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial
indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back
toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit.
5. If the end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers and recheck, if it is still out-of-tolerance,
replace the crankshaft.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection > Page 1860
1. Measure the diameter of each connecting rod bolt at point A and point B with a micrometer.
3. If the difference in diameter is out of tolerance, replace the connecting rod bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1861
Connecting Rod: Service and Repair
Disassembly
2. Temporarily install the pilot collar over the piston pin base insert (A), and adjust the piston base
head inserts as shown, then tighten the screws (B).
3. Assemble and adjust the length of the piston pin driver head and shaft to 57 mm (2.2 inch).
4. With the arrow on top of the piston pointing up, place the piston assembly (A) on the special tool
(B). Be sure you position the recessed flat area
of the piston against the piston base head inserts (C) as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1862
5. Press the pin (D) out with the pin driver (E), the pilot collar (F), and a hydraulic press.
Inspection
NOTE: Inspect the piston, piston pin, and connecting rod when they are at room temperature.
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and the piston pin hole diameter on the
piston.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1863
4. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and the connecting rod small end
diameter.
Reassembly
1. Assemble the piston with the arrow (A) pointing up and the connecting rod with the embossed
marks (B) on the same side.
2. Insert the pilot collar (A) into the piston and the connecting rod.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod, Engine
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1864
3. With the arrow on top of the piston and the embossed mark on the connecting rod facing up,
place the piston assembly (B) on the special tool (C).
Be sure you position the recessed flat area of the piston against the piston base head inserts (D)
as shown.
4. Press the pin (E) in with the pin driver (F) and a hydraulic press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Coolant Drain Plug,
Cylinder Block > Component Information > Service and Repair
NOTE: When installing the drain bolt, always use a new washer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits > Page 1872
Main Bearing
Clearance
..............................................................................................................................................................
0.018 - 0.038 mm (0.0007 - 0.0014 in.)
Limit .....................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 0.050 mm (0.0020 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1874
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Service and Repair
1. Remove the bearing cap and the bearing halves. 2. Clean each main journal and bearing half
with a clean shop towel. 3. Place one strip of Plastigage across each main journal. 4. Reinstall the
bearing half and the bearing cap, then torque the bolts to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft. lbs.) + 40°.
5. Remove the bearing cap and the bearing half again, and measure the widest part of the
Plastigage.
6. If the Plastigage measures too wide or too narrow, remove the crankshaft, and remove the upper
half of the bearing. Install a new, complete
bearing with the same color code, and recheck the clearance. Do not file, shim, or scrape the
bearings or the caps to adjust clearance.
7. If the Plastigage shows the clearance is still incorrect, try the next larger or smaller bearing (the
color listed above or below that one), and check
again. If the proper clearance cannot be obtained by using the appropriate larger or smaller
bearings, replace the crankshaft and start over.
Crankshaft Bore Code Location 1. Letters have been stamped on the end of the block as a code for
the size of each of the five main journal bores. Write down the crank bore codes.
If you can't read the codes because of accumulated dirt and dust, do not scrub them with a wire
brush or scraper. Clean them only with solvent or detergent.
Main Journal Code Location 2. The main journal codes are stamped on the crankshaft.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main Bearing
> Component Information > Specifications > Page 1875
3. Use the crank bore codes and the crank journal codes to select the appropriate replacement
bearings from the following table.
Crankshaft Journal
Runout .................................................................................................................................................
..................................... 0.03 mm (0.0012 in.) max.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection
Crankshaft: Testing and Inspection Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection
1. Remove the oil pump. 2. Measure the connecting rod end play with a feeler gauge (A) between
the connecting rod (B) and the crankshaft (C).
3. If the connecting rod end play is out-of-tolerance, install a new connecting rod, and recheck. If it
is still out-of-tolerance; replace the crankshaft. 4. Push the crankshaft firmly away from the dial
indicator, and zero the dial against the end of the crankshaft. Then pull the crankshaft firmly back
toward the indicator; the dial reading should not exceed the service limit.
5. If the end play is excessive, replace the thrust washers and recheck, if it is still out-of-tolerance,
replace the crankshaft.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Connecting Rod and Crankshaft End Play Inspection > Page 1883
Crankshaft Inspection
Out-of-Round and Taper 1. Remove the crankshaft from the engine block. 2. Clean the crankshaft
oil passages with pipe cleaners or a suitable brush. 3. Clean the keyway and threads. 4. Measure
out-of round at the middle of each rod and the main journal in two places. The difference between
measurements on each journal must
5. Measure taper at the edges of each rod and the main journal. The difference between
measurements on each journal must not be more than the
service limit.
Journal Taper Standard (New): 0.005 mm (0.0002 inch) max. Service Limit: 0.010 mm (0.0004
inch)
Straightness 6. Place the engine block on the surface plate. 7. Clean and install the bearings on
the No. 1 and No. 5 journals of the engine block. 8. Lower the crankshaft into the engine block. 9.
Measure the runout on all of the main journals. Rotate the crankshaft two complete revolutions.
The difference between measurements on each
1. Remove the engine assembly. 2. Remove the IMA motor housing. 3. Remove the cam chain. 4.
Remove the cylinder head. 5. Remove the oil screen (A), then remove the oil pump (B).
6. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a
ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer
manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are
pushed out.
7. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a
time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are
loosened.
8. Remove the bearing cap. 9. Remove the connecting rod caps/bearings. Keep all caps/bearings
in order.
10. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1887
11. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their
respective caps. 12. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the pistons (B).
13. Reinstall the bearing cap and bearings on the engine block. 14. Reinstall the connecting rod
bearings and caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly. 15. To avoid mix-up on
reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the block, it
indicates the rod bore size.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1888
Crankshaft Installation
1. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with Plastigage. 2. Check the main bearing
clearance with Plastigage. 3. Install the bearing halves in the engine block and connecting rods. 4.
Apply a coat of new engine oil to the main bearings and rod bearings. 5. Hold the crankshaft so rod
journal No. 2 and rod journal No. 3 are straight up, and lower the crankshaft into the block. 6. Apply
new engine oil to the thrust washer surfaces. Install the thrust washers (A) in the No. 4 journal of
the engine block.
7. Inspect the connecting rod bolts. 8. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the connecting rod
bolts. 9. Seat the rod journals into connecting rod No. 1 and connecting rod No. 4. Line up the mark
(B) on the connecting rod and cap, then install the caps and bolts finger-tight.
10. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise, and seat the journals into connecting rod No. 2 and
connecting rod No. 3. Line up the mark on the connecting rod
11. Tighten the connecting rod bolts to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 ft. lbs.). 12. Tighten the connecting
rod bolts an additional 90°.
NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back
to step 7 of the procedure.
13. Remove any old liquid gasket from the bearing cap mating surfaces. 14. Clean and dry the
bearing cap mating surfaces. 15. Apply a 1.5 mm wide bead of the liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004,
08718-0001, 08718-0002, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, along the broken lines
(A).
NOTE: Do not install components if too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket (for
P/N 08718-0002, no more than 4 minutes, for all others, no more than 5 minutes). Instead, remove
the old residue and reapply the liquid gasket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1889
16. Put the bearing capon the engine block. 17. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the bearing
cap bolts. 18. Tighten the bearing cap bolts in sequence to 25 Nm (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft. lbs.).
20. Clean the excess liquid gasket off the engine block. 21. Use the special tools to drive anew
crankshaft oil seal squarely into the block to the specified installed height.
22. Measure the distance between the crankshaft (A) and the oil seal (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1890
23. Install the dowel pins (A) and a new O-ring (B) on the oil pump (C), then align the inner rotor
with the crankshaft, and install the oil pump.
24. Install the oil screen (D) with a new gasket (E). 25. Install the cylinder head. 26. Install the cam
chain. 27. Install the IMA motor. 28. Install the engine assembly.
NOTE: When any crankshaft or connecting rod bearing is replaced, after assembly it is necessary
to run the engine at idling speed until it reaches normal operating temperature, then continue to run
it for about 15 minutes.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer -
Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Specifications
Crankshaft Pulley
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
......................... 37 Nm (3.8 kgf-m, 27 lbf-ft) + 90°
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer -
Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1894
Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Hold the crankshaft pulley with the holder handle (A) and the holder attachment
(B).
5. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a 19 mm socket (C) and a breaker bar. 6. Remove the
under-floor three way catalytic converter (TWC). 7. Support the engine with a jack and a wood
block under the oil pan. 8. Remove the lower torque rod mounting bolts. 9. Remove the crankshaft
pulley while moving the engine forward.
Installation
1. Clean the crankshaft pulley (A), crankshaft (B), bolt (C), and washer (D). Lubricate with new
engine oil as shown.
2. Install the crankshaft pulley while moving the engine forward and loosely install the crankshaft
pulley. 3. Install the lower torque rod mounting bolts. 4. Remove the jack and the wood block. 5.
Install the under-floor TWC. 6. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt. Do not use an impact wrench.
-1 Hold the pulley with the holder handle (A) and pulley holder attachment (B), then tighten the bolt
to 37 Nm (3.8 kgf-m, 27 lbf-ft) with a torque
wrench and a heavy duty 19 mm socket (C). If the pulley bolt or crankshaft are new, tighten the bolt
to 177 Nm (18.0 kgf-m, 130 lbf-ft), then remove the bolt and tighten it to 37 Nm (3.8 kgf-m, 27
lbf-ft).
-2 Mark the bolt head (D) and the crankshaft pulley (E) as shown, then tighten the bolt an additional
90° (The mark on the bolt head lines up with
7. Install the drive belt. 8. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 9. Install the front
wheels.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits > Page 1900
Piston: Specifications General Specifications
Piston
Dimension
.............................................................................................................................................................
72.98 - 72.99 mm (2.8732 - 2.8736 in.)
Clearance
..............................................................................................................................................................
0.010 - 0.040 mm (0.0004 - 0.0016 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1901
1. Remove the crankshaft and the pistons. 2. Check the piston for distortion or cracks. 3. Measure
the piston diameter (A) at a point 13 mm (0.5 inch) from the bottom of the skirt.
4. Measure wear and taper in direction X and Y at three levels in each cylinder as shown. If
measurements in any cylinder are beyond the Oversize
Bore Service Limit, replace the engine block. If the engine block is to be rebored, refer to step 7
after reboring.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1902
5. Hone any scored or scratched cylinder bores. 6. Check the top of the engine block for warpage.
Measure along the edges and across the center as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1903
7. Calculate the difference between the cylinder bore diameter and the piston diameter. If the
clearance is near or exceeds the service limit, inspect
1. Remove the engine assembly. 2. Remove the IMA motor housing. 3. Remove the cam chain. 4.
Remove the cylinder head. 5. Remove the oil screen (A), then remove the oil pump (B).
6. If you can feel a ridge of metal or hard carbon around the top of each cylinder, remove it with a
ridge reamer (A). Follow the reamer
manufacturer's instructions. If the ridge is not removed, it may damage the pistons as they are
pushed out.
7. Remove the bearing cap bolts. To prevent warpage, unscrew the bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a
time; repeat the sequence until all bolts are
loosened.
8. Remove the bearing cap. 9. Remove the connecting rod caps/bearings. Keep all caps/bearings
in order.
10. Lift the crankshaft out of the engine block, being careful not to damage the journals.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1906
11. Remove the upper bearing halves from the connecting rods, and set them aside with their
respective caps. 12. Use the wooden handle of a hammer (A) to drive out the pistons (B).
13. Reinstall the bearing cap and bearings on the engine block. 14. Reinstall the connecting rod
bearings and caps after removing each piston/connecting rod assembly. 15. To avoid mix-up on
reassembly, mark each piston/connecting rod assembly with its cylinder number.
NOTE: The existing number on the connecting rod does not indicate its position in the block, it
indicates the rod bore size.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1907
Piston: Service and Repair Piston, Pin, and Connecting Rod Replacement
Disassembly
2. Temporarily install the pilot collar over the piston pin base insert (A), and adjust the piston base
head inserts as shown, then tighten the screws (B).
3. Assemble and adjust the length of the piston pin driver head and shaft to 57 mm (2.2 inch).
4. With the arrow on top of the piston pointing up, place the piston assembly (A) on the special tool
(B). Be sure you position the recessed flat area
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1908
of the piston against the piston base head inserts (C) as shown.
5. Press the pin (D) out with the pin driver (E), the pilot collar (F), and a hydraulic press.
Inspection
NOTE: Inspect the piston, piston pin, and connecting rod when they are at room temperature.
3. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and the piston pin hole diameter on the
piston.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1909
4. Check the difference between the piston pin diameter and the connecting rod small end
diameter.
Reassembly
1. Assemble the piston with the arrow (A) pointing up and the connecting rod with the embossed
marks (B) on the same side.
2. Insert the pilot collar (A) into the piston and the connecting rod.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1910
3. With the arrow on top of the piston and the embossed mark on the connecting rod facing up,
place the piston assembly (B) on the special tool (C).
Be sure you position the recessed flat area of the piston against the piston base head inserts (D)
as shown.
4. Press the pin (E) in with the pin driver (F) and a hydraulic press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1911
Piston: Service and Repair Piston Installation
Piston Installation
If the Crankshaft is Already Installed 1. Set the crankshaft to BDC for each cylinder. 2. Apply new
engine oil to the piston, inside of the ring compressor, and the cylinder bore. 3. Attach the ring
compressor to the piston/connecting rod assembly, and check that the bearing is securely in place.
4. Position the piston/connecting rod assembly with the arrow (A) facing the cam chain side of the
engine.
5. Position the piston connecting rod assembly in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden
handle of a hammer (A).
Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to prevent the rings from expanding before
entering the cylinder bore.
6. Stop after the ring compressor pops free, and check the connecting rod-to-crank journal
alignment before pushing the piston into place. 7. Check the connecting rod bearing clearance with
Plastigage. 8. Inspect the connecting rod bolts. 9. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads, then
install the rod caps with bearings. Torque the bolts to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 ft. lbs.).
NOTE: Remove the connecting rod bolt if you tightened it beyond the specified angle, and go back
to step 7 of the procedure.
If the Crankshaft is Not Installed 1. Remove the connecting rod caps, then install the ring
compressor, and check that the bearing is securely in place. 2. Apply new engine oil to the piston,
inside of the ring compressor, and cylinder bore, then attach the ring compressor to the
piston/connecting rod
assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Crankshaft and Piston Removal > Page 1912
3. Position the arrow (A) facing the timing chain side of the engine.
4. Position the piston in the cylinder, and tap it in using the wooden handle of a hammer (A).
Maintain downward force on the ring compressor (B) to
prevent the rings from expanding before entering the cylinder bore.
Piston Ring
Second ................................................................................................................................................
.................. 0.030 - 0.055 mm (0.0012 - 0.0022 in.) Limit ...................................................................
................................................................................................................................. 0.13 mm (0.005
in.)
Second ................................................................................................................................................
.......................... 0.35 - 0.50 mm (0.014 - 0.020 in.) Limit ...................................................................
................................................................................................................................. 0.65 mm (0.026
in.)
Oil ........................................................................................................................................................
......................... 0.20 - 0.70 mm (0.008 - 0.028 in.) Limit ....................................................................
................................................................................................................................ 0.80 mm (0.031
in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1918
Piston Ring: Service and Repair
1. Remove the piston from the engine block. 2. Using a ring expander (A), remove the old piston
rings (B).
3. Clean all the ring grooves thoroughly with a squared-off broken ring, or a ring groove cleaner
with a blade to fit the piston grooves. File down the
blade, if necessary. The top ring grooves are 1.0 mm (0.04 inch) wide, the second ring groove is
1.2 mm (0.05 inch) wide, and the oil ring groove is 2.0 mm (0.08 inch) wide. Do not use a wire
brush to clean the ring grooves, or cut the ring grooves deeper with the cleaning tool.
NOTE: If the piston is to be separated from the connecting rod, do not install new rings yet.
4. Using a piston, push a new ring (A) into the cylinder bore 15 - 20 mm (0.6 - 0.8 inch) from the
bottom.
^ If the gap is too small, check to see if you have the proper rings for your engine.
^ If the gap is too large, recheck the cylinder bore diameter against the wear limits. If the bore is
over the service limit, the engine block must be rebored.
Standard (New): 0.15 - 0.30 mm (0.006 - 0.012 inch) Service Limit: 0.60 mm (0.024 inch)
Second Ring:
Standard (New): 0.35 - 0.50 mm (0.014 - 0.020 inch) Service Limit: 0.65 mm (0.026 inch)
Oil Ring:
Standard (New): 0.20 - 0.70 mm (0.008 - 0.028 inch) Service Limit: 0.80 mm (0.031 inch)
6. Install the rings as shown. The top ring (A) has a Z1R mark and the second ring (B) has a R
mark. The manufacturing marks (C) must be facing
upward.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1919
7. After installing a new set of rings, measure the ring-to-groove clearances:
8. Rotate the rings in their grooves to make sure they do not bind. 9. Position the ring end gaps as
shown:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston Ring, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 1920
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1925
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the chain case.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem on No.
1 cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should
5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B)
until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1926
6. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
Specified Torque 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 lbf-ft) Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.
7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft
sprocket with the top edge of the chain case.
8. Check the valve clearance on the No. 3 cylinder; adjust it if necessary 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
chain.
10. Check the valve clearance on the No. 4 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 1927
12. Check the valve clearance on the No. 2 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 13. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disabling the fuel
pump and then disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the HDS
to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump
OFF, then start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: -
Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump.
- A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them
as needed.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 12. Remove
the air cleaner. 13. Remove the cover (A) and the quick-connect fitting cover (B).
14. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 15. Place a rag or shop towel
over the quick-connect fitting (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1931
16. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
17. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 18. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the
auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1932
3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Remove the fuel fill cap. 6. Disconnect the negative cable from
the battery. 7. Remove the air cleaner. 8. Remove the cover (A) and quick-connect fitting cover (B).
9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 1933
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
14. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection
1. Remove the rocker arm assembly. 2. Disassemble the rocker arm assembly. 3. Measure the
diameter of the shaft at the first rocker location.
5. Measure the inside diameter of the rocker arm, and check it for an out-of-round condition.
6. Repeat for all the rockers and both shafts, If the clearance is over the limit, replace the rocker
shaft and all over-tolerance rocker arms. If any
intake rocker arm needs replacement, replace all five rocker arms in that set (intake 1st, 2nd, 3rd,
exhaust 1st and 2nd).
Rocker Arms
7. Inspect the rocker arm pistons (A). Push them manually. If they do not move smoothly, replace
the rocker arm set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1938
NOTE: ^
Apply new engine oil to the rocker arm pistons when reassembling.
^ When reassembling the intake 1st and exhaust 1st rocker arms (B), carefully apply air pressure
to the oil passage of the rocker arm.
8. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 9. Install the rocker arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1939
Rocker Arm Assembly: Testing and Inspection VTEC Rocker Arm Test
1. Start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove
the cylinder head cover. 3. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). 4. Push on the intake 1st
rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. Make sure that the intake 1st rocker arm and the intake 2nd
rocker arm (B) are
mechanically connected by the rocker arm pistons and that the intake 2nd rocker arm does not
move when pushed manually. Then move the intake 3rd rocker arm (C) for the No. 1 cylinder. The
intake 3rd rocker arm should move independently of the intake 1st rocker arm.
^ If the intake 2nd rocker arm does not move independently and the intake 3rd rocker arm moves
independently, go to step 5.
^ If the intake 2nd rocker arm moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker arm
assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 1st and 2nd rocker arms move
smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for the
cylinder as an assembly.
^ If the intake 3rd rocker arm does not moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker
arm assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 2nd and 3rd rocker arms
move smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for
the cylinder as an assembly.
5. Push on the exhaust 1st rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. Make sure that the exhaust 1st
rocker arm and the exhaust 2nd rocker arm (B) are
mechanically connected by the rocker arm pistons and that the exhaust 2nd rocker arm does not
move when pushed manually.
^ If the exhaust 2nd rocker arm does not move independently, go to step 6.
^ If the exhaust 2nd rocker arm moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker arm
assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the exhaust 1st and 2nd rocker arms
move smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for
the cylinder as an assembly.
6. Check that the air pressure on the shop air compressor gauge indicates over 400 kPa (4.0
kgf/cm2, 47 psi). 7. Inspect the valve clearance. 8. Install the VTEC air adapter (A) to the cam
chain side inspection hole, then connect the air pressure regulator (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1940
9. Loosen the valve on the regulator, and apply the specified air pressure.
10. Push on the intake 1st rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. Make sure that the intake la rocker
arm and the intake 3rd rocker arm (B) are
mechanically connected by the rocker arm pistons and that the intake 3rd rocker arm does not
move when pushed manually.
^ If the intake 3rd rocker arm does not move independently, go to step 11.
^ If the intake 3rd rocker arm moves independently, remove and disassemble the rocker arm
assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 1st and 3rd rocker arms move
smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker arms for the
cylinder as an assembly.
11. Tighten the valve on the air pressure regulator, then remove the VTEC air adapter. 12. Install
the VTEC air adapter (A) to the transmission side inspection hole, then connect the air pressure
regulator (B).
13. Move the intake 2nd rocker arm (A) and intake 3rd rocker arm (B) for the No. 1 cylinder. The
intake 2nd and intake 3rd rocker arm should move
^ If the intake 2nd and 3rd rocker arms move independently, go to step 14.
^ If the intake 2nd or intake 3rd rocker arm does not move independently, remove and disassemble
the rocker arm assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the intake 1st and 2nd
rocker arms move or intake 1st and 3rd smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs
replacing, replace the rocker arms for the cylinder as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Rocker Arm and Shaft Inspection > Page 1941
14. Move the exhaust 2nd rocker arm (A) for the No. 1 cylinder. The exhaust 2nd rocker arm
should move independently of the exhaust 1st rocker arm
(B).
^ If the exhaust 2nd rocker arm does not move independently, remove and disassemble the rocker
arm assembly, and check that the rocker arm pistons between the exhaust 1st and 2nd rocker
arms move smoothly. If any rocker arm or rocker arm piston needs replacing, replace the rocker
arms for the cylinder as an assembly.
15. Tighten the valve on the air pressure regulator, then remove the VTEC air adapter. 16. Repeat
step 4 to 15 on the remaining cylinder's rocker arms with each piston at TDC. When all the rocker
arms pass the test, go to step 17. 17. Install the cylinder head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
1. Reassemble the rocker arm assembly. 2. Apply new engine oil to the camshaft lobes and
journals. 3. Install the camshaft (A) rocker arm assembly (B), then install the lost motion assembly
(C) and the lost motion holder (D).
4. Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flange. Tighten each bolt two turns at a time in
sequence.
1. Remove the camshaft sprocket. 2. Loosen the rocker arm adjusting screws (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1944
3. Remove the lost motion holder bolts and the camshaft holder bolts. To prevent damaging the
camshaft, loosen the bolts in sequence two turns at a
4. Remove the lost motion holder (A), the lost motion assembly (B), and the rocker arm assembly
(C), then remove the camshaft (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 1945
NOTE: ^
Identify parts as they are removed so they can be reinstalled in their original location.
^ Remove the rocker shaft bolts before disassembling the rocker arms.
^ Apply new engine oil to the threads of the rocker shaft bolts when installing them.
^ When replacing the rocker arm assembly, remove the fastening hardware from the new rocker
arm assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover Removal
1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Remove the eight ignition coils. 3. Remove the harness holder (A)
and the breather hose (B).
1. Check the spark plug seals (A) for damage. If the seal is damaged, replace the spark plug seals.
2. Thoroughly clean the head cover gasket (B) and the groove. 3. Install the head cover gasket in
the groove of the cylinder head cover (C). 4. Check that the mating surfaces are clean and dry. 5.
Apply a 3.0 mm wide bead of the liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or
087180009, on the chain case mating areas (A).
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
6. Once the cylinder head cover (A) is on the cylinder head, slide the cover slightly back and forth
to seat the head cover gasket.
7. Inspect the cover washer (B). Replace any washer that is damaged or deteriorated. 8. Tighten
the bolts in three steps. In the final step, tighten all bolts in sequence shown to 12 Nm (1.2 kgf-m,
8.7 lbf-ft).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Cylinder Head Cover Removal > Page 1951
9. Install the breather hose (A) and the harness holder (B).
10. Install the eight ignition coils. 11. Install the engine cover. 12. After assembly, wait at least 30
minutes before filling the engine with oil.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the valves. 2. Slide the valve out of its guide about 10 mm (0.39 in.), then measure the
guide-to-stem clearance with a dial indicator while rocking the stem in the
^ If the measurement exceeds the service limit, recheck it using a new valve.
^ If the measurement is now within the service limit, reassemble using a new valve.
^ If the measurement with a new valve still exceeds the service limit, go to step 3.
3. Subtract the O.D. of the valve stem, measured with a micrometer, from the I.D. of the valve
guide, measured with an inside micrometer or ball
gauge. Take the measurements in three places along the valve stem and three places inside the
valve guide. The difference between the largest guide measurement and the smallest stem
measurement should not exceed the service limit.
Intake Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance Standard (New): 0.020 - 0.050 mm (0.0008 - 0.0020 in.)
Service Limit: 0.08 mm (0.003 in.)
Exhaust Valve Stem-to-Guide Clearance Standard (New): 0.050 - 0.080 mm (0.0020 - 0.0031 in.)
Service Limit: 0.11 mm (0.004 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1955
same procedure can be done using the valve guide driver and a conventional hammer.
3. Select the proper replacement guides, and chill them in the freezer section of a refrigerator for
about an hour. 4. Use a hot plate or oven to evenly heat the cylinder head to 300°F (150°C).
Monitor the temperature with a cooking thermometer. Do not get the
head hotter than 300°F (150°C); excessive heat may loosen the valve seats.
5. Working from the camshaft side, use the driver and an air hammer to drive the guide about 2
mm (0.1 in.) towards the combustion chamber. This
will knock off some of the carbon and make removal easier. Hold the air hammer directly in line
with the valve guide to prevent damaging the driver. Wear safety goggles or a face shield.
6. Turn the head over, and drive the guide out toward the camshaft side of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1956
7. If a valve guide won't move, drill it out with a 8 mm (5/16 in.) bit, then try again.
NOTE: Drill guides only in extreme cases; you could damage the cylinder head if the guide breaks.
8. Take out the new guide(s) from the freezer, one at a time, as you need them. 9. Apply a thin coat
of new engine oil to the outside of the new valve guide. Install the guide from the camshaft side of
the head; use the valve guide
driver to drive the guide into the specified installed height (A) of the guide (B). If you have all eight
guides to do, you may have to reheat the head.
10. Coat both the reamer and the valve guide with cutting oil. 11. Rotate the reamer clockwise the
full length of the valve guide bare.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1957
12. Continue to rotate the reamer clockwise while drawing it from the bore. 13. Thoroughly wash
the guide in detergent and water to remove any cutting residue. 14. Check the clearances with a
valve. Verify that a valve slides in the intake and exhaust valve guides without sticking. 15. Inspect
the valve seating, if necessary renew the valve seat using a valve seat cutter.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Valve Seat: Service and Repair
1. Inspect valve Stem-to-guide clearance. If the valve guides are worn, replace them before cutting
the valve seats. 2. Renew the valve seats in the cylinder head using a valve seat cutter.
3. Carefully cut a 45° seat, removing only enough material to ensure a smooth and concentric seat.
4. Bevel the upper edge of the seat with the 30° cutter and the lower edge of the seat with the 60°
cutter. Check the width of the seat and adjust
accordingly.
5. Make one more very light pass with the 45° cutter to remove any possible burrs caused by the
other cutters.
Valve Seat Width Intake: Standard (New): 0.850 - 1.150 mm (0.0335 - 0.0453 in.) Service Limit:
1.60 mm (0.063 in.) Exhaust: Standard (New): 1.250 - 1.550 mm (0.0492 - 0.0610 in.) Service
Limit: 2.00 mm (0.079 in.)
6. After resurfacing the seat, inspect for even valve seating: Apply Prussian Blue compound (A) to
the valve face. Insert the valve in its original
location in the head, then lift it and snap it closed against the seat several times.
7. The actual valve seating surface (B), as shown by the blue compound, should be centered on
the seat.
^ If it is too high (closer to the valve stem), you must make a second cut with the 60° cutter to move
it down, then one more cut with the 45° cutter to restore seat width.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Seat > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 1961
^ If it is too low (close to the valve edge), you must make a second cut with the 30° cutter to move it
up, then make one more cut with the 45° cutter to restore seat width.
NOTE: The final cut should always be made with the 45° cutter.
8. Insert the intake and exhaust valves in the head, and measure the valve stem installed height
(A).
9. If the valve stem installed height is over the service limit, replace the valve and recheck. If it is
still over the service limit, replace the cylinder
Valve Inspection
Identify the valves and valve springs as they are removed so that each item can be reinstalled in its
original position.
1. Remove the cylinder head. 2. Remove the rocker arm assembly and the camshaft. 3. Using an
appropriate-sized socket (A) and a plastic mallet (B), lightly tap the spring retainer to loosen the
valve cotters.
4. Install the valve spring compressor attachment and the valve spring compressor. Compress the
valve spring and remove the valve cotters.
5. Remove the valve spring compressor, the valve spring compressor attachment, the spring
retainer, and the valve spring. 6. Install the valve guide seal remover.
1. Coat the valve stems with new engine oil. Install the valves in the valve guides. 2. Check that the
valves move up and down smoothly. 3. Install the spring seats on the cylinder head. 4. Install the
new valve seals (A) using the stem seal driver (B).
NOTE: The exhaust valve seal (C) has a black spring (D), and the intake valve seal (E) has a white
spring (F). They are not interchangeable.
5. Install the valve spring. Place the end of the valve spring with closely wound coils toward the
cylinder head. 6. Install the spring retainer. 7. Install the valve spring compressor attachment and
the valve spring compressor. Compress the spring and install the valve cotters.
8. Remove the valve spring compressor and the valve spring compressor attachment. 9. Lightly tap
the end of each valve stem two or three times with a plastic mallet (A) to ensure proper seating of
the valve and the valve cotters. Tap
the valve stem only along its axis so you do not bend the stem.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Valve, Spring, and Valve Seal Removal > Page 1969
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the belt for cracks or damage. If the belt is cracked or damaged, replace it. 2. Check that
the auto-tensioner indicator (A) is within the standard range (B) as shown. If it is out of the standard
range, replace the drive belt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1974
1. Move the auto-tensioner (A) to relieve tension from the drive belt (B), and remove the drive belt.
-Lightweight and slim design -Equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point securing attachments
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Tools and Equipment > Electrical / Mechanical Repair > Page 1977
-Works on most Honda applications
Honda serpentine belt wrench equipped with 14mm and 19mm, 12 point secured sockets, for
engagement every 30 degrees. Ideal for strong tensioners used on 2006 and newer civics.
1. Check whether there is a change in the position of the auto-tensioner indicator before starting
the engine and after starting the engine. If there is a
without any abnormal noise. If the tensioner does not move smoothly or you hear abnormal noise,
replace the auto-tensioner.
5. Remove the auto-tensioner. 6. Install the tensioner pulley. 7. Clamp the auto-tensioner (A) by
using two 8 mm bolts (B) and a vise (C) as shown. Do not clamp the auto-tensioner itself.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1982
8. Set the torque wrench (D) on the pulley bolt. 9. Align the indicator (E) on the tensioner arm with
the center mark (F) on the tensioner base by using the torque wrench, and measure the torque. If
NOTE: If the indicator exceeds the center mark, recheck the torque.
1. Remove the drive belt. 2. Remove the water pump pulley bolts.
Oil Pressure
Temperature ........................................................................................................................................
........................................................... 176°F (80°C)
At Idle ..................................................................................................................................................
.......................... 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) min.
If the low oil pressure indicator stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the oil
level is correct:
1. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (A), and install the special tools, then reinstall the
rocker arm oil pressure sensor.
2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the
problem before continuing. 3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at
least twice). The pressure should be:
Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C) Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi)
min. At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi) min.
Engine Oil
Engine Oil
API Classification
.................................................................................................................................... Make sure the
label says "For Gasoline Engines". SAE Viscosity ..............................................................................
............................................................................................................................... 0W-20
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1998
Engine Oil: Service and Repair
1. Warm up the engine. 2. Remove the five clips and the two bolts securing the engine undercover,
then open the engine undercover.
3. Remove the drain bolt (A), and drain the engine oil.
4. Reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer (B). 5. Refill with the recommended oil.
6. Install the engine undercover. 7. Run the engine for more than 3 minutes, then check for oil
leakage. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS)
to the data link connector (DLC).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 1999
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 11. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and
the powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC
circuit.
12. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS. 13. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGES MENU
with the HDS. 14. Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 15. Select
RESETTING THE ENGINE OIL LIFE with the HDS.
NOTE: If you changed the ATF at the same time with the engine oil, select RESETTING THE
ENGINE OIL LIFE AND ATF with the HDS instead.
filter rubber seal. Use only filters with a built-in bypass system.
5. Install the oil filter by hand. 6. After the rubber seal seats, tighten the oil filter clockwise with the
oil filter wrench.
7. If four numbers or marks (1 to 4 or V to VVVV) are printed around the outside of the filter, you
can use the following procedure to tighten the
filter.
^ Spin the filter on until its seal lightly seats against the oil pan, and note which number or mark is
at the bottom.
^ Tighten the filter by turning it clockwise three numbers or marks from the one you noted. For
example, if number 2 is at the bottom when the seal is seated, tighten the filter until the number 1
comes around the bottom.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 2003
8. After installation, fill the engine with oil up to the specified level. Check for oil leakage during and
after running the engine for more than 3
minutes.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter Adapter > Component
Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the oil filter. 2. Remove the oil filter feed pipe.
3. Install the two 20 x 1.5 mm nuts (A) onto the new-oil filter feed pipe. Hold the nut with a wrench,
then tighten the other nut.
4. Tighten the oil filter feed pipe to 74 Nm (7.5 kgf-m, 54 lbf-ft), then remove the nuts from the oil
filter feed pipe. 5. Install the oil filter.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Specifications
Oil Pan
Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the each side of the
crankshaft pulley and the drive plate.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal
Oil Pan: Service and Repair Oil Pan Removal
1. Drain the engine oil. 2. If the engine is already out of the vehicle, go to step 15. 3. Remove the
steering joint bolt. 4. Remove the front wheels. 5. Remove the engine undercover and the splash
shield. 6. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly. 7. Disconnect the A/C compressor
clutch connector, then remove the A/C compressor. 8. Remove the intake manifold stay and the
harness clamp. 9. Remove the under-floor three way catalytic converter (TWC).
10. Disconnect the suspension lower arm ball joints. 11. Disconnect the steering gearbox harness
connectors. 12. Attach the universal eyelet, and the engine hanger. 13. Remove the lower torque
rod mounting bolts. 14. Remove the front subframe. 15. Remove the harness clamps (A) and the
mounting bolt (B), then remove the dipstick tube (C).
18. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan. 19. Insert a flat blade screwdriver where shown, and
separate the oil pan from the engine block.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal > Page 2012
NOTE: Lower the oil pan carefully not to damage the IMA motor (resolver stator).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal > Page 2013
1. Remove any old liquid gasket from the oil pan mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 2. Clean
and dry the oil pan mating surfaces and the O-ring groove. 3. Install the dowel pins (A), and install
the new O-ring (B) and oil pan gasket (C) on the oil pan.
4. Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08718-0001, 08718-0002, or 08718-0009, to the engine block mating
surface of the oil pan.
NOTE: ^
Apply a 1.5 mm wide bead of the liquid gasket along the broken line (A).
^ Apply a 5.0 mm wide bead of the liquid gasket to the shaded area (B).
^ Do not install components if too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket (for P/N
08718-0002, no more than 4 minutes, for all others, no more than 5 minutes). Instead, remove the
old residue and reapply the liquid gasket.
NOTE: Raise the oil pan carefully not to damage IMA motor (resolver stator).
6. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps. Wipe off the excess liquid gasket on the each side of the
crankshaft pulley and the drive plate.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal > Page 2014
7. Tighten the two bolts securing the transmission.
9. Install the dipstick tube (A) with a new O-ring (B), then install the mounting bolt (C) and the
harness clamps (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Oil Pan Removal > Page 2015
10. If the engine is still in the vehicle, do the following steps. 11. Install the front subframe. 12.
Install the lower torque rod mounting bolts. 13. Remove the engine hanger and universal eyelet.
14. Connect the steering gearbox harness connectors. 15. Connect the suspension lower arm ball
joints. 16. Install the under-floor three way catalytic converter (TWC). 17. Install the intake manifold
stay and the harness clamp. 18. Install the A/C compressor, then connect the A/C compressor
clutch connector. 19. Install the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly. 20. Install the engine
undercover and the splash shield. 21. Install the front wheels. 22. Install the steering joint bolt. 23.
After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine oil. 24. Check the wheel
alignment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (c) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector (A), then remove the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and the switch mounting hole. 6. Apply a very
small amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
7. Loosely install the compressor mounting bolts and the compressor through bolt in the numbered
sequence shown. Failure to follow this sequence
8. Install the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly. 9. Install the engine undercover and the splash
shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2030
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2031
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2035
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2036
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
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Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2038
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2039
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2040
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2044
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2046
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2047
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2048
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2050
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2051
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2052
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2053
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2056
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2058
Oil Pressure
Temperature ........................................................................................................................................
........................................................... 176°F (80°C)
At Idle ..................................................................................................................................................
.......................... 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi) min.
If the low oil pressure indicator stays on with the engine running, check the engine oil level. If the oil
level is correct:
1. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (A), and install the special tools, then reinstall the
rocker arm oil pressure sensor.
2. Start the engine. Shut it off immediately if the gauge registers no oil pressure. Repair the
problem before continuing. 3. Allow the engine to reach operating temperature (fan comes on at
least twice). The pressure should be:
Engine Oil Temperature: 176°F (80°C) Engine Oil Pressure: At Idle: 70 kPa (0.7 kgf/cm2, 10 psi)
min. At 3,000 rpm: 340 kPa (3.5 kgf/cm2, 50 psi) min.
Intake Manifold
Install the intake manifold assembly (A) and tighten the bolts/nuts in a crisscross pattern in two or
three steps, beginning with the inner bolt. Use a new gasket (B).
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Intake Manifold
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2068
Intake Manifold
Removal 1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove the resonator. 4.
Remove the air intake duct. 5. Remove the air cleaner. 6. Remove the front grill cover.
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Specifications > Page 2069
7. Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height. 8. Remove the front wheels. 9. Remove the splash
shield.
10. Remove the intake manifold stay bolts (A) and the A/C compressor harness clamp (B).
11. Lower the vehicle on the hoist. 12. Remove the water bypass hose (A) and the vacuum hose
(B), then disconnect the throttle body connector (C).
15. Disconnect the fuel injector harness connectors (A), the rocker arm oil control solenoid
connectors (B), and the EOP sensor connector (C), then
3. Connect the engine wire harness to the clamps (A), then connect the fuel injector harness
connectors (B) and the rocker arm oil control solenoid
6. Install the water bypass hose (A) and the vacuum hose (B), then connect the throttle body
connector (C).
7. Raise the vehicle on the hoist to full height. 8. Install the intake manifold stay bolts (A), then
install the A/C compressor harness clamp (B).
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Specifications > Page 2073
9. Install the splash shield.
10. Install the front wheels. 11. Lower the vehicle on the hoist. 12. Install the front grill cover.
13. Install the air cleaner. 14. Install the air intake duct. 15. Install the resonator. 16. Install the
engine cover. 17. Clean up any spilled engine coolant. 18. After installation, check that all tubes,
hoses, and connectors are installed correctly. 19. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed
air from the cooling system with the heater valve open.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2079
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2080
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2082
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Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2083
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2084
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2085
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2086
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2087
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2088
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2089
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2093
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2095
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2096
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2097
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2098
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2099
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2100
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2101
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2102
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2103
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2104
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2105
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2106
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2107
Driver 07749-0010000
1. Remove the IMA motor housing. 2. Remove the transmission end crankshaft oil seal. 3. Clean
and dry the crankshaft oil seal housing. 4. Apply a light coat of multipurpose grease to the
crankshaft and to the lip of the seal. 5. Using the special tools, drive in the crankshaft oil seal until
the driver attachment bottoms against the engine block end cover. Align the hole in the
driver attachment with the pin on the crankshaft.
6. Measure the distance between the crankshaft (A) and the oil seal (B).
7. Clean any excess grease off the crankshaft, and check that the oil seal lip is not distorted. 8.
Install the IMA motor housing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Front Crankshaft Seal
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Front Crankshaft Seal: Service and Repair
^ Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
1. Use the handle driver and attachment to drive a new oil seal squarely into the chain case to the
specified installed height.
2. Measure the distance between the chain case surface (A) and the oil seal (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sender > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (c) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector (A), then remove the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and the switch mounting hole. 6. Apply a very
small amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
7. Loosely install the compressor mounting bolts and the compressor through bolt in the numbered
sequence shown. Failure to follow this sequence
8. Install the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly. 9. Install the engine undercover and the splash
shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Variable Valve
Timing Actuator Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Sprocket Removal
Camshaft Gear/Sprocket: Service and Repair Camshaft Sprocket Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Make a reference mark (A) across the camshaft sprocket
and the cam chain.
3. Apply new engine oil to the sliding surface of the cam chain tensioner through the oil return hole
in the cylinder head.
5. Hold the crankshaft pulley and set the socket wrench (A) on the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Sprocket Removal > Page 2136
6. Remove the maintenance bolt (B), and turn the camshaft clockwise to compress the cam chain
tensioner, then install the 6 x 1.0 mm bolt (C) in the
bolt hole (D) in the engine block through the maintenance hole and the cam chain tensioner (E).
NOTE: ^
Turning torque should not exceed 44 Nm (4.5 kgf-m, 33 lbf-ft) when turning the camshaft.
7. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the camshaft sprocket bolt.
8. Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt, then remove the camshaft sprocket.
1. Install the cam chain around the camshaft sprocket aligned with the reference mark (A), then
install the camshaft sprocket on the camshaft.
2. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then tighten the bolt.
NOTE: Apply new engine oil to the bolt threads and flange.
3. Apply new engine oil to the sliding surface of the cam chain tensioner through the oil return hole
in the cylinder head.
4. Hold the crankshaft pulley and set the socket wrench (A) on the camshaft sprocket bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Camshaft Gear/Sprocket >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Camshaft Sprocket Removal > Page 2138
5. Turn the camshaft clockwise to compress the cam chain tensioner, then remove the 6 x 1.0 mm
bolt (B).
NOTE: ^
Turning torque should not exceed 44 Nm (4.5 kgf-m, 33 lbf-ft) when turning the camshaft.
6. Install the maintenance bolt (C) with a new washer (D). 7. Install the new cylinder head plug.
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark (A) lines up with the
pointer (B).
5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the crankshaft
pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under the engine
block.
10. Remove the ground cable (A), then remove the side engine mount bracket (B).
11. Disconnect the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector (A), then remove the dipstick tube
mounting bolt (B) and the harness clamps (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2143
12. Remove the chain case (A), then remove the crankshaft position (CKP) pulse plate (B).
13. Measure the cam chain separation. If the distance is less than the service limit, replace the cam
chain and the cam chain tensioner.
14. Apply new engine oil to the sliding surface of the cam chain tensioner slider (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2144
15. Hold the cam chain tensioner slider with a screwdriver, then remove the bolt (B), and loosen
the bolt (C). 16. Remove the cam chain tensioner slider.
17. Remove the cam chain tensioner (A) and the cam chain guide (B).
1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket
with the pointer (B) on the oil pump.
2. Set the No. 1 piston at TDC. The "UP" mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top,
and the TDC grooves (B) on the camshaft sprocket
3. Install the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored piece (A) aligned with the TOG
mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket.
4. Install the cam chain on the camshaft sprocket with the pointer (A) aligned with the center of the
two colored pieces (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2146
5. Apply new engine oil to the threads of the cam chain tensioner mounting bolt (A).
6. Install the cam chain tensioner (B) and the cam chain guide (C). 7. Install the cam chain
tensioner slider, and tighten the lower side bolt loosely.
8. Apply new engine oil to the sliding surface of the cam chain tensioner slider (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2147
9. Turn the cam chain tensioner clockwise to compress the cam chain tensioner slider. Install the
remaining bolt, then tighten the two bolts.
10. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is damaged, replace the chain case oil
seal. 11. Remove any old liquid gasket from the chain case mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes.
12. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 13. Apply liquid gasket, P/N
08717-0004,08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, evenly to the cylinder head and engine
block mating surface of
the chain case. Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE: ^
Apply a 1.5 mm wide bead of liquid gasket along the broken lines (A).
^ Apply a 3.0 mm wide bead of liquid gasket to the engine block upper surface contact areas (B) on
the chain case.
^ If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
14. Install the crankshaft position (CKP) pulse plate (A) and the chain case (B).
NOTE: ^
^ Do not run the engine for at least 3 hours after installing the chain case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2148
15. Install the harness clamps (A) and the dipstick tube mounting bolt (B), then connect the CKP
sensor connector (C).
16. Install the side engine mount bracket (A), then tighten the mounting bolts and nut in the
numbered sequence shown.
17. Install the ground cable (B). 18. Remove the jack and the wood block. 19. Install the oil pan. 20.
Install the crankshaft pulley. 21. Install the cylinder head cover. 22. Install the water pump pulley.
23. Install the drive belt.
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Information > Service and Repair > Cam Chain Removal > Page 2149
24. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 25. Install the front wheels. 26. Do the
crankshaft position (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain Tensioner >
Component Information > Specifications
Caution: Incorrect removal or installation of the timing chain can result in damage to internal engine
components.
For complete Timing Chain Removal and Installation information, please refer to Timing Chain;
Service and Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Specifications
Timing Cover
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2168
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2169
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2170
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2171
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2172
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2173
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2174
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2178
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2180
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2181
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2182
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2183
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2184
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2185
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2188
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2190
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Actuator Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure switch (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Variable Valve Timing >
Variable Valve Timing Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the rocker arm oil control solenoid 1 connector (A),
the rocker arm oil control solenoid 2 connector (B), the rocker arm oil pressure
switch connector (C), and the rocker arm oil pressure sensor connector (D).
3. Remove the bolts (E). 4. Remove the rocker arm oil control valve (F). 5. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new rocker arm oil control valve filter (G).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
Fuel Pressure.......................................................................................................................................
..........270 - 320 kpa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2212
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > System Information > Specifications > Page 2213
'07 model
2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure
gauge. 3. Reinstall the air cleaner (B). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle.
5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed.
The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when
- If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting.
The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). -
- If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then
recheck the fuel pressure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle position to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The EPS signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications > Page 2218
- The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Headlight OFF
1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the
HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 5. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
6. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with high electric load (A/C switch on, temperature set to max
cool, blower fan on High, and headlights on high
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2223
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disabling the fuel
pump and then disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the HDS
to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump
OFF, then start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: -
Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump.
- A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them
as needed.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 12. Remove
the air cleaner. 13. Remove the cover (A) and the quick-connect fitting cover (B).
14. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 15. Place a rag or shop towel
over the quick-connect fitting (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 2228
16. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
17. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 18. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the
auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 2229
3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Remove the fuel fill cap. 6. Disconnect the negative cable from
the battery. 7. Remove the air cleaner. 8. Remove the cover (A) and quick-connect fitting cover (B).
9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 2230
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
14. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing
Order > Component Information > Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Information > Specifications
Ignition Timing: Specifications
Ignition Timing
....................................................................................................................................... 10 ° ± 2 °
BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Information > Specifications > Page 2237
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition
Timing > System Information > Specifications > Page 2238
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
8. Connect the timing light to the exhaust side No. 1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the
PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM.
Torque: ................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2242
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. ILFR6J11K DENSO ..............................................................
...........................................................................................................................................
SK20HPR-L11
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2243
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and the ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sandblaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of
specification.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
listed sparkplugs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2244
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 18 N.m
Engine Assembly
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits > Page 2249
Compression Check: Specifications General Specifications
Engine Compression
Compression Pressure
.......................................................................................................................................... Above 980
kPa (10.0 kgf/cm2, 142 psi)
Maximum Variation
................................................................................................................................................. Within
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications > Page 2250
NOTE: After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the
PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector
(DLC). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle
and the PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI,
INSPECTION, then All INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8.
Remove the four intake side ignition coils. 9. Remove the four intake side spark plugs.
NOTE: Use a compression gauge with a connecting length (between the edge and the flange) of
less than 23 mm (0.9 in.).
11. Turn the IMA battery module switch OFF. 12. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with
the starter motor and measure the compression.
14. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
15. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 16. Install the four intake side spark
plugs. 17. Install the four intake side ignition coils. 18. Select PCM reset to cancel the ALL
INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 19. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 20. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedures. 21. Turn the IMA battery module switch ON. 22. Clear any
IMA DTCs that may have been set while doing this inspection procedure. 23. If the IMA battery
level gauge (BAT) displays no segment, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000
rpm without load (in N or P)
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2254
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the chain case.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem on No.
1 cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should
5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B)
until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2255
6. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
Specified Torque 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 lbf-ft) Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.
7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft
sprocket with the top edge of the chain case.
8. Check the valve clearance on the No. 3 cylinder; adjust it if necessary 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
chain.
10. Check the valve clearance on the No. 4 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2256
12. Check the valve clearance on the No. 2 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 13. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications
Water Pump
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2260
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Remove the
auto-tensioner. 4. Turn the water pump pulley counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. If it
doesn't turn smoothly, replace the water pump.
NOTE: When you check the water pump, you may see a small amount of "weeping" from the bleed
holes (A). This is normal.
5. Install the auto-tensioner. 6. Install the drive belt. 7. Install the engine undercover and the splash
shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2261
1. Remove the engine undercover, and the splash shield. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Drain the
engine coolant. 4. Remove the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
5. Remove the auto-tensioner. 6. Remove the five bolts securing the water pump, then remove the
water pump (A) with water pump pulley.
7. Inspect and clean the O-ring groove and the mating surface with the engine block. 8. Install the
water pump with a new O-ring (B) in the reverse order of removal. 9. Clean up any spilled engine
coolant.
10. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed air from the cooling system with the heater
valve open. 11. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Auxiliary Water Pump > Component
Information > Diagrams
1. When the engine is cool, drain engine coolant from the radiator. 2. Remove the air cleaner
housing assembly. 3. Disconnect the connector (A). Slide the hose clamps (B) back, then
disconnect the inlet heater hose (C) and the outlet heater hose (D). Remove the
NOTE: Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain into a clean drip pan.
Be sure not to let coolant spill on the auxiliary electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant
spills, rinse it off immediately.
4. Remove the bolt, the upper bracket (A), bushings (B), and the auxiliary electric water pump (C).
* = Including the coolant in the reserve tank and that remaining in the engine. Reserve Tank
capacity = 0.41 L (0.108 US gal)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2271
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
Always use Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in
corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. Honda All Season Antifreeze/Coolant
Type 2 is a mixture of 50 % antifreeze and 50 % water. Premixing is not required.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2272
Coolant Check
1. Look at the coolant level in the coolant reservoir. Make sure it is between the MAX mark (A) and
the MIN mark (B).
2. If the coolant level in the coolant reservoir is at or below the MIN mark, add coolant to bring it
between the MIN mark and the MAX mark, then
Coolant Replacement
1. Start the engine. Set the heater temperature control dial to maximum heat, then turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). Make sure the engine and
2. Remove the radiator cap. 3. Remove the five clips and the two bolts securing the engine
undercover, then open the engine undercover. 4. Loosen the drain plug (A), and drain the coolant.
5. Remove the drain bolt (A) from the rear side of the engine block.
6. After the coolant has drained, reinstall the drain bolt with a new washer. 7. Tighten the radiator
drain plug securely. 8. Loosen the air bleed bolt (A) on the connecting pipe joint.
9. Pour Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 (P/N OL999-9001) into the radiator and coolant
reservoir, and tighten the bleed bolt as soon as
10. Pour Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 into the radiator up to the base of the filler
neck.
NOTE: ^
Always use Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2. Using a non-Honda coolant can result in
corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail.
^ Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2 is a mixture of 50% antifreeze and 50% water. Do not
add water.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2274
11. Loosely install the radiator cap. 12. Start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the radiator
fan comes on at least twice). 13. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator, and add
Honda Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant Type 2, if needed. 14. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run
the engine again, and check for leaks. 15. Clean up any spilled engine coolant. 16. If the
maintenance minder required engine coolant replacement, reset the maintenance minder, and this
procedure is complete. If the maintenance
17. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 18. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the
data link connector (DLC). 19. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 20. Make sure the HDS
communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain control module (PCM). If it doesn't
communicate, troubleshoot the DLC
circuit.
21. Select BODY ELECTRICAL with the HDS. 22. Select ADJUSTMENT in the GAUGE MENU
with the HDS. 23. Select RESET in the MAINTENANCE MINDER with the HDS. 24. Select
MAINTENANCE SUB ITEM 5 RESET with the HDS. 25. Reset the maintenance information
display.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Drain Plug, Cylinder Block >
Component Information > Service and Repair
NOTE: When installing the drain bolt, always use a new washer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2284
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2285
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2287
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2288
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2289
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2290
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2291
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2292
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2293
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2294
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2298
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2300
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2301
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2302
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2303
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2304
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2305
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2306
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2307
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2308
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2309
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2310
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2311
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2312
1. Disconnect the 2P connectors from the radiator and A/C condenser fan motors.
2. Test each motor by connecting battery power to terminal No. 2 and ground to terminal No. 1. 3. If
a motor fails to run or does not run smoothly, replace it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2320
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair >
ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair >
ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 2328
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve
Cable > Component Information > Adjustments
2. From under the dash, disconnect the heater valve cable housing from the cable clamp (A), and
disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the air
3. With the heater valve cable detached at both ends, make sure the cable moves freely with no
binding. Replace the heater valve cable if it does not
move freely.
4. Set the temperature control dial to Max Cool (Lo) with the ignition switch to ON (II). 5. Attach the
heater valve cable (B) to the air mix control linkage (C) as shown step 2. Hold the end of the heater
valve cable housing against the stop
(D), then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A).
NOTE: Make sure the ring-end of the cable is pushed all the way to the base of the pin on air mix
control linkage.
6. From under the hood, turn the heater valve arm (C) to the fully closed position as shown, and
hold it. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the
heater valve arm, and gently pull on the heater valve cable housing to take up any slack, then
install the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve
Cable > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 2333
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
Radiator Test
1. Wait until the engine is cool, then carefully remove the radiator cap and fill the radiator with
engine coolant to the top of the filler neck. 2. Attach a commercially available pressure tester (A) to
the radiator, and apply a pressure of 93 - 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 - 18 psi).
3. Inspect for engine coolant leaks and a drop in pressure. 4. Remove the tester, and reinstall the
radiator cap. 5. Check for engine oil in the coolant and/or coolant in the engine oil.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 2337
Radiator: Service and Repair
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the engine undercover and the
splash shield. 4. Remove the engine cover. 5. Remove the resonator. 6. Remove the intake air
duct. 7. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 8. Remove the front grille cover.
9. Remove the clips (A) and the radiator mount upper bracket/cushion (B).
10. Disconnect the hood latch switch connector (A), then remove the mounting bolts (B) and the
clamps (C).
11. Disconnect the reservoir hose (A) and remove the mounting bolts (B), then remove the water
filler (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 2338
12. Remove the harness clamps (A), then disconnect the radiator fan motor connector (B), A/C
condenser fan motor connector (C), and the harness
clamps (D).
14. Disconnect the upper radiator hose (A) and the lower radiator hose (B), then remove the water
lower pipe mounting bolts (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 2339
15. Raise the vehicle on the lift to full height. 16. Drain the CVT fluid (CVTF). 17. Disconnect the
ATF cooler hoses (A) and the lower radiator hose (B).
18. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor 2 connector (C), then remove the
clamp (D). 19. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 20. Disconnect the upper radiator hose (A) and the
water filler hose (B).
21. Remove the mounting bolts (A), then pull up the radiator fan shroud assembly (B) and the A/C
condenser fan shroud assembly (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 2340
22. Pull up the radiator (A), then remove the ECT sensor 2 (B), the drain plug (C), the O-rings (D),
and the lower cushions (E).
23. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the upper and lower cushions are
set securely. 24. Install the bulkhead in the reverse order of removal. Apply touch-up paint to the
bulkhead mounting bolts. 25. Adjust the hood latch alignment. 26. Refill the radiator with engine
coolant, and bleed the air from the cooling system with the heater valve open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cap > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection
1. Remove the radiator cap (A). Wet its seal with engine coolant, then install it on a commercially
available pressure tester (B).
2. Apply a pressure of 93 - 123 kPa (0.95 - 1.25 kgf/cm2, 14 - 18 psi). 3. Check for a drop in
pressure. 4. If the pressure drops, replace the cap.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Auxiliary Water Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 2356
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System >
Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 2365
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Specifications
Thermostat: Specifications
Standard Thermostat
Thermostat Test
Replace the thermostat if it is in the stuck open,position at room temperature. To test a closed
thermostat:
1. Suspend the thermostat (A) in a container of water. Do not let the thermometer (B) touch the
bottom of the hot container.
2. Heat the water, and check the temperature with a thermometer. Check the temperature at which
the thermostat first opens, and at which it is fully
open.
Standard Thermostat Lift Height: Above 8.0 mm (0.31 in.) Starts Opening: 176 - 183°F (80 - 84°C)
Fully Open: 203°F (95°C)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2370
Thermostat: Service and Repair
Thermostat Replacement
Removal
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 3. Disconnect the upper radiator
hose (A), the lower radiator hose (B), the heater hoses (C), and the water bypass hose (D).
4. Remove the water passage (A), then remove the thermostat (B).
Installation
1. Remove old liquid gasket from the water passage, thermostat housing mating surfaces, bolts,
and bolt holes. 2. Apply a 1.5 mm wide bead of the liquid gasket on the water passage, P/N
08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, along the
broken lines (A). Install the component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed with 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
3. Install the rubber seal (A) on the thermostat (B), then install the thermostat with the pin (C) up.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2371
NOTE: After assembly, wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with coolant.
5. Install the upper radiator hose (A), the lower radiator hose (B), the heater hoses (C), and the
water bypass hose (D).
6. Install the air cleaner assembly. 7. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, and bleed air from the
cooling system with the heater valve open.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications
Water Pump
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2375
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Remove the
auto-tensioner. 4. Turn the water pump pulley counterclockwise. Check that it turns freely. If it
doesn't turn smoothly, replace the water pump.
NOTE: When you check the water pump, you may see a small amount of "weeping" from the bleed
holes (A). This is normal.
5. Install the auto-tensioner. 6. Install the drive belt. 7. Install the engine undercover and the splash
shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 2376
1. Remove the engine undercover, and the splash shield. 2. Remove the drive belt. 3. Drain the
engine coolant. 4. Remove the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
5. Remove the auto-tensioner. 6. Remove the five bolts securing the water pump, then remove the
water pump (A) with water pump pulley.
7. Inspect and clean the O-ring groove and the mating surface with the engine block. 8. Install the
water pump with a new O-ring (B) in the reverse order of removal. 9. Clean up any spilled engine
coolant.
10. Refill the radiator with engine coolant, then bleed air from the cooling system with the heater
valve open. 11. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
Warm Up/Three Way Catalytic Converter (WU-TWC) and Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC)
The WU-TWC/TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen
(NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen (N2), and water vapor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Warm Up TWC
1. Remove the A/F sensor (Sensor 1). 2. Remove the chamber cover. 3. Remove the under-floor
TWC. 4. Remove the secondary HO2S (Sensor 2). 5. Remove the right driveshaft, then remove the
intermediate shaft. 6. Remove the WU-TWC (A) and the gasket (B).
8. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new gasket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Warm Up TWC > Page 2384
2. Remove the converter cover (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with the new
gaskets (C) and the new self-locking nuts (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component Information
> Specifications
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software
Updates > Page 2401
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software
Updates > Page 2403
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange
Program Information
10-061
(Supersedes 10-061, dated October 8, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks.)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under DIAGNOSIS, Service Technician, a reference was added to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA
Battery Software and Hardware Updates.*
COVERAGE
This bulletin applies to all Honda IMA batteries, both in-warranty and out-of-warranty.
Only remanufactured IMA battery modules are available for repair; new units are not available. Any
internal failure requiring IMA battery module disassembly qualifies for this program. Follow the
warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin.
NOTE:
^ On out-of-warranty repairs, make sure to tell the customer that new units are not available and
that a remanufactured IMA battery module is used.
^ While Honda remanufactured batteries may reuse some components, the battery cells are
replaced with new parts.
Failed Part: Use the part number from the parts catalogue (example: 1D010-RMX-X01).
Part used for repair: Use the RM part number located at the bottom of the battery order form, or the
order status inquiry screen (example: 1D100-RMX-X05RM).
DIAGNOSIS
Service Advisor:
Interview the customer to get as much information as possible, such as where and when the
symptom occurs. This information is vital to the diagnosis, and it also helps determine whether
there is a problem with the IMA system. Write the complaint on the repair order.
Service Technician:
1. Confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the
customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the
Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX in the applicable service
manual, follow the diagnostic procedure:
- Select SERVICE.
- Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or DTC Troubleshooting from the list.
^ If the problem is still there or your diagnosis leads you to replace the IMA battery, go to step 3.
^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call 800-999-5901.
^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's district parts and service manager (DPSM).
* ^ For 2003-08 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA
Battery Software and Hardware Updates.*
IMA BATTERY ORDERING
Service Technician:
NOTE:
^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured IMA battery. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer
Service Group.
^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the
Reference Number only when there is a pre-existing Tech Line contact.
1. Go to an iN workstation.
2. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE, select Remanufactured Parts, then select IMA Battery
Order.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2410
3. Enter the VIN for the vehicle you are working on, then select Search.
4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the
problem with the information provided, select IMA
Battery Order.
5. Enter the mileage for the vehicle you are working on, and select Submit to view the IMA Battery
Order form.
Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make
sure the information is complete. This information is critical to the remanufacturing process.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2411
NOTE:
Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Order Status Inquiry screen on the iN. For
details, go to IMA BATTERY ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this
service bulletin.
7. You will receive a remanufactured IMA battery unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this
box and the packing materials.
You must return the failed IMA battery core in this box. Otherwise, your dealership risks being
billed a core loss charge of $3,000.
^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the
list.
^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the
list.
10. Put the failed IMA battery unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in.
NOTE:
^ Make sure the failed IMA battery core is not disassembled. If the core is disassembled, your
dealership will be debited a core loss charge of $3,000.
^ If you do not return the IMA battery in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited, and the
core will be sent back to your dealership.
Parts Manager:
11. The IMA Battery Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put
in the box with your core return:
^ Select Transactions.
^ Under Transaction Description, select IMA Battery Order, then go back to the top of the page and
select Search.
^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon.
^ Select Core/VIN.
^ Enter the serial number from the core being returned, then select Submit.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2412
13. Place the printed copies of the IMA Battery Order form and the Core Return Update
Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed IMA
battery core.
NOTE:
If you return a failed IMA battery core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited,
and the core will be sent back to your dealership.
^ Backtrack Dealers - Use the backtrack service provided by your daily delivery carrier to return the
IMA battery.
^ Non-Backtrack Dealers - Ship the failed IMA battery core to the appropriate location by using the
prepaid shipping label included with the new IMA battery.
NOTE:
^ If the IMA battery return form is incomplete or not included with the failed IMA core, you will be
charged a $50 diagnostic fee.
^ If the IMA battery core is not received at the specific address within 21 days from the order date
of the remanufactured IMA battery, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be
issued a core loss charge of $3,000.
Answer: Use the program whenever you are replacing an IMA battery.
Question: Who do I call for questions on the IMA battery order program?
Answer: For questions about the program, call the RPO Tech Line.
Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem, or if I have technical questions about
the IMA battery?
Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or
ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access
2. Under Search by Vehicle, enter the model, year, and enter a keyword like IMA or BATTERY,
then select Search.
3. If you cannot repair the problem with the service information provided, select Tech Line Help.
4. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT.
5. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line.
Answer: No.
Question: What year and model IMA batteries can I order through the IMA battery order program?
Question: There are several numbers on the battery module, which one is the serial number?
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2413
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2414
Answer: Refer to the images below for the proper location of the serial number.
Question: How do I obtain pricing or parts availability on remanufactured IMA batteries?
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2415
Answer: For IMA battery prices and availability, go to the iN home page and select Parts, select
Parts Locator, then select Parts Availability. Enter the part number found at the bottom the IMA
Battery Order form in line 1, enter the quantity desired, then select Submit.
The IMA battery price, availability, and shipping information is displayed in the Parts Availability
field.
Answer: To track your order, go to the IMA VIN Inquiry Acknowledgement screen on the iN.
4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, make sure the Order Status Inquiry for Corel
VIN is selected, then select Submit.
The IMA VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF
(Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER.
^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call (select option 2).
^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts.
^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled; contact your assigned parts center.
^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment.
^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2416
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 >
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 >
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 2421
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 >
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 2423
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Jan > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery
Software/Hardware Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid - ALL 2003-05 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2006-08 Civic Hybrid - ALL
January 7, 2011
(Supersedes 10-083, dated December 23, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
In the IMA Software Chart, the program P/Ns and identifiers for the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid were
changed.*
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
^ An original IMA battery type does not have a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer
case.
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K101-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101-RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
^ If only the software is being updated, first visually inspect the IMA battery to determine if it's an
original or new type. It is possible that a salvaged IMA battery may have been installed without the
IMA software being updated. After verifying the IMA battery type, install its matching software by
selecting the correct battery code from the IMA Software Chart.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Jan > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates > Page 2430
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DTC has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DTC P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Jan > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates > Page 2431
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware
Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid 2003-05 Civic Hybrid 2006-08 Civic Hybrid
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
Original IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2436
New IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K1O1-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101 - RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2437
3. The IMA Software Chart also indicates (in the example) that the correct battery code for
matching the IMA control unit's software to an
original-design IMA battery is "YHN." If you are only updating the software and not replacing the
IMA battery, visually check the installed IMA battery-an original IMA battery type does not have an
IMA battery code label.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
Follow these guidelines when installing IMA software:
^ If only the software is being updated, first visually inspect the IMA battery to determine if it's an
original or new type. It is possible that a salvaged IMA battery may have been installed without the
IMA software being updated. After verifying the IMA battery type, install its matching software by
selecting the correct battery code from the IMA Software Chart.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2438
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DIG has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DIG P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2439
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 08-062 > Aug > 08 >
Hybrid Systems - High Temp. Effect ON Hybrid Batteries
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid Systems - High Temp. Effect ON
Hybrid Batteries
08-062
August 6, 2008
Applies To: 2000-06 Insight - ALL 2003-09 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2005-07 Accord Hybrid - ALL
The high-voltage batteries in the 2000-06 Insight, the 2003-09 Civic Hybrid, and the 2005-07
Accord Hybrid can be affected and damaged by excessively high temperatures. The temperature in
some body shop paint booths can exceed 150° F. Therefore, during refinishing operations, the
paint booth temperature must be set at or below 150° F.
As a reminder, every Honda Hybrid has a sticker on the driver's door stating the maximum
temperature.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange
Program Information
10-061
(Supersedes 10-061, dated October 8, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks.)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under DIAGNOSIS, Service Technician, a reference was added to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA
Battery Software and Hardware Updates.*
COVERAGE
This bulletin applies to all Honda IMA batteries, both in-warranty and out-of-warranty.
Only remanufactured IMA battery modules are available for repair; new units are not available. Any
internal failure requiring IMA battery module disassembly qualifies for this program. Follow the
warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin.
NOTE:
^ On out-of-warranty repairs, make sure to tell the customer that new units are not available and
that a remanufactured IMA battery module is used.
^ While Honda remanufactured batteries may reuse some components, the battery cells are
replaced with new parts.
Failed Part: Use the part number from the parts catalogue (example: 1D010-RMX-X01).
Part used for repair: Use the RM part number located at the bottom of the battery order form, or the
order status inquiry screen (example: 1D100-RMX-X05RM).
DIAGNOSIS
Service Advisor:
Interview the customer to get as much information as possible, such as where and when the
symptom occurs. This information is vital to the diagnosis, and it also helps determine whether
there is a problem with the IMA system. Write the complaint on the repair order.
Service Technician:
1. Confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or have the
customer demonstrate the problem, then write down the
Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX in the applicable service
manual, follow the diagnostic procedure:
- Select SERVICE.
- Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or DTC Troubleshooting from the list.
^ If the problem is still there or your diagnosis leads you to replace the IMA battery, go to step 3.
^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call 800-999-5901.
^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's district parts and service manager (DPSM).
* ^ For 2003-08 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA
Battery Software and Hardware Updates.*
IMA BATTERY ORDERING
Service Technician:
NOTE:
^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured IMA battery. Do not call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer
Service Group.
^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the
Reference Number only when there is a pre-existing Tech Line contact.
1. Go to an iN workstation.
2. From the iN main menu, select SERVICE, select Remanufactured Parts, then select IMA Battery
Order.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2450
3. Enter the VIN for the vehicle you are working on, then select Search.
4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the
problem with the information provided, select IMA
Battery Order.
5. Enter the mileage for the vehicle you are working on, and select Submit to view the IMA Battery
Order form.
Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make
sure the information is complete. This information is critical to the remanufacturing process.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2451
NOTE:
Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Order Status Inquiry screen on the iN. For
details, go to IMA BATTERY ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS in this
service bulletin.
7. You will receive a remanufactured IMA battery unit packed in a reusable shipping box. Save this
box and the packing materials.
You must return the failed IMA battery core in this box. Otherwise, your dealership risks being
billed a core loss charge of $3,000.
^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the
list.
^ Online, enter keywords IMA REMOVAL, then select Battery Module Removal/Installation from the
list.
10. Put the failed IMA battery unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit came in.
NOTE:
^ Make sure the failed IMA battery core is not disassembled. If the core is disassembled, your
dealership will be debited a core loss charge of $3,000.
^ If you do not return the IMA battery in this same box, your warranty claim will be debited, and the
core will be sent back to your dealership.
Parts Manager:
11. The IMA Battery Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60 days. Print out a copy to put
in the box with your core return:
^ Select Transactions.
^ Under Transaction Description, select IMA Battery Order, then go back to the top of the page and
select Search.
^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon.
^ Select Core/VIN.
^ Enter the serial number from the core being returned, then select Submit.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by selecting the printer icon.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2452
13. Place the printed copies of the IMA Battery Order form and the Core Return Update
Acknowledgement into the core return box with the failed IMA
battery core.
NOTE:
If you return a failed IMA battery core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will be debited,
and the core will be sent back to your dealership.
^ Backtrack Dealers - Use the backtrack service provided by your daily delivery carrier to return the
IMA battery.
^ Non-Backtrack Dealers - Ship the failed IMA battery core to the appropriate location by using the
prepaid shipping label included with the new IMA battery.
NOTE:
^ If the IMA battery return form is incomplete or not included with the failed IMA core, you will be
charged a $50 diagnostic fee.
^ If the IMA battery core is not received at the specific address within 21 days from the order date
of the remanufactured IMA battery, your warranty claim will be debited, and your dealership will be
issued a core loss charge of $3,000.
Answer: Use the program whenever you are replacing an IMA battery.
Question: Who do I call for questions on the IMA battery order program?
Answer: For questions about the program, call the RPO Tech Line.
Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem, or if I have technical questions about
the IMA battery?
Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or
ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access
2. Under Search by Vehicle, enter the model, year, and enter a keyword like IMA or BATTERY,
then select Search.
3. If you cannot repair the problem with the service information provided, select Tech Line Help.
4. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT.
5. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line.
Answer: No.
Question: What year and model IMA batteries can I order through the IMA battery order program?
Question: There are several numbers on the battery module, which one is the serial number?
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2453
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2454
Answer: Refer to the images below for the proper location of the serial number.
Question: How do I obtain pricing or parts availability on remanufactured IMA batteries?
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2455
Answer: For IMA battery prices and availability, go to the iN home page and select Parts, select
Parts Locator, then select Parts Availability. Enter the part number found at the bottom the IMA
Battery Order form in line 1, enter the quantity desired, then select Submit.
The IMA battery price, availability, and shipping information is displayed in the Parts Availability
field.
Answer: To track your order, go to the IMA VIN Inquiry Acknowledgement screen on the iN.
4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, make sure the Order Status Inquiry for Corel
VIN is selected, then select Submit.
The IMA VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD REF
(Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER.
^ DENY - RPO Tech Line denied your order; call (select option 2).
^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts.
^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled; contact your assigned parts center.
^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment.
^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-061 > Mar > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Exchange Program Information > Page 2456
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Jan > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery
Software/Hardware Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid - ALL 2003-05 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2006-08 Civic Hybrid - ALL
January 7, 2011
(Supersedes 10-083, dated December 23, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
In the IMA Software Chart, the program P/Ns and identifiers for the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid were
changed.*
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
^ An original IMA battery type does not have a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer
case.
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K101-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101-RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
^ If only the software is being updated, first visually inspect the IMA battery to determine if it's an
original or new type. It is possible that a salvaged IMA battery may have been installed without the
IMA software being updated. After verifying the IMA battery type, install its matching software by
selecting the correct battery code from the IMA Software Chart.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Jan > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates > Page 2463
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DTC has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DTC P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Jan > 11 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates > Page 2464
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware
Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid 2003-05 Civic Hybrid 2006-08 Civic Hybrid
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
Original IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2469
New IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K1O1-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101 - RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2470
3. The IMA Software Chart also indicates (in the example) that the correct battery code for
matching the IMA control unit's software to an
original-design IMA battery is "YHN." If you are only updating the software and not replacing the
IMA battery, visually check the installed IMA battery-an original IMA battery type does not have an
IMA battery code label.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
Follow these guidelines when installing IMA software:
^ If only the software is being updated, first visually inspect the IMA battery to determine if it's an
original or new type. It is possible that a salvaged IMA battery may have been installed without the
IMA software being updated. After verifying the IMA battery type, install its matching software by
selecting the correct battery code from the IMA Software Chart.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2471
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DIG has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DIG P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 10-083 > Dec > 10 >
Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2472
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Battery, Hybrid Drive: > 08-062 > Aug > 08 >
Hybrid Systems - High Temp. Effect ON Hybrid Batteries
Battery, Hybrid Drive: All Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid Systems - High Temp. Effect ON
Hybrid Batteries
08-062
August 6, 2008
Applies To: 2000-06 Insight - ALL 2003-09 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2005-07 Accord Hybrid - ALL
The high-voltage batteries in the 2000-06 Insight, the 2003-09 Civic Hybrid, and the 2005-07
Accord Hybrid can be affected and damaged by excessively high temperatures. The temperature in
some body shop paint booths can exceed 150° F. Therefore, during refinishing operations, the
paint booth temperature must be set at or below 150° F.
As a reminder, every Honda Hybrid has a sticker on the driver's door stating the maximum
temperature.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery, Hybrid Drive > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2477
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio unit or the navigation system (if equipped),
then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is OFF. 3. Disconnect the
negative cable from the 12 V battery. 4. Remove the IPU lid. 5. Remove the high voltage cables
(A), then wrap them with insulating tape (B).
6. Disconnect the BCM module connector (C) and junction board connector (D). 7. Remove the
bolts (E), then remove the battery module (F). 8. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
9. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio unit or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the.
audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates
Battery Condition Monitor: Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery
Software/Hardware Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid - ALL 2003-05 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2006-08 Civic Hybrid - ALL
January 7, 2011
(Supersedes 10-083, dated December 23, 2010, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
In the IMA Software Chart, the program P/Ns and identifiers for the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid were
changed.*
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
^ An original IMA battery type does not have a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer
case.
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2483
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K101-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101-RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
^ If only the software is being updated, first visually inspect the IMA battery to determine if it's an
original or new type. It is possible that a salvaged IMA battery may have been installed without the
IMA software being updated. After verifying the IMA battery type, install its matching software by
selecting the correct battery code from the IMA Software Chart.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2485
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DTC has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DTC P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2486
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2487
Battery Condition Monitor: Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware
Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid 2003-05 Civic Hybrid 2006-08 Civic Hybrid
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
Original IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2488
New IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K1O1-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101 - RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2489
3. The IMA Software Chart also indicates (in the example) that the correct battery code for
matching the IMA control unit's software to an
original-design IMA battery is "YHN." If you are only updating the software and not replacing the
IMA battery, visually check the installed IMA battery-an original IMA battery type does not have an
IMA battery code label.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
Follow these guidelines when installing IMA software:
^ If only the software is being updated, first visually inspect the IMA battery to determine if it's an
original or new type. It is possible that a salvaged IMA battery may have been installed without the
IMA software being updated. After verifying the IMA battery type, install its matching software by
selecting the correct battery code from the IMA Software Chart.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2490
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DIG has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DIG P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery Software/Hardware Updates >
Page 2491
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2492
DTC Clear
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (11). Do not start the engine. 2. Use the HDS to clear the DTC.
NOTE: For specific operations, refer to the user's manual that came with the HDS.
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the HDS from the
DLC. 4. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
3. Remove the BCM module (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Condition Monitor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Service and Repair > BCM Module Removal/Installation > Page 2498
Battery Condition Monitor: Service and Repair Intelligent Power Unit Module (IPU)/IPU Lid
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the rear seat-back and the rear seat cushion 2. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 3.
Remove the bolts (A).
4. Remove the IPU lid (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 6. Before the battery
module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly. Then
push the button (A), and turn
DTC Clear
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (11). Do not start the engine. 2. Use the HDS to clear the DTC.
NOTE: For specific operations, refer to the user's manual that came with the HDS.
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the HDS from the
DLC. 4. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an IN workstation with HDS and CM update software.
Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good BCM module during a
troubleshooting procedure with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Battery System, Hybrid Drive > Battery Current Sensor, Hybrid Drive >
Component Information > Locations
The following procedure should be performed prior to working on or near any high voltage
components. Follow the procedure exactly. Otherwise, you may be injured or may damage
equipment.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then remove the ignition key. 2. Remove the rear seat-back.
3. Remove the battery module switch lid (A) from the battery module.
4. Turn the battery module switch (A) OFF, then check that the bolt (B) is showing. 5. Wait at least
5 minutes to allow the PDU capacitors to discharge. 6. Remove the IPU lid.
7. Measure voltage at the battery module terminals (A). There should be 30 V or less. If more than
30 V is present, there is a problem in the circuit;
Make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly.
- Before the battery module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are
connected properly.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio unit or the navigation system (if equipped),
then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the
negative cable from the 12 V battery. 4. Remove the IPU lid. 5. Disconnect the A/C compressor
power cable connector (A) from the A/C compressor driver, then wrap the cable end with insulating
tape.
11. Disconnect the motor power cable connector (A) from the motor stator (B).
NOTE: -
- If the motor power cable terminals are wet, dry connector from the motor stator. them with a clean
towel. Do not use compressed air.
12. Remove the wire (A) from the under-hood fuse/relay box, then remove the bolts (B).
13. Remove the cowl cover and the under-cowl panel. 14. Remove the cover (A), and disconnect
the motor power cable connector (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Drive Motor/Generator, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Power Cable >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2527
15. Remove the motor power cable (A) from the stays (B).
17. Remove the bolts (A), then remove the clamps (B).
NOTE: DO not reuse the clamps. Replace them with new ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Drive Motor/Generator, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Power Cable >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2528
18. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and ,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio unit Or navigation system (if equipped), then enter the
audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Drive Motor/Generator, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Rotor >
Component Information > Service and Repair
The motor rotor contains very strong magnets and should be handled with special care. People
with pacemakers or other sensitive medical devices should not handle the motor rotor.
WARNING: If the motor rotor is installed by hand, it may suddenly be pulled toward the motor
stator with great force, causing serious hand or finger injury. Always use the special tool to remove
or install a motor rotor.
- Do not blow air near the rotor, as metal particles may get on the magnet.
- Store the rotor in the designated storage box and keep it away from sensitive devices during
storage.
NOTE: When installing the sensor plate, check it insulating paint for damage.
4. Remove the motor power cable (A) from the motor stator by pushing the tab (B), raising the lever
(C), and sliding the protector (D) in the direction
shown.
NOTE: -
- Cover the disconnected connector (E) with plastic (F), and wrap the motor power cable terminal
with tape (G).
- before you wrap it. If the motor power cable is wet, wait until it is dry.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Drive Motor/Generator, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Rotor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2532
5. Slide a plastic film (A) between the motor rotor (B) and motor stator (C).
7. Install the rotor puller guide pins, then remove the remaining three bolts (A), and remove the
rotor spacer (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Drive Motor/Generator, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Rotor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2533
8. Attach the rotor puller with the supplied bolts.
NOTE: When installing the rotor puller, position the puller to fit over the dowel pins (A).
10. To prevent damage to the rotor magnet while working on the stator, place the rotor, with puller
attached, into the puller case.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Drive Motor/Generator, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Rotor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2534
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Turn the handle of the rotor puller slowly when inserting the rotor into the stator. The rotor is
drawn into the stator by magnetic force.
12. Remove the plastic film. 13. Reconnect the motor power cable to the motor stator. 14. Reinstall
the sensor plate. 15. Reinstall the support. 16. Install the transmission. 17. Do the motor rotor
position calibration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Drive Motor/Generator, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Rotor Position
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the IMA motor housing. 2. Disconnect the motor rotor position sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bolts, and the motor rotor position sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
NOTE: Tighten the bolts (C) first, then tighten the bolts 0).
NOTE:
- If the IMA system indicator stays on or never comes on, do this troubleshooting (if no DTCs are
set).
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the IMA system indicator.
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Go to step 5.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait 2 seconds, and watch the
IMA system indicator.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 5.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module, and recheck. If the IMA system indicator
circuit is OK, replace the original gauge control module.
YES - Go to step 7.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 9. Remove the IPU lid.
10. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 12. Measure
voltage between body ground and BCM module connector terminal A29.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Lamps and Indicators - Hybrid Drive System > Malfunction Indicator
Lamp - Hybrid Drive > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2547
Is there 12 V battery voltage?
NO - -
Repair open or short in the wire between the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box and the BCM module (A29).
13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Reconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 15. Turn the
ignition switch ON (II). 16. Measure voltage between body ground and BCM module connector
terminals A2 and A3.
NO - Go to step 20.
17. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 18. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 19. Check for
continuity between body ground and BCM module connector terminals A8*, A9, A22*, and A23
individually.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the BCM module if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
BCM module, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good BCM module,
replace the original BCM module
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Lamps and Indicators - Hybrid Drive System > Malfunction Indicator
Lamp - Hybrid Drive > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2548
NO - Repair open in the wire between G902 and the BCM module (A8, A9), or between G102 and
the BCM module (A22, A23).
20. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 21. Remove MCM relay 1 (A).
23. Measure voltage between body ground and MCM relay 1 4P connector terminals No. 2 and No.
4 individually.
NO - Repair open or short to ground in the wire between the No. 62 + IMA (7.5 A) and MCM relay
1. Also replace the No. 62 + IMA (7.5 A) fuse. Repair short to ground in the wire between MCM
relay 1, MCM relay 2, and the BCM module (A2, A3, A11).
24. Reinstall MCM relay 1. 25. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 26. Turn the ignition
switch ON (II). 27. Measure voltage between body ground and BCM module connector terminal
A11.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Lamps and Indicators - Hybrid Drive System > Malfunction Indicator
Lamp - Hybrid Drive > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2549
28. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 29. Check for continuity between BCM module connector terminal
A2 and A3 and MCM relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 1.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the BCM module if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
BCM module, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good BCM module,
replace the original BCM module.
NO - Repair open in the wire between MCM relay 1 and the BCM module (A2*, A3).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates
Drive Motor Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery And
Hardware Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid 2003-05 Civic Hybrid 2006-08 Civic Hybrid
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
Original IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2555
New IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K1O1-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101 - RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2556
3. The IMA Software Chart also indicates (in the example) that the correct battery code for
matching the IMA control unit's software to an
original-design IMA battery is "YHN." If you are only updating the software and not replacing the
IMA battery, visually check the installed IMA battery-an original IMA battery type does not have an
IMA battery code label.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2557
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DIG has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DIG P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2558
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2559
Drive Motor Control Module: Locations
209. MCM
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > How to End A Troubleshooting Session
Drive Motor Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to End A Troubleshooting Session
DTC Clear
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (11). Do not start the engine. 2. Use the HDS to clear the DTC.
NOTE: For specific operations, refer to the user's manual that came with the HDS.
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the HDS from the
DLC. 4. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park
Drive Motor Control Module: Testing and Inspection MCM Inputs and Outputs
Drive Motor Control Module: Service and Repair IPU Case Removal/Installation
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the IPU module fan. 3. Remove the IPU module air
duct. 4. Remove the battery module. 5. Remove the brackets (A).
6. Remove the IPU case (B). 7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2572
Drive Motor Control Module: Service and Repair Power Control Unit (PCU) Removal/Installation
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter connector (A).
3. Remove the wire (B). 4. Lift the IPU wire harness (C). 5. Remove the PCU cover (A).
6. Remove the A/C compressor power cable connector (B), and the motor power cables (C), then
wrap them with insulating tape.
NOTE: Check the position of the U phase, V phase, and W phase cables before you disconnect
them.
7. Remove the BCM module. 8. Remove the DC-DC converter. 9. Remove the A/C compressor
driver.
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 12. Do the motor rotor position calibration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2574
Drive Motor Control Module: Service and Repair Power Control Unit (PCU)
Disassembly/Reassembly
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the cover (A), MCM (B), busplate (C), and IPU air unit
(D).
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the rear seat-back and the rear seat cushion 2. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 3.
Remove the bolts (A).
4. Remove the IPU lid (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 6. Before the battery
module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly. Then
push the button (A), and turn
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the IPU module fan. 3. Remove the IPU module air
duct. 4. Remove the battery module. 5. Remove the brackets (A).
6. Remove the IPU case (B). 7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2577
3. Remove the wire (B). 4. Lift the IPU wire harness (C). 5. Remove the PCU cover (A).
6. Remove the A/C compressor power cable connector (B), and the motor power cables (C), then
wrap them with insulating tape.
NOTE: Check the position of the U phase, V phase, and W phase cables before you disconnect
them.
7. Remove the BCM module. 8. Remove the DC-DC converter. 9. Remove the A/C compressor
driver.
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 12. Do the motor rotor position calibration.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the cover (A), MCM (B), busplate (C), and IPU air unit
(D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2578
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the rear seat-back and the rear seat cushion 2. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 3.
Remove the bolts (A).
4. Remove the IPU lid (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 6. Before the battery
module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly. Then
push the button (A), and turn
DTC Clear
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (11). Do not start the engine. 2. Use the HDS to clear the DTC.
NOTE: For specific operations, refer to the user's manual that came with the HDS.
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the HDS from the
DLC. 4. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park
Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good MCM during a troubleshooting
procedure.
1. Remove the MCM. 2. Install a known-good MCM. 3. Do the MOTOR ROTOR POSITION
CALIBRATION in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
MCM Replacement
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the cover (A), the busplate (B), and the MCM (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2580
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 4. Do the motor rotor position calibration.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the IPU module fan (A).
1. Remove the spare tire lid and the trunk front trim panel. 2. Remove the IPU module air outlet
duct (A) and the IPU module air inlet duct (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2581
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Rotor Position
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the IMA motor housing. 2. Disconnect the motor rotor position sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bolts, and the motor rotor position sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
NOTE: Tighten the bolts (C) first, then tighten the bolts 0).
Hybrid Power Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery And
Hardware Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid 2003-05 Civic Hybrid 2006-08 Civic Hybrid
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
Original IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2601
New IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K1O1-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101 - RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2602
3. The IMA Software Chart also indicates (in the example) that the correct battery code for
matching the IMA control unit's software to an
original-design IMA battery is "YHN." If you are only updating the software and not replacing the
IMA battery, visually check the installed IMA battery-an original IMA battery type does not have an
IMA battery code label.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2603
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DIG has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DIG P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2604
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Voltage Converter, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Diagrams
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio unit or the navigation system (if equipped),
then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the
negative cable from the 12 V battery. 4. Remove the IPU lid. 5. Disconnect the DC-DC converter
connector (A).
6. Remove the wires (B), (C). 7. Remove the bolts (D), and the DC-DC converter (E). 8. Install the
parts in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
9. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio unit or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the
audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles without
navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Voltage Converter, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Service and Repair > DC-DC Converter Removal/Installation > Page 2610
Voltage Converter: Service and Repair Power Control Unit (PCU) Removal/Installation
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter connector (A).
3. Remove the wire (B). 4. Lift the IPU wire harness (C). 5. Remove the PCU cover (A).
6. Remove the A/C compressor power cable connector (B), and the motor power cables (C), then
wrap them with insulating tape.
NOTE: Check the position of the U phase, V phase, and W phase cables before you disconnect
them.
7. Remove the BCM module. 8. Remove the DC-DC converter. 9. Remove the A/C compressor
driver.
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 12. Do the motor rotor position calibration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Power Control System, Hybrid Drive > Voltage Converter, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Service and Repair > DC-DC Converter Removal/Installation > Page 2612
Voltage Converter: Service and Repair Power Control Unit (PCU) Disassembly/Reassembly
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the cover (A), MCM (B), busplate (C), and IPU air unit
(D).
Hybrid Power Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery And
Hardware Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid 2003-05 Civic Hybrid 2006-08 Civic Hybrid
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
Original IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2618
New IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K1O1-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101 - RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2619
3. The IMA Software Chart also indicates (in the example) that the correct battery code for
matching the IMA control unit's software to an
original-design IMA battery is "YHN." If you are only updating the software and not replacing the
IMA battery, visually check the installed IMA battery-an original IMA battery type does not have an
IMA battery code label.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2620
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DIG has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DIG P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Hybrid Power Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2621
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates
Drive Motor Control Module: Technical Service Bulletins Hybrid System - IMA Battery And
Hardware Updates
10-083
Applies To: 2005-07 Accord Hybrid 2003-05 Civic Hybrid 2006-08 Civic Hybrid
BACKGROUND
Due to improvements in battery manufacturing efficiency, once stocks of original IMA batteries are
depleted, a new battery design will be available for IMA battery replacement. Both battery types
require that its battery control software be matched to its IMA battery type. Failure to match the
software with the battery will result in reduced IMA battery life.
In addition, if the battery condition monitor (BCM) or the motor control module (MCM) is replaced or
reprogrammed, matching IMA battery software must be installed in that control module to maximize
the IMA battery's life.
Original IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
^ A new IMA battery type has a 3-character battery code label attached to its outer case.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2626
New IMA Battery Type: (Example shown for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid)
New-type IMA batteries are shipped with an instruction package that includes an extra battery code
label. This peel-off label has the same 3-character battery code found on the battery case. This
code is used to update the BCM's or MCM's software, matching the vehicle's IMA control unit to the
IMA battery being installed.
NOTE:
Clean the driver's doorjamb, and apply the extra IMA battery code label below the door striker.
1. Use the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to bring up the IMA System Data List. At the top of the
Data List screen is the program P/N; this P/N
identifies which IMA battery software is currently installed in the vehicle. For example, the HDS IMA
Data List screen-shot below shows a program P/N of 1K101-RMX-A070.
2. On the IMA Software Chart below, note that there are two possible matches for IMA software
program P/N 1K1O1-RMX-A070, which is listed as
1K101 - RMX-*x** in the program P/N column. The "x" in the last 4-digits of the program P/N is the
"identifier which tells what IMA software is currently installed. So for this vehicle, the second
character within A070 is a "0 (zero)." Referring to the Identifier column in the chart, a "0" means
that this is the IMA software program P/N for a 2006-08 Civic Hybrid with an original IMA battery
type.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2627
3. The IMA Software Chart also indicates (in the example) that the correct battery code for
matching the IMA control unit's software to an
original-design IMA battery is "YHN." If you are only updating the software and not replacing the
IMA battery, visually check the installed IMA battery-an original IMA battery type does not have an
IMA battery code label.
^ If the installed battery does not have an IMA battery code label attached to it, it is an original IMA
battery type, and the currently installed software is matched to the IMA battery and its BCM.
^ If this Civic Hybrid's replacement IMA battery is also an original IMA battery type (without a
battery code label), the software currently installed in that vehicle is also matched to the new,
replacement original IMA battery type.
^ If the replacement IMA battery has a battery code label that indicates it is a "PC2 "it is a new IMA
battery type. The existing vehicle's IMA software (battery code YHN) is not compatible with that
IMA battery. After that replacement battery type is installed, the vehicle's IMA BCM software must
be updated to match the replacement battery type.
[NOTICE]
Once new IMA battery software is installed, it is currently not possible to re-install the old battery
software.
If new IMA battery software was installed by mistake, a replacement IMA ECU must be ordered
and installed. This part will be a BCM on 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, and an MCM on 2003-05 Civic
Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids.
^ If known-good parts are being substituted, or if the replacement IMA battery is from another
vehicle, make sure to match the update software to those parts and/or the IMA battery being
installed.
^ If an original (no label) IMA battery type is installed in a vehicle that has been updated to new
IMA battery type software, the MCM/BCM must be replaced and the correct software installed on
the new MCM/BCM. Also, make sure to remove the battery code label from the doorjamb.
^ To install IMA software on a hybrid vehicle, enter the correct battery code on the Honda
Diagnostic System (HDS), or an MVCI, or a PC, using all CAPITAL letters. Press ENTER to begin
the update.
NOTE:
^ When updating software using the HDS, enter the battery code in the "Enter the IMA Battery
Type" window.
^ After entering the battery code, the HDS may indicate that the latest software has already been
installed and no update is necessary.
^ On a 2003-05 Civic Hybrid, check that the latest IMA motor software has also been installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2628
If either the battery condition monitor (BCM) (2006-08 Civic Hybrid) or the motor control module
(MCM) (2003-05 Civic Hybrid, 2005-07 Accord Hybrid) are replaced or reprogrammed, their
respective battery codes must be used to ensure that the latest IMA battery matching software is
installed on them to produce maximum IMA battery life.
NOTE:
The IMA battery software is stored in either the BCM or the MCM, depending on the model and
year.
^ In 2006-08 Civic Hybrids, the BCM is a separate control unit and its part number starts with
"1K100."
^ In 2003-05 Civic Hybrids and 2005-07 Accord Hybrids, the BCM is part of the MCM and its part
number starts with "1K000."
After updating the IMA software, use the HDS to see if an IMA Battery/Software Mismatch DIG has
been set. The 2003-05 Civic Hybrid and the 2005-07 Accord Hybrid may set IMA DIG P1569 if a
new IMA battery type is installed and the old software is not updated.
If DTC P1569 is stored, check the IMA battery software that was installed and the IMA battery type
for a possible mismatch before further troubleshooting.
NOTE:
^ The 2006-08 Civic Hybrid does not set IMA DTC P1569 if there is a battery/software mismatch.
^ If DTCs U0301 or U0312 is stored, update the software according to the instructions in Service
Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301, U0302, and U0312.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Hybrid System - IMA Battery And Hardware Updates > Page 2629
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2630
Drive Motor Control Module: Locations
209. MCM
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > How to End A Troubleshooting Session
Drive Motor Control Module: Testing and Inspection How to End A Troubleshooting Session
DTC Clear
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (11). Do not start the engine. 2. Use the HDS to clear the DTC.
NOTE: For specific operations, refer to the user's manual that came with the HDS.
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the HDS from the
DLC. 4. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park
Drive Motor Control Module: Testing and Inspection MCM Inputs and Outputs
Drive Motor Control Module: Service and Repair IPU Case Removal/Installation
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the IPU module fan. 3. Remove the IPU module air
duct. 4. Remove the battery module. 5. Remove the brackets (A).
6. Remove the IPU case (B). 7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2643
Drive Motor Control Module: Service and Repair Power Control Unit (PCU) Removal/Installation
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter connector (A).
3. Remove the wire (B). 4. Lift the IPU wire harness (C). 5. Remove the PCU cover (A).
6. Remove the A/C compressor power cable connector (B), and the motor power cables (C), then
wrap them with insulating tape.
NOTE: Check the position of the U phase, V phase, and W phase cables before you disconnect
them.
7. Remove the BCM module. 8. Remove the DC-DC converter. 9. Remove the A/C compressor
driver.
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 12. Do the motor rotor position calibration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2645
Drive Motor Control Module: Service and Repair Power Control Unit (PCU)
Disassembly/Reassembly
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the cover (A), MCM (B), busplate (C), and IPU air unit
(D).
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the rear seat-back and the rear seat cushion 2. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 3.
Remove the bolts (A).
4. Remove the IPU lid (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 6. Before the battery
module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly. Then
push the button (A), and turn
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the IPU module fan. 3. Remove the IPU module air
duct. 4. Remove the battery module. 5. Remove the brackets (A).
6. Remove the IPU case (B). 7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter connector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2648
3. Remove the wire (B). 4. Lift the IPU wire harness (C). 5. Remove the PCU cover (A).
6. Remove the A/C compressor power cable connector (B), and the motor power cables (C), then
wrap them with insulating tape.
NOTE: Check the position of the U phase, V phase, and W phase cables before you disconnect
them.
7. Remove the BCM module. 8. Remove the DC-DC converter. 9. Remove the A/C compressor
driver.
11. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 12. Do the motor rotor position calibration.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the cover (A), MCM (B), busplate (C), and IPU air unit
(D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2649
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the rear seat-back and the rear seat cushion 2. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 3.
Remove the bolts (A).
4. Remove the IPU lid (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 6. Before the battery
module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly. Then
push the button (A), and turn
DTC Clear
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (11). Do not start the engine. 2. Use the HDS to clear the DTC.
NOTE: For specific operations, refer to the user's manual that came with the HDS.
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Disconnect the HDS from the
DLC. 4. If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park
Use this procedure when you have to substitute a known-good MCM during a troubleshooting
procedure.
1. Remove the MCM. 2. Install a known-good MCM. 3. Do the MOTOR ROTOR POSITION
CALIBRATION in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
MCM Replacement
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the cover (A), the busplate (B), and the MCM (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Relays and Modules - Hybrid Drive > Drive Motor Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2651
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 4. Do the motor rotor position calibration.
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precautions before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the PCU assembly. 2. Remove the IPU module fan (A).
1. Remove the spare tire lid and the trunk front trim panel. 2. Remove the IPU module air outlet
duct (A) and the IPU module air inlet duct (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Service and Repair > IPU Case Removal/Installation > Page 2652
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Hybrid Drive Systems > Sensors and Switches - Hybrid Drive > Battery Current Sensor, Hybrid
Drive > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the IMA motor housing. 2. Disconnect the motor rotor position sensor connector (A).
3. Remove the bolts, and the motor rotor position sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
NOTE: Tighten the bolts (C) first, then tighten the bolts 0).
The following procedure should be performed prior to working on or near any high voltage
components. Follow the procedure exactly. Otherwise, you may be injured or may damage
equipment.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, then remove the ignition key. 2. Remove the rear seat-back.
3. Remove the battery module switch lid (A) from the battery module.
4. Turn the battery module switch (A) OFF, then check that the bolt (B) is showing. 5. Wait at least
5 minutes to allow the PDU capacitors to discharge. 6. Remove the IPU lid.
7. Measure voltage at the battery module terminals (A). There should be 30 V or less. If more than
30 V is present, there is a problem in the circuit;
Make sure all the high voltage circuits are connected properly.
- Before the battery module switch is turned ON, make sure all the high voltage circuits are
connected properly.
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 2702
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 2704
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery
Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery
Deterioration Software Updates > Page 2710
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery
Deterioration Software Updates > Page 2712
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And
Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And
Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 2748
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2754
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2756
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2757
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2758
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2759
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2760
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2761
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information and Instructions > Page 2767
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2769
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2770
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2771
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 2772
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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237. PCM
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237. PCM
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Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
Engine Control Module: Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the PCM
NOTE: The PCM overwrites data and monitors the EVAP system for up to 30 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels
this function. Disconnecting the PCM during this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can
damage the PCM.
1. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 2. Remove the cover (A).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
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Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 2793
7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
PCM Update
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update a PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to
the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS. Select the update mode, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow the instructions on screen. If
you run into a problem during the update procedure (programming takes over 15 minutes, status
bar goes over 100 %, D or immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.), follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM: -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
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8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 11. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration
procedure.
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Procedures
Engine Control Module: Procedures
Substituting the PCM
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
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NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code
using the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset
the PCM with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 6, clean the throttle body. 20.
Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicle
without navigation).
ECM Reset
HDS Clear Command
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear/PCM reset,
and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board
snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after , reproducing the DTC
during troubleshooting. The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, readiness codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP
pattern. If the CKP pattern data in the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. The CKP pattern clear command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for
repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure; CKP pattern learn
procedure; Test-drive to set readiness codes to complete.
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
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3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 6. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedure.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. The CKP pattern learn procedure is complete.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
NOTE: Clearing the DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.
Procedure
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at
3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine
coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
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PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the PCM after substituting a known-good PCM, reinstall the original PCM,
then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers
5. Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7.
Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then READ DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original PCM so you can later
download (WRITES) it into the new PCM.
12. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 16.
Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
17. If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22. Otherwise, go to step 18. 18.
Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 19. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then WRITE
DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
20. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 21. Enter the immobilizer code with the PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 22. If the TP POSITION
CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 23. 23. If the READ DATA failed in
step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 19, replace the engine oil and engine oil filter, then go to
step 24. 24. Select PGM-FI system and reset the PCM with the HDS. 25. Update the PCM if it does
not have the latest software. 26. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 27. Do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. 28. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedure. 29. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
30. Check that the IMA battery level indicator (BAT). If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the
gauge indicates zero level, start the engine, and
hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level
indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
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Information and Instructions
Feedback Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 2818
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Information and Instructions > Page 2821
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
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Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
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Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Install the No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the ignition coil relay
from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil 3P
connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
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6. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
7. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 8. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
10. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
11. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P). 12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P
socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and
the PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and PCM connector
terminal A6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit >
Page 2873
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the PCM
(A6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit >
Page 2874
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 2884
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description
and Operation > Page 2885
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2894
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure (BARO) Sensor
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 2906
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 2907
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 2914
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CKP Pulse Plate Replacement > Page 2923
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
ELD Replacement
1. Remove the PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2932
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
2942
3. Disconnect the air hose (B), and then remove the FTP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D) and retainer (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page
2949
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations
8. Knock Sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2955
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 2956
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations >
Page 2963
2. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component
Locations
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
WU-TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Air
Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor > Page 2972
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the warm up
three way catalytic converter (WU-TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration
of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM
compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The
secondary HO2S is located on the WU-TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A),
then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure switch (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Emission Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 3004
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Page 3005
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3014
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor
Replacement > Page 3029
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor
Replacement > Page 3030
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate
Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate
Replacement > Page 3039
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Page 3052
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
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Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 3054
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 3055
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
8. Knock Sensor
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Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
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1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
Fuel Pressure.......................................................................................................................................
..........270 - 320 kpa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi)
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Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
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'07 model
2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure
gauge. 3. Reinstall the air cleaner (B). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle.
5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed.
The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when
- If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting.
The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). -
- If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then
recheck the fuel pressure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle position to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The EPS signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
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- The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Headlight OFF
1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the
HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 5. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
6. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with high electric load (A/C switch on, temperature set to max
cool, blower fan on High, and headlights on high
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing >
Air Filter Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3100
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disabling the fuel
pump and then disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the HDS
to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump
OFF, then start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: -
Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump.
- A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them
as needed.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 12. Remove
the air cleaner. 13. Remove the cover (A) and the quick-connect fitting cover (B).
14. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 15. Place a rag or shop towel
over the quick-connect fitting (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3105
16. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
17. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 18. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the
auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3106
3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Remove the fuel fill cap. 6. Disconnect the negative cable from
the battery. 7. Remove the air cleaner. 8. Remove the cover (A) and quick-connect fitting cover (B).
9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3107
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
14. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order >
Component Information > Specifications
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Information > Specifications
Ignition Timing: Specifications
Ignition Timing
....................................................................................................................................... 10 ° ± 2 °
BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3114
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3115
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
8. Connect the timing light to the exhaust side No. 1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the
PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM.
Torque: ................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 3119
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. ILFR6J11K DENSO ..............................................................
...........................................................................................................................................
SK20HPR-L11
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 3120
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and the ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sandblaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of
specification.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
listed sparkplugs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 3121
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 18 N.m
Engine Assembly
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check >
System Information > Specifications > Standards and Service Limits > Page 3126
Compression Check: Specifications General Specifications
Engine Compression
Compression Pressure
.......................................................................................................................................... Above 980
kPa (10.0 kgf/cm2, 142 psi)
Maximum Variation
................................................................................................................................................. Within
200 kPa (2.0 kgf/cm2, 28 psi)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3127
NOTE: After the inspection, you must reset the powertrain control module (PCM). Otherwise, the
PCM will continue to stop the fuel injectors from operating.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (cooling fan comes on). 2. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0). 3. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector
(DLC). 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle
and the PCM. If it doesn't communicate, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 6. Select PGM-FI,
INSPECTION, then All INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8.
Remove the four intake side ignition coils. 9. Remove the four intake side spark plugs.
NOTE: Use a compression gauge with a connecting length (between the edge and the flange) of
less than 23 mm (0.9 in.).
11. Turn the IMA battery module switch OFF. 12. Open the throttle fully, then crank the engine with
the starter motor and measure the compression.
14. If the compression is not within specifications, check the following items, then remeasure the
compression.
15. Remove the compression gauge from the spark plug hole. 16. Install the four intake side spark
plugs. 17. Install the four intake side ignition coils. 18. Select PCM reset to cancel the ALL
INJECTORS OFF on the HDS. 19. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 20. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedures. 21. Turn the IMA battery module switch ON. 22. Clear any
IMA DTCs that may have been set while doing this inspection procedure. 23. If the IMA battery
level gauge (BAT) displays no segment, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000
rpm without load (in N or P)
Valve Clearance
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3131
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
NOTE: Adjust the valves only when the cylinder head temperature is less than 100°F (38°C).
1. Remove the cylinder head cover. 2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). The "UP"
mark (A) on the camshaft sprocket should be at the top, and the TDC grooves (B) on the
camshaft sprocket should line up with the top edge of the chain case.
3. Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check.
4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw (B) and the end of the valve stem on No.
1 cylinder and slide it back and forth; you should
5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut (A), and turn the adjusting screw (B)
until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3132
6. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
Specified Torque 20 Nm (2.0 kgf-m, 14 lbf-ft) Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.
7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 3 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft
sprocket with the top edge of the chain case.
8. Check the valve clearance on the No. 3 cylinder; adjust it if necessary 9. Rotate the crankshaft
clockwise. Align the No. 4 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the
chain.
10. Check the valve clearance on the No. 4 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 11. Rotate the
crankshaft clockwise. Align the No. 2 piston TDC groove (A) on the camshaft sprocket with the top
edge of the head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3133
12. Check the valve clearance on the No. 2 cylinder; adjust it if necessary. 13. Install the cylinder
head cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Start the engine, and let it idle. 2. Turn the blower switch on. 3. Turn the A/C switch on. 4. Check
the A/C CLUTCH in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 8. Activate the A/C CLUTCH in
the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 9.
10. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 11. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P). 12. Turn the ignition
switch ON (II). 13. Momentarily connect PCM connector terminal A14 to body ground with a jumper
wire several times.
NO - Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the, A/C clutch relay and the PCM. If the
connections are OK, check the A/C clutch relay, repair open in the wire between the PCM (A14)
and the A/C clutch relay and the other A/C systems.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 3145
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position
Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3146
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and Inspection/Component
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3155
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor
> Component Information > Locations
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor
> Component Information > Locations > Page 3162
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 3174
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 3175
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 3182
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate Replacement > Page 3191
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations
204. DLC
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3197
Data Link Connector: Testing and Inspection
NOTE: Before you begin, make sure the HDS and the DLC cable are working properly.
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 25.
4. Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs in the PGM-FI system with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the SRS indicator.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the ABS indicator.
NO - Go to step 9.
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the AHB
(advanced hydraulic booster) indicator.
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the immobilizer
indicator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3198
NO - -
15. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 16. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the TPMS
indicator.
NO - Go to step 17.
17. Do the gauge self-diagnostic function. 18. Check for B-CAN system DTCs without the HDS.
NO - Go to step 19.
19. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 20. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 21. Check for continuity
between DLC terminal No. 7 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 23.
22. Continue to check for continuity between DLC terminal No. 7 and body ground, while
disconnecting these parts, one at a time:
- SRS unit connector A (28P)
YES - Replace the part that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the DLC (K-line) and the ABS modulator-control unit, the
EPS control unit, the servo unit, the SRS unit, the immobilizer-keyless control unit, the TPMS
control unit (with TPMS), the audio unit, or the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3199
23. Connect DLC terminal No. 7 to body ground with a jumper wire.
24. Check for continuity between body ground and these connector terminals:
Is there continuity between the DLC terminal and each of the terminals in the chart?
YES - Replace the part that does not communicate with the HDS. NO - Repair open in the wire
between the DLC (K-line) and the appropriate connector.
25. Do the gauge self-diagnostic function. 26. Check for B-CAN system DTCs without the HDS.
NO - Go to step 27.
27. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 28. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 29. Measure voltage
between DLC terminal No. 16 and body ground.
30. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No. 4 and No. 16.
NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No. 4 and G502.
31. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 32. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 33. Disconnect PCM
connector A (44P). 34. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 35. Connect DLC terminal No. 6 to body
ground with a jumper wire.
36. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A36 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (A36) and DLC terminal No. 6.
37. Connect DLC terminal No. 14 to body ground with a jumper wire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3201
38. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A37 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM,
then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original
PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (A37) and DLC terminal No. 14
NO - Go to step 40.
40. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 41. Check the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A) fuse in the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
YES - Repair open in the wire between the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A) fuse and the ignition switch. If the
wire is OK, go to step 42.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A) fuse and the under-hood
fuse/relay box. Also replace the No. 2 IG MAIN (50 A) fuse.
42. Inspect the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.
NO - Go to step 43.
43. Remove the blown No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 44.
Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (C) from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3202
45. Check for continuity between body ground and PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminals
No. 1 and No. 3 individually.
Is there continuity?
YES - Replace the under-hood fuse/relay box. Also replace the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
NO - Go to step 46.
46. Disconnect each of the parts or connectors below, one at a time, and check for continuity
between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No.
YES - Replace the part that made the short to body ground go away when it was disconnected. If
the part is the PCM, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a
known-good PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM,
replace the original PCM. Also replace the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
NO - Go to step 47.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3203
47. Disconnect the connectors from these part;
- Injectors
48. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 2 and body
ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between PGM-FI main relay 1 and each part. Also replace the No.
19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
NO - Replace PGM-FI main relay 1. Also replace the No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse.
49. Inspect the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
NO - Go to step 50.
50. Remove the blown No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box. 51.
Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 52. Disconnect PCM connector C (44P). 53. Check for continuity
between PCM connector terminal C36 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Replace the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse, and update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with
a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
54. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3204
55. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C36 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse and the PCM (C36),
between the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse and PGM-FI main relay 2, or between the No. 2 FUEL
PUMP (15 A) fuse and the immobilizer control unit. Also replace the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A)
fuse.
NO - Go to step 56.
56. Disconnect the fuel unit subharness 4P connector. 57. Check for continuity between floor
harness C651 4P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - -
Repair short in the wire between the fuel unit subharness and PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace
the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse.
NO - Go to step 58.
Is there continuity?
YES - Replace PGM-FI main relay 2. Also replace the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse.
NO - -
Check the fuel pump, and replace it if needed. Also replace the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse.
- Check the fuel unit subharness, and repair it if needed. Also replace the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15
A) fuse.
60. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 61. Disconnect PCM connectors A (44P) and C (44P). 62.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 63. Measure voltage between PCM connector terminal C36 and
body ground.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 2 FUEL PUMP (15 A) fuse and the PCM (C36)
64. Measure voltage between PCM connector terminal A6 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3206
Is there battery voltage?
NO - Go to step 65.
65. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 66. Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (C) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
67. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.
68. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 4 and PCM
connector terminal A6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3207
Is there continuity?
YES - Test PGM-FI main relay 1. If the relay is OK, update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with
a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (A6) and PGM-FI main relay 1
69. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 70. Remove PGM-FI main relay 1 (C) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
71. Measure voltage between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
72. Check for continuity between PGM-FI main relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 2 and PCM
connector terminal A8 and A43 individually.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3208
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (A8, A43) and PGM-FI main relay 1.
74. Disconnect PCM connector B (44P). 75. Check for continuity between body ground and PCM
connector terminals B1, B36, C2, C40, and C44 individually.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the PCM (B1, B36, C2, C40, C44) and G102.
76. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C13 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3209
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 78.
77. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C13 and body ground, while
disconnecting these connectors, one at a time:
YES - Replace the part that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (C13) and the MAP sensor, the output shaft (driven
pulley) speed sensor or CVT speed sensor ('06 model).
78. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B18 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 80.
79. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B18 and body ground, while
disconnecting these parts, one at a time:
YES - Replace the part that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (B18) and the rocker arm oil pressure sensor, the
EGR valve, the input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor, CVT speed sensor (secondary) ('06 model),
or CVT speed sensor ('07-08 models).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3210
80. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C12 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 82.
81. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal C12 and body ground, while
disconnecting the throttle body 6P connector.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (C12) and the throttle body
82. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A25 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 84.
83. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A25 and body ground, while
disconnecting the APP sensor 6P connector.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A25) and APP sensor A.
84. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A24 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3211
Is there continuity?
NO - Go to step 86.
85. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A24 and body ground, while
disconnecting the APP sensor 6P connector.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A24) and APP sensor B.
86. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A19 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
87. Continue to check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A19 and body ground, while
disconnecting these parts, one at a time:
YES - Replace the part that caused an open when it was disconnected.
NO - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A19) and the A/C pressure sensor or the FTP
sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
ELD Replacement
1. Remove the PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3220
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Electronic Throttle Actuator
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery
Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery
Deterioration Software Updates > Page 3240
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery
Deterioration Software Updates > Page 3242
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034
> Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034
> Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 3248
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034
> Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 3250
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020
> Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 >
Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3286
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3291
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3292
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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237. PCM
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237. PCM
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
Engine Control Module: Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
NOTE: The PCM overwrites data and monitors the EVAP system for up to 30 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels
this function. Disconnecting the PCM during this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can
damage the PCM.
1. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 2. Remove the cover (A).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
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7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
PCM Update
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update a PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to
the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS. Select the update mode, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow the instructions on screen. If
you run into a problem during the update procedure (programming takes over 15 minutes, status
bar goes over 100 %, D or immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.), follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM: -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
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8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 11. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration
procedure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures
Engine Control Module: Procedures
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
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NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code
using the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset
the PCM with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 6, clean the throttle body. 20.
Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicle
without navigation).
ECM Reset
HDS Clear Command
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear/PCM reset,
and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board
snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after , reproducing the DTC
during troubleshooting. The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, readiness codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP
pattern. If the CKP pattern data in the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. The CKP pattern clear command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for
repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure; CKP pattern learn
procedure; Test-drive to set readiness codes to complete.
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
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3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 6. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedure.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. The CKP pattern learn procedure is complete.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
NOTE: Clearing the DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.
Procedure
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at
3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine
coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
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PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the PCM after substituting a known-good PCM, reinstall the original PCM,
then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
5. Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7.
Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then READ DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original PCM so you can later
download (WRITES) it into the new PCM.
12. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 16.
Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
17. If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22. Otherwise, go to step 18. 18.
Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 19. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then WRITE
DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
20. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 21. Enter the immobilizer code with the PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 22. If the TP POSITION
CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 23. 23. If the READ DATA failed in
step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 19, replace the engine oil and engine oil filter, then go to
step 24. 24. Select PGM-FI system and reset the PCM with the HDS. 25. Update the PCM if it does
not have the latest software. 26. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 27. Do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. 28. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedure. 29. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
30. Check that the IMA battery level indicator (BAT). If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the
gauge indicates zero level, start the engine, and
hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level
indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Feedback Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Level Sensor >
Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the PCM.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3389
3. Disconnect the air hose (B), and then remove the FTP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D) and retainer (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3398
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3402
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3403
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3404
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3407
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3408
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3412
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3414
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3415
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3416
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3417
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3418
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3419
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3421
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3422
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3423
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3424
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Wiring Diagrams
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Diagram 50-0
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Diagram 50-1
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Diagram 50-2
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Diagram 50-3
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Diagram 50-4
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Description and Operation > System Description
System Description
The MICU (built into the under-dash fuse/relay box) is one of the B-CAN components. The MICU
controls many systems related to the body controller area and a security system, and also works as
a gateway to diagnose the other B-CAN connected ECUs with the HDS.
- Horn
- Interlock system
- Key-in reminder
- Keyless entry
- Lights-on reminder
- Security alarm
- Wiper/washer
Communication Line
The body controller area network (B-CAN) and the fast controller area network (F-CAN) share
information between multiple electronic control units (ECUs). B-CAN communication moves at a
slower speed (33.33 kbps) for convenience related items and for other functions. F-CAN
information moves at a faster speed (500 kbps) for "real time" functions such as fuel and emissions
data. To allow both systems to share information, the gauge control module translates information
from B-CAN to F-CAN and from F-CAN to B-CAN.
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Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3435
- The single wire method is used between the units not requiring the communication to move at a
faster speed for "real time" functions such as fuel and emissions data.
- Using a single wire method reduces the number of the wires used on the body controller area
network.
Gateway Function
The gauge control module (tach) acts as a gateway to allow both systems to share information, the
gauge control module translates information from B-CAN to F-CAN and from F-CAN to B-CAN.
The ECUs on the CAN circuit send messages to each other. If there are any malfunctions on the
network, the odo/trip display on the gauge control module can indicate the error messages by
entering the gauge self-diagnostic function. There are three types of messages as follows:
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Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3436
Self-diagnostic Function
By connecting the HDS to the data link connector (DLC), the HDS can retrieve and indicate the
diagnostic results from the MICU via a diagnostic line called K-LINE. The K-LINE is distinguished
from the CAN line, and connected to the CAN related ECUs. The MICU is a gateway between the
HDS and B-CAN related ECUs, and sends B-CAN diagnostic results to the HDS.
The multiplex integrated control system has "wake-up" and "sleep" functions to decrease parasitic
draw on the battery when the ignition switch is OFF.
- In the sleep mode, the MICU stops functioning (communication and CPU control) when it is not
necessary for the system to operate.
- As soon as any operation is requested (for example, a door is unlocked), the related control unit
in the sleep mode immediately wakes up and begins to function.
- When the ignition switch is turned OFF, and the driver's door is opened, then closed, there is a
delay of about 40 seconds before the control unit
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- The sleep mode will not function if any door is opened or if a key is in the ignition switch.
- The draw is reduced from 200 mA to less than 35 mA when in the sleep mode.
NOTE: For Sleep and Wake-up Mode Test, go to Information Bus/Testing and
Inspection/Component Tests and General Diagnostics.
Fail-safe Function
To prevent improper operation, the MICU has a fail-safe function. In the fail-safe mode, the output
signal is fixed when any part of the system malfunctions (for example, a faulty control unit or
communication line).
Each control unit has a hardware fail-safe function that fixes the output signal when there is a CPU
malfunction, and a software fail-safe function that ignores the signal from a malfunctioning control
unit, which allows the system to operate normally.
Fail-safe function
When a CPU problem or a abnormal power supply voltage is detected, the MICU moves to the
hardware fail-safe mode, and each system output load is set to a pre-programmed fail-safe value.
When any of the data from the B-CAN circuit cannot be received within a specified time, or an
unusual combination of the data is recognized, the MICU moves to the software fail-safe mode.
The data that cannot be received is forced to a pre-programmed value.
Power Supply Voltage Monitoring Function
The MICU monitors the power supply voltage (back-up voltage). If the voltage goes below 10 V, the
MICU sends a MICU message and will not store DTCs.
The MICU controls the ceiling light ON/OFF and dimming based upon the input signals from each
switch.
Lighting System (Headlights, Parking Lights, Side Marker Lights, License Plate Lights, and
Taillights)
The MICU contains the relay circuits for the headlight high/low beams and taillights, and controls
the lighting system ON/OFF based upon the input signals from the combination light switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Daytime Running Lights
The MICU controls the exterior lights as daytime running lights based upon the input signals from
each switch.
The MICU controls the turn signal/hazard warning lights based upon the input signals from the turn
signal and hazard warning switches.
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the B-CAN and input signals.
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the input signals of each switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3439
Door Lock Response Operation
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the B-CAN signals.
The MICU controls the power windows key-off operation based upon the input signals.
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the input signals of each switch and the
B-CAN signals.
Keyless PANIC
The MICU controls the keyless PANIC based upon the B-CAN signals.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3440
Security Alarm System
The MICU controls the lighting system and horn based upon the input signals of each switch and
the B-CAN signals.
Key-in Reminder
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the IG1, the driver's door switch, and the
driver's door lock knob switch signals.
Key Interlock
The MICU controls the key interlock solenoid based upon the IG1, the transmission range switch,
and the park-pin switch signals.
The MICU controls the lighting system and horn based upon the B-CAN signals.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3441
Wiper/Washer
The MICU controls the wiper motor and the washer motor based upon the IG1 and the
wiper/washer switch signals.
The MICU controls the door lock actuators based upon the IG1 and the B-CAN signals.
Certain inputs happen so quickly that the HDS cannot update fast enough. Hold the switch that is
being tested while monitoring the Data List. This should give the HDS time to update the signal on
the Data List.
Because the HDS software is updated to support the release for newer vehicles it is not uncommon
to see system function tests that are not supported.
Part 1
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Part 2
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Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3443
Part 3
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Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3444
Part 4
Part 5
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Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3445
Part 6
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Description and Operation > System Description > Page 3446
Information Bus: Description and Operation Circuit Description
The multiplex integrated control system sends digital signals between control units through shared
wires to reduce the number of wires in order to make harnesses lighter.
The input signals from each switch are converted to digital signals within the receiving control unit.
The digital signals are sent from one control unit to another as serial data over dedicated
communication lines. When the appropriate control unit receives the digital signal, it converts the
signal back to an operational command, such as operating a relay. The multiplex integrated control
system schematic shows its power, grounds, and communication lines. The ceiling light is shown
because it is used to blink DTCs when the system is in the self-diagnostic mode.
There are two different networks within the multiplex integrated control system:
The body controller area network (B-CAN) and fast controller area network (F-CAN) share
information among multiple electronic control units and work together to form the multiplex
integrated control system. The gauge control module translates information from B-CAN to F-CAN
and from F-CAN to B-CAN to allow the networks to share information.
B-CAN Network
B-CAN information is transmitted across the communication lines at a slower speed for
convenience related operations that do not require a high process speed.
- Exterior Lights
- Horn
- Interior Lights
- Interlock System
- Power Windows
- Reminder Systems
- Safety Indicator
- Wiper/washer
F-CAN Network
F-CAN information is transmitted across the communication lines at a faster speed for "real time"
functions such as fuel, emissions, and traction control data. The following control units operate on
the F-CAN network:
- BCM Module
- MCM
- PCM
- Servo Unit
- SRS Unit
Since messages on the F-CAN network are typically of higher importance, a second wire is used
for communication circuit integrity monitoring.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
1. Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A See: Component Tests and General
Diagnostics/Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test
2. If no DTCs are retrieved, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C or D. See: Component
Tests and General Diagnostics/Troubleshooting -
1. Check for communication circuit problems using B-CAN System Diagnostic Test. 2. Check for
DTCs. 3. Sort, and then troubleshoot the DTCs in the order below.
1. Battery voltage DTCs 2. Internal error DTCs 3. Loss of communication DTCs (beginning with the
lowest number first; for example, if B1008 and B1011 are retrieved, troubleshoot B1008
first)
4. Signal error DTCs
4. If no DTCs are retrieved, use B-CAN System Diagnostic Test Mode 2 to check all inputs related
to failure.
While in Test Mode 1, the DTCs which have been detected and stored individually by various
B-CAN (Body-controller Area Network) units, will be shown one by one on the odometer/trip meter
display when the communication between the MICU and the gauge control module (tach) is
normal. To scroll through the DTCs, press the select/reset button.
The unit that has stored the code can be identified by the number shown on the multi-information
display.
While in Test Mode 1, press and hold down the SELECT/RESET button for more than 10 seconds.
NOTE: Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors
first.
When an ECU is unable to communicate with the other ECUs on the CAN circuit, the other control
unit will set loss of communication DTCs. Use this chart to find the control unit that is not
communicating.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3449
1. Find the transmitting control unit that is in the same row as all of the loss of communication
DTCs retrieved. 2. Do the input test for the transmitting control unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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1. Go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A See: Component Tests and General
Diagnostics/Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test
2. If no DTCs are retrieved, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C or D. See: Component
Tests and General Diagnostics/Troubleshooting -
1. Check for communication circuit problems using B-CAN System Diagnostic Test. 2. Check for
DTCs. 3. Sort, and then troubleshoot the DTCs in the order below.
1. Battery voltage DTCs 2. Internal error DTCs 3. Loss of communication DTCs (beginning with the
lowest number first; for example, if B1008 and B1011 are retrieved, troubleshoot B1008
first)
4. Signal error DTCs
4. If no DTCs are retrieved, use B-CAN System Diagnostic Test Mode 2 to check all inputs related
to failure.
While in Test Mode 1, the DTCs which have been detected and stored individually by various
B-CAN (Body-controller Area Network) units, will be shown one by one on the odometer/trip meter
display when the communication between the MICU and the gauge control module (tach) is
normal. To scroll through the DTCs, press the select/reset button.
The unit that has stored the code can be identified by the number shown on the multi-information
display.
While in Test Mode 1, press and hold down the SELECT/RESET button for more than 10 seconds.
NOTE: Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors
first.
When an ECU is unable to communicate with the other ECUs on the CAN circuit, the other control
unit will set loss of communication DTCs. Use this chart to find the control unit that is not
communicating.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3451
1. Find the transmitting control unit that is in the same row as all of the loss of communication
DTCs retrieved. 2. Do the input test for the transmitting control unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Information Bus > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3452
Information Bus: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
1. Before testing the multiplex integrated control system, troubleshoot the system using B-CAN
System Diagnosis Test Mode A. 2. Check the No.10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
If any fuse is blown, replace it and go to step 3. 3. Disconnect under-dash fuse/relay box
connectors E, F, G, K, and T.
NOTE: All connector views are shown from wire side of female terminals.
4. Inspect the connector and socket terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
5. With the connector still disconnected, make these input tests at the appropriate connector.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
6. Reconnect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, and make these input tests at the
connectors.
- If any test indicates a problem, find and correct the cause, then recheck the system.
- If all the input tests prove OK, the MICU must be faulty; replace the under-dash fuse/relay box.
YES - Go to step 2.
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Go to step 9.
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Disconnect navigation unit connector F (5P). 5.
Disconnect climate control unit connector A (32P). 6. Check for continuity between the following
terminals of climate control unit connector A (32P) and navigation unit connector F (5P).
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Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair open in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the navigation unit.
7. Check for continuity between body ground and climate control unit connector A (32P) No. 28, 29,
and No. 30 terminals individually.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire(s) between the climate control unit and the
navigation unit.
NO - Go to step 8.
8. Reconnect climate control unit connector A (32P). 9. Disconnect navigation unit connector F
(5P).
10. Connect climate control unit connector A (32P) No. 28, 29, and No. 30 terminals with a jumper
wire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3455
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 12. Press the RECIRCULATION and OFF buttons.
NO - Substitute a known-good climate control unit, and recheck. If the symptom goes away,
replace the original climate control unit.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and remove the key. If the MICU receives no signals from the
inputs listed below, it will go into sleep mode in less than 40 seconds.
2. Confirm the sleep mode:
Measure the frequency on the B-CAN communication line (PNK wires); there should be 0 Hz when
the system is in the sleep mode. Check the parasitic draw at the battery while shifting into the sleep
mode; amperage should change from about 200 mA to less than 35 mA.
When the ignition switch is turned ON (II), the MICU, gauge control module, immobilizer-keyless
control unit, and PCM wake up at the same time without "talking" to each other through the
communication lines. When any switch in the multiplex integrated control system is turned on, it
wakes up its related control unit which, in turn, wakes up the other units. After confirming the sleep
mode, look in the following table for the switch most related to the problem. Operate that switch
and see if its control unit wakes up.
NOTE: If any control unit is faulty and will not wake up, several circuits in the system will
malfunction at the same time. In the table below, the control unit is followed by a list of the switches
and input signals that can wake it up.
Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors first, then
perform this diagnosis first if the symptom is related to the B-CAN system.
NOTE: Always cycle the ignition switch within 3 seconds when prompted in the DTC
troubleshooting procedures.
- Exterior lights
- Turn signals
- Interior lights
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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- Power window
- Wiper/washer
- Security
- Keyless entry
- Climate control
- Key interlock
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (A), then turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
3. From the BODY ELECTRICAL menu, select UNIT INFORMATION, and then select
CONNECTED UNIT listed to see if the following control
NOTE: -
- If a unit is not communicating or the vehicle is not equipped, "Not Available" will be displayed.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - If any of the control units are not communicating, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode
B. If all units are not communicating or only the MICU is communicating, go to DTC B1000
troubleshooting. See: Testing and Inspection/Diagnostic Trouble Code Tests and Associated
Procedures/B Code Charts/B1000
4. Select the system that has the problem from the BODY ELECTRICAL menu, then select DTCs.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - If the problem is related to one of the following items, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test
Mode C if the system does not stop or turn off. Go to test mode D if the system does not run or turn
on. -
Exterior lights
- Turn signals
- Interior lights
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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- Wiper/washer
If the problem is related to one of the following items, go to the troubleshooting for that individual
system.
- Security
- Keyless entry
- Climate control
- Key interlock
- Audio system
- Navigation
5. Record all DTCs, and sort them by DTC type. 6. Troubleshoot the DTC(s) in this order:
- Loss of communication DTCs. Begin troubleshooting with the lowest number first (Example: if
DTC B1008 and B1011 are retrieved, begin by troubleshooting B1008).
Perform this diagnosis if any of the control units are not communicating (Not Available is displayed
in the HDS) as found by the B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode A.
1. Using the HDS, select the system that has the symptom from the BODY ELECTRICAL menu. 2.
Select DTCs, and then check for loss of communication DTCs.
YES - Go to step 3.
3. Perform the input test for the unit not communicating with the HDS.
Perform this diagnosis if a component that is controlled by the B-CAN system does not stop or turn
off.
NOTE:
- If the component does not turn on, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode D.
- See the B-CAN system unit input/output index for a list of input and output devices and the control
units that monitor the input and controls the output devices.
- Always cycle the ignition switch within 3 seconds when prompted in the DTC troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Check for DTCs by selecting the TEST MODE menu from the HDS.
2. Turn off the switch that controls the malfunctioning component. 3. Select DATA LIST from the
TEST MODE menu, and check the input of the switch that controls the component.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 6.
4. In the DATA LIST, check the output signal of the malfunctioning component.
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Replace the control unit that controls the device that will not turn OFF
5. Check the relay, if applicable, then check for a short in the wire between the relay and the
component, the relay and control unit, or the component
YES - Replace the control unit that controls the component that will not turn OFF.
6. Check the switch, then check for a short in the wire between the switch and the control unit that
monitors the switch.
Perform this diagnosis if a component that is controlled by the B-CAN system does not run or come
on.
NOTE:
- If the component does not turn off or stop, go to B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode C.
- See the B-CAN system unit input/output index for a list of input and output devices and the control
units that monitor the input and controls the output devices.
- Always cycle the ignition switch within 3 seconds when prompted in the DTC troubleshooting
procedures.
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse and recheck.
2. Check for DTCs by selecting the TEST MODE menu from the HDS.
NO - Go to step 3.
3. Turn ON the switch that controls the malfunctioning component. 4. Select DATA LIST from the
TEST MODE menu, and check output signal for the malfunctioning component.
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Is there an output signal?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Go to step 9.
5. Check the relay and ground, then check for an open or a short in the circuit for the
malfunctioning component.
YES - Go to step 6.
YES - Go to step 7.
7. With the malfunctioning output device connected, connect a voltmeter between the
malfunctioning output device and body ground on the wire that
8. Select MISC. TEST from the TEST MODE menu, and do the forced operation test of the
malfunctioning component.
9. Select DATA LIST from the TEST MODE menu, and make sure the switch signal input for the
malfunctioning system indicates a change when
operated.
YES - Replace the control unit that controls the malfunctioning components
NO - Go to step 10.
10. Check the switch and its ground (if applicable), then check for an open or a short in the wire
between the switch and the control unit that monitors
it.
Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 (Without the HDS)
Troubleshooting - B-CAN System Diagnosis Test Mode 1 and Test Mode 2 (without the HDS)
Test Mode 1
Check the PCM for DTCs and troubleshoot PCM or F-CAN loss of communication errors first, then
perform this diagnosis if the HDS is not available.
1. Check the No. 23 (10 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box and No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the
under-dash fuse/relay box.
YES - Go to step 2.
2. Remove the left kick panel. 3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and move the ceiling light
switch to the middle (door) position. 4. Connect the MPCS service connector (A) to the MICU
service check connector (B) in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
5. Wait 5 seconds, and watch the ceiling light. When the ceiling light flashes quickly once, and then
go off, the system is in Test Mode 1. 6. Check for B-CAN DTCs indicated by the gauge control
module (tach) odometer/trip meter display while still in Test Mode 1. Push the odometer
select/reset button to display the next code. After you get to the last code, the display shows END.
If no DTCs are stored, the display will read NO.
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Go to step 10.
7. Record all DTCs and sort them. 8. Troubleshoot the DTCs in this order:
- Loss of communication DTCs (begin with the lowest number first; for example, if B1008 and
B1011 are retrieved, troubleshoot B1008 first)
Test Mode 2
10. Remove the MPCS service connector from the under-dash fuse/relay box socket for 5 - 10
seconds, then re-insert it to enter Mode 2. When the
system enters Mode 2, the ceiling light will flash two times quickly and then go off.
NOTE: If the MPCS connector is disconnected for too short or too long of a time, or the ignition
switch is turned OFF, the system will return to Test Mode 1.
11. The following tables list the circuits that can be checked in Test Mode 2. Operate the switch
that is most closely related to the problem. If the
circuit is OK, the ceiling light will blink once. If the circuit is faulty, there will be no indication.
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3461
Does the ceiling light work properly in all switch positions?
YES - Go to function and input test for the system related to the failure.
Certain inputs happen so quickly that the HDS cannot update fast enough. Hold the switch that is
being tested while monitoring the Data List. This should give the HDS time to update the signal on
the Data List.
Because the HDS software is updated to support the release for newer vehicles it is not uncommon
to see system function tests that are not supported.
Part 1
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Part 2
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 3464
Part 3
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Part 4
Part 5
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Part 6
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Locations
8. Knock Sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > Page 3472
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > Page 3473
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3481
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the
emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have
been cleared, or if the PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the
emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to
complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished.
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start
the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are
complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete!. To set each code,
drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3485
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module (tach), and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK,
replace the original gauge control module (tach).
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 4. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is a short indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P), then disconnect the HDS.
7. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A31 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A31), the SRS unit, and the DLC
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3492
2. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
WU-TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor > Page 3501
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the warm up
three way catalytic converter (WU-TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration
of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM
compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The
secondary HO2S is located on the WU-TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A),
then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 3519
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 3521
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration
Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration
Software Updates > Page 3527
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration
Software Updates > Page 3529
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 03-020 > Apr > 10 > Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Emissions - OBD II DTC's And Associated
Monitors
03-020
April 2, 2010
*REVISION SUMMARY
Following is a list of all OBD II DTCs and their associated monitors for all Honda automobiles with
OBD II. No one model has every DTC in the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
3565
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3571
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3573
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3574
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3575
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3576
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3577
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3578
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3579
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3580
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3584
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3586
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3587
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3588
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3589
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3590
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3591
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3592
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3593
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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and Instructions > Page 3594
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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and Instructions > Page 3596
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3598
237. PCM
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and Instructions > Page 3607
237. PCM
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout
Values and Diagnostic Parameters
Engine Control Module: Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
How to Troubleshoot Circuits At the PCM
NOTE: The PCM overwrites data and monitors the EVAP system for up to 30 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned OFF. Jumping the SCS line after turning the ignition switch OFF cancels
this function. Disconnecting the PCM during this function, without jumping the SCS line first, can
damage the PCM.
1. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 2. Remove the cover (A).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
5. When diagnosis/troubleshooting is done at the PCM connector, use the terminal test port (A)
above the terminal you need to check.
6. Connect one side of the patch cord (A) terminals to a commercially available digital multimeter
(B), and connect the other side of the patch cord
terminals to a commercially available banana jack (Pomona Electronics Tool No. 3563 or
equivalent) (C).
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Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 3610
7. Gently contact the pin probe (male) at the terminal test port from the terminal side. Do not force
the tips into the terminals.
NOTE: -
- To prevent damage to the connector terminals, do not insert test equipment probes, paper clips,
or other substitutes as they can damage the terminals. Damaged terminals cause a poor
connection and an incorrect measurement.
- Do not puncture the insulation on a wire. Punctures can cause poor or intermittent electrical
connections.
PCM Update
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Use this procedure when you need to update the PCM during troubleshooting procedures.
- Before you update the PCM, make sure the battery in the vehicle is fully charged, and connect a
jumper battery (not a battery charger) to maintain system voltage.
- Never turn the ignition switch OFF during the update. If there is a problem with the update, leave
the ignition switch ON.
- To prevent PCM damage, do not operate anything electrical (headlights, audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, door locks, etc.) during the update.
- To ensure the latest program is installed, do a PCM update whenever the PCM is substituted or
replaced.
- You cannot update a PCM with a program it already has. It will only accept a new program.
- High temperature in the engine compartment might cause the PCM to become too hot to run the
update. If the engine has been running before this procedure, open the hood and cool the engine
compartment.
- If you need to diagnose the Honda interface module (HIM) because the HIM's red (#3) light came
on or was flashed during the update, leave the ignition switch in the ON (II) position when you
disconnect the HIM from the data link connector (DLC). This will prevent PCM damage.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start the engine. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to
the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts with the HDS.
6. Exit the HDS. Select the update mode, and follow the screen prompts to update the PCM.
7. If the software in the PCM is the latest, disconnect the HDS/HIM from the DLC, and go back to
the procedure that you were doing. If the software
in the PCM is not the latest, follow the instructions on the screen. If prompted to choose the
PGM-FI system or the A/T system, make sure you update both.
NOTE: If the PCM update system requires you to cool the PCM, follow the instructions on screen. If
you run into a problem during the update procedure (programming takes over 15 minutes, status
bar goes over 100 %, D or immobilizer indicator flashes, HDS tablet freezes, etc.), follow these
steps to minimize the chance of damaging the PCM: -
- Reconnect the HDS to the DLC, and try the update procedure again.
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Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 3619
8. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 5, clean the throttle body. 9. Do the PCM idle learn
procedure.
10. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 11. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration
procedure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Procedures
Engine Control Module: Procedures
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during troubleshooting
procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Remove the battery. 9. Remove the cover (A).
10. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
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Page 3622
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
14. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 15. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 16. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 17. Enter the immobilizer code
using the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; this allows you to start the engine. 18. Reset
the PCM with the HDS. 19. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in step 6, clean the throttle body. 20.
Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 21. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 22. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicle
without navigation).
ECM Reset
HDS Clear Command
The PCM stores various specific data to correct the system even if there is no electrical power such
as when the battery negative terminal or No. 19 FI MAIN (15 A) fuse are disconnected. Stored data
based on failed parts should be cleared by using the "CLEAR COMMAND" of the HDS, if parts are
replaced.
The HDS has three kinds of clear commands to meet this purpose. They are DTC clear/PCM reset,
and CKP pattern clear. DTC clear command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data, on-board
snapshot, and readiness codes. This must be done with the HDS after , reproducing the DTC
during troubleshooting. The PCM reset command erases all stored DTC codes, freeze data,
on-board snapshot, readiness codes, and all specific data to correct the system except CKP
pattern. If the CKP pattern data in the PCM was cleared, you must do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. The CKP pattern clear command erases only CKP pattern data. This command is for
repair of a misfire or the CKP sensor.
If you are using a generic scan tool to clear commands, be aware that there is only one setting for
clearing the PCM, and it clears all commands at the same time (CKP pattern learn, idle learn,
readiness codes, freeze data, on-board snapshot, and DTCs). After you clear all commands, you
then need to do these procedures, in this order: PCM idle learn procedure; CKP pattern learn
procedure; Test-drive to set readiness codes to complete.
DTC Clear
1. Clear the DTC with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
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Page 3623
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
PCM Reset
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS while the engine is stopped. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF, and
disconnect the HDS from the DLC. 5. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 6. Do the start clutch
pressure control calibration procedure.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
4. Select CRANK PATTERN in the ADJUSTMENT MENU with the HDS. 5. Select CRANK
PATTERN LEARNING with the HDS, and follow the screen prompts.
1. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on. 2. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully
closed) from an engine speed of 2,500 rpm down to 1,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
3. Test-drive the vehicle on a level road: Decelerate (with the throttle fully closed) from an engine
speed of 5,000 rpm down to 3,000 rpm with the
transmission in L position.
4. Repeat step 2 and 3 several times. 5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Turn the ignition switch
ON (II), and wait 30 seconds. The CKP pattern learn procedure is complete.
1. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 2. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 3. Turn the ignition switch
OFF. 4. Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
NOTE: The PCM is part of the immobilizer system. If you replace the PCM, it will have a different
immobilizer code. In order for the engine to start, you must rewrite the immobilizer code with the
HDS.
The idle learn procedure must be done so the PCM can learn the engine idle characteristics.
NOTE: Clearing the DTCs with the HDS does not require you to do the idle learn procedure.
Procedure
1. Make sure all electrical items (A/C, audio, lights, etc.) are off. 2. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 3.
Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and wait 2 seconds. 4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at
3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the radiator fan comes on, or until the engine
coolant
5. Let the engine idle for about 5 minutes with the throttle fully closed.
NOTE: If the radiator fan comes on, do not include its running time in the 5 minutes.
6. Verify on the HDS data list that the idle learn procedure is complete.
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Page 3625
PCM Replacement
- Honda interface module (HIM) and an in workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE:
- Make sure the HDS is loaded with the latest software version.
- If you are replacing the PCM after substituting a known-good PCM, reinstall the original PCM,
then do this procedure.
- During the procedure, is any READ DATA, WRITE DATA, or other data checks fail, note the
failure, then continue.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC)
(A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM and other
vehicle systems. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and
5. Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 6. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 7.
Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the TP POSITION CHECK indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
8. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then READ DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: -
Doing this step copies (READS) the engine oil life data from the original PCM so you can later
download (WRITES) it into the new PCM.
12. Remove the bolts (D), then remove the PCM (E).
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. 15. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 16.
Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
17. If the READ DATA (engine oil life) failed in step 8, go to step 22. Otherwise, go to step 18. 18.
Select the PGM-FI system with the HDS. 19. Select the REPLACE PCM MENU, then WRITE
DATA and follow the screen prompts.
NOTE: If the WRITE DATA indicates FAILED, continue with this procedure.
20. Select IMMOBI system with the HDS. 21. Enter the immobilizer code with the PCM
replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 22. If the TP POSITION
CHECK failed in step 7 clean the throttle body, then go to step 23. 23. If the READ DATA failed in
step 8 or the WRITE DATA failed in step 19, replace the engine oil and engine oil filter, then go to
step 24. 24. Select PGM-FI system and reset the PCM with the HDS. 25. Update the PCM if it does
not have the latest software. 26. Do the PCM idle learn procedure. 27. Do the CKP pattern learn
procedure. 28. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedure. 29. Enter the anti-theft
codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
30. Check that the IMA battery level indicator (BAT). If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the
gauge indicates zero level, start the engine, and
hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level
indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Feedback Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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and Instructions > Page 3631
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3638
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3639
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3640
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3641
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3645
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3647
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3648
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3649
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3650
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3651
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3652
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3653
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3654
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3655
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3656
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3657
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Computers and Control Systems > Feedback Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3658
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Computers and Control Systems > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 3666
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 3675
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
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Computers and Control Systems > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and
Operation > Page 3676
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Testing and Inspection/Component
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3685
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Barometric Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation
Barometric Pressure Sensor: Description and Operation
The BARO sensor is inside the PCM. It converts atmospheric pressure into a voltage signal that
modifies the basic duration of the fuel injection discharge.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP
Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP
Sensor Replacement > Page 3697
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
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Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP
Sensor Replacement > Page 3698
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Locations
ECT sensors 1 and 2 are temperature dependent resistors (thermistors). The resistance decreases
as the engine coolant temperature increases.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service
and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 1
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the air cleaner. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 1 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 1 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Service
and Repair > ECT Sensor 1 Replacement > Page 3705
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair ECT Sensor 2
Replacement
1. Drain the engine coolant. 2. Remove the splash shield. 3. Disconnect the ECT sensor 2 2P
connector (A).
4. Remove ECT sensor 2 (B). 5. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring
(C), then refill the radiator with engine coolant. 6. Install the splash shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP
Pulse Plate Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP
Pulse Plate Replacement > Page 3714
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
ELD Replacement
1. Remove the PCM. 2. Remove the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the screw (A).
5. Turn the housing over again. Using two flat-tip screwdrivers, release the tabs (A), and pry up the
fuse/relay box base (B) from the fuse/relay box
housing (C).
NOTE: Make sure the terminals (D) are not bent or damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Electric Load Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3723
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The FTP sensor converts fuel tank absolute pressure into an electrical input to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3733
3. Disconnect the air hose (B), and then remove the FTP sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D) and retainer (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3740
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations
8. Knock Sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3746
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3747
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The MAP sensor converts manifold absolute pressure into electrical signals to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 3754
2. Remove the MAP sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor
The A/F sensor operates over a wide air/fuel range. The A/F sensor is installed upstream of the
WU-TWC, and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration of fuel injection accordingly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Air Fuel Ratio
(A/F) Sensor > Page 3763
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation Secondary Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
The secondary HO2S detects the oxygen content in the exhaust gas downstream of the warm up
three way catalytic converter (WU-TWC), and sends signals to the PCM which varies the duration
of fuel injection accordingly. To stabilize its output, the sensor has an internal heater. The PCM
compares the HO2S output with the A/F sensor output to determine catalyst efficiency. The
secondary HO2S is located on the WU-TWC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > A/F Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 2. Disconnect the A/F sensor 4P connector (A),
then remove the A/F sensor (B).
1. Disconnect the secondary HO2S 4P connector (A), then remove the secondary HO2S (B).
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch > Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure switch (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3791
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3792
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3794
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3795
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3796
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3797
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3798
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3799
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3800
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3801
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3805
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3807
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3808
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3809
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3810
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3811
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3812
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3813
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3814
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3815
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3816
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3817
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3818
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3819
Variable Valve Timing Actuator: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 31
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Actuator
Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure sensor (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Pressure
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Variable Valve Timing Pressure Switch: Locations
2. Remove the rocker arm oil pressure switch (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
> Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the rocker arm oil control solenoid 1 connector (A),
the rocker arm oil control solenoid 2 connector (B), the rocker arm oil pressure
switch connector (C), and the rocker arm oil pressure sensor connector (D).
3. Remove the bolts (E). 4. Remove the rocker arm oil control valve (F). 5. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new rocker arm oil control valve filter (G).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations
Warm Up/Three Way Catalytic Converter (WU-TWC) and Three Way Catalytic Converter (TWC)
The WU-TWC/TWC converts hydrocarbons (HC), carbon monoxide (CO), and oxides of nitrogen
(NOx) in the exhaust gas to carbon dioxide (CO2), nitrogen (N2), and water vapor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Warm Up TWC
1. Remove the A/F sensor (Sensor 1). 2. Remove the chamber cover. 3. Remove the under-floor
TWC. 4. Remove the secondary HO2S (Sensor 2). 5. Remove the right driveshaft, then remove the
intermediate shaft. 6. Remove the WU-TWC (A) and the gasket (B).
8. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new gasket.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Warm Up TWC > Page 3842
2. Remove the converter cover (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with the new
gaskets (C) and the new self-locking nuts (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Diagrams
When the engine coolant temperature is below 113 °F (45 °C), the PCM turns off the EVAP
canister purge valve cutting vacuum to the EVAP canister.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Control Valve > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3848
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the hoses (A) and the EVAP canister purge valve 2P
connector (B).
3. Remove the EVAP canister purge valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Canister Filter > Component Information > Service and Repair
2. Remove the EVAP canister filter (B). 3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Canister Vent Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation
The EVAP canister vent shut valve is on the EVAP canister. The EVAP canister vent shut valve
controls venting of the EVAP canister.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Canister Vent Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 3856
3. Remove the EVAP canister vent shut valve (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with new O-rings (C) and new cap.
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the EGR valve (C). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of
removal with a new gasket (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Clean and dry the oil/air separator mating surfaces, bolts, and bolt holes. 2. Apply a 1.5 mm wide
bead of the liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009, along the
broken line (A). Install the
component within 5 minutes of applying the liquid gasket.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
NOTE: Wait at least 30 minutes before filling the engine with oil.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Check the PCV valve (A), hoses (B), and connections for leaks or restrictions.
2. At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the PCV valve when the hose between the PCV
valve and intake manifold is lightly pinched (A)
If there is no clicking sound, check the hose for cracks or damage. If the hose is OK, replace the
PCV valve and recheck.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3876
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the PCV hose (A), then unscrew the PCV valve (B),
and remove it.
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new washer (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches - Emission
Control Systems > EGR Valve Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure.......................................................................................................................................
..........270 - 320 kpa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 3886
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > System
Information > Specifications > Page 3887
'07 model
2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure
gauge. 3. Reinstall the air cleaner (B). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle.
5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed.
The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when
- If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting.
The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). -
- If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then
recheck the fuel pressure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disabling the fuel
pump and then disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the HDS
to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump
OFF, then start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: -
Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump.
- A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them
as needed.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 12. Remove
the air cleaner. 13. Remove the cover (A) and the quick-connect fitting cover (B).
14. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 15. Place a rag or shop towel
over the quick-connect fitting (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 3891
16. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
17. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 18. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the
auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 3892
3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Remove the fuel fill cap. 6. Disconnect the negative cable from
the battery. 7. Remove the air cleaner. 8. Remove the cover (A) and quick-connect fitting cover (B).
9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 3893
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
14. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications
Idle Speed: Specifications
When the engine is cold, the A/C compressor is on, the transmission is in gear, the brake pedal is
pressed, the power steering load is high, or the alternator is charging, the PCM sends signals to
the throttle position to maintain the correct idle speed.
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
The EPS signals the PCM when the power steering load is high.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System Information
> Specifications > Page 3898
- The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has not been reported on, and there are no DTCs.
- Ignition timing
- Spark plugs
- Air cleaner
- PCV system
- Headlight OFF
1. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) canister purge valve connector. 2. Connect the
HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't, go to the DLC circuit
troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 5. Check the idle speed without load conditions: headlights,
blower fan, radiator fan, and air conditioner off.
6. Let the engine idle for 1 minute with high electric load (A/C switch on, temperature set to max
cool, blower fan on High, and headlights on high
beam).
NOTE: If the idle speed is not within specification, do the PCM idle learn procedure. If the idle
speed is still not within specification, go to symptom troubleshooting.
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 3906
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3907
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3913
2. Remove the air cleaner element (B) from the air cleaner housing (C). 3. Check the air cleaner
element for damage or clogging. If there is damage or clogging, replace the air cleaner element.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to clean the air cleaner element.
4. Clean and remove any debris from the inside of the air cleaner. 5. Install the parts in the reverse
order of removal.
- If you did not replace the air cleaner element, this procedure is complete.
- If the maintenance minder required air cleaner replacement, reset the maintenance minder.
- If you replace the air cleaner element, reset the PCM, and do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3921
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filler Cap Warning Indicator
> Component Information > Description and Operation
The PCM detects a loose or missing fuel fill cap as an evaporative system leak and alerts the driver
by showing a warning message in the gauge display.
The first time a leak is detected a "CHECK FUEL CAP" message appears in the gauge display (A).
To scroll to another message, press the select/reset button. The "CHECK FUEL CAP" message
will appear each time you restart the engine until the system turns the message off. Turn the
engine off then replace or tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks at least once.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Clear the Temporary DTC with the HDS. 3. Verify there is
no leak by doing the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Start the engine, then turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Repeat step 2 two more times.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
Before disconnecting fuel lines or hoses, relieve pressure from the system by disabling the fuel
pump and then disconnecting the fuel tube/quick connect fitting in the engine compartment.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Connect the HDS
to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 5. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
6. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 7. Remove the fuel fill cap to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank.
8. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 9. From the INSPECTION MENU of the HDS, select Fuel Pump
OFF, then start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
NOTE: -
Do not allow the engine to idle above 1,000 rpm or the PCM will continue to operate the fuel pump.
- A DTC or a Temporary DTC may be set during this procedure. Check for DTCs, and clear them
as needed.
10. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 11. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery. 12. Remove
the air cleaner. 13. Remove the cover (A) and the quick-connect fitting cover (B).
14. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed. 15. Place a rag or shop towel
over the quick-connect fitting (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3929
16. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
17. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 18. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
19. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Remove PGM-FI main relay 2 (A) from the
auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3930
3. Start the engine, and let it idle until it stalls.
4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5. Remove the fuel fill cap. 6. Disconnect the negative cable from
the battery. 7. Remove the air cleaner. 8. Remove the cover (A) and quick-connect fitting cover (B).
9. Check the fuel quick-connect fitting for dirt, and clean it if needed.
10. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting (A).
11. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A): Hold the connector (B) with one hand, and squeeze
the retainer tabs (C) with the other hand to release
them from the locking tabs (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 3931
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
12. After disconnecting the quick-connect fitting, check it for dirt or damage. 13. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
14. Enter the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams
54. Injectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 3935
Injector Replacement
1. Relieve the fuel pressure; '06 model, '07-08 models. 2. Remove the resonator. 3. Remove the air
cleaner. 4. Remove the nut (A).
5. Disconnect the connectors (B) from the injectors, the intake side ignition coils, the EGR valve,
the rocker arm oil control valve, the rocker arm oil
pressure sensor, the MAP sensor, and the rocker arm oil pressure switch.
6. Remove the ground terminals (C). 7. Disconnect the hoses from the fuel rail (D). 8. Remove the
fuel rail mounting nuts (E) from the fuel rail, then remove the injectors and fuel rail together. 9.
Remove the injector clips (F) from the injectors (G).
10. Remove the injectors from the fuel rail. 11. Coat the new O-rings (A) with clean engine oil, and
insert the injectors (B) into the fuel rail (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 3936
12. Install the injector clips (D). 13. Coat the injector O-rings (E) with clean engine oil. 14. Install the
injectors into the injector base (F). 15. Install the fuel rail mounting nuts (G). 16. Install the nut (H)
with a new O-ring (I). 17. Reconnect the fuel hoses. 18. Connect the ground terminal. 19. Connect
the connectors on the injectors, the intake side ignition coils, the EGR valve, the rocker arm oil
control valve, the rocker arm oil pressure
sensor, the MAP sensor, and the rocker arm oil pressure switch.
20. Install the air cleaner. 21. Install the resonator. 22. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not
operate the starter. After the fuel pump runs for about 2 seconds, the fuel pressure in the fuel line
rises. Repeat this two or three times, then check for fuel leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions
The fuel line/quick-connect fittings (A), (B), (C), (D), (E), (F), (G) connect the fuel feed hose (H) to
the fuel feed pipe (I), the fuel feed hose (J) to the fuel feed pipe (K), the fuel feed hose to the fuel
tank unit (L), the fuel tank unit to the EVAP canister (M), the EVAP canister to the fuel vapor line
(N), fuel tank vapor recirculation tube (O) to the fuel fill pipe (P), and the fuel fill neck tube (Q) to the
fuel fill pipe. When removing or installing the fuel feed hose, the fuel tank unit, or the fuel tank, it is
necessary to disconnect or connect the quick-connect fittings. Pay attention to the following:
- The fuel feed hoses, the fuel line, and the quick-connect fittings are not heat-resistant; be careful
not to damage them during welding or other heat-generating procedures.
- The fuel feed hoses, the fuel line, and the quick-connect fittings are not acid-proof; do not touch
them with a shop towel that was used for wiping battery electrolyte. Replace them if they come in
contact with electrolyte or something similar.
- When connecting or disconnecting the fuel feed hoses, the fuel line, and the quick-connect
fittings, be careful not to bend or twist them excessively. Replace them if they are damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3940
A disconnected quick-connect fitting can be reconnected, but the retainer on the mating line cannot
be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the retainer when:
- it is damaged.
NOTE: The fuel line/quick-connect fittings retainer (D), (E), (F), and (G) can be reused once. If the
fuel line/quick-connect fittings retainer (F) is damaged, replace the fuel tank
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3941
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3942
Fuel Line Coupler: Service and Repair
NOTE: Before you work on the fuel lines and fittings, read the "Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting
Precautions".
1. Relieve the fuel pressure; '06 model, '07-08 models. 2. Check the fuel quick-connect fittings (A)
for dirt, and clean them if needed.
3. Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting. Hold the connector (A) with one hand,
and squeeze the retainer tabs (B) with the other
hand to release them from the locking tabs (C). Pull the connector off.
Fuel tank vapor control tube: Place a rag or shop towel over the quick-connect fitting. Pull locking
tab (D). Pull the connector off.
NOTE: -
Be careful not to damage the line (E) or other parts. Do not use tools.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3943
- If the connector does not move, keep the retainer tabs pressed down, and alternately pull and
push the connector until it comes off easily.
- Do not remove the retainer from the line; once removed, the retainer must be replaced with a new
one.
4. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage.
- If it is rusty or damaged, replace the fuel filter or the fuel feed line.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3944
5. To prevent damage and keep foreign matter out, cover the disconnected connector and line
ends with plastic bags (A).
NOTE: The retainer cannot be reused once it has been removed from the line. Replace the retainer
when: -
- it is damaged.
NOTE: Before you work on the fuel lines and fittings, read the "Fuel Line/Quick-Connect Fitting
Precautions".
1. Check the contact area (A) of the line (B) for dirt or damage, and clean it if needed.
2. Insert a new retainer (A) into the connector (B) if the retainer is damaged, or after:
- Use the same manufacturer retainer and the same size retainer when the replacing the retainer.
3. Before connecting a new fuel tube/quick-connect fitting assembly (A), remove the old retainer
from the mating line.
4. Align the quick-connect fittings with the line (A), and align the retainer locking tabs (B) with the
connector grooves (C). Then press the
quick-connect fittings onto the line until both retainer tabs lock with a clicking sound.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3946
NOTE: If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of new engine oil on the line end.
5. Fuel tank vapor control tube: insert the line end (A) into the connector end, then press the
locking tab (B).
NOTE: If it is hard to connect, put a small amount of new engine oil on the line end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler > Component
Information > Service Precautions > Page 3947
6. When you are reconnecting the connector with the old retainer, make sure the connection is
secure and the tabs (A) are firmly locked into place;
check visually and also by pulling the connector (B). When you are replacing the fuel line with a
new one, make sure you remove the ring pull (C) upwards after you confirm the connection is
secure.
NOTE: Before you remove the ring pull, make sure the fuel line connection is secure. If the
connection is not secure, the ring pull could break when you try to remove it.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). The fuel pump will run for about 2 seconds, and fuel pressure
will rise. Repeat two or three times, and check that
3. Remove the ground ring (B). 4. Remove the fuel pressure regulator (C). 5. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with new O-rings (D) and a new bracket (A). When installing the fuel tank
unit, align the marks on
NOTE: Coat the O-rings with clean engine oil; do not use any other oil.
1. Relieve the fuel pressure; '06 model, '07-08 models. 2. Remove the engine cover. 3. Remove
the fuel rail mounting nuts from the fuel rail. 4. Disconnect the fuel injector connectors. 5. Remove
the fuel rail. 6. Place a wrench (A) on the fuel rail (B).
7. Place a wrench (C) on the fuel pulsation damper (D). 8. Remove the pulsation damper. 9. Install
the parts in the reverse order of removal with the new washers.
NOTE: -
Replace all washers whenever the fuel pulsation damper is loosened or removed.
- If the drain hole (A) of the fuel pulsation damper cover does not face bottom, reinstall it as shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications
Fuel Pressure: Specifications
Fuel Pressure.......................................................................................................................................
..........270 - 320 kpa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3958
Fuel Pressure: Service Precautions
WARNING: Adhere to the following procedures any time the fuel system is being worked on in
order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury:
- Keep a dry chemical (Class B) fire extinguisher near the work area.
- Work in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke, and keep sparks and open flames away.
- Use caution when working near the catalytic converter to prevent the possibility of burns or fire.
(The temperatures within the converter can exceed 537 °C (1000 °F).
- Relieve the fuel system pressure prior to disconnecting fuel system components.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable except for tests where battery voltage is required.
- After making any fuel system repairs ALWAYS inspect for fuel leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
System Information > Specifications > Page 3959
'07 model
2. Disconnect the quick-connect fitting (A). Attach the fuel pressure gauge set and the fuel pressure
gauge. 3. Reinstall the air cleaner (B). 4. Start the engine, and let it idle.
5. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: listen to the fuel filler port with the fuel fill cap removed.
The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds when
- If the pump does not run, do the fuel pump circuit troubleshooting.
The pressure should be 270 - 320 kPa (2.8 - 3.3 kgf/sq.cm, 40 - 47 psi). -
- If the pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter, then
recheck the fuel pressure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay >
Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3964
Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Check the fuel system lines and hoses for damage, leaks, and deterioration. Replace any damaged
parts.
Check all quick-connect fittings, and make sure they are properly positioned and tightened.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3968
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Check the fuel system lines and hoses for damage, leaks, and deterioration. Replace any damaged
parts.
Check all quick-connect fittings, and make sure they are properly positioned and tightened.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3972
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Filler Neck: Service and Repair
1. Remove the screw, then remove the fuel cap (A) by turning it counterclockwise.
2. Remove the bolts, and the lower the fuel filler pipe (A), then remove it from the fuel cap adapter
(B).
NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram.
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Disconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 4. Measure voltage between floor wire
harness C651 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should
be
battery voltage. -
If the voltage is OK, check for short or open in the fuel subharness, then go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 7. Measure
resistance between fuel tank unit 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E
(EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
8. Reconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 9. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A)
fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it.
10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 11. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with
the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F" replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3981
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Locations > Page 3982
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Locations
Fuel Tank Unit: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3988
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3989
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3991
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3992
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3993
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3994
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3995
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3996
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3997
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3998
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4002
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4004
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4005
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4006
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4007
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4008
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4009
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4010
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4011
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4012
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4013
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4014
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4015
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4016
Fuel Tank Unit: Service and Repair Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement > Page 4019
Fuel Tank Unit: Service and Repair Fuel Tank Unit Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the fuel tank. 2. Disconnect the fuel tank unit 4P connector. 3. Using the special tool,
loosen the locknut (A).
4. Remove the locknut (A) and the fuel tank unit (B).
Installation
1. Temporarily attach a new base gasket (A) to the fuel tank unit (B), then insert the fuel tank unit
partially into the fuel tank.
NOTE: -
3. Align the marks (B) on the fuel tank and the fuel tank unit, then insert the fuel tank unit into the
fuel tank until it sits the base gasket.
NOTE: To prevent a fuel leak, check the base gasket, visually or by hand, to make sure it is not
pinched.
4. Install the new locknut plate (A) and new locknut (B).
5. Using the special tool, tighten a locknut (A) to the specified torque.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pump/Fuel Gauge Sending Unit Replacement > Page 4021
NOTE: -
- After installation, check the base gasket, visually or by hand, to make sure it is not pinched.
6. Connect the fuel tank unit 4P connector. 7. Install the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel
System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 4029
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 4035
Fuel Pump Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations
PGM-FI main relay 1 is energized whenever the ignition switch is ON (II) to supply battery voltage
to the PCM, power to the injectors, and power for PGM-FI main relay 2. PGM-FI main relay 2 is
energized to supply power to the fuel pump for 2 seconds when the ignition switch is turned ON (II),
and when the engine is cranking or running.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System) > Component Information > Locations > Page 4043
Main Relay (Computer/Fuel System): Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Resonator, Intake Air >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Resonator Removal/Installation
3. Remove the resonator (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The throttle is electronically controlled by the electronic throttle control system. Refer to the system
diagram to see a functional layout of the system.
Idle control: When the engine is idling, the PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain the proper
idle speed according to engine loads.
Acceleration control: When the accelerator pedal is pressed, the PCM opens the throttle valve
depending on the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor signal.
Cruise control: The PCM controls the throttle actuator to maintain set speed when the cruise
control is operating. The throttle actuator takes the place of the cruise control actuator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Electronic Throttle Control System > Page 4055
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor: Description and Operation Accelerator Pedal Position (APP)
Sensor
As the accelerator pedal position changes, the sensor varies the signal voltage to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 4056
NOTE:
- This procedure checks the APP sensor in this fully closed position. In any other position, the APP
sensor stores DTCs which are covered in other troubleshooting procedures.
- Check for Temporary DTCs or DTCs with the HDS before doing this procedure. If any DTCs are
indicated, troubleshoot them first, then do this procedure.
- Press the accelerator pedal several times, to check its operation. If it does not operate smoothly,
check the pedal. If you find a problem, replace the accelerator pedal module.
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is not 0 %, update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
PCM, then go to step 5.
5. Make sure the accelerator pedal is not pressed, then check the APP SENSOR in the DATA LIST
with the HDS.
- If it is 0 %, the APP sensor is OK.
NOTE: The APP sensor is not available separately. Do not disassemble the accelerator pedal
module.
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor/intake air temperature (IAT) sensor contains a hot wire and a
thermistor. It is located in the intake air passage. The resistance of the hot wire and thermistor
changes due to intake air temperature and air flow. The control circuit in the MAF sensor controls
the current to keep the hot wire at a set temperature. The current is converted to voltage in the
control circuit, then output to the PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Air Flow Meter/Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 4065
2. Remove the bolts (B). 3. Remove the MAF sensor/IAT sensor (C). 4. Install the parts in the
reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
Throttle Body
The throttle body is a single-barrel side draft type. The lower portion of the throttle valve is heated
by engine coolant from the cylinder head to prevent icing of the throttle plate.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 4074
NOTE: If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, check for diagnostic trouble
code (DTCs).
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 5. Check the REL TP SENSOR in the DATA LIST with the
HDS. The reading should be below 3 deg. If it is not, clean the throttle body.
NOTE: If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) has been reported on, check for diagnostic trouble
code (DTCs).
1. Connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the
dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it doesn't,
go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. See: Computers and Control
4. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 5. Do the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS
TEST. If needed, clean the throttle body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Procedures
CAUTION: Do not insert your fingers into the installed throttle body when you turn the ignition
switch ON (II) or while the ignition switch is ON (II). If you do, you will seriously injure your fingers if
the throttle valve is activated.
1. Check for damage to the air cleaner. If the air cleaner is damaged, replace it. 2. Remove the
throttle body. 3. Clean off the carbon from the throttle valve and inside the throttle body with a
paper towel soaked in throttle plate and induction cleaner.
NOTE: -
- To avoid removing the molybdenum coating, do not clean the bearing area of the throttle shaft
(A).
- Do not spray throttle plate and induction cleaner directly on the throttle body.
4. Install the throttle body. 5. Reset the PCM with the HDS. 6. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and
wait 2 seconds. 7. Do the PCM idle learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Procedures > Page 4077
CAUTION: Do not insert your fingers into the installed throttle body when you turn the ignition
switch ON (II) or while the ignition switch is ON (II). If you do, you will seriously injure your fingers if
the throttle valve is activated.
NOTE: If you are replacing or cleaning the throttle body, start at step 1. If you are removing the
throttle body, start at step 4.
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC while the engine is stopped. 2. Select the INSPECTION MENU on
the HDS. 3. Do the TP POSITION CHECK in the ETCS TEST. 4. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 5.
Remove the cowl cover and under-cowl panel. 6. Remove the air cleaner, and the intake air duct
(A).
7. Disconnect the throttle body connector (B). 8. Disconnect and plug the water bypass hoses (C)
and vacuum hose (D). 9. Remove the throttle body (E).
10. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new gasket (F).
NOTE: -
Ignition Timing
....................................................................................................................................... 10 ° ± 2 °
BTDC (RED mark (B)) at idle in N or P
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > System Information >
Specifications > Page 4091
Ignition Timing: Description and Operation
The PCM contains the memory for basic ignition timing at various engine speeds and manifold
absolute pressure. It also adjusts the timing according to engine coolant temperature and intake air
temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > System Information >
Specifications > Page 4092
1. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 2. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
4. Check for DTCs. If a DTC is present, diagnose and repair the cause before continuing with this
test. 5. Start the engine. Hold the engine speed at 3,000 rpm with no load (in N or P) until the
radiator fan comes on, then let it idle. 6. Check the idle speed. 7. Jump the SCS line with the HDS.
8. Connect the timing light to the exhaust side No. 1 ignition coil harness.
9. Aim the light toward the pointer (A) on the cam chain case. Check the ignition timing under a no
load condition (headlights, blower fan, rear
10. If the ignition timing differs from the specification, check the cam timing. If the cam timing is OK,
update the PCM if it does not have the latest
software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then recheck. If the system works properly, and the
PCM was substituted, replace the original PCM.
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 4101
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 4102
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate Replacement > Page 4111
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Diagrams
1. Remove the engine cover. 2. Disconnect the ignition coil connectors, then remove the intake
side ignition coils (A) and exhaust side ignition coils (B).
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Install the No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the ignition coil relay
from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil 3P
connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4123
6. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
7. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 8. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
10. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
11. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P). 12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P
socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and
the PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and PCM connector
terminal A6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4124
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the PCM
(A6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Relay > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4125
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Locations
8. Knock Sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 4131
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Locations > Page 4132
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Relay > Component Information > Locations
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Replace the fuse. If the fuse continues to blow, locate and repair the short in the circuit
between the under-hood fuse/relay box and the ignition coils.
2. Install the No. 18 (20 A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. 3. Remove the ignition coil relay
from the under-hood fuse/relay box, and test it.
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Measure the voltage between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 2 and body ground, then
terminal No. 4 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 5.
5. Check for continuity between each ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil 3P
connector terminal No. 3.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 1 and ignition coil
3P connector terminal No. 3.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4141
6. Check for continuity between each ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Go to step 7.
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil 3P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
7. Connect the Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to the data link connector (DLC). 8. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 9. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the powertrain
control module (PCM). If it doesn't communicate, go to the DLC circuit
10. Jump the SCS line with the HDS, then turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
NOTE: This step must be done to protect the PCM from damage.
11. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P). 12. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P
socket terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and
the PCM (A6).
NO - Go to step 13.
13. Check for continuity between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and PCM connector
terminal A6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4142
Is there continuity?
YES - The system is OK at this time. Check for loose or poor connections at the ignition coil relay
and the PCM (A6).
NO - Repair open in the wire between ignition coil relay 4P socket terminal No. 3 and the PCM
(A6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System > Ignition
Relay > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Ignition Coil Relay Circuit > Page 4143
Ignition Relay: Testing and Inspection Power Relay
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CMP sensor detects the position of the No. 1 cylinder as a reference for sequential fuel
injection to each cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Disconnect the CMP sensor 3P connector (A).
3. Remove the CMP sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new
O-ring (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 4153
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CMP Pulse Plate Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly. 2. Remove the cylinder head cover. 3. Remove the purge
control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Remove the cylinder head plug.
5. Hold the camshaft with a 27 mm open-end wrench, then loosen the bolt.
Installation
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CMP Sensor Replacement > Page 4154
1. Install the CMP pulse plate (A). Hold the camshaft with an open-end wrench (B), then tighten the
bolt (C).
3. Install the purge control solenoid valve bracket. 4. Install the cylinder head cover. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The CKP sensor detects crankshaft speed and is used by the PCM to determine ignition timing and
timing for fuel injection of each cylinder as well as detecting engine misfire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair CKP Pulse Plate Replacement
1. Remove the front wheels. 2. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 3. Remove
the drive belt. 4. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its top dead center (TDC) mark lines up with the
pointer. 5. Remove the water pump pulley. 6. Remove the cylinder head cover. 7. Remove the
crankshaft pulley. 8. Remove the oil pan. 9. Support the engine with a jack and a wood block under
the engine block.
10. Remove the ground cable, then remove the side engine mount bracket. 11. Disconnect the
crankshaft position (CKP) sensor connector, then remove the harness clamp and the dipstick tube
mounting bolt. 12. Remove the chain case. 13. Remove the CKP pulse plate (A).
14. Install the CKP pulse plate. 15. Check the chain case oil seal for damage. If the oil seal is
damaged, replace the chain case oil seal. 16. Remove all of the old liquid gasket from the chain
case mating surfaces, bolt, and bolt holes. 17. Clean and dry the chain case mating surfaces. 18.
Apply liquid gasket, P/N 08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003 or 08718-0009, evenly to the
engine block mating surface of the chain case.
NOTE: ^
If you apply liquid gasket P/N 08718-0012, the component must be installed within 4 minutes.
^ If too much time has passed after applying the liquid gasket, remove the old liquid gasket and
residue, then reapply new liquid gasket.
19. Install the chain case. 20. Install the harness clamps and the dipstick tube mounting bolt, then
connect the CKP sensor connector. 21. Install the side engine mount bracket, then install the
ground cable. 22. Remove the jack and the wood block. 23. Install the oil pan. 24. Install the
crankshaft pulley. 25. Install the cylinder head cover. 26. Install the water pump pulley. 27. Install
the drive belt. 28. Install the engine undercover and the splash shield. 29. Install the front wheels.
30. Do the crankshaft (CKP) pattern clear/CKP pattern learn procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > CKP Pulse Plate Replacement > Page 4163
3. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal with a new O-ring (6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4171
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4172
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4174
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4175
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4176
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4177
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4178
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4179
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4180
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4181
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4185
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4187
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4188
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4189
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4190
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4191
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4192
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4193
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4194
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4195
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4196
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4197
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4198
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4199
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
8. Knock Sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Knock
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 4207
Knock Sensor
The knock control system adjusts the ignition timing to minimize knock.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Knock
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 4208
1. Remove the intake manifold. 2. Disconnect the knock sensor 1P connector (A).
3. Remove the knock sensor (B). 4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
Torque: ................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 18 N.m (1.8 kgf.m, 13 lbf.ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 4212
Spark Plug: Application and ID
Spark Plugs
NGK .....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. ILFR6J11K DENSO ..............................................................
...........................................................................................................................................
SK20HPR-L11
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 4213
1. Remove the spark plugs and inspect the electrodes and the ceramic insulator.
- Insufficient cooling
2. If the spark plug electrode is dirty or contaminated, clean the electrode with a plug cleaner.
NOTE: -
Do not use a wire brush or scrape the iridium electrode since this will damage the electrode.
- When using a sandblaster spark plug cleaner, do not clean for more than 20 seconds to avoid
damaging the electrode.
3. Do not adjust the gap of iridium tip plugs (A); replace the spark plug if the gap is out of
specification.
4. Replace the plug at the specified interval or if the center electrode is rounded (A). Use only the
listed sparkplugs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 4214
5. Apply a small amount of anti-seize compound to the plug threads, and screw the plugs into the
cylinder head, finger-tight. Torque them to 18 N.m
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT start clutch pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 4 and No. 8.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 4, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT start clutch pressure control
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection Start Clutch Pressure Control Calibration
Procedures
Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures whenever you do any of these actions: ^
Replace PCM
^ Reset PCM
^ Update PCM
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover, and go to
the A/T Mode Menu.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 4. Follow the HDS screen prompts in the Start Clutch
Feedback Learn (see the HDS Operator's manual).
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 5. Connect the HDS to the DLC, and follow the screen
prompts to short-circuit the SCS signal terminal using the tester menu. 6. Press the brake pedal,
and continue pressing the pedal until the calibration is completed. 7. Start the engine without load
condition, but turn the headlights on. The headlights must be on during calibration. 8. Shift the shift
lever to N, shift to D, S, then L, and return to N. Repeat this shifting pattern three times within 20
seconds after the engine is started. 9. Check that the D indicator comes on when the shift lever is
in N, then goes off in 1 minute.
10. If the D indicator blinks or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0), and restart the
11. Shift to D, and check that the D indicator comes on, then goes off. 12. If the D indicator blinks
or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), and restart the
13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to complete the procedure. 14. Test-drive the vehicle to
verify that a problem does not occur on the start clutch pressure control system.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Make sure
that the MIL does not come on and the D indicator does not blink. If the MIL comes on or the D
indicator blinks, check the fuel and
3. Start the engine without load (headlights, audio system, blower fan, rear window defogger, A/C,
etc.), and let it idle. 4. Check that the IMA charge gauge indicates no segments. If the IMA charge
gauge indicates any segments, hold the engine speed between 3,500
rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level gauge (BAT)
indicates at least three segments.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve Solenoid Test > Page 4228
5. Drive the vehicle with the shift lever in D until the vehicle speed reaches 37 mph (60 km/h), then
release the accelerator and decelerate without
pressing the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
6. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes, and make sure the engine does not stall or flare when
starting off.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 4229
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT start clutch pressure control valve
connector (A).
3. Remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve (B). 4. Check that the filter (C) is in good
condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Install a new CVT start clutch pressure control
valve with the dowel pins (D) and the separator plate (E) on the lower valve body (F). 6. Connect
the CVT start clutch pressure control valve connector. 7. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Fail Safe Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information >
Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the inhibitor solenoid resistance between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5
and body ground.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wire is
OK, replace the inhibitor solenoid. 5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to
solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5, and connect another jumper wire from the
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the inhibitor solenoid connector (A).
3. Remove the inhibitor solenoid (B). 4. Install a new inhibitor solenoid on the CVT driven pulley
pressure control valve. 5. Connect the inhibitor solenoid connector. 6. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component
Information > Diagrams
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 3 and No. 7.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 3, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 2 and No. 6.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 2, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Remove the solenoid harness clamp (A).
3. Disconnect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector (B). 4. Remove the seven
bolts, and remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve (C). The CVT start clutch pressure
control valve (D) can also be
removed.
5. Check that the filters (E) are in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 6. Install a
new CVT drive pulley pressure control valve with the dowel pins (F) and the separator plate (G),
and the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve with the dowel pins (H) and the separator plate (I) on the lower valve body (J).
7. Connect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector. 8. Install the solenoid harness
clamp. 9. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve Replacement > Page 4244
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve
connector (A) and the inhibitor solenoid connector (B).
3. Remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve (C), and remove the inhibitor solenoid (D)
from the CVT driven pulley pressure control
valve.
4. Check that the filter (E) is in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Replace the
0-rings (F) on the inhibitor solenoid, if necessary. 6. Install the inhibitor solenoid on a new CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve. 7. Install a new CVT driven pulley pressure control valve with
the dowel pins (G) and the separator plate (H) on the lower valve body (I). 8. Connect the CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve connector and the inhibitor solenoid connector. 9. Install the
lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4253
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4255
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4256
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4257
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4258
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4259
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4260
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4261
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4262
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4266
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information and Instructions > Page 4268
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4269
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4270
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4271
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4272
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4273
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4274
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4275
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4276
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4277
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4278
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4279
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4280
Circuit Diagram
A/T Gear Position Indicator Circuit Diagram
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during a
troubleshooting procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you are returning from the DLC circuit
troubleshooting, skip steps 5 to 6, and clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 9. Disconnect the
negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.
10. Remove the battery. 11. Remove the PCM cover (A).
12. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
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Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4291
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install a known-good PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
16. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 17. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 18. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 19. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 20. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 21. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in steps 6, clean the throttle body. 22. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 23. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 24. Enter the anti-theft code for
the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock
(on vehicles
without navigation).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch connector.
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK. If there is no continuity
between any terminals, go to step 5. 5. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end
of the selector control shaft (A).
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4301
6. If the measurement of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace the
transmission range switch. If the measurement is out of the
standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range switch
continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4302
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
Transmission Range Switch Replacement
1. Shift to N. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 3. Disconnect the
transmission range switch connector, and remove the control shaft cover (A).
4. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 5. Move the control shaft from the P position to the N
position by turning the selector control shaft using a 6.0 mm wrench.
NOTE: Do not use the selector control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the control shaft tips are
squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the selector control
shaft and the transmission range switch.
6. To set up a new transmission range switch (A), align the cutouts (B) on the rotary-frame with the
neutral positioning cutouts (C) on the
transmission range switch. Then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to
hold the transmission range switch in the A/T position.
NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to hold the transmission range switch
in the N position.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4303
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts (A) on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position.
Do not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector
securely.
10. Install the control shaft cover on the transmission range switch.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4304
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
12. Check that the engine starts in P and N, and does not start in any other shift lever position. 13.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 14. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or
apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is
supported securely. 15. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the
shift lever operation. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information
> Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT input shaft
(drive pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information
> Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4314
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Output Shaft (Driven Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT output shaft
(driven pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed
sensor (A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor in
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information
> Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4315
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Speed Sensor Replacement
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT speed sensor, then install the CVT speed sensor in the
transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector
securely. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, CVT >
Component Information > Locations
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software
Updates > Page 4327
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software
Updates > Page 4329
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-029 > May > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC
P0128 Set
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC
P0128 Set
09-029
Applies To: 2006-08 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2006-08 Civic Hybrid: MIL Comes On With DTC P0128
SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P0128 (cooling system malfunction).
PROBABLE CAUSE The PGM-FI software misinterprets sensor inputs as a cooling system
malfunction, causing DTC P0128 to be set. This DTC can also be caused by loose or corroded
terminals in ECT sensor 2 or its 2P connector.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. If needed, replace ECT sensor
2 and its wire harness.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
To avoid an incorrect repair that would not be covered under warranty, use the software version
listed above or a later version.
The updated PGM-FI software program ID and P/N is shown. If this, or a later program ID, is the
current Program ID displayed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-029 > May > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC
P0128 Set > Page 4335
1. Disconnect the 2P connector from EGI sensor 2. (The sensor is installed in the bottom of the
radiator, on the driver's side of the vehicle.)
2. Check for corrosion or looseness of the electrical terminals on ECT sensor 2 and its 2P
connector:
^ If terminals on the sensor are corroded or loose, but the terminals in the 2P connector are clean
and tight, replace ECT sensor 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the terminals in the 2P connector are loose or corroded, replace EGI sensor 2 and its wire
harness, then go to step 3.
3. Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/ Modules.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-009 > Feb > 09 > Engine Controls - Engine
Surge/Hesitation
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine Controls - Engine
Surge/Hesitation
09-009
February 6, 2009
Applies To: 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA362...8S000001 thru JHMFA362...8S011458
SYMPTOM
The engine surges at cruising speed or hesitates when you apply light throttle just above idle or at
cruising speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 09-009 > Feb > 09 > Engine Controls - Engine
Surge/Hesitation > Page 4340
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/ Modules.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-014 > Mar > 08 > Engine, A/T Controls - Harsh A/T
Engagement
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine, A/T Controls - Harsh A/T
Engagement
08-014
March 1, 2008
Applies To: 2007 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA362.85000001 thru
JHMFA362.8501 1458
SYMPTOM
There is a bump or shock from the transmission when the engine restarts from auto idle stop mode.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Under some conditions, excessive fluid pressure to the start clutch causes harsh transmission
engagement.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
Application Version V6.11.04 (or later) Database Update 06-FEB-2008 (or later)
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS software version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
The updated software program ID and P/N is shown below. If this, or a later program ID, is the
current program ID displayed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-014 > Mar > 08 > Engine, A/T Controls - Harsh A/T
Engagement > Page 4345
Update the PCM CVT software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/Modules.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 08-003 > Feb > 08 > A/T - Update PCM When Replacing
A/T
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest A/T - Update PCM When Replacing
A/T
08-003
BACKGROUND
Repeatedly shifting between R and D at high wheel speed when stuck in snow can cause
transmission damage. To help prevent this damage, update the PCM anytime you replace an NT.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Update the PGM and the NT systems of the PCM with the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System).
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS sofiware version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Make sure version 2.012.013 or later sofiware iN network CD is loaded into the iN master
terminal.
2. Update both the PGM and AT systems of the PCM with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin
01-023, Updathg Control Units/Modules.
3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). Use the HDS to clear any body
electrical codes that may have been set during the PCM update.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then to ON (II). Use the HDS to see if any body
electrical codes have returned.
^ If the codes have returned, do the appropriate troubleshooting procedure(s) in the 2006-2008
Civic Service Manual, then go to step 5.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
cycle twice).
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
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10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 4356
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 4358
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Computers/Controls -
Updating Control Units And Modules
01-023
(Supersedes 01-023, dated May 15, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
The procedures in this service bulletin are used and referenced in other service bulletins.
Most 2002 and later Hondas have reprogrammable control units/modules. To update (reprogram)
any of these control units/modules, you need the vehicle you're working on and one of these
systems:
*^MVCI unit with latest control module (CM) update software installed*
^ GNA600 gateway device and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed
^ Who to contact for questions or problems when using Honda-supplied updating equipment or the
iN.
- MVCI
- GNA600
- HDS Tablet
- HIM
^ Updating with the HDS Tablet and the HDS Pocket Tester
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4363
^ Updating with the HIM
- HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode
- HIM Self-Test
NOTE:
Whenever you install a new, reprogrammable control unit/module, check that it has the latest
software, and update it if needed.
Refer to the specific service bulletin for the symptom you are repairing.
For questions about the Honda-supplied updating equipment, call American Honda's Special Tools
hotline.
NOTE:
Updating for most control units/modules can be done with any of the following tools.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4364
*MVCI: (Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program)*
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4365
GNA600: (No longer available for purchase)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4366
HDS Tablet:
HDS Pocket Tester:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4367
HIM:
UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS
^ If you're updating a control module/unit on a new vehicle, make sure all its fuses were installed at
PDI.
^ To prevent control unit/module damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof, etc.) during the
update.
^ Make sure the HDS Tablet, the HDS Pocket Tester, or the iN workstation has the latest version of
HDS software. The HDS version number is on the
HDS start-up screen. To find the latest HDS software information on ISIS, select Search by
Vehicle, select Technical Library, expand the ServiceNews branch, select Keyword (All Models),
enter keywords HDS VERSION, then select the latest article.
NOTE:
The screen is from an iN workstation. The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar.
*^Make sure the Database Update listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin,
product update, iN message, etc.) is the same or earlier
than the ones listed on the Reprogramming screen of the MVCI (on the MVCI, select CM Update
Mode, then select Reprogramming), or on the
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4368
Updating Honda Control Modules screen on the HDS tablet, the HDS pocket tester, or the iN
workstation.
MVCI:*
iN Workstation:
NOTE:
*^If the Database Update listed in the service bulletin is later than that shown by the software,
please see the the procedures for software installation in
the following documents in Tool Information on ISIS (go to General Publications, then Tool
Information):
- Installation Instructions for HDS ( see PC Software for the GNA600, HIM or Pocket Tester ID)*
^ Do not connect an additional power supply to the updating equipment when it is connected to the
vehicle; power is supplied through the DLC.
^ To ensure that the control module/unit is not permanently damaged during updating, vedfy that
the vehicle's 12-volt battery is fully charged before
starthg an update.
NOTE:
If the vehicle's 12-volt battery drops below 10 volts during the update, the programming status bar
may go past 100 percent, or the updating tool may display an error message.
^ If you have a problem during an update (D4/ immobilizer indicator flashes, update tool freezes,
etc.), you can minimize the chances of damaging the
- Reconnect the updating tool to the vehicle's DLC, and retry the updating procedure.
Make sure you have the latest control module (CM) Update software loaded from your HDS PC to
your MVC I. For loading instructions and other
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details, refer to the MVCI User Guide on ISIS. The Database Update version appears when you
select Reprogramming, then press ENTER.
1. Connect the DLC cable to the MVCI and to the vehicle's DLC.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). The MVCI automatically boots up.
3. Press the ENTER button on the MVCI to see the User Config menu. Select CM Update Mode.
NOTE:
Setting 1-
For more information on these settings, refer to the MVCI User Guide.
6. Wait for the MVCI to check the vehicle for reprogrammable systems. This may take up to 90
seconds.
7. If there are multiple reprogrammable systems that need to be updated, select the applicable
system. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit.
8. The current program ID, the recommended update, and other details appear. Press ENTER to
continue, or press ESC to exit.
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9. Wait for the MVCI to copy the data for updating the vehicle.
10. After the MVCI has copied the files, a confirmation screen appears. Press ENTER to update
the control unit/module, or press ESC to exit.
12. After the MVCI finishes updating the control uniti module, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0)
when directed by the MVCI.
13. Turn the ignition switch back to ON (II) within 60 seconds to complete the updating procedure.
NOTE:
The MVCI has a countdown timer. If you do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II) within 60
seconds, the MVCI sets an error code.
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14. After finishing the updating procedure, the MVCI gives you the option of updating the same
system on another vehicle. For more information on
updating several vehicles, see the MVCI User Guide.
15. If an error occurs during the updating procedure, an error message appears. Keep the ignition
switch in ON (II). Press ENTER to display the error
code. Refer to the CM Update Error Code Table in the MVCI User Guide for more information
about the code and its solutions.*
NOTE:
For more information on the GNA6OO, refer to the GNA600 User's Guide. This guide is on ISIS,
under the Tool Information heading.
Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Use Pass-Thru mode when the GNA6OO can be connected
to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Use Storage mode when the GNA6OO
cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
3. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Click on the
Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-th ru-Mode.
5. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Click on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control uniti module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control uniti mod ule has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the ISIS publication Installation
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to GNA600.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then click on Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the GNA600 to the vehicle. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's
DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and
7. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Connect the
power supply unit and power supply cord to the
GNA600. The GNA600 does a self-check and, after about 30 seconds, its yellow No.1 and green
No.2 LEDs flash.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
10. Disconnect the GNA600 from the USB PC interface cable, then connect the trigger switch
adapter block (yellow) and the trigger switch to the
GNA600 as shown below. (The DLC cable should still be connected to the GNA600.)
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA600 stays on.
Press and release the trigger switch button.
13. The yellow No.1 LED blinks, and the green No.2 LED stays on. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
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NOTE:
To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update.
14. When the No.1 LED stays on and the No.2 LED goes off, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the No.1 and No.2 LEDs stay on, the control
unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. To do the
same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps
11 thru 16.
UPDATING WITH THE HDS TABLET AND THE HDS POCKET TESTER
NOTE:
This procedure explains how to update with the HDS tablet. Updating with the HDS pocket tester is
similar, but the user interface is modified to fit its smaller screen.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC sofiware onto your HDS tablet or HDS pocket tester.
Refer to the instructions included with the HDS
Installation Disc.
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
4. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
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5. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HDS tablet.
6. In the HDS Tablet Programming screen, click on the check mark after programming is
completed.
7. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark.
NOTE:
To avoid permanent control module damage, do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) during the
update.
8. When updating is complete, follow the screen prompts to turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0),
and then to ON (II). To update another system, return
to the Updating Honda Control Modules screen by clicking on the exit button on the right side of the
screen.
Two updating modes can be used with the HIM: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Pass-Thru
mode is used when the HIM can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same
time. Storage mode is used when the HIM cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the
vehicle at the same time.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-thru-Mode.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Click
on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4381
NOTE:
Update the systems one at a time.
7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then
click on the check mark.
8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HIM.
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9. Click on the check mark to begin the control unit/module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control unit/module has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
NOTE:
If the red No.3 on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to HIM.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then select Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the HIM to the vehicle, and connect it to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Turn
the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect
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the HIM from the vehicle.
7. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. Connect the power supply
unit and power supply cord to the HIM. After
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the HIM.
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on.
Press and release the ENTER button on the HIM.
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13. The green No.1 LED stays on, and the yellow No. 2 LED blinks. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
NOTE:
14. When the yellow No.2 LED stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the green No.1 and the yellow No.2 LEDs stay on, the
control unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HIM from the vehicle. To do the same
update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru
16.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM came on or was flashing during the update, do this:
1. Leave the ignition switch in ON (II) while you disconnect the HIM from the vehicle's DLC.
2. If not already done, load the latest HDS sofiware onto the iN workstation.
3. Connect the HIM to the iN workstation. Connect the small end of the PC interface cable to the
PC port on the HIM.
4. If not already done, connect the PC end of the blue PC interface cable to the 9P serial port on
the iN workstation.
5. Connect the 110 VACIl 2 VDC power supply to the HIM and to a wall outlet.
7. On the right side of the screen, click on the view error button.
8. Click on View Error at the bottom of the screen to display the problem encountered while the
HIM was connected to the vehicle.
^ If you get a Code 40 error message (usually caused by a communication error between the HIM
and the workstation), do this:
- Move the blue PC interface cable to another communication port on the back of the computer.
- If one of the communication ports on the back of the computer has another cable connected to it,
disconnect that cable, leave it disconnected during the HIM procedure, and connect the blue PC
interface cable to that port.
- Connect the HIM to another computer. (Some iN workstations require an internal communication
port setup procedure. For help, call the iN Support Center)
^ If you get a Code 50 error message (usually caused by a communications error between the HIM
and the vehicle's DLC), do this:
- Diagnose and clear any DTCs. (The control unit/module must be free of DTCs before you can
update it.)
- Make sure there's a good connection between the HIM and the DLC.
- Retry the update using the procedures in this service bulletin or on the back of the HIM.
HIM Self-Test
If you suspect there's a problem with the HIM, review the instructions in this service bulletin to
make sure you are using it correctly. If you still think there's a problem, do this self-test:
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1. If not already done, load the latest HDS software onto the iN workstation.
6. If the self-test indicates a problem with the HIM, call the Special Tools hotline for repair
instructions.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
09-029 > May > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0128 Set
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL
ON/DTC P0128 Set
09-029
Applies To: 2006-08 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2006-08 Civic Hybrid: MIL Comes On With DTC P0128
SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P0128 (cooling system malfunction).
PROBABLE CAUSE The PGM-FI software misinterprets sensor inputs as a cooling system
malfunction, causing DTC P0128 to be set. This DTC can also be caused by loose or corroded
terminals in ECT sensor 2 or its 2P connector.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. If needed, replace ECT sensor
2 and its wire harness.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
To avoid an incorrect repair that would not be covered under warranty, use the software version
listed above or a later version.
The updated PGM-FI software program ID and P/N is shown. If this, or a later program ID, is the
current Program ID displayed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
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09-029 > May > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0128 Set > Page 4390
1. Disconnect the 2P connector from EGI sensor 2. (The sensor is installed in the bottom of the
radiator, on the driver's side of the vehicle.)
2. Check for corrosion or looseness of the electrical terminals on ECT sensor 2 and its 2P
connector:
^ If terminals on the sensor are corroded or loose, but the terminals in the 2P connector are clean
and tight, replace ECT sensor 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the terminals in the 2P connector are loose or corroded, replace EGI sensor 2 and its wire
harness, then go to step 3.
3. Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/ Modules.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
09-009 > Feb > 09 > Engine Controls - Engine Surge/Hesitation
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls -
Engine Surge/Hesitation
09-009
February 6, 2009
Applies To: 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA362...8S000001 thru JHMFA362...8S011458
SYMPTOM
The engine surges at cruising speed or hesitates when you apply light throttle just above idle or at
cruising speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
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SOFTWARE INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/ Modules.
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08-014 > Mar > 08 > Engine, A/T Controls - Harsh A/T Engagement
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T Controls -
Harsh A/T Engagement
08-014
March 1, 2008
Applies To: 2007 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA362.85000001 thru
JHMFA362.8501 1458
SYMPTOM
There is a bump or shock from the transmission when the engine restarts from auto idle stop mode.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Under some conditions, excessive fluid pressure to the start clutch causes harsh transmission
engagement.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
Application Version V6.11.04 (or later) Database Update 06-FEB-2008 (or later)
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS software version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
The updated software program ID and P/N is shown below. If this, or a later program ID, is the
current program ID displayed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
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Update the PCM CVT software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/Modules.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
08-003 > Feb > 08 > A/T - Update PCM When Replacing A/T
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Update PCM
When Replacing A/T
08-003
BACKGROUND
Repeatedly shifting between R and D at high wheel speed when stuck in snow can cause
transmission damage. To help prevent this damage, update the PCM anytime you replace an NT.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Update the PGM and the NT systems of the PCM with the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System).
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS sofiware version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Make sure version 2.012.013 or later sofiware iN network CD is loaded into the iN master
terminal.
2. Update both the PGM and AT systems of the PCM with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin
01-023, Updathg Control Units/Modules.
3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). Use the HDS to clear any body
electrical codes that may have been set during the PCM update.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then to ON (II). Use the HDS to see if any body
electrical codes have returned.
^ If the codes have returned, do the appropriate troubleshooting procedure(s) in the 2006-2008
Civic Service Manual, then go to step 5.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
cycle twice).
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Computers/Controls -
Updating Control Units And Modules
01-023
(Supersedes 01-023, dated May 15, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
The procedures in this service bulletin are used and referenced in other service bulletins.
Most 2002 and later Hondas have reprogrammable control units/modules. To update (reprogram)
any of these control units/modules, you need the vehicle you're working on and one of these
systems:
*^MVCI unit with latest control module (CM) update software installed*
^ GNA600 gateway device and an iN workstation with the latest HDS software installed
^ Who to contact for questions or problems when using Honda-supplied updating equipment or the
iN.
- MVCI
- GNA600
- HDS Tablet
- HIM
^ Updating with the HDS Tablet and the HDS Pocket Tester
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^ Updating with the HIM
- HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode
- HIM Self-Test
NOTE:
Whenever you install a new, reprogrammable control unit/module, check that it has the latest
software, and update it if needed.
Refer to the specific service bulletin for the symptom you are repairing.
For questions about the Honda-supplied updating equipment, call American Honda's Special Tools
hotline.
NOTE:
Updating for most control units/modules can be done with any of the following tools.
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*MVCI: (Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program)*
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GNA600: (No longer available for purchase)
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HDS Tablet:
HDS Pocket Tester:
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HIM:
UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS
^ If you're updating a control module/unit on a new vehicle, make sure all its fuses were installed at
PDI.
^ To prevent control unit/module damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof, etc.) during the
update.
^ Make sure the HDS Tablet, the HDS Pocket Tester, or the iN workstation has the latest version of
HDS software. The HDS version number is on the
HDS start-up screen. To find the latest HDS software information on ISIS, select Search by
Vehicle, select Technical Library, expand the ServiceNews branch, select Keyword (All Models),
enter keywords HDS VERSION, then select the latest article.
NOTE:
The screen is from an iN workstation. The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar.
*^Make sure the Database Update listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin,
product update, iN message, etc.) is the same or earlier
than the ones listed on the Reprogramming screen of the MVCI (on the MVCI, select CM Update
Mode, then select Reprogramming), or on the
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Updating Honda Control Modules screen on the HDS tablet, the HDS pocket tester, or the iN
workstation.
MVCI:*
iN Workstation:
NOTE:
*^If the Database Update listed in the service bulletin is later than that shown by the software,
please see the the procedures for software installation in
the following documents in Tool Information on ISIS (go to General Publications, then Tool
Information):
- Installation Instructions for HDS ( see PC Software for the GNA600, HIM or Pocket Tester ID)*
^ Do not connect an additional power supply to the updating equipment when it is connected to the
vehicle; power is supplied through the DLC.
^ To ensure that the control module/unit is not permanently damaged during updating, vedfy that
the vehicle's 12-volt battery is fully charged before
starthg an update.
NOTE:
If the vehicle's 12-volt battery drops below 10 volts during the update, the programming status bar
may go past 100 percent, or the updating tool may display an error message.
^ If you have a problem during an update (D4/ immobilizer indicator flashes, update tool freezes,
etc.), you can minimize the chances of damaging the
- Reconnect the updating tool to the vehicle's DLC, and retry the updating procedure.
Make sure you have the latest control module (CM) Update software loaded from your HDS PC to
your MVC I. For loading instructions and other
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details, refer to the MVCI User Guide on ISIS. The Database Update version appears when you
select Reprogramming, then press ENTER.
1. Connect the DLC cable to the MVCI and to the vehicle's DLC.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). The MVCI automatically boots up.
3. Press the ENTER button on the MVCI to see the User Config menu. Select CM Update Mode.
NOTE:
Setting 1-
For more information on these settings, refer to the MVCI User Guide.
6. Wait for the MVCI to check the vehicle for reprogrammable systems. This may take up to 90
seconds.
7. If there are multiple reprogrammable systems that need to be updated, select the applicable
system. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit.
8. The current program ID, the recommended update, and other details appear. Press ENTER to
continue, or press ESC to exit.
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9. Wait for the MVCI to copy the data for updating the vehicle.
10. After the MVCI has copied the files, a confirmation screen appears. Press ENTER to update
the control unit/module, or press ESC to exit.
12. After the MVCI finishes updating the control uniti module, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0)
when directed by the MVCI.
13. Turn the ignition switch back to ON (II) within 60 seconds to complete the updating procedure.
NOTE:
The MVCI has a countdown timer. If you do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II) within 60
seconds, the MVCI sets an error code.
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14. After finishing the updating procedure, the MVCI gives you the option of updating the same
system on another vehicle. For more information on
updating several vehicles, see the MVCI User Guide.
15. If an error occurs during the updating procedure, an error message appears. Keep the ignition
switch in ON (II). Press ENTER to display the error
code. Refer to the CM Update Error Code Table in the MVCI User Guide for more information
about the code and its solutions.*
NOTE:
For more information on the GNA6OO, refer to the GNA600 User's Guide. This guide is on ISIS,
under the Tool Information heading.
Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Use Pass-Thru mode when the GNA6OO can be connected
to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Use Storage mode when the GNA6OO
cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
3. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Click on the
Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-th ru-Mode.
5. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Click on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control uniti module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control uniti mod ule has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the ISIS publication Installation
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to GNA600.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then click on Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the GNA600 to the vehicle. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's
DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and
7. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Connect the
power supply unit and power supply cord to the
GNA600. The GNA600 does a self-check and, after about 30 seconds, its yellow No.1 and green
No.2 LEDs flash.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
10. Disconnect the GNA600 from the USB PC interface cable, then connect the trigger switch
adapter block (yellow) and the trigger switch to the
GNA600 as shown below. (The DLC cable should still be connected to the GNA600.)
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA600 stays on.
Press and release the trigger switch button.
13. The yellow No.1 LED blinks, and the green No.2 LED stays on. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4425
NOTE:
To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update.
14. When the No.1 LED stays on and the No.2 LED goes off, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the No.1 and No.2 LEDs stay on, the control
unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. To do the
same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps
11 thru 16.
UPDATING WITH THE HDS TABLET AND THE HDS POCKET TESTER
NOTE:
This procedure explains how to update with the HDS tablet. Updating with the HDS pocket tester is
similar, but the user interface is modified to fit its smaller screen.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC sofiware onto your HDS tablet or HDS pocket tester.
Refer to the instructions included with the HDS
Installation Disc.
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
4. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4427
5. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HDS tablet.
6. In the HDS Tablet Programming screen, click on the check mark after programming is
completed.
7. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark.
NOTE:
To avoid permanent control module damage, do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) during the
update.
8. When updating is complete, follow the screen prompts to turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0),
and then to ON (II). To update another system, return
to the Updating Honda Control Modules screen by clicking on the exit button on the right side of the
screen.
Two updating modes can be used with the HIM: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Pass-Thru
mode is used when the HIM can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same
time. Storage mode is used when the HIM cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the
vehicle at the same time.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-thru-Mode.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Click
on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4429
NOTE:
Update the systems one at a time.
7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then
click on the check mark.
8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HIM.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4430
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control unit/module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control unit/module has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
NOTE:
If the red No.3 on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to HIM.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then select Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the HIM to the vehicle, and connect it to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Turn
the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4431
the HIM from the vehicle.
7. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. Connect the power supply
unit and power supply cord to the HIM. After
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the HIM.
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on.
Press and release the ENTER button on the HIM.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4432
13. The green No.1 LED stays on, and the yellow No. 2 LED blinks. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
NOTE:
14. When the yellow No.2 LED stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the green No.1 and the yellow No.2 LEDs stay on, the
control unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HIM from the vehicle. To do the same
update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru
16.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM came on or was flashing during the update, do this:
1. Leave the ignition switch in ON (II) while you disconnect the HIM from the vehicle's DLC.
2. If not already done, load the latest HDS sofiware onto the iN workstation.
3. Connect the HIM to the iN workstation. Connect the small end of the PC interface cable to the
PC port on the HIM.
4. If not already done, connect the PC end of the blue PC interface cable to the 9P serial port on
the iN workstation.
5. Connect the 110 VACIl 2 VDC power supply to the HIM and to a wall outlet.
7. On the right side of the screen, click on the view error button.
8. Click on View Error at the bottom of the screen to display the problem encountered while the
HIM was connected to the vehicle.
^ If you get a Code 40 error message (usually caused by a communication error between the HIM
and the workstation), do this:
- Move the blue PC interface cable to another communication port on the back of the computer.
- If one of the communication ports on the back of the computer has another cable connected to it,
disconnect that cable, leave it disconnected during the HIM procedure, and connect the blue PC
interface cable to that port.
- Connect the HIM to another computer. (Some iN workstations require an internal communication
port setup procedure. For help, call the iN Support Center)
^ If you get a Code 50 error message (usually caused by a communications error between the HIM
and the vehicle's DLC), do this:
- Diagnose and clear any DTCs. (The control unit/module must be free of DTCs before you can
update it.)
- Make sure there's a good connection between the HIM and the DLC.
- Retry the update using the procedures in this service bulletin or on the back of the HIM.
HIM Self-Test
If you suspect there's a problem with the HIM, review the instructions in this service bulletin to
make sure you are using it correctly. If you still think there's a problem, do this self-test:
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4433
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS software onto the iN workstation.
6. If the self-test indicates a problem with the HIM, call the Special Tools hotline for repair
instructions.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
09-029 > May > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0128 Set
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - MIL
ON/DTC P0128 Set
09-029
Applies To: 2006-08 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2006-08 Civic Hybrid: MIL Comes On With DTC P0128
SYMPTOM The MIL comes on with DTC P0128 (cooling system malfunction).
PROBABLE CAUSE The PGM-FI software misinterprets sensor inputs as a cooling system
malfunction, causing DTC P0128 to be set. This DTC can also be caused by loose or corroded
terminals in ECT sensor 2 or its 2P connector.
CORRECTIVE ACTION Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. If needed, replace ECT sensor
2 and its wire harness.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
To avoid an incorrect repair that would not be covered under warranty, use the software version
listed above or a later version.
The updated PGM-FI software program ID and P/N is shown. If this, or a later program ID, is the
current Program ID displayed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
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09-029 > May > 09 > Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P0128 Set > Page 4438
1. Disconnect the 2P connector from EGI sensor 2. (The sensor is installed in the bottom of the
radiator, on the driver's side of the vehicle.)
2. Check for corrosion or looseness of the electrical terminals on ECT sensor 2 and its 2P
connector:
^ If terminals on the sensor are corroded or loose, but the terminals in the 2P connector are clean
and tight, replace ECT sensor 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the terminals in the 2P connector are loose or corroded, replace EGI sensor 2 and its wire
harness, then go to step 3.
3. Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/ Modules.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
09-009 > Feb > 09 > Engine Controls - Engine Surge/Hesitation
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls -
Engine Surge/Hesitation
09-009
February 6, 2009
Applies To: 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA362...8S000001 thru JHMFA362...8S011458
SYMPTOM
The engine surges at cruising speed or hesitates when you apply light throttle just above idle or at
cruising speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
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09-009 > Feb > 09 > Engine Controls - Engine Surge/Hesitation > Page 4443
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
Update the PGM-FI software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/ Modules.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
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08-014 > Mar > 08 > Engine, A/T Controls - Harsh A/T Engagement
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T Controls -
Harsh A/T Engagement
08-014
March 1, 2008
Applies To: 2007 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA362.85000001 thru
JHMFA362.8501 1458
SYMPTOM
There is a bump or shock from the transmission when the engine restarts from auto idle stop mode.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Under some conditions, excessive fluid pressure to the start clutch causes harsh transmission
engagement.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
Application Version V6.11.04 (or later) Database Update 06-FEB-2008 (or later)
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS software version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
The updated software program ID and P/N is shown below. If this, or a later program ID, is the
current program ID displayed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
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08-014 > Mar > 08 > Engine, A/T Controls - Harsh A/T Engagement > Page 4448
Update the PCM CVT software with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin 01-023, Updating Control
Units/Modules.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
08-003 > Feb > 08 > A/T - Update PCM When Replacing A/T
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Update PCM
When Replacing A/T
08-003
BACKGROUND
Repeatedly shifting between R and D at high wheel speed when stuck in snow can cause
transmission damage. To help prevent this damage, update the PCM anytime you replace an NT.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Update the PGM and the NT systems of the PCM with the HDS (Honda Diagnostic System).
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
NOTE:
If you do not use the correct HDS sofiware version, the HDS may incorrectly indicate that the
vehicle does not need an update.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
1. Make sure version 2.012.013 or later sofiware iN network CD is loaded into the iN master
terminal.
2. Update both the PGM and AT systems of the PCM with the HDS. Refer to Service Bulletin
01-023, Updathg Control Units/Modules.
3. Connect the HDS to the vehicle's DLC (data link connector). Use the HDS to clear any body
electrical codes that may have been set during the PCM update.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and then to ON (II). Use the HDS to see if any body
electrical codes have returned.
^ If the codes have returned, do the appropriate troubleshooting procedure(s) in the 2006-2008
Civic Service Manual, then go to step 5.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
cycle twice).
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
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10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
Technical Service Bulletin # 10-034 Date: 110201
Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates
10-034
February 1, 2011
Product Update: New Software to Help Prevent IMA Battery Deterioration (Supersedes 10-034,
dated December 1, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE INFORMATION, a reference to more IMA software and hardware information
was added.*
BACKGROUND
American Honda is announcing a product update to help prevent IMA battery deterioration.
Frequent stop-and-go driving with NC use, especially during warm weather, can keep the IMA
battery in a low state-of-charge (SOC). Over time, this may cause battery deterioration and
eventual failure.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Owners of affected vehicles will be sent a notification of this product update. An example of the
customer notification is at the end of this service bulletin.
In addition, check for a punch mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN. A
punch mark in that location means this product update has already been completed.
Some of the vehicles affected by this product update may be in your used vehicle inventory. These
vehicles must be updated before they are sold or leased. To see if a vehicle is affected by this
campaign, do a VIN status inquiry before selling it or returning it to a service customer.
Should an unrepaired vehicle that was in inventory, or that came in for service after this service
bulletin was issued, cause an injury or property damage because of the campaigned item, the
dealership will be solely responsible to the damaged party, and will be required to defend and
indemnify American Honda for any resulting claims.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
NOTE:
If any system indicator lights indicate a problem when the vehicle arrives, troubleshoot and repair
as necessary before doing this product update.
Update the PGM-FI software and the IMA battery software with the HDS. Then, if needed, update
the A/T (CVT) software.
NOTE:
This software update is needed even if the vehicle was repaired using Service Bulletin 09-058,
Low-Charged IMA Battery Causes Low Power When Accelerating As with the previous software
update, the new software increases the IMA battery rate of charge, which helps to prevent early
battery deterioration.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The updated PGM-FI, IMA battery, and A/T (CVT) software program IDs and P/Ns are shown
below. If the HDS is loaded with the latest software, and
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10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 4459
it displays No Update Needed during the update, the software for this service bulletin is already
installed.
NOTE:
* ^ When using HDS software version 2.024.007 or later, with a CM update of 19-NOV-10 or later,
you must input a three-character code when updating the IMA battery software. For more
information and a list of codes, refer to Service Bulletin 10-083, IMA Battery Software and
Hardware Updates.*
^ An update may be available for the IMA motor system, but it is not needed for this product
update.
NOTE:
This product update ends on July 30, 2013.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
After you do the software update(s), the IMA system will have the following differences. All of them
are normal operating characteristics:
^ When at an auto idle stop, the engine restarts sooner. It also now restarts with only two bars
displayed on the IMA battery level gauge.
^ Even with up to four bars displayed on the IMA battery level gauge, auto idle stop may not occur.
^ The IMA system reserves battery power to ensure enough power is available to start the vehicle
from a stop and for initial acceleration. This reduces the IMA assist as the vehicle speed increases.
This change increases the battery's stored energy and overall performance.
^ The IMA battery level gauge more accurately indicates the battery's state-of-charge. Customers
will also notice that the level bars stay in the middle of the gauge much longer.
1. Use the HDS to update the PGM-FI software. If needed, also update the IMA battery software
and the A/T (CVT) software. For updating
NOTE:
Three DTCs may be stored after the software is installed. These DTCs can be erased only after all
updates (PGM-FI, A/T (CVT), and IMA battery) are completed. For more information on the three
DTCs, refer to Service Bulletin 09-026, 2006-09 Civic Hybrid, 2010 Insight New DTCs U0301,
U0302, and U0312.
^ Make sure all electrical accessories (A/C, radio, lights, etc.) are off.
^ Start the engine, and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature (the cooling fans
have cycled twice).
4. If you updated the CVT software, select START CLUTCH FEEDBACK LEARN in the HDS, and
follow the screen prompts to calibrate the start
5. If needed, use the HDS to clear all DTCs from all systems.
6. Center-punch a completion mark below the fifth character of the engine compartment VIN:
^ Slide open the FRAME NUMBER door on the center cowl cover.
Disclaimer
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10-034 > Feb > 11 > Campaign - IMA Battery Deterioration Software Updates > Page 4461
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4466
^ Updating with the HIM
- HIM Updating in Pass-Thru Mode
- HIM Self-Test
NOTE:
Whenever you install a new, reprogrammable control unit/module, check that it has the latest
software, and update it if needed.
Refer to the specific service bulletin for the symptom you are repairing.
For questions about the Honda-supplied updating equipment, call American Honda's Special Tools
hotline.
NOTE:
Updating for most control units/modules can be done with any of the following tools.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4467
*MVCI: (Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program)*
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4468
GNA600: (No longer available for purchase)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4469
HDS Tablet:
HDS Pocket Tester:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4470
HIM:
UPDATING TIPS AND PRECAUTIONS
^ If you're updating a control module/unit on a new vehicle, make sure all its fuses were installed at
PDI.
^ To prevent control unit/module damage, do not operate anything electrical (audio system, brakes,
A/C, power windows, moonroof, etc.) during the
update.
^ Make sure the HDS Tablet, the HDS Pocket Tester, or the iN workstation has the latest version of
HDS software. The HDS version number is on the
HDS start-up screen. To find the latest HDS software information on ISIS, select Search by
Vehicle, select Technical Library, expand the ServiceNews branch, select Keyword (All Models),
enter keywords HDS VERSION, then select the latest article.
NOTE:
The screen is from an iN workstation. The HDS tablet and pocket tester screens are similar.
*^Make sure the Database Update listed in a Honda service communication (service bulletin,
product update, iN message, etc.) is the same or earlier
than the ones listed on the Reprogramming screen of the MVCI (on the MVCI, select CM Update
Mode, then select Reprogramming), or on the
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4471
Updating Honda Control Modules screen on the HDS tablet, the HDS pocket tester, or the iN
workstation.
MVCI:*
iN Workstation:
NOTE:
*^If the Database Update listed in the service bulletin is later than that shown by the software,
please see the the procedures for software installation in
the following documents in Tool Information on ISIS (go to General Publications, then Tool
Information):
- Installation Instructions for HDS ( see PC Software for the GNA600, HIM or Pocket Tester ID)*
^ Do not connect an additional power supply to the updating equipment when it is connected to the
vehicle; power is supplied through the DLC.
^ To ensure that the control module/unit is not permanently damaged during updating, vedfy that
the vehicle's 12-volt battery is fully charged before
starthg an update.
NOTE:
If the vehicle's 12-volt battery drops below 10 volts during the update, the programming status bar
may go past 100 percent, or the updating tool may display an error message.
^ If you have a problem during an update (D4/ immobilizer indicator flashes, update tool freezes,
etc.), you can minimize the chances of damaging the
- Reconnect the updating tool to the vehicle's DLC, and retry the updating procedure.
Make sure you have the latest control module (CM) Update software loaded from your HDS PC to
your MVC I. For loading instructions and other
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4472
details, refer to the MVCI User Guide on ISIS. The Database Update version appears when you
select Reprogramming, then press ENTER.
1. Connect the DLC cable to the MVCI and to the vehicle's DLC.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). The MVCI automatically boots up.
3. Press the ENTER button on the MVCI to see the User Config menu. Select CM Update Mode.
NOTE:
Setting 1-
For more information on these settings, refer to the MVCI User Guide.
6. Wait for the MVCI to check the vehicle for reprogrammable systems. This may take up to 90
seconds.
7. If there are multiple reprogrammable systems that need to be updated, select the applicable
system. Press ENTER to continue, or press ESC to exit.
8. The current program ID, the recommended update, and other details appear. Press ENTER to
continue, or press ESC to exit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4474
9. Wait for the MVCI to copy the data for updating the vehicle.
10. After the MVCI has copied the files, a confirmation screen appears. Press ENTER to update
the control unit/module, or press ESC to exit.
12. After the MVCI finishes updating the control uniti module, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0)
when directed by the MVCI.
13. Turn the ignition switch back to ON (II) within 60 seconds to complete the updating procedure.
NOTE:
The MVCI has a countdown timer. If you do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II) within 60
seconds, the MVCI sets an error code.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4475
14. After finishing the updating procedure, the MVCI gives you the option of updating the same
system on another vehicle. For more information on
updating several vehicles, see the MVCI User Guide.
15. If an error occurs during the updating procedure, an error message appears. Keep the ignition
switch in ON (II). Press ENTER to display the error
code. Refer to the CM Update Error Code Table in the MVCI User Guide for more information
about the code and its solutions.*
NOTE:
For more information on the GNA6OO, refer to the GNA600 User's Guide. This guide is on ISIS,
under the Tool Information heading.
Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Use Pass-Thru mode when the GNA6OO can be connected
to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time. Use Storage mode when the GNA6OO
cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the vehicle at the same time.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
3. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Click on the
Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-th ru-Mode.
5. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Click on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control uniti module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control uniti mod ule has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the ISIS publication Installation
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the Tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to GNA600.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then click on Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the GNA600 to the vehicle. Connect the DLC cable to the GNA600 and to the vehicle's
DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA6OO stays on.
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and
7. Connect the USB PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the GNA6OO. Connect the
power supply unit and power supply cord to the
GNA600. The GNA600 does a self-check and, after about 30 seconds, its yellow No.1 and green
No.2 LEDs flash.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the GNA600.
10. Disconnect the GNA600 from the USB PC interface cable, then connect the trigger switch
adapter block (yellow) and the trigger switch to the
GNA600 as shown below. (The DLC cable should still be connected to the GNA600.)
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.2 LED on the GNA600 stays on.
Press and release the trigger switch button.
13. The yellow No.1 LED blinks, and the green No.2 LED stays on. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4480
NOTE:
To avoid control unit/module damage, do not interrupt the update.
14. When the No.1 LED stays on and the No.2 LED goes off, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the No.1 and No.2 LEDs stay on, the control
unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the DLC cable from the vehicle. To do the
same update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps
11 thru 16.
UPDATING WITH THE HDS TABLET AND THE HDS POCKET TESTER
NOTE:
This procedure explains how to update with the HDS tablet. Updating with the HDS pocket tester is
similar, but the user interface is modified to fit its smaller screen.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC sofiware onto your HDS tablet or HDS pocket tester.
Refer to the instructions included with the HDS
Installation Disc.
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
4. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4482
5. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HDS tablet.
6. In the HDS Tablet Programming screen, click on the check mark after programming is
completed.
7. In the Updating Honda Control Modules screen, click on the check mark.
NOTE:
To avoid permanent control module damage, do not turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) during the
update.
8. When updating is complete, follow the screen prompts to turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0),
and then to ON (II). To update another system, return
to the Updating Honda Control Modules screen by clicking on the exit button on the right side of the
screen.
Two updating modes can be used with the HIM: Pass-Thru mode and Storage mode. Pass-Thru
mode is used when the HIM can be connected to an iN workstation and the vehicle at the same
time. Storage mode is used when the HIM cannot be connected to the iN workstation and the
vehicle at the same time.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest software is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, and click on Pass-thru-Mode.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Click
on the check mark to continue.
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4484
NOTE:
Update the systems one at a time.
7. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are for the vehicle you are updating, then
click on the check mark.
8. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update sofiware loads the program file onto the HIM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4485
9. Click on the check mark to begin the control unit/module update.
NOTE:
10. Within 60 seconds of update completion, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and then back to
ON (II).
11. Once the software verifies that the control unit/module has been successfully updated, click on
Yes to update another identical vehicle, or click on
NOTE:
If the red No.3 on the HIM comes on or flashes during the update, go to Diagnosing HIM Error
Codes.
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS PC software onto your iN workstation. For loading
instructions, refer to the Tool Information publication
NOTE:
If the latest sofiware is not loaded and you do a control unit/module update, the software may
indicate the vehicle has the latest update when it doesn't. Updates not done with the latest software
are not covered under warranty.
3. Click on the tools button on the right side of the screen, and make sure the interface device is
set to HIM.
4. Return to the Updating Honda Control Modules main screen, then select Storage Mode and
follow the on-screen instructions.
5. Take the HIM to the vehicle, and connect it to the vehicle's DLC.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on. Turn
the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4486
the HIM from the vehicle.
7. Connect the PC interface cable to the iN workstation and to the HIM. Connect the power supply
unit and power supply cord to the HIM. After
Each updatable vehicle system is checked to make sure it is current. Any systems needing an
update are listed on the screen. Highlight the system you want to update, then click on the check
mark to continue.
NOTE:
8. Verify that the Program ID and the Program Part No. are correct, then click on the check mark.
9. Confirm the control module update by Program ID and Program Part No. Make sure this
corresponds with any information provided in the service
bulletin for the update you are doing. Click on Yes to continue. Within a few seconds, the CM
Update software loads the program file onto the HIM.
12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait until the green No.1 LED on the HIM stays on.
Press and release the ENTER button on the HIM.
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4487
13. The green No.1 LED stays on, and the yellow No. 2 LED blinks. This indicates that the control
uniti module is being updated.
NOTE:
14. When the yellow No.2 LED stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
15. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). When the green No.1 and the yellow No.2 LEDs stay on, the
control unit/module is updated.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and disconnect the HIM from the vehicle. To do the same
update on an identical vehicle, repeat steps 11 thru
16.
If the red No.3 LED on the HIM came on or was flashing during the update, do this:
1. Leave the ignition switch in ON (II) while you disconnect the HIM from the vehicle's DLC.
2. If not already done, load the latest HDS sofiware onto the iN workstation.
3. Connect the HIM to the iN workstation. Connect the small end of the PC interface cable to the
PC port on the HIM.
4. If not already done, connect the PC end of the blue PC interface cable to the 9P serial port on
the iN workstation.
5. Connect the 110 VACIl 2 VDC power supply to the HIM and to a wall outlet.
7. On the right side of the screen, click on the view error button.
8. Click on View Error at the bottom of the screen to display the problem encountered while the
HIM was connected to the vehicle.
^ If you get a Code 40 error message (usually caused by a communication error between the HIM
and the workstation), do this:
- Move the blue PC interface cable to another communication port on the back of the computer.
- If one of the communication ports on the back of the computer has another cable connected to it,
disconnect that cable, leave it disconnected during the HIM procedure, and connect the blue PC
interface cable to that port.
- Connect the HIM to another computer. (Some iN workstations require an internal communication
port setup procedure. For help, call the iN Support Center)
^ If you get a Code 50 error message (usually caused by a communications error between the HIM
and the vehicle's DLC), do this:
- Diagnose and clear any DTCs. (The control unit/module must be free of DTCs before you can
update it.)
- Make sure there's a good connection between the HIM and the DLC.
- Retry the update using the procedures in this service bulletin or on the back of the HIM.
HIM Self-Test
If you suspect there's a problem with the HIM, review the instructions in this service bulletin to
make sure you are using it correctly. If you still think there's a problem, do this self-test:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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01-023 > Apr > 10 > Computers/Controls - Updating Control Units And Modules > Page 4488
1. If not already done, load the latest HDS software onto the iN workstation.
6. If the self-test indicates a problem with the HIM, call the Special Tools hotline for repair
instructions.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4495
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT start clutch pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 4 and No. 8.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 4, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT start clutch pressure control
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection Start Clutch Pressure Control Calibration
Procedures
Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures whenever you do any of these actions: ^
Replace PCM
^ Reset PCM
^ Update PCM
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover, and go to
the A/T Mode Menu.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 4. Follow the HDS screen prompts in the Start Clutch
Feedback Learn (see the HDS Operator's manual).
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 5. Connect the HDS to the DLC, and follow the screen
prompts to short-circuit the SCS signal terminal using the tester menu. 6. Press the brake pedal,
and continue pressing the pedal until the calibration is completed. 7. Start the engine without load
condition, but turn the headlights on. The headlights must be on during calibration. 8. Shift the shift
lever to N, shift to D, S, then L, and return to N. Repeat this shifting pattern three times within 20
seconds after the engine is started. 9. Check that the D indicator comes on when the shift lever is
in N, then goes off in 1 minute.
10. If the D indicator blinks or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0), and restart the
11. Shift to D, and check that the D indicator comes on, then goes off. 12. If the D indicator blinks
or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), and restart the
13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to complete the procedure. 14. Test-drive the vehicle to
verify that a problem does not occur on the start clutch pressure control system.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Make sure
that the MIL does not come on and the D indicator does not blink. If the MIL comes on or the D
indicator blinks, check the fuel and
3. Start the engine without load (headlights, audio system, blower fan, rear window defogger, A/C,
etc.), and let it idle. 4. Check that the IMA charge gauge indicates no segments. If the IMA charge
gauge indicates any segments, hold the engine speed between 3,500
rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level gauge (BAT)
indicates at least three segments.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve Solenoid Test > Page 4499
5. Drive the vehicle with the shift lever in D until the vehicle speed reaches 37 mph (60 km/h), then
release the accelerator and decelerate without
pressing the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
6. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes, and make sure the engine does not stall or flare when
starting off.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 4500
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT start clutch pressure control valve
connector (A).
3. Remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve (B). 4. Check that the filter (C) is in good
condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Install a new CVT start clutch pressure control
valve with the dowel pins (D) and the separator plate (E) on the lower valve body (F). 6. Connect
the CVT start clutch pressure control valve connector. 7. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Fail Safe Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the inhibitor solenoid resistance between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5
and body ground.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wire is
OK, replace the inhibitor solenoid. 5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to
solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5, and connect another jumper wire from the
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the inhibitor solenoid connector (A).
3. Remove the inhibitor solenoid (B). 4. Install a new inhibitor solenoid on the CVT driven pulley
pressure control valve. 5. Connect the inhibitor solenoid connector. 6. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 3 and No. 7.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 3, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 2 and No. 6.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 2, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Remove the solenoid harness clamp (A).
3. Disconnect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector (B). 4. Remove the seven
bolts, and remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve (C). The CVT start clutch pressure
control valve (D) can also be
removed.
5. Check that the filters (E) are in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 6. Install a
new CVT drive pulley pressure control valve with the dowel pins (F) and the separator plate (G),
and the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve with the dowel pins (H) and the separator plate (I) on the lower valve body (J).
7. Connect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector. 8. Install the solenoid harness
clamp. 9. Install the lower valve body.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve Replacement > Page 4515
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve
connector (A) and the inhibitor solenoid connector (B).
3. Remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve (C), and remove the inhibitor solenoid (D)
from the CVT driven pulley pressure control
valve.
4. Check that the filter (E) is in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Replace the
0-rings (F) on the inhibitor solenoid, if necessary. 6. Install the inhibitor solenoid on a new CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve. 7. Install a new CVT driven pulley pressure control valve with
the dowel pins (G) and the separator plate (H) on the lower valve body (I). 8. Connect the CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve connector and the inhibitor solenoid connector. 9. Install the
lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4523
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4524
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4526
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4527
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4528
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4529
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4530
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4531
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4532
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4533
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4537
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4539
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4540
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4541
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4542
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4543
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4544
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4545
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4546
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4547
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4548
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4549
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4550
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Lamps and Indicators -
A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4551
Circuit Diagram
89-022
(Supersedes 89-022, dated June 18, 2004, to update the information marked by asterisks)
Before installing an overhauled or remanufactured A/T, you must thoroughly clean the ATF cooler
to prevent system contamination. Failure to do so could cause a repeat A/T failure. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner (PIN GTHTTCF6H) is a portable, electrically operated special tool that cleans the ATF
cooler with high- pressure, heated ATF. This cleaning action melts down waxy varnish residue left
by burnt ATF and purges metal particles, clutch material, and other contaminants. The ATF Cooler
Cleaner has these features:
^ Uses about 9.5 gallons of Honda ATF-Z1, which gets filtered and recirculated.
^ Heats ATF to a temperature of 1400 to 150°F and then pumps it through the ATF cooler at high
pressure (100 psi) using a pulsating action and air purging. Switching the hoses cleans the ATF
cooler in the reverse direction.
This service bulletin gives you information for ordering and servicing this special tool, and guides
you through the entire ATF cooler cleaning process.
*REQUIRED MATERIALS
ORDERING INFORMATION
Additional ATF cooler cleaners or magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters can be ordered through the
Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To order on the iN, click on SERVICE, then Service Bay,
then Tool and Equipment Program. From the Tool and Equipment Program menu, click on the
Online Catalog tab, and then search for the desired filter pack by part number.*
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information > Page 4557
TOOL DESCRIPTION
CLEANING PROCEDURE
The cleaning procedure involves hot fluid under high pressure. Check the security of all hoses and
connections. Always wear safety glasses or a face shield, gloves, and protective clothing. If you get
ATF in your eyes or on your skin, rinse with water immediately.
Improper use of the ATF cooler cleaner can result in burns and other serious injuries.
Always wear eye protection and protective clothing, and follow all instructions in this bulletin.
1. Plug the ATF cooler cleaner into a 110 V grounded electrical outlet.
NOTICE
Make sure the outlet has no other appliances (light fixtures, drop lights, extension cords) plugged
into it. Also, never plug the cooler cleaner into an extension cord or drop light cord; you would
damage the unit.
2. Flip the HEAT toggle switch to ON. Wait 1 hour for the cooler cleaner to reach its operating
temperature. (The cooler cleaner is ready to use when the temperature gauge reads 140° to
150°F.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler, A/T
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cooler Flushing Equipment Information > Page 4558
3. Connect the appropriate fittings to the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines. Connect the red hose to
the cooler outlet line (the line going to the external filter). Connect the blue hose to the cooler inlet
line.
NOTICE
The quick connect fitting has a one-way check valve to keep ATF from entering your shop's air
system. Do not remove or replace the fitting. Attach the coupler provided with the cooler cleaner to
your shop air line if your coupler is not compatible.
5. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically to cause agitation and improve the
cleaning process.
6. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
7. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler, then connect the red hose to the cooler
inlet line.
9. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to ON, and let the pump run for 5 minutes. While the pump is
running, open and close the air purge valve periodically.
10. Flip the MOTOR toggle switch to OFF with the air purge valve open. Leave the air purge valve
open for at least 15 seconds to purge the lines of residual ATF.
11. Disconnect the red and blue hoses from the ATF cooler lines. Connect the red and blue hoses
to each other.
12. Disconnect the shop air from the air purge valve. Disconnect and stow the coupler if used.
13. Disconnect and stow the fittings from the ATF cooler inlet and outlet lines.
TOOL MAINTENANCE
Follow these instructions to keep the ATF cooler cleaner working properly:
*^ Replace the two magnetic nonbypass spin-on filters every 20 hours, based on hour meter
reading. For more information on filter replacement, see the
January 2008 Honda ServiceNews article, Hour Meter Tells You When to Replace ATF Cooler
Cleaner Filters.*
^ Fill the tank so the ATF is 4.5 inches from the top of the filler hole; do not overfill.
NOTE:
If the fluid level is low, the red indicator above the HEAT toggle switch comes on and the tank
heater will not work.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4565
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT start clutch pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 4 and No. 8.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 4, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT start clutch pressure control
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection Start Clutch Pressure Control Calibration
Procedures
Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures whenever you do any of these actions: ^
Replace PCM
^ Reset PCM
^ Update PCM
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover, and go to
the A/T Mode Menu.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 4. Follow the HDS screen prompts in the Start Clutch
Feedback Learn (see the HDS Operator's manual).
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 5. Connect the HDS to the DLC, and follow the screen
prompts to short-circuit the SCS signal terminal using the tester menu. 6. Press the brake pedal,
and continue pressing the pedal until the calibration is completed. 7. Start the engine without load
condition, but turn the headlights on. The headlights must be on during calibration. 8. Shift the shift
lever to N, shift to D, S, then L, and return to N. Repeat this shifting pattern three times within 20
seconds after the engine is started. 9. Check that the D indicator comes on when the shift lever is
in N, then goes off in 1 minute.
10. If the D indicator blinks or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0), and restart the
11. Shift to D, and check that the D indicator comes on, then goes off. 12. If the D indicator blinks
or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), and restart the
13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to complete the procedure. 14. Test-drive the vehicle to
verify that a problem does not occur on the start clutch pressure control system.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Make sure
that the MIL does not come on and the D indicator does not blink. If the MIL comes on or the D
indicator blinks, check the fuel and
3. Start the engine without load (headlights, audio system, blower fan, rear window defogger, A/C,
etc.), and let it idle. 4. Check that the IMA charge gauge indicates no segments. If the IMA charge
gauge indicates any segments, hold the engine speed between 3,500
rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level gauge (BAT)
indicates at least three segments.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve Solenoid Test > Page 4569
5. Drive the vehicle with the shift lever in D until the vehicle speed reaches 37 mph (60 km/h), then
release the accelerator and decelerate without
pressing the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
6. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes, and make sure the engine does not stall or flare when
starting off.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 4570
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT start clutch pressure control valve
connector (A).
3. Remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve (B). 4. Check that the filter (C) is in good
condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Install a new CVT start clutch pressure control
valve with the dowel pins (D) and the separator plate (E) on the lower valve body (F). 6. Connect
the CVT start clutch pressure control valve connector. 7. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Fail Safe Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the inhibitor solenoid resistance between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5
and body ground.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wire is
OK, replace the inhibitor solenoid. 5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to
solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5, and connect another jumper wire from the
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the inhibitor solenoid connector (A).
3. Remove the inhibitor solenoid (B). 4. Install a new inhibitor solenoid on the CVT driven pulley
pressure control valve. 5. Connect the inhibitor solenoid connector. 6. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 3 and No. 7.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 3, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 2 and No. 6.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 2, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Remove the solenoid harness clamp (A).
3. Disconnect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector (B). 4. Remove the seven
bolts, and remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve (C). The CVT start clutch pressure
control valve (D) can also be
removed.
5. Check that the filters (E) are in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 6. Install a
new CVT drive pulley pressure control valve with the dowel pins (F) and the separator plate (G),
and the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve with the dowel pins (H) and the separator plate (I) on the lower valve body (J).
7. Connect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector. 8. Install the solenoid harness
clamp. 9. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair >
CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve Replacement > Page 4585
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve
connector (A) and the inhibitor solenoid connector (B).
3. Remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve (C), and remove the inhibitor solenoid (D)
from the CVT driven pulley pressure control
valve.
4. Check that the filter (E) is in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Replace the
0-rings (F) on the inhibitor solenoid, if necessary. 6. Install the inhibitor solenoid on a new CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve. 7. Install a new CVT driven pulley pressure control valve with
the dowel pins (G) and the separator plate (H) on the lower valve body (I). 8. Connect the CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve connector and the inhibitor solenoid connector. 9. Install the
lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Clutch
Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Clutch
Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4589
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT start clutch pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 4 and No. 8.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 4, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT start clutch pressure control
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection Start Clutch Pressure Control Calibration
Procedures
Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures whenever you do any of these actions: ^
Replace PCM
^ Reset PCM
^ Update PCM
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover, and go to
the A/T Mode Menu.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 4. Follow the HDS screen prompts in the Start Clutch
Feedback Learn (see the HDS Operator's manual).
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 5. Connect the HDS to the DLC, and follow the screen
prompts to short-circuit the SCS signal terminal using the tester menu. 6. Press the brake pedal,
and continue pressing the pedal until the calibration is completed. 7. Start the engine without load
condition, but turn the headlights on. The headlights must be on during calibration. 8. Shift the shift
lever to N, shift to D, S, then L, and return to N. Repeat this shifting pattern three times within 20
seconds after the engine is started. 9. Check that the D indicator comes on when the shift lever is
in N, then goes off in 1 minute.
10. If the D indicator blinks or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0), and restart the
11. Shift to D, and check that the D indicator comes on, then goes off. 12. If the D indicator blinks
or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), and restart the
13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to complete the procedure. 14. Test-drive the vehicle to
verify that a problem does not occur on the start clutch pressure control system.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Make sure
that the MIL does not come on and the D indicator does not blink. If the MIL comes on or the D
indicator blinks, check the fuel and
3. Start the engine without load (headlights, audio system, blower fan, rear window defogger, A/C,
etc.), and let it idle. 4. Check that the IMA charge gauge indicates no segments. If the IMA charge
gauge indicates any segments, hold the engine speed between 3,500
rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level gauge (BAT)
indicates at least three segments.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Clutch
Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test > Page 4593
5. Drive the vehicle with the shift lever in D until the vehicle speed reaches 37 mph (60 km/h), then
release the accelerator and decelerate without
pressing the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
6. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes, and make sure the engine does not stall or flare when
starting off.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Clutch
Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 4594
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT start clutch pressure control valve
connector (A).
3. Remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve (B). 4. Check that the filter (C) is in good
condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Install a new CVT start clutch pressure control
valve with the dowel pins (D) and the separator plate (E) on the lower valve body (F). 6. Connect
the CVT start clutch pressure control valve connector. 7. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Control
Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during a
troubleshooting procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you are returning from the DLC circuit
troubleshooting, skip steps 5 to 6, and clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 9. Disconnect the
negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.
10. Remove the battery. 11. Remove the PCM cover (A).
12. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Control
Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4602
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install a known-good PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
16. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 17. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 18. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 19. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 20. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 21. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in steps 6, clean the throttle body. 22. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 23. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 24. Enter the anti-theft code for
the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock
(on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fail Safe
Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the inhibitor solenoid resistance between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5
and body ground.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wire is
OK, replace the inhibitor solenoid. 5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to
solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5, and connect another jumper wire from the
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the inhibitor solenoid connector (A).
3. Remove the inhibitor solenoid (B). 4. Install a new inhibitor solenoid on the CVT driven pulley
pressure control valve. 5. Connect the inhibitor solenoid connector. 6. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid -
CVT > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - CVT: Capacity Specifications
Change ................................................................................................................................................
............................................................... 3.0 Qt (2.8L) Complete Refill ...............................................
................................................................................................................................................... 5.4 Qt
(5.1L)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid -
CVT > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 4613
Fluid - CVT: Fluid Type Specifications
A/T Fluid
Honda Service News Notice: If you're replacing transmission fluid in a CVT-equipped vehicle, or
just topping it off, make sure you're using the new CVT fluid (P/N 08200-9006). From here on,
DON'T put ATF-Z1 in a CVT. If you're topping off a CVT that's already got ATF-Z1, there's no need
for concern; this fluid is compatible with ATF-Z1. All CVT-equipped Hondas starting with the 2006
models and onward will be factory-filled with the new CVT fluid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid -
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Fluid Level Check
1. Park the vehicle on the level ground. 2. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating
temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds after turning the engine off. Higher fluid level
may be indicated if the radiator fan comes on twice or more.
3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A), and wipe it with a clean cloth.
4. Insert the dipstick back into the tube. 5. Remove the dipstick, and check the fluid level. It should
be between the upper mark (A) and the lower mark (B) on the HOT level (C).
6. If the level is below the lower mark, check for fluid leaks at the transmission, the ATF filter, the
ATF cooler hoses, the ATF cooler lines, and the
ATF cooler line joints. If a problem is found, fix it before filling the transmission with CVTF.
7. If the level is above the upper mark, drain the CVTF to proper level. 8. If necessary, fill the
transmission with CVTF through the dipstick tube opening (A) to bring the fluid level between the
upper mark and the lower
mark of the dipstick. Do not fill the fluid above the upper mark. Always use Honda CVT fluid
(CVTF). Using a non-Honda CVTF can affect shift quality.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid -
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Fluid Level Check > Page 4616
9. Insert the dipstick (A) back into the tube with the dot (B) on the handle facing to the left side of
the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid -
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Fluid Level Check > Page 4617
Fluid - CVT: Service and Repair CVT Fluid Replacement
1. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2.
Park the vehicle on level ground, and turn the engine off. 3. Remove the clips and the bolts
securing the front of the undercover, then open the undercover.
4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the CVT fluid (CVTF). Reinstall the drain plug with a new
sealing washer (B).
5. Refill the transmission with the recommended fluid through the dipstick tube opening (A) to bring
it to the upper mark on the dipstick. Always use
Honda CVT fluid (CVTF). Using a non-Honda CVTF can affect shift quality.
6. Check that the CVT fluid level is between the upper mark (A) and the lower mark (B) on the
COLD level (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid -
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Fluid Level Check > Page 4618
7. Insert the dipstick back into the tube with the dot on the handle facing to the left side of the
vehicle. 8. Check the CVT fluid level. 9. Install the undercover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid
Filter - CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Disconnect the ATF cooler hoses from the ATF filter (A).
2. Remove the bolt securing the ATF filter holder (B), and remove the ATF filter.
3. Slide the ATF cooler hose (transmission side) (C) on a new ATF filter until the hose end contacts
the mark, and secure the hose with the clip at 2-4
4. Slide the ATF cooler hose (ATF cooler side) (D) on the ATF filter until the hose end is 5-7 mm
(0.2-0.3 in.) away from the filter housing.
5. Secure the ATF filter on its bracket (E) with the ATF filter holder and the bolt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Fluid
Line/Hose, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Slide the ATF cooler hoses (A) over the transmission ATF cooler lines (B) until the hose ends
contact the bulge (C), and secure the hoses with the
clip (D) at 6-8 mm (0.2-0.3 in.) (E) from the hose end.
2. Slide the ATF cooler hoses (F) over the ATF cooler lines (G) until the hose ends contact the
bulge (H), and secure the hoses with the clip (I) at 2-4
3. Slide the ATF cooler hose (ATF cooler side) (K) on the ATF filter (L) until the hose end is 5-7 mm
(0.2-0.3 in.) (M) away from the filter housing,
and secure the hose with the clip (N) at 2-4 mm (0.1-0.2 in.) (O) from the hose end.
4. Slide the ATF cooler hose (transmission side) (P) on the ATF filter until the hose end contacts
the mark (Q), and secure the hose with the clip (R)
ATF pan
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Pressure
Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 3 and No. 7.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 3, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 2 and No. 6.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 2, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Remove the solenoid harness clamp (A).
3. Disconnect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector (B). 4. Remove the seven
bolts, and remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve (C). The CVT start clutch pressure
control valve (D) can also be
removed.
5. Check that the filters (E) are in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 6. Install a
new CVT drive pulley pressure control valve with the dowel pins (F) and the separator plate (G),
and the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve with the dowel pins (H) and the separator plate (I) on the lower valve body (J).
7. Connect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector. 8. Install the solenoid harness
clamp. 9. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Pressure
Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement > Page 4636
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve
connector (A) and the inhibitor solenoid connector (B).
3. Remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve (C), and remove the inhibitor solenoid (D)
from the CVT driven pulley pressure control
valve.
4. Check that the filter (E) is in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Replace the
0-rings (F) on the inhibitor solenoid, if necessary. 6. Install the inhibitor solenoid on a new CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve. 7. Install a new CVT driven pulley pressure control valve with
the dowel pins (G) and the separator plate (H) on the lower valve body (I). 8. Connect the CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve connector and the inhibitor solenoid connector. 9. Install the
lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Relays
and Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and
Diagnostic Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during a
troubleshooting procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you are returning from the DLC circuit
troubleshooting, skip steps 5 to 6, and clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 9. Disconnect the
negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.
10. Remove the battery. 11. Remove the PCM cover (A).
12. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Relays
and Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and
Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4645
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install a known-good PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
16. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 17. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 18. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 19. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 20. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 21. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in steps 6, clean the throttle body. 22. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 23. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 24. Enter the anti-theft code for
the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock
(on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch connector.
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK. If there is no continuity
between any terminals, go to step 5. 5. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end
of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4654
6. If the measurement of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace the
transmission range switch. If the measurement is out of the
standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range switch
continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4655
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Shift to N. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 3. Disconnect the
transmission range switch connector, and remove the control shaft cover (A).
4. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 5. Move the control shaft from the P position to the N
position by turning the selector control shaft using a 6.0 mm wrench.
NOTE: Do not use the selector control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the control shaft tips are
squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the selector control
shaft and the transmission range switch.
6. To set up a new transmission range switch (A), align the cutouts (B) on the rotary-frame with the
neutral positioning cutouts (C) on the
transmission range switch. Then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to
hold the transmission range switch in the A/T position.
NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to hold the transmission range switch
in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4656
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts (A) on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position.
Do not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector
securely.
10. Install the control shaft cover on the transmission range switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4657
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
12. Check that the engine starts in P and N, and does not start in any other shift lever position. 13.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 14. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or
apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is
supported securely. 15. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the
shift lever operation. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT input shaft
(drive pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft
(Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4667
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Output Shaft (Driven Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT output shaft
(driven pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed
sensor (A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor in
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft
(Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4668
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Speed Sensor Replacement
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT speed sensor, then install the CVT speed sensor in the
transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector
securely. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the center console. 2. Pry the socket holder up and off, using a screwdriver.
4. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise, push it against the socket holder bracket
(B), then slide the socket holder to remove the
5. While holding the socket holder (A), rotate the socket holder retainer (B) fully counterclockwise,
and press in the socket holder lock (C) between
7. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) clockwise, and push the socket holder lock (B). Rotate the
holder retainer counterclockwise until the retainer
stops at the stop (C) of the holder lock to secure the shift cable.
8. Push the shift cable (A) until it stops, then release it. Pull the shift cable back one step so that
the shift position is in R. Do not hold the shift cable
10. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 11. Place the shift lever in R, then insert a 6.0 mm (0.24
inch) pin (A) into the positioning hole (B) on the shift lever bracket, through the positioning
hole (C) on the shift lever, and into the positioning hole on the bracket. Use only a 6.0 mm pin that
is free of burrs.
12. Check that the shift lever is secured in R. 13. Install the shift cable end (A) over the mounting
stud (B) by aligning its square hole (C) with the square fitting (D) at the bottom of the stud. Do
not install the shift cable by holding the shift cable guide (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Linkage, CVT > Shift Cable, CVT > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 4678
14. Check that the shift cable end (A) is properly installed on the mounting stud (B).
15. If improperly installed, align the square fitting with the square hole by rotating the mounting
stud. 16. Install and tighten the nut.
17. Remove the 6.0 mm (0.24 in.) pin that was installed to hold the shift lever. 18. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever to each position, and check that the A/T gear position
indicator follows the transmission
range switch.
19. Shift to P, and check that the shift lock works properly. Push the shift lock release, and check
that the shift lever releases. 20. Install the center console.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Linkage, CVT > Shift Cable, CVT > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 4679
Shift Cable: Service and Repair
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift or apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of
the vehicle. Make sure it is securely supported. 2. Remove the center console. 3. Pry the socket
holder up and off, using a screwdriver.
5. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise, push it against the socket holder bracket
(B), then slide the socket holder to remove the
excessively.
11. Remove the nuts securing the shift cable bracket (A) and the grommet (B).
12. Remove the shift cable grommet, and pull out the shift cable (C). 13. Insert a new shift cable
through the grommet hole (D), and install the grommet in its hole. Do not bend the shift cable
excessively. 14. Secure the shift cable bracket and the grommet with the nuts. 15. Secure the shift
cable bracket with the nuts. 16. Make sure that the transmission is in the R position at the selector
control shaft. 17. Apply molybdenum grease to the hole in the shift cable end collar (A). Attach the
shift cable end to the control lever (B). Insert the control pin (C)
through the control lever hole (D), through the shift cable end hole, and into the control lever slotted
hole (E) in the direction shown. Push the control pin until its flange (F) contacts the control lever
surface.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Linkage, CVT > Shift Cable, CVT > Component Information > Adjustments > Page 4681
18. Insert the snap pin (G) in the direction shown through the control pin hole and out the opening
(H) of the control lever so that the hooked end (I) of
the snap pin snaps into the countersunk hole (J) of the control pin.
19. Secure the shift cable bracket on the transmission with the bolts. 20. Install the air cleaner
housing mounting bracket. 21. Install the shift cable on the shift lever, and adjust the cable.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4689
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4690
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4692
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4693
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4694
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4695
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4696
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4697
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4698
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4699
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4703
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4705
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4706
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4707
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4708
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4709
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4710
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4711
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4712
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4713
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4714
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4715
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4716
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4717
Shift Interlock: Electrical Diagrams
Wiring Diagrams
Diagram 138-0
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4718
Diagram 138-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Circuit Diagram
Key Interlock
When you push the key into the ignition switch, a ground signal is provided to the multiplex control
unit. If the shift lever is in PARK, the multiplex control unit provides voltage to the key interlock
solenoid, energizing the solenoid and allowing the key to be turned to the LOCK (0) position.
Battery voltage is supplied at all times through fuse 12 (in the under-hood fuse/relay box) to the
brake pedal position switch. With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), battery voltage is
supplied through fuse 10 (in the under-dash fuse/relay box) to the shift lock solenoid. When the
brake pedal is pressed, battery voltage is applied through the LT GRN wire to the PCM. If, at the
same time, you do not press the accelerator pedal, the PCM applies ground through the PNK wire
to the shift lock solenoid. The solenoid is then energized, allowing the shift lever to be moved from
the PARK position.
While the vehicle is in motion (in NEUTRAL, DRIVE, S or L), the multiplex control unit detects the
motion, and will remove ground from the shift lock solenoid. No longer energized, the shift lock
solenoid will not allow the shift lever to be moved into REVERSE or PARK.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting
Shift Interlock: Testing and Inspection Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Remove the center console. 5. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector. 6. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II). 7. Measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector terminal No. 1 and
body ground.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Check for a blown No. 10 (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box. If the fuse is OK,
repair open or short to body ground in the wire between the shift lock solenoid connector and the
under-dash fuse/relay box.
8. Shift to P, and press the brake pedal. Do not press the accelerator. 9. Measure the voltage
between shift lock solenoid connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 while pressing the brake pedal.
NO - Go to step 11.
10. Release the brake pedal, and measure the voltage between shift lock solenoid connector
terminals No. 1 and No. 2. The shift lever must be in P.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting > Page 4723
NO - Check the shift lock mechanism. If the mechanism is OK, replace the shift lock solenoid.
11. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 12. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 13. Disconnect PCM
connector A (44P). 14. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A27 and shift lock
solenoid connector terminal No. 2.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A27 and the shift lock solenoid
connector.
16. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 17. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 18. Disconnect PCM
connector A (44P). 19. Measure the voltage between PCM connector terminal A40 and body
ground while pressing the brake pedal and when the brake pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting > Page 4724
Is there battery voltage while the brake pedal is pressed, and about 0 V when the pedal is
released?
NO - Go to step 20.
20. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A40 and brake pedal position switch 4P
connector terminal No. 2.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal A40 and the brake pedal position
switch.
21. Connect PCM connector A (44P). 22. Disconnect the transmission range switch connector. 23.
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 24. Measure the voltage between transmission range switch
connector terminals No. 2 and No. 6.
Is there about 5 V?
NO - Go to step 25.
25. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 26. Disconnect PCM connector B (44P). 27. Check for
continuity between PCM connector terminal B13 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting > Page 4725
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B13 and the
transmission range switch.
NO - Go to step 28.
28. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal B13 and transmission range switch
connector terminal No. 6.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between PCM connector terminal B13 and the transmission range
switch.
29. Check for continuity between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 2 and body
ground.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between transmission range switch connector terminal No. 2 and
ground (G102), or repair poor ground (G102).
31. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 32. Check the accelerator pedal position sensor in the Data list
with the HDS. Do not press the accelerator.
Is the accelerator pedal position sensor opening 11 % and above, or the sensor voltage 1.60 V and
above?
Shift Interlock: Testing and Inspection Key Interlock System Circuit Troubleshooting
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ACCESSORY (I). The shift lever must be in P. 2. Disconnect the
steering lock assembly connector. 3. Check if the ignition switch can be turned to LOCK (0).
YES - Go to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 5. Move the shift lever out of P. 6. Check for continuity
between steering lock assembly connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the key interlock solenoid and the MICU.
NO - Go to step 7.
7. Remove the center console. 8. Check for continuity between park pin switch/A/T gear position
indicator panel light connector terminal No. 3 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator
panel light connector terminal No. 3 and the MICU.
NO - Go to step 9.
9. Shift into P.
10. Check for continuity between park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator panel light connector
terminals No. 3 and No. 4. Do not push the shift
lever button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting > Page 4728
Is there continuity?
YES - Faulty park pin switch, replace the park pin switch.
NO - Go to step 11.
11. Disconnect under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (34P). 12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
13. Measure the voltage between under-dash fuse/relay box connector F (34P) No. 27 terminal and
body ground.
Is there no voltage while the shift lever in P, and is there voltage when the shift lever shifts out of
P?
NO - Repair short to body ground in the wire between PCM connector terminal B13, the
transmission range switch, and the MICU.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting > Page 4729
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 4. Select shift Lock Solenoid Test in the Miscellaneous
Test Menu, and recheck that the shift lock solenoid operates with the HDS. 5. Make sure that the
shift lever can be moved of P with the Shift Lock Solenoid is ON. Move the shift lever back in P,
and make sure it locks when
6. Make sure that the shift lock releases when the shift lock release is pushed, and check that it
locks when the shift lock release is released. 7. If shift lock solenoid does not work properly, go to
the shift lock system troubleshooting. See: Key Interlock System Circuit Troubleshooting
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Shift Lock System Circuit Troubleshooting > Page 4730
1. Remove the center console. 2. Move the shift lever into P, and check for continuity between park
pin switch/A/T gear position indicator panel light connector terminals No. 3 and
3. Shift out of P, and check for continuity between connector terminals No. 3 and No. 4.
4. If the park pin switch tests OK, install the center console. If the park pin switch fails the test,
replace the park pin switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement
Shift Interlock: Service and Repair Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Remove the shift lock solenoid connector. 3. Release the
shift lock solenoid lock (A), then remove the shift lock solenoid (B).
4. Replace the shift lock solenoid (A), the solenoid plunger (B), and the plunger spring (C)
assembly.
5. Apply silicone grease to the tip (D) of the shift lock stop (E), and install new shift lock solenoid
assembly by aligning the joint of the shift lock
6. Route the shift lock solenoid harness in the guide, and install the connector (F) on the bracket
base. 7. Install the shift lever assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > Shift Lock Solenoid Replacement > Page 4733
Shift Interlock: Service and Repair Shift Lock Stop, Shift Lock Stop Cushion Replacement
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Release the shift lock solenoid lock (A), then remove the
shift lock solenoid (B).
3. Remove the shift lock release (A) and the release spring (B).
4. Remove the shift lock stop (C) and the stop cushion (D), and replace the shift lock stop or the
stop cushion. 5. Install the shift lock stop cushion on the shift lock stop. 6. Apply silicone grease to
the pin on the shift lever bracket base, and install the shift lock stop over the pin. 7. Install the shift
lock release spring and the shift lock release, apply silicone grease to the shift lock release
mounting tip if necessary. 8. Apply silicone grease to the tip of the shift lock stop, and install the
shift lock solenoid assembly by aligning the joint of the shift lock solenoid
A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness/Park Pin Switch Replacement
NOTE: The A/T gear position indicator light and the park pin switch are not available separately.
Replace the A/T gear position indicator light and the park pin switch as a set.
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Loosen the A/T gear position indicator panel. 3. Remove the
park pin switch (A) while pressing the park pin switch lock (B).
4. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A) from the indicator panel (B).
5. Remove the harness clamp (C), and remove the park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator
panel light harness connector (D) from the shift lever
6. Install a new park pin switch (F) on the shift lever. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel
light bulb in socket, and install it in the indicator
panel.
7. Tie the harness together into bundle with a new harness clamp, then install the harness clamp
on the shift lever bracket base. 8. Route the harnesses along the harness guides, and install the
new connector in the bracket base. 9. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel.
10. Install the shift lever assembly. 11. Install the center console.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shifter
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
Shifter CVT: Removal and Replacement
1. Remove the center console. 2. Shift the shift lever into R. 3. Pry the socket holder up and off,
using a screwdriver.
5. Rotate the socket holder retainer (A) counterclockwise, push it against the socket holder bracket
(B), then slide the socket holder to remove the
6. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (A) and park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator
panel light connector (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shifter
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4739
7. Remove the shift lever assembly.
2. Connect the shift lock solenoid connector (A) and park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator
panel light connector (B).
3. Install the shift cable on the shift lever, and adjust the cable.
A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness/Park Pin Switch Replacement
A/T Gear Position Indicator Panel Light Harness/Park Pin Switch Replacement
NOTE: The A/T gear position indicator light and the park pin switch are not available separately.
Replace the A/T gear position indicator light and the park pin switch as a set.
1. Remove the shift lever assembly. 2. Loosen the A/T gear position indicator panel. 3. Remove the
park pin switch (A) while pressing the park pin switch lock (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shifter
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4740
4. Remove the A/T gear position indicator panel light socket (A) from the indicator panel (B).
5. Remove the harness clamp (C), and remove the park pin switch/A/T gear position indicator
panel light harness connector (D) from the shift lever
6. Install a new park pin switch (F) on the shift lever. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel
light bulb in socket, and install it in the indicator
panel.
7. Tie the harness together into bundle with a new harness clamp, then install the harness clamp
on the shift lever bracket base. 8. Route the harnesses along the harness guides, and install the
new connector in the bracket base. 9. Install the A/T gear position indicator panel.
10. Install the shift lever assembly. 11. Install the center console.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shifter
CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4741
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch connector.
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK. If there is no continuity
between any terminals, go to step 5. 5. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end
of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4749
6. If the measurement of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace the
transmission range switch. If the measurement is out of the
standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range switch
continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4750
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Shift to N. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 3. Disconnect the
transmission range switch connector, and remove the control shaft cover (A).
4. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 5. Move the control shaft from the P position to the N
position by turning the selector control shaft using a 6.0 mm wrench.
NOTE: Do not use the selector control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the control shaft tips are
squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the selector control
shaft and the transmission range switch.
6. To set up a new transmission range switch (A), align the cutouts (B) on the rotary-frame with the
neutral positioning cutouts (C) on the
transmission range switch. Then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to
hold the transmission range switch in the A/T position.
NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to hold the transmission range switch
in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4751
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts (A) on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position.
Do not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector
securely.
10. Install the control shaft cover on the transmission range switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4752
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
12. Check that the engine starts in P and N, and does not start in any other shift lever position. 13.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 14. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or
apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is
supported securely. 15. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the
shift lever operation. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT input shaft
(drive pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed
Sensor Replacement > Page 4762
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Output Shaft (Driven Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT output shaft
(driven pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed
sensor (A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor in
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed
Sensor Replacement > Page 4763
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Speed Sensor Replacement
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT speed sensor, then install the CVT speed sensor in the
transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector
securely. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT >
Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness connector. 3. Remove the
undercover (A) and the splash shield (B).
4. Remove the drain plug (A), and drain the CVT fluid (CVTF). Reinstall the drain plug and a new
sealing washer (B).
6. Remove the ATF strainer (B). 7. Remove the bolts securing the lower valve body (C), and
remove the bolt securing the solenoid harness connector (D) while holding the lower
8. Install the lower valve body in the reverse order of removal. 9. Refill the transmission with CVTF.
10. Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures if any control valve of the lower valve
body is replaced.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Locations
Driveshaft Inspection
1. Check the inboard boot (A) and the outboard boot (B) on the driveshaft (C) for cracks, damage,
leaking grease, and loose boot bands (D). If any
2. Check the driveshaft for cracks and damage. If any damage is found, replace the driveshaft.
3. Check the inboard joint (E) and the outboard joint (F) for cracks and damage. If any damage is
found, replace the inboard joint or the outboard
joint as an assembly.
4. Hold the inboard joint and turn the front wheel by hand, then make sure the joint is not
excessively loose. If necessary, replace the inboard joint or
Driveshaft Removal
Driveshaft Removal
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift. 2. Remove the front wheels. 3. Lift up the locking tab (A) on the
spindle nut (B), then remove the nut.
4. Drain the transmission fluid, then reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer. 5. Remove
the nuts and the bolt, then separate the lower arm using a prybar.
6. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub using a plastic hammer.
7. Pull the knuckle outward, and separate the driveshaft outboard joint from the front wheel hub.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4778
8. Left driveshaft: Pry the inboard joint (A) from the differential with a prybar. Remove the driveshaft
as an assembly.
NOTE: Do not pull on the driveshaft (B), or the inboard joint may come apart. Pull the driveshaft
straight out to avoid damaging the oil seal.
9. Right driveshaft: Drive the inboard joint (A) off of the intermediate shaft using a drift and a
hammer. Remove the driveshaft as an assembly.
NOTE: Do not pull on the driveshaft (B), or the inboard joint may come apart. Pull the driveshaft
straight out to avoid damaging the oil seal.
Driveshaft Installation
Driveshaft Installation
NOTE: Before starting installation, make sure the mating surfaces of the joint and the splined
section are clean.
1. Apply about 5 g (0.18 oz) moly 60 paste (P/N 08734-0001) to the contact area (A) of the
outboard joint and the front wheel bearing.
3. Apply 0.5-1.0 g (0.02-0.04 oz) of super high temp urea grease (P/N 08798-9002) to the whole
splined surface (A) of the right driveshaft. After
applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from
the set ring groove (B) so that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.
4. Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or brake
cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
5. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or intermediate shaft (C) until
the set ring (D) locks in the groove (E).
NOTE: Insert the driveshaft horizontally to prevent damaging the differential oil seal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4780
6. Install the outboard joint (A) into the front wheel hub (B).
7. Connect the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). During installation, install a new flange bolt and
new self-locking nuts. After lightly tightening all
three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order: the nut on the front (C),
the nut on the rear (D), then the bolt (E).
8. Apply small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the new spindle nut (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4781
9. Install a new spindle nut, then tighten it. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut
shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
10. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake discs and the front wheels, then install the front wheels.
11. Turn the front wheels by hand, and make sure there is no interference between the driveshaft
and surrounding parts. 12. Lower the vehicle on the lift. 13. Refill the transmission with the
recommended transmission fluid. 14. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. 15.
Test-drive the vehicle.
1. Remove the inboard joint. 2. Remove the dynamic damper band. 3. Remove the dynamic
damper.
4. Install the new dynamic damper and adjust the position of the new dynamic damper to these
measurements.
NOTE: ^
Install the dynamic damper that has "SNC-003" mark (A) to the left driveshaft.
^ Install the dynamic damper that has "SNC-901" mark to the right driveshaft.
1. Drain the transmission fluid, then reinstall the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4782
2. Remove the right driveshaft. 3. Remove the three dowel bolts (A).
4. Remove the intermediate shaft (A) from the differential. Hold the intermediate shaft horizontal
until it is clear of the differential to prevent
1. Make sure set ring (A) is new. If it is not, replace the new part.
2. Clean the areas where the intermediate shaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or
brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air.
3. Insert the intermediate shaft assembly (B) into the differential until the set ring locks in the
groove.
NOTE: Insert the intermediate shaft carefully to prevent damaging the differential oil seal (C).
5. Install the right driveshaft. 6. Refill the transmission with the recommended transmission fluid. 7.
Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. 8. Test-drive the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4784
Driveshaft Disassembly
Driveshaft Disassembly
Special Tools Required
^ If the boot band is a welded type (A), cut the boot band.
^ If the boot band is a double loop type (B), lift up the band end (C), and push it into the clip (D).
^ If the boot band is a low profile type (E), pinch the boot band using commercially available boot
band pliers (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4785
3. Make marks (A) on each roller (B) and the inboard joint (C) to identify the locations of the rollers
to the grooves in the inboard joint. Then remove
the inboard joint on a clean shop towel (D). Be careful not to drop the rollers when separating them
from the inboard joint.
4. Make marks (A) on the rollers (B) and the spider (C) to identify the locations of the rollers on the
spider, then remove the rollers.
NOTE: ^
1. Remove the boot bands (A). Lift up the three tabs (B) with a screwdriver. Be careful not to
damage the boot.
2. Slide the outboard boot (A) partially to the inboard joint side. Be careful not to damage the boot.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4787
3. Wipe off the grease to expose the driveshaft and the outboard joint inner race. 4. Make a mark
(A) on the driveshaft (B) at the same level as the outboard joint rim (C).
5. Securely clamp the driveshaft in a bench vise with a shop towel. 6. Remove the outboard joint
(A) using the 22 x 1.5 mm threaded adapter (B) and a commercially available 5/8"-18 UNF slide
hammer (C).
7. Remove the driveshaft from the bench vise. 8. Remove the stop ring from the driveshaft.
9. Wrap the splines on the driveshaft with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damaging the boot.
10. Remove the outboard boot. Be careful not to damage the boot. 11. Remove the vinyl tape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4788
Driveshaft Reassembly
Driveshaft Reassembly
Exploded View
Driveshaft
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damaging the inboard boot.
2. Install the inboard boot onto the driveshaft, then remove the vinyl tape. Be careful not to damage
the inboard boot. 3. Install the spider (A) onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (B) you made on
the spider and the end of the driveshaft.
4. Install a new circlip (C) into the driveshaft groove. Always rotate the circlip in its groove to make
sure it is fully seated. 5. Fit the rollers (A) onto the spider (B) with their high shoulders facing
outward, and note these items:
^ Reinstall the rollers in their original positions on the spider by aligning the marks (C) you made.
^ Hold the driveshaft pointed up to prevent the rollers from falling off.
6. Pack the inboard joint with the joint grease included in the new inboard boot set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4790
7. Fit the inboard joint onto the driveshaft and note these items:
^ Reinstall the inboard joint onto the driveshaft by aligning the marks (A) you made on the inboard
joint and the rollers.
^ Hold the driveshaft so the inboard joint is pointing up to prevent it from falling off.
8. Fit the boot ends (A) onto the driveshaft (B) and the inboard joint (C),
9. Adjust the length of the driveshafts to the figure as shown, then adjust the boots to halfway
between full compression and full extension. Bleed
excess air from the boots by inserting a flat-tipped screwdriver between the boot and the joint.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4791
10. Fit the boot ends onto the driveshaft and the inboard joint, then install the new double loop
band (A) onto the boot (B).
NOTE: Pass the end of the new double loop band through the clip (C) twice in the direction of the
forward rotation of the driveshaft.
11. Pull up the slack in the band by hand. 12. Mark a position (A) on the band 10-14 mm (0.4-0.6
inch) from the clip (B).
13. Thread the free end of the band through the nose section of the commercially available boot
band tool KD-3191 or equivalent (A), and into the slot
clip.
16. Unwind the boot band tool, and cut off the excess free end of the band to leave a 5-10 mm
(0.2-0.4 in.) tail protruding from the clip.
17. Bend the band end (A) by tapping it down with a hammer.
NOTE: ^
Make sure the band and the clip do not interfere with anything on the vehicle and the band does
not move.
1. Wrap the splines with vinyl tape (A) to prevent damaging the outboard boot.
2. Install the new ear clamp bands (B) and the outboard boot, then remove the vinyl tape. Be
careful not to damage the outboard boot. 3. Install a new stop ring (A) into the driveshaft groove
(B).
4. Pack about 35 g (1.2 oz) grease included in the new outboard boot set into the driveshaft hole in
the outboard joint.
NOTE: If you are installing a new outboard joint, the grease is already installed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4794
5. Insert the driveshaft (A) into the outboard joint (B) until the stop ring (C) is close to the joint.
6. To completely seat the outboard joint, pick up the driveshaft and joint, and tap or hit them from a
height of about 10 cm (4 in.) onto a hard surface.
NOTE: Do not use a hammer as excessive force may damage the driveshaft. Be careful not to
damage the threaded section (A) of the outboard joint.
7. Check the alignment of the paint mark (A) you made with the outboard joint rim (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4795
8. Pack the outboard joint (A) with the remaining joint grease included in the new outboard boot
set.
9. Fit the boot ends (A) onto the driveshaft (B) and the outboard joint (C). Bleed any excess air
from the boot by inserting a flat-tipped screwdriver
10. Adjust the length of the driveshafts to the figure as shown, then adjust the boots to halfway
between full compression and full extension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4796
11. Close the ear portion (A) of the band with commercially available boot band pliers Kent-Moore
J-35910 or equivalent (B).
12. Check the clearance between the closed ear portion of the band. If the clearance is not within
the standard, close the ear portion of the band tighter.
13. Repeat steps 11 and 12 for the band on the other end of the boot.
1. Remove the three flange bolts, then remove the heat shield (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4797
2. Remove the set ring (A), the outer seal (B), and the external snap ring (C).
3. Press the intermediate shaft (A) out of the intermediate shaft bearing (B) using the support base
attachment (C), support base (D), and a press. Be
careful not to damage the bearing support ring (E) on the intermediate shaft during disassembly.
5. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) out of the bearing support (B) using the half shaft base,
the oil seal driver (C) and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4798
Intermediate Shaft Reassembly
Intermediate Shaft
^ Attachment, 52 x 55 mm 07746-0010400
^ Driver 07749-0010000
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4799
NOTE: Refer to the Exploded View, as needed, during this procedure.
1. Clean the disassembled parts with solvent, and dry them with compressed air.
2. Press the intermediate shaft bearing (A) into the bearing support (B) using the 52 x 55 mm
attachment (C), the driver (D) and a press.
3. Install the internal snap ring into the groove of the bearing support.
4. Press the intermediate shaft (A) into the new shaft bearing (B) using the 35 mm I.D. attachment
(C) and a press.
5. Install the external snap ring (A) into the groove of the intermediate shaft (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 4800
6. Install a new outer seal (A) into the bearing support (B) using the oil seal driver (C), and a press.
Press the until it is -0.2-0.2 mm (-0.01-0.01 in.)
8. Install the heat shield (A), then tighten the three flange bolts in the sequence shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 4801
Special Tools
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play while by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
^ Driver 07749-0010000
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or the brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4808
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new cotter pin after tightening the nut, and bend its end as
shown.
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C), then the bolt (D).
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4809
13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and the self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper pinch bolts and the new self-locking nuts.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The inner driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and the driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install a lock pin as shown after tightening the new castle nut.
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and the nuts, then raise the
suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and the
tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and the
mating surfaces of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from falling when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4811
5. Wash the knuckle and the hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press
a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base and a press.
NOTE: ^
Install the wheel bearing with the wheel speed sensor magnetic encoder (E) (brown color), toward
the inside of the knuckle.
^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, metal debris, and other foreign material from the encoder surface.
^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing.
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
Knuckle/Hub Bearing
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4814
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
Knuckle Replacement
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
NOTE: Apply multipurpose grease to the mating surfaces on the knuckle and the O-ring (D) during
reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4815
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
NOTE: Use the new upper arm mounting bolt during reassembly.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
NOTE: Use the new self-locking nut and the new adjusting bolt during reassembly.
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 4816
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the normal brake
system (except the servo unit and power unit). Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and
retighten it if necessary.
Spindle nut
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
........................... 181 N-m (18.5 kgf-m, 134 lbf-ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Flex Plate > Component Information > Specifications
Drive plate
Flywheel to drive plate Attach the flywheel to the drive plate with six bolts. Rotate the crankshaft
pulley to tighten the bolts to 1/2 of the specified torque, then to the final torque, in a crisscross
pattern.
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4831
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4832
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4834
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4835
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4836
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4837
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4838
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4839
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4840
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4841
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4845
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4847
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4848
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4849
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4850
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4851
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4852
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4853
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4854
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps
and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4856
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4857
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4858
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
4859
Circuit Diagram
A/T Gear Position Indicator Circuit Diagram
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays
and Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and
Diagnostic Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during a
troubleshooting procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you are returning from the DLC circuit
troubleshooting, skip steps 5 to 6, and clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 9. Disconnect the
negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.
10. Remove the battery. 11. Remove the PCM cover (A).
12. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
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and Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Pinout Values and
Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4870
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install a known-good PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
16. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 17. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 18. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 19. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 20. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 21. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in steps 6, clean the throttle body. 22. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 23. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 24. Enter the anti-theft code for
the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock
(on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch connector.
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK. If there is no continuity
between any terminals, go to step 5. 5. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end
of the selector control shaft (A).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4880
6. If the measurement of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace the
transmission range switch. If the measurement is out of the
standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range switch
continuity.
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and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4881
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
1. Shift to N. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 3. Disconnect the
transmission range switch connector, and remove the control shaft cover (A).
4. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 5. Move the control shaft from the P position to the N
position by turning the selector control shaft using a 6.0 mm wrench.
NOTE: Do not use the selector control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the control shaft tips are
squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the selector control
shaft and the transmission range switch.
6. To set up a new transmission range switch (A), align the cutouts (B) on the rotary-frame with the
neutral positioning cutouts (C) on the
transmission range switch. Then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to
hold the transmission range switch in the A/T position.
NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to hold the transmission range switch
in the N position.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4882
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts (A) on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position.
Do not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector
securely.
10. Install the control shaft cover on the transmission range switch.
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and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations > Page 4883
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
12. Check that the engine starts in P and N, and does not start in any other shift lever position. 13.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 14. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or
apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is
supported securely. 15. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the
shift lever operation. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT input shaft
(drive pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft
(Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4893
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Output Shaft (Driven Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT output shaft
(driven pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed
sensor (A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor in
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information > Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft
(Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4894
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Speed Sensor Replacement
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT speed sensor, then install the CVT speed sensor in the
transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector
securely. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - CVT > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, CVT > Component Information > Locations
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT start clutch pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 4 and No. 8.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 4, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT start clutch pressure control
Clutch Control Solenoid Valve: Testing and Inspection Start Clutch Pressure Control Calibration
Procedures
Do the start clutch pressure control calibration procedures whenever you do any of these actions: ^
Replace PCM
^ Reset PCM
^ Update PCM
1. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind the driver's dashboard lower cover, and go to
the A/T Mode Menu.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. 4. Follow the HDS screen prompts in the Start Clutch
Feedback Learn (see the HDS Operator's manual).
4. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 5. Connect the HDS to the DLC, and follow the screen
prompts to short-circuit the SCS signal terminal using the tester menu. 6. Press the brake pedal,
and continue pressing the pedal until the calibration is completed. 7. Start the engine without load
condition, but turn the headlights on. The headlights must be on during calibration. 8. Shift the shift
lever to N, shift to D, S, then L, and return to N. Repeat this shifting pattern three times within 20
seconds after the engine is started. 9. Check that the D indicator comes on when the shift lever is
in N, then goes off in 1 minute.
10. If the D indicator blinks or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the
ignition switch to LOCK (0), and restart the
11. Shift to D, and check that the D indicator comes on, then goes off. 12. If the D indicator blinks
or does not come on, or if the indicator comes on and stays on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK
(0), and restart the
13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) to complete the procedure. 14. Test-drive the vehicle to
verify that a problem does not occur on the start clutch pressure control system.
1. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on). 2. Make sure
that the MIL does not come on and the D indicator does not blink. If the MIL comes on or the D
indicator blinks, check the fuel and
3. Start the engine without load (headlights, audio system, blower fan, rear window defogger, A/C,
etc.), and let it idle. 4. Check that the IMA charge gauge indicates no segments. If the IMA charge
gauge indicates any segments, hold the engine speed between 3,500
rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery level gauge (BAT)
indicates at least three segments.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > CVT Start Clutch Pressure Control Valve Solenoid Test > Page 4908
5. Drive the vehicle with the shift lever in D until the vehicle speed reaches 37 mph (60 km/h), then
release the accelerator and decelerate without
pressing the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
6. Test-drive the vehicle for several minutes, and make sure the engine does not stall or flare when
starting off.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Clutch Control Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 4909
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT start clutch pressure control valve
connector (A).
3. Remove the CVT start clutch pressure control valve (B). 4. Check that the filter (C) is in good
condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Install a new CVT start clutch pressure control
valve with the dowel pins (D) and the separator plate (E) on the lower valve body (F). 6. Connect
the CVT start clutch pressure control valve connector. 7. Install the lower valve body.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Fail Safe Solenoid Valve, CVT > Component Information >
Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the inhibitor solenoid resistance between solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5
and body ground.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wire is
OK, replace the inhibitor solenoid. 5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to
solenoid harness connector terminal No. 5, and connect another jumper wire from the
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the inhibitor solenoid connector (A).
3. Remove the inhibitor solenoid (B). 4. Install a new inhibitor solenoid on the CVT driven pulley
pressure control valve. 5. Connect the inhibitor solenoid connector. 6. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component
Information > Diagrams
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 3 and No. 7.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 3, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT drive pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Testing and Inspection CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Solenoid Test
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the solenoid harness
connector.
3. Measure the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve solenoid resistance between solenoid
harness connector terminals No. 2 and No. 6.
4. If the resistance is out of standard, check for open or short in the solenoid harness. If the wires
are OK, replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
control valve.
5. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to solenoid harness connector terminal
No. 2, and connect another jumper wire from the
6. If no sound is heard, remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve, and clean it, then
recheck. Replace the CVT driven pulley pressure
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Remove the solenoid harness clamp (A).
3. Disconnect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector (B). 4. Remove the seven
bolts, and remove the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve (C). The CVT start clutch pressure
control valve (D) can also be
removed.
5. Check that the filters (E) are in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 6. Install a
new CVT drive pulley pressure control valve with the dowel pins (F) and the separator plate (G),
and the CVT start clutch pressure
control valve with the dowel pins (H) and the separator plate (I) on the lower valve body (J).
7. Connect the CVT drive pulley pressure control valve connector. 8. Install the solenoid harness
clamp. 9. Install the lower valve body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - CVT > Pressure Regulating Solenoid, CVT > Component
Information > Service and Repair > CVT Drive Pulley Pressure Control Valve Replacement > Page 4924
Pressure Regulating Solenoid: Service and Repair CVT Driven Pulley Pressure Control Valve
Replacement
1. Remove the lower valve body. 2. Disconnect the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve
connector (A) and the inhibitor solenoid connector (B).
3. Remove the CVT driven pulley pressure control valve (C), and remove the inhibitor solenoid (D)
from the CVT driven pulley pressure control
valve.
4. Check that the filter (E) is in good condition, replace it if it is clogged or damaged. 5. Replace the
0-rings (F) on the inhibitor solenoid, if necessary. 6. Install the inhibitor solenoid on a new CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve. 7. Install a new CVT driven pulley pressure control valve with
the dowel pins (G) and the separator plate (H) on the lower valve body (I). 8. Connect the CVT
driven pulley pressure control valve connector and the inhibitor solenoid connector. 9. Install the
lower valve body.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4933
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4935
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4936
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4937
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4938
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4939
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4940
How to Identify Connector Terminals
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4941
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4942
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4946
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4948
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4949
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4950
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4951
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4952
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4953
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4954
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4955
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4956
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4957
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4958
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4959
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Testing for Voltage Drop
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Lamps and Indicators -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Lamps and Indicators - A/T > Shift Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 4960
Circuit Diagram
A/T Gear Position Indicator Circuit Diagram
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters
^ Honda interface module (HIM) and iN workstation with HDS and CM update software
NOTE: Use this procedure when you need to substitute a known-good PCM during a
troubleshooting procedures.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Connect the HDS to the DLC (A) located behind
the driver's dashboard lower cover.
3. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 4. Make sure the HDS communicates with the PCM. If it does
not, go to the DLC circuit troubleshooting. If you are returning from the DLC circuit
troubleshooting, skip steps 5 to 6, and clean the throttle body after substituting the PCM.
5. Select the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS. 6. Select the ETCS TEST, then select the TP
POSITION CHECK, and follow the screen prompts.
7. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 8. Jump the SCS line with the HDS. 9. Disconnect the
negative cable from the battery, then disconnect the positive cable.
10. Remove the battery. 11. Remove the PCM cover (A).
12. Remove the bolts (D), and remove the PCM (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - CVT > Control Module, CVT > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection > Pinout Values and Diagnostic Parameters > Page 4971
NOTE: PCM connectors A, B, and C have symbols (A=Square, B=Triangle, C=Circle) embossed
on them for identification.
14. Install a known-good PCM and the battery in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: If the IMA battery level indicator (BAT) on the gauge indicates zero level, start the engine,
and hold it between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the IMA battery
level indicator (BAT) indicates at least three segments.
NOTE: DTC P0630 "VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch" may be stored because the VIN has not
been programmed into the PCM; ignore it, and continue this procedure.
16. Manually input the VIN to the PCM with the HDS. 17. Update the PCM if it does not have the
latest software. 18. Select the IMMOBI SYSTEM with the HDS. 19. Enter the immobilizer code with
the PCM replacement procedure in the HDS; it allows you to start the engine. 20. Reset the PCM
with the HDS. 21. If the TP POSITION CHECK failed in steps 6, clean the throttle body. 22. Do the
PCM idle learn procedure. 23. Do the CKP pattern learn procedure. 24. Enter the anti-theft code for
the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock
(on vehicles
without navigation).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the transmission range
switch connector.
3. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector. There should be continuity
between the terminals in the following table for each
switch position.
4. Transmission range switch test is completed if the test results are OK. If there is no continuity
between any terminals, go to step 5. 5. Remove the transmission range switch, and check the end
of the selector control shaft (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4981
6. If the measurement of the selector control shaft end is within the standard, replace the
transmission range switch. If the measurement is out of the
standard, repair the selector control shaft end, and recheck the transmission range switch
continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4982
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
Transmission Range Switch Replacement
1. Shift to N. 2. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 3. Disconnect the
transmission range switch connector, and remove the control shaft cover (A).
4. Remove the transmission range switch (B). 5. Move the control shaft from the P position to the N
position by turning the selector control shaft using a 6.0 mm wrench.
NOTE: Do not use the selector control shaft to adjust the shift position. If the control shaft tips are
squeezed together it will cause a faulty signal or position due to play between the selector control
shaft and the transmission range switch.
6. To set up a new transmission range switch (A), align the cutouts (B) on the rotary-frame with the
neutral positioning cutouts (C) on the
transmission range switch. Then put a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) feeler gauge blade (D) in the cutouts to
hold the transmission range switch in the A/T position.
NOTE: Be sure to use a 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade or equivalent to hold the transmission range switch
in the N position.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4983
7. Install the transmission range switch (A) gently on the selector control shaft (B) while holding it in
the N position with the 2.0 mm (0.08 in.) blade
(C).
8. Tighten the bolts (A) on the transmission range switch while you continue to hold the N position.
Do not move the transmission range switch when
9. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, clean or repair if necessary, then connect the connector
securely.
10. Install the control shaft cover on the transmission range switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, CVT > Component
Information > Locations > Page 4984
11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Move the shift lever through all positions, and check the
transmission range switch synchronization with the
12. Check that the engine starts in P and N, and does not start in any other shift lever position. 13.
Check that the back-up lights come on when the shift lever is in R. 14. Raise the vehicle on a lift, or
apply the parking brake, block the rear wheels, and raise the front of the vehicle. Make sure it is
supported securely. 15. Allow the front wheels to rotate freely, then start the engine, and check the
shift lever operation. 16. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information
> Locations
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT input shaft
(drive pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor
(A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT input shaft (drive pulley) speed sensor in the
transmission housing.
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information
> Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4994
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Output Shaft (Driven Pulley) Speed Sensor
Replacement
1. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct. 2. Disconnect the CVT output shaft
(driven pulley) speed sensor connector, then remove the CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed
sensor (A).
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor, then install the
CVT output shaft (driven pulley) speed sensor in
4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector securely. 5. Install the air
cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Speed Sensor, CVT > Component Information
> Service and Repair > CVT Input Shaft (Drive Pulley) Speed Sensor Replacement > Page 4995
Transmission Speed Sensor: Service and Repair CVT Speed Sensor Replacement
3. Install a new 0-ring (B) on a new CVT speed sensor, then install the CVT speed sensor in the
transmission housing. 4. Check the connector for rust, dirt, or oil, then connect the connector
securely. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and the intake air duct.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches -
Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - CVT > Transmission Temperature Sensor/Switch, CVT >
Component Information > Locations
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 5009
5. Check the brake pedal free play. 6. Do the sensor 0 (zero) position memorization. See: Brake
Pedal Assy/Service and Repair/Memorizing 0 (Zero) Position
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
Electronic Brake Control Module: Diagrams Control Module Pinout Values, ABS
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 1)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > ABS Modulator-Control Unit > Page 5019
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 2)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5020
The control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel speed sensor signals it received, then
it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the
vehicle speed during deceleration based on the wheel speeds.
The control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel, and transmits the control signal to the
modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high.
The hydraulic control has three modes: Pressure intensifying, pressure reducing, and pressure
retaining.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5021
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 1)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5022
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 2)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic Brake
Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5023
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector (A) by pulling up the lock (B); the connector disconnects itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the ABS modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (C) and to the right-front (D), the left-rear
(E), the right-rear (F), and the left-front (G) brake systems.
4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (H) with the brackets (I) from the body. 5. Remove the
ABS modulator-control unit from the brackets. 6. Separate the bracket if necessary.
Installation
1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit onto the brackets. 2. Install the bracket with the ABS
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector to the ABS modulator-control unit. 5. Lower the lock of the ABS modulator-control unit
25P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system (except the
servo unit and power unit). 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 8.
Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system (except the servo unit and
power unit) again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Fail Safe Relay,
ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Diagrams
Modulator Unit
The ABS modulator consists of the inlet solenoid valve, the outlet solenoid valve, the reservoir, the
pump, the pump motor, and the damping chamber. The modulator reduces the caliper fluid
pressure directly. It is a circulating-type modulator because the brake fluid circulates through the
caliper, the reservoir, and the master cylinder. The hydraulic control has three modes; pressure
intensifying, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing. The hydraulic circuit is an independent four
channel type; one channel for each wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic Control
Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations > Page 5035
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector (A) by pulling up the lock (B); the connector disconnects itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the ABS modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (C) and to the right-front (D), the left-rear
(E), the right-rear (F), and the left-front (G) brake systems.
4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (H) with the brackets (I) from the body. 5. Remove the
ABS modulator-control unit from the brackets. 6. Separate the bracket if necessary.
Installation
1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit onto the brackets. 2. Install the bracket with the ABS
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector to the ABS modulator-control unit. 5. Lower the lock of the ABS modulator-control unit
25P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system (except the
servo unit and power unit). 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 8.
Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system (except the servo unit and
power unit) again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Front
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the connector clamp (A), then disconnect the
wheel speed sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check
that the ABS indicator does not come on.
Rear
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the connector clamp (A), then disconnect the
wheel speed sensor connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 5044
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing unit, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check
that the ABS indicator does not come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not be compatible.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the power unit may operate (you can hear the motor
sound).
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the brake pedal several times. 3. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then turn it to ON (II) again. 4. Wait several seconds for the brake fluid in the
subreservoir (A) to stabilize.
NOTE: Do not operate the brake pedal while doing this procedure.
5. Check that the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (B).
Fluid Removal
NOTE: Because the conventional brake system and the AHB system use the same brake fluid
reservoir, fluid removal is necessary in order to purge old fluid from the AHB system.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Press the brake pedal 20 times to release the pressure
in the accumulator. 3. Attach a length of drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) on the caliper or
wheel cylinder.
4. Loosen the bleed screw, and pump the brake pedal until brake fluid stops coming out. 5.
Remove the air cleaner. 6. Remove the IMA system power cable clamp (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 5048
7. Disconnect the auxiliary electric water pump connector (A).
8. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) under the servo unit (C), and loosen
the bleed screw.
NOTE: Do not operate the pump motor for more than 110 seconds or it may be damaged.
10. When the brake fluid is drained out, tighten the bleed screw, then turn the ignition switch to
LOCK (0).
NOTE: After draining the brake fluid from the servo unit and the power unit, the sound of the power
unit function changes.
NOTE: ^
The brake fluid reservoir tank must beat least 1/2full at the start of the bleeding procedure and
checked after bleeding each brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Add fluid as required.
^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while doing this procedure.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Press the brake pedal several times until it becomes a
hard brake pedal to release the pressure in the accumulator. 3. Make sure the brake fluid level in
the reservoir tank (A) is at the middle of the tank line (B).
4. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 5. Start
the bleeding at the driver's side of the front brake system.
NOTE: Bleed the calipers or the wheel cylinders in the sequence shown.
6. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B), then loosen the bleed screw to
allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check for the AHB indicator or brake system indicator to
come on in the gauge control module (tach).
^ If the indicator(s) come on and stay on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and do the servo unit
and power unit bleeding procedure.
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Do the normal brake system bleeding (except the servo unit and
power unit). 3. Remove the IMA system power cable clamp (A).
6. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) under the servo unit (C), and loosen
the bleed screw.
7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and add the brake fluid to the reservoir tank.
NOTE: Do not operate the pump motor for more than 110 seconds or it may be damaged.
8. Make sure the brake fluid is discharged from the bleed screw to allow air to escape from the
system, then tighten the bleed screw securely. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
10. Add the brake fluid in the reservoir tank, and keep it at the middle of the tank line. 11. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 12. Wait several seconds until the AHB indicator and/or brake system
indicator goes off. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Page 5052
14. Press the brake pedal 20 times. 15. Wait about 5 minutes. 16. Repeat step 11 to step 15 two
times. 17. Make sure the bleed screw is tightened. 18. Inspect the brake fluid level. 19. Check the
brake pedal stroke. 20. Install all removed parts and reconnect all connectors. 21. Clear the DTC
with the HDS, if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Adjustments
Brake Pedal Assy: Adjustments
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
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Page 5056
5. Check the brake pedal free play. 6. Do the sensor 0 (zero) position memorization. See: Service
and Repair/Memorizing 0 (Zero) Position
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
servo unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Clear the DTC(s) by following the screen
prompts on the HDS. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
7. Check for DTCs and make sure no DTC is indicated, then memorize the 0 (zero) position of the
brake pedal stroke sensor and the servo unit by
NOTE: ^
^ If the memorization process does not work, replace the servo unit.
2. Disconnect the brake pedal stroke sensor connector (B). 3. Remove the lock pin (C) and joint pin
(D). 4. Remove the brake pedal bracket mounting bolt (E) and nuts (F). 5. Remove the brake pedal
with bracket (G). 6. Install the brake pedal in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE: Make sure movement of the brake pedal and the brake pedal stroke sensor.
7. Do the brake pedal and brake pedal position switch adjustment. See: Adjustments 8. Do the
sensor 0 (zero) position memorization. See: Memorizing 0 (Zero) Position
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Pedal Assy > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Memorizing 0 (Zero) Position > Page 5060
Brake Pedal Assy: Service and Repair Brake Pedal Stroke Sensor Replacement
1. Remove the brake pedal. 2. Remove the bolts (A), and remove the brake pedal stroke sensor
(B).
3. Install the brake pedal stroke sensor in the reverse order of removal. 4. Do the sensor 0 (zero)
position memorization. See: Memorizing 0 (Zero) Position
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5065
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5066
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5068
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5069
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5070
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5071
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5072
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5073
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5074
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5075
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5079
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5081
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5082
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5083
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5084
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5085
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5086
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5087
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5088
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5089
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5090
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5091
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5092
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5093
Buzzer Replacement
1. Remove the subdisplay visor. 2. Remove the clip (A), and disconnect the buzzer 2P connector
(B).
3. Remove the buzzer (C). 4. Install the buzzer in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the BUZZER
ON in the FUNCTION TEST with the HDS, and check that the buzzer can sound.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
Inspection
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and the outer pad (C). Do
not include the thickness of the backing plate.
4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set. 5.
Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels.
Replacement
1. Remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and
support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the front wheels. 4. Remove the
flange bolt (A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin
boot, and pivot the caliper (C) up out
of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5100
5. Remove the pad return springs (A).
8. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5101
smoothly. Clean and lube the pins if needed.
9. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks.
10. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers and their mating
surfaces (indicated by the arrows) on the caliper
bracket.
11. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly
paste off the brake disc and brake pads. 12. Install the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on
the caliper body (B).
13. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake
pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to
NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's
reservoir.
14. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool. 15. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste
(P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B), and the other
areas
indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste
off the brake disc and the brake pads.
16. Install the brake pads and the pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator
(C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the
brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss
of braking efficiency.
18. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified
torque while holding the caliper pin (B) with a
19. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels. 20. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have
been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal
stroke.
21. Add brake fluid as needed. 22. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or
connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5103
CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items:
NOTE: Make sure that the caliper pins are installed correctly. Upper caliper pin B and lower caliper
pin A are different. If these caliper pins are installed in the wrong location, it will cause vibration,
uneven or rapid brake pad wear, and possibly uneven tire wear.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent dripping brake fluid, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels.
^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets in the brake fluid.
^ When reusing brake pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of
braking efficiency.
^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Coat the piston, the piston seal groove, and the caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications
Brake Pads
Front
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5107
CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
Inspection
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and the outer pad (C). Do
not include the thickness of the backing plate.
4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set. 5.
Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels.
Replacement
1. Remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and
support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the front wheels. 4. Remove the
flange bolt (A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin
boot, and pivot the caliper (C) up out
of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5108
5. Remove the pad return springs (A).
8. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5109
smoothly. Clean and lube the pins if needed.
9. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks.
10. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers and their mating
surfaces (indicated by the arrows) on the caliper
bracket.
11. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly
paste off the brake disc and brake pads. 12. Install the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on
the caliper body (B).
13. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake
pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to
NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's
reservoir.
14. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool. 15. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste
(P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B), and the other
areas
indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste
off the brake disc and the brake pads.
16. Install the brake pads and the pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator
(C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the
brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss
of braking efficiency.
18. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified
torque while holding the caliper pin (B) with a
19. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels. 20. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have
been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal
stroke.
21. Add brake fluid as needed. 22. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or
connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information
00-088
(Supersedes 00-088, dated October 6, 2006, to revise the information marked with the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
American Honda does not allow replacement of brake discs under warranty unless the brake disc
is beyond its service limit for refinishing. If the brake disc is within its service limit, you must refinish
it. Maximum refinishing limits may be found in the Conventional Brakes section of the appropriate
service manual.
*Refinish brake discs only when they are scored or out of specification for runout or parallelism.
See the appropriate service manual for the specifications.*
American Honda requires refinishing of the front brake discs with an on-car brake lathe that mounts
to the steering knuckle. Use of an on-car, steering knuckle- mounted lathe is critical because it
corrects runout of the hub and disc as an assembly. Experience has shown that very small
amounts of runout, not felt as brake pulsation initially, will grow and become noticeable as the discs
are subjected to heat and wear over time and mileage. Two on-car brake lathes are recommended.
The Kwik-Lathe, model number KWY-108000501, is supported with automatic shipments of
adapters for new models, when required. The Accu-turn On-car Brake Lathe, model
ACCHONOCLPKG, is also recommended.
A power driver is required for the 82000 and is highly recommended for all other models. The
Kwik-Lathe power driver model number is KWY-108012005; the Accu-turn lathe includes a power
driver. Here are some advantages of using power drivers:
^ The disc is rotated at the optimum speed for a smooth and consistent cut.
^ There is no need to climb in and out of the vehicle to start and stop the engine or to shift the
transmission.
^ There is no waiting for the engine to return to idle and no concern about engine speed changes
that can adversely affect brake disc cut and finish.
ORDERING INFORMATION
Order brake lathes and power drivers through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program. To place
an order, call or use the fax order form provided in your Honda Tool and Equipment Program
Catalog. Phone lines are open Monday thru Friday from 7:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Central Time. You
can also order online through the Interactive Network (iN). Click on Service, Tool and Equipment,
and then Online Catalog. Click on Alignment, Wheel, and Brake Equipment, and then On-Car
Brake Lathes.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
The following guidelines show the Kwik-Way lathe setup, the Accu-turn lathe setup is similar.
Put the transmission in Neutral. If you are not using the power drive system, start the engine, and
let it warm up to its normal operating temperature so the idle speed will stabilize to its lowest rpm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5115
Raise the vehicle on a lift.
Check for loose wheel bearings. You must replace loose wheel bearings before you refinish the
brake discs. If you do not, the brake lathe will not correct for brake disc runout, resulting in an
uneven finish and brake pulsation.
Remove the front wheels, then reinstall the wheel nuts with flat washers to compensate for the
removed wheel. Torque the wheel nuts to the required specification (see the appropriate service
manual).
Remove the caliper assembly. Use a wire or a S-hook to hold the caliper to the spring or damper
tower. Do not kink the brake hose or use it to support the caliper. If you are not using the power
drive system and the vehicle has ICS or VSA, make sure you install a brake pad spreader between
the pads on the hanging caliper. Also, make sure the ICS or VSA is turned off anytime the engine
is started. If the system is not turned off, the brakes could activate, causing the brake pads on the
hanging caliper to hit each other or the caliper pistons to fall out.
Install the vibration damper on the brake disc. If you are not using the power drive system, make
sure you install the protective band around the wheel nuts.
If you are not using the power drive system, use a fabric tie-down strap to secure the brake disc
that is opposite to the one you are refinishing. If you are working on a Prelude with ATTS, do not
use a tie-down strap; let both wheels turn freely.
Remove the tool bed from the brake lathe, then mount the brake lathe to the steering knuckle with
a Honda 1-piece speed mount. These mounts provide quicker, more accurate mounting, and can
be ordered through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5116
Honda 1-Piece Speed Mounts
P/N KWY-108006000 (for most models), P/N KWY-108007500 (Odysseys, Pilots, and Ridgelines
with two-piston calipers)
1. Make sure the drive motor assembly on the power drive system is level with the brake disc.
2. Attach the mounting yoke to the brake disc, and secure it with one of the wheel nuts. Torque the
wheel nut to the required specification (see the
4. Set the lower toggle switch on the drive motor assembly to FWD (counterclockwise rotation) or
REV (clockwise rotation).
Use Kwik-Way cutting bits, P/N KWY-109109223, and the holding screws that come with them.
These bits are stamped KW and are available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Before you use the brake lathe, inspect the tips of the cutting bits with a magnifying glass to make
sure the tips are not worn out. Each bit has three tips. If a tip is worn, rotate the bit, and use a new
tip. A worn tip produces a poor finish and may cause chattering.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5118
Reinstall the tool bed on the brake lathe with the top of the cutting bits facing up and the feed
knobs facing down. Adjust the tool bed until the brake disc is centered between the cutting bits. For
proper refinishing, the brake disc must turn toward the top of the cutting bits.
Do not set the cutting depth on the brake lathe to more than 0.2 mm (0.008 in.). This is two
divisions on the cutting knob. Make sure you start your cut at least 3 mm (0.12 in.) beyond the worn
area on the brake disc.
If you are cutting larger diameter brake discs, make sure you use the 150 cutting bit holders. These
bit holders, available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program (see ORDERING
INFORMATION), supersede the original bit holders and provide better cutting coverage for larger
diameter brake discs. Each bit holder is clearly marked for proper installation on the tool holder.
To get the smoothest cut and the best brake disc finish, always use the slowest feed speed on the
tool bed feed motor. Place the drive belt on the smallest pulley of the feed motor and on the largest
pulley of the hand wheel.
Make sure the lower toggle switch on the power drive system drive motor assembly is set to the
proper rotation to turn the brake disc toward the top of the cutting bits. Plug the tool bed feed motor
into the power outlet on the drive motor assembly, then turn on the drive motor with the upper
toggle switch on the assembly.
If you are not using the power drive system, make sure the transmission is in 1st gear (2nd gear on
Preludes with ATTS) or Reverse and the engine is idling, but not at a fast idle. If the transmission
and engine are at higher gears and speeds, you will damage the cutting bits.
Turn on the tool bed feed motor, and snap it into place; there should be tension on the feed belt.
Cut the brake disc until the cutting bits clear the outer edge of the disc. The cutting bits should
produce a smooth, consistent finish with no chatter marks or grooves.
If the disc did not clean up entirely on the first pass, reset the brake lathe and make a second pass.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Brake Disc Refinishing Information > Page 5119
Remove the vibration damper and the protective band (if used). Use a micrometer to measure the
thickness of the brake disc. Make sure the thickness is within the service manual specifications.
Clean the brake disc with soapy water or brake cleaner, then wipe it dry. Use a vacuum cleaner to
remove any dust or chips, but do not use compressed air.
Unplug the tool bed feed motor from the drive motor assembly, and remove the mounting yoke
from the brake disc. Remove the speed mount from the steering knuckle.
Apply a small amount of Molykote 77 grease to the brake pad shims. Reinstall the caliper
assembly. (If you did not use the power drive system, use the brake pad spreader to push the
pistons back into the caliper.)
Torque the nuts and bolts to the required specification (see the appropriate service manual).
Refinish the other front brake disc using the same guidelines.
Check the brake fluid level, then test-drive the vehicle to make sure the brake pedal is firm and
does not pulsate. Lightly apply the brakes about 20 times during the test-drive to seat the brake
pads.
It is possible to use an on-car lathe on some models if the rear caliper mounts are low enough to
clear the vehicle body. A power driver is needed for front drive models. Refinish rear brake discs on
bench-mounted equipment if necessary.
Follow the same guidelines you used for refinishing front brake discs, noting these differences:
^ Mount the brake lathe to the rear knuckle with the Honda 2-Piece Adapter (P/N KWY-1
08102504). You can order the 2-piece adapter through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program
(see ORDERING INFORMATION).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5120
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications
Brake Rotor/Disc
Front
Runout
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the brake pads. 4. Inspect the brake disc surface for damage
and cracks. Clean the brake disc thoroughly, and remove all rust. 5. Install suitable flat washers (A)
and wheel nuts (B), and tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque to hold the brake disc
securely against the
hub.
6. Set up the dial gauge against the brake disc as shown, and measure the runout at 10 mm (3/8
in.) from the outer edge of the brake disc.
7. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit, refinish the brake disc with a commercially available
on-car brake lathe.
NOTE: ^
If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it.
^ A new brake disc should be refinished if its runout is greater than 0.04 mm (0.0016 in.).
Replace the brake disc if the smallest measurement is less than the maximum refinishing limit.
Standard: 20.9 - 21.1 mm (0.82 - 0.83 in.) Max. refinishing limit: 19.0 mm (0.75 in.)
NOTE: This is the maximum allowable difference between the thickness measurements.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5122
5. If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for parallelism, refinish the brake disc with a
commercially available on-car brake lathe.
NOTE: If the brake disc is beyond the service limit for refinishing, replace it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5123
NOTE: Keep any grease off the brake disc and brake pads.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheel. 3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), and remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
NOTE: If the brake disc is stuck to the front hub, thread two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (C) into the brake
disc to push it away from the front hub. Turn each bolt 90 degrees at a time to prevent the brake
disc from binding.
NOTE: Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of
the brake disc.
8. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications
Brake Drum
Rear
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5128
CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
Avoid breathing dust particles.
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheels. 3. Release the parking brake, and remove the rear brake drum.
5. Check the brake linings (B) for cracking, glazing, wear, and contamination.
6. Measure the brake lining thickness (C). Measurement does not include brake shoe thickness.
7. If the brake lining thickness is less than the service limit, replace the brake shoes as a set. 8.
Check the hub bearing unit (D) for smooth operation. If it requires servicing, replace the hub
bearing unit. 9. Measure the inside diameter of the brake drum with inside vernier calipers.
10. If the inside diameter of the brake drum is more than the service limit, replace the brake drum.
11. Check the brake drum for scoring, grooves, corrosion, and cracks. 12. Clean the mating
surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the rear wheels.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5130
NOTE: Keep any grease off the brake drum and brake shoes.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum (A) from the hub bearing
unit.
NOTE: ^
If necessary, turn the adjuster bolt (B) with a flat-tip screwdriver until the shoes become loose.
^ If the brake drum is stuck to the hub bearing unit, thread two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts (C) into the brake
drum to push it away from the hub bearing unit. Turn each bolt 90 degrees at a time to prevent the
brake drum from binding.
NOTE: ^
Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub bearing unit and the
inside of the brake-drum.
^ After installation, press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work and self
adjust the brake shoes. Do not drive the vehicle before doing this procedure.
5. Clean the outside mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the wheel, then install the
rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications
Brake Shoe: Specifications
Brake Shoe
Rear
Standard ..............................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 4.5 mm (0.18 in.)
CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
Disassembly
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheels. 3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Unhook the upper
return spring (A) from the rearward shoe using the brake spring installer (B).
5. Remove the tension pins (A) by pushing respective retainer spring (B) and turning the pin.
6. Remove the lower return spring (A), and remove the brake shoe assembly over the hub.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5135
7. Remove the forward brake shoe (B) by removing the upper return spring (C), and disassemble
the brake shoe assembly. 8. Remove the rearward brake shoe (D) by disconnecting the parking
brake cable from the parking brake lever (E). 9. Remove the U-clip (A), and the wave washer (B),
then separate the parking brake lever (C) from the brake shoe (D).
Reassembly
1. Apply rubber grease to the sliding surface of the pivot pin (A) on the parking brake lever (B).
2. Install the rearward brake shoe (C) and the wave washer (D) on the pivot pin, and secure with a
new U-clip (E).
NOTE: Pinch the U-clip securely to prevent the parking brake lever from coming out of the brake
shoe.
3. Connect the parking brake cable to the parking brake lever. 4. Apply a thin coat of rubber grease
to the connecting rod ends (A), and the sliding surfaces (B) as shown. Wipe off any excess. Keep
grease off the
brake linings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5136
5. Apply a thin coat of Molykote 44MA grease to the shoe ends (A) and to the edge of the shoe
surfaces (B) that make contact with the backing plate
as shown. Wipe off any excess. Keep grease off the brake linings.
NOTE: ^
Clean the threaded portions of connecting rod A and the sliding surface of connecting rod B, then
coat them with rubber grease.
7. Assemble the brake shoes, the upper return spring (D), and the connecting rods with the
adjuster bolt against the backing plate, then install the
self-adjuster lever (E) and the self-adjuster spring (F) on the forward brake shoe (G).
8. Install the tension pins (A) and the retainer springs (B) by pushing in the respective spring and
turning the pin.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 5137
9. Install the lower return spring.
NOTE: Make sure the brake shoes positioning on the brake shoe bosses of the backing plate, and
fitting the top of the brake shoes onto the wheel cylinder pistons.
10. Hook the end (A) of the upper return spring (B) with the brake spring installer (C).
NOTE: Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the rear hub and the inside of
the brake drum.
12. Install the rear wheels. 13. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work
and to set the self-adjusting brake.
NOTE: Engagement of the brakes may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake
shoes have been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal
pedal stroke.
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
1. Remove the brake shoes. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
3. Remove the bolts (C) and the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
4. Apply Cemedine 366E sealant or equivalent between the wheel cylinder and backing plate (D),
and install the wheel cylinder, then connect the
brake line.
5. Install the brake shoes. 6. Bleed the normal brake system (except the servo unit and power unit).
7. Do the parking brake inspection and adjustment. See: Parking Brake System/Adjustments 8.
Spin the wheels to check for brake drag. 9. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints
or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then check for leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Do not reuse the drained fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid; they may not be compatible.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter is allowed to contaminate the brake fluid.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle, it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the
paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the power unit may operate (you can hear the motor
sound).
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Press the brake pedal several times. 3. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then turn it to ON (II) again. 4. Wait several seconds for the brake fluid in the
subreservoir (A) to stabilize.
NOTE: Do not operate the brake pedal while doing this procedure.
5. Check that the brake fluid level in the reservoir is at the MAX (upper) level line (B).
Fluid Removal
NOTE: Because the conventional brake system and the AHB system use the same brake fluid
reservoir, fluid removal is necessary in order to purge old fluid from the AHB system.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Press the brake pedal 20 times to release the pressure
in the accumulator. 3. Attach a length of drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) on the caliper or
wheel cylinder.
4. Loosen the bleed screw, and pump the brake pedal until brake fluid stops coming out. 5.
Remove the air cleaner. 6. Remove the IMA system power cable clamp (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 5145
7. Disconnect the auxiliary electric water pump connector (A).
8. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) under the servo unit (C), and loosen
the bleed screw.
NOTE: Do not operate the pump motor for more than 110 seconds or it may be damaged.
10. When the brake fluid is drained out, tighten the bleed screw, then turn the ignition switch to
LOCK (0).
NOTE: After draining the brake fluid from the servo unit and the power unit, the sound of the power
unit function changes.
NOTE: ^
The brake fluid reservoir tank must beat least 1/2full at the start of the bleeding procedure and
checked after bleeding each brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Add fluid as required.
^ Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) while doing this procedure.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Press the brake pedal several times until it becomes a
hard brake pedal to release the pressure in the accumulator. 3. Make sure the brake fluid level in
the reservoir tank (A) is at the middle of the tank line (B).
4. Have someone slowly pump the brake pedal several times, then apply steady pressure. 5. Start
the bleeding at the driver's side of the front brake system.
NOTE: Bleed the calipers or the wheel cylinders in the sequence shown.
6. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B), then loosen the bleed screw to
allow air to escape from the system. Then tighten the
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and check for the AHB indicator or brake system indicator to
come on in the gauge control module (tach).
^ If the indicator(s) come on and stay on, turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and do the servo unit
and power unit bleeding procedure.
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Do the normal brake system bleeding (except the servo unit and
power unit). 3. Remove the IMA system power cable clamp (A).
6. Attach a length of clear drain tube (A) to the bleed screw (B) under the servo unit (C), and loosen
the bleed screw.
7. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and add the brake fluid to the reservoir tank.
NOTE: Do not operate the pump motor for more than 110 seconds or it may be damaged.
8. Make sure the brake fluid is discharged from the bleed screw to allow air to escape from the
system, then tighten the bleed screw securely. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
10. Add the brake fluid in the reservoir tank, and keep it at the middle of the tank line. 11. Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II). 12. Wait several seconds until the AHB indicator and/or brake system
indicator goes off. 13. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 5149
14. Press the brake pedal 20 times. 15. Wait about 5 minutes. 16. Repeat step 11 to step 15 two
times. 17. Make sure the bleed screw is tightened. 18. Inspect the brake fluid level. 19. Check the
brake pedal stroke. 20. Install all removed parts and reconnect all connectors. 21. Clear the DTC
with the HDS, if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
Inspection
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Check the thickness (A) of the inner pad (B) and the outer pad (C). Do
not include the thickness of the backing plate.
4. If the brake pad thickness is less than the service limit, replace the front brake pads as a set. 5.
Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels.
Replacement
1. Remove some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. 2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and
support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3. Remove the front wheels. 4. Remove the
flange bolt (A) while holding the caliper pin (B) with a wrench. Be careful not to damage the pin
boot, and pivot the caliper (C) up out
of the way. Check the hose and pin boots for damage and deterioration.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5154
5. Remove the pad return springs (A).
8. Clean the caliper bracket (B) thoroughly; remove any rust, and check for grooves and cracks.
Verify that the caliper pins (C) move in and out
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5155
smoothly. Clean and lube the pins if needed.
9. Inspect the brake disc, and check for damage and cracks.
10. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste (P/N 08798-9010) to the retainers and their mating
surfaces (indicated by the arrows) on the caliper
bracket.
11. Install the pad retainers. Wipe excess assembly paste off the retainers. Keep the assembly
paste off the brake disc and brake pads. 12. Install the brake caliper piston compressor tool (A) on
the caliper body (B).
13. Press in the piston with the brake caliper piston compressor so the caliper will fit over the brake
pads. Make sure the piston boot is in position to
NOTE: Be careful when pressing in the piston; brake fluid might overflow from the master cylinder's
reservoir.
14. Remove the brake caliper piston compressor tool. 15. Apply a thin coat of M-77 assembly paste
(P/N 08798-9010) to the pad side of the shims (A), the back of the brake pads (B), and the other
areas
indicated by the arrows. Wipe excess assembly paste off the pad shims and brake pads.
Contaminated brake discs or brake pads reduce stopping ability. Keep grease and assembly paste
off the brake disc and the brake pads.
16. Install the brake pads and the pad shims correctly. Install the brake pad with the wear indicator
(C) on the upper inside. If you are reusing the
brake pads, always reinstall the brake pads in their original positions to prevent a momentary loss
of braking efficiency.
18. Pivot the caliper down into position. Install the flange bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified
torque while holding the caliper pin (B) with a
19. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front
wheels. 20. Press the brake pedal several times to make sure the brakes work.
NOTE: Engagement may require a greater pedal stroke immediately after the brake pads have
been replaced as a set. Several applications of the brake pedal will restore the normal pedal
stroke.
21. Add brake fluid as needed. 22. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints or
connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then recheck for leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5157
CAUTION Frequent inhalation of brake pad dust, regardless of material composition, could be
hazardous to your health. ^
^ Never use an air hose or brush to clean brake assemblies. Use an OSHA-approved vacuum
cleaner.
Remove, disassemble, inspect, reassemble, and install the caliper, and note these items:
NOTE: Make sure that the caliper pins are installed correctly. Upper caliper pin B and lower caliper
pin A are different. If these caliper pins are installed in the wrong location, it will cause vibration,
uneven or rapid brake pad wear, and possibly uneven tire wear.
^ Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent dripping brake fluid, cover disconnected hose joints with rags or shop towels.
^ Clean all parts in brake fluid and air dry; blow out all passages with compressed air.
^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Replace parts with new ones as specified in the illustration.
^ Make sure no dirt or other foreign matter gets in the brake fluid.
^ When reusing brake pads, always reinstall them in their original positions to prevent loss of
braking efficiency.
^ Do not reuse drained brake fluid. Use only clean Honda DOT 3 Brake Fluid from an unopened
container. Using a non-Honda brake fluid can cause corrosion and shorten the life of the system.
^ Do not mix different brands of brake fluid as they may not be compatible.
^ Coat the piston, the piston seal groove, and the caliper bore with clean brake fluid.
^ After installing the caliper, check the brake hose and line for leaks, interference, and twisting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Specifications
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Check for continuity between the terminals (1) and (2) with the float in the down,position and in the
up position.
NOTE: ^
Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be
continuity.
^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the MAX (upper) level (A). With the float up, there should be
no continuity.
^ If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the same time,
check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
^ If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect the brake hoses for damage, deterioration, leaks, interference, and twisting. 2. Check the
brake lines for damage, rusting, and leaks. Also check for bent brake lines. 3. Check for leaks at
hose and line joints and connections, and retighten if necessary. 4. Check the master cylinder, the
servo unit, the power unit, and the ABS modulator-control unit for damage and leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5170
Brake Hose/Line: Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Replace parts with new ones whenever specified to do so. Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle;
it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
^ The illustrations show only the front of the vehicle except where the procedure is different for the
rear.
1. Remove the wheel. 2. Disconnect the brake hose (A) from the brake line (B) using a 10 mm
flare-nut wrench (C).
3. With clip type: Remove the brake hose clip (A) from the brake hose (B).
4. Disc brake type: Remove the banjo bolt (C), and disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. 5.
Remove the brake hose mounting bolt(s) (D), then remove the brake hose.
NOTE: Without clip type: Remove the brake hose with the bracket.
6. Install the brake hose (A) with the brake hose mounting bolt (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Hose/Line > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5171
7. Disc brake type: Connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo bolt (C) and the new
sealing washers (D). 8. Position the brake hose ends (A).
NOTE: ^
With clip type: Install the brake hose on the brake hose bracket (B) with a new brake hose clip (C).
^ Without clip type: Install the brake hose bracket (D) to the frame.
10. After installing the brake hose, bleed the normal brake system (except the servo unit and power
unit). 11. Do the following check:
^ Check the brake hose and line joint for leaks, and tighten if necessary.
12. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc or the brake drum and the inside of the wheel, then
install the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly -
Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations
Modulator Unit
The ABS modulator consists of the inlet solenoid valve, the outlet solenoid valve, the reservoir, the
pump, the pump motor, and the damping chamber. The modulator reduces the caliper fluid
pressure directly. It is a circulating-type modulator because the brake fluid circulates through the
caliper, the reservoir, and the master cylinder. The hydraulic control has three modes; pressure
intensifying, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing. The hydraulic circuit is an independent four
channel type; one channel for each wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly -
Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations > Page 5180
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector (A) by pulling up the lock (B); the connector disconnects itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the ABS modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (C) and to the right-front (D), the left-rear
(E), the right-rear (F), and the left-front (G) brake systems.
4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (H) with the brackets (I) from the body. 5. Remove the
ABS modulator-control unit from the brackets. 6. Separate the bracket if necessary.
Installation
1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit onto the brackets. 2. Install the bracket with the ABS
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector to the ABS modulator-control unit. 5. Lower the lock of the ABS modulator-control unit
25P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system (except the
servo unit and power unit). 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 8.
Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system (except the servo unit and
power unit) again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Master Cylinder: > 08-057 > Sep > 08 >
Brakes - Short, Buzzy Grunt Sound Upon Pedal Application
Brake Master Cylinder: Customer Interest Brakes - Short, Buzzy Grunt Sound Upon Pedal
Application
08-057
Brake System Makes a Short, Buzzy Grunt When the Brake Pedal Is Pressed
(Supersedes 08-057, dated August 23, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar)
SYMPTOM
The advanced hydraulic booster (AHB) system intermittently makes a pronounced short, buzzy
grunt when the brake pedal is pressed.
NOTE:
This bulletin does not address the faint hiss that is characteristic of normal operation when pressing
the brake pedal. There is also a low buzz that occurs about every other pedal application, which is
the normal cycling of the AHB power unit as it maintains internal hydraulic pressure.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Brake fluid pulsation within the AHB causes a short buzzy grunt noise when the brake pedal is
pressed.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the master cylinder and servo unit assembly (servo set).
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
The engine needs to be running to duplicate this noise when applying the brake pedal. The noise
can be very intermittent (possibly taking weeks to duplicate), which may make duplicating the
complaint difficult.
If you are viewing this service bulletin on ISIS and your computer has sound, click on the icons
above to hear examples of the short, buzzy grunt. You may choose to have your customer also
listen to the sound clip to verify the noise.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Master Cylinder: > 08-057 > Sep > 08 >
Brakes - Short, Buzzy Grunt Sound Upon Pedal Application > Page 5189
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keyword BLEED, and select Brake System Bleeding from the list.
^ Online, enter keywords MASTER CYL, and select Master Cylinder and AHB Servo Unit
Replacement from the list.
NOTE:
It is not necessary to remove the brake lines from the clamp and ABS modulator control unit as
described in steps 14 and 15 of the service manual. These steps will be removed from future
versions of the service manual. Also, disregard steps 19 and 20.
^ Online, enter keyword ZERO, and select Memorizing the Advanced Hydraulic Booster 0 (Zero)
Position from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Master Cylinder: > 08-057
> Sep > 08 > Brakes - Short, Buzzy Grunt Sound Upon Pedal Application
Brake Master Cylinder: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Short, Buzzy Grunt Sound Upon
Pedal Application
08-057
Brake System Makes a Short, Buzzy Grunt When the Brake Pedal Is Pressed
(Supersedes 08-057, dated August 23, 2008, to update the information marked by the black bar)
SYMPTOM
The advanced hydraulic booster (AHB) system intermittently makes a pronounced short, buzzy
grunt when the brake pedal is pressed.
NOTE:
This bulletin does not address the faint hiss that is characteristic of normal operation when pressing
the brake pedal. There is also a low buzz that occurs about every other pedal application, which is
the normal cycling of the AHB power unit as it maintains internal hydraulic pressure.
PROBABLE CAUSE
Brake fluid pulsation within the AHB causes a short buzzy grunt noise when the brake pedal is
pressed.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the master cylinder and servo unit assembly (servo set).
PARTS INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
The engine needs to be running to duplicate this noise when applying the brake pedal. The noise
can be very intermittent (possibly taking weeks to duplicate), which may make duplicating the
complaint difficult.
If you are viewing this service bulletin on ISIS and your computer has sound, click on the icons
above to hear examples of the short, buzzy grunt. You may choose to have your customer also
listen to the sound clip to verify the noise.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Master Cylinder: > 08-057
> Sep > 08 > Brakes - Short, Buzzy Grunt Sound Upon Pedal Application > Page 5195
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keyword BLEED, and select Brake System Bleeding from the list.
^ Online, enter keywords MASTER CYL, and select Master Cylinder and AHB Servo Unit
Replacement from the list.
NOTE:
It is not necessary to remove the brake lines from the clamp and ABS modulator control unit as
described in steps 14 and 15 of the service manual. These steps will be removed from future
versions of the service manual. Also, disregard steps 19 and 20.
^ Online, enter keyword ZERO, and select Memorizing the Advanced Hydraulic Booster 0 (Zero)
Position from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5196
^ Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
^ Do not try to disassemble the master cylinder assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly
with a new part if necessary.
2. If the suction hose (A) from the subreservoir (B) was removed, install the hose.
3. If the reservoir tank hose was disconnected, install the reservoir tank (A) and the reservoir tank
hose (B) to the subreservoir (C).
NOTE: ^
Align the "triangle" mark (D) on the reservoir tank and subreservoir with the paint mark (E) on the
hose.
NOTICE Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact
the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: To prevent spills, cover the disconnected line or hose joints with rags or shop towels.
1. Remove the air cleaner. 2. Remove the IMA system power cable clamps (A).
3. Remove the reservoir cap (B), and remove the brake fluid. 4. Remove the reservoir tank
mounting bolt (A).
6. Disconnect the wire harness connector (B) and the locked connector (C) by pulling down the
lever (D). 7. Remove the reservoir tank bracket (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5201
8. Remove the wire harness clamps stay (A).
9. Disconnect the brake lines (A) from the master cylinder (B).
10. Disconnect the suction hose (C) from the brake line (D). 11. Disconnect the brake fluid level
switch connector (E). 12. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the servo unit (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5202
13. Disconnect the servo unit 25P connector (A) by pulling down the lock (B).
14. Remove the brake lines (A) from the clamp (B).
15. Disconnect the brake lines (A) from the ABS modulator-control unit (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5203
16. Remove the lock pin (A) and the joint pin (B), then disconnect the yoke (C) from the brake
pedal.
17. Remove the servo unit mounting nuts (D). 18. Remove the servo unit with master cylinder from
the engine compartment.
19. Remove the subreservoir (A) and the reservoir grommets (B) from the servo unit (C) with the
master cylinder (D).
NOTE: When removing the subreservoir, replace the reservoir grommets with new ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5204
20. Remove the master cylinder mounting bolts (A), and separate the master cylinder (B) from the
servo unit (C).
21. Install the master cylinder and the servo unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these
items:
^ Coat the new O-ring with the Shin-Etsu silicone grease (P/N 08798-9013).
^ Check the brake pedal height and free play, and adjust it if necessary.
22. Do the normal brake system bleeding (except servo unit and power unit). See: Brake
Bleeding/Service and Repair 23. Do the servo unit and power unit system bleeding. 24. Spin the
wheels to check for brake drag. 25. Do the sensor 0 (zero) position memorization. See: Brake
Pedal Assy/Service and Repair/Memorizing 0 (Zero) Position
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ To prevent spills, cover the hose joints with rags or shop towels.
1. Remove the brake shoes. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
3. Remove the bolts (C) and the wheel cylinder from the backing plate.
4. Apply Cemedine 366E sealant or equivalent between the wheel cylinder and backing plate (D),
and install the wheel cylinder, then connect the
brake line.
5. Install the brake shoes. 6. Bleed the normal brake system (except the servo unit and power unit).
7. Do the parking brake inspection and adjustment. See: Parking Brake System/Adjustments 8.
Spin the wheels to check for brake drag. 9. After installation, check for leaks at hose and line joints
or connections, and retighten if necessary. Test-drive the vehicle, then check for leaks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments
Parking Brake Cable: Adjustments
Inspection
1. Pull the parking brake lever (A) with 196 N (20 kgf, 44 lbf) of force to fully apply the parking
brake. The parking brake lever should be locked
Adjustment
1. Remove the center console panel. 2. Release the parking brake lever fully. 3. Loosen the
parking brake adjusting nut (A).
4. Press the brake pedal several times to set the self-adjusting brake before adjusting the parking
brake. 5. Pull the parking brake lever 1 click. 6. Tighten the parking brake adjusting nut until the
parking brakes drag slightly when the rear wheels are turned. 7. Release the parking brake lever
fully, and check that the parking brakes do not drag when the rear wheels are turned. Readjust if
necessary. 8. Make sure the parking brakes are fully applied when the parking brake lever is pulled
all the way (8 to 10 clicks). 9. Install the center console panel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments > Page 5212
NOTE: ^
The parking brake cables must not be bent or distorted. This will lead to stiff operation and
premature failure.
1. Loosen the parking brake cable adjusting nut. 2. Remove the brake drum and shoes, and
disconnect the parking brake cable from the parking brake lever. 3. Remove the flange bolts (A)
and the parking brake cable (B) from the backing plate (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Adjustments > Page 5213
4. Reinstall the parking brake cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ Connect the parking brake cable to the brake lever, and install the brake shoes and drum.
^ Do the parking brake adjustment. See: Adjustments Apply the parking brake firmly 10 times then
adjust it again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Parking Brake Lever: Service and Repair
Removal
Lever Grip
1. Remove the center console. 2. Pull up the parking brake fully (8 to 10 clicks). 3. Start at the front
edge (A), peel the lever grip away from lever cap (B). Continue to peel the grip from the lever to
gain access to the hooks (C).
4. Push in both sides of the hook (A) on the lever cap (B), and remove the lever cap and the
pushrod (C) with the knob (D).
Lever Cover
6. Remove the clip (A) on the driver's side of the parking brake lever cover (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Lever > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 5217
7. Separate the parking brake lever covers, and remove them.
Installation
Lever Cover
1. Install the clip (A) on the driver's side of the parking brake lever cover (B) to the lever (C).
2. Install the passenger's side of the parking brake lever cover (D), and squeeze both sides of the
cover together.
Lever Grip
4. Install a new lever cap (A) on to the lever by aligning the notch (B) in the cap with the tab (C) on
the lever.
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5. With the lever cap and grip in position, push down on the cap to lock the hooks (D) into place. 6.
Carefully peel back the front edge (A) of the lever grip, and apply a small amount of gel type super
glue (B). Carefully push the grip back into
7. Install a new pushrod (A) with the knob (B), and push them into the parking brake lever (C).
8. Release and pull the parking brake about 10 times. 9. Check if the push knob play is about 2 mm
(0.08 in.) and that the parking brake lever moves smoothly, then do the parking brake inspection.
See:
Adjustments
NOTE: If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the
same time, check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system
indicator does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Circuit Diagram
Circuit Diagram
Wiring Diagram
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Diagram 43-0
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Diagram 43-1
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Diagram 43-2
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Diagram 43-3
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Diagram 43-4
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Diagram 43-5
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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System Description
System Communication
The advanced hydraulic booster system has a quick-reacting servo unit and a power unit
functioning as a brake booster. This makes it possible to stabilize the braking power while the auto
idle stop is operating. This system can raise the brake fluid pressure control quickly, and it works in
conjunction with the other systems.
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The ECU monitors the pressure in the servo unit and feedback from other system controls.
When the brake pedal is pressed, force is applied to the regulator valve through the compressed
spring, the bushing, and the stroke simulator. The regulator valve applies accumulator pressure to
the master cylinder in proportion to the brake pedal stroke. The mechanical IN valve and the
mechanical OUT valve in the regulator valve are operated by the conventional brake. The hydraulic
control has three operations: Pressure intensifying, pressure retaining, and pressure reducing.
NOTE: If the power unit has a problem, and the accumulator pressure (PACC) is low or depleted,
the normal brake system is affected. The primary and the secondary pistons in the master cylinder
are pushed by the brake pedal without assist from the booster.
The pressure to the master cylinder is controlled by four solenoid valves. The solenoid valves
control these operations: Regenerate cooperation control, CAS control, brake assist control.
Pressure Sensors
The servo unit monitors the master cylinder pressure (PMC), the accumulator pressure (PACC),
and the regulator pressure (PREG) with independent pressure sensors that send feedback to the
CPU.
NOTE: The regulator pressure sensor recognizes brake pedal operation. The brake pedal stroke
sensor checks for regulator pressure sensor or servo unit CPU malfunctions.
The servo unit has a ECU (electronic control unit) that does these functions:
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^ Checks for system failures.
^ Creep aid system (CAS), in conjunction with the PCM (CVT system).
^ Controls the regenerative system in conjunction with the PCM (IMA system).
^ Brake assist.
The pump motor is operated by the servo unit. The servo unit has independent main activation and
subactivation circuits in the ECU (electronic control unit). If either circuit has a problem, the other
one will run the pump motor.
The CAS keeps the brakes applied when CVT control requires it during auto idle stop. This
prevents the vehicle from rolling forward or backward while the driver releases the brake pedal (to
press the accelerator pedal) and the engine starts. When the CVT requires the CAS function, the
servo unit operates the solenoid valves to maintain the brake fluid pressure to the master cylinder.
The brake fluid pressure is reduced gradually while the solenoid valves in the servo unit are
operating. After the engine starts and the brake pedal is released, the CVT no longer requires the
CAS.
When the driver decelerates or stops by pressing the brake pedal, the servo unit communicates
with the PCM to control the balance between the regenerative control and the normal brake
system. In this case, the brake pedal reaction force is the same as a conventional brake system,
and the driver is unaware of these controls.
Brake Assist
When the driver does emergency braking the servo unit senses the quick rise in the brake
pressure. In this case, the servo unit adds pressure to the inner cylinder, and assists the brake
pedal application for the driver. This control ends at the end of the brake application, when the
vehicle stops, the brake pedal is released, or if the system has a problem.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
NOTICE A serious advanced hydraulic booster problem will decrease the braking power of the
vehicle, and increase the risk of a collision. If the system indicators come on and the buzzer
sounds while driving, stop the vehicle in a safe place as soon as possible, and do not drive the
vehicle until the system returns to normal.
System Indicators
When the system detects a problem, it turns on the AHB indicator and buzzer, and/or the brake
system indicator. Depending on the failure, the servo unit determines which indicators are turned
on. When the system is OK, the AHB indicator and brake system indicator come on for about 2
seconds after turning the ignition switch to ON (II), then they go off.
AHB Indicator
The AHB indicator comes on when the advanced hydraulic booster function is lost, and this may
affect normal brake operation.
Buzzer
The buzzer indicates audibly, in conjunction with the brake system indicator, when the advanced
hydraulic booster function is lost, and this may affect normal brake operation.
^ The memory can hold all DTCs. However, when the same DTC is detected more than once, the
more recent DTC is written over the earlier one. Therefore, when the same problem is detected
repeatedly, it is memorized as a single DTC.
^ The DTCs are indicated in ascending number order, not in the order they occur.
^ The DTCs are memorized in the EEPROM. Therefore, the memorized DTCs cannot be erased by
disconnecting the battery. Do the specified procedures to clear the DTCs.
Self-diagnosis
- Regular diagnosis: Done right after the initial diagnosis until the ignition switch is turned to LOCK
(0).
^ When the system detects a problem, the servo unit shifts to fail-safe mode.
Pump Motor
^ The pump motor in the power unit operates when the accumulator inner pressure becomes low
while the ignition switch is turned to ON (II). You may hear the motor operate at this time, but it is
normal.
^ The pump motor is operated by the servo unit. The servo unit has independent main activation
and subactivation circuits in the ECU (electric control unit). If either circuit has a problem, the other
one will run the pump motor.
Brake fluid replacement and air bleeding procedures for the servo unit and power unit are
independent of the conventional brake system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 5278
Diagnostic Strategies
The troubleshooting procedures assume that the cause of the problem is still present and the AHB
and/or brake system indicator is still on. Following a troubleshooting procedure for a code that has
been cleared but does not reset can result in incorrect diagnosis.
1. Question the customer about the conditions when the problem occurred and the AHB and/or
brake system indicator came on, such as during
braking control, braking when the vehicle was traveling at a certain speed, etc.
2. When the AHB and/or brake system indicator does not come on during the test-drive, but
troubleshooting is done based on the DTC, check for
loose connectors, poor contact of the terminals, etc. before you start troubleshooting.
3. After troubleshooting, or repairs are done, clear the DTCs, and test-drive the vehicle under the
same conditions that originally set the DTCs. Make
sure the AHB and/or brake system indicators do not come on.
4. Check for other system which are connected via F-CAN, if there are DTCs that are related to
F-CAN, the most likely cause was that the ignition
switch was turned to ON (II) with the servo unit connector disconnected. Clear the DTCs. Check for
fuel and emissions codes, and troubleshoot those first.
Intermittent Failures
The term "intermittent failure" means a system may have had a failure, but it checks OK now. If the
AHB indicator and the brake system indicator do not come on, check for loose connectors or
terminal pins related to the circuit that you are troubleshooting. If the indicators were on, but then
went out, the original problem may have been intermittent.
1. If the AHB indicator and the brake system indicator stay on, connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side
of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
servo unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Check the diagnostic trouble code (DTC)
and note it. Then refer to the indicated DTC's troubleshooting, and do the appropriate
troubleshooting
procedure.
NOTE: ^
The HDS can read the DTC, current data, and other system data.
^ For specific operations, refer to the Help menu that came with the HDS.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) under the
driver's side of the dashboard. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS
communicates with the vehicle and the servo unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4.
Follow the prompts on the HDS to display the DTC(s) on the screen. After determining the DTC,
refer to the DTC troubleshooting. 5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Symptom Troubleshooting
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Check the No. 63 (15 A) fuse in the auxiliary underhood
fuse/relay box.
3. Disconnect the servo unit 25P connector. 4. Measure the voltage between servo unit 25P
connector terminal No. 8 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 5281
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 63 (15 A) in the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box
and the servo unit.
6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 7. Measure the voltage between servo unit 25P connector
terminal No. 16 and body ground.
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 4 (7 - 5 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the
servo unit.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9. Check the No. 36 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
10. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 11. Measure the voltage between servo unit 25P connector
terminal No. 6 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 5282
12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Check for continuity between body ground and servo
unit 25P connector terminals No. 7, No. 23, and No. 24 individually.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the servo unit and body ground (G202).
Brake System Indicator Does Not GO Off, and No DTCs Are Stored
Symptom Troubleshooting
Brake system indicator does not go off, and no DTCs are stored
1. Release the parking brake. 2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Check the brake system
indicator for several seconds when the ignition switch is turned to ON (II).
YES - Intermittent failure, the system is OK at this time. Check for loose terminals at the brake fluid
level switch 2P connector, the gauge control module (tach) 36P connector, and the servo unit 25P
connector. Refer to intermittent failures troubleshooting.
NO - Go to step 4.
4. Check the BRAKE INDICATOR in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 5.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 5283
5. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 6. Check the No. 63 (15 A) fuse in the auxiliary under hood
fuse/relay box.
7. Disconnect the servo unit 25P connector. 8. Measure the voltage between servo unit 25P
connector terminal No. 8 and body ground.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 63 (15 A) in the auxiliary under-hood fuse/relay box
and the servo unit.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Do the BUZZER ON in the FUNCTION TEST with the HDS.
NO - Go to step 3.
3. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 4. Check the No. 36 (10 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box.
5. Disconnect the buzzer 2P connector. 6. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 7. Measure the
voltage between buzzer 2P connector terminal No. 2 and body ground.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 5284
Is there battery voltage?
YES - Go to step 8.
NO - Repair open in the wire between the No. 36 (10 A) in the under-dash fuse/relay box and the
buzzer.
8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9. Disconnect the servo unit 25P connector.
10. Check for continuity between buzzer 2P connector terminal No. 1 and servo unit 25P connector
terminal No. 5.
Is there continuity?
NO - Repair open in the wire between the buzzer and the servo unit.
11. Reconnect all connectors. 12. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 13. Connect buzzer 2P
connector terminal No. 1 to body ground with a jumper wire.
NOTE: Check for advanced hydraulic booster DTCs before doing this troubleshooting. If any DTCs
are present, troubleshoot them first.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the buzzer 2P connector. 3. Disconnect the
servo unit 25P connector. 4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 5. Check for continuity between
buzzer 2P connector terminal No. 1 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short to body ground in the wire between the buzzer and body ground.
NO - Go to step 6.
6. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 7. Connect the buzzer 2P connector. 8. Turn the ignition
switch to ON (II).
NOTICE Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid does contact
the paint, wash it off immediately with water.
NOTE: To prevent spills, cover the disconnected line or hose joints with rags or shop towels.
1. Remove the cowl cover and the under-cowl panel. 2. Remove the brake fluid. 3. Remove the
heat shield (A).
4. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the power unit (B).
5. Disconnect the suction hose (C) from the brake line (D). 6. Disconnect the power unit 2P
connector (A), and remove the clip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5288
7. Remove the power unit (C) with the bracket (D) from the frame. 8. Separate the power unit (A)
and the bracket (B), and remove the suction hose (C).
10. Do the normal brake system bleeding (except the servo unit and the power unit). See: Brake
Bleeding/Service and Repair 11. Do the servo unit and power unit system bleeding.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5289
Power Unit
Accumulator Disposal
Accumulator Disposal
WARNING The accumulator contains nitrogen gas under pressure. The pressure must be relieved
before disposal to prevent explosion and possible injury when scrapping.
WARNING Always wear eye protection to avoid getting metal shavings in your eyes when the
accumulator pressure is relieved.
Firmly clamp the accumulator in a vise, and drill a hole of 2 - 3 mm (0.078 - 0.118 in.) diameter in
marked area (A) of the body to release the gas.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 5290
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Diagrams Control Module Pinout Values, ABS
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 1)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > ABS Modulator-Control Unit > Page 5301
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 2)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5302
The control unit detects the wheel speed based on the wheel speed sensor signals it received, then
it calculates the vehicle speed based on the detected wheel speed. The control unit detects the
vehicle speed during deceleration based on the wheel speeds.
The control unit calculates the slip rate of each wheel, and transmits the control signal to the
modulator unit solenoid valve when the slip rate is high.
The hydraulic control has three modes: Pressure intensifying, pressure reducing, and pressure
retaining.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5303
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 1)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5304
ABS Modulator-Control Unit Inputs and Outputs for 25P Connector (Part 2)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5305
NOTE: ^
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if brake fluid gets on the paint,
wash it off immediately with water.
^ Be careful not to damage or deform the brake lines during removal and installation.
^ To prevent the brake fluid from flowing, plug and cover the hose ends and joints with a shop
towel or equivalent material.
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Disconnect the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector (A) by pulling up the lock (B); the connector disconnects itself.
3. Disconnect the six brake lines from the ABS modulator-control unit.
NOTE: Brake lines are connected to the master cylinder (C) and to the right-front (D), the left-rear
(E), the right-rear (F), and the left-front (G) brake systems.
4. Remove the ABS modulator-control unit (H) with the brackets (I) from the body. 5. Remove the
ABS modulator-control unit from the brackets. 6. Separate the bracket if necessary.
Installation
1. Install the ABS modulator-control unit onto the brackets. 2. Install the bracket with the ABS
modulator-control unit to the body. 3. Reconnect the six brake lines, then tighten the flare nuts to
the specified torque. 4. Align the connecting surface of the ABS modulator-control unit 25P
connector to the ABS modulator-control unit. 5. Lower the lock of the ABS modulator-control unit
25P connector, then confirm the connector is fully seated. 6. Bleed the brake system (except the
servo unit and power unit). 7. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 8.
Test-drive the vehicle, and check that the ABS indicator does not come on.
NOTE: If the brake pedal is spongy, there may be air trapped in the modulator and then induced
into the normal brake system during modulation. Bleed the brake system (except the servo unit and
power unit) again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Fail Safe
Relay, ABS / Traction Control > Component Information > Diagrams
Check for continuity between the terminals (1) and (2) with the float in the down,position and in the
up position.
NOTE: ^
Remove the brake fluid completely from the reservoir. With the float down, there should be
continuity.
^ Fill the reservoir with brake fluid to the MAX (upper) level (A). With the float up, there should be
no continuity.
^ If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the same time,
check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
^ If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system indicator
does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Pedal Height
1. Turn the brake pedal position switch (A) counterclockwise, and pull it back until it is no longer
touching the brake pedal.
2. Pull back the carpet and find the cutout in the insulation. Lift up the insulation cutout and
measure the pedal height (B) at the middle of the left
Standard pedal height (with carpet move aside): 158 mm (6 1/4 in.)
3. Loosen the pushrod locknut (A), and screw the pushrod (B) in or out with pliers until the standard
pedal height from the floor is reached. After
adjustment, tighten the locknut firmly. Do not adjust the pedal height with the pushrod pressed.
4. Lift up on the brake pedal by hand. Push in the brake pedal position switch until its plunger is
fully pressed (threaded end (A) touching the pad (B)
on the pedal arm). Then, turn the brake pedal position switch 45° clockwise to lock it. The gap
between the brake pedal position switch and the pad is automatically adjusted to 0.7 mm (0.028
in.) by locking the switch. Make sure the brake lights go off when the pedal is released.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 5324
5. Check the brake pedal free play. 6. Do the sensor 0 (zero) position memorization. See: Brake
Pedal Assy/Service and Repair/Memorizing 0 (Zero) Position
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), inspect the pedal free play (A) at the pedal pad (B) by
pushing the pedal by hand. If the brake pedal free
NOTE: If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the
same time, check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system
indicator does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
Front
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the connector clamp (A), then disconnect the
wheel speed sensor connector (B).
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check
that the ABS indicator does not come on.
Rear
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Release the connector clamp (A), then disconnect the
wheel speed sensor connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Page 5340
3. Remove the clips, the bolt, and the wheel speed sensor (C). 4. Install the wheel speed sensor in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ If the wheel speed sensor comes in contact with the wheel bearing unit, it is faulty.
5. Start the engine, and check that the ABS indicator goes off. 6. Test-drive the vehicle, and check
that the ABS indicator does not come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5350
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5351
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5353
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5354
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5355
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5356
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5357
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5358
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5359
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5360
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5364
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5366
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5367
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5368
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5369
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5370
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5371
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5372
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5373
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5374
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5375
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5376
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5377
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5378
Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info.
09-060
(Supersedes 09-060, dated January 19, 2010, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
INTRODUCTION
The software for the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. You can now use the Midtronics GR8 update wizard to download
software and firmware to your GR8 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the
latest GR8 software to ensure that the current battery testing and diagnostic procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that GR8 testers are updated promptly. The GR8
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ USB-to-mini-USB cable (this cable came with the GR8): Midtronics P/N A128
^ Internet access
To order the GR8 Diagnostic Station, or the USB-to-mini-USB cable, go to the Honda Tool and
Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online
Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE INFORMATION
The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).
The update should take 5-10 minutes. Make sure that the update is not interrupted. If the update is
interrupted, it could damage the GR8 and require you to send the GR8 to Midtronics for repair. This
repair is not covered by warranty.
1. Make sure the GR8 is off and the SD card is removed.
2. Online, go to www.midtronics.com/home/clientlogin/clientlogin.aspx:
3. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
Username: hondagr8
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5391
Password: hondagr8
4. You should see an image of the GR8 tester. Click on the highlighted Update Software link under
the image.
5. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the GR8 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
6. You should see the image of the GR8 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda GR8
Software Update link.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
*9. The Midtronics Update Wizard appears. Refer to SOFTWARE INFORMATION to find the
current software version.*
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5392
* NOTE:
If the wrong software file appears or is not shown, click Change MUP File, and select the correct
software version.*
10. Turn on the GR8, and follow the Update Wizard on-screen instructions.
11. When the update is complete, the Update Results screen appears, indicating the update was
successful. Click Finish to close the Update Wizard.
12. Turn the GR8 off for 10 seconds. Reinstall the SD card, then turn the GR8 on, and confirm that
the software is updated to the software version
13. If an error message appears anytime during the update, follow the on-screen instructions, and
try updating the GR8 again. If the error message still
does not go away, or if you have any problems updating the GR8, call Midtronics.
14. If you have more than one GR8, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
15. Once all GR8s are updated, store the USB-to-mini-USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5393
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - ED-18 Battery Analyzer Update Info.
09-045
(Supersedes 09-027, dated June 30, 2009, to revise the information marked by the asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
Under SOFTWARE VERSION, the method to check the current software was updated.*
INTRODUCTION
The software for the ED-18 Battery Analyzer (or tester) is updated periodically to fix software bugs
and enhance the tool's function. To help you update the ED-18 tester more quickly, American
Honda no longer distributes CDs for the tester. You can now use the Midtronics ED-18 update
wizard to download software and firmware to your ED-18 tester using a PC and the Internet. It is
extremely important to use the latest ED-18 software to ensure that the current battery testing
procedures are used.
Honda introduced a new policy to ensure that ED-18 testers are updated promptly. The ED-18
software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification from an iN message or other
Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any battery replacements may not be
covered under warranty.
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer: ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBED18LLH ED-18 Version 2: P/N INB17191840
^ 7/64" hex wrench: P/N INBi7191270* *Both the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench were
included with the ED-18 update that was shipped to dealerships in November 2008.
^ Internet access
^ An IBM-compatible PC:
- CD ROM
- R5232 (9 pin) serial port, or an R5232 to USB Adapter (P/N MTRA164) (Some newer computers
do not have an R5232 port. You will need to order the R5232 to USB adapter to update your ED-18
testers.)
To order the ED-18 Battery Analyzer version 2, the interface cable, the R5232 to USB adapter, or
the hex wrench, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service
Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
*The current software version is listed online. Go to the iN (select Service > Service Bay >
Diagnostic Tools Software Versions).*
Info > Version. The version number is located near the top of the version screen.
To check the ED-18 version 2 software:
^ Turn on the tester, and read the version number on the screen. It should appear for about 3
seconds.
^ Or, you can click on: Language > Options > Info > Version. The version number is located near
the top of the version screen.
1. Make sure the ED-18 is off, then detach the printer by using the hex wrench to remove the two
screws at the bottom of the printer. Pull the printer
straight out from the ED-18 to avoid damaging the connector terminals.
2. Connect the R8232 interface cable to the ED-18 where the printer was connected, then connect
the interface cable to your PC.
NOTE:
If your computer doesn't have an R8232 serial port, use the R8232 to USB adapter.
4. Online, go to
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5395
5. Enter your username and password, then click the Login button.
NOTE:
7. Fill in your dealer number, the service manager's name, and the ED-18 serial number(s). The
dealer name, the dealer address, and the dealer phone
8. You should see the image of your ED-18 tester again. Click on the highlighted Honda ED-18 V2
Software Update link.
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5396
10. A file will be downloaded to your computer. After it is finished, an Internet Explorer - Security
Warning screen appears. Select Run.
NOTE:
Depending on your network setup, you may see more warning screens than are shown here.
12. Before using the Midtronics update utility, make sure your computer port settings are correct.
Click on: My Computer > Control Panel > System >
If you are using an RS232 to USB adapter, make sure to plug it in before checking the port
settings.
Expand Ports, and check the communications port number. The communications port number
should match the COMM number in the Midtronics update utility. If the numbers do not match, click
on the arrows next to the COMM windows in the Midtronics update utility, and change the number
to match the computer system's port number.
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5398
Make sure this communications port number matches the COMM number on the update. If it does
not, change the number on the update.
13. Click on Start to begin the update, which takes about a minute. A progress bar appears. Wait
until you get a message indicating the update was
successful.
NOTE:
^ If the clamps come off the battery, or the R8232 interface cable comes loose, turn the ED-18 off,
then back on. When the logon screen appears on the ED-18, click on Start to restart the update.
^ If the error message Flash not erased appears, replace the AA batteries in the ED-18, and try the
update again.
15. Click on Quit on the ED-18 update. Make sure the message UPDATE COMPLETE appears on
the ED-18 tester.
17. Confirm that the software on the ED-18 tester is updated to the software version listed under
SOFTWARE VERSION.
NOTE:
If you have any problems updating the ED-18, call Midtronics at 866-592-8054.
19. If you have more than one ED-18, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
20. Once all ED-18s are updated, store the R5232 interface cable and the hex wrench in a safe
location for future updates.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5400
Battery: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Battery Testing and Replacement Information
88-023
(Supersedes 88-023, dated September 12, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black
bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*^ Under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION, battery claim Error Codes were added to some
Warranty Requirements
^ The 2005 Model Year and Later battery coverage section was changed to 2005-10 Model Year
Vehicles.*
BACKGROUND
Maintaining batteries in vehicles is an important part of ensuring a battery's operating life. American
Honda recommends using the ED-18 and GR8 to check and maintain batteries. Refer to this
bulletin for:
REQUIRED TOOLS
^ ED-18 Battery Analyzer (Version 1 or 2): ED-18 Version 1: P/N INBEDi8LLH ED-18 Version 2:
P/N INB17191840
NOTE:
Tool Requirements
The GR8 and ED-18 software must be updated within 3 days of a new software update release.
Refer to the applicable service bulletins for more information:
Warranty Requirements
The 10-digit test code must be included on a battery replacement claim. Refer to WARRANTY
CLAIM INFORMATION.
ORDERING INFORMATION
To order the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station or the ED-18-2 Battery Analyzer, go to the Honda Tool
and Equipment catalog on the iN (select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment Program >
Online Catalog), or call.
NOTE:
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Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5401
For more information about documenting the scheduled battery checks, refer to Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers.
NOTE:
Keep a printout of every battery test. Your warranty claim may be rejected unless you show that the
battery was properly maintained.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ Check the condition of the battery and its state-of-charge when a vehicle comes in for scheduled
maintenance.
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
^ When the ED-18 or GR8 displays Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, it provides a 10-digit
code that must be included with the warranty
^ Properly charge and diagnose the battery when indicated by the ED-18
^ Power supply mode maintains proper voltage during extended vehicle service, such as updating
the PCM
NOTE:
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the ED-18 user's manual.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the ED-18 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
4. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5403
5. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
6. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE: All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select
another battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the ED-18 analyzer result
may be wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
8. Measure the battery temperature by placing the analyzer's IR temperature sensor within 1 to 2
inches of the top or side of the battery. (The arrow on
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5404
the top of the analyzer's housing indicates the sensor's location.) When the measured temperature
on the display stabilizes, press Enter.
9. The analyzer displays the battery's current condition under RESULTS. The screen below shows
one of four possible battery conditions, the battery's
measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that
represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge, 85% of its capacity, and requires no
action.
^ GR8 Diagnostic Needed - The battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), and the
condition of the battery is unknown. Use the GR8 to charge the battery and properly diagnose it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5405
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is an internal problem with the battery. Replace it.
11. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the analyzer. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
NOTE:
^ Use the GR8 diagnostic mode when the ED-18 indicates GR8 DIAGNOSTIC NEEDED.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual;
besides the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online.
Select GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5406
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and that the GR8 is updated to the most current
software. The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim
may not be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for
more information.
5. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5407
6. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
7. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the GR8 result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
10. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5408
11. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically starts charging
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
12. After the GR8 completes its diagnosis, it displays the battery's current condition. The screen
shows one of three possible battery conditions, the
battery's measured voltage, and the CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph
that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70% of its charge and requires no action.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5409
^ Replace Battery - The battery condition is poor. Replace it.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
14. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5410
USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST FUNCTION
NOTE:
^ The ED-18 battery test function in the GR8 should be used only when your ED-18 is out of
service.
^ For set up, customizing, and other available features, refer to the GR8 instruction manual besides
the one that comes with the GR8, the GR8 instruction manual is also available online. Select
GENERAL PUBLICATIONS, select Tool Information, then select Honda GR8-1100P Battery
Diagnostic Station Instruction Manual from the list.
^ Make sure the setup has been completed, and the GR8 updated to the most current software.
The date and software version is very important for the proper result. Your warranty claim may not
be paid if this information is wrong. See Tool Requirements under REQUIRED TOOLS for more
information.
6. Select your TECHNICIAN ID, then press Enter. After the summary of your technician ID
appears, press Enter again.
7. Use the arrow keys to select either DEALER INVENTORY or CUSTOMER VEHICLE, then press
Enter.
8. Use the arrow or number keys to select the location of the battery, either OUT OF VEHICLE or
IN VEHICLE, then press Enter.
9. Use the arrow or number keys to select the FLOODED, then press Enter.
NOTE:
All Honda original equipment and replacement batteries are flooded types. If you select another
battery type, your claim will not be covered by Honda's warranty.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5412
10. Use the arrow or number keys to select the battery CCA value, then press Enter. You can find
the CCA on the battery label on the top of the battery.
If the battery hold-down plate is covering the label, loosen the plate and shift it out of the way to
read the CCA.
NOTE:
Enter the correct cold cranking amps. If you enter the wrong number, the battery test result may be
wrong, and the warranty claim may be rejected.
11. The screen changes to a progress bar while the GR8 tests the battery.
12. If the battery voltage is below 60% of its state of charge (SOC), or the condition of the battery is
unknown, the GR8 automatically changes to its
NOTE:
^ The GR8 often states that charging and testing time is about 3 hours. Most actual charging and
diagnostic times range between 15-25 minutes.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5413
^ Battery charging times are affected by how the battery is discharged. If the battery discharged
quickly (for example, the headlights were left on), the battery will recharge quickly. However, if the
battery discharged slowly (for example, the battery was not checked for a very long time), it will
take a lot longer to recharge it.
13. The tester displays the battery's current condition. The screen shows one of three possible
battery conditions, the battery's measured voltage, and the
CCA. The screen includes a curved, two-section bar graph that represents the battery's condition.
^ Good Battery - This battery has at least 70 percent of its charge and requires no action.
^ Bad Cell Replace - There is a problem with the battery. Replace it.
15. The screens toggle back and forth until you turn off the tester. To print the test results, press
BACK. To return to the main menu, press CLEAR.
NOTE:
^ If you need to submit a warranty claim, enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic
Trouble Code fields on the warranty claim.
^ If you enter the wrong CCA, or do not use the most current software version, your claim may be
rejected.
^ The test results must state Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace for a warranty battery
replacement claim to be approved.
DTC: Enter the 10-digit test code into the first two Diagnostic Trouble Code fields in the warranty
claim.
Warranty Requirements
^ Only batteries that are Original Equipment (factory-installed) or supplied by AHM Parts are
covered by the Original Equipment Battery Limited Warranty.
^ No battery warranty claim will be accepted without the 10-digit test code from the ED-18 Battery
Analyzer or the GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station.
^ Enter the 10-digit test code into the Warranty Claim DTC fields one and two.
^ The battery tester print-out stating Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace must be attached to the
related repair order or the warranty claim will not be approved.
^ All batteries replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag attached to it.
^ If you have a battery under warranty that needs replacement for a non-electrical defect (like a
cracked case) and the battery tester does not display Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace, contact
your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) for help.
*^ The battery claim will be returned to your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2081 if the
tester printout does not state Replace Battery or Bad
Cell Replace.
^ A battery claim will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2082 if the
technician entered the CCA (from the ED-18 Rating field or the GR8 Test Info field) that does not
match the factory-installed battery or the AHM Parts replacement battery CCA. Make sure the CCA
matches the model and model year on the iN (Interactive Network). Go to Service > Service Library
> Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ The ED-18 and GR8 must have the most current software version. Honda policy states that you
must update your tools within 3 days of being notified that an update is available. A battery claim
will be returned to the dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2083 if a repair order (RO) date is
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5415
7 days or later after the software activation date for the latest tester software. See REQUIRED
TOOLS for more information about the current software version and how to update your tools. You
can also check the software version active dates on the iN. Go to Service > Service Library >
Claims Reference Guide > Coverage Tables > Battery Warranty.
^ All Honda 12-volt batteries are lead-acid (flooded type). No other battery types are accepted. If
you try to submit a claim with a battery that was not tested as flooded, the claim will be returned to
your dealership unpaid with an Error Code of 2084. See step 6 of USING THE ED-18 BATTERY
TESTER or step 9 of USING THE GR8 DIAGNOSTIC STATION - ED-18 BATTERY TEST
FUNCTION for how to test the battery.*
ED-18 and GR8 battery test codes are used for product research and warranty validation. Some of
the information gathered is:
- Tool type
- Software version
- Test date
- Test results:
^ Battery voltage
^ CCA results
^ Battery condition
^ Battery temperature
- Tech-entered information:
^ Battery CCA
^ Battery type
The dealer is responsible for testing and charging batteries when the vehicle first arrives at the
dealership and while in dealer inventory. Testing and charging to maintain the battery in a new and
unsold vehicle cannot be claimed under warranty. If you let a good battery sit discharged, and it is
damaged from poor maintenance, this is not a defect, and the replacement is not covered by
warranty.
If your dealership receives a new vehicle (less than 2 weeks since delivery) with a defective battery
(your ED-18 or GR8 states Replace Battery or Bad Cell, plus the 10-digit code), you can file a
warranty claim. You must show the printout from the ED18 or GR8 and the vehicle delivery
document (bill of lading) to your DPSM and request their approval of claim error 3050, No Warranty
- In Stock Battery.
You are required to test the battery during the PDI and at final delivery. Record the 10-digit test
code created by the ED-i8 or GR8 in the applicable places of the Service History booklet, and place
a printout of the tester results in the vehicle file. See RECORD KEEPING in Service Bulletin
89-003, Battery Maintenance at Dealers, for more information.
Warranty claim error code 3055 was created for battery replacement claims within 90 days of
delivery to the customer. It can be cleared only by a DPSM. For your DPSM to override warranty
claim error code 3055, you need to provide this documentation:
^ The initial PDI battery test printout that matches the PDI date or the new arrival battery test
printout and the vehicle delivery document (bill of lading), lists the correct CCA rating, and shows
the battery condition as Good Battery.
^ The Final Inspection that matches the date of the vehicle delivery, lists the correct CCA rating,
and shows the battery condition as Good Battery.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Electrical - GR8 Battery Diagnostic Station Update Info. > Page 5416
^ The latest battery test that shows Replace Battery or Bad Cell Replace. Use the 10-digit code
from this test when submitting the warranty claim.
All battery warranty claims need an ED-18 or GR8 test code included under the DTC (Diagnostic
Trouble Code) field. Any claims submitted without a code will be rejected, and test codes are
audited for accuracy. Attach the ED-18 or GR8 tester printout that states Replace Battery or Bad
Cell - Replace. If your claim is rejected with the claim error codes 2080 or 2081, refer to these code
explanations:
^ 2080 - Battery test code required. Enter the 10-digit code from the ED-18 or GR8 in the DTC field
and resubmit.
^ 2081 - Good battery or invalid battery code. This code is created when you submit a 10-digit code
that indicates a Good Battery, Charge & Retest, or
Refer to the owner's manual or current Service Operations Manual for warranty coverage. Each
defective battery replaced under warranty must have a warranty claim tag securely attached to it. If
you need to replace a battery because of a non-electrical problem (for example, the case is
cracked) but the ED-18 or GR8 reads that the battery is good, contact your DPSM for help.
Warranty Coverage
Enter the warranty claim information listed, and the full dealer net amount. The parts and labor
reimbursement is calculated according to the following tables after you submit the warranty claim.
*Batteries in 2005-10 model year vehicles are covered in full for parts and labor with no mileage
limit for 36 months.*
See section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Parts Warranty - Replacement Battery Limited Warranty (Customer paid at a Honda dealership for
an AHM Parts battery)
Refer to the Warranty Requirements under Battery Replacement - Original Equipment Battery
Limited Warranty.
Warranty Coverage
Enter and submit a parts warranty claim with the information listed and the full dealer net amount.
The parts and labor reimbursement is calculated according to the schedule below after the
warranty claim is submitted.
Batteries are covered for 100 months, with full coverage for the first 36 months in service and
prorated between the 37th and 100th month of service as listed in the table.
Replacement Batteries Sold Between February 1, 2000, and October 31, 2004
See Section 2.18 of the Service Operations Manual for more information.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 5418
Battery: Testing and Inspection
WARNING: A battery can explode if you do not follow the proper procedure, causing serious injury
to anyone nearby. Follow all procedures carefully and keep sparks and open flames away from the
battery.
Use either a ED-18(TM) Battery Tester and follow the manufacturer's procedures. If you don't have
one of these computerized testers, follow this conventional test procedure:
1. Be sure the temperature of the electrolyte is between 70 °F (21 °C) and 100 °F (38 °C). 2.
Inspect the battery case for cracks or leaks.
4. Apply a 300 amp load for 15 seconds to remove the surface charge. 5. Wait 15 seconds, then
apply a test load of 280 amps for 15 seconds.
7. Charge the battery on High (40 amps) until the test indicator window shows the battery is
charged, plus an additional 30 minutes. If the battery
charge is very low, it may be necessary to bypass the charger's polarity protection circuitry. -
If the test indicator window indicates the battery is charged within three hours, the battery is OK.
- If the test indicator window indicates the battery is not charged within three hours, replace the
battery.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Charging System - Revised Alternator Testing
Alternator: Technical Service Bulletins Charging System - Revised Alternator Testing
10-054
September 8, 2010
BACKGROUND
American Honda is currently developing new equipment and procedures for testing alternators and
starters. Until this equipment is released, please use the following information.
Do not use the ED-18 for testing alternators because it will misjudge the charging system
performance on some models, leading to the unnecessary replacement of good parts. To properly
test alternators, use one of the following tools:
^ OTC Tester - Includes the following testers: 0TC3130, OTC3130AGM, 0TC3131, and 0TC3131
AGM
^ ARBST
^ VAT40
If you do not have one of these tools, the OTC tester is available through the special tool loan
program. For more information about the loan program, refer to S/B 98-051, Special Tool Loan
Program.
Honda vehicles use an electronic load detection (ELD) circuit in the charging system to reduce fuel
consumption. The alternator has two modes; low output and high output. When the vehicle is
cruising and there is a light electrical load, the alternator switches to the low output mode that
produces about
12.5 V and low amperage. When the vehicle load increases (the customer turns on the headlights,
the seat heaters, the rear defroster, etc.), the alternator switches to the high output mode that
raises the voltage and amperage.
ALTERNATOR TEST
For more information on the OTC tester, refer to its user guide. Besides the one that came with the
tool, you can also find the guide online under General Publications, Tool Information.
1. Question the customer about the events that led up to the problem. Many charging system
complaints are caused by leaving the headlights or interior
lights on, headlight flicker, or installing aftermarket accessories with a high parasitic draw that
drains the battery.
2. Visually inspect the battery cables and grounding straps to confirm the connections are clean
and tight. If there are any damaged parts or loose
3. Test the vehicle battery with the GR-8. Refer to S/B 88-023, Battery Testing and Replacement.
^ Connect the positive (+) heavy load lead to the positive battery terminal.
5. Calibrate the OTC tester by holding the amp probe away from any conductors, and pressing the
ZERO AMPS button.
6. Connect the amp probe to the vehicle's negative battery cable. Make sure the arrow on the
probe points toward the vehicle's battery.
NOTE:
If the vehicle has a second battery negative cable, make sure the probe is around that as well.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Charging System - Revised Alternator Testing > Page 5424
8. Start the engine, set the parking brake to turn off the DRL (daytime running lights), and turn off
all other electrical accessories.
10. Raise and hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm until RUN AT IDLE appears on the display.
NOTE:
Stand back from the battery, and do not place any objects on top of the OTC tester; it gets hot
during testing.
11. Let the engine idle until TEST COMPLETE appears on the display.
12. Press CONTINUE to see the results, and write them down. The first screen lists the
REGULATOR VOLTS. Press CONTINUE again to list the
PEAK AMPS.
13. Refer to the AMPERAGE LOAD SPECIFICATIONS table, and compare the vehicle results
against the listed amperage value.
Is the vehicle amperage (PEAK AMPS) equal to or greater than the value listed in the AMPERAGE
table?
^ If it's between 13.5 and 15.1 V, the alternator is OK. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
^ If it's not between 13.5 and 15.1 V, replace the alternator, and retest.
NOTE:
The amperage values listed below are used for testing purposes and represent 75% of the
alternator's maximum output.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 5425
Alternator: Testing and Inspection
September 8, 2010
BACKGROUND
American Honda is currently developing new equipment and procedures for testing alternators and
starters. Until this equipment is released, please use the following information.
Do not use the ED-18 for testing alternators because it will misjudge the charging system
performance on some models, leading to the unnecessary replacement of good parts. To properly
test alternators, use one of the following tools:
^ OTC Tester - Includes the following testers: 0TC3130, OTC3130AGM, 0TC3131, and 0TC3131
AGM
^ ARBST
^ VAT40
If you do not have one of these tools, the OTC tester is available through the special tool loan
program. For more information about the loan program, refer to S/B 98-051, Special Tool Loan
Program.
Honda vehicles use an electronic load detection (ELD) circuit in the charging system to reduce fuel
consumption. The alternator has two modes; low output and high output. When the vehicle is
cruising and there is a light electrical load, the alternator switches to the low output mode that
produces about
12.5 V and low amperage. When the vehicle load increases (the customer turns on the headlights,
the seat heaters, the rear defroster, etc.), the alternator switches to the high output mode that
raises the voltage and amperage.
ALTERNATOR TEST
For more information on the OTC tester, refer to its user guide. Besides the one that came with the
tool, you can also find the guide online under General Publications, Tool Information.
1. Question the customer about the events that led up to the problem. Many charging system
complaints are caused by leaving the headlights or interior
lights on, headlight flicker, or installing aftermarket accessories with a high parasitic draw that
drains the battery.
2. Visually inspect the battery cables and grounding straps to confirm the connections are clean
and tight. If there are any damaged parts or loose
3. Test the vehicle battery with the GR-8. Refer to S/B 88-023, Battery Testing and Replacement.
^ Connect the positive (+) heavy load lead to the positive battery terminal.
5. Calibrate the OTC tester by holding the amp probe away from any conductors, and pressing the
ZERO AMPS button.
6. Connect the amp probe to the vehicle's negative battery cable. Make sure the arrow on the
probe points toward the vehicle's battery.
NOTE:
If the vehicle has a second battery negative cable, make sure the probe is around that as well.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 5426
8. Start the engine, set the parking brake to turn off the DRL (daytime running lights), and turn off
all other electrical accessories.
10. Raise and hold the engine speed at 2,000 rpm until RUN AT IDLE appears on the display.
NOTE:
Stand back from the battery, and do not place any objects on top of the OTC tester; it gets hot
during testing.
11. Let the engine idle until TEST COMPLETE appears on the display.
12. Press CONTINUE to see the results, and write them down. The first screen lists the
REGULATOR VOLTS. Press CONTINUE again to list the
PEAK AMPS.
13. Refer to the AMPERAGE LOAD SPECIFICATIONS table, and compare the vehicle results
against the listed amperage value.
Is the vehicle amperage (PEAK AMPS) equal to or greater than the value listed in the AMPERAGE
table?
14. Check the regulator voltage you wrote down in step 12.
^ If it's between 13.5 and 15.1 V, the alternator is OK. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
^ If it's not between 13.5 and 15.1 V, replace the alternator, and retest.
NOTE:
The amperage values listed below are used for testing purposes and represent 75% of the
alternator's maximum output.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Ignition Switch: Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5435
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5436
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Test
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
6. If the continuity checks do not agree with the table, replace the ignition switch. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
Replacement
SRS components are located in the area. Review the SRS component locations, and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. Make sure
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover, and the
steering column covers. 4. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the ignition switch (B).
5. Remove the two screws and the ignition switch. 6. Install in the reverse order of removal. 7. After
reconnecting the battery, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then enter the audio presets.
1. Disconnect the BLK/WHT harness connector from the S terminal. 2. Make a connection for this
test using the thickest (gauge) wire possible (preferably the same gauge as used on the vehicle).
NOTE: To avoid damaging the starter, never leave the battery connected for more than 5 seconds.
3. Connect the battery as shown. If the starter pinion moves out, it is working properly. 4.
Disconnect the battery from the starter as shown. If the pinion retracts immediately, it is working
properly.
5. Remove the starter. 6. Clamp the starter securely in a vise. 7. Connect the starter to the battery
as shown, and confirm that the motor runs and keeps rotating.
8. If the electric current meets the specification when the battery voltage is at 11.5 V, the starter is
working properly.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
then disconnect the positive cable. 3. Remove the battery and battery box. 4. Remove the air
cleaner assembly. 5. Remove the intake air duct. 6. Disconnect the starter cable (A) from the B
terminal and the BLK/WHT harness connector (B) from the S terminal, then remove the upper
radiator
7. Remove the two bolts holding the starter, then remove the starter.
Installation
2. Connect the starter cable (A) to the B terminal and the BLK/WHT harness connector (B) to the S
terminal, then install the upper radiator hose
bracket (C). Make sure the starter cable crimped side of the ring terminal faces away from the
starter when you connect it.
3. Install the intake air duct. 4. Install the air cleaner assembly. 5. Install the battery and battery
box. 6. Clean the battery posts and cable terminals, then assemble them, and apply grease to
prevent corrosion. 7. Turn the IMA battery module switch OFF.
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8. Start the engine to make sure the starter operates properly. 9. Turn the IMA battery module
switch ON.
10. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then
enter the audio presets. 11. Set the clock (on vehicles without navigation). 12. If the IMA battery
level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it between 3,500 rpm and
4,000 rpm without load (in N or
Starter Overhaul
Disassembly/Reassembly
Starter Overhaul
1. Remove the starter. 2. Disassemble the starter as shown at the beginning of this procedure. 3.
Inspect the armature for wear or damage from contact with the permanent magnet. If there is wear
or damage, replace the armature.
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4. Check the commutator (A) surface. If the surface is dirty or burnt, resurface it with an emery
cloth or a lathe to the specifications in step 5, or
5. Check the commutator diameter. If the diameter is below the service limit, replace the armature.
- If the commutator runout is within the service limit, check the commutator for carbon dust or brass
chips between the segments.
- If the commutator runout is not within the service limit, replace the armature.
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7. Check the mica depth (A). If the mica is too high (B), undercut the mica with a hacksaw blade to
the proper depth. Cut away all the mica (C)
between the commutator segments. The undercut should not be too shallow, too narrow, or
V-shaped (D).
8. Check for continuity between the segments of the commutator. If there is an open circuit
between any segments, replace the armature.
9. Place the armature (A) on an armature tester (B). Hold a hacksaw blade (C) on the armature
core. If the blade is attracted to the core or vibrates
while the core is turned, the armature is shorted. Replace the armature.
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10. Use an ohmmeter to check for continuity between the commutator (A) and the armature coil
core (B), and between the commutator and the
11. Measure the brush length. If it is not within the service limit, replace the brush holder assembly.
12. Check for continuity between the (+) brushes (A) and (-) brushes (B). If there is continuity,
replace the brush holder assembly.
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Planetary Gear Inspection
13. Check the planetary gears (A) and internal ring gear (B). Replace them if they are worn or
damaged.
14. Holding the drive gear (A), turn the gear shaft (B) clockwise. Check that the drive gear comes
out to the other end. If the drive gear does not move
15. Holding the drive gear, turn the gear shaft counterclockwise. The gear shaft should rotate
freely. If the gear shaft does not rotate smoothly, replace
16. If the starter drive gear is worn or damaged, replace the overrunning clutch assembly; the gear
is not available separately. Check the condition of
the flywheel ring gear. Replace it if the starter drive gear teeth are damaged.
Starter Reassembly
17. Install the brush into the brush holder, and set the armature (A) in the brush holder (B).
NOTE: To seat the new brushes, slip a strip of # 500 or # 600 sandpaper, with the grit side up,
between the commutator and each brush, and smoothly rotate the armature. The contact surface of
the brushes will be sanded to the same contour as the commutator.
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18. While squeezing a spring (C), insert it in the hole on the brush holder, and push it until it
bottoms. Repeat this for the other three springs (D, E,
and F).
19. Install the armature and brush holder assembly into the housing.
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5494
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5495
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5497
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5498
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5499
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5500
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5501
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5502
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5503
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5504
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5508
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5510
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5511
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5512
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5513
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5514
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5515
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5516
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5517
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5518
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5519
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5520
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5521
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5522
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Connector Views
226. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front And Accessory Power Socket Relay, Console
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5523
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams
Wiring Diagrams
Diagram 155-0
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5524
Diagram 155-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5525
Accessory Power Sockets Circuit Diagram
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Power Relay Test
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Power Relay Test > Page 5528
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Front Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With audio.
- With navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (6).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Remove the accessory power socket panel (A) and disconnect
the 2P connector (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With audio.
- With navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (6).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Remove the accessory power socket panel (A) and disconnect
the 2P connector (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5551
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5552
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5560
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5561
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5565
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5567
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5568
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5569
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5570
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5572
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5573
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5579
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5622
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5629
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5630
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5635
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5636
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Replace Connector Terminals
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5675
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5677
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5678
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5679
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5681
7. Crimp the insulation crimp.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5682
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5683
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5684
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5685
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector >
Component Information > Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5686
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Circuit Schematics
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5777
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5778
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5780
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5781
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5782
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5783
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5784
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5785
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5786
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5787
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5791
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5793
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5794
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Diagrams
> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5795
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5796
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5797
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5798
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5799
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5800
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5801
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5802
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5803
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5804
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5805
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Connector Views
226. Accessory Power Socket Relay, Front And Accessory Power Socket Relay, Console
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5806
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Electrical Diagrams
Wiring Diagrams
Diagram 155-0
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5807
Diagram 155-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
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> Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5808
Accessory Power Sockets Circuit Diagram
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Auxiliary Power Outlet > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Power Relay Test
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Power Relay Test
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
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and Inspection > Power Relay Test > Page 5811
Auxiliary Power Outlet: Testing and Inspection Front Accessory Power Socket Test/Replacement
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With audio.
- With navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (6).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Remove the accessory power socket panel (A) and disconnect
the 2P connector (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
- With audio.
- With navigation.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the front accessory power socket (6).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
NOTE: If both the front and console accessory power sockets do not work, check the No. 35 (7.5
A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Remove the accessory power socket panel (A) and disconnect
the 2P connector (B).
3. Inspect the connector terminals to make sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose, or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
4. Turn the ignition switch to ACC (I), and measure the voltage between the No. 1 terminal and
body ground. There should be battery voltage.
5. Check for continuity between the No. 2 terminal and body ground. There should be continuity.
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5834
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5835
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5837
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Information and Instructions > Page 5838
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5839
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5840
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5841
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5842
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5843
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5844
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5848
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5850
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5851
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5852
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5853
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5854
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5855
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5856
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5857
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5858
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information and Instructions > Page 5859
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5860
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5861
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5862
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5895
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5896
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5898
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Information and Instructions > Page 5899
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Information and Instructions > Page 5900
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Information and Instructions > Page 5901
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5902
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5903
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5904
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5905
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5909
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5911
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5912
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5913
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5914
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5915
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5916
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information and Instructions > Page 5917
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5918
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Fuse Block > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 5919
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information and Instructions > Page 5921
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Replace Connector Terminals
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock,
found on most connectors on some models, is an additional locking device on the connector
housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5958
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5960
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5961
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5962
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5964
7. Crimp the insulation crimp.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5965
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair How to Install Pigtail Terminals
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5966
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5967
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5968
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Power and Ground Distribution > Multiple Junction Connector > Component Information >
Service and Repair > How to Replace Connector Terminals > Page 5969
Multiple Junction Connector: Service and Repair Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the starter cable (A) and the DC-DC converter cable (B) from the under-hood
fuse/relay box.
5. Remove the bottom cover from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 6. Disconnect the connectors
from the under-hood fuse/relay box. 7. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the
relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-hood fuse/relay box, then install the
under-hood fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio
system or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets. Set the clock (on
vehicles
without navigation).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and precautions
and procedures before performing repairs or servicing.
Removal
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is to LOCK (0). 3.
Disconnect the negative battery cable, then disconnect the positive cable, and wait at least 3
minutes. 4. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 5. Disconnect the connectors from the
fuse side of the under-dash fuse/relay box (A).
6. Remove the mounting bolt, and pull the fuse/relay box away from the body. 7. Disconnect the
connectors from the back side of the under-dash fuse/relay box, then remove the under-dash
fuse/relay box. 8. Carefully remove the relays by prying under the base of the relay.
NOTE: Do not use pliers. Pliers will damage the relays, which could cause the engine to stall or not
start.
Installation
1. Install the relays and connect the connectors to the under-dash fuse/relay box, then install the
under-dash fuse/relay box in the reverse order of
removal.
2. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal. 3. Connect the positive cable to the
battery, then connect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Register the immobilizer system with the
HDS.
NOTE: The imoes unit is built into the MICU which is part of the under-dash fuse/relay box.
Because of this construction, the imoes must be registered, or the vehicle will not start.
5. Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped) then enter
the audio presets. Set the clock (on vehicles
without navigation).
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6062
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6065
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6066
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6067
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: Customer Interest Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6074
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6075
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6076
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6077
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6079
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page 6080
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6086
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6089
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6090
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6091
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
Alignment: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6098
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6099
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6100
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6101
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
equipment manufacturer's instructions.
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6103
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > 06-068 > May > 09 > Steering/Suspension - Vehicle Pulls Left/Right > Page
6104
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6105
Alignment: By Symptom
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6106
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6109
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6110
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6111
Disclaimer
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Upper Control Arm Kit:
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6112
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6115
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6116
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6117
Disclaimer
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
Rear Upper Control Arm Kit:
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6118
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
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Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
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1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6123
Disclaimer
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6125
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls to the right, attach the bracket and weights to
the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel,
and remove the weights until the vehicle drives in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6126
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
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DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6128
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
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1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6131
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6132
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC. Technical
Service Bulletin # 06-068 Date: 090502
06-068
May 2, 2009
*Vehicle Pulls or Drifts, and/or Steering Wheel Is Off-Center (Supersedes 06-068, Vehicle Pulling
or Drifting, dated October 4, 2007, to revise the information marked by asterisks) (Replaces
90-011, Steering Wheel Off-Center Adjustment at PDI)*
*REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
While driving on a straight road, the vehicle pulls or drifts to the right or left.
BACKGROUND
New tools were developed to help you diagnose and correct a pulling and/or steering wheel
off-center issue. There is a diagnosis worksheet included to take on your test-drive and record your
findings. These values are used to build the 15-digit DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that is required
for your warranty claim. The last step in each repair procedure helps you create the correct code.
In the rare case that you have to repair a vehicle that pulls and has the steering wheel off-center,
use REPAIR PROCEDURE B to file your warranty claim.
For more information, refer to Training Module SSC 44 - Steering Drift or Pull Interactive Service
Bulletin.
PROBABLE CAUSES
^ Wheel alignment
^ Tires
^ Off-center steering wheel (no pulling or drifting, but a customer may believe this is the case)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Diagnose the problem using the special tools and the worksheet on page 4 that guides you to one
of four repair procedures.
TOOL INFORMATION
T/N O7AAJ-001A300
T/N 07AAJ-001A400
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
TOOL DESCRIPTIONS
The holding force gauge measures the amount of pull on the vehicle. It is a bracket that counts as
one weight, plus five removable weights.
During the test-drive, attach the bracket and the weights to the steering wheel on the side opposite
the pulling direction. For example, if the vehicle pulls
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6134
to the right, attach the bracket and weights to the left side of the steering wheel. Start with the
maximum amount of weight on the steering wheel, and remove the weights until the vehicle drives
in a straight line.
When recording the pull on the worksheet, write down the direction of the pull (lefi or right) and the
number of weights required to balance the pull (one through six). For example, if you have the
bracket and two weights on the steering wheel, then record this as three weights.
NOTE:
The road crown gauge measures the amount of road crown. Almost all roads have a crown to help
drain water during rainstorms. Use the suction cup to attach the road crown gauge bracket to the
vehicle in a vertical position. If necessary, bend the bracket until the gauge is vertical. Once you
attach and align the road crown gauge, calibrate the gauge to zero. There are two ways to calibrate
the gauge:
^ Park the vehicle on a level surface, such as an alignment rack, and calibrate the gauge by
moving the gauge until the ball is on the zero mark.
^ If you do not have a perfectly flat surface, park the vehicle on a reasonably flat surface and note
the gauge reading. Turn the vehicle 1800 and, with the tires in the same spot, note the new gauge
reading. Then move the gauge half of the difference. For example, if your first reading is +3 and,
after moving the vehicle, the gauge reads -1, then the difference is 4 degrees. Position the gauge
to read +1.
NOTE:
You must calibrate the gauge with the same weight in the vehicle that you will use for the test-drive.
If you plan to have an assistant help you during the test-drive, calibrate the gauge while both of you
are sitting in the vehicle.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6135
The steering wheel offset gauge is a sticker that attaches to the steering wheel and the steering
column cover. Place the sticker on the steering wheel when the steering wheel is straight. When
you test-drive the vehicle, you can read how many millimeters the steering wheel is off-center.
NOTE:
If the vehicle is pulling, repairing the pull may correct the steering wheel offset.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6136
DIAGNOSTIC WORKSHEET
REPAIR PROCEDURE A
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6137
NOTE:
Do this repair procedure if, after doing step 10 of the test-drive, the vehicle pulled in the opposite
direction after you swapped the front tires.
1. Swap wheels 2 and 4 on the passenger's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 2, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, put wheels 2 and 4 back to their original positions, and go to step 2.
2. Swap wheels 1 and 3 on the driver's side of the vehicle, and test-drive again.
^ If the pull goes away, replace the tire on wheel 1, then go to step 3.
^ If the pull does not go away, use a known-good tire in position 1 and continue diagnosis.
3. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
REPAIR PROCEDURE B
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6138
1. Place the vehicle on a commercially available, computerized, four-wheel alignment rack, and
record the following measurements. Follow the
NOTE:
2. If any measurement is out of specification, inspect the front suspension for any damage. Repair
any damaged parts before continuing your diagnosis.
3. Determine how the front wheel camber is affecting the pull. Pick the combination of left- and
right-front camber that best matches the vehicle you are
repairing, then note the camber thrust direction for that combination:
NOTE:
^ If the camber of both front wheels is negative, but one wheel is grossly more negative than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be opposite the wheel with more negative camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more negative, the camber thrust direction is right).
^ If the camber of both front wheels is positive, but one wheel is grossly more positive than the
other, the camber thrust direction will be the same as the wheel with more positive camber (for
example, if the left-front wheel is more positive, the camber thrust direction is left).
NOTE:
The front wheels are being viewed from the rear of the vehicle.
^ Depending which way you need to shift the subframe, insert a pry bar between the subframe and
body at both the front and rear positions of the subframe.
NOTE:
Be careful not to damage the vehicle. You could bend and damage the frame and/or body if you
apply too much pressure.
^ Press on both pry bars to shift the subframe. It will move only a few millimeters. This should
adjust the camber about 0.2-0.5°.
^ While holding the subframe in place, have an assistant torque the subframe bolts to their proper
torque.
^ Adjust the camber by moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
NOTE:
Some vehicles have special pinch bolts that allow more adjustment. For more information, refer to
the parts catalog.
^ Reinstall the front wheels and lower the vehicle. Bounce the front of the vehicle several times to
stabilize the suspension.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6140
6. Test-drive the vehicle to make sure it no longer pulls. If the steering wheel is now off-center by
more than 2 mm, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE C.
7. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
NOTE:
REPAIR PROCEDURE C
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right until it stops.
^ Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, and count the number of revolutions until it stops.
^ Divide the number of revolutions in half, and turn the steering wheel until it is centered. For
example, if it takes four revolutions of the steering wheel to go from lock to lock, then two turns is
centered.
^ If the steering wheel is off-center by a large amount (20 mm or more), it may not be centered on
the steering column shaft. Reinstall the steering wheel before going to step 2.
2. Place the vehicle on a lift, turn the steering wheel until it is centered, and then raise the vehicle.
3. Adjust the tie-rods. Use your measurements from question 13 of the test-drive to make your
adjustment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Technical Service Bulletins for Alignment: > Page 6141
^ If the wheels are pointed to the right, shorten the driver's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
passenger's side.
^ If the wheels are pointed to the left, shorten the passenger's side tie-rod, and lengthen the
driver's side.
^ Each 360° turn of the tie-rod equals about 8 mm of steering wheel adjustment. For example, a
steering wheel is off-center by 4 mm with the front wheels pointed right (when the steering wheel is
centered). To correct the off-center, shorten the driver's side tie-rod by a half-turn, and lengthen the
passenger's side tie-rod by a half-turn.
4. Use your diagnosis worksheet to fill in the following table and build your 15-digit DTC.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Page 6142
Alignment: Specifications
Caster angle
Camber angle
Front ....................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................. -0°03'±30' Maximum difference between the front right and
left side .........................................................................................................................................
0°35' Rear ............................................................................................................................................
...................................................... -1°39' + 1°05' - 0°45'
Toe-in
Turning angle
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Page 6143
Wheel Alignment
The suspension can be adjusted for front camber, front toe, and rear toe. However, each of these
adjustments are related to each other. For example, when you adjust camber, the toe will change.
Therefore, you must adjust the front wheel alignment whenever you adjust, camber or toe.
Pre-Alignment Checks
For proper inspection and adjustment of the wheel alignment, do these checks:
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Make sure the suspension is
not modified. 3. Check the tire size and pressure.
Tire pressure (at cold): Front/Rear: 220 kPa (2.2 kgf/cm2, 32 psi)
4. Check the runout of the wheels and tires. 5. Check the suspension ball joints. (Hold a tire with
your hands, and move it up and down and right and left to check for wobbling.)
6. Bounce the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Check that the
steering column is set at the center tilt and telescopic position.
Caster Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
^ If the measurement is not within specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
Camber Inspection
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Camber angle: Front: -0°03'±30' (Maximum difference between the front right and left side: 0°35')
Rear: -1°39' + 1°05' - 0°45'
^ If the measurement for the front camber is outside the specification, go to the front camber
adjustment.
^ If the measurement for the rear camber is outside the specification, check for bent or damaged
suspension components.
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Front Camber Adjustment
The front camber can be adjusted by exchanging one or both of the damper pinch bolts with a
smaller diameter adjusting bolt. The difference between the adjusting bolt diameter and the pinch
bolt hole diameter allows for a small range of adjustment.
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Loosen the damper pinch bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle by
moving the bottom of the damper within the range of the damper pinch bolt
free play.
4. Tighten the damper pinch bolts to the specified torque. 5. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake
disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 6. Lower the vehicle to the ground,
and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 7. Measure
the camber angle.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 9.
Remove the front wheels.
10. Replace the damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts (A), and adjust the camber angle.
NOTE: ^
Install the washers (B) included the adjusting bolt set between the front damper and the self-locking
nut.
^ The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±25' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper
pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt.
^ The camber angle can be adjusted up to 50' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the
adjusting bolts.
11. Tighten the adjusting bolts to the specified torque value. 12. Clean the mating surfaces of the
brake disc and the inside of the wheel, then install the front wheels. 13. Lower the vehicle to the
ground, and bounce the front of the vehicle up and down several times to settle the suspension. 14.
Measure the camber angle. If the camber angle is not within specification, repeat steps 8 through
13 to readjust the camber angle. If the camber
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Page 6145
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Set the steering column to the center tilt and center telescopic position, then center the steering
wheel spokes, and install a steering wheel holder
tool.
3. Loosen the tie-rod locknuts (A) while holding the flat surface sections (B) of the tie-rod end with a
wrench, and turn both tie-rods (C) until the
4. After adjusting, tighten the tie-rod locknuts. Reposition the rack-end boot if it is twisted or
displaced. 5. Go to the rear toe inspection/adjustment.
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Release the parking brake to avoid an incorrect measurement. 2. Check the toe.
3. Hold the adjusting bolt (A) on the trailing arm (B), and remove the self-locking nut (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 6146
4. Replace the self-locking nut with a new one, and lightly tighten it.
NOTE: ^
^ Reassemble the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the eccentric facing up.
5. Adjust the rear toe by turning the adjusting bolt until the toe is correct. 6. Tighten the self-locking
nut while holding the adjusting bolt.
Use commercially available computerized four wheel alignment equipment to measure wheel
alignment (caster, camber, toe, and turning angle). Follow the equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
1. Turn the wheel right and left while applying the brake, and measure the turning angle of both
wheels.
2. If the turning angle is not within the specifications, check for bent or damaged suspension
components.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Steering > Steering Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Steering Control Module: Locations
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then
write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is in LOCK (0), then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery. 3. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover. 4. Remove the
passenger's kick panel. 5. Disconnect EPS control unit connector A (2P), connector B (2P),
connector C (2P), and connector D (28P).
6. Remove the nuts (E) from the EPS control unit (F). 7. Remove the EPS control unit. 8. Install the
EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 9. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery
and do the following tasks:
NOTE: If the IMA battery level, gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
^ Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio
presets.
^ Make sure that the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
^ If the EPS control unit is replaced, the EPS control unit must memorize the torque sensor neutral
position.
10. After installation, start the engine, and let it idle. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Check that the EPS indicator does not
come on.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor
System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6159
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6160
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6162
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6163
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6164
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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System - VT55 TPMS Update Information > Page 6165
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: To disconnect the TPMS control unit from its bracket, insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket shown in (D) to release the hook, then slide out the
TPMS unit.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer
tool.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6173
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6174
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Relays and Modules - Steering and Suspension > Relays and
Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6175
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6177
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6178
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6179
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6180
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6181
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6182
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6184
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6185
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6187
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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The EPS control unit stores the torque sensor neutral position in the EEPROM. The torque sensor
neutral position must be memorized whenever the gearbox, the EPS motor, or the EPS control unit
is replaced.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not effected when erasing the DTCs.
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The EPS control unit stores the torque sensor neutral position in the EEPROM. The torque sensor
neutral position must be memorized whenever the gearbox, the EPS motor, or the EPS control unit
is replaced.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not effected when erasing the DTCs.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6211
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6214
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6215
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6216
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6220
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6221
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6224
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: ^
If you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) before memorizing all four sensor IDs, the memorizing ID
is canceled.
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire back to specifications. 17. Repeat step
12 to 16 for all the other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the
Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 6231
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
NOTE: ^
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6233
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core to deflate the
tire. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
NOTICE: Note these items to avoid damaging the tire pressure sensor: ^
^ Position the wheel as shown so the valve stem (B) is 90 degrees from the bead breaker (C) as
shown.
^ Do not position the bead breaker of the tire changer too close to the rim.
5. Position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C)
and will move away from it when the machine
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and the washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with
the valve stem (C) from the wheel.
NOTE: Check the nut and the washer, if they have deterioration or damage, replace them with new
ones during reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6234
7. Remove and replace the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, or when replacing the tire.
Installation
NOTE: Use only wheels that have a "TPMS" stamp (A) on them.
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface (E) should not exceed
the protrusion (F) of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing caught in the bead of the tire when
assembling the tire. Do not twist the sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Sensors and Switches - Steering and Suspension > Sensors and
Switches - Wheels and Tires > Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6235
damage or deform the valve stem grommet.
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron
(B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will move
away from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
^ Driver 07749-0010000
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6240
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or the brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6241
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new cotter pin after tightening the nut, and bend its end as
shown.
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C), then the bolt (D).
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6242
13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and the self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper pinch bolts and the new self-locking nuts.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The inner driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and the driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install a lock pin as shown after tightening the new castle nut.
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and the nuts, then raise the
suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and the
tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and the
mating surfaces of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from falling when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6244
5. Wash the knuckle and the hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press
a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base and a press.
NOTE: ^
Install the wheel bearing with the wheel speed sensor magnetic encoder (E) (brown color), toward
the inside of the knuckle.
^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, metal debris, and other foreign material from the encoder surface.
^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing.
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
POWER STEERING SYSTEM FLUID TYPE Honda Power Steering Fluid. Always use Honda
Power Steering Fluid. Using any other type of power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid
can cause increased wear and poor steering in cold weather.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Motor > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Power Steering Motor: Service and Repair
Removal
NOTE: Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the steering gearbox.
1. Remove the steering gearbox. 2. Disconnect the torque sensor 3P connector (A) from the
steering gearbox, then remove the wire harness clamp bolts and the ground terminal (B).
3. Remove the EPS motor (A) from the steering gearbox, then remove the 0-ring (B) and discard it.
Installation
1. Clean the mating surface of the EPS motor (A) and the steering gearbox.
2. Apply a thin coat of silicone grease to the new 0-ring (B), and carefully fit it on the EPS motor. 3.
Apply silicone grease into the EPS motor shaft (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Power Steering > Power Steering Motor > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6253
4. Set the EPS motor on the steering gearbox by engaging the EPS motor shaft and the worm shaft
(0). 5. Turn the EPS motor two or three times to the right and left about 45 degrees. Make sure the
EPS motor is evenly seated on the steering gearbox,
and that the 0-ring is not pinched between the mating surfaces.
6. Loosely install the EPS motor mounting bolts (E), then turn the steering wheel two or three times
to the right and left about 45 degrees. 7. Tighten the EPS motor mounting bolts to the specified
torque. 8. Connect the torque sensor 3P connector (A) to the wire steering gearbox, then install the
wire harness clamp bolts and the ground terminal (B).
^ Make sure the EPS motor and the EPS wires are not caught or pinched by any parts.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then
write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is in LOCK (0), then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery. 3. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover. 4. Remove the
passenger's kick panel. 5. Disconnect EPS control unit connector A (2P), connector B (2P),
connector C (2P), and connector D (28P).
6. Remove the nuts (E) from the EPS control unit (F). 7. Remove the EPS control unit. 8. Install the
EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 9. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery
and do the following tasks:
NOTE: If the IMA battery level, gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
^ Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio
presets.
^ Make sure that the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
^ If the EPS control unit is replaced, the EPS control unit must memorize the torque sensor neutral
position.
10. After installation, start the engine, and let it idle. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Check that the EPS indicator does not
come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Relays and Modules - Steering > Steering Control
Module > Component Information > Locations
Steering Control Module: Locations
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then
write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is in LOCK (0), then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery. 3. Remove the passenger's dashboard undercover. 4. Remove the
passenger's kick panel. 5. Disconnect EPS control unit connector A (2P), connector B (2P),
connector C (2P), and connector D (28P).
6. Remove the nuts (E) from the EPS control unit (F). 7. Remove the EPS control unit. 8. Install the
EPS control unit in the reverse order of removal. 9. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery
and do the following tasks:
NOTE: If the IMA battery level, gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
^ Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio
presets.
^ Make sure that the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
^ If the EPS control unit is replaced, the EPS control unit must memorize the torque sensor neutral
position.
10. After installation, start the engine, and let it idle. Turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock
several times. Check that the EPS indicator does not
come on.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Sensors and Switches - Steering > Steering Angle
Sensor > Component Information > Locations
The EPS control unit stores the torque sensor neutral position in the EEPROM. The torque sensor
neutral position must be memorized whenever the gearbox, the EPS motor, or the EPS control unit
is replaced.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not effected when erasing the DTCs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Angle Sensor > Component Information >
Locations
The EPS control unit stores the torque sensor neutral position in the EEPROM. The torque sensor
neutral position must be memorized whenever the gearbox, the EPS motor, or the EPS control unit
is replaced.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not effected when erasing the DTCs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before servicing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when doing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) or the
battery cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you
have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write
down the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock (without navigation).
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6280
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C).
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
these things: -
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for
3 minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the
connectors from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned to LOCK (0).
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection after Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6282
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- Do not use any silicone based cleaners or lubricants on any SRS connectors or terminals.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6283
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6284
Opening the SRS Unit Shorting Connectors for Diagnosis
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electrical contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6285
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid. Do not spray
steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait
for 3 minutes before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6286
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6287
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the
seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 6288
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B
(28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Steering Column Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Steering Column Cover: Service and Repair
NOTE: ^
1. Release the lock lever (A), and adjust the steering column to full tilt down position and to the full
telescopic pull position.
2. Insert a suitable sized screwdriver or equivalent tool (B) along the guide rib (C) into the lever
hole (D) in the lower column cover (E). 3. Release the hook (F) located on the left side of the upper
column cover (G).
NOTE: The right side hook (H) of the upper column cover can't be released from the inside.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the left, and release the left pawl (I) of the upper column cover, while
pushing the lower column cover from the front
side.
5. Turn the steering wheel to the right, and release the right pawl (J) of the upper column cover
while pushing the lower column cover from the front
side.
6. Remove the cover by lightly pulling it up by releasing the right side hook (H) of the upper column
cover.
NOTICE: Carefully release the pawls, note the hooks (K) may break when the upper column cover
is pulled up too hard.
7. Remove the three screws, then remove the lower column cover (A).
8. Install the upper and the lower column cover in the reverse order of removal, and push the hooks
into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Column > Steering Column Lock > Component
Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the steering column. 2. Center-punch each of the two shear bolts, and drill the heads of
the bolts off with a 5 mm (3/16 in.) drill bit. Be careful not to damage the switch
8. Register the immobilizer control unit-receiver, and make sure the immobilizer system works
properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Gear > Steering Gear Mount > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Steering Gear Mount: Service and Repair
1. Remove the steering gearbox. 2. Position the 34 mm socket wrench (A) on the flange part of the
gearbox housing with a washer (B), a 10 x 105 mm flange bolt (C), and a 10 mm
3. Hold the 10 mm nut with a wrench, and tighten the 10 x 105 mm flange bolt with another wrench.
Remove the gearbox mount cushion (E). 4. Apply a mild soap and water solution to the new
gearbox mount cushion surface (A), then place the mount cushion on the gearbox mounting
cushion hole.
5. Using a flat-tipped screwdriver, push the edge of the mount cushion (B) until it is about 1/3 of the
way into the gearbox housing.
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the surface of the mount cushion when pushing it with the
flat-tipped screwdriver.
6. Position the 34 mm socket wrench on the flange part of the gearbox housing with a washer,
flange bolt, and a nut as shown. 7. Install the gearbox mount cushion by tightening the nut until the
mount cushion edges (A) contact the gearbox flange surface.
8. Install the steering gearbox. 9. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Steering Wheel Removal
Steering Wheel: Service and Repair Steering Wheel Removal
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped),
then write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition switch is in LOCK (0), then disconnect
the negative cable from the battery. 3. Align the front wheels straight ahead, then remove the
driver's airbag from the steering wheel. 4. Disconnect the cable reel subharness connector (A).
5. Loosen the steering wheel bolt (B). 6. Install a commercially available steering wheel puller (A)
on the steering wheel (B). Free the steering wheel from the steering column shaft by
Do not tap on the steering wheel or the steering column shaft when removing the steering wheel.
^ If you thread the puller bolts (D) into the wheel hub more than five threads, the bolts will hit the
cable reel and damage it. To prevent this, install a pair of jam nuts five threads up on each puller
bolt.
7. Remove the steering wheel puller, then remove the steering wheel bolt and the steering wheel
from the steering column.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Steering Wheel Removal > Page 6303
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Steering Wheel Removal > Page 6304
1. Before installing the steering wheel, make sure the front wheels are pointing straight ahead, then
center the cable reel (A). Do this by first rotating
the cable reel clockwise until it stops. Then rotate it counterclockwise about three full turns. The
arrow mark (B) on the cable reel label point should point straight up.
2. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown. Install the steering
wheel on to the steering column shaft, making sure
the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and the tabs of the turn signal
canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the
steering wheel.
3. Install the steering wheel bolt (A), and tighten it to the specified torque. Connect the cable reel
subharness connector (B). Make sure the wire
4. Install the driver's airbag, and confirm that the system operating properly. 5. Reconnect the
negative cable to the battery, and do these tasks:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Steering > Steering Wheel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Steering Wheel Removal > Page 6306
NOTE: If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it
between 3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least
three segments.
^ Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and
then go off.
^ Enter the anti-theft code for the audio or the navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio
presets.
1. Disconnect the tie-rod ball joint from the knuckle. 2. Remove the tie-rod end from the rack end.
3. Remove the tie-rod ball joint boot from the tie-rod end, and wipe the old grease off the ball pin. 4.
Pack the lower area of the ball pin (A) with fresh multipurpose grease.
5. Pack the interior of the new tie-rod ball joint boot (B) and lip (C) with fresh multipurpose grease.
Keep grease off the boot mounting area (D) and the tapered section (E) of the ball pin.
^ Do not allow dust, dirt, or other foreign materials to enter the boot.
6. Install the new tie-rod ball joint boot (A) using the bushing base. The boot must not have a gap at
the boot installation sections (B). After installing
the boot, check the ball pin tapered section for grease contamination, and wipe it if necessary.
7. In stall the tie-rod end to the rack end. 8. Connect the tie-rod ball joint to the knuckle. 9. Check
the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Specifications
Ball Joint: Specifications
Wear limit
NOTICE: Always use a ball joint remover to disconnect a ball joint. Do not strike the housing or any
other part of the ball joint connection to disconnect it.
07MAC-SL0A102 or 07MAC-SL0A202
1. Install a hex nut (A) onto the threads of the ball joint (B). Make sure the nut is flush with the ball
joint pin end to prevent damage to the threaded
2. Apply grease to the ball joint remover on the areas shown (A). This will ease installation of the
tool and prevent damage to the pressure bolt (B)
threads.
3. Loosen the pressure bolt (A), and install the ball joint remover as shown. Insert the jaws
carefully, making sure not to damage the ball joint boot.
NOTE: Fasten the safety chain (C) securely to a suspension arm or the subframe (D). Do not
fasten it to a brake line or wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front and Rear Suspension > Page 6317
4. After adjusting the adjusting bolt, make sure the head of the adjusting bolt is in the position
shown to allow the jaw (E) to pivot. 5. With a wrench, tighten the pressure bolt until the ball joint pin
pops loose from the ball joint connecting hole. If necessary, apply penetrating type
6. Remove the ball joint remover, then remove the nut from the end of the ball joint pin, and pull the
ball joint out of the ball joint connecting hole.
1. Remove the front wheel. 2. Remove the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm
(A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C) then the bolt (D).
3. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 4. Remove the spindle nut, and remove
the outboard joint (A) from the knuckle (B) by tapping the driveshaft end (C) with a soft face
hammer while
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and the driveshaft
outboard joint.
5. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install a lock pin as shown after tightening the new castle nut.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front and Rear Suspension > Page 6319
6. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the ball
joint remover, then remove the lower ball joint. 7. Install the lower ball joint in the reverse order of
removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and the nuts, then raise the
suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and the
tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and the
mating surfaces of the castle nuts.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces on the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
Attachment, 40 mm 07GAF-SE00200
1. Remove the lower ball joint. 2. Remove the boot. 3. Pack the interior and lip (A) of a new boot
with grease. Keep the grease off of the boot-to-lower ball joint housing mating surfaces (B).
4. Wipe the grease off the tapered portion of the ball joint pin (C), and pack fresh grease into the
base (D). Do not let dirt or other foreign materials
5. Install the boot on the ball joint, then squeeze it gently to force out any air. 6. Press the boot with
the attachment until the bottom seats on the lower ball joint housing (A) all the way around.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Ball Joint > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front and Rear Suspension > Page 6320
7. After installing a boot, wipe any grease off the exposed portion of the ball joint pin. 8. Install the
lower ball joint.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Control Arm: Customer Interest Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
6329
Tire Application Chart
Tire Replacement Information
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
6332
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
6333
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page
6334
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire
Wear
Control Arm: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire
Wear > Page 6340
Tire Application Chart
Tire Replacement Information
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire
Wear > Page 6343
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire
Wear > Page 6344
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Arm: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire
Wear > Page 6345
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension
Removal/Installation
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the front wheels. 3. Remove the flange nut (A) while holding the joint pin (B) with a hex
wrench (C), then disconnect both sides of the stabilizer link from the lower
arm (D).
4. Turn the stabilizer bar backward to gain easier access to the front side of the lower arm
mounting bolt. 5. Remove the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C), then the bolt (D).
6. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm. 7. Remove the front side of the lower arm
mounting bolt (A).
9. Install the lower arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
Bushing Replacement
NOTE: Replace the lower arm (A) as an assembly if the lower arm has the paint mark (B) around
the hole near the front bushing. The paint mark can also be seen around a hole on the bottom side
of the lower arm in the same area. Paint marks indicate a oversize bushing has been installed.
1. Press out the bushing (A) with the bushing driver, receiver set (attachment A), and a hydraulic
press, and remove the bushing from the lower arm
(B).
NOTE: Be careful not to damage the inside of the bushing hole when pressing on the bushing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6349
2. Clean the mating surfaces of the new bushing and the lower arm. 3. Position the tab (A) of the
bushing (B) with the lower arm (C) as shown.
4. Using a hydraulic press, bushing driver, and receiver set (attachments A and B), press in the
bushing into the lower arm. 5. Using a yellow oil-based paint marker, paint a mark (A) around the
hole (B) near the front bushing (C). Also paint a mark around the hole on the
NOTE: These marks are used to identify a lower arm that has had the bushing replaced. Do not
replace the bushing in a lower arm that has paint marks; you must replace the lower arm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Control Arm > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6350
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Position a floor jack at the connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle
(B).
5. Remove the flange bolt (B) from the knuckle, and remove the upper arm (C).
6. Install the upper arm in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts, then raise the suspension to load it
with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
2-door
4. Detach the floor wire harness clips (A). 5. Remove the bolts (B) and nuts (C), then remove the
middle cross-member gusset (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 6355
6. Install the gusset in the reverse order of removal. When installing the mounting bolts for the
middle cross-member gusset (A), torque the mounting
hardware in the sequence shown. If the mounting bolts are not torqued in this sequence, damage
to the quarter panel will occur.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 6356
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Rear Floor Upper Cross-Member Gusset Replacement
Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
^ Driver 07749-0010000
Knuckle/Hub Replacement
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6360
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or the brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6361
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new cotter pin after tightening the nut, and bend its end as
shown.
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C), then the bolt (D).
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6362
13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and the self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper pinch bolts and the new self-locking nuts.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The inner driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and the driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install a lock pin as shown after tightening the new castle nut.
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and the nuts, then raise the
suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and the
tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and the
mating surfaces of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from falling when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Front Steering Knuckle > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6364
5. Wash the knuckle and the hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press
a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base and a press.
NOTE: ^
Install the wheel bearing with the wheel speed sensor magnetic encoder (E) (brown color), toward
the inside of the knuckle.
^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, metal debris, and other foreign material from the encoder surface.
^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing.
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
Knuckle/Hub Bearing
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 6369
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
Knuckle Replacement
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
NOTE: Apply multipurpose grease to the mating surfaces on the knuckle and the O-ring (D) during
reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 6370
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
NOTE: Use the new upper arm mounting bolt during reassembly.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
NOTE: Use the new self-locking nut and the new adjusting bolt during reassembly.
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Rear Knuckle > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 6371
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the normal brake
system (except the servo unit and power unit). Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and
retighten it if necessary.
The EPS control unit stores the torque sensor neutral position in the EEPROM. The torque sensor
neutral position must be memorized whenever the gearbox, the EPS motor, or the EPS control unit
is replaced.
NOTE: The torque sensor neutral position is not effected when erasing the DTCs.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Link >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the center cap and the front wheel. 3. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and the flange nut
(B) while holding the respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), then remove the stabilizer
link (E).
4. Install the stabilizer link on the stabilizer bar (F) and the lower arm (G) with the joint pins set at
the center of their range of movement.
NOTE: The stabilizer link has a paint mark (H). Align the paint mark on the stabilizer link facing
rearward.
5. Install the new self-locking nut and the new flange nut, and lightly tighten them. 6. Place the floor
jack under the lower arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight. 7. Tighten
the self-locking nut and the flange nut to the specified torque values while holding the respective
joint pin with a hex wrench. 8. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel, then install the front wheel, and test-drive the vehicle. 9. After 5 minutes of driving, torque
the self-locking nut and the flange nut again to the specified torque values.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Stabilizer Bar, Sway Control > Stabilizer Link >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6383
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Remove the self-locking nut (A) and the flange nut (B) while holding the
respective joint pin (C) with a hex wrench (D), then remove the stabilizer
link (E).
4. Install the stabilizer link on the stabilizer bar (F) and the trailing arm (G) with the joint pins set at
the center of their range of movement.
NOTE: The stabilizer link has a paint mark (H). Align the paint mark on the stabilizer link facing
rearward.
5. Install the new self-locking nut and the new flange nut, and lightly tighten them. 6. Place a floor
jack under the trailing arm, and raise the suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight. 7. Tighten
the self-locking nut and the flange nut to the specified torque values while holding the respective
joint pin with a hex wrench. 8. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel, then install the rear wheel, and test-drive the vehicle. 9. After 5 minutes of driving, torque
the self-locking nut and the flange nut again to the specified torque value.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Removal
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6387
- Remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the upper member separator.
- If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper housing extension and front damper extension
A as an assembly.
Installation
1. Clamp the new damper housing, front wheelhouse, front damper extension, front bulkhead, and
measure the front compartment diagonally. 2. Check the body dimensions.
- Engine compartment
3. Tack weld the new parts and front bulkhead into position. 4. Temporarily install the front
subframe, and check the front side frame position. 5. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,
headlight, and front bumper, then check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body
lines
flow smoothly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6389
6. Do the main welding.
- Weld the damper housing (A), front wheelhouse (B), front damper extension A (C) and front
damper extension B (D).
- From the passenger's side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower (E) and damper housing
extension (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 6390
7. Weld the front damper extension B (A) and front end outrigger (B).
Passenger's Side
8. Install the new upper member separator (A) to the damper extension bulkhead (B).
NOTE: Apply the sealer (C) all the way around the separator and inside of the wheelhouse upper
member (D), without gaps.
Subframe Replacement
NOTE:
- After loosening the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones.
- When installing, align both installation reference holes in the subframe with both reference holes
in the body using a screwdriver or tapered punch as a guide.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement
Front Suspension
Removal
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then turn on the windshield wipers. Turn the ignition switch to
LOCK (0) when the wipers are near the
A-pillars.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 3.
Remove the front wheel. 4. Remove the wheel speed sensor harness clip (A) and the brake hose
bracket (B) from the damper. Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
5. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and the self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.
NOTE: Do not allow the knuckle to rotate too far outward. This may allow the driveshaft inboard
joint to come apart.
NOTE: ^
The damper springs are different, left and right. Mark the springs L and R before you continue.
Installation
NOTE: Install the service cap (B) and the lid (C) after tightening the flange nuts to the specified
torque value.
3. Loosely install the new damper pinch bolts (A) and the new self-locking nuts (B) to the damper
(C).
4. Raise the front suspension with a floor jack to load the suspension with the vehicle's weight. 5.
Tighten the flange nuts on top of the damper to the specified torque value. 6. Tighten the damper
pinch bolts to the specified torque value. 7. Install the wheel speed sensor harness clip (A) and the
brake hose bracket (B) to the damper (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6400
8. Install the service cap and the lid. 9. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside
of the wheel, then install the front wheel.
10. Check the wheel alignment, and adjust it if necessary. 11. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II),
then turn the wipers to the park positions, and turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Rear Suspension
Spring Replacement
Spring
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6401
Removal
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the rear wheel. 3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not
disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector.
4. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (C) from the bracket (D). 5. Position a floor jack at the
connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle (B).
6. Remove the flange bolt (C) that connects the trailing arm and the damper (D). 7. Disconnect the
stabilizer link from the trailing arm. 8. Remove the flange bolt (A) that connects the knuckle (B) and
the upper arm (C).
Installation
1. Install the spring mounting rubber (A), the spring (B) and the lower spring seat (C).
2. Align the bottom of the spring (A) and the lower spring seat (B) with the trailing arm (C) as
shown.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6403
3. Loosely install the new trailing arm front mounting bolts (A).
4. Loosely install the new flange bolt (A) that connects the knuckle (B) and the upper arm (C).
5. Slowly raise the jack until you can align the bolt hole with the holes in the trailing arm (A) and the
damper (B) and install the new flange bolt (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6404
6. Install the stabilizer link on the trailing arm with the new flange nut, and lightly tighten it. 7. Raise
the rear suspension with a floor jack to load the vehicle weight. 8. Tighten all mounting hardware to
the specified torque values. For stabilizer link torque specifications. 9. Install the wheel speed
sensor (A) and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) to the knuckle (C).
NOTE: Apply multipurpose grease to the mating surfaces on the knuckle and the 0-ring (D) during
reassembly.
10. Clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the wheel, then install the rear
wheel. 11. Check the wheel alignment, adjust it if necessary.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6405
Damper/Spring
Disassembly
wrench (C). Do not compress the spring more than necessary to remove the nut.
3. Release the pressure from the strut spring compressor, then disassemble the damper as shown
in the Exploded View.
Inspection
1. Reassemble the damper mounting base and the self-locking nut. 2. Compress the damper
assembly by hand, and check for smooth operation through a full stroke, both compression and
extension. The damper
should extend smoothly and constantly when compression is released. If it does not, the gas is
leaking and the damper should be replaced.
3. Check for oil leaks, abnormal noises, or binding during these tests.
Reassembly
1. Install the damper spring (A) on the upper spring mounting cushion (B) by aligning the upper end
(C) of the damper spring with the ledge portion
4. Align the bottom of the spring (B) and the stepped part of the lower spring seat (C). 5. Align the
damper bracket (A) and the damper mounting base (B) so that the "¤" stamp (C) points toward the
front.
6. Align the angle of the strut bolt (D) on the damper bracket as shown. 7. Install the new
self-locking nut (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Spring ( Coil / Leaf ) > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Replacement > Page 6408
8. Hold the damper shaft using a hex wrench (B), and tighten the self-locking nut using the strut nut
adapter (C) to the specified torque value. 9. Install the cap.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Strut Housing: Service and Repair
Symbols
The symbols in the mass production body welding diagrams and in the removal/installation carry
the following meanings
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6413
Removal
- Remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the upper member separator.
- If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper housing extension and front damper extension
A as an assembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6415
Installation
1. Clamp the new damper housing, front wheelhouse, front damper extension, front bulkhead, and
measure the front compartment diagonally. 2. Check the body dimensions.
- Engine compartment.
- Engine/transmission mount positions.
3. Tack weld the new parts and front bulkhead into position. 4. Temporarily install the front
subframe, and check the front side frame position. 5. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,
headlight, and front bumper, then check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body
lines
flow smoothly.
- Weld the damper housing (A), front wheelhouse (B), front damper extension A (C) and front
damper extension B (D).
- From the passenger's side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower (E) and damper housing
extension (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6416
7. Weld the front damper extension B (A) and front end outrigger (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Suspension Strut / Shock Absorber > Strut Housing
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 6417
Passenger's side
8. Install the new upper member separator (A) to the damper extension bulkhead (B).
NOTE: Apply the sealer (C) all the way around the separator and inside of the wheelhouse upper
member (D), without gaps.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the rear wheel. 3. Remove the rear floor under cover. 4. Remove the parking brake cable mounting
bolt (A) from the trailing arm (B).
5. Position a floor jack at the connecting point of the trailing arm (A) and the knuckle (B).
6. Remove the knuckle with the hub bearing unit. 7. Disconnect the stabilizer link from the trailing
arm. 8. Remove the spring. 9. Remove the trailing arm rear mounting bolt (A).
10. Lower the jack and remove the trailing arm. 11. Install the trailing arm in the reverse order of
removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components and lightly tighten the bolts, then raise the suspension to load it
with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play while by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
^ Driver 07749-0010000
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or the brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6428
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new cotter pin after tightening the nut, and bend its end as
shown.
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C), then the bolt (D).
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6429
13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and the self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper pinch bolts and the new self-locking nuts.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The inner driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and the driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install a lock pin as shown after tightening the new castle nut.
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and the nuts, then raise the
suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and the
tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and the
mating surfaces of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from falling when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6431
5. Wash the knuckle and the hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press
a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base and a press.
NOTE: ^
Install the wheel bearing with the wheel speed sensor magnetic encoder (E) (brown color), toward
the inside of the knuckle.
^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, metal debris, and other foreign material from the encoder surface.
^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing.
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
Knuckle/Hub Bearing
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6434
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
Knuckle Replacement
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
NOTE: Apply multipurpose grease to the mating surfaces on the knuckle and the O-ring (D) during
reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6435
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
NOTE: Use the new upper arm mounting bolt during reassembly.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
NOTE: Use the new self-locking nut and the new adjusting bolt during reassembly.
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Suspension > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6436
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the normal brake
system (except the servo unit and power unit). Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and
retighten it if necessary.
Spindle nut
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
........................... 181 N-m (18.5 kgf-m, 134 lbf-ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
NOTE: If you are going to remove heavy components such as the suspension or the fuel tank from
the rear of the vehicle, first support the front of the vehicle with tall safety stands. When substantial
weight is removed from the rear of the vehicle, the center of gravity can change, causing the
vehicle to tip forward on the lift.
Vehicle Lift
1. Position the lift blocks (A) under the vehicle's front support points (B) and rear support points (C).
2. Raise the lift a few inches, and rock the vehicle gently to be sure it is firmly supported. 3. Raise
the lift to its full height, and inspect the vehicle support points for solid contact with the lift blocks.
Safety Stands
To support the vehicle on safety stands, use the same support points (B and C) as for a frame
vehicle lift. Always use safety stands when working on or under any vehicle that is supported only
by a jack.
Floor Jack
1. When lifting the front of the vehicle, set the parking brake. When lifting the rear of the vehicle,
put the shift lever in the P position. 2. Block the wheels that are not being lifted. 3. Position the floor
jack under the front jacking bracket (A) or the rear jacking bracket (B). Center the jacking bracket
on the jack lift platform (C),
and jack up the vehicle high enough to fit the safety stands under it.
4. Position the safety stands under the support points, and adjust them so the vehicle is level. 5.
Lower the vehicle onto the stands.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6450
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6451
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6453
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6454
3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6455
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information > Page 6456
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6457
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: To disconnect the TPMS control unit from its bracket, insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket shown in (D) to release the hook, then slide out the
TPMS unit.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer
tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6464
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6465
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6466
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6468
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6469
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6470
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6471
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Relays and Modules - Wheels and Tires > Tire
Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6472
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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Sensor Tools > Page 6493
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6503
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS
Sensor Tools > Page 6504
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6505
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: ^
If you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) before memorizing all four sensor IDs, the memorizing ID
is canceled.
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire back to specifications. 17. Repeat step
12 to 16 for all the other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page
6509
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
NOTE: ^
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Sensors and Switches - Wheels and Tires >
Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6511
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core to deflate the
tire. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
NOTICE: Note these items to avoid damaging the tire pressure sensor: ^
^ Position the wheel as shown so the valve stem (B) is 90 degrees from the bead breaker (C) as
shown.
^ Do not position the bead breaker of the tire changer too close to the rim.
5. Position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C)
and will move away from it when the machine
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and the washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with
the valve stem (C) from the wheel.
NOTE: Check the nut and the washer, if they have deterioration or damage, replace them with new
ones during reassembly.
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6512
7. Remove and replace the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, or when replacing the tire.
Installation
NOTE: Use only wheels that have a "TPMS" stamp (A) on them.
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface (E) should not exceed
the protrusion (F) of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing caught in the bead of the tire when
assembling the tire. Do not twist the sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will
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Tire Pressure Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6513
damage or deform the valve stem grommet.
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron
(B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will move
away from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Low Tire Pressure
Indicator > Component Information > Locations
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
- If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
- If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit set one or more of these codes:
DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure returns to normal, the control unit turns off the
indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the control unit detects a problem in the system
during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the low tire pressure indicator, stores the
DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36, or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 6525
2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 6526
6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
Page 6528
13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information >
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3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
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Page 6530
7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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Page 6531
10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6532
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: To disconnect the TPMS control unit from its bracket, insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket shown in (D) to release the hook, then slide out the
TPMS unit.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer
tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6539
A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6540
^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6541
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6543
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6544
11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6546
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 6553
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 6575
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 6576
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 6577
22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools >
Page 6578
26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6579
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: ^
If you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) before memorizing all four sensor IDs, the memorizing ID
is canceled.
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire back to specifications. 17. Repeat step
12 to 16 for all the other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID > Page 6583
Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
NOTE: ^
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6585
Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core to deflate the
tire. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
NOTICE: Note these items to avoid damaging the tire pressure sensor: ^
^ Position the wheel as shown so the valve stem (B) is 90 degrees from the bead breaker (C) as
shown.
^ Do not position the bead breaker of the tire changer too close to the rim.
5. Position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C)
and will move away from it when the machine
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and the washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with
the valve stem (C) from the wheel.
NOTE: Check the nut and the washer, if they have deterioration or damage, replace them with new
ones during reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6586
7. Remove and replace the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, or when replacing the tire.
Installation
NOTE: Use only wheels that have a "TPMS" stamp (A) on them.
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface (E) should not exceed
the protrusion (F) of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing caught in the bead of the tire when
assembling the tire. Do not twist the sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6587
damage or deform the valve stem grommet.
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron
(B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will move
away from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Tires: Customer Interest Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6596
Tire Application Chart
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6599
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6600
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear > Page 6601
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
Tires: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear
08-001
Applies To: 2006-07 Civic 2-Door - ALL Except Si and Honda Accessory HFP Package 2006-07
Civic 4-Door - ALL Except Si 2006-07 Civic Hybrid - ALL 2008 Civic Hybrid - From VIN
JHMFA3...8S000001 thru JHMFA3...8S010456
Uneven or Rapid Rear Tire Wear (Supersedes 08-001, dated February 5, 2009, to revise the
information marked by the black bars and asterisks)
REVISION SUMMARY
*Under WARRANTY CLAIM IN FORMATION, the flat rate time for a four-wheel alignment was
updated after the operation was reviewed and validated.*
NOTE:
To ensure a proper repair and proper reimbursement, you must read this entire service bulletin
before doing any work.
SYMPTOM
The customer may complain of uneven or rapid rear tire wear, a roaring noise from the rear, or a
vibration at highway speeds.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The combination of the tires and the rear suspension geometry may cause rapid and uneven rear
tire wear. Tires in an advanced stage of this diagonal or inner edge wear may cause vibration
and/or a bad bearing type noise. (For more details, see TIRE INSPECTION AND
QUALIFICATION)
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Install a rear upper control arm kit, replace the flange bolts and the worn tires (see the Tire
Replacement Information chart), and do a four-wheel alignment to the new specification listed in
REPAIR PROCEDURE.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N 04523-SNA-A01, H/C 9113184 (Contains control arms and six flange bolts.)
You must use the same brand and size tire as OEM equipped. Replacement tires must be from
The Tire Rack.
For replacement tires, call the American Honda Tire Program through The Tire Rack at
877-327-8473.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear >
Page 6607
Tire Application Chart
Tire Replacement Information
Typical Claim:
American Honda will pay a prorated amount, as shown in the chart below, for replacement of tires
due to uneven or rapid rear tire wear, based on the tire's mileage.
NOTE:
You must calculate how much to charge the customer and how much to charge the warranty claim.
Customer receipts used for calculation of the mileage must be retained with the repair order. Get
the customer's permission before proceeding with this repair.
Customer Reimbursements:
Customers who had tires previously replaced due to wear, and whose vehicle is eligible for rear
upper control arm replacement (see DIAGNOSIS on page 4), may be eligible for reimbursement of
a prorated portion of their expense. Use the mileage on the customer's original tire replacement
receipt to calculate the prorated amount, and retain a copy of the receipt with the repair order. To
submit a warranty claim for customer reimbursement, follow the procedure in section 3.9.2 of the
Service Operations Manual, "Emergency Repairs Reimbursement Procedure."
^ The tires must have been properly maintained (correct inflation and balancing).
^ Tires must not show signs of abuse (such as from racing or other physical damage). Abused tires
are not covered by this service bulletin.
^ Tires must show signs of diagonal or inner edge wear. They must also fall within the abnormal
wear range, based on tread depth measured and mileage shown, on the Tire Replacement
Information chart.
The tire is no longer round. There are high and low spots on the tire, worn in a diagonal pattern
across the tread.
The tread on the inner edge of the tire is worn more than the tread on the outer edge.
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
^ List the prorated amount of the tire (the invoice price multiplied by the covered percentage) in the
first sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T3 (sublet tire purchase).
^ You are eligible for a reimbursement of $20 per tire for handling. This $20 handling fee should
cover any state-required recycling fees plus an additional profit margin. List this dollar amount in
the second sublet field on the warranty claim form. Use sublet code T4 (sublet tire purchase
handling reimbursement).
NOTE:
Claims made for tire replacement require three photographs of the tires, all attached to the repair
order. If these photos are not available upon request, or if they fail to meet the guidelines in this
service bulletin, the dealer will be debited the full claim amount.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear >
Page 6610
Photo # 1
Arrange the tires together, and take a photo showing the tread wear of all replaced tires and the
VIN, as shown in the example below. (If only two tires are replaced, photograph only those two
tires.)
Photo # 2
Set the camera to macro mode (close-up), and select the tire with the most tread wear. Measure
the tread depth of the tire at one of the grooves closest to the middle of the tire, and take a photo of
the gauge in the tire clearly showing the remaining tread depth. If the inner edge of the tire is bald
or flat-spotted, yet the tread in the center of the tire is good, make sure the photo clearly shows that
the tire is past its useable life.
Photo # 3
Select the tire with the most tread wear, and take a photo of the tread surface showing the tread
wear bars.
DIAGNOSIS
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear >
Page 6611
1. Make sure the vehicle's suspension is not modified, and that it has the correct tires and wheels
(or genuine Honda accessory wheels, tires, and
suspension). (For correct tire sizes, see the Tire Application Chart)
Yes - Go to step 2.
No - Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage,
driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
Yes - This vehicle already has the revised rear upper control arms. Disregard this service bulletin,
and continue with normal troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire
pressures, etc.).
No - Go to step 3.
No - The wear is not camber related. Disregard this service bulletin, and continue with normal
troubleshooting (accident damage, driving habits, alignment, tire pressures, etc.).
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ All Civic (except Hybrid): Refer to page 18-40 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Civic Hybrid: Refer to page 18-38 of the 2006-2009 Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword UPPER, then select Rear Upper Arm Removal/Installation from the list.
NOTE:
This procedure is not complete unless you replace the flange bolts.
2. Measure and record the tread depth of the tires on the repair order using a tread depth gauge.
Tread depth is measured at one of the grooves closest to
the middle of the tire, from the top of the tread blocks to the bottom of the groove (not to the wear
bars). If the inner edge of the tire is heavily flat- spotted or bald, use a value of 2/32" instead of the
actual tread depth to determine the prorated amount on the Tire Replacement Information chart on
page 2. (See the photos under WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION.)
^ If three or four tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install four new tires.
^ If one or two tires have abnormal wear, mount, balance, and install two new tires onto the rear of
the vehicle.
3. Set the tire pressures to the specifications on the driver's doorjamb (B-pillar) label.
4. Do a four-wheel alignment using the new rear camber specification listed below:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 08-001 > Jul > 09 > Tires - Rapid/Uneven Rear Tire Wear >
Page 6612
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Check for bent or
deformed wheels. 3. Set up the dial gauge as shown, and measure the axial runout by turning the
wheel.
4. Reset the dial gauge to the position shown, and measure the radial runout.
5. If the wheel runout is not within the specification, check the wheel bearing end play, and make
sure the mating surfaces on the brake disc or the
6. If the bearing end play is within the specification but the wheel runout is more than the service
limit, replace the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Testing and Inspection
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the
wheels. 3. Install suitable flat washers (A) and the wheel nuts. Tighten the nuts to the specified
torque to hold the brake disc or the brake drum securely
4. Attach the dial gauge. Place the dial gauge against the hub flange. 5. Measure the bearing end
play while by moving the brake disc or the brake drum inward and outward.
Knuckle/Hub/Wheel Bearing
^ Attachment, 62 x 68 mm 07746-0010500
^ Driver 07749-0010000
1. Raise the front of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2.
Remove the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the front wheel.
3. Remove the brake hose mounting bolt (A) from the damper.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts (B), then remove the caliper assembly (C) from
the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper
assembly or the brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the
undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose excessively.
5. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A) from the knuckle (B). Do not disconnect the wheel speed
sensor connector.
6. Raise the stake (A), then remove the spindle nut (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6622
7. Remove the brake disc. 8. Check the front hub for damage and cracks. 9. Remove the cotter pin
(A) from the tie-rod end ball joint, then remove the nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install the new cotter pin after tightening the nut, and bend its end as
shown.
10. Disconnect the tie-rod end ball joint from the knuckle using the ball joint remover. 11. Remove
the flange bolt and the self-locking nuts from the lower arm (A).
NOTE: During installation, install the new flange bolt and the new self-locking nuts. After lightly
tightening all three fasteners, tighten them to the specified torque in the following order; the nut on
the front (B), the nut on the rear (C), then the bolt (D).
12. Disconnect the lower ball joint (E) from the lower arm.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6623
13. Remove the damper pinch bolts (A) and the self-locking nuts (B) from the damper.
NOTE: During installation, install the new damper pinch bolts and the new self-locking nuts.
14. Remove the driveshaft outboard joint (C) from the knuckle (D) by tapping the driveshaft end (E)
with a soft face hammer while drawing the hub
NOTE: ^
Do not pull the driveshaft end outward. The inner driveshaft inboard joint may come apart.
^ During installation, apply grease to the mating surfaces of the wheel bearing and the driveshaft
outboard joint.
15. Remove the lock pin (A) from the lower ball joint, then remove the castle nut (B).
NOTE: During installation, install a lock pin as shown after tightening the new castle nut.
16. Disconnect the lower ball joint (C) from the knuckle using the ball joint thread protector and the
ball joint remover. 17. Install the knuckle/hub in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and the nuts, then raise the
suspension to load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot when connecting the knuckle.
^ Before connecting the lower ball joint to the knuckle, degrease the threaded section and the
tapered portion of the ball joint pin, the ball joint connecting hole, the threaded section and the
mating surfaces of the castle nut.
^ Torque the castle nut to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the
slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the castle nut by loosening it.
^ Before installing the spindle nut, apply a small amount of engine oil to the seating surface of the
nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft.
^ Before installing the brake disc, clean the mating surfaces of the front hub and the inside of the
brake disc.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the inside of the
wheel.
1. Separate the hub (A) from the knuckle (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool and a hydraulic press.
Hold the knuckle with the attachment (C) of the
hydraulic press or equivalent tool. Be careful not to deform the splash guard (D). Hold onto the hub
to keep it from falling when pressed clear.
2. Press the wheel bearing inner race (A) off of the hub (B) using the hub dis/assembly tool, a
commercially available bearing separator (C), and a
press.
3. Remove the splash guard (A) and the snap ring (B) from the knuckle (C).
4. Press the wheel bearing (A) out of the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, and a press.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6625
5. Wash the knuckle and the hub thoroughly in high flash point solvent before reassembly. 6. Press
a new wheel bearing (A) into the knuckle (B) using the old bearing (C), a steel plate (D), the
attachment, the support base and a press.
NOTE: ^
Install the wheel bearing with the wheel speed sensor magnetic encoder (E) (brown color), toward
the inside of the knuckle.
^ Remove any oil, grease, dust, metal debris, and other foreign material from the encoder surface.
^ Be careful not to damage the encoder surface when you insert the wheel bearing.
8. Install the splash guard (C), and tighten the screws (D) to the specified torque value. 9. Install
the hub (A) onto the knuckle (B) using the attachment, the driver, the support base, and a hydraulic
press. Be careful not to distort the
Knuckle/Hub Bearing
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove
the center cap (A), the wheel nuts (B) and the rear wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6628
3. Release the parking brake, and remove the brake drum. 4. Remove the hub bearing unit (A) and
the O-ring (B).
5. Check the hub bearing unit for damage and cracks. 6. Install the hub bearing unit in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
^ Before installing the brake drum, clean the mating surfaces of the hub bearing unit and the inside
of the brake drum.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
Knuckle Replacement
1. Remove the hub bearing unit. 2. Disconnect the brake line (A) from the wheel cylinder (B).
Remove the backing plate (C) with brake shoes assembly from the knuckle.
3. Remove the wheel speed sensor (A), and the brake hose mounting bracket (B) from the knuckle
(C). Do not disconnect the wheel speed sensor
connector.
NOTE: Apply multipurpose grease to the mating surfaces on the knuckle and the O-ring (D) during
reassembly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6629
4. Place a floor jack under the trailing arm to support it.
NOTE: Do not place the jack against the plate section of the lower arm. Be careful not to damage
any suspension components.
5. Remove the upper arm mounting bolt (A), and disconnect the upper arm (B) from the knuckle.
NOTE: Use the new upper arm mounting bolt during reassembly.
6. Remove the rear knuckle upper bracket (C). 7. Mark the cam positions of the adjusting bolt (A)
and the adjusting cam plate (B), then remove the self-locking nut (C), the adjusting cam plate, and
NOTE: Use the new self-locking nut and the new adjusting bolt during reassembly.
9. Install the knuckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Front Suspension > Page 6630
^ First install all the components, and lightly tighten the bolts and nuts, then raise the suspension to
load it with the vehicle's weight before fully tightening to the specified torque values.
^ Align the cam positions of the adjusting bolt and the adjusting cam plate with the marked
positions when tightening.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake drum and the inside of the
wheel.
^ Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the MAX (upper) level line, and bleed the normal brake
system (except the servo unit and power unit). Check for a leak at the brake hose/line joint, and
retighten it if necessary.
Spindle nut
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
........................... 181 N-m (18.5 kgf-m, 134 lbf-ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications
Wheel Fastener: Specifications
Wheel nuts
Torque .................................................................................................................................................
........................... 108 Nm (11.0 kgf-m, 79.6 lbf-ft)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Steering and Suspension > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6638
NOTICE: ^
Do not use a hammer or air or electric impact tools to remove and install the wheel bolts.
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the brake
disc or the brake drum: front, rear. 3. Separate the wheel bolt (A) from the hub (B) using the ball
joint remover (C), and keep the jaw (D) of ball joint remover vertical against the wheel
bolt.
NOTE: ^
If the angle of the remover against the wheel bolt is not square, readjust the ball joint remover by
turning the head (E) of the adjusting bolt (F).
^ Before installing the new wheel bolt, clean the mating surfaces on the bolt and the hub.
4. Insert the new wheel bolt (A) into the hub (B) while aligning the splined surfaces (C) on the hub
hole with the wheel bolt. Adjust the measurement
(D) with the washers (P/N 94101-12800 or equivalent) (E), then install a nut (P/N 90304-SC2-000
or equivalent) (F) hand-tight.
NOTE: ^
Degrease all around the wheel bolt and the threaded section of the nut.
^ Make sure the wheel bolt is installed vertically in relation to the hub disc surface.
^ Do not install the nut and the washers that have been used as tools on a vehicle.
5. Tighten the nut until the wheel bolt is drawn fully into the hub. Do not exceed the maximum
torque limit. Make sure there is no gap (G) between
NOTE: ^
If you cannot tighten the wheel nut to the specified torque value when installing the wheel, replace
the front hub or the rear hub bearing unit as an assembly.
^ Before installing the wheel, clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc or the brake drum and the
inside of the wheel.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Door, HVAC > Air Door Actuator / Motor, HVAC >
Component Information > Locations
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Locations
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Air Mix Control Motor Replacement
1. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the air mix
control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the air mix control motor from the heater
unit.
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly
engaged with the linkage. After installation, make
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Mode Control Motor Replacement
3. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the mode control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping
screws and the mode control motor from the heater
unit.
4. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly
engaged with the linkage. After installation, make
Air Door Actuator / Motor: Service and Repair Recirculation Control Motor Replacement
1. Remove the glove box and the passenger's kick panel. 2. Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from
the recirculation control motor (B). Remove the self-tapping screws and the recirculation control
motor
3. Install the motor in the reverse order of removal. Make sure the pin on the motor is properly
engaged with the linkage. After installation, make
Air Register: Service and Repair Side Defogger Vent Trim Removal/Installation
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Insert the trim tool into a gap between the side defogger vent trim (A) and the dashboard (B),
and release the hook(C).
2. Install the side defogger vent trim in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Register > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Side Defogger Vent Trim Removal/Installation > Page 6654
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. Remove the subdisplay visor. 2. Remove the screws securing the driver's outer vent (A), then
remove the driver's outer vent from the subdisplay visor (B).
2. Remove the screws securing the driver's center vent (A), then remove the driver's center vent
from the center panel (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Air Register > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Side Defogger Vent Trim Removal/Installation > Page 6655
3. Install the center vent in the reverse order of removal.
Passenger's Vent
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. While holding the glove box (A), release the glove box stops (B) on each side of the dashboard
by pushing them in, then let the glove box hang
down.
2. From inside the glove box opening, push on the side hooks (A) by hand to release them. Gently
pull out the side vent (B) to release the other hooks
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, then remove the outside air
temperature sensor (B) from the receiver/dryer desiccant bracket. Disconnect the 2P
1. When the engine is cool, drain engine coolant from the radiator. 2. Remove the air cleaner
housing assembly. 3. Disconnect the connector (A). Slide the hose clamps (B) back, then
disconnect the inlet heater hose (C) and the outlet heater hose (D). Remove the
NOTE: Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain into a clean drip pan.
Be sure not to let coolant spill on the auxiliary electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any coolant
spills, rinse it off immediately.
4. Remove the bolt, the upper bracket (A), bushings (B), and the auxiliary electric water pump (C).
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6677
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6678
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6680
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6681
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6682
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6683
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6684
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6685
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6686
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6687
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6691
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6693
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6694
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6695
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6696
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6697
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6698
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6699
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6700
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6701
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6702
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6703
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6704
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 6705
1. Remove the glove box. 2. Cut the plastic cross brace (A) in the glove box opening with diagonal
cutters in the area shown, and discard it.
4. Remove the wire harness clip (A), the self-tapping screws, and the passenger's heater duct (B).
5. Disconnect the connector (A) from the blower motor. Remove the wire harness clip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit Removal/Installation > Page 6708
6. Disconnect the connector (A) from the recirculation control motor. Remove the self-tapping
screws, the bolt, the mounting nuts, and the blower
unit (B).
7. Install the unit in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leakage.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Blower Unit Removal/Installation > Page 6709
- The recirculation control motor (A), blower motor (B) and the dust and pollen filter (C) can be
replaced without removing the blower unit.
- Before reassembly, make sure that the recirculation control linkage and door move smoothly
without binding.
- After reassembly, make sure the recirculation control motor runs smoothly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Blower Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Cabin Air Filter > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Open the glove box. Remove the glove box stop on each side, then let the glove box hang down.
2. Remove the dust and pollen filter assembly (A) from the evaporator.
3. Remove the filter (A) from the housing (B), and replace the filter.
4. Install the filter in the reverse order of removal. Make sure that there is no air leaking out of the
evaporator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Cabin Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component Information
> Locations
1. Remove the center panel, with navigation, without navigation. 2. Remove the self-tapping screw
and the humidity/in-car temperature sensor (A) from the center panel (B).
3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Cabin Ventilation Duct > Component Information > Service and
Repair
1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks (A), then remove the rear air outlet (B). Take care
not to scratch the body.
3. Install the air outlet by pushing on the hook portions until the hooks snap into place.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications
Compressor Clutch: Specifications
Clearance: ...........................................................................................................................................
............................. 0.35 - 0.65 mm (0.014 - 0.026 in.)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6731
Compressor Clutch: Testing and Inspection
1. Check the armature plate for discoloration, peeling, or other damage. If there is damage, replace
the clutch set. 2. Check the rotor pulley bearing play and drag by rotating the rotor pulley by hand.
Replace the clutch set with a new one if it is noisy or has
excessive play/drag.
3. Measure the clearance between the rotor pulley (A) and the armature plate (B) all the way
around. If the clearance is not within specified limits,
remove the armature plate and add or remove shims as needed to increase or decrease clearance.
NOTE: The shims are available in four thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, and 0.5 mm.
4. Measure the resistance between the A/C compressor clutch connector No. 2 and A/C
compressor of the field coil. If resistance is not within
5. Remove the bolt and holders (A), then disconnect 1P connectors (B). Check the thermal
protector for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6732
NOTE: The thermal protector will have no continuity above about 252 to 262 °F (122 to 128 °C).
When the temperature drops below about 241 to 219 °F (116 to 104 °C), the thermal protector will
have continuity.
6. Check the thermal fuse for continuity between the A/C compressor clutch connector No. 1
terminal and the 1P connector (A). If there is no
continuity, replace the field coil.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor HVAC > Compressor Clutch > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6733
Compressor Clutch: Service and Repair
A/C clutch holder, Robinair 10204 or Kent-Moore J37872, or Honda Tool and Equipment
KMT-J33939, commercially available
1. Remove the center nut while holding the armature plate (A) with a commercially available A/C
clutch holder (B).
2. Remove the armature plate (A) and shim(s) (B), taking care not to lose the shim(s). If the clutch
needs adjustment, increase or decrease the number
and thickness of shims as necessary, then reinstall the armature plate, and recheck its clearance.
NOTE: The shims are available in four thicknesses: 0.1 mm, 0.2 mm, 0.4 mm, and 0.5 mm.
3. If you are replacing the field coil, remove the snap ring (A) with snap ring pliers, then remove the
rotor pulley (B). Be careful not to damage the
coil (C). Be careful not to damage the field coil and A/C compressor.
5. Reassemble the clutch in the reverse order of disassembly, and note these items:
- Install the field coil with the wire side facing down, and align the boss on the field coil with the hole
in the A/C compressor.
- Clean the rotor pulley and A/C compressor sliding surfaces with contact cleaner or other
non-petroleum solvent.
- Install new snap rings, note the installation direction, and make sure they are fully seated in the
groove.
- Make sure that the rotor pulley turns smoothly after it's reassembled.
- Route and clamp the wires properly or they can be damaged by the rotor pulley.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations
When the PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from
being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Clutch Relay > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6741
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Compressor Motor Power Control Module > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Compressor Motor Power Control Module: Service and Repair
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precaution before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter. 3. Disconnect connectors (A) from the
A/C compressor driver.
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the front bumper.
3. Remove the bolts, then disconnect the discharge hose (A) from the A/C condenser.
4. Remove the bolt, then disconnect the receiver line (A) from the A/C condenser.
5. Remove the bolts and the A/C condenser upper mount brackets (A).
6. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, then remove the outside air temperature sensor (B) from the
receiver/dryer desiccant bracket. Disconnect the 2P
7. Remove the A/C condenser (A). Be careful not to damage the radiator and A/C condenser fins
when removing the A/C condenser.
8. Install the A/C condenser in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- If you're installing a new A/C condenser, add (POE) refrigerant oil (SANDEN SE-10Y). Using the
wrong refrigerant oil can be safety hazard.
- Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Immediately after using the oil, dispose of any remaining oil in the container, due to moisture
absorption and short shelf life.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts
the paint, wash it off immediately.
- Be careful not to damage the radiator or the A/C condenser fins when installing the A/C
condenser.
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Condenser Fan Motor Relay, HVAC > Component Information
> Locations > Page 6760
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Locations
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6770
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6771
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6773
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6774
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6775
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6776
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6777
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6778
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6779
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6780
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6784
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6786
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6787
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6788
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6789
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6790
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6791
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6792
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6793
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6794
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6795
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6796
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6797
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6798
1. Remove the center panel, with navigation, without navigation. 2. Remove the dials (A), the
self-tapping screws, and the climate control unit (B).
3. Install the control unit in the reverse order of removal. After installation, operate the various
functions to see whether works properly. 4. Run the self-diagnostic function to confirm that there
are no problems in the system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Control Assembly, HVAC > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Climate Control Unit Removal/Installation > Page 6801
Control Assembly: Service and Repair Climate Control Unit Bulb Replacement
1. Remove the climate control unit. 2. Discharge the static electricity (which accumulated on you
when you removed the climate control unit) by touching the door striker or other body
parts.
3. Remove the self-tapping screws, then carefully separate the climate control unit display (A) from
the control unit (B). Do not kink or pull on the
wires between the display and the control panel. Do not touch the electronic components on the
printed circuit board in the control panel.
3. Remove the nut, then disconnect the A/C lines (A) from the evaporator core.
5. Remove the blower unit. 6. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the evaporator temperature
sensor and the power transistor, then remove the connector clip (B). Remove the
self-tapping screws, the expansion valve cover (C), and the seal (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Evaporator Core > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 6805
7. Carefully pull out the evaporator core (A) without bending the lines, then remove the plate (B).
8. Remove the clips (A) and the evaporator temperature sensor (B).
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Repair > Page 6806
9. Install the core in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- If you're installing a new evaporator core, add (POE) refrigerant oil (SANDEN SE-10Y). Using the
wrong refrigerant oil can be a safety hazard.
- Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Immediately after using the oil, dispose of any remaining oil in the container, due to moisture
absorption and short shelf life.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts
the paint, wash it off immediately.
1. Remove the evaporator core. 2. Remove the bolts (A) and expansion valve (B).
3. Install the expansion valve in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- If you're installing a new expansion valve, add (POE) refrigerant oil (SANDEN SE-10Y). Using the
wrong refrigerant oil can be a safety hazard.
- Replace the O-rings with new ones at each fitting, and apply a thin coat of refrigerant oil before
installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
- Immediately after using the oil, dispose of any remaining oil in the container, due to moisture
absorption and short shelf life.
- Do not spill the refrigerant oil on the vehicle; it may damage the paint; if the refrigerant oil contacts
the paint, wash it off immediately.
2. From under the dash, disconnect the heater valve cable housing from the cable clamp (A), and
disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the air
3. With the heater valve cable detached at both ends, make sure the cable moves freely with no
binding. Replace the heater valve cable if it does not
move freely.
4. Set the temperature control dial to Max Cool (Lo) with the ignition switch to ON (II). 5. Attach the
heater valve cable (B) to the air mix control linkage (C) as shown step 2. Hold the end of the heater
valve cable housing against the stop
(D), then snap the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A).
NOTE: Make sure the ring-end of the cable is pushed all the way to the base of the pin on air mix
control linkage.
6. From under the hood, turn the heater valve arm (C) to the fully closed position as shown, and
hold it. Attach the heater valve cable (B) to the
heater valve arm, and gently pull on the heater valve cable housing to take up any slack, then
install the heater valve cable housing into the cable clamp (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Control Valve > Heater Control Valve Cable >
Component Information > Adjustments > Page 6820
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core Case > Component Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repair or servicing.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system, then
write down the audio presets. 2. Make sure the ignition is in LOCK (0), then disconnect the
negative cable from the battery. 3. Disconnect the A/C lines from the evaporator core. 4. Remove
the air cleaner housing assembly. 5. From under the hood, open the cable clamp (A), then
disconnect the heater valve cable (B) from the heater valve arm (C). Turn the heater valve
6. When the engine is cool, drain the engine coolant from the radiator. 7. Slide the hose clamps (A)
back. Remove the nut and the water valve (B), then disconnect the inlet heater hose (C) and the
outlet heater hose (D)
from the heater unit. Engine coolant will run out when the hoses are disconnected; drain it into a
clean drip pan. Be sure not to let coolant spill on the electrical parts or the painted surfaces. If any
coolant spills, rinse it off immediately.
8. Remove the mounting nut from the heater unit. Take care not to damage or bend the fuel lines or
brake lines, etc.
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Page 6825
9. Remove the dashboard.
10. Disconnect the connector (A) from the blower motor. Remove the wire harness clip (B).
11. Disconnect the connector (A) from the recirculation control motor.
12. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the mode control motor, the evaporator temperature
sensor, and the power transistor. Remove the wire harness
clip (B).
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Page 6826
13. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor, heater core temperature sensor,
and A/C wire harness. Remove the connector clip
(B), the wire harness clips (C), and the wire harness (D).
14. Remove the mounting bolt, mounting nuts, and blower-heater unit (A).
15. Remove the connector clip (A), the self-tapping screws, the heater core cover (B), the grommet
(C), and carefully pull out the heater core (D).
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Page 6827
16. Install the heater core, and the evaporator core in the reverse order of removal. 17. Install the
heater unit in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Do not interchange the inlet and outlet heater hoses, and install the hose clamps securely.
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system, then enter the audio
presets.
- If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it between
3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or neutral) until the BAT displays at least three
segments.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Heater Core Temperature Sensor / Switch > Component
Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 2. Remove the center console. 3. Remove the
accelerator pedal module. 4. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor and
heater core temperature sensor, then remove the harness clip (B) and the
connector clip (C). Remove the self-tapping screws and the heater core cover (D).
NOTE: If the A/C compressor relief valve released refrigerant to the atmosphere, determine and
correct the cause of the excessive system pressure, then replace the relief valve.
1. Recover the refrigerant with a recovery/recycling/charging station. 2. Remove the relief valve
cover (A), the relief valve (B), and the O-ring (C). Plug the opening to keep foreign matter from
entering the system and
3. Clean the mating surfaces. 4. Replace the O-ring with a new one, and apply a thin coat of
refrigerant oil before installing it. 5. Remove the plug, and install and tighten the relief valve. 6.
Charge the system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Humidity Sensor > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the center panel, with navigation, without navigation. 2. Remove the self-tapping screw
and the humidity/in-car temperature sensor (A) from the center panel (B).
3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Power Transistor HVAC > Component Information > Diagrams
NOTE: Install the receiver/dryer as quickly as possible to prevent the system from absorbing
moisture from the air.
1. Remove the A/C condenser. 2. Remove the bolts from the A/C condenser, then remove the
receiver/dryer (A), the bracket (B), and the O-rings (C).
3. Install the receiver/dryer in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Replace the O-rings with new ones, and apply a thin coat of only the recommended polyol ester
(POE) refrigerant oil (SANDEN SE-10Y) before installing them. Be sure to use the correct O-rings
for HFC-134a (R-134a) to avoid leakage.
07-030
(Supersedes 07-030, dated June 15, 2007, to update the information marked by asterisks)
The OPTIMAX Jr. (TM)A/C Leak Detection Kit for Honda vehicles, P/N TRP124893, is a new
required tool. The kit is used to add small amounts of dye to A/C systems to help locate smaller
leaks that an electronic leak detector might not find.
When searching for leaks, always begin by using an electronic leak detector. Refer to Service
Bulletin 97-027, Denso HLD-100 Halogen Leak Detector; for tips on using this tool, then follow up
with the OPTIMAX Jr.
This new detection kit complements but does not replace the electronic detector.
^ TRP8640CS, OPTIMAX Jr. (TM) cordless, fluorescent leak detection flashlight lamp (includes 3
standard AA batteries)
^ TRP38600601, (6) 0.06 oz. (1.7 g) Tracer-Stick(R) R134a/PAG A/C dye capsules with ID labels
ORDERING INFO
*One OPTIMAX Jr. A/C Leak Detection Kit was shipped to each current dealer as a required
special tool. Additional kits and replacement capsules may be ordered through the Honda Tool and
Equipment Program. On the iN, click on Service, Service Bay, Tool and Equipment Program,
Online Catalog tab, and Air Conditioning Equipment, or call.*
NOTICE
^ Do not use leak-trace dye in any Honda hybrid vehicle equipped with a dual-scroll compressor
This can increase the chance of electric shock. The compressor is easily identified by the orange
high-voltage cable that is connected to the compressor body.
^ Only Tracer-Stick single-dose fluorescent dye capsules from Tracer Products (Tracerline(R)) are
approved for use in Honda vehicles. Other dyes contain solvents that may contaminate the
system's refrigerant oil, leading to component failure.
^ Adding excessive amounts of dye can lead to compressor damage and failure.
^ Check for a label in the engine compartment indicating that fluorescent leak-detection dye has
been added to the system.
^ Dye may have been added even though no label is present. To confirm this:
- Put on the fluorescence-enhancing glasses, and remove the low-side service port sealing cap.
- Direct the ultraviolet lamp into the valve stem area. If dye has been previously added, the
lubricant traces will have a bright yellow fluorescent glow. You may need to press the port's valve
stem briefly to release some lubricant and dye from the system.
NOTE:
Air and moisture must be evacuated from the universal connect set if it is being used for the first
time, or if it has been stored with the control valve open. If the air and moisture have been
evacuated, go to step 3; otherwise do the following:
(a) Attach the empty dye capsule (provided in the dye kit) to the control valve fitting.
(b) Attach the service valve fitting (provided in the kit) to the empty dye capsule.
(c) Attach the low-side hose of the A/C recovery and charging station, and open the quick coupler's
hand-wheel valve. Then open the control valve (black knob) on the universal connect set.
(d) Following the manufacturer's instructions for your recovery and charging station, evacuate the
universal connect set for approximately 3 minutes.
(e) When evacuation is complete, be sure the set's control valve is closed (finger tight), and
disconnect the NC recovery and charging station.
(f) Remove the service valve fitting and the empty dye capsule from the set, and store them for
future use.
NOTE:
^ Check the refrigerant charge level. There must be enough refrigerant in the system to operate the
A/C compressor and to circulate refrigerant oil.
^ If the refrigerant charge is too low, recover the remaining amount and recharge the system before
adding any dye.
(g) Start the vehicle and operate the A/C system. Follow your A/C refrigerant recovery and
charging station's operating instructions for low-side charging to install the dye.
* NOTE:
Only 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant is needed to push the dye into the A/C system.*
(h) Once the refrigerant charge is programmed, open the control valve on the set to allow the dye
to enter the system.
(i) After the dye capsule clears, allow the low-side of the A/C system to reach its lowest operating
pressure, then quickly close both the service equipment's low-side coupler valve and the control
valve on the set.
(j) Remove the set from the vehicle by releasing its quick coupler. Remove the empty dye capsule
from the service valve fitting. Return the hose, control valve, and service-valve fitting to the storage
case.
* NOTE:
Store the hose with the control valve closed. This will retain a small amount of refrigerant in the
hose so it does not have to be evacuated the next time you use it.*
(k) Fill out an identification label (provided in the kit), and attach it to a location near the A/C charge
label.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 6858
3. Connect the universal connect set and the Tracer- Stick dye capsule:
(a) Be sure the quick coupler and control valves on the set are closed.
(b) Remove the low-side service port sealing cap, and connect the set to the low-side service port
using the quick coupler.
(c) Hold a new dye capsule so that the embossed arrow is pointing up. Remove the black end cap,
and carefully attach the capsule to the control valve fitting.
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing up or the dye will leak out of the
capsule.
(d) Turn the capsule so the embossed arrow is pointing down. Remove the orange end cap, and
carefully attach the service valve fitting provided in the kit (finger tight).
NOTE:
The capsule must be held with the embossed arrow pointing down or the dye will leak out.
NOTE:
* ^ If you have recovered refrigerant to weigh it as part of your diagnostics, or if there is a low
charge, it is more efficient to recharge the system using normal procedures before installing the
universal connect set. Dye can then be added using approximately 0.05 lb (0.02 kg) of refrigerant.*
^ You do not need to connect the service equipment's high-side hose to the vehicle to install the
dye. If the high-side hose is connected, make sure its coupler valve is closed before proceeding.
^ Do not use the A/C recovery and charging station to recover or evacuate the A/C system when a
full dye capsule is attached. The dye will be drawn into the service equipment instead of being
added to the vehicle's A/C system.
(a) Run the A/C system for at least 15 minutes to circulate the dye through the system. Large leaks
will be seen immediately as a fluorescent yellow glow. Smaller leaks may require at least 24 hours
of vehicle operation before they become visible. Operate the A/C system as much as possible
during this time to keep the dye circulating.
(b) Stop the vehicle's engine and inspect the system for leaks using the ultraviolet (UV) lamp and
fluorescence-enhancing glasses from the kit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - Refrigerant Leak Detection > Page 6859
Low ambient light conditions (a dark work area) will aid in locating the leak.
NOTE:
Not all UV lamps work well with all types of fluorescent dye. Use only the lamp provided in the kit to
inspect for leaks.
^ fittings
^ hose-to-line couplings
^ refrigerant controls
^ service ports
(d) Check for evaporator leaks by illuminating the evaporator drain tube area with the UV lamp and
glasses.
(e) After repairing a leak, remove any fluorescent residue using the GLO-AWAY dye cleaner from
the kit and hot water (follow the instructions on the bottle).
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Capacity:
Evaporator ...........................................................................................................................................
..................................................... 40 mL (1 1/3 fl-oz) Line or hose .....................................................
............................................................................................................................................ 10 mL
(1/3 fl-oz) Receiver/Dryer Desiccant ....................................................................................................
........................................................................ 10 mL (1/3 fl-oz) Leakage repair ................................
.............................................................................................................................................................
25 mL (5/6 fl-oz) A/C compressor For A/C compressor replacement, subtract the volume of oil
drained from the removed A/C compressor from 130 mL (4 2/5 fl.oz), and drain the calculated
volume of oil from the new A/C compressor: 130 mL (4 2/5 fl.oz) - Volume of removed A/C
compressor = Volume to drain from new A/C compressor.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 6867
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
The A/C compressor in this vehicle is powered by the IMA battery module, and this oil is required
because it has unique electrical insulting qualities.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor / Switch, HVAC > Component
Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
When the PCM receives a demand for cooling from the A/C system, it delays the compressor from
being energized, and enriches the mixture to assure smooth transition to the A/C mode.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 6891
Compressor Clutch Relay: Testing and Inspection
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay,
HVAC > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Normally-open type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 4, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when power is
disconnected.
Five-terminal type
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Condenser Fan Motor Relay,
HVAC > Component Information > Locations > Page 6898
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Motor Power
Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair
Compressor Motor Power Control Module: Service and Repair
IMA components are located in this area. The IMA is a high-voltage system. You must be familiar
with the IMA system before working on or around it. Make sure you have read the IMA service
precaution before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the IPU lid. 2. Disconnect the DC-DC converter. 3. Disconnect connectors (A) from the
A/C compressor driver.
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Lift the tab (A) to release the lock, then remove the outside air
temperature sensor (B) from the receiver/dryer desiccant bracket. Disconnect the 2P
1. Remove the center panel, with navigation, without navigation. 2. Remove the self-tapping screw
and the humidity/in-car temperature sensor (A) from the center panel (B).
3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Evaporator Temperature
Sensor / Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 2. Remove the center console. 3. Remove the
accelerator pedal module. 4. Disconnect the connectors (A) from the air mix control motor and
heater core temperature sensor, then remove the harness clip (B) and the
connector clip (C). Remove the self-tapping screws and the heater core cover (D).
1. Remove the center panel, with navigation, without navigation. 2. Remove the self-tapping screw
and the humidity/in-car temperature sensor (A) from the center panel (B).
3. Install the sensor in the reverse order of removal. Be sure to connect the air hose securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Heating and Air Conditioning > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the gauge control module (SPEEDO). 2. Remove the sunlight sensor (A) from the
dashboard with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect the connector (B). Be careful not to damage
the
1. Remove the gauge control module (SPEEDO). 2. Remove the sunlight sensor (A) from the
dashboard with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect the connector (B). Be careful not to damage
the
2. Replace the thermal protector (A) with a new one, and apply silicone sealant (B) to the bottom of
the thermal protector.
NOTE: Before doing any SRS repairs, use the HDS SRS menu method to check for DTCs; refer to
the DTC Troubleshooting Index for the less obvious deployed parts (seat belt tensioners, front
impact sensors, side airbag sensors, etc.)
After a collision where the seat belt tensioners deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
After a collision where the front airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
- Deployed airbag(s)
After a collision where the side airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
After a collision where the side curtain airbag(s) deployed, replace these items:
- SRS unit
- Roof trim
- A-pillar trim
- B-pillar lower trim
- C-pillar trim
- Sunvisor
After a moderate to severe side or rear collision, inspect for any damage on the side curtain airbag
or other related components. According to the degree of damage, replace components as needed.
After a collision, where a side curtain airbag has deployed, replace all trim clips on that side, even if
they appear to be undamaged. Replace the clips on these parts:
- A-pillar trim
- B-pillar trim
- C-pillar trim
- Sunvisor
- Inspect all the SRS wire harnesses. Replace, do not repair, any damaged harnesses.
- Inspect the cable reel for heat damage. If there is any damage, replace the cable reel.
After the vehicle is completely repaired, turn the ignition switch ON (II). If the SRS indicator comes
on for about 6 seconds and then goes off, the SRS is OK. If the indicator does not function
properly, use the HDS SRS Menu Method to read the DTC. If you cannot retrieve a code, go to
SRS Symptom Troubleshooting.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before servicing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when doing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) or the
battery cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you
have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write
down the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock (without navigation).
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6962
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C).
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
these things: -
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for
3 minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the
connectors from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned to LOCK (0).
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection after Deployment. See: Service and
Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy, inspect for any damage or any
deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. If
there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6964
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- Do not use any silicone based cleaners or lubricants on any SRS connectors or terminals.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6965
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6966
Opening the SRS Unit Shorting Connectors for Diagnosis
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electrical contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6967
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid. Do not spray
steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait
for 3 minutes before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6968
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6969
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the
seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 6970
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B
(28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Diagrams
Air Bag: Diagrams
Before scrapping any airbags, side airbags, side curtain airbags, seat belt tensioners, or seat belt
buckle tensioner (including those in a whole vehicle to be scrapped), the part(s) must be deployed.
If the vehicle is still within the warranty period, the Honda District Parts and Service Manager must
give approval and/or special instructions before deploying the part(s). Only after the part(s) have
been deployed (as the result of vehicle collision, for example), can they be scrapped. If the parts
appear intact (not deployed), treat them with extreme caution. Follow this procedure.
If an SRS equipped vehicle is to be entirely scrapped, its airbags, side airbags, side curtain
airbags, seat belt tensioners, and seat belt buckle tensioner should be deployed while still in the
vehicle. These parts should not be considered as salvageable parts and should never be installed
in another vehicle.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), then disconnect the battery negative cable, then wait for 3
minutes before starting work. 2. Confirm that each airbag, side airbag, side curtain airbag, seat belt
tensioner, or seat belt buckle tensioner is securely mounted. 3. Confirm that the deployment tool is
functioning properly by following the check procedure on the tool label.
Driver's Airbag
4. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
5. Remove the glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from the
dashboard wire harness.
Side Airbag
6. Disconnect the side airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6978
Side Curtain Airbag
7. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side curtain airbag.
8. Disconnect the floor wire harness 4P connector (A) from the seat belt tensioner. Pull the seat
belt out all the way and cut it.
9. Disconnect the floor wire harness tensioner 4P connector (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6979
10. Cut off each connector, and strip the ends of the wires. Twist each pair of unlike colored wires
together, and clip an alligator clips (A) from the
deployment tool to each pair. Place the deployment tool at least 30 feet (10 meter) away from the
vehicle.
NOTE: The drivers and front passenger's airbags have dual inflators. Twist each pair of unlike
colored wires together, and clip an alligator clip to each pair.
11. Connect a 12 volt battery to the tool.
- If the green light on the tool comes on, the igniter circuit is defective and cannot deploy the
component. Go to Disposal of Damaged Components.
- If the red light on the tool comes on, the component is ready to be deployed.
12. Push the tool's deployment switch. The airbags and tensioners should deploy (deployment is
both highly audible and visible: A loud noise and
If the components deploy and the green light on the tool comes on, continue with this procedure.
- If a component does not deploy, and the green light comes ON, its igniter is defective. Go to
Disposal of Damaged Components.
- During deployment, the airbags can become hot enough to burn you. Wait 30 minutes after
deployment before touching the airbags.
13. Dispose of the complete airbag. No part of it can be reused. Place it in a sturdy plastic bag (A),
and seal it securely. Dispose of the deployed airbag
If an intact airbag or tensioner has been removed from a scrapped vehicle, or has been found
defective or damaged during transit, storage, or service, it should be deployed as follows:
1. Confirm that the deployment tool is functioning properly by following the check procedure
Deploying Airbags in the Vehicle on the tool label. 2. Position the airbag face up, outdoors, on flat
ground, at least 30 feet (10 meters) from any obstacles or people. 3. Follow steps 9 through 12 of
the in-vehicle deployment procedure.
NOTE: The driver's and front passenger's airbags have dual inflators. Twist each pair of unlike
colored wires together, and clip an alligator clip to each pair.
1. If installed in a vehicle, follow the removal procedure for the driver's airbag, front passenger's
airbag, side airbag, side curtain airbag, seat belt
2. In all cases, make a short circuit by cutting, stripping, and twisting together the two inflator wires.
NOTE: The driver's and front passenger's airbags have dual inflators. the like color wires go to the
individual inflators.
3. Package the component in exactly the same packaging that the new replacement part came in.
4. Mark the outside of the box "DAMAGED AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED," "DAMAGED SIDE
AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED," "DAMAGED SIDE
CURTAIN AIRBAG NOT DEPLOYED," "DAMAGED SEAT BELT TENSIONER NOT DEPLOYED"
so it does not get confused with your parts stock.
5. Contact your Honda District Parts and Service Manager for instructions on how and where to
return it for disposal.
1. Connect the yellow clips to both switch protector handles on the tool. 2. Then connect the red
lead to the positive battery post and the black lead to the negative battery post. 3. Push the
operation switch: The green light should come on, indicating that the tool is operating properly and
is ready for use. If the red light stays
on, the tool is faulty, and another one must be used for the procedure.
4. Disconnect the tool clips and connectors from the protector handles and the battery.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6981
Air Bag: Removal and Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the two TORX bolts (A) and discard them.
4. Disconnect the horn switch connector (1P), then remove the driver's airbag (B).
Installation
1. Connect the horn switch connector (1P) (A) to the driver's airbag.
2. Place the driver's airbag (B) in the steering wheel, and secure it with new TORX bolts (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6982
3. Connect the cable reel 4P connector (A) to the driver's airbag 4P connector, then install the
access panel (B) on the steering wheel.
4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5. Connect the HDS, and clear the DTC. 6. After
installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation:
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and
then go off.
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the glove box. 3. Disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) from the
dashboard wire harness.
- With navigation
- Without navigation
5. Remove the three mounting nuts (A) from the bracket. Cover the front passenger's lid and
dashboard with a cloth, and pry carefully with a
screwdriver to lift the front passenger's airbag assembly (B) out of the dashboard.
If you are replacing a deployed front passenger's airbag, replace the airbag and new lid as a set.
NOTE: The front passenger's lid has pawls (C) on each side which attach it to the dashboard.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6983
6. Cut the four parts (A) of the front passenger's lid (B) as shown, and remove the front
passenger's airbag.
NOTE: -
Always replace the front passenger's lid whenever you remove the front passenger's airbag from
the lid.
- Replace the front passenger's airbag if the airbag mounting hooks or its housing is damaged.
7. Insert the hooks (A) of the front passenger's airbag housing into the new passenger's lid, then
insert the other hooks (B) into the lid.
NOTE: -
Make sure there are no objects between the airbag and the front passenger's lid.
- Make sure the airbag is fully seated, and make sure the front passenger's lid is not deformed or
damaged after the airbag is in place.
- Do not use tools when detaching the front passenger's airbag in order to protect it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6984
Installation
1. Place the front passenger's airbag assembly (A) into the dashboard. Tighten the front
passenger's airbag mounting nuts (B).
2. Connect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A) to dashboard wire harness, then reinstall
the glove box and center panel.
3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Connect the HDS, and clear the DTC. 5. After
installing the airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on for about 6
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front seat assembly and seat-back cover. 3. Remove the mounting screws (A) and the
side airbag (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6985
Installation
NOTE:
- Use new mounting screws tightened to the specified torque. When you replace a side airbag,
make sure that the seat-back cover is installed properly. Improper installation may prevent proper
deployment.
- Be sure to install the harness wires so that they are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Place the side airbag on the seat-back frame (A). Install new side airbag mounting screws (B).
2. Install the seat-back cover. 3. Install the front seat assembly, then connect the side airbag
harness 2P connector. 4. Move the front seat and the seat-back through their full ranges of
movement, making sure the harness wires are not pinched or interfering with
other parts.
5. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 6. Connect the HDS, and clear the DTC. 7. After
installing the side airbag, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the
SRS indicator should come on for about
Removal
NOTE:
- Review the interior trim replacement procedure before doing repair or service.
- Removal of the side curtain airbag must be done according to the Precautions and Procedures.
- The side curtain airbag system consists of the side curtain airbag module, including the roof trim,
front grab handle, all grab handle brackets and shielding protector. After the side curtain airbag has
been deployed, replace these parts.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the headliner. 3. Disconnect the side curtain airbag 2P connector (A) from the floor wire
harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6986
NOTE:
- Installation of the side curtain airbag must be done according the Precautions and Procedures.
- If the airbag is frayed, or has any other visible damage, replace it. Do not attempt to repair an
airbag.
- When you install the airbag, make sure it is not twisted, and that it is not caught between the
inflator bracket by the bracket bolts.
- Make sure that the side curtain airbag inflator retainer is installed properly. Otherwise the airbag
could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injuries.
1. Place the side curtain airbag assembly on the side of the roof. Tighten the side curtain airbag
mounting bolts (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Procedures > Page 6988
2. Connect the side curtain airbag 2P connector (A) to the floor wire harness.
Removal
NOTE: If you are only disconnecting SRS unit connector A, skip step 2.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and the seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Remove the center console. 4. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P), connector B (28P), and
remove the TORX bolts (C), then pull out the SRS unit.
Installation
1. Install the SRS unit (A) with new TORX bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS
unit; push them into position until they click.
NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against its bracket before torquing the TORX bolt.
2. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and the seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Calibrate the ODS unit. 5. Do the ODS unit
operation check. 6. Confirm proper SRS system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the
SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. 7. Reinstall all removed parts.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Air Bag Control Module > Component Information >
Service and Repair > SRS Unit Replacement > Page 7001
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair ODS Unit Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the passenger's side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the passenger's seat assembly
and seat-back cover. 4. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector (A) and sensor connectors (B)
from the ODS unit (C).
Installation
1. Place the ODS unit (A) on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two nuts (B), and connect the ODS
unit harness 18P connector (C) and sensor
2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then
connect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5.
Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's
seat. 6. Initialize the ODS unit. 7. After installing the ODS unit, confirm proper system operation:
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
- With navigation
- Without navigation
2. Remove the screws (A) and the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator (B) from the center panel.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the indicator. If there is no
continuity, replace the bulb. 4. Reinstall the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Diagrams
230. Cable Reel
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7009
Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable: Service and Repair
Removal
1. Make sure the front wheels are aligned straight ahead. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the
battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Remove the driver's airbag. 4. Disconnect
the connector (A) from the cable reel, then remove the steering wheel bolt (B).
5. Confirm that the front wheels point straight ahead, then remove the steering wheel with a
steering wheel puller. Do not tap on the steering wheel or
6. Remove the driver's undercover. 7. Remove the column cover screws (A), then remove the
column covers (B, C).
8. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness 4P connector (A) from the cable reel 4P connector (B),
then disconnect the dashboard wire harness 20P
the lock tab. Release the lower lock tab (C), and slide the cable reel off the column.
Installation
1. Before installing the steering wheel, align the front wheels straight ahead. 2. If not already done,
disconnect the battery negative cable, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Set the turn
signal canceling sleeve (A) so that the projections (B) are aligned vertically.
4. Carefully install the cable reel (A) on the steering column shaft. Then connect the dashboard
wire harness 20P connector (B) to the cable reel, and
connect the 4P connector (C) to the dashboard wire harness 4P connector (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7011
5. Install the steering column covers. 6. If necessary, center the cable reel (new replacement cable
reels come centered). Do this by first rotating the cable reel clockwise until it stops.
Then rotate it counterclockwise (about three turns) until the arrow mark (A) on the cable reel label
points straight up.
7. Position the two tabs (A) of the turn signal canceling sleeve (B) as shown, and install the
steering wheel on to the steering column shaft, making
sure the steering wheel hub (C) engages the pins (D) of the cable reel and tabs of the turn signal
canceling sleeve. Do not tap on the steering wheel or steering column shaft when installing the
steering wheel.
8. Install a new steering wheel bolt (A), then reconnect the connectors.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Clockspring Assembly / Spiral Cable, Air Bag >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7012
10. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 11. After installing the cable reel, confirm proper
system operation:
- Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and
then go off.
- After the SRS indicator has turned off, turn the steering wheel fully left and right to confirm the
SRS indicator does not come on.
- Make sure the horn and turn signal switches work properly.
- Make sure the steering wheel audio controls (if equipped) work.
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the front seat assembly. 4.
Remove the front door sill inner trim. 5. Remove the lower B-pillar lower trim panel. 6. Disconnect
the floor wire harness 4P connector from the side impact sensor (first). 7. Using a TORX T30 bit,
remove the TORX bolt (A), then remove the side impact sensor (first) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (first) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the floor wire
harness 4P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(first).
2. Reinstall all removed parts. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. After installing the
side impact sensor (first) confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the
SRS indicator should come
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side curtain airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the rear seat and seat
side bolster. 4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor
(second). 5. Remove the TORX bolt (A) using a TORX T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor
(second) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (second) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect floor wire
harness 2P connector (6) to the side impact sensor
(second).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the side impact sensor (second),
confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat
belt tensioners 4P connectors, and seat belt buckle
tensioner 4P connector.
3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P
connector (A). Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the front
Installation
1. Install the front impact sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the engine compartment
wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact
sensor (C).
2. Reconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the passenger's airbag 4P connector, and both seat
belt tensioner 4P connectors. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. After installing the
front impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both side curtain airbag 2P connectors. 3. Remove the rear seat. 4. Disconnect the
floor wire harness 4P connector from the rear safing sensor. 5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the
TORX bolt (A), then remove the rear safing sensor (B).
Installation
1. Install the rear safing sensor (A) with a new TORX bolt (B) then connect the floor wire harness
4P connector (C) to the rear safing sensor.
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
rear safing sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on for
08-041
June 7, 2008
ODS Unit Initialization, ODS Unit Calibration, and Seat Weight Sensor Output Check With Manual
Mode
BACKGROUND
The 2006 2008 Civic Service Manual shows procedures for the occupant detection system (ODS)
unit initialization, the ODS unit calibration, and the front passenger's seat weight sensor output
check after a vehicle collision These procedures are normally done by following the on-screen
instructions on the HDS Due to some software variations between the SRS unit and the ODS unit
in some vehicles, when doing one of these procedures, the HDS may indicate to do the procedure
with manual mode However these manual mode procedures are not in the service manual In these
cases, follow the procedures in this bulletin to do the ODS unit initialization, the ODS unit
calibration or the front passenger's seat weight sensor output check with manual mode
NOTE
Even though these procedures are done manually, an HDS is still required.
^ Front Passengers Seat Weight Sensors Output Check After a Vehicle Collision With Manual
Mode
TOOL INFORMATION
NOTE:
Initialize the ODS unit after replacing the seat back cover, the seat back cushion, and/or the ODS
unit.
NOTE:
A new (uninitialized) ODS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 85-71. If you
read this DTC, continue with this procedure.
2. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat back to a
normal upright position Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
flashes no.
8. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is initialized. Go to ODS UNIT
CALIBRATION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is initialized, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru
13. If after three attempts you cannot initialize the ODS unit, refer to symptom troubleshooting in
the service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Occupant Detection System Initialization > Page 7035
17. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (0). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
Always calibrate the ODS unit after replacing any of the front passenger's seat components (except
the ODS unit or the seat weight sensors), after a vehicle collision, or after replacing the SRS unit.
2. Adjust the front passengers seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to the
forward-most position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
4. If not already connected, connect the HDS to the DLC, then turn on the HDS (but do not turn the
ignition switch to ON (II).
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
display flashes no.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, buckle the driver's seat belt.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is calibrated. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then go to FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR OUTPUT
CHECK AFTER A VEHICLE COLLISION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is calibrated, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not calibrated. Repeat steps 8 thru
13. If after three attempts the ODS unit does not calibrate, refer to symptom troubleshooting in the
service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
^ Always check the front passenger's seat weight sensor output after replacing any of the front
passenger's seat components, except the ODS unit, and after a vehicle collision.
1. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to a
normal upright position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait for the passenger airbag OFF indicator to go off.
^ 2-door: 64 pounds. (A case of Honda coolant and a 1 gallon jug of VTM-4 fluid is 64 pounds.)
4. For 2-door models: Firmly tap on the headrest twice to release any stiction that may be present
in the seat weight sensors.
5. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should come on and stay on. If the
indicator does not come on, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them.
8. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should go off.
^ If the indicator goes off, the front passenger's weight sensors are OK.
^ If the indicator does not go off, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them, then repeat steps 1
thru 8.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7037
Seat Occupant Sensor: Locations
Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the seat
cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX E18 socket, remove the TORX nuts (A) attaching the seat track
(B) to the front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the seat weight sensors (E), then remove the front
passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Install the new front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four front passenger's weight
sensors under the seat track. 2. Apply multipurpose grease to the spring washer and bushing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Air Bag Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7042
3. Insert a 3.5 mm center punch into the hole in the cushion frame to position the spring washers,
when tighten the TORX nuts (A). Begin with (1),
6. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 7. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 8. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 9. Calibrate the ODS unit.
10. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator
Removal
NOTE:
- Removal of the driver's seat position sensor must be done according Precautions and
Procedures.
- Do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while removing the
driver's seat position sensor.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector. 3. Remove the driver's seat assembly. 4. Disconnect
the seat position sensor harness 2P connector (A) from the driver's seat position sensor.
5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the driver's seat position sensor.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness so it does not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while installing the
driver's seat position sensor.
- After installing the driver's seat position sensor, make sure it is clean. Keep it away from dust.
1. Install the new driver's seat position sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the seat
position sensor harness 2P connector to the driver's
2. Install the driver's seat assembly. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Check the
operation of the driver's seat position sensor with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations
Removal
NOTE: If you are only disconnecting SRS unit connector A, skip step 2.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and the seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Remove the center console. 4. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P), connector B (28P), and
remove the TORX bolts (C), then pull out the SRS unit.
Installation
1. Install the SRS unit (A) with new TORX bolts (B), then connect the connectors (C) to the SRS
unit; push them into position until they click.
NOTE: Be sure the SRS unit is sitting squarely against its bracket before torquing the TORX bolt.
2. Reconnect both seat belt tensioner connectors and the seat belt buckle tensioner connector. 3.
Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Calibrate the ODS unit. 5. Do the ODS unit
operation check. 6. Confirm proper SRS system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the
SRS indicator should come on for about 6 seconds and then go off. 7. Reinstall all removed parts.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > SRS Unit Replacement > Page 7060
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair ODS Unit Replacement
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the passenger's side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the passenger's seat assembly
and seat-back cover. 4. Disconnect the ODS unit 18P connector (A) and sensor connectors (B)
from the ODS unit (C).
Installation
1. Place the ODS unit (A) on the seat-back frame. Tighten the two nuts (B), and connect the ODS
unit harness 18P connector (C) and sensor
2. Install the seat-back cover in the reverse order of removal. 3. Install the seat assembly, then
connect the side airbag harness 2P connector. 4. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 5.
Set the seat-back in the normal position, and make sure there is nothing on the front passenger's
seat. 6. Initialize the ODS unit. 7. After installing the ODS unit, confirm proper system operation:
Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should come on for about 6
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before servicing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when doing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) or the
battery cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you
have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write
down the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock (without navigation).
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7065
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C).
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
these things: -
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for
3 minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the
connectors from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned to LOCK (0).
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection after Deployment. See: Air Bag
Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy, inspect for any
damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
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- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- Do not use any silicone based cleaners or lubricants on any SRS connectors or terminals.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
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Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Opening the SRS Unit Shorting Connectors for Diagnosis
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electrical contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
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Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid. Do not spray
steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait
for 3 minutes before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
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1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
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Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the
seat belt tensioners.
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Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B
(28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Testing and
Inspection
Seat Belt: Testing and Inspection
Inspection
Out of Vehicle
For a front seat belt retractor with seat belt tensioner, review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
Retractor
1. Before installing the retractor, check that the seat belt can be pulled out freely. 2. Make sure that
the seat belt does not lock when the retractor (A) is leaned slowly up to 15° from the mounted
position. The seat belt should lock
when the retractor is leaned over 40°. Do not attempt to disassemble the retractor.
3. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any
part of the seat belt for any reason.
In-vehicle
1. Check that the seat belt is not twisted or caught on anything. 2. After installing the anchors,
check for free movement on the anchor bolts. If necessary, remove the anchor bolts and check that
the washers and
3. Check the seat belts for damage or discoloration. Clean with a shop towel if necessary. Use only
soap and water to clean.
NOTE: Dirt build-up in the loops of the upper anchors can cause the seat belts to retract slowly.
Wipe the inside of the loops with a clean cloth dampened in isopropyl alcohol.
4. Check that the seat belt does not lock when pulled out slowly. The seat belt is designed to lock
only during a sudden stop or impact. 5. Make sure that the seat belt will retract automatically when
released.
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6. For front passenger's seat belt and all rear seat belts, check the seat belt retractor locking
mechanism ALR (automatic locking retractor). This
1. Pull the seat belt all the way out to engage the ALR. The seat belt should retract with a
ratcheting sound, but not extend. This is normal. 2. To disengage the ALR, release the seat belt
and allow it to fully retract, then pull the seat belt out part-way. The seat belt should retract and
extend normally.
7. Replace the seat belt with a new assembly if there is any abnormality. Do not disassemble any
part of the seat belt for any reason.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement
Seat Belt: Service and Repair Front Seat Belt Replacement
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE: Check the front seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Slide the front seat forward fully, and remove the
anchor cover (A).
5. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. 6. Remove the B-pillar upper trim and slider. 7. Remove the
upper anchor bolt (A).
8. Disconnect the seat belt tensioner connector (A). Remove the upper retractor mounting bolt (B)
and the lower retractor bolt (C), then remove the
11. Install the seat belt in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation.
- Tighten the bolts by hand first, then tighten to the specified torque.
- Assemble the washer and bushing on the upper anchor bolt as shown.
- If the seat belt tensioner has been deployed, replace the front seat belt protector with a new one.
- Before installing the anchor bolts, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt.
- If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it between
3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or Neutral) until the BAT displays at least three
segments.
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets.
- Check for any DTCs that may have been set during repairs, and clear them.
5. Remove the center anchor bolt (A), then remove the seat belt buckle (B) from the elastic band
(C).
6. Pull the seat belt switch harness (D) out through the space between the seat cushion and the
seat track (driver's seat), or through the hole in the seat
7. Install the buckle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolt before reinstallation.
- Tighten the bolts by hand first, then tighten to specification with a torque wrench.
- Make sure the seat belt switch connector and seat belt buckle tensioner connector are plugged in
properly.
- If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it between
3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or Neutral) until the BAT displays at least three
segments.
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets.
- Check for any DTCs that may have been set during repairs, and clear them.
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Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7083
NOTE: Check the rear seat belts for damage, and replace them if necessary. Be careful not to
damage them during removal and installation.
1. Remove the rear seat cushion. 2. Remove the lower anchor bolt (A).
- Rear shelf
4. Remove the retractor bolt (A), then remove the rear seat belt (B) and retractor (C).
5. Install the rear seat belt and retractor in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the anchor bolts before reinstallation.
- Before installing the anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the rear seat belt.
1. Remove the rear seat cushion. 2. Remove the center anchor bolts (A), then remove the.right
seat belt buckle (B), center seat belt buckle (C), and left seat belt buckle (D).
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3. Remove these items:
- C-pillar trim
- Rear shelf
4. Remove the retractor mounting ET screw (A) and the retractor bolt (B), then remove the rear
seat belt (C) and retractor (D).
5. Remove the rear center seat belt protector (E). 6. Install the seat belt and buckles in the reverse
order of removal, and note these items:
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the center anchor bolts before reinstallation.
- Tighten the bolts by hand first, then tighten to the specified torque.
- Before installing the center anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the center belt.
- Make sure the rear center ELR (emergency locking retractor) is pointing straight forward.
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Repair > Front Seat Belt Replacement > Page 7085
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
Reminder Systems Component Location Index
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Buckle Switch > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 7090
Seat Belt Buckle Switch: Connector Locations
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7100
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7101
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7103
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How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7105
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7106
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7112
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7113
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7114
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7115
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7116
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7117
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7118
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7119
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7120
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7123
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Seat Belt Systems > Seat Belt Tensioner > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7124
Seat Belt Tensioner: Connector Views
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the front seat assembly. 4.
Remove the front door sill inner trim. 5. Remove the lower B-pillar lower trim panel. 6. Disconnect
the floor wire harness 4P connector from the side impact sensor (first). 7. Using a TORX T30 bit,
remove the TORX bolt (A), then remove the side impact sensor (first) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (first) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the floor wire
harness 4P connector (B) to the side impact sensor
(first).
2. Reinstall all removed parts. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. After installing the
side impact sensor (first) confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the
SRS indicator should come
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the appropriate side curtain airbag 2P connector. 3. Remove the rear seat and seat
side bolster. 4. Disconnect the floor wire harness 2P connector from the side impact sensor
(second). 5. Remove the TORX bolt (A) using a TORX T30 bit, then remove the side impact sensor
(second) (B).
Installation
1. Install the side impact sensor (second) with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect floor wire
harness 2P connector (6) to the side impact sensor
(second).
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. After installing the side impact sensor (second),
confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator should
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the front passenger's airbag 4P connector, both seat
belt tensioners 4P connectors, and seat belt buckle
tensioner 4P connector.
3. Remove the front inner fender. 4. Disconnect the engine compartment wire harness 2P
connector (A). Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the front
Installation
1. Install the front impact sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the engine compartment
wire harness 2P connector (B) to the front impact
sensor (C).
2. Reconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector, the passenger's airbag 4P connector, and both seat
belt tensioner 4P connectors. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. After installing the
front impact sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on
Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect both side curtain airbag 2P connectors. 3. Remove the rear seat. 4. Disconnect the
floor wire harness 4P connector from the rear safing sensor. 5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the
TORX bolt (A), then remove the rear safing sensor (B).
Installation
1. Install the rear safing sensor (A) with a new TORX bolt (B) then connect the floor wire harness
4P connector (C) to the rear safing sensor.
2. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 3. Reinstall all removed parts. 4. After installing the
rear safing sensor, confirm proper system operation: Turn the ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS
indicator should come on for
08-041
June 7, 2008
ODS Unit Initialization, ODS Unit Calibration, and Seat Weight Sensor Output Check With Manual
Mode
BACKGROUND
The 2006 2008 Civic Service Manual shows procedures for the occupant detection system (ODS)
unit initialization, the ODS unit calibration, and the front passenger's seat weight sensor output
check after a vehicle collision These procedures are normally done by following the on-screen
instructions on the HDS Due to some software variations between the SRS unit and the ODS unit
in some vehicles, when doing one of these procedures, the HDS may indicate to do the procedure
with manual mode However these manual mode procedures are not in the service manual In these
cases, follow the procedures in this bulletin to do the ODS unit initialization, the ODS unit
calibration or the front passenger's seat weight sensor output check with manual mode
NOTE
Even though these procedures are done manually, an HDS is still required.
^ Front Passengers Seat Weight Sensors Output Check After a Vehicle Collision With Manual
Mode
TOOL INFORMATION
NOTE:
Initialize the ODS unit after replacing the seat back cover, the seat back cushion, and/or the ODS
unit.
NOTE:
A new (uninitialized) ODS unit installed with a faulty OPDS sensor can cause DTC 85-71. If you
read this DTC, continue with this procedure.
2. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat back to a
normal upright position Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
flashes no.
8. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is initialized. Go to ODS UNIT
CALIBRATION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is initialized, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not initialized. Repeat steps 3 thru
13. If after three attempts you cannot initialize the ODS unit, refer to symptom troubleshooting in
the service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the MES connector. Do not use a jumper wire.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Occupant Detection System Initialization > Page 7155
17. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (0). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
Always calibrate the ODS unit after replacing any of the front passenger's seat components (except
the ODS unit or the seat weight sensors), after a vehicle collision, or after replacing the SRS unit.
2. Adjust the front passengers seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to the
forward-most position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
4. If not already connected, connect the HDS to the DLC, then turn on the HDS (but do not turn the
ignition switch to ON (II).
7. On the next screen, select YES to short the SCS line. After the line is shorted, the odometer
display flashes no.
10. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
11. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, buckle the driver's seat belt.
12. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, unbuckle the driver's seat belt.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then goes off, the ODS unit is calibrated. Turn the ignition
switch to LOCK (0), then go to FRONT PASSENGER'S SEAT WEIGHT SENSOR OUTPUT
CHECK AFTER A VEHICLE COLLISION WITH MANUAL MODE.
^ If the SRS indicator blinks twice and then stays on, the ODS unit is calibrated, but there are SRS
DTCs that need to be cleared. Go to step 14.
^ If the SRS indicator stays on (does not blink), the ODS unit is not calibrated. Repeat steps 8 thru
13. If after three attempts the ODS unit does not calibrate, refer to symptom troubleshooting in the
service manual.
16. Connect the SCS service connector to the 2P memory erase signal (MES) connector. Do not
use a jumper wire.
18. After turning the ignition switch to ON (II), the SRS indicator comes on for 6 seconds and then
goes off. Within 4 seconds after the indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector.
19. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator comes on again, reconnect the SCS service
connector to the MES connector.
20. Within 4 seconds after the SRS indicator goes off, disconnect the SCS service connector from
the MES connector. The SRS indicator blinks twice to indicate the SRS unit memory has been
cleared.
21. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), and wait for 10 seconds.
22. Turn the ignition switch to ON (I I). The SRS indicator should come on for 6 seconds and then
go off. If the indicator stays on, repeat steps 14 thru 22. If after doing those steps the indicator
continues to stay on, read and troubleshoot the SRS DTCs or refer to symptom troubleshooting.
23. Use the HDS to remove the short on the SCS line.
NOTE:
^ Always check the front passenger's seat weight sensor output after replacing any of the front
passenger's seat components, except the ODS unit, and after a vehicle collision.
1. Adjust the front passenger's seat to its most rearward position, and adjust the seat-back to a
normal upright position. Make sure to remove items that are on, under, or near the seat.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and wait for the passenger airbag OFF indicator to go off.
^ 2-door: 64 pounds. (A case of Honda coolant and a 1 gallon jug of VTM-4 fluid is 64 pounds.)
4. For 2-door models: Firmly tap on the headrest twice to release any stiction that may be present
in the seat weight sensors.
5. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should come on and stay on. If the
indicator does not come on, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them.
8. Watch the passenger airbag OFF indicator. The indicator should go off.
^ If the indicator goes off, the front passenger's weight sensors are OK.
^ If the indicator does not go off, check for SRS DTCs and troubleshoot them, then repeat steps 1
thru 8.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Restraint Systems > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7157
Seat Occupant Sensor: Locations
Removal
NOTE: Removal of the front passenger's weight sensors must be done according to Precautions
and Procedures.
1. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Remove the front passenger's seat assembly. 3. Remove the cushion cover/pad from the seat
cushion frame. 4. Using a TORX E18 socket, remove the TORX nuts (A) attaching the seat track
(B) to the front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four
5. Disconnect the sensor connectors (D) from the seat weight sensors (E), then remove the front
passenger's weight sensors.
Installation
NOTE: Be sure to install the harness wires so they are not pinched or interfering with other parts.
1. Install the new front passenger's seat slide assembly including all four front passenger's weight
sensors under the seat track. 2. Apply multipurpose grease to the spring washer and bushing.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7162
3. Insert a 3.5 mm center punch into the hole in the cushion frame to position the spring washers,
when tighten the TORX nuts (A). Begin with (1),
6. Reassemble the front passenger's seat cushion cover/pad. 7. Reinstall the front passenger's
seat. 8. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 9. Calibrate the ODS unit.
10. After installing the front passenger's weight sensors, confirm proper system operation: Turn the
ignition switch to ON (II); the SRS indicator
Removal
NOTE:
- Removal of the driver's seat position sensor must be done according Precautions and
Procedures.
- Do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while removing the
driver's seat position sensor.
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 2.
Disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector. 3. Remove the driver's seat assembly. 4. Disconnect
the seat position sensor harness 2P connector (A) from the driver's seat position sensor.
5. Using a TORX T30 bit, remove the TORX bolt (B), then remove the driver's seat position sensor.
Installation
NOTE:
- Be sure to install the harness so it does not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Do not turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and do not connect the battery cable while installing the
driver's seat position sensor.
- After installing the driver's seat position sensor, make sure it is clean. Keep it away from dust.
1. Install the new driver's seat position sensor with a new TORX bolt (A), then connect the seat
position sensor harness 2P connector to the driver's
2. Install the driver's seat assembly. 3. Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. 4. Check the
operation of the driver's seat position sensor with the HDS.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Global Positioning System Antenna >
Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the navigation unit. 2. Remove the subdisplay visor. 3. Remove the wire harness clip
(A), screws, and GPS antenna (B).
Antenna Cable: Technical Service Bulletins Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair
08-088
October 2, 2009
(Supersedes 08-088, dated November 20, 2008, to revise the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under TOOL IN FORMATION, a new antenna adapter was added, and photos of all the adapters
were added.*
SYMPTOM
NOTE:
If the vehicle is 2006-07 Ridgeline, refer to Service Bulletin 07-079, Poor AM Reception or Static
While Driving Over Bumps, before using the following REPAIR PROCEDURE.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Test the antenna circuit using the test antenna, and repair or replace any damaged AM/FM
antenna leads or parts.
*TOOL INFORMATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Radio > Antenna Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7178
NOTE:
Adapter TIN 07AAJ-000A700 has a small barrel adapter on one end with a standard barrel adapter
on the other end. All other adapters have a standard barrel adapter on the end that is not shown.*
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
^ Vehicles may have the following parts that you need to check. Refer to the applicable service
manual for more information on these parts:
- AM/FM antenna
^ There are several different antenna styles and locations. Refer to the applicable service manual
for specific part information and locations.
^ Aftermarket metallic window tinting can affect AM/ FM window antennas. If the vehicle is
equipped with a window antenna, check all the other parts
first. If the reception is still poor and the vehicle has aftermarket tinting, remove the tinting, then
retest. If the reception is still poor, replace the AM/FM antenna.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Radio > Antenna Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7179
^ To prevent rattles, slapping, or other noises, make sure to attach the sublead and the lead to the
vehicle harness or the vehicle using clips, wire ties, or
electrical tape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Radio > Antenna Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7180
^ Refer to the following illustrations for the names and general locations of the AM/FM antenna and
its parts. These images are examples only. Refer to
^ Online, enter keyword SEEK, then select Seek Stop Test from the list.
- If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 2.
^ Online, enter keyword SEEK, then select Seek Stop Test from the list.
- If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 2.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antenna > Antenna, Radio > Antenna Cable >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio System - Revised Poor Reception Repair > Page 7181
2. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if
equipped).
NOTE:
Eject all the discs before removing the audio unit to prevent damaging the CD player's load
mechanism.
3. Disconnect the AM/FM antenna lead from the AMI FM antenna amplifier lead.
NOTE:
Refer to the applicable service manual, because you may need to remove trim, the headliner, or
other parts.
4. Connect the test antenna to the AM/FM antenna lead using the appropriate adapter.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives is within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, go to step 15.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 6.
6. Disconnect the AM/FM antenna sublead from the AM/FM antenna lead.
7. Connect the test antenna to the AM/FM antenna sublead (the harness connected to the audio
unit) using the appropriate adapter.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives is within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, go to step 13.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, go to step 9.
10. Connect the test antenna to the audio unit using the appropriate adapter.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives increases and is within 10 percent of
those on a known-good vehicle, go to step 12.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations doesn't improve, or is not within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, replace the audio unit, then retest.
13. At the AM/FM antenna sublead, do the troubleshooting to check the voltage and the continuity:
^ Online, enter keyword FM, then select Symptom Troubleshooting: Poor AM or FM radio reception
or interference from the list.
14. Reconnect the AM/FM antenna sublead to the AM/ FM antenna lead.
15. At the AM/FM antenna lead, do the troubleshooting to check the voltage and the continuity:
^ Online, enter keyword FM, then select Symptom Troubleshooting: Poor AM or FM radio reception
or interference from the list.
- If the Poor AM or FM radio reception troubleshooting results are NG, replace the AM/FM antenna
lead.
NOTE:
^ Some vehicles do not have an AM/FM antenna amplifier, or have one that is built into the AM/FM
antenna. In these cases, substitute a known- good AM/FM antenna.
^ Refer to the applicable service manual, because you may need to remove the headliner, the
carpet, or other parts to access the AM/FM antenna amplifier.
^ If the number of AM and FM stations the vehicle receives is within 10 percent of those on a
known-good vehicle, replace the original AM/FM antenna amplifier, then recheck.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, and it has a
separate antenna amplifier, repair or replace the AM/FM antenna.
^ If the vehicle receives at least 10 percent fewer stations than a known-good vehicle, and it
doesn't have an antenna amplifier, or has one built into the AM/FM antenna, replace the original
AM/FM antenna.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Alarm Module, (Vehicle
Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3.
Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer-keyless control unit (B).
4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer-keyless control unit. 5. Install the
immobilizer-keyless control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. After replacement, register the
immobilizer-keyless control unit, and make sure the immobilizer system work properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Antitheft and Alarm Systems > Hood Sensor/Switch
(For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Carefully pull out the auxiliary jack assembly (A), then disconnect the 5P connector (B).
06-001
Audio, Navigation, and RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange and Out-of-Warranty Repair
(Supersedes 06-601, dated March 4, 2009, to revise the information marked by the black bars and
asterisks)
*REVISION SUMMARY Under OUT-OF-WARRANTY REPAIR, the address for Pioneer Electronics
Service was changed.*
COVERAGE
This bulletin applies to all Honda audio units, CD players/changers, cassette tape players,
navigation units, and rear entertainment system (RES) units, both in warranty and out of warranty.
Use only remanufactured components for warranty repairs on customer vehicles. Follow the
warranty information and procedures given in this service bulletin.
^ Remanufactured audio, navigation, and RES units are not available for non-warranty repairs.
^ A new component may be used to repair a customer's vehicle only if the remanufactured
component is currently unavailable from American Honda.
^ You must receive authorization from your District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM) before
ordering a new component.
Failed Part: Use the RM part number from the repair order without the RM (example:
08A06-341-110)
Symptom Code: From Audio Customer Contention Codes in the Flat Rate Manual
Part used for repair: Use the RM part number from the repair order (example: 08A06-341-110RM)
IN-WARRANTY DIAGNOSIS
Service Advisor:
Interview the customer to get as much information as possible. Information like where and when
the problem occurs is vital to your diagnosis. This information also helps you to determine if the
audio, navigation, or RES system is operating normally, or if a problem exists. Write the complaint
on the repair order.
NOTE:
For CD/DVD related problems, you must verify if the customer used discs with adhesive labels.
Service Technician:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7211
1. Print out the appropriate system worksheet from an Interactive Network (iN) workstation.
^ Click on Audio System Worksheet, Navigation System Worksheet, or Rear Entertainment System
Worksheet.
2. Duplicate and confirm the problem using the customer information written on the repair order or
have the customer demonstrate the problem, then
Using the SYMPTOM TROUBLESHOOTING INDEX or the DTC INDEX (if applicable) in the
applicable service manual, find the symptom that matches the customers complaint, and follow the
diagnostic procedure:
- Enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES, and the DTC (if applicable)
- Select the appropriate Service Bulletin, ServiceNews article, or Symptom Troubleshooting from
the list.
3. Repair the vehicle according to your diagnosis, then confirm the repair by trying to duplicate the
customer's original complaint, or check to see if the
DTC returns:
^ For vehicle service contract (VSC) and certified used car (CUC) repairs, call.
^ For goodwill repairs, contact your dealership's District Parts and Service Manager (DPSM).
IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE
Service Technician:
NOTE:
^ Use the iN to order a remanufactured audio, navigation, or RES unit. Do not call the
Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group.
^ A Tech Line reference number is not required to submit the order. Check Yes, and enter the
Reference Number only when there is a preexisting Tech Line contact.
2. From the iN main menu, click on SERVICE, then click on AUDIO, then select Warranty Audio
Order.
3. Select the model, year, and keyword (AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES) for the vehicle you are
working on, then click on Search.
4. Review all displayed publications for additional repair information. If you cannot repair the
problem, go to step 5.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7213
5. Click Warranty Audio Order to view the Warranty Audio Order form.
6. Enter the VIN and the mileage, then click the Submit button to view the Warranty Audio Order
form. Use the completed Audio/Navigation/RES
Worksheet to help you answer the questions on the Warranty Audio Order form.
Questions with a red asterisk (*) are required fields that you must answer to submit the form. Make
sure the information is complete (17-digit VIN, etc.). This information is critical to the
remanufacturing process.
Screen # 2 of the form contains the problem description, condition information, and shared
functions. Fill this section out with as much information as possible. Select one part number from
the list provided, then click Submit.
It is your responsibility to ensure the correct part number is selected based on color and application
information.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7214
NOTE:
Once you submit your order, you can track it using the Warranty Audio VIN Inquiry screen on the
iN. For details, go to WARRANTY AUDIO ORDER PROGRAM FREQUENTLY ASKED
QUESTIONS in this service bulletin.
7. You will receive a remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit packed in a reusable shipping box.
Save this box and the packing materials.
You must return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this box. Otherwise your dealership
risks being billed a core loss charge, ranging from $800 to $2,500, depending on the unit.
^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate removal
procedure from the list.
^ Online, enter a keyword: AUDIO, NAVIGATION, or RES. Select the appropriate installation
procedure from the list.
10. If the remanufactured unit has a shipping cover and shipping screws, make sure you transfer
them to the faulty unit being returned. Also be sure to
transfer all of the mounting brackets to the replacement unit. Failure to do this may result in dash
squeaks and rattles.
NOTE:
If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is stuck in the unit,
leave it there for these reasons:
Make sure the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not disassembled! If the core is
disassembled, your dealership will be debited a core loss charge ranging from $800 to $2,500,
depending on the unit.
11. Put the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in the same box that the remanufactured unit
came in.
NOTE:
If you do not return the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core in this same box, your warranty claim
will be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership.
Parts Manager:
12. The Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form you submitted is kept on the iN for 60
days. Print out a copy to put in the box with your core
return:
^ Click on Transactions.
^ Under Transaction Description, click on Warranty Audio Order, then go back to the top of the
page and click on Search.
^ Scroll down to the appropriate VIN, then select it to view the form.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon.
13. Print out a copy of the Core Return Update Acknowledgement to put in the box with your core
return:
^ Select the appropriate VIN to view the Update Core Return information screen.
^ Review the form, then print out a copy by clicking on the printer icon.
14. Place the printed copies of the Warranty Audio/Navigation/RES Unit Order form and the Core
Return Update Acknowledgement into the core
NOTE:
If you return a failed audio/navigation/RES core without the proper forms, your warranty claim will
be debited and the core will be sent back to your dealership.
15. Ship the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core to the appropriate location by using the prepaid
shipping label that came with the remanufactured
audio/navigation/RES unit.
NOTE:
If the failed audio/navigation/RES unit core is not received at the specified address within 30 days
from the order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, your warranty claim will be
debited, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500. If
you know that you cannot return the core within 30 days, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer
Service Group, and ask for an extension.
^ If you call for an extension and the core is not received within 60 days from the order date, you
will be debited the full amount of the warranty claim.
^ If you do not call for an extension, and the core is received between 31 and 60 days from the
order date of the remanufactured audio/navigation/RES unit, a $250 late core charge will be
assessed.
Here is a list of answers to the most frequently asked questions about the warranty audio order
program:
Answer: Use the program when you are replacing an audio/navigation/RES unit under warranty
(including goodwill) that has an internal failure.
NOTE:
The customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, etc.) is removed by the
supplier at tear down and inspection of the failed unit, and mailed to your dealership.
Any failed audio/navigation/RES unit core that is returned disassembled is considered an unusable
core, and your dealership will be issued a core loss charge ranging between $800 and $2,500.
Answer: For a warranty replacement, use the ordering information IN WARRANTY EXCHANGE.
Question: Who do I call for questions on the Warranty Audio Order Program?
Answer: For administrative questions, call the Remanufactured Parts Dealer Service Group.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7216
Question: Who do I call if I need help diagnosing the problem or if I have technical questions about
the unit?
Answer: If you cannot find the answers in the appropriate service manual, service bulletins, or
ServiceNews articles on iN, create a Tech Line access code, then call Tech Line:
2. Select Tech Line. A dropdown menu appears, then select Tech Line. The ISIS main screen
appears.
3. Select SEARCH BY VEHICLE, and enter any vehicle with any keyword like NAVI, AUDIO, or
RES.
If you cannot resolve the problem with the information below, then click Tech Line. Select Tech
Line.
5. The Tech Line access code screen appears. Fill in all the required fields, then select SUBMIT.
6. Have the access number ready when you call Tech Line.
Answer: No.
Question: What year and model audio/navigation/RES unit can I order through the warranty audio
order program?
Answer: Most current models are available through the vehicle's standard warranty period. If your
application is not available, you will receive a message instructing you to call the Re manufactured
Parts Dealer Service Group at 888-997-7278.
4. Enter a date in the All Orders Accepted Since box, then click on Submit.
The AUDIO VIN INQUIRY ACKNOWLEDGEMENT screen appears, listing orders by VIN, ORD
REF (Order Reference), STAT (Status), SHIP DATE, SHIPPER, and PART NUMBER.
^ APPR - RPO Tech Line approved your order and forwarded it to AHM Parts.
^ CAN/BOC - Your order has been cancelled contact your assigned parts center.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Entertainment Systems > DVD Player > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Audio/Navigation/RES - Warr. Exchange/Non-Warr Repair > Page 7217
^ ALO/BOA - Your order has been allocated, but not released for shipment.
^ INV - Your order has been invoiced to your dealer parts account.
Service Technician:
1. If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, or cassette tape) is stuck inside the
faulty unit, fill out a Customer Media Return Label
(reorder number Y0325), and attach it to the unit. The manufacturer will remove the media, and
mail it back to your dealership.
2. Use the pre paid shipping label. Each audio supplier provides a prepaid shipping label with the
remanufactured audio unit.
Return the core using this label to ensure it is received at the appropriate location for credit. Use
the pre paid shipping labels to return audio cores to authorized locations only; do not use them for
any other purpose. If you need additional prepaid shipping labels, contact Remanufactured Parts
Operations.
^ Pack one audio unit per box, and use a separate shipping label for each one.
^ On the line requesting Your Internal Reference Information, enter YOUR DEALER NUMBER and
the WARRANTY CLAIM NUMBER.
3. On the repair order, write down the warranty claim number, the original part number, the serial
numbers from both the faulty and remanufactured
4. Ship the faulty unit in the same box the remanufactured unit came in. Make sure you include this
required paperwork:
NOTE:
When the Remanufacturing Center gets the faulty unit, your warranty audio order will be updated to
indicate that the core was received. If the core is received 31-60 days from the order date, and you
have been debited a core loss charge, your dealership will be credited back, less a $250 late fee.
NOTE:
If you are making a repair or exchange because of a service bulletin or service campaign, do not
use OUT-OF-WARRANTY procedures. Refer to IN-WARRANTY EXCHANGE for more information.
Service Advisor:
1. Give your customer an estimate for repairing the unit (see step 6), plus the labor cost to replace
it. For an Alpine unit, your customer has the option of
contacting Alpine Electronics directly. Alpine's customer service number is 800-421-2284, Ext.
860304.
Service Technician:
^ Online, enter keyword AUDIO, NAVI, or RES, and select the appropriate removal procedure from
the list.
NOTE:
If the customer's media (CD, CD magazine, DVD, DVD-A, cassette tape, navigation DVD, etc.) is
stuck in the unit, leave it there. The manufacturer will remove and return it.
^ Select the applicable form from the list, and print it out:
Parts Manager:
5. Identify the manufacturer. Units sent to the wrong manufacturer may not be shipped back within
the usual 5-7 days.
^ If the unit has no number code on its face, check the label on the unit housing, and compare the
first two or three letters of the radio reference number (or the audio unit model number) to this list:
Alpine - CM, CD, MR, or MF Clarion - PH Fujitsu Ten - CE or SD Panasonic - CQ or CR Pioneer -
KEH or DEH
6. Contact the manufacturer (see step 9) to request an estimate for the cost of the repair plus
shipping.
^ Paying by check - Make a dealership check out to the manufacturer for the cost of repair and
return shipping. Make sure to include the check
NOTE:
For all Panasonic products, make your check out to Komtec Electronics.
^ Paying by credit card (Visa or Mastercard only) - When you use a credit card, fill in all of these
fields on the component repair form:
- Phone number
NOTE:
If you send in a faulty unit without a check or complete credit card information, the manufacturer
may send it back to you unrepaired, or they may repair it and send it back to you C.O.D.
^ Print two copies of the completed Out-of-Warranty/New Replacement component repair form.
Keep one copy with the repair order, and include the other copy with the faulty unit when you send
it to the manufacturer.
8. Carefully pack the faulty unit and the paperwork in a suitable box, and label the box clearly. You
are responsible for lost or damaged units; keep all
Alpine Electronics of America c/o Standard Radio Engineering Corp. 2012 Abalone Ave., Unit D
Torrance, CA 90501 800-421-2284, Ext. 860304
S3 Clarion Factory Service Center 241 Beaver Rd. Walton, KY 41094 800-347-8667 (You must get
authorization from Clarion before shipping units)
FTH Group Inc. (Kenwood Accessory Parts) 16685 E. Johnson Dr. City of Industry, CA 91745
626-333-2435 (You must get an RMA authorization number from www.fthgroupinc.com; from the
home page, select Consumer Products)
Komtec Electronics (Panasonic) 6590 Darin Way Cypress, CA 90630 714-903-3300 (Make sure
your check is made out to Komtec)
* Pioneer Electronics Service, Inc. 1925 E. Dominguez St. Long Beach, CA 90801 800-553-3756*
NOTE:
^ The manufacturer will repair the unit and ship it back within 5-7 working days, via UPS ground
prepaid or 2nd Day Air (whichever you requested). Do not forget to include the shipping cost in
your dealership payment. Units damaged by misuse or mishandling cannot be shipped back within
the usual 5-7 days.
^ Each manufacturer's guarantee for the repair differs. To confirm the repair guarantee, contact the
manufacturer using the phone number listed above.
10. To check on the status of your repair order, call the manufacturer.
If your customer has any further questions or concerns, have them call Automobile Customer
Service at 800-999-1009.
NOTE:
A damaged unit may need extra repair. If so, the manufacturer will call you with an estimate of any
added charges.
^ If you accept the estimate, mail a dealership check for the additional amount to the manufacturer,
authorize the increased amount to be applied to the credit card payment, or have the manufacturer
ship the unit back to you, and you pay the difference upon arrival (C.O.D.).
^ If you reject the estimate, the faulty unit will be returned to you along with a refund. However, you
will be charged $30.00 (C.O.D.) for diagnosis, shipping, and handling. The unit will be shipped back
to you, via UPS Ground.
NOTE:
It is very important that you fill out this form fully and accurately. An accurate explanation of the
problem and conditions helps the manufacturer to duplicate the problem, speeding the repair, and
reducing the number of No Trouble Found" (NTF) units.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Global Positioning System > Global Positioning
System Antenna > Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the navigation unit. 2. Remove the subdisplay visor. 3. Remove the wire harness clip
(A), screws, and GPS antenna (B).
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component location. Also review the
precautions and procedures in Restraint Systems before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Lay a workshop towel under the parts when working on them to protect the face panel from
scratches or other damage.
- Discharge static electricity from your body before and during the work.
- Do not touch the terminal connector of the flat plate cable with your bare hands. (If you have
touched it, wipe it off thoroughly.)
- Before replacing the navigation unit, make sure to remove the customer's navigation DVD, and
their audio CD, or PC card. Remanufactured navigation units do not come with a navigation DVD.
Re-install the customer's navigation DVD, audio CD, and audio PC card into the new
remanufactured unit. If the navigation display won't open, manually remove the navigation DVD,
audio CD, and PC card.
1. Make sure you have the 4-digit anti-theft code for the navigation system, then write down the
audio presets (if applicable). 2. Eject the DVD from the original navigation unit. To avoid scratching
or damaging the DVD, temporarily place the DVD in jewel case. 3. Remove the subdisplay visor. 4.
Remove the center pocket hole lid and bolts, then pull out the center panel (A).
5. Disconnect the connectors (B) and air hose (C), then remove the center panel. 6. Remove the
screws, brackets (A), and the navigation unit (B) from the center panel (C).
7. Install the navigation unit in the reverse order of removal and make sure all connectors are
secure. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then reinstall the customer's original DVD, verifying
than the DVD is free of scratches or smudges. 9. Check any official Honda service website for
more service information about the navigation system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Navigation System > Navigation Module > Component
Information > Locations > Page 7244
NOTE: Simply transferring the DVD from the original navigation unit to the new navigation unit
does not assure the correct software for the vehicle will be loaded into the new navigation unit.
Doing the DVD transfer without doing software patches may cause the new navigation unit to
appear to be malfunctioning.
10. Enter the new navigation anti-theft code, then enter the audio presets. 11. Park the vehicle
outside, and do the GPS initialization. 12. Give the new navigation anti-theft code to the customer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Amplifier, Sound
System > Component Information > Diagrams
SYMPTOM
The sound from the XM radio cuts out or disappears, but the audio unit continues to display the XM
station information. The sound returns after the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0), then back to
ACC (I) or ON (II).
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008-09 Accord 2007-09 Civic 2007-09 Civic Hybrid 2007-09 CR-V 2008-09 Element 2008-09
Odyssey 2009 Ridgeline
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Civic:
Civic Hybrid:
Element:
2008-09 without navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A71 2009 with navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A81
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, under Search by Vehicle, enter keywords REMOVE XM and select the applicable XM
Removal/Installation instructions from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Radio Receiver > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Radio Receiver:
> 10-024 > Jun > 10 > Satellite Radio - XM Stations Displayed/No XM Audio
Radio Receiver: All Technical Service Bulletins Satellite Radio - XM Stations Displayed/No XM
Audio
10-024
SYMPTOM
The sound from the XM radio cuts out or disappears, but the audio unit continues to display the XM
station information. The sound returns after the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0), then back to
ACC (I) or ON (II).
PROBABLE CAUSE
VEHICLES AFFECTED
2008-09 Accord 2007-09 Civic 2007-09 Civic Hybrid 2007-09 CR-V 2008-09 Element 2008-09
Odyssey 2009 Ridgeline
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
Civic:
Civic Hybrid:
Element:
2008-09 without navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A71 2009 with navigation: P/N 39820-SCV-A81
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, under Search by Vehicle, enter keywords REMOVE XM and select the applicable XM
Removal/Installation instructions from the list.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Radio/Stereo >
Remote Switch, Audio - Stereo > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the audio remote switch. 3. Install the audio remote
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Radio, Stereo, and Compact Disc > Speaker >
Component Information > Diagrams
Speaker: Diagrams
Speaker Replacement
1. Remove the front door panel. 2. Remove the screw. Then lift the speaker (A) straight up to
release the lower clips (B).
3. Disconnect the 2P connector (C), and remove the speaker. 4. Install the speaker in the reverse
order of removal.
Tweeter
1. Carefully pry the tweeter grille (A) out of the dashboard. Be careful not to damage the tweeter
grille and the dashboard.
2. Disconnect the 2P connector (B) from the tweeter. 3. Remove the tweeter from the speaker
grille.
Rear Speaker
2. Remove the screw. Then lift the speaker (A) straight up to release the clips (B).
3. Disconnect the 2P connector (C), and remove the speaker. 4. Install the speaker in the reverse
order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Alarm Module, (Vehicle Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the driver's dashboard lower cover. 2. Remove the steering column covers. 3.
Disconnect the 7P connector (A) from the immobilizer-keyless control unit (B).
4. Remove the two screws and the immobilizer-keyless control unit. 5. Install the
immobilizer-keyless control unit in the reverse order of removal. 6. After replacement, register the
immobilizer-keyless control unit, and make sure the immobilizer system work properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Keyless Entry Module > Component Information > Locations
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component location. Also review the
precautions and procedures in Restraint Systems before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Lay a workshop towel under the parts when working on them to protect the face panel from
scratches or other damage.
- Discharge static electricity from your body before and during the work.
- Do not touch the terminal connector of the flat plate cable with your bare hands. (If you have
touched it, wipe it off thoroughly.)
- Before replacing the navigation unit, make sure to remove the customer's navigation DVD, and
their audio CD, or PC card. Remanufactured navigation units do not come with a navigation DVD.
Re-install the customer's navigation DVD, audio CD, and audio PC card into the new
remanufactured unit. If the navigation display won't open, manually remove the navigation DVD,
audio CD, and PC card.
1. Make sure you have the 4-digit anti-theft code for the navigation system, then write down the
audio presets (if applicable). 2. Eject the DVD from the original navigation unit. To avoid scratching
or damaging the DVD, temporarily place the DVD in jewel case. 3. Remove the subdisplay visor. 4.
Remove the center pocket hole lid and bolts, then pull out the center panel (A).
5. Disconnect the connectors (B) and air hose (C), then remove the center panel. 6. Remove the
screws, brackets (A), and the navigation unit (B) from the center panel (C).
7. Install the navigation unit in the reverse order of removal and make sure all connectors are
secure. 8. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II), then reinstall the customer's original DVD, verifying
than the DVD is free of scratches or smudges. 9. Check any official Honda service website for
more service information about the navigation system.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Navigation Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 7304
NOTE: Simply transferring the DVD from the original navigation unit to the new navigation unit
does not assure the correct software for the vehicle will be loaded into the new navigation unit.
Doing the DVD transfer without doing software patches may cause the new navigation unit to
appear to be malfunctioning.
10. Enter the new navigation anti-theft code, then enter the audio presets. 11. Park the vehicle
outside, and do the GPS initialization. 12. Give the new navigation anti-theft code to the customer.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Sensors and Switches - Accessories and Optional
Equipment > Hood Sensor/Switch (For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
1. Remove the steering wheel. 2. Remove the audio remote switch. 3. Install the audio remote
switch in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Towing / Trailer System > Towing Information >
System Information > Service and Repair
Towing
If the vehicle needs to be towed, call a professional towing service. Never tow the vehicle behind
another vehicle with a rope or chain. It is very dangerous.
Emergency Towing
Flat-bed Equipment - The operator loads the vehicle on the back of a truck. This is the best way of
transporting the vehicle.
To accommodate flat-bed equipment, the vehicle is equipped with front towing hooks (A), front tie
down hook slots (B), rear towing hook (C), and rear tie down hook slots (D).
The towing hooks can be used with a winch to pull the vehicle onto the truck, and the tie down
hook slots can be used to secure the vehicle to the truck.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Towing / Trailer System > Towing Information >
System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7321
Wheel Lift Equipment - The tow truck uses two pivoting arms that go under the tires (front or rear)
and lifts them off the ground. The other two wheels remain on the ground. This is an acceptable
way of towing the vehicle.
Sling-type Equipment - The tow truck uses metal cables with hooks on the ends. These hooks go
around parts of the frame or suspension, and the cables lift that end of the vehicle off the ground.
The vehicle's suspension and body can be seriously damaged if this method of towing is
attempted. This method of towing the vehicle is unacceptable.
If the vehicle cannot be transported by a flat-bed, it should be towed with the front wheels off the
ground. If the vehicle is damaged, and must be towed with the front wheels on the ground, or with
all four wheels on the ground, do this:
- Leave the ignition switch ACCESSORY (I) so the steering wheel does not lock.
- Make sure all accessories are turned off to minimize battery current draw.
It is best to tow the vehicle no farther than 50 miles (80 km), and keep the speed below 35 mph (55
km/h).
NOTICE:
- Improper towing preparation will damage the transmission. Follow the above procedure exactly. If
you cannot shift the transmission or start the engine, the vehicle must be transported on a flat-bed.
- Trying to lift or tow the vehicle by the bumpers will cause serious damage. The bumpers are not
designed to support the vehicle's weight.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Accessories and Optional Equipment > Voice Activation System > Voice Activation
Microphone > Component Information > Diagrams
Microphone Replacement
2. Disconnect the 10P connector (B) from the microphone. 3. Carefully, pry off the microphone (C)
from the map light housing (D) while pressing in on the retaining tabs (E). 4. Install the microphone
in the reverse order removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > System Information > Description and Operation
Door reinforcement beams used on Civic vehicles are made from a metal equivalent to high
strength steel.
If high strength steel is heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If high strength steel is
damaged, as in a vehicle accident, where the door reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may
crack attempting to straighten them.
Front and rear bumper reinforcement beams are made with aluminum alloy.
For this reason, door and bumper reinforcement beams should NEVER be repaired; they should be
replaced if they are damaged.
NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Front Bumper > System Information > Description and Operation
> Page 7332
Front Bumper: Service and Repair
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the front bumper.
2. Remove the bolts (A), the screws (B), and the clips (C, D) securing the front bumper (E).
NOTE: To remove the clips C and D, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (F) on its head.
3. Pull on the front bumper (A) at the wheel arch areas to release it from the hooks (B) on the side
spacers (C).
4. With the help of an assistant, while pulling the wheel arch portion away from the side spacer (A),
pull the front bumper to release the bumper from
6. Release the hooks (A), then remove the front bumper absorber (B) from the front bumper beam
(C).
7. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the front bumper engages the hooks (of both corner upper beams and side spacers)
on each side securely.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Door reinforcement beams used on Civic vehicles are made from a metal equivalent to high
strength steel.
If high strength steel is heated, the strength of the steel will be reduced. If high strength steel is
damaged, as in a vehicle accident, where the door reinforcement beams are bent, the beams may
crack attempting to straighten them.
Front and rear bumper reinforcement beams are made with aluminum alloy.
For this reason, door and bumper reinforcement beams should NEVER be repaired; they should be
replaced if they are damaged.
NOTE: If a door beam is damaged, the whole door panel assembly should be replaced.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Rear Bumper > System Information > Description and Operation
> Page 7337
Rear Bumper: Service and Repair
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the rear bumper.
1. Remove the clips (A), screws (B, C), and bolts (D) securing the rear bumper (E).
2. Pull on the rear bumper (A) at the wheel arch areas to release it from the hooks (B) on the side
spacers (C).
3. With the help of an assistant, while pulling the wheel arch portion away from the side spacer (A),
pull the rear bumper to release the bumper from
4. With the help of an assistant, while pulling the rear bumper to release the rear bumper (A) from
the hooks (B) on the upper bracket(C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Bumper > Rear Bumper > System Information > Description and Operation
> Page 7338
5. Remove the hooks (A), then remove the rear bumper absorber (B) from the rear bumper beam
(C).
6. Install the bumper in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the rear bumper engages the hooks (of both the side bracket and side spacers) on
each side securely.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the rear bumper. 2. Detach the hooks (A), then remove the rear air outlet (B). Take care
not to scratch the body.
3. Install the air outlet by pushing on the hook portions until the hooks snap into place.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Cowl > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information > Service and Repair
Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair
1. Turn on the wiper switch, and move the windshield wiper arms 90°. 2. Remove the center cowl
cover (A).
1. Remove the hood rear seal (B) by pulling it out. 2. Remove the clips (C). 3. Release three front
hooks (D) from the edge of the under-cowl panel (E). 4. Detach the clips (F, G) by carefully pulling
the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (H). Take care not to scratch the body.
3. Disconnect the windshield washer tube (I). 4. If necessary, remove the bolts (A, B), then remove
the under-cowl panel (C).
6. Detach the clips by carefully pulling the side cowl cover (A) up, then remove the cover by
releasing the hooks (B) from the front fender. Take care
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Cowl > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information > Service and Repair >
Page 7346
not to scratch the body. Repeat this step for the other side cowl cover, and disconnect the
windshield washer tube.
7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel. 3. Disconnect the power door lock actuator
connector (A).
4. Remove the plug caps (B), then remove the plastic cover (C), as needed. 5. Detach the rod
fastener (A).
6. Remove the maintenance cap (A). Disconnect the outer handle rod (B) with a clip remover.
7. Driver's side: Pull both side flanges (A) of the retainer (B) outward, and pull the middle flange
portion (C) of the outer casing cover (D) out, then
9. Remove the bolt securing the outer handle protector (A), then remove the protector by releasing
the hook (B).
10. If necessary, remove the special screws, then separate the door cylinder (A) and the outer
handle protector (B). If the retainer (C) is damaged,
12. Remove the rod fastener (A) from the outer handle (B), then replace it with a new one.
13. Install the handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder cable and each rod is connected securely.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel and inner handle. 3. Remove the plastic cover,
as needed. 4. Detach the rod fastener. 5. Disconnect the outer handle rod from the outer handle. 6.
Disconnect the cylinder cable from the latch. 7. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as needed, and
remove the bolt, then remove the center lower channel (B) by pulling it downward.
8. Detach the latch cable (A) and the inner handle cable (B) from the holder (C), then remove the
screws (D, E) securing the latch (F). Remove the
latch through the hole in the door. Take care not to bend the outer handle rod (G), the latch cable,
and the inner handle cable.
9. Remove the screw, then remove the latch protector (A) by releasing the hook (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Latch > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7359
10. Detach the latch cable (A) and the inner handle cable (B) from the latch (C).
11. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the actuator connector is plugged in properly and each rod is connected securely.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Pry out on the rear portion of the inner handle cap (A) to release the
hooks (B, C) with the appropriate trim tool.
3. Remove the screw and clip securing the inner handle (A).
1. Pry upon the rear edge of the switch panel to release the rear clip with the appropriate trim tool.
2. Pull out along the edge of the panel to release all of the hooks (B). 3. Pull the switch panel
rearward to release the front hook (C). 4. Disconnect the power mirror switch connector (D)
(driver's) and the power window switch connector (E).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7363
5. Remove the screw.
6. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.
1. Start at the bottom edge of the door panel, release the clips (B, C) that are just above the marks
(D) on the edge of the panel with a
2. Detach the upper clips. 3. Starting at the rear, pull the door panel upward.
NOTE: The inner handle cable (E) and the latch cable (F) are connected to the inner handle (G).
Do not pull the door panel up too far, or these cables will be damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7364
7. While holding the door panel (A) away from the door, remove the inner handle (B) from the door
panel by releasing the hooks (C).
8. Remove the door panel (A) while pulling the inner handle (B) out through the hole in the door
panel.
9. If necessary, disconnect the inner handle cable (A) and the latch cable (B) from the inner handle
(C), then remove the handle.
1. Detach the inner handle cable fastener (D), then disconnect the inner handle cable from the
cable fastener (E). 2. Detach the latch cable fastener (F) with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect
the latch cable from the cable fastener (G).
10. Install the door panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- The latch cable (A) should be fixed to the cable fastener (B) with the latch in lock position as
shown.
- Make sure the connectors are plugged in properly, and the cables are connected securely.
- Make sure the window and the power door lock operate properly.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
Make sure the door latches securely without slamming it. If necessary, adjust the striker (A): The
striker nuts are fixed, but the striker can be adjusted slightly up or down, and in or out.
2. Wrap the striker with a shop towel, then adjust the striker by tapping it with a plastic hammer (C).
Do not tap the striker too hard. 3. Lightly tighten the screws. 4. Hold the outer handle out, and push
the door against the body to be sure the striker allows a flush fit. If the door latches properly,
tighten the
NOTE:
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D), then remove the door weatherstrip (E). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (F) securely.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before
installation.
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
NOTE:
1. Lower the glass fully. 2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front
door glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
5. Twist the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A) to pull the rear hook (B) out from the inside of
the door, then remove the weatherstrip.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window Glass
> Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7382
6. Push the clip portions of new front door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Window Regulator: >
06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel
Front Door Window Regulator: Customer Interest Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run
Channel
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Front Door Window Regulator: >
06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel > Page 7392
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
6. Reassemble the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > 06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel
Front Door Window Regulator: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out
Of Run Channel
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > 06-014 > Jul > 09 > Body - Front Door Glass Comes Out Of Run Channel > Page 7399
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
6. Reassemble the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7400
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7402
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
090707
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7403
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Technical Service Bulletin # 06-014 Date:
090707
06-014
July 7, 2009
*Applies To: 2006-08 Civic 4-Door - ALL Japan-Produced (VIN begins with JHM) 2007-08 Civic
Hybrid - ALL 2009 Civic Hybrid - From VIN JHMFA3...98000001 thru JHMFA3...98019119*
(Supersedes 06-014, dated September 7, 2007, to revise the information marked by the black bars)
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ In Applies To, the VIN ranges for the 2006-08 Civic 4-Door and the 2007-09 Civic Hybrid models
were changed.
^ Under PARTS INFORMATION, the part number and Honda code for the Front Window Regulator
were changed.*
SYMPTOM
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7405
The glass in the driver's or front passenger's door comes out of the run channel, or it binds and
then stalls when you try to close the window.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The manufacturing tolerances are not within specification for the glass run channel, the door glass,
and the window regulator.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the glass run channel, the door glass, and the window regulator.
PARTS INFORMATION
REQUIRED MATERIALS
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Front Door Window
Regulator: > Page 7406
Office. You must request consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to page 20-12 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-7 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords PANEL REM, then select Front Door Panel Removal/Installation (4-door)
from the list.
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
3. Replace the glass run channel. Lightly coat the inside of the glass run channel with Shin Etsu
silicone grease.
4. Replace the window regulator and the door glass with new parts:
^ Refer to page 20-19 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-14 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords DOOR GLASS, then select Front Door Glass and Regulator Replacement
from the list.
5. Adjust the window to make sure the glass is pushed to the back of the door, then tighten the
glass mounting bolts:
^ Refer to page 20-35 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 20-28 of the 2006-2009 Civic
Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keywords GLASS ADJUST, then select Glass Adjustment from the list.
^ Refer to page 22-255 of the 2006-2009 Civic Service Manual or page 22-193 of the 2006-2009
Civic Hybrid Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword RESET, then select Power Window Control Unit Reset from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7407
Front Door Window Regulator: Service and Repair
1. Remove the door panel. 2. Disconnect the power door lock actuator connector (A), and remove
the plug caps (B).
3. Pass the cables (C) and the harnesses (D) through the slits (E) in the plastic cover (F), then
remove them. 4. Carefully raise the glass (A) until you can see the bolts, then remove them.
Carefully pull the glass out through the window slot. Take care not to
5. Disconnect the connector (A), and detach the harness clip (B) from the regulator (C).
6. Remove the bolts (D), and loosen the bolts (E), then remove the regulator through the hole in the
door.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Front Door > Front Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7408
7. Apply multipurpose grease to all the sliding surfaces of the regulator (A) where shown.
8. Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding.
- Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and the glass run channel when the glass
is closed.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
- Make sure the power door locks, windows and power mirror operate properly.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel. 3. Detach the harness clip (A), and disconnect
the power door lock actuator connector (B).
4. Remove the rear portion of the plug cap (C), then remove the plastic cover (D), as needed. 5.
Remove the latch mounting screws, then lower the latch. 6. Detach the rod fastener (A).
7. Disconnect the outer handle rod (A) with a clip remover (B) from the outer handle (C).
8. Remove the maintenance seal (A). Remove the bolts securing the outer handle protector (B),
then remove the protector by releasing the hook (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Handle > Rear
Door Exterior Handle > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7414
9. While pulling the outer handle (A), remove the handle from the holes in the door panel. Take
care not to scratch the door.
10. Remove the rod fastener (A) from the outer handle (B), then replace it with a new one.
11. Install the handle in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Remove the door panel. 3. Remove the plastic cover, as needed. 4.
Remove the screws (A, B) securing the latch (C), then lower it.
5. Detach the rod fastener. 6. Disconnect the outer handle rod from the outer handle. 7. Detach the
latch cable (A) and the inner handle cable (B) from the holder (C), then remove the latch (D) out
from between the rear lower channel
(E) and the door. Take care not to bend the outer handle rod (F), the latch cable, and the inner
handle cable.
8. Remove the screw, then remove the latch protector (A) by releasing the hook (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Latch > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7418
9. Detach the latch cable (A) and the inner handle cable (B) from the latch (C).
10. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly, and each rod is connected securely.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Raise the glass fully. 2. Pry out on the rear portion of the inner handle cap (A) to release the
hooks (B, C) with the appropriate trim tool.
3. Remove the screw and clip securing the inner handle (A).
1. Pry upon the rear edge of the switch panel to release the rear clip with the appropriate trim tool.
2. Pull out along the edge of the panel to release the hooks (B). 3. Pull the switch panel rearward to
release the front hook (C). 4. Disconnect the power window switch connector (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7422
5. Remove the screw.
6. Remove the door panel (A) with as little bending as possible to avoid creasing or breaking it.
1. Start at the bottom edge of the door panel, release the clips (B, C) that are just above the marks
(D) on the edge of the panel with a
2. Detach the upper clips. 3. Stating at the rear, pull the door panel upward.
NOTE: The inner handle cable (E) and the latch cable (F) are connected to the inner handle (G).
Do not pull the door panel up too far, or these cables will be damaged.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Panel > System
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7423
7. While holding the door panel (A) away from the door, remove the inner handle (B) from the door
panel by releasing the hooks (C), if necessary.
8. Remove the door panel (A) while pulling the inner handle (B) out through the hole in the door
panel.
9. If necessary, disconnect the inner handle cable (A) and the latch cable (B) from the inner handle
(C).
1. Detach the inner handle cable fastener (D), then disconnect the inner handle cable from the
cable fastener (E). 2. Detach the latch cable fastener (F) with a flat-tip screwdriver, then disconnect
the latch cable from the cable fastener (G).
10. Install the door panel in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- The latch cable (A) should be fixed to the cable fastener (B) with the latch in lock position as
shown.
- Make sure the connector is plugged in properly, and the cables are connected securely.
- Make sure the window and power door lock operate properly.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
Make sure the door latches securely without slamming it. If necessary, adjust the striker (A): The
striker nuts are fixed, but the striker can be adjusted slightly up or down, and in or out.
2. Wrap the striker with a shop towel, then adjust the striker by tapping it with a plastic hammer (C).
Do not tap the striker too hard. 3. Lightly tighten the screws. 4. Hold the outer handle out, and push
the door against the body to be sure the striker allows a flush fit. If the door latches properly,
tighten the
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D), then remove the door weatherstrip (E). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before
installation.
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
3. Open the driver's or front passenger's door.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
NOTE:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Quarter glass
2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front portion of the rear door
glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the rear door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
4. Push the rear hook (A) out from inside of the door, then remove the rear door glass outer
weatherstrip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window Glass >
Rear Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7441
5. Push the clip portions of the rear door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the door panel. 2. Detach the harness clip (A), and disconnect the power door lock
actuator connector (B). Remove the plug caps (C).
3. Pass the cable (D) and the harnesses (E) through the holes (F) and slit (G) in the plastic cover
(H), then remove it. 4. Carefully move the glass (A) until you can see the bolts, then remove them.
Release the glass from the holder (B), then remove it from the
regulator (C), and carefully lower the glass. Take care not to drop the glass inside the door.
5. Remove the bolt (A) from the rear lower channel (B). Pull the glass run channel (C) away as
needed, and remove the screw (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7445
6. Pull the glass run channel (A) away as needed. Pull the rear lower channel (B) forward from the
quarter glass seal (C), then release the upper hook
(D) from the door. Remove the rear lower channel from the rear door glass (E), then pull the
channel up to remove it.
7. Remove the rear lower channel (A) from the glass run channel (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Doors > Rear Door > Rear Door Window
Regulator > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7446
8. Carefully remove the glass (A) out through the window slot. Take care not to drop the glass
inside the door.
9. Remove the quarter glass (A). Take care not to damage the outer weatherstrip (B).
13. Install the glass and regulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Roll the glass up and down to see if it moves freely without binding.
- Make sure that there is no clearance between the glass and the glass run channel when the glass
is closed.
- When reinstalling the door panel, make sure the plastic cover is installed properly and sealed
around its outside perimeter to seal out water.
NOTE:
2. Pull the carpet back as needed. 3. Release the opener cable (A) from the clips (B). Remove the
cushion tape (C).
4. While pinching the hooks (A) from inside the vehicle, remove the grommet (B) from the body.
5. Release the hook (A), then remove the grommet (B) from the fuel fill door latch (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Release Cable >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7452
6. Remove the fuel fill door opener cable from inside the body. 7. Detach the opener cable junction
box (A) from the body.
8. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable (B) from the trunk lid latch (C). 9. Release the trunk lid
opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the clips.
10. Remove the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the vehicle. Take care not to kink
the cable. 11. Install the opener cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Align the marks (A) on the opener cable (B) with the cable clips (C) as shown.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Pry out the bottom edge of the front side cap (A) at the notch with the trim tool to detach the
hooks (B), and release the hooks (C), then remove the
2. Remove the opener lock cylinder (E), and loose the bolt. 3. Remove the screw securing the front
door sill trim (A) and the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener.
4. Remove the front door sill trim. 5. Remove the bolt, then remove the trunk lid opener/ fuel fill
door opener (A) from the bolt (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Fuel Door > Fuel Door Release Lever >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7457
6. Disconnect the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable (A), then remove the opener (B). Take
care not to kink the cable.
7. Install the opener in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the opener cable is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid and the fuel fill door open properly and lock securely.
- Securely attach the outer end of the cable back to its original installed position on the trunk lid
opener/fuel fill door opener, then check the trunk lid latch operation: Make sure the trunk lid latch,
and the fuel fill door latch unlock when pulling and pushing the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener.
If necessary, readjust the position of the cable end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Hood Insulator / Pad > Component
Information > Service and Repair
1. Detach the clips with a clip remover. Release the hooks (A), then remove the hood insulator (B).
Take care not to scratch the hood.
2. Install the insulator in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the front grille cover. 2. Remove the clip (A), then disconnect and detach the hood latch
switch connector (B).
3. Remove the bolts, then remove the hood latch (C) from the body, and disconnect the hood
opener cable (D) from the hood latch. 4. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note
these items:
- Apply multipurpose grease to each location of the hood latch indicated by the arrows.
- Make sure the hood opener cable is connected properly and the hood latch switch connector is
plugged in properly.
NOTE:
- Kick panel
2. Disconnect the hood opener cable (A) from the hood latch (B), and remove the bolts (C), then
remove the hood release handle (D). Take care not
3. Detach the clips (E) with a clip remover, then release the hood opener cable from the clip (F).
Remove the grommet (G) from the body, then
remove the hood opener cable from the vehicle. Take care not to kink the cable.
4. Install the cable in the reverse order of removal, and replace any damaged or stress-whitened
clips with new ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Hood > Hood Switch / Sensor > Hood
Sensor/Switch (For Alarm) > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Area
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
2. Remove the trunk lid weatherstrip near the trunk rear trim panel. 3. Detach the clips, and release
the hooks (A) by pulling the trunk rear trim panel (B) up, then remove it.
4. Remove the clips, then remove the trunk front trim panel (A) from the trunk compartment.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim
Panel > Component Information > Service and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Area > Page 7489
5. Remove the clips (A, B), then remove the trunk side trim panel (C). Release the wire harness (D)
from the slit (E) in the trim panel.
7. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Trunk / Liftgate Interior Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Trunk Lid
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE:
- Put on gloves to protect your hands.
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Remove the clips from both trunk lid hinge covers (A), then remove the covers.
2. Remove the clips (A, B), then remove the trunk lid trim (C).
3. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clips are damaged or
stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Trunk / Liftgate Latch: Service and Repair
1. Remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod from the lock cylinder. 3. Disconnect
the trunk lid opener cable (A), and disconnect trunk lid latch switch connector (B). Take care not to
bend the opener cable.
5. Pull the trunk lid latch (A) out, and disconnect the cylinder rod (B) from the trunk lid latch. Take
care not to bend the cylinder rod.
6. Install the latch in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
- Securely attach the outer end of the cable (A) back to its original installed position on the trunk lid
latch, then check the trunk lid latch operation: Make sure the trunk lid latch unlock when pulling the
trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener. If necessary, readjust the position of the cable end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release
Cable > Component Information > Service and Repair
NOTE:
2. Pull the carpet back as needed. 3. Release the opener cable (A) from the clips (B). Remove the
cushion tape (C).
4. While pinching the hooks (A) from inside the vehicle, remove the grommet (B) from the body.
5. Release the hook (A), then remove the grommet (B) from the fuel fill door latch (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Latch Release
Cable > Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7498
6. Remove the fuel fill door opener cable from inside the body. 7. Detach the opener cable junction
box (A) from the body.
8. Disconnect the trunk lid opener cable (B) from the trunk lid latch (C). 9. Release the trunk lid
opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the clips.
10. Remove the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable from the vehicle. Take care not to kink
the cable. 11. Install the opener cable in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Align the marks (A) on the opener cable (B) with the cable clips (C) as shown.
1. Remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and if equipped, disconnect the
cylinder switch connector (B).
4. Remove the rear license trim. 5. Remove the bolt securing the lock cylinder (A).
6. Turn the lock cylinder (A) to release the hook (B) from the trunk lid (C), then remove the lock
cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7503
7. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (if equipped) and the cylinder rod
is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Release Lever
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Trunk / Liftgate Release Lever: Service and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Pry out the bottom edge of the front side cap (A) at the notch with the trim tool to detach the
hooks (B), and release the hooks (C), then remove the
2. Remove the opener lock cylinder (E), and loose the bolt. 3. Remove the screw securing the front
door sill trim (A) and the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener.
4. Remove the front door sill trim. 5. Remove the bolt, then remove the trunk lid opener/ fuel fill
door opener (A) from the bolt (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Release Lever
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 7507
6. Disconnect the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener cable (A), then remove the opener (B). Take
care not to kink the cable.
7. Install the opener in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the opener cable is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid and the fuel fill door open properly and lock securely.
- Securely attach the outer end of the cable back to its original installed position on the trunk lid
opener/fuel fill door opener, then check the trunk lid latch operation: Make sure the trunk lid latch,
and the fuel fill door latch unlock when pulling and pushing the trunk lid opener/fuel fill door opener.
If necessary, readjust the position of the cable end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Solenoid >
Component Information > Locations
1. Remove the torsion bars (A) from the torsion bar center clip (B).
2. Put on gloves to protect your hands. Remove the torsion bars with the torsion bar assembly tool
from both trunk lid hinges. First remove the left
torsion bar (A), then remove the right torsion bar (B).
3. Remove the torsion bar center clip (A) from the body.
4. Install the torsion bars in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- The shapes of the right torsion bar (A) and the left torsion bar (B) are shown. Install the torsion
bars properly.
- Adjust the torsion bars forward or rearward with the torsion bar assembly tool.
- Positions where each torsion bar was installed in the factory are following: -
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Doors, Hood and Trunk > Trunk / Liftgate > Trunk / Liftgate Stop >
Component Information > Service and Repair
1. Remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Detach the clips (A) by pushing it from the hole in the trunk lid (B),
then remove the trunk lid cushion (C). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
2. Apply clear weatherstrip sealant (B) into the channel of the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way
around. 3. Locate the painted alignment mark (C or D) on the trunk lid weatherstrip. Align the
painted mark in the center of the trunk lid opening, and install
the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no
wrinkles in the weatherstrip.
Emblem/Sticker Replacement
NOTE: When removing the emblems/sticker, take care not to scratch the body.
1. To remove the front "H" emblem, remove the front grille. 2. Clean the body surface with a
sponge dampened in isopropyl alcohol. After cleaning, keep oil, grease, and water from getting on
the surface. 3. Apply the emblem/sticker where shown. When installing the PZEV sticker on the
inside surface of the left rear door quarter glass, align the sticker
with the edge of the glass mark as shown, then press the sticker into place, and remove the
application tape.
4. After installing the front "H" emblem, reinstall the front grille.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Exterior Moulding / Trim > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information >
Service and Repair
Cowl Moulding / Trim: Service and Repair
1. Turn on the wiper switch, and move the windshield wiper arms 90°. 2. Remove the center cowl
cover (A).
1. Remove the hood rear seal (B) by pulling it out. 2. Remove the clips (C). 3. Release three front
hooks (D) from the edge of the under-cowl panel (E). 4. Detach the clips (F, G) by carefully pulling
the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (H). Take care not to scratch the body.
3. Disconnect the windshield washer tube (I). 4. If necessary, remove the bolts (A, B), then remove
the under-cowl panel (C).
6. Detach the clips by carefully pulling the side cowl cover (A) up, then remove the cover by
releasing the hooks (B) from the front fender. Take care
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Service and Repair > Page 7532
not to scratch the body. Repeat this step for the other side cowl cover, and disconnect the
windshield washer tube.
7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Remove the bolt securing the trunk lid lock cylinder. 3. Detach the
clips by pushing it from the hole in the trunk lid (A), then remove the rear license trim (B). Take care
not to scratch the trunk lid.
4. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and check if the clips are damaged or
stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Fender > Front Fender Liner > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Inner Fender Replacement
Front Fender Liner: Service and Repair Front Inner Fender Replacement
1. On the back of the wheel arch, remove the screws (B), and remove the front splash guard (C)
(Canada models). 2. From under the front bumper (D), remove the clips (E) securing the front
bumper, the splash shield (F), and front inner fender. 3. From the wheel arch, remove the clips (G,
H, I) securing the front inner fender (and the splash shield) to the body. 4. Release the hook (J) of
the splash shield, then remove the front inner fender.
NOTE: To remove the clips E and G, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (K) on its head.
2. Install the inner fender in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Push the clips and the hooks into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Fender > Front Fender Liner > System Information > Service and Repair >
Front Inner Fender Replacement > Page 7541
Front Fender Liner: Service and Repair Front Fender Fairing Replacement
1. Remove the front inner fender as needed. 2. From the wheel arch, remove the clips.
3. Open the front door. Detach the hooks (A) securing the front fender fairing (B).
5. Install the fender fairing in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
2-door
4. Detach the floor wire harness clips (A). 5. Remove the bolts (B) and nuts (C), then remove the
middle cross-member gusset (D).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 7547
6. Install the gusset in the reverse order of removal. When installing the mounting bolts for the
middle cross-member gusset (A), torque the mounting
hardware in the sequence shown. If the mounting bolts are not torqued in this sequence, damage
to the quarter panel will occur.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Frame > Cross-Member > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Middle Cross-Member Gusset Replacement > Page 7548
Cross-Member: Service and Repair Rear Floor Upper Cross-Member Gusset Replacement
Structural Brace: Service and Repair Rear Floor Upper Cross-Member Gusset Replacement
Subframe Replacement
NOTE:
- After loosening the subframe mounting bolts, be sure to replace them with new ones.
- When installing, align both installation reference holes in the subframe with both reference holes
in the body using a screwdriver or tapered punch as a guide.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Grille > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Grille
Replacement
1. Remove the front bumper. 2. Remove the nuts, and release the hooks (A), then remove the front
grille (B) from the front bumper (C).
3. If necessary, remove the screw, and release the hooks, then remove the front emblem base (A)
from the front grille molding (B).
4. If emblem (C) replacement is necessary, refer to emblem/sticker replacement. 5. Install the grille
in the reverse order of removal.
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Replacement > Page 7561
NOTE:
- When prying with a flat-tip screwdriver, wrap it with protective tape to prevent damage.
1. Remove the front fender trim from both sides. 2. Remove the clips by carefully pulling the front
grille cover (A) up, then remove the cover by releasing the front edge of the cover from the grille
NOTE: To remove the clips, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (C) on its head.
3. Install the covers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Carpet Replacement
Special Tools Required
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Center console
2. Push the knob (A) back to release the hooks (B), then pull up the accelerator pedal (C).
1. Remove the lower clip (B) from the stud bolt (C) with a 6 mm hexagon socket wrench. 2.
Remove the upper clip (D) from the stud bolt with a flat-tip screwdriver.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Service and
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4. Disconnect the SRS unit connector A, and detach the wire harness clips (B). Using a TORX T30
bit, remove the ground bolt (C).
5. Remove the bolts (A, B), then remove the center pipe extension (C).
7. Disconnect the parking brake cables from the equalizer. 8. Remove the floor mat holders (A)
from the driver's side.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Carpet > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7567
9. Remove the clips.
10. Release the Velcro fasteners (A), then pull the carpet (B) out from under the dashboard.
11. Pull the seat harnesses (C) out through the hole in the carpet, then remove the carpet. 12.
Install the carpet in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the seat harnesses and the parking brake cables are routed correctly.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Push the Velcro fasteners and the clips into place securely.
- Push the accelerator pedal hooks into place securely, and after installing, make sure the
accelerator pedal does not come off the floor by pulling it up.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Console Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7574
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7578
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7580
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7581
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7582
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7583
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7587
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7589
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7590
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7591
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7592
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7593
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7594
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7595
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7596
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7597
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7599
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7600
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7601
Console Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 114-0
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7602
Diagram 114-1
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7603
Diagram 114-2
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7604
Diagram 114-3
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Console > Console Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7605
Diagram 114-4
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before servicing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when doing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) or the
battery cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you
have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write
down the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock (without navigation).
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7610
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C).
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
these things: -
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for
3 minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the
connectors from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned to LOCK (0).
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection after Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7612
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- Do not use any silicone based cleaners or lubricants on any SRS connectors or terminals.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7613
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7614
Opening the SRS Unit Shorting Connectors for Diagnosis
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electrical contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7615
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid. Do not spray
steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait
for 3 minutes before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7616
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7617
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the
seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 7618
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B
(28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Glove Compartment > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Glove Box Removal/Installation
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and -related parts.
2. While holding the glove box (A), release the glove box stops (B) on each side of the dashboard
by pushing them in, then remove the glove box.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE: Take care not to scratch the dashboard and related parts.
1. While holding the glove box, release the glove box stops on each side of the dashboard by
pushing them in, then let the glove box hang down. 2. Remove the screws, then remove the glove
box striker (A).
Headliner Removal/Installation
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Put on gloves to protect your hands.
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Make sure you have the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if
equipped), then write down the audio presets. 2. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery,
then wait for 3 minutes before starting work. 3. Remove these items:
- Ceiling light
4. From both sides, release the tabs (A) of the sunvisor cap (B) from the bracket (C).
5. Remove the sunvisor cap (A) from the bracket (B). Turn the cap, and remove it.
1. Unhook the sunvisor from the holder (B). 2. Remove the screws with a TORX T25 bit. 3.
Remove the sunvisor from the body.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7627
7. Push the hook (A) with a flat-tip screwdriver, and turn the holder (B) 90°, then pull it out.
1. Remove the lenses (B). 2. Remove the bolts. 3. If equipped, release the four tabs (C), then pull
out the navigation microphone (D). 4. Disconnect the front individual map light connector (E). If
equipped, disconnect the navigation microphone connector (F).
9. Detach the harness clips (A) from the front pillar (B), and disconnect the roof wire harness
connector (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7628
10. Remove the center console. 11. Slide both front seats all the way back, and recline the
seat-backs fully. 12. Remove the bolts securing the parking brake base frame (A), and lay it down
as needed.
1. Remove the front door opening seals (B), and the rear door opening seals (C) from each roof
portion. 2. With the help of an assistant, detach the rear clips by pulling the rear portion of the
headliner down.
14. Lower the front of the headliner below the steering wheel. Rotate the liner, and pull it along with
the roof wire harness (D) out through the
passenger's front door. Do not bend the liner. Bending the liner will crease and damage it.
15. If necessary, remove the cushion tape (A, B) fastening the interior wire harness (C) to the
headliner (D), then remove them from the headliner.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7629
16. If necessary, remove the side curtain airbag mounting bolt (A) and the grab handle bracket
mounting bolts (B), then remove the grab handle
17. Install the headliner in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the headliner and the removed trim pieces with
new ones.
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
removed pieces and replace them if they have any of these types of damage: -
- Any damages around the grab handle holes (C) or sunvisor holes in the headliner
- Any clip mounts (H) which have come off the headliner
- When installing the grab handle, push on the handle against the bracket (I) until the clips (J) snap
into place securely.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Check that both sides of the headliner are securely attached to the trim.
- When reinstalling the headliner through the front passenger's door opening, be careful not to fold
or bend it. Also, be careful not to scratch the body.
- If the IMA battery level gauge (BAT) displays no segments, start the engine, and hold it between
3,500 rpm and 4,000 rpm without load (in Park or Neutral) until the BAT displays at least three
segments.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Headliner > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7630
- Enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system and the navigation system (if equipped), then enter
the audio presets.
- Check for any DTCs that may have been set during repairs, and clear them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Passenger Assist Handle > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Passenger Assist Handle: Service and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE: Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying
components.
1. Lower the grab handle (A), then pull out the stops (B).
2. While pinching the clips (A), release the hooks (B), then remove the grab handle (C).
3. Remove all of the clips (A) with a pair of pliers by pinching its hooks.
4. If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the grab handle with a new one.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Passenger Assist Handle > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Page 7634
5. If the side curtain airbag has not deployed, to prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying
improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
removed pieces and replace them if they have any of these types of damage: -
6. Install the clips (A) to the grab handle (B), then install the stops (C) fully into the clips.
7. Position the grab handle (A) on the bracket (B), and push on the grab handle until the clips (C)
snap into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Rear Shelf > Component Information > Service
and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
Rear Shelf
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend or scratch the rear shelf and trim.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Rear seat-back
2. From the trunk compartment, disconnect the high mount brake light connector (A).
3. From the trunk compartment, release the six white clips by tapping on them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Rear Shelf > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7638
4. Lift the rear shelf (A) upward to detach the remaining four clips, and release the hook (B) from
the rear shelf. Release the pin (C) from the holes
on the body.
5. Release each tether anchor striker (D) out through the hole in the rear shelf, and pull both rear
seat belts (E) and rear center seat belt (F) out
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Rear Shelf > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7639
through the slits (G) in the rear shelf.
6. Install the shelf in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- When installing the rear shelf, slip the rear seat belt through the slit and the rear center seat belt
into the lid opening in the rear shelf.
- Make sure the high mount brake light connector is connected securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Scuff Plate > Component Information > Service
and Repair
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Driver's side: Remove the footrest. 2. Driver's side: Remove the front side cap from the front
door sill trim, and remove the opener lock cylinder and screw. 3. Detach the hooks (A) and the tabs
(B) from the kick panel (C) and the B-pillar lower trim (D), and pull the front door sill trim (E) up by
hand to
5. Pull the driver's kick panel (A) or the passenger's kick panel (B) back by hand to detach the clips
(C, D), then remove them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Scuff Plate > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7644
6. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Detach the hook (A) and the tab (B) from the B-pillar lower trim (C), and pull the rear door sill
trim (D) up by hand to detach the clips, then
remove it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Scuff Plate > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7645
2. Pull the rear seat cushion (A) up to release the hook (B). While pulling the cushion up, detach
the clips and remove the rear door sill trim (C) from
3. Pull out the rear door opening seal (A) from the trim hooks (B) and around the rear door opening
flange, then remove the seal.
4. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Scuff Plate > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7646
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Sun Visor: Customer Interest Interior - Sun Visor Comes Apart/Splits When Moved
08-023
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, models were added and VIN ranges were changed.
PROBLEM
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Sun Visor > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Sun Visor: > 08-023 > Oct > 10 > Interior - Sun Visor Comes Apart/Splits When
Moved > Page 7655
PARTS INFORMATION
Operation Number: 840100 (left sunvisor) 840130 (right sunvisor) 8401B1 (both visors)
Flat Rate Time: 0.1 hour (per sunvisor)
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to steps 3 thru 5 on page 20-133 of the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword HEADLINER, select Headliner Removal/Installation from the list, and do
only steps 3 thru 5 of that procedure.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Sun Visor > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Visor: > 08-023 > Oct > 10 > Interior - Sun Visor Comes
Apart/Splits When Moved
Sun Visor: All Technical Service Bulletins Interior - Sun Visor Comes Apart/Splits When Moved
08-023
*REVISION SUMMARY
^ Under VEHICLES AFFECTED, models were added and VIN ranges were changed.
PROBLEM
VEHICLES AFFECTED
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Sun Visor > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Sun Visor: > 08-023 > Oct > 10 > Interior - Sun Visor Comes
Apart/Splits When Moved > Page 7661
PARTS INFORMATION
Operation Number: 840100 (left sunvisor) 840130 (right sunvisor) 8401B1 (both visors)
Flat Rate Time: 0.1 hour (per sunvisor)
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Refer to steps 3 thru 5 on page 20-133 of the 2006-2010 Civic Service Manual, or
^ Online, enter keyword HEADLINER, select Headliner Removal/Installation from the list, and do
only steps 3 thru 5 of that procedure.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas
Trim Panel: Service and Repair Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
A-Pillar Trim
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Follow the A-pillar trim installation procedure carefully; improper installation could cause the side
curtain airbag to deploy improperly and possibly cause injury.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- The upper clip in the A-pillar trim (A) consists of a grommet (B) and a pin (C). The grommet
expanded with the pin secures it to the body panel (D). The projections (E) on the pin is broken
during removal, so the clip must be replaced with a new one when the trim is reinstalled.
1. Pull the front door opening seal away from the A-pillar as needed. 2. Hit the upper clip in the
A-pillar trim (A) with a rubber mallet. The clip is under the "SIDE CURTAIN AIRBAG" mark (B).
Hitting the clip
breaks the projections (C) on the pin (D) and pushes it into the grommet (E) against the body (F).
The grommet becomes narrower.
NOTE: The clip must be replaced with a new one when the A-pillar trim is reinstalled.
3. Pull the front of the A-pillar trim (A) back by hand to remove the upper clip (B) from the body (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7666
4. Pull the A-pillar trim (A) by hand to detach the clips. Pull the trim up from the dashboard (B), then
remove it.
5. If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the A-pillar trim and all the clips on the trim with
new ones. 6. If the side curtain airbag has not deployed, remove the upper clip (A) from the
removed A-pillar trim (B) and discard it. Then check the trim:
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
the A-pillar trim and replace it if it has any of these types of damage: -
8. Check the overlap between the headliner and A-pillar trim, and if necessary, adjust it. 9.
Carefully install a new upper clip (A) to the A-pillar trim (B). Be sure that the grommet (C) is nearest
to the top of the pin (D) as shown.
1. Insert the bottom of the trim into the dashboard (B). 2. Place the trim over the A-pillar (C), and fit
its upper clip (D), and lower clips into the holes (E)in the A-pillar, then lightly push the trim into
place.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7668
- Make sure the side curtain airbag isn't tucked down under the clips and ribs.
- Push lightly on the upper clip. If you push too hard, the clip will be damaged, and it will not hold
the trim properly.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Put on gloves to protect your hands.
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
2. Slide the front seat forward fully. 3. Remove the B-pillar lower trim (A).
1. Pull the upper portion of the trim back to release the upper hooks (B). 2. Detach the lower clips
by pulling the bottom of the trim back by hand.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7669
4. Remove the front seat belt lower anchor. 5. Pull the bottom of the B-pillar upper trim (A) back by
hand to detach the lower hooks (B).
6. Detach the upper clip by pulling the top of the B-pillar upper trim (A). Pull the trim down to
release the upper hooks (B) from the side curtain
7. Pass the front seat belt (A) lower anchor out through a hole in the slider (B), then remove the
B-pillar upper trim (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7670
8. Remove the slider (A) from the B-pillar upper trim (B).
9. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips (A) are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
- If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the B-pillar upper and lower trim and all the clips
on the trim with new ones.
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
the trim and replace it if it has any of these types of damage: -
Any cracks or deformations in the B-pillar upper trim (B) and the upper hooks (C), and any
stress-whitening in the upper part of the trim
- Any cracks or deformations in the B-pillar lower trim (D), and any breakages in the part (E) fitted
with the B-pillar upper trim
- Make sure the top of the trim overlaps with the headliner correctly.
- Make sure the pin (G) on the front seat belt shoulder anchor adjuster (H) and the hole (I) on the
back of the slider are engaged when installing the B-pillar upper trim.
- Make sure the trim hook is installed into the side curtain airbag B-pillar bracket securely.
- Before installing the anchor bolt, make sure there are no twists or kinks in the seat belt.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7671
Slider engagement with shoulder anchor adjuster
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
C-Pillar Trim
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
NOTE:
- Follow the C-pillar trim installation procedure carefully; improper installation could cause the side
curtain airbag to deploy improperly and possibly cause injury.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- The front clip in the C-pillar trim (A) consists of a grommet (B) and a pin (C). The grommet
expanded with the pin secures it to the body panel (D). The projections (E) on the pin is broken
during removal, so the clip must be replaced with a new one when the trim is reinstalled.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7672
1. Remove these items:
- Rear seat-back
2. Hit the front clip in the C-pillar trim (A) with a rubber mallet. The clip is near the triangle mark (B).
Hitting the clip breaks the projections (C) on
the pin (D) and pushes it into the grommet (E) against the body (F). The grommet becomes
narrower.
NOTE: The front clip must be replaced with a new when the C-pillar trim is reinstalled.
3. Pull the front of the C-pillar trim (A) back by hand to remove the front clip (B) from the body (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7673
4. Pull the C-pillar trim (A) by hand to detach the clips, then pull the trim up from the rear shelf (B).
5. If the side curtain airbag has deployed, replace the C-pillar trim and all the clips on the trim with
new ones. 6. If the side curtain airbag has not deployed, remove the front clip (A) from the removed
C-pillar trim (B) and discard it. Then check the trim:
- To prevent the side curtain airbags from deploying improperly and possibly causing injury, inspect
the C-pillar trim and replace it if it has any of these types of damage: -
- Check if the clips (E) are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new
ones.
8. Check the overlap between the headliner and C-pillar trim, and if necessary, adjust it. 9.
Carefully reinstall the front clip (A) to the C-pillar trim (B). Be sure that the grommet (C) is nearest
to the top of the pin (D) as shown.
1. Insert the bottom of the trim into the rear shelf (B). 2. Place the trim over the C-pillar (C), and fit
its front clip (D) and rear clips into holes in the C-pillar, then lightly push the trim into place.
NOTE:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7675
- Make sure the side curtain airbag isn't tucked down under the clips and ribs.
- Push lightly on the front clip. If you push too hard, the clip will be damaged, and it will not hold the
trim properly.
11. Reinstall the rear door opening seal. 12. Reinstall the rear seat-back and rear seat cushion.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7676
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Driver's side: Remove the footrest. 2. Driver's side: Remove the front side cap from the front
door sill trim, and remove the opener lock cylinder and screw. 3. Detach the hooks (A) and the tabs
(B) from the kick panel (C) and the B-pillar lower trim (D), and pull the front door sill trim (E) up by
hand to
5. Pull the driver's kick panel (A) or the passenger's kick panel (B) back by hand to detach the clips
(C, D), then remove them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7678
6. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
NOTE:
- Take care not to bend or scratch the trim and the panels.
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
1. Detach the hook (A) and the tab (B) from the B-pillar lower trim (C), and pull the rear door sill
trim (D) up by hand to detach the clips, then
remove it.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Interior Moulding / Trim > Trim Panel > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Trim Removal/Installation - Pillar Areas > Page 7679
2. Pull the rear seat cushion (A) up to release the hook (B). While pulling the cushion up, detach
the clips and remove the rear door sill trim (C) from
3. Pull out the rear door opening seal (A) from the trim hooks (B) and around the rear door opening
flange, then remove the seal.
4. Install the trim in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Disconnect the cylinder rod (A), and if equipped, disconnect the
cylinder switch connector (B).
4. Remove the rear license trim. 5. Remove the bolt securing the lock cylinder (A).
6. Turn the lock cylinder (A) to release the hook (B) from the trunk lid (C), then remove the lock
cylinder.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Locks > Trunk / Liftgate Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7710
7. Install the lock cylinder in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the cylinder switch connector is plugged in properly (if equipped) and the cylinder rod
is connected properly.
- Make sure the trunk lid opens properly and locks securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Heated Element: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7716
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7717
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7719
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7720
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7721
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7722
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7723
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7724
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7725
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7726
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7730
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7732
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7733
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7734
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7735
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7736
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7737
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7738
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7739
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7740
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7741
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7742
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7743
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7744
Heated Element: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 64-0
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7745
Diagram 64-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Element, Mirror > Component Information > Diagrams >
Page 7746
Heated Element: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is supplied at all times through fuse 8 (in the under-hood fuse/relay box) to the rear
window defogger relay contacts. With the ignition switch in ON (II), battery voltage is supplied
through fuse 36 (in the under-dash fuse/relay box) to the rear window defogger relay coil and to the
climate control unit.
When the rear window defogger switch (in the climate control unit) is pressed, the climate control
unit provides ground for the rear window defogger relay coil, which energizes the relay. Battery
voltage is supplied to the rear window defogger through the energized relay.
The rear window defogger is turned off by pressing the rear window defogger switch a second time
or by turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
With the ignition switch in ON (II), battery voltage is supplied through fuse 36 (in the under-hood
fuse/relay box) to the power mirror defoggers relay and to the climate control unit.
When the power mirror defoggers switch (in the climate control unit) is pressed, the climate control
unit provides ground for the power mirror defoggers relay coil, which energizes the relay. Battery
voltage is supplied to both mirror defoggers through the energized relay.
The power mirror defoggers are turned off by pressing the power mirror defoggers switch a second
time or by turning the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Heated Mirror Relay > Component Information > Locations
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Motor > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Power Mirror Motor: Service and Repair
1. Remove the mirror holder. 2. Remove the power mirror. 3. Disconnect the 6P (USA models) or
8P (Canada models) connector from the mirror. 4. With power mirror defogger:
Disassemble the power mirror 8P connector (A), and remove the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals from it.
6. Record the terminal locations and wire colors. 7. Cut the wire harness with wire cutters, and
remove the gasket. 8. Remove the three screws, and separate the mirror housing (A) from the
bracket (B).
11. Install the actuator, bracket, harness clip, and gasket in the reverse order of removal. 12. Insert
the new actuator terminals into the connector in the original arrangement.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Motor > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Page 7756
13. Apply tape to seal the intersection of the wire harness and the gasket. 14. Reassemble in the
reverse order of disassembly. Be careful not to break the mirror when reinstalling it to the actuator.
15. Reinstall the mirror assembly on the door. 16. Operate the power mirror to ensure smooth
operation.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Mirrors > Power Mirror Switch > Component Information > Locations
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
10-002
BACKGROUND
American Honda, its factories, and its suppliers are constantly striving to increase the quality,
durability, and reliability of Honda vehicles. In the interest of making such improvements, as of
March 2009, American Honda requires that digital photographs be taken of paint defects submitted
for warranty repair.
Examples of paint defects include mismatched colors, dirt in the paint, gloss issues, paint runs,
"hiding" (thin paint), etc. Photos of these defects help provide valuable product information to the
factory for quicker analysis and development of countermeasures.
^ Store warranty paint claim photos for 12 months, in accordance with the document retention
policy outlined in the current Service Operations Manual.
NOTE:
A warranty claim may be subject to debit if the photos submitted do not adequately show the
customer's paint complaint.
^ Before photographing the paint defect, wash and completely dry the vehicle. Dirt, dust, and water
spots visible in the photos may cover the paint defects and make them difficult to diagnose.
^ To properly document each warranty paint repair claim, four to five photos are required. These
photos must be taken using a digital camera with "macro" focusing capabilities to provide detailed,
in-focus close-ups.
^ For maximum clarity, the file size for each photo must be between 500 kb and 2,000 kb (2 mb).
ZIP-compressed files are not acceptable.
^ Cell phone photos are not acceptable because of the phone's lack of focusing capability.
^ Before committing to paint repair, ensure that the photos you've taken are clear and in focus, and
meet the standards and required number and type of photos for warranty claim submittal.
^ It's best to shoot multiples of each required shot; this gives you the widest choice of photos to
choose from. To free up hard drive space after you've chosen your four or five best shots, delete
the extra photos.
PAINT DEFECT PREPARATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7769
^ Before taking photos, outline the paint defect with a wide-tip Sharpie marker pen, a crayon, a
grease pencil, masking tape, or stick-on paper notes. The marking material must contrast with the
color of the paint, and should clearly identify the paint defect area.
^ If the paint defect extends across body panels, run the marking material across the panels to
show the location and full extent of the paint defect.
^ Alternatively, if you have a computer program that allows you to draw on digital photographs, you
can use that to outline the defect area(s) on your photos.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7770
TIPS FOR TAKING HIGH-QUALITY PAINT DEFECT PHOTOS
Automotive paint has evolved into an elaborate combination of color pigments, solid metallic flakes,
pearl (coated mica), and transparent toners in the clear coat that give the paint its depth, color, and
gloss.
As a result, some paint defects photograph better outdoors, while others do so indoors. To help
decide where to photograph the defect, first determine whether the customer complaint is for a
surface paint defect, or if the defect is below the paint's surface. As a general rule:
^ Surface paint defects photograph better inside a shop with artificial light, such as that produced
by overhead fluorescent tubes. While viewing the vehicle through the camera's viewfinder or LCD
screen, move the camera to position the fluorescent light's reflections over and around the defect,
carefully watching for distortions in the light that best reveal the surface defect.
^ Most paint defects photograph better with the flash off, the exception being dirt or fingerprints
embedded in the paint, which may be highlighted by the flash's reflection. To determine which
method will provide the best shots, take one shot with the flash on, and another with it off, then
compare the two.
NOTE:
Photographing with the flash off might extend the shutter time, and may require the camera to be
stabilized by mounting it on a tripod, or by holding it against something rigid.
^ Paint defects under the clear coat surface photograph better outside in natural light, with the sun
low in the sky, behind the photographer, and facing the defect. The hours between 8-11 a.m. and
2-6 p.m. usually provide the best light to photograph defects within the paint, as the sunlight at
these times allows you to see through the clear coat into the paint.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7771
^ When shooting a defect under the surface, first look at it straight-on, then move to look at the
defect from multiple angles, carefully watching for the best light that reveals the defect, then snap
that view of the defect with your camera. If needed, you may have to reposition the vehicle in
relation to its light source to clearly reveal and photograph the paint defect.
To properly document each warranty paint repair claim, four to five photos must be taken, as
described below:
Photo One: Take a readable, in-focus shot of the vehicle's barcoded VIN sticker on the driver's side
doorjamb.
Note:
If you shoot this using your camera's flash, make sure the flash's reflection does not reduce the
VIN sticker's readability.
Photo Two: Take an orientation shot of the entire paint defect area, with the lens zoomed out wide
enough to show the defect's location in relation to other body parts, such as door handles,
windshield, headlights, bumper, side windows, wheel, etc.
Photos Three and Four: Take the third shot closer to the defect and from a different angle, to add
more detail to the warranty repair claim. Then, if needed to further support the claim, take a fourth
shot from another angle to make sure that the defect and/or its full extent are completely
documented.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7772
Photo Five: Take the last required shot as a sharply focused macro close-up, about 4 inches (100
mm) from the defect, showing exactly what the paint defect is. For example, if the defect is a
mismatch in color, take a macro close-up of the mismatched panel and the correct color body panel
together in the same shot.
Note:
To achieve a clear, close-up photo at this distance, you may have to manually focus the camera.
^ it lacks focus, detail, and marking materials that identify the area and extent of the paint defect,
as specified in this service bulletin and per warranty claim submittal standards.
While the Picture Manager program cannot correct blurry, out-of-focus pictures, it can adjust
pictures for brightness, contrast, and color, helping to reveal details. It can also crop, resize, or
compress digital photo files so that they can be e-mailed for warranty claim consideration.
^ To use this program on your PC, select Start > Programs > Microsoft Office > Microsoft Office
Tools > Microsoft Office Picture Manager.
^ If the above instruction does not lead you to the Picture Manager program, select Start > Search.
Under Search for Folders or Files, type "Picture Manager" in the Search window, then click on
Search Now.
^ Once Microsoft Picture Manager is open, you can create a shortcut to it on your computer's
desktop by clicking on Add Picture Shortcut, which is
In Picture Manager, select Edit/Edit Pictures > Edit Using These Tools/Brightness and Contrast.
Use the sliding scales to adjust the photo to the brightness and contrast that best reveal the fault.
If the photo file size exceeds 2,000 kb (2 mb), it cannot be accepted by the American Honda
Warranty department.
To reduce a picture's file size in Picture Manager, select Edit/Edit Pictures > Change Picture
Size/Resize Settings > Predefined Width x Height. Start with Document - Small (800x600 px), and
see if this reduces the picture file size to below 2,000 kb (2 mb).
NOTE:
Batches of paint defect photos can be resized in a single operation by doing this:
^ Select all shots you want converted from the thumbnail photos stored in your paint defect
warranty claim folder.
^ Click on Resize.
^ Choose a resolution size, such as 800x600 px, from Predefined Width x Height.
^ Click on OK.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7775
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Paint - Defect Warranty Claim Information > Page 7776
07-044
August 3, 2007
NOTE:
All pearl and metallic colors have clear coat. Depending on the factory, some solid colors have a
clear coat, and some do not.
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7779
Paint: Locations
Coating Diagram (4-door)
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 7780
Paint Information
WARNING: Most paints contain substances that are harmful if inhaled or swallowed. Read the
paint label before opening the container.
The following precautions are important items in order to maintain a safe painting work area.
- Wear approved gloves and appropriate clothing when painting. Avoid contact with skin.
- If paint gets in your mouth or on your skin, rinse and wash thoroughly with water. If paint gets in
your eyes, flush with water and get prompt medical attention.
- After the painting work is finished, wash your face and gargle with water.
- Paint is flammable. Store it in a safe place, and keep it away from sparks, flames, or cigarettes.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Application and
ID > Color Chart Paint Specifications
Paint Code
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Description and
Operation > Paint Information
The 3-coat.3-bake (3C.3B) paint finish gives the Civic a deep gloss and stunning finish. This
information provides information on paint defect, repair, and refinishing. Throughout, the objective
is to explain in a simple yet comprehensive manner the basic items you should know about paint
repairs. Select the correct material for the defect and repaint or refinish in the correct manner as
described in this information.
Basic Rules for Repairing a Paint Finish To repair paint damage, always use the 2-part acrylic
urethane paints designated; polish and bake each of the three coats, as in production, to maintain
the original film thickness, and to assure the same quality as the original finish.
Pretreatment and electrodeposition In the pretreatment process, the entire body is degreased,
cleaned, and coated with zinc phosphate by dipping. After the body has been cleaned with pure
water, it is placed in an electrolytic bath of soluble primer (Cationic Electrodeposition). This
produces a thorough corrosion inhibiting coating on the inner surface and corners of the body,
pillars, sills, and panel joints. Chipping primer is then applied to the most susceptible areas.
Intermediate coat The intermediate coat is applied to the prepared surface to further protect against
damage.
Top coat Enamel paint and either polyester or acrylic resin paint are used in the top coat for higher
solidity, smoothness, brightness, and weather resistance.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Paint, Striping and Decals > Paint > System Information > Description and
Operation > Paint Information > Page 7788
The removal of paint and undercoating by stone chips immediately exposes metal to the
atmosphere, causing it to oxidize. The thickness of this oxidation increases if the process continues
unchecked. The soft chipping guard primer protects against damage due to the impact of such
objects.
- The soft chipping guard primer coat is applied over the E. D. (Electrostatically Deposited) primer.
It is followed by guide coating and top coating.
- The soft chipping guard primer produces a smooth surface when dry. It should be sprayed so the
thickness of the protective film is 20 microns.
- A soft chipping guard primer coat is then applied to the most susceptible area.
- Spray the primer surface (2-part urethane primer surfacer) on the soft chipping guard primer
coating areas when you replace parts using soft chipping guard primer coat.
Coating Procedures
WARNING:
NOTE: -
2. Air blowing/degreasing.
Use masking tape and paper to protect the related areas from overspray.
- Spray about 4 to 5 coats to get 20 microns of thickness. One coat deposits about 5 to 7 microns.
- Do not try to cover the surface with one heavy coat. Applying several thin coats is recommended.
- Mix the primer surfacer with the correct ratio of additive and solvent.
5. Drying.
After spraying primer surfacer, allow 7 to 10 minutes of drying time, then force dry it with infrared
lamps or an industrial dryer.
6. Polishing.
- Check that the primer surfacer has dried thoroughly, then sand the primer surfacer.
Use this chart to identify the type of relay, then do the test listed for it.
Five-terminal type
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals when battery positive terminal
is connected to the No. 5 terminal, and battery negative terminal is connected to the No. 3 terminal.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 4 terminals when power is disconnected.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Keyless Entry Module >
Component Information > Locations
NOTE: If the vehicle has been in a collision, always inspect the active head restraints, even if they
appear reusable, by doing the following procedure.
1. Push the head restraint (A) forward fully from the locked position to return the inside inertia lock
(B).
Inspection
3. Fold the seat-back forward, then recline the seat-back to the first lock position, and adjust the
head restraint to the highest position. 4. Apply masking tape on the top of the head restraint. 5.
Make marks (A) on both sides at 250 mm (9.84 in.) upward from the roots of the head restraint
frame (B) along the back of the head restraint (C)
6. Push the head restraint (A) forward, and check: With a scale, measure the level amount of the
head restraint movement. The head restraint should
move than 50 mm (2.0 in.) without resistance. If it is less than 50 mm (2.0 in.), or the head restraint
doesn't move smoothly, replace the seat-back frame assembly: -
Passenger's seat
- Driver's seat
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Head Rest > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Page 7804
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Power Seat Motor Position Sensor > Component Information >
Locations
Passenger's Seat
NOTE:
- If the side airbag has deployed, replace the seat frame and related parts with new ones.
3. Remove the clip, then remove the recline inner covers (A) from the seat frame (B), and remove
the module holder (C).
4. Remove the bolts, and release the seat cushion springs (A) from the hooks (B), then remove the
seat cushion frame (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Bottom > Seat Bottom Frame > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Page 7813
5. Remove the front seat weight sensors. 6. If necessary, remove the bushing (A, B) from the seat
cushion frame (C).
7. Install the new seat frame in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Driver's Seat
Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions:
NOTE:
- Apply multipurpose grease to the sliding portions and pivot portions of the seat tracks.
- If the side airbag has deployed, replace the seat frame and related parts with new ones.
3. Remove the clips, then remove the recline inner covers (A), the outer upper rail cover (B), the
inner upper rail cover (C) and the module holder
4. Install the new seat frame in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Make sure the driver's seat position sensor connector is plugged in properly.
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
- On the passenger's seat, do not touch the ODS sensor in the seat-back pad, and keep it away
from oil. Oil can corrode the sensor causing it to fail.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the head restraint. 3. From under the seat cushion, detach
the side airbag connector clip (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7819
4. Release the hooks (B) from the seat cushion frame spring (C). Remove the wire tie (D) and pull
the side airbag harness (E) out through slits (F) in
the seat cushion cover (G). Turn over the seat cushion cover, and release the hooks (H).
5. Detach the clips and hooks (A) by pulling the bottom of the back cover (B) back, then gently pull
down the cover to release the hooks (C) from the
7. Detach the harness clip (A), and pull the side airbag harness (B) out through the harness hole
(C) in the seat-back cover and seat frame.
8. Remove the side airbag. 9. Release the hook strips (A), then loosen the seat-back cover (B).
Driver's seat is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
10. Turn over the reinforcing cloth (A), then release the hooks (B) from the module holder (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7821
11. Passenger's seat: Disconnect the ODS sensor connectors (A) and the ODS unit subharness
connector (B) from the ODS unit (C), and pull them in
through the hole in the seat frame. Pull the ODS unit subharness (D) out through the harness hole
(E) in the seat-back cover (F). Detach the harness clips (G), and remove the wire tie (H).
12. Pinch the tabs on the ends of the head restraint guides (A), and remove them from the
seat-back.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7822
13. Remove the seat-back cover/pad (A) from the seat (B).
14. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then
remove the seat-back cover.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7823
15. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal/ and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, hooks, and hook strips.
- Before installing the side airbag (B), make sure the reinforcing cloth (C) is fixed on the seat-back
frame (D) securely.
- Make sure the side airbag harness and the ODS unit subharness (passenger's seat) are routed
properly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7824
Seat Cover: Service and Repair Front Seat Cushion Cover Replacement
KTC trim tool set SOJATP2014 * * Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment Program.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
- Check the operation of the driver's seat position sensor after any of these actions: -
NOTE:
- Use the appropriate tool from the KTC trim tool set to avoid damage when prying components.
- Take care not to tear the seams of damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the front seat. 2. Remove the front seat belt buckle. 3. Pull back the cap (A) to release
the hooks (B), and remove the screws, then remove the height adjuster handle (C).
4. Remove the recline cover (A).
1. Remove the recline knob (B) and the screw. 2. Gently pull out the cover, then detach the clip,
and release the hooks (C).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7825
5. Gently pull out the center cover (A), then detach the clip, and release the hooks (B). Driver's seat
is shown; passenger's seat is similar.
6. From under the seat cushion, detach the side airbag connector clip (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7826
7. Release the hooks (B) from the seat cushion frame spring (C). Remove the wire tie (D) and pull
the side airbag harness (E) out through slits (F) in
the seat cushion cover (G). Turn over the seat cushion cover, and release the hooks (H).
8. Pull the side airbag harness (A) out through the loop (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7827
9. Release the hook strips (A, B) from the seat frame.
10. Release the hook (A) from under the seat cushion.
11. Remove the seat cushion cover/pad (A) from the seat frame (B).
12. Release the hooks (A) from under the seat cushion (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7828
13. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), then
remove the seat-back cover.
14. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips, the hooks, and the hook strips.
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the seat-back. 2. Remove the screw, then remove the center belt guide (A).
3. From the back of the seat-back, pass four retainers (A) through the slots in the seat-back pad,
and release all the clips (B), and fold back the
4. Pull out the head restraint guides (A) while pinching the end of the guides, and remove them.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7830
5. Pull back the edge of the seat-back cover (A) all the way around, release the clips (BK and
release the hooks (C) of the horizontal wires (D) from
the vertical wires (E) on the pad, then remove the seat-back cover.
6. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat-back cover, make sure the material is stretched evenly
over the pad before securing the clips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with a commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7831
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Seats > Seat Cover > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Seat-Back Cover Replacement > Page 7832
Seat Cover: Service and Repair Rear Seat Cushion Cover Replacement
NOTE:
- Take care not to tear the seams or damage the seat covers.
1. Remove the seat cushion. 2. From the back of the seat-back, pass both lower retainers (A)
through the slots in the seat cushion pad, and release all the clips (B), and fold back
3. Pull back the edge of the seat cushion cover all the way around, and release the clips (A), from
the seat cushion cover (B) through the hole in the
4. Install the cover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- To prevent wrinkles when installing a seat cushion cover, make sure the material is stretched
evenly over the pad before securing the clips.
- Replace any clips (A) you removed with new ones. Install them with a commercially available
upholstery ring pliers (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Door Lock Cylinder Switch >
Component Information > Locations
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
Insulator Locations
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Sound Proofing / Insulation > Component Information > Locations > Page
7874
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the undercover.
1. Remove the bolts (A), and the clips (B, C), then remove the right front floor undercover (D), the
left front floor undercover (E) from the front
undercover (F), the right middle floor undercover (G), and the left middle floor undercover (H).
NOTE: To remove the clips B and C, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (I) on its head.
2. Install the undercovers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the undercover.
1. Remove the bolts (A), and the clips (B, C), then remove the front undercover (D) from the splash
shield (E), the right front floor undercover (F),
NOTE: To remove the clips B and C, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (H) on its head.
2. Install the undercover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the bolts, and detach the clips, then remove the left middle floor undercover (A) and the
right middle undercover (B), from the right front
floor undercover (C), the left front floor undercover (D), and the body.
NOTE: To remove the clips B, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (E) on its head.
2. Install the undercovers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the clips (B) that secure the front inner fender (C) and front splash shield to the body. 2.
From under the front bumper (D), remove the clips (E, F). 3. From under the body, remove the clips
(G). 4. Release the hooks (H) of the front splash shield, then pull the splash shield out.
NOTE: To remove the clips B, E, F and G, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (I) on its
head.
2. Install the splash shield in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Push the clips and the hooks into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Floor
Undercover Replacement > Page 7884
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the undercover.
1. Remove the bolts (A), and the clips (B, C), then remove the right front floor undercover (D), the
left front floor undercover (E) from the front
undercover (F), the right middle floor undercover (G), and the left middle floor undercover (H).
NOTE: To remove the clips B and C, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (I) on its head.
2. Install the undercovers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
- Have an assistant help you when removing and installing the undercover.
1. Remove the bolts (A), and the clips (B, C), then remove the front undercover (D) from the splash
shield (E), the right front floor undercover (F),
NOTE: To remove the clips B and C, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (H) on its head.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Floor
Undercover Replacement > Page 7885
2. Install the undercover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the bolts, and detach the clips, then remove the left middle floor undercover (A) and the
right middle undercover (B), from the right front
floor undercover (C), the left front floor undercover (D), and the body.
NOTE: To remove the clips B, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (E) on its head.
2. Install the undercovers in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the clips (B) that secure the front inner fender (C) and front splash shield to the body. 2.
From under the front bumper (D), remove the clips (E, F). 3. From under the body, remove the clips
(G). 4. Release the hooks (H) of the front splash shield, then pull the splash shield out.
NOTE: To remove the clips B, E, F and G, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (I) on its
head.
2. Install the splash shield in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the left rear wheel. 2. Remove the clips, then remove the fuel pipe protector (A).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Floor
Undercover Replacement > Page 7887
3. Install the protector in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
1. Remove the bolts, then remove the rear strake (A) from the body.
1. Remove the clips and bolts, then remove the rear floor undercover (A). Take care not to scratch
the rear bumper (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Splash Guard > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Floor
Undercover Replacement > Page 7888
2. Install the undercover in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Spoiler: Customer Interest Body - Trunk Spoiler Chips Or Scuffs Trunk Lid
09-003
Trunk Spoiler Scuffs or Chips the Trunk Lid (Supersedes 09-003, dated March 30, 2009, to revise
the information marked by the black bars/shown with asterisks.)
REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
The trunk spoiler is scuffing or chipping the paint on the trunk lid.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The trunk spoiler seals are compressed, allowing contact between the spoiler and the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Polish or refinish the trunk lid as needed, then install the new trunk spoiler seals.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Spoilers, Flaps, and Air Dams > Spoiler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Spoiler: > 09-003 > Feb > 11 > Body - Trunk Spoiler Chips Or Scuffs
Trunk Lid > Page 7898
WARRANTY INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keyword SPOILER, and select Trunk Lid Spoiler Replacement from the list.
NOTE:
Use needle-nose pliers to help release the clips from the trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Spoilers, Flaps, and Air Dams > Spoiler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Spoiler: > 09-003 > Feb > 11 > Body - Trunk Spoiler Chips Or Scuffs
Trunk Lid > Page 7899
2. Inspect the trunk lid paint for scratches or chips.
^ If the paint is scratched, polish the trunk lid.
^ If the paint is chipped, refinish the trunk lid using best shop practices.
4. Using isopropyl alcohol on a shop towel, clean the area of the trunk spoiler where the trunk
spoiler seals will attach.
5. Apply the trunk spoiler seals between the two marks on the trunk spoiler as shown. Repeat on
the other side.
NOTE:
Spoiler: All Technical Service Bulletins Body - Trunk Spoiler Chips Or Scuffs Trunk Lid
09-003
Trunk Spoiler Scuffs or Chips the Trunk Lid (Supersedes 09-003, dated March 30, 2009, to revise
the information marked by the black bars/shown with asterisks.)
REVISION SUMMARY
SYMPTOM
The trunk spoiler is scuffing or chipping the paint on the trunk lid.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The trunk spoiler seals are compressed, allowing contact between the spoiler and the trunk lid.
CORRECTIVE ACTION
Polish or refinish the trunk lid as needed, then install the new trunk spoiler seals.
PARTS INFORMATION
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Spoilers, Flaps, and Air Dams > Spoiler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Spoiler: > 09-003 > Feb > 11 > Body - Trunk Spoiler Chips
Or Scuffs Trunk Lid > Page 7906
WARRANTY INFORMATION
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ Online, enter keyword SPOILER, and select Trunk Lid Spoiler Replacement from the list.
NOTE:
Use needle-nose pliers to help release the clips from the trunk lid.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Spoilers, Flaps, and Air Dams > Spoiler > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Spoiler: > 09-003 > Feb > 11 > Body - Trunk Spoiler Chips
Or Scuffs Trunk Lid > Page 7907
2. Inspect the trunk lid paint for scratches or chips.
^ If the paint is scratched, polish the trunk lid.
^ If the paint is chipped, refinish the trunk lid using best shop practices.
4. Using isopropyl alcohol on a shop towel, clean the area of the trunk spoiler where the trunk
spoiler seals will attach.
5. Apply the trunk spoiler seals between the two marks on the trunk spoiler as shown. Repeat on
the other side.
NOTE:
NOTE:
NOTE: To remove the clips A and B, pry the inner pin up at the edge near the line (D) on its head.
2. Pull the front air spoiler back to detach the hooks (E) and remove the spoiler. 3. Install the
spoiler in the reverse order of removal:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
1. Remove the trunk lid trim. 2. Remove the nuts from inside the trunk lid.
3. Detach the clips (A, B) by pushing them from the hole in the trunk lid. Carefully insert a trim tool
next to the side clips (C), and detach the clips by
prying on the spoiler (D). Take care not to scratch the trunk lid.
4. Close the trunk lid. Pull the trunk lid spoiler (A) up to release the clips from the trunk lid, then
remove the spoiler.
5. Install the spoiler in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
Removal
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 7915
- Remove the wheelhouse upper member, and replace the upper member separator.
- If necessary, replace the damper housing, damper housing extension and front damper extension
A as an assembly.
Installation
1. Clamp the new damper housing, front wheelhouse, front damper extension, front bulkhead, and
measure the front compartment diagonally. 2. Check the body dimensions.
- Engine compartment
3. Tack weld the new parts and front bulkhead into position. 4. Temporarily install the front
subframe, and check the front side frame position. 5. Temporarily install the hood, front fender,
headlight, and front bumper, then check for differences in level and clearance. Make sure the body
lines
flow smoothly.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 7917
6. Do the main welding.
- Weld the damper housing (A), front wheelhouse (B), front damper extension A (C) and front
damper extension B (D).
- From the passenger's side, plug weld the holes in the dashboard lower (E) and damper housing
extension (F).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Strut / Shock Tower > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Page 7918
7. Weld the front damper extension B (A) and front end outrigger (B).
Passenger's Side
8. Install the new upper member separator (A) to the damper extension bulkhead (B).
NOTE: Apply the sealer (C) all the way around the separator and inside of the wheelhouse upper
member (D), without gaps.
1. Turn on the wiper switch, and move the windshield wiper arms 90°. 2. Remove the center cowl
cover (A).
1. Remove the hood rear seal (B) by pulling it out. 2. Remove the clips (C). 3. Release three front
hooks (D) from the edge of the under-cowl panel (E). 4. Detach the clips (F, G) by carefully pulling
the cover up, then remove the cover by releasing the hooks (H). Take care not to scratch the body.
3. Disconnect the windshield washer tube (I). 4. If necessary, remove the bolts (A, B), then remove
the under-cowl panel (C).
6. Detach the clips by carefully pulling the side cowl cover (A) up, then remove the cover by
releasing the hooks (B) from the front fender. Take care
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Unibody > Cowl > Cowl Moulding / Trim > System Information > Service
and Repair > Page 7924
not to scratch the body. Repeat this step for the other side cowl cover, and disconnect the
windshield washer tube.
7. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
NOTE:
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D), then remove the door weatherstrip (E). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Make sure the weatherstrip is installed in the holder (F) securely.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before
installation.
10-011
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
NOTE:
1. Lower the glass fully. 2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front
door glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
5. Twist the front door glass outer weatherstrip (A) to pull the rear hook (B) out from the inside of
the door, then remove the weatherstrip.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Front Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7938
6. Push the clip portions of new front door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Rear Door Weatherstrip > Component Information > Service
and Repair
2. Detach the clips (B, C, D), then remove the door weatherstrip (E). 3. Install the weatherstrip in
the reverse order of removal, and note these items:
- Check if the clips are damaged or stress-whitened, and if necessary, replace them with new ones.
- Apply medium strength type liquid thread lock to the door checker mounting bolt before
installation.
10-011
March 5, 2010
Service Manual Update: Power Window Goes Up and Reverses On Its Own, Is Slow to Open and
Close, or Squeals, Creaks, Clunks, or Clicks
BACKGROUND
The information in this service bulletin addresses three power window problems that are not
currently covered in the service manuals.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
SYMPTOM 1
When using the auto-up function, the driver's or front passenger's window goes up and then
reverses on its own.
PROBABLE CAUSE
The power window control unit needs to be reset, or the run channel is damaged/dirty.
NOTE:
Do the power window control unit reset procedure first. If the window still doesn't work, go to
Symptom 2.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
NOTE:
You must do the manual reset from the power window switch at the affected window. For example,
if you're resetting the front passenger's power window control unit, do it from the front passenger's
power window switch, not the driver's power window master switch.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II).
2. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
NOTE:
Do steps 4 thru 7 within 5 seconds of each other. Do these steps a total of four times in a row.
These steps clear the control unit's memory.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up feature doesn't work. If it does, do steps 4 thru 7 again, paying close
attention to the 5-second time limit for up to three more times for each series of steps.
8. Lower the window all the way down with the power window switch.
9. Pull up and hold the power window switch until the window goes all the way up, then keep
holding the switch for 1 second.
NOTE:
Make sure the auto-up/down feature works correctly by lowering and raising the window with the
power window switch. If it doesn't work correctly, repeat the manual reset several times, paying
close attention to the 5-second time limit. If it still doesn't work, troubleshoot the power window
circuit. Then continue with Symptom 2.
SYMPTOM 2
PROBABLE CAUSE
REQUIRED MATERIALS
NOTE:
Aftermarket window tinting will also cause the window to move slower and is not covered by the
manufacturer's warranty. No repair attempts should be made if the window has aftermarket tinting.
1. Compare the up and down speed of the affected window to another like vehicle:
^ If the speed is the same as the other vehicle, no further troubleshooting is required.
^ If the speed is not the same, remove the door panel and the door glass, then check the window
regulator speed.
^ If the speed is the same as it was with the glass in place, replace the window regulator.
NOTE:
When evaluating regulator performance without the glass, never allow the regulator to travel to the
full up position because damage can occur to the regulator.
3. Reinstall the glass into the door without bolting it to the regulator, then manually slide it through
its range of travel and check for excessive
resistance:
4. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
^ If the run channel is pinched, replace it, then adjust the run channels and the glass as needed.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease. You may also
need to clean the portion of the run channel within the
door.
SYMPTOM 3
REQUIRED MATERIALS
REPAIR PROCEDURE
^ If the noise is the same, no repair is needed. Advise the customer that some noise is a normal
characteristic.
4. Unbolt the glass from the regulator, then manually slide it through its travel to check for
excessive resistance.
5. Clean the run channel using a soapy water solution, then apply Shin-Etsu grease inside the
channel. You may also need to clean the portion of the run
^ If the window operates normally after cleaning and applying grease, no further action is required.
6. Inspect the run channel alignment, both inside and outside the door. Pay close attention just
below the door skin; this is a common area for the run
channel to be pinched.
NOTE:
- Door panel
- Plastic cover
- Quarter glass
2. Release the front hook (A) from inside of the door, then pull up the front portion of the rear door
glass outer weatherstrip (B).
3. Starting at the front, slowly pull up the rear door glass outer weatherstrip (A).
4. Push the rear hook (A) out from inside of the door, then remove the rear door glass outer
weatherstrip (B).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Rear Door Window Glass Weatherstrip > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7951
5. Push the clip portions of the rear door glass outer weatherstrip into place securely.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Body and Frame > Weatherstrip > Trunk / Liftgate Weatherstrip > Component Information >
Service and Repair
2. Apply clear weatherstrip sealant (B) into the channel of the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way
around. 3. Locate the painted alignment mark (C or D) on the trunk lid weatherstrip. Align the
painted mark in the center of the trunk lid opening, and install
the trunk lid weatherstrip all the way around in the direction shown. Make sure there are no
wrinkles in the weatherstrip.
SRS components are located in this area. Review the SRS component locations and the
precautions and procedures before doing repairs or service.
1. Remove the driver's airbag. 2. Remove the eight screws.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
4. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
- If there is continuity, and it matches the table, but switch failure occurred on the cruise control
input test, check and repair the wire harness on the switch circuit.
- With navigation
- Without navigation
2. Remove the screws (A) and the passenger's airbag cutoff indicator (B) from the center panel.
3. Check for continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 terminals of the indicator. If there is no
continuity, replace the bulb. 4. Reinstall the parts in the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Audible Warning Device > Component
Information > Diagrams
19. Buzzer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7981
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7982
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7984
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7985
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7986
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7987
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7988
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7989
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7990
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7991
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7995
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7997
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7998
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7999
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8000
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8001
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8002
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8003
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8004
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8005
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8006
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8007
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8008
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Brake Warning Indicator > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8009
Buzzer Replacement
1. Remove the subdisplay visor. 2. Remove the clip (A), and disconnect the buzzer 2P connector
(B).
3. Remove the buzzer (C). 4. Install the buzzer in the reverse order of removal. 5. Do the BUZZER
ON in the FUNCTION TEST with the HDS, and check that the buzzer can sound.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Cigarette Lighter: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8015
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8016
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8018
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8019
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8020
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8021
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8022
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8023
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8024
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8025
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8029
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8031
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8032
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8033
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8034
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8035
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8036
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8037
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8038
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8039
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8040
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8041
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8042
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8043
Diagram 155-0
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Cigarette Lighter > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8045
Diagram 155-1
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On Display Randomly
Changes
08-084
November 4, 2008
SYMPTOM
The customer notices that the clock shown on the subdisplay, the audio unit, or the navigation
screen randomly changes time, but never by exactly 1 hour.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is a problem with the real-time clock circuit in the navigation unit.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
For information on navigation unit ordering, see Service Bulletin 06-001, Audio, Navigation, and
RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange, and Audio and DVD Player Out-of-Warranty Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On Display Randomly
Changes > Page 8054
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
If the customer complains the clock jumps by an hour, this bulletin does not apply. It is likely one of
the following:
- A time zone issue. If the customer lives or works close to a time zone boundary, the clock may
jump forward or back by one hour. Select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Auto Time
Zone is set to OFF.
- Daylight saving time issue. Refer to Service Bulletin 07-026, Navigation Software Updates for
Daylight Saving Time (DST), DVD Read Error Message, and Other Listed Symptoms. After
applying the bulletin, select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Daylight Savings is set
to ON.
When the symptom is occuring, typically when the ignition switch is first turned to ON (II), press the
SETUP button, then select Time Adjustment.
Is the clock time displayed the same incorrect time as the clock adjustment screen, and do they
jump together?
Yes - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
No -
- If the symptom cannot be duplicated, it is an intermittent failure and the vehicle is OK at this time.
If the vehicle returns with the same complaint, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
- If the times are different between the navigation time adjustment screen and the sub-display or
audio unit display, this bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
- Online, enter keywords NAVI REMOVAL, and select Navigation Unit Removal/Installation from
the list.
2. To avoid comebacks, check online, and apply any navigation patches or software updates for
the navigation unit. Online, enter keyword
SOFTWARE and select any applicable service bulletins from the list.
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Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On Display Randomly
Changes > Page 8055
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On
Display Randomly Changes
Clock: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Time On Display Randomly Changes
08-084
November 4, 2008
SYMPTOM
The customer notices that the clock shown on the subdisplay, the audio unit, or the navigation
screen randomly changes time, but never by exactly 1 hour.
PROBABLE CAUSE
There is a problem with the real-time clock circuit in the navigation unit.
VEHICLES AFFECTED
CORRECTIVE ACTION
PARTS INFORMATION
For information on navigation unit ordering, see Service Bulletin 06-001, Audio, Navigation, and
RES Unit In-Warranty Exchange, and Audio and DVD Player Out-of-Warranty Repair.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On
Display Randomly Changes > Page 8061
Out of warranty: Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill
consideration by the District Parts and Service Manager or your Zone Office. You must request
consideration, and get a decision, before starting work.
DIAGNOSIS
NOTE:
If the customer complains the clock jumps by an hour, this bulletin does not apply. It is likely one of
the following:
- A time zone issue. If the customer lives or works close to a time zone boundary, the clock may
jump forward or back by one hour. Select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Auto Time
Zone is set to OFF.
- Daylight saving time issue. Refer to Service Bulletin 07-026, Navigation Software Updates for
Daylight Saving Time (DST), DVD Read Error Message, and Other Listed Symptoms. After
applying the bulletin, select Setup, then Clock Adjustment, and make sure Daylight Savings is set
to ON.
When the symptom is occuring, typically when the ignition switch is first turned to ON (II), press the
SETUP button, then select Time Adjustment.
Is the clock time displayed the same incorrect time as the clock adjustment screen, and do they
jump together?
Yes - Go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
No -
- If the symptom cannot be duplicated, it is an intermittent failure and the vehicle is OK at this time.
If the vehicle returns with the same complaint, go to REPAIR PROCEDURE.
- If the times are different between the navigation time adjustment screen and the sub-display or
audio unit display, this bulletin does not apply. Continue with normal troubleshooting.
REPAIR PROCEDURE
- Online, enter keywords NAVI REMOVAL, and select Navigation Unit Removal/Installation from
the list.
2. To avoid comebacks, check online, and apply any navigation patches or software updates for
the navigation unit. Online, enter keyword
SOFTWARE and select any applicable service bulletins from the list.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Clock > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clock: > 08-084 > Nov > 08 > Instruments - Time On
Display Randomly Changes > Page 8062
Disclaimer
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before servicing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when doing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) or the
battery cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you
have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write
down the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock (without navigation).
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
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- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C).
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
these things: -
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for
3 minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the
connectors from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned to LOCK (0).
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection after Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
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- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- Do not use any silicone based cleaners or lubricants on any SRS connectors or terminals.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8070
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Opening the SRS Unit Shorting Connectors for Diagnosis
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electrical contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid. Do not spray
steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait
for 3 minutes before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8073
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8074
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the
seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dashboard / Instrument Panel > Air
Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8075
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B
(28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Dimmer Switch > Component Information
> Diagrams
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect its connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Door Switch > Component Information >
Locations
Door Switch: Locations
The PCM detects a loose or missing fuel fill cap as an evaporative system leak and alerts the driver
by showing a warning message in the gauge display.
The first time a leak is detected a "CHECK FUEL CAP" message appears in the gauge display (A).
To scroll to another message, press the select/reset button. The "CHECK FUEL CAP" message
will appear each time you restart the engine until the system turns the message off. Turn the
engine off then replace or tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks at least once.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Clear the Temporary DTC with the HDS. 3. Verify there is
no leak by doing the EVAP FUNCTION TEST in the INSPECTION MENU with the HDS.
Procedure
1. Tighten the fuel fill cap until it clicks. 2. Start the engine, then turn the ignition switch OFF. 3.
Repeat step 2 two more times.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Gauge: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8093
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8099
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8100
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8101
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8102
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8106
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8108
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8109
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8110
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8111
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8112
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8113
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8114
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8115
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8116
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8118
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8119
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Locations
NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram.
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Disconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 4. Measure voltage between floor wire
harness C651 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should
be
battery voltage. -
If the voltage is OK, check for short or open in the fuel subharness, then go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 7. Measure
resistance between fuel tank unit 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E
(EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
8. Reconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 9. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A)
fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it.
10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 11. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with
the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F" replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8124
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Fuel Gauge Sender > Component
Information > Locations > Page 8125
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair
General Precautions
Please read the following precautions carefully before servicing the airbag system service. If the
instructions described are not properly followed the airbags could accidentally deploy and cause
damage or injuries.
- Except when doing electrical inspections, always turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect
the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes before starting work.
NOTE: The SRS memory is not cleared even if the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0) or the
battery cables are disconnected from the battery.
- Use replacement parts which are manufactured to the same standards and quality as the original
parts. Do not install used SRS parts. Use only new parts when making SRS repairs.
- Carefully inspect any SRS part before you install it. Do not install any part that shows signs of
being dropped or improperly handled, such as dents, cracks or deformation.
- Before disconnecting the SRS unit connectors, always disconnect the appropriate SRS parts
connectors.
- Use only a digital multimeter to check the system. If it is not a Honda multimeter, make sure its
output is 10 mA (0.01 A) or less when switched to the lowest value in the ohmmeter range. A tester
with a higher output could cause accidental deployment and possible injury.
- The original audio and navigation system have a coded theft protection circuit. Make sure you
have the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the navigation system (if equipped), then write
down the audio presets before disconnecting the negative cable from the battery.
- Before returning the vehicle to the customer, enter the anti-theft codes for the audio system or the
navigation system (if equipped), then enter the audio presets; set the clock (without navigation).
Steering-related Precautions
- Misalignment of the cable reel could cause an open in the wiring, making the SRS system, remote
steering wheel controls, and the horn inoperative. Center the cable reel whenever you do the
following. -
- If the cable reel shows any signs of damage, replace it with a new one. For example, if it does not
rotate smoothly, replace the cable reel.
Do not disassemble an airbag. It has no serviceable parts. Once an airbag has been deployed, it
cannot be repaired or reused.
For temporary storage of an airbag during service, observe the following precautions.
- Store the removed airbag with the pad surface up. Never put anything on the airbag.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8130
- To prevent damage to the airbag, keep it away from any oil, grease, detergent, or water.
- Store the removed airbag on a secure, flat surface away from any high heat source (exceeding
200 °F/93 °C).
- Do not position yourself in front of the airbag during removal, inspection, or replacement.
- The side curtain airbag inflator assembly is a long, jointed part containing an inflator (A), a flexible
bag (B), and brackets (C). When removing or installing the side curtain airbag assembly, never do
these things: -
- Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0), disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for
3 minutes before starting installation or replacement of the SRS unit, or disconnecting the
connectors from the SRS unit.
- Be careful not to bump or impact the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, or rear
safing sensor whenever the ignition switch is ON (II), or for at least 3 minutes after the ignition
switch is turned to LOCK (0).
- During installation or replacement, be careful not to bump (by impact wrench, hammer, etc.) the
area around the SRS unit, front impact sensors, the side impact sensors, or rear safing sensor. The
airbags could accidentally deploy and cause damage or injury.
- After a collision where a front airbag, side airbag or a seat belt tensioner, seat belt buckle
tensioner deployed, go to Component Replacement/Inspection after Deployment. See: Restraint
Systems/Air Bag Systems/Service and Repair After a collision where the airbags did not deploy,
inspect for any damage or any deformation on the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact
sensors, or rear safing sensor. If there is any damage, replace the SRS unit and/or the sensors.
- Do not disassemble the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, driver's seat position
sensor, front passenger's weight sensors, or rear safing sensor.
- Be sure the SRS unit, front impact sensors, side impact sensors, and rear safing sensor are
installed securely with the mounting bolts torqued to 9.8 Nm (1.0 kgf.m, 7.2 lbf.ft). Whenever you
remove or replace the SRS unit, safing sensor, or all impact sensors, always install the
components with new bolts.
- Do not spill water or oil on the SRS unit or the side impact sensors.
Wiring Precautions
Some of the SRS wiring can be identified by special yellow outer covering, and the SRS
connectors can be identified by their yellow color. Observe the instructions.
- Never attempt to modify, splice, or repair SRS wiring. If there is an open or damage in SRS
wiring, replace the harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8132
- Be sure to install the harness wires so they do not get pinched or interfere with other parts.
- Make sure all SRS ground locations are clean, and grounds are securely fastened for optimum
metal-to-metal contact. Poor grounds can cause intermittent problems that are difficult to diagnose.
- Do not use any silicone based cleaners or lubricants on any SRS connectors or terminals.
- When using electrical test equipment, insert the probe of the tester into the wire side of the
connector. Do not insert the probe of the tester into the terminal side of the connector, and do not
tamper with the connector.
- Use specified service connectors in troubleshooting. Using improper tools could cause an error in
inspection due to poor metal-to-metal contact.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8133
Spring-loaded Lock Connector
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector.
Connecting
To reconnect, hold the pawl-side connector, and press on the back of the sleeve-side connector in
the direction shown. As the two connector halves are pressed together, the sleeve (A) is pushed
back by the pawl (B). Do not touch the sleeve.
Disconnecting
To release the lock, pull the spring-loaded sleeve (A) toward the stop (B) while holding the opposite
half of the connector. Then pull the connector halves apart. Be sure to pull on the sleeve and not
on the connector half.
Connecting
Hold both connector halves, and press them firmly together until the projection (A) of the
sleeve-side connector clicks.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8134
Opening the SRS Unit Shorting Connectors for Diagnosis
NOTE:
- To prevent damaging of the connector cavity, insert the short canceller straight into the cavity
from the terminal side.
- Before installing the short canceller, wash it with electrical contact cleaner, then dry it with
compressed air.
When SRS unit connectors A (28P) or B (28P) are disconnected, a short circuit is created in the
connector by its own function to prevent an airbag deployment. The circuit may need to be open
sometimes when diagnosis is done on the system. Insert the short canceller (070AZ-SAA0100) in
the specified cavities when it is necessary to keep the circuit open for diagnosis.
Terminal numbers are shown from the wire side of the female terminals. Insert the short
canceller(s) into the cavities on the terminal side of the connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8135
Seats with Side Airbags
Seats with side airbags have a "SIDE AIRBAG" label on the seat-back.
- When cleaning, use a damp cloth to clean the seat. Do not soak the seat with liquid. Do not spray
steam on the seat.
- Do not repair a torn or frayed seat-back cover. Replace the seat-back cover.
- After a collision where the side airbag was deployed, replace the side airbag and seat frame with
new parts. If the seat-back cushion is split, it must be replaced.
- Never put aftermarket accessories on the seat (covers, pads, seat heaters, lights, etc.).
Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) and disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait
for 3 minutes before starting the following procedures.
- Before disconnecting the cable reel 4P connector (1), disconnect the driver's airbag 4P connector
(2).
- Before disconnecting SRS unit connector B from the SRS unit, disconnect both seat belt
tensioner 4P connectors and both seat belt buckle tensioner 4P connectors (3, 4, 5, 6).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8136
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery, then wait for 3 minutes.
Driver's Airbag
2. Remove the access panel (A) from the steering wheel, then disconnect the driver's airbag 4P
connector (B) from the cable reel.
3. Remove the lower glove box, then disconnect the front passenger's airbag 4P connector (A)
from the dashboard wire harness.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8137
Side Airbag
4. Disconnect both side airbag 2P connectors (A) from the floor wire harness.
5. Remove the headliner. 6. Disconnect both floor wire harness 2P connectors (A) from the side
curtain airbags.
7. Remove the B-pillar lower trim. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the
seat belt tensioners.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Air Bag(s)
Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and Repair > Page 8138
Seat Belt Buckle Tensioner
8. Disconnect both floor wire harness 4P connectors (A) from the seat belt buckle tensioner.
SRS Unit
9. Remove the center console. Disconnect SRS unit connector A (28P) and SRS unit connector B
(28P) from the SRS unit.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Instrument Cluster / Carrier > Instrument
Panel Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Instrument Panel Control Module: Locations
- If the low fuel indicator does not flash, replace the gauge control module (tach).
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
- If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
- If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit set one or more of these codes:
DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure returns to normal, the control unit turns off the
indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the control unit detects a problem in the system
during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the low tire pressure indicator, stores the
DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36, or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
Maintenance Minder
References:
- For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to
Indicator Based Service. See: Maintenance/Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based
Maintenance Services/Indicator Based Service
- For information on how to reset the display, refer to the article under Resetting the Maintenance
Minder. See: Service and Repair
The vehicle displays engine oil life and maintenance service items on the information display to
show when to perform an engine oil replacement and other indicated maintenance service.
Based on the engine operating conditions and accumulated engine revolutions, the onboard
computer calculates the remaining engine oil life and displays it as a percentage.
To see the current engine oil life, turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position, then push and
release the SEL/RESET button repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator appears.
The remaining engine oil life is displayed on the information display according to the table above.
If the remaining engine oil life is 15 to 6 percent, the engine oil life indicator will display every time
the ignition switch is turned to the ON (II) position. The maintenance minder indicator will also
come on, and the maintenance item code(s) for other scheduled maintenance items needing
service will be
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8157
displayed next to the engine oil life indicator.
The maintenance item code or codes indicate the main and sub items required at the time of the oil
change. For an explanation of Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed,
refer to Indicator Based Service. See: Maintenance/Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based
Maintenance Services/Indicator Based Service
When the remaining engine oil life is 5 to 1 percent, you will see a "SERVICE OIL LIFE" message
along with the same maintenance item code(s), every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON
(II) position.
When the remaining engine oil life is 0 percent, the engine oil life indicator will blink. The display
comes on every time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position. When you see this
message, the indicated maintenance should be performed as soon as possible.
If you still do not perform the indicated maintenance, you will see negative mileage. It is displayed
when the vehicle has been driven more then 10 miles (for U.S. models) 10 km (for Canadian
models) after seeing the 0 percent message. Afterward, it shows the subsequent driving distance.
The maintenance should be performed immediately.
You can change the information display from the engine oil life display to the odometer, the trip
meter, or the outside temperature (if equipped) every time you press and release the SEL/RESET
button.
When the engine oil life is 0 percent or negative mileage, the maintenance minder indicator
(Wrench Icon) remains on even if you change the information display.
Immediately have the service performed, and make sure to reset the display. Refer to "Resetting
the Engine Oil Life Display".
All maintenance items displayed in the information display are in code. For an explanation of
Maintenance Minder Codes and what service should be performed, refer to Indicator Based
Service. See: Maintenance/Service Intervals/Condition/Indicator Based Maintenance
Services/Indicator Based Service
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8158
Important Maintenance Precautions
If you complete the required service but do not reset the display, or reset the display without doing
the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance intervals. This can lead to serious
mechanical problems because there will no longer be an accurate record of when maintenance is
needed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8159
Reference:
- For information regarding interpreting the maintenance minder display refer to Maintenance
Required Lamp/Indicator / Description and Operation / "Reading the Maintenance Minder".
Reset the display after completing the required maintenance service. You will see "OIL LIFE 100%"
on the information display the next time you turn the ignition switch to the ON (II) position.
2. Press the SEL/RESET knob (or button if equipped) repeatedly until the engine oil life is
displayed.
3. Press the SEL/RESET button for about 10 seconds. The engine oil life and the maintenance
item code(s) will blink.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Maintenance Required Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8160
4. Press the SEL/RESET button for more than 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will
disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100."
If you complete the required service but do not reset the display, or reset the display without doing
the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance intervals. This can lead to serious
mechanical problems because there will no longer be an accurate record of when maintenance is
needed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
The vehicle has certain "readiness codes" that are part of the on-board diagnostics for the
emissions systems. If the vehicle's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, if the DTCs have
been cleared, or if the PCM has been reset, these codes are reset. In some states, part of the
emissions testing is to make sure these codes are set to complete. If all of them are not set to
complete, the vehicle may fail the test, or the test cannot be finished.
To check if the readiness codes are set to complete, turn the ignition switch ON (II), but do not start
the engine. The MIL will come on for 15 - 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are
complete. If it flashes five times, one or more readiness codes are not complete!. To set each code,
drive the vehicle or run the engine as described in the procedures.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 8164
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module (tach), and recheck. If the MIL circuit is OK,
replace the original gauge control module (tach).
3. Connect the HDS to the DLC. 4. Check the SCS in the DATA LIST with the HDS.
Is a short indicated?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Disconnect PCM connector A (44P), then disconnect the HDS.
7. Check for continuity between PCM connector terminal A31 and body ground.
Is there continuity?
YES - Repair short in the wire between the PCM (A31), the SRS unit, and the DLC
NO - Update the PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good PCM, then
recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good PCM, replace the original PCM.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection
Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive: Testing and Inspection
NOTE:
- If the IMA system indicator stays on or never comes on, do this troubleshooting (if no DTCs are
set).
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the IMA system indicator.
YES - Go to step 2.
NO - Go to step 5.
2. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), wait 2 seconds, and watch the
IMA system indicator.
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 5.
YES - Go to step 6.
NO - Substitute a known-good gauge control module, and recheck. If the IMA system indicator
circuit is OK, replace the original gauge control module.
YES - Go to step 7.
7. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 8. Turn the battery module switch OFF. 9. Remove the IPU lid.
10. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 11. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 12. Measure
voltage between body ground and BCM module connector terminal A29.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8168
Is there 12 V battery voltage?
NO - -
Repair open or short in the wire between the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash
fuse/relay box and the BCM module (A29).
13. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 14. Reconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 15. Turn the
ignition switch ON (II). 16. Measure voltage between body ground and BCM module connector
terminals A2 and A3.
NO - Go to step 20.
17. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 18. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 19. Check for
continuity between body ground and BCM module connector terminals A8*, A9, A22*, and A23
individually.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the BCM module if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
BCM module, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good BCM module,
replace the original BCM module
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8169
NO - Repair open in the wire between G902 and the BCM module (A8, A9), or between G102 and
the BCM module (A22, A23).
20. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 21. Remove MCM relay 1 (A).
23. Measure voltage between body ground and MCM relay 1 4P connector terminals No. 2 and No.
4 individually.
NO - Repair open or short to ground in the wire between the No. 62 + IMA (7.5 A) and MCM relay
1. Also replace the No. 62 + IMA (7.5 A) fuse. Repair short to ground in the wire between MCM
relay 1, MCM relay 2, and the BCM module (A2, A3, A11).
24. Reinstall MCM relay 1. 25. Disconnect BCM module connector A (40P). 26. Turn the ignition
switch ON (II). 27. Measure voltage between body ground and BCM module connector terminal
A11.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp - Hybrid Drive
> Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8170
28. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 29. Check for continuity between BCM module connector terminal
A2 and A3 and MCM relay 1 4P connector terminal No. 1.
Is there continuity?
YES - Update the BCM module if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good
BCM module, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good BCM module,
replace the original BCM module.
NO - Repair open in the wire between MCM relay 1 and the BCM module (A2*, A3).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Locations
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect its connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Odometer > Component Information >
Locations > Page 8175
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect its connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Sender > Component
Information > Locations
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Remove the oil pressure switch connector (A) from the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Check for continuity between the positive terminal (c) and the engine (ground). There should be
continuity with the engine stopped. There should
1. Remove the engine undercover and the splash shield. 2. Remove the A/C condenser fan shroud
assembly. 3. Remove the A/C compressor without disconnecting the A/C hoses.
4. Disconnect the oil pressure switch connector (A), then remove the oil pressure switch (B).
5. Remove any old liquid gasket from the switch and the switch mounting hole. 6. Apply a very
small amount of liquid gasket to the oil pressure switch threads, then install the oil pressure switch.
NOTE: Using too much liquid gasket may cause liquid gasket to enter the oil passage or the end of
the new oil pressure switch.
7. Loosely install the compressor mounting bolts and the compressor through bolt in the numbered
sequence shown. Failure to follow this sequence
8. Install the A/C condenser fan shroud assembly. 9. Install the engine undercover and the splash
shield.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8190
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8191
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8193
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8194
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8195
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8196
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8197
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8198
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8199
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8200
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8204
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8206
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8207
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8208
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8209
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8210
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8211
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8212
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8213
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8214
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8215
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8216
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8217
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8218
NOTE: To test the outside air temperature sensor, go to Heating and Air Conditioning.
Description
The outside temperature sensor is located behind the center of the front bumper. The gauge
control module (tach) uses measurements from this sensor to display the outside air temperature.
Because of the location of the sensor, it may be affected by heat reflection from the road, engine
and radiator heat or hot exhaust from surrounding traffic. These conditions can heat soak the
outside air temperature sensor and cause inaccurate readings. Logic has been written into the
gauge control module (tach) to help prevent abnormal of fluctuating outside air temperature
indicator readings.
Initial outside air temperature indication after the ignition switch is turned ON (II).
- If the engine coolant temperature is 140 °F (60 °C) or higher when the ignition switch is turned
ON (II), the outside air temperature indicated the last time the key was turned off will be displayed
regardless of the current temperature measured by the outside air temperature sensor.
- If the engine coolant temperature is 139 °F (59 °C) or lower when the ignition switch is turned ON
(II), the current temperature measured by the outside air temperature sensor will be indicated.
If the temperature measured by the outside air temperature sensor is greater than the temperature
on the outside air temperature indicator, the outside temperature indicator will increase by 1.8 °F (1
°C) per minute after the vehicle speed is greater than 19 mph (30 km/h) for more than 1 minute and
30 seconds. It will continue to increase until the current outside air temperature is indicated. So, the
first change to the outside air temperature indicator is 1 minute and 30 seconds after the vehicle
speed is greater than 19 mph (30 km/h). If the vehicle speed drops below 19 mph (30 km/h), the
indicator will not update again until the vehicle speed is increased to 19 mph (30 km/h) or more for
more than 1 minute and 30 seconds again. If the outside air temperature is less than the indicated
temperature, the temperature will decrease 1°F every 1.1 seconds (1 °C every 2 seconds) until the
current outside air temperature is indicated regardless of vehicle speed.
Troubleshooting
If the indicator displays "----" for more than 2 seconds after selecting the outside air temperature
display mode, check the gauge control module self-diagnosis.
Calibration
The outside air temperature indicator's displayed temperature can be recalibrated ±5 °F (or ±3 °C)
to meet the client's expectations.
1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 2. Select the outside air temperature display. 3. Press and
hold the SEL/RESET switch for 10 seconds. While you continue to hold the button, the display will
scroll through temperature settings
4. When the desired correction value appears on the display, release the button, and the
recalibrated outside air temperature will be displayed. Each
NOTE: The recalibration temperature is not the value the sensor sees. Therefore the temperature
can only be adjusted ± degrees from the sensor.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Outside Temperature Display >
Component Information > Adjustments > Page 8222
NOTE: To recalibrate the display to the true temperature, remove the outside air temperature
sensor (A), but leave it connected. Submerge the sensor and a thermometer (B) in a container of
ice water (C). Select the calibration mode as described above, then recalibrate the display to the
true temperature.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Parking Brake Warning Switch >
Component Information > Locations
NOTE: If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the
same time, check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system
indicator does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect its connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Door Switch > Component Information > Locations
Door Switch: Locations
NOTE: For the fuel gauge system circuit diagram, refer to the Gauges Circuit Diagram.
1. Check the No. 10 METER (7.5 A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box before testing. 2. Check
for body electrical system DTCs.
3. Disconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 4. Measure voltage between floor wire
harness C651 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 2 with the ignition switch ON (II). There should
be
battery voltage. -
If the voltage is OK, check for short or open in the fuel subharness, then go to step 5.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. 6. Remove the fuel tank unit from the fuel tank. 7. Measure
resistance between fuel tank unit 4P connector terminals No. 1 and No. 3 with the float at E
(EMPTY), LOW (LOW FUEL
INDICATOR), 1/2 (HALF FULL), and F (FULL) positions. If you do not get the following readings,
replace the fuel gauge sending unit.
8. Reconnect the fuel tank unit subharness 4P connector. 9. Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A)
fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10 seconds, then reinstall it.
10. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). 11. Check that the pointer of the fuel gauge indicates "F" with
the float at F.
- If the pointer of the fuel gauge does not indicate "F" replace the gauge assembly.
NOTE: -
The pointer of the fuel gauge returns to the bottom of the gauge dial when the ignition switch is
OFF, regardless of the fuel level.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Locations > Page 8251
- Remove the No. 23 BACK UP (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box for at least 10
seconds after completing troubleshooting, otherwise it may take up to 20 minutes for the fuel gauge
to indicate the correct fuel level.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Fuel Gauge Sender > Component Information > Locations > Page 8252
1. Remove the fuel tank unit. 2. Remove the fuel level sensor (fuel gauge sending unit) (A) from the
fuel tank unit (B).
- When connecting the wire harness, make sure the connection is secure and the connectors (C)
are firmly locked into place.
- When installing the fuel gauge sending unit, make sure the connection is secure. Be careful not to
bend or twist it excessively.
4. Install the parts in the reverse order of removal. When installing the fuel tank unit, align the
marks on the unit and the fuel tank.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel
> Parking Brake Warning Switch > Component Information > Locations
NOTE: If the ABS indicator, the AHB indicator, and the brake system indicator come on at the
same time, check the advanced hydraulic booster system first, then check the ABS.
1. Remove the center console. 2. Disconnect the parking brake switch connector (A) from the
parking brake switch (B).
3. Check for continuity between the switch terminal (C) and body ground.
NOTE: If the parking brake switch and the fluid level switches are OK, but the brake system
indicator does not function, do the gauge control module self-diagnostic function.
Circuit Schematics
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8265
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8266
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8273
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8274
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8275
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8279
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8281
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8282
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Shift Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8283
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8284
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8285
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8286
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8287
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8288
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8289
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Circuit Diagram
Low Tire Pressure Indicator: Service and Repair TPMS Indicator Reset
The TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) has a low tire pressure indicator and a TPMS
indicator. When the TPMS control unit detects low pressure in a tire, or a problem in the system, it
turns on the appropriate indicator.
- If low tire pressure is detected in one or more tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on.
- If low tire pressure and a problem in the system are detected, only the TPMS indicator comes on.
If the system is OK, the TPMS indicator and the low tire pressure indicator should come on when
you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), and then go off 2 seconds later. If they don't, there is a
problem with the system.
If the system detects low pressure in any of the four tires, the low tire pressure indicator comes on,
and the control unit set one or more of these codes:
DTC 11, 13, 15, 17. When the tire pressure returns to normal, the control unit turns off the
indicators and stores the DTC(s). However, if the control unit detects a problem in the system
during an indication of low tire pressure, it turns off the low tire pressure indicator, stores the
DTC(s), and turns on the TPMS indicator(s).
NOTE: Tire pressures increase slightly as the temperature in the tires rises during driving at
highway speeds. Pressures can also increase or decrease slightly with changes in outside air
temperature. A temperature change of about 18°F (10°C) changes tire pressure by about 10 kPa
(0.1 kgf/cm2, 1.5 psi). If the temperature drops, tire pressure could decrease just enough to turn on
the low tire pressure indicator, but later, the tire temperature could increase enough to turn the
indicator off. To resolve a complaint of such intermittent indications, confirm and clear the stored
DTC(s) and check the tire pressures. Then explain to the customer how temperature changes can
affect the system, especially when tire pressures are near the low end of the TPMS normal range -
168 to 220 kPa (1.7 to 2.2 kgf/cm2, 24 to 32 psi).
If a problem is detected in the system, the TPMS indicator comes on and stays on until the system
returns to normal with most DTCs. If DTC 81, 83 or 85 is set, the TPMS indicator goes off only
when the ignition switch is turned to LOCK (0).
When a flat tire is replaced with the spare tire, the TPMS indicator comes on (DTC 32, 34, 36, or
38) because the system is no longer receiving the signal from the tire's transmitter.
After rotating the tires or replacing a tire pressure sensor, drive the vehicle for at least 40 seconds
at a speed of 15 mph (24 km/h) or more, and all the sensor IDs are memorized automatically.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update Information
Tire Pressure Module: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - VT55 TPMS Update
Information
09-070
INTRODUCTION
The software for the VT55 TPMS tool is updated periodically to add new vehicles, fix software
bugs, and enhance the tool's function. You can use the ATEQ update wizard to download software
and firmware to your VT55 using a PC and the Internet. It is extremely important to use the latest
VT55 software to ensure that the current TPMS initialization and diagnostic procedures are used.
American Honda is also introducing a new policy to ensure that VT55 tools are updated promptly.
The VT55 software must now be updated within 3 days of receiving notification of an available
update from an iN message or other Honda communication. If an out-of-date version is used, any
TPMS replacements may not be covered under warranty.
^ VT55 Tool Kit (includes VT55, AC adapter, USB cable and CD): P/N AEQVT55
P/N AEQVT555
^ Internet access
To order the VT55, or the USB connector, go to the Honda Tool and Equipment catalog on the iN
(select Service > Service Bay > Tool and Equipment > Online Catalog), or call.
SOFTWARE VERSION
To check the VT55 version software, turn on the unit and the version number appears for about 2
seconds during the startup process. If you miss it, turn the VT55 off by pressing and holding the
power switch for about 2 seconds, then turn it back on.
1. Go online to
update.ateq.com/software/webvt/update_webvt.zip
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2. Depending on your Internet connection, the Connect to update screen may appear. If so, enter
the login and password.
Login: webvt
Password: update
3. The File Download screen appears. Select Save. The Zip file will be saved to your computer.
4. After the Zip file finishes downloading, open the update - webvt.zip file by double-clicking on it.
5. The WinZip - update - webvt.zip screen appears. Double-click the WebVT55_V4_2.exe file.
NOTE:
If you see a Compressed (Zipped) Folders Error, contact your IT person because there is a
permissions issue with your firewall.
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6. The WinZip Caution screen appears. Select Yes.
7. If you have a previous version of the WebVT software installed on your computer, the
InstallShield Wizard gives you the option to modify, repair, or
If you have a previous software version, select Modify, then Next. After the software is modified
select Finish.
11. The InstallShield Wizard will prompt you when WebVT is installed on your computer. Select
Finish.
12. The serial emulation port driver installer screen appears. Connect your VT55, and turn it on.
Select Next.
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13. After a few seconds, the serial emulation port driver installer prompts you when it is finished.
Select Finish.
14. If you have any problems installing the VT55 update software, call ATEQ at 734-838-3100, and
select option 2 for service.
NOTE:
^ Some screens may list the tool as VT5O or VT55. This is OK; it will not affect updating the tool.
^ If at any time during the update an error message appears, or the VT55 is not detected, see the
Standard User Guide that is on the ATEQ CD that came with the tool, or call ATEQ at
734-838-3100, and select option 2 for service.
1. Go to your desktop, and double-click the WebVT icon to launch the VT55 update software.
2. Connect the VT55 to your PC with the USB cable, then turn it on. The serial number and current
software version automatically display.
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3. The Found New Hardware Wizard may appear. If it does, select Yes, now and every time I
connect a device, then select Next.
4. The Found New Hardware Wizard prompts you to install the ATEQ R5232 Emulation software.
Select Install the software automatically
5. The Found New Hardware Wizard will prompt you when the software is installed. Select Finish.
6. Select UPDATE DEVICE. Depending on your Internet connection, you may be prompted for a
login and password. If you know your login and
password, enter them, otherwise, contact your administrator or internet service provider for the
login and password.
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7. If a new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to update the
VT55. Select Yes.
NOTE:
Do not disconnect the VT55 during the update procedure, as you may permanently damage the
tool.
If no new software version is available, you'll see a message asking if you want to overwrite the
existing software. Select No.
8. The Dealer Identification screen appears. Enter your 6-digit dealer number, then select Apply.
9. If the dealer number is valid, your dealership's name and address appears in the dealer
information box. Select NEXT.
If the dealership number is not valid, call the American Honda Special Tools Hotline for assistance.
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10. The VT55 begins updating. When the VT55 is finished updating, you'll see a message stating
the update is done. Disconnect the VT55, then select
OK.
11. Let the VT55 turn off (for about 1 minute). Turn it on, and confirm that the software is updated
to the software version listed under SOFTWARE
VERSION.
12. If you have more than one VT55, repeat the update procedure for each unit.
13. Once all VT55s are updated, select EXIT, and store the USB cable in a safe location for future
updates.
Disclaimer
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Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8317
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit mounting bracket is not bent or twisted as this may affect
its communication with the tire pressure sensors.
1. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 2. Remove the driver's dashboard undercover. 3.
Disconnect the TPMS control unit connector (A).
4. Remove the TPMS control unit (B) from the bracket (C).
NOTE: To disconnect the TPMS control unit from its bracket, insert a small flat-tipped screwdriver
between the TPMS control unit and the bracket shown in (D) to release the hook, then slide out the
TPMS unit.
5. Replace the bracket if necessary. 6. Install the TPMS control unit in the reverse order of
removal.
NOTE: Make sure the TPMS control unit is properly installed. You will hear a click when the TPMS
control unit is securely mounted on the bracket.
7. Connect the HDS, and memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer
tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Monitor Receiver / Transponder: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System -
Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8326
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8328
8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8330
procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8331
ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8332
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8333
You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8335
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8336
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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Monitor Receiver / Transponder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of
TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8337
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8338
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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TPMS Sensor Tools > Page 8339
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor Tools
Tire Pressure Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Tire Monitor System - Usage of TPMS Sensor
Tools
06-072
(Supersedes 06-072, dated January 5, 2007, to update the information marked by the black bars
and asterisks)
*VEHICLES AFFECTED
INTRODUCTION
Beginning with some 2007 models, Honda is using a second type of TPMS (tire pressure
monitoring system) that does not use initiators like the 2006 and earlier
TPMS.
^ Are mounted on the inside of the rim, connected to the valve stem.
^ Use a wireless transmission to send tire pressure and temperature information to the TPMS unit.
^ Use non-replaceable batteries. To save battery life, the sensors turn on only when the vehicle is
being used.
*The first type of TPMS (all vehicles through 2006) uses initiators mounted above each wheel.
When you turn the ignition switch to ON (II), the initiators send out a low frequency signal to turn on
the TPMS sensors. The initiator, in conjunction with the TPMS control unit, determines the tire
location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the customer sees the low tire pressure
indicator and an indiction that the right front tire is low on pressure. The initiator-type TPMS, or
location-type TPMS (in the HDS), is used on the 2005-08 Pilot, the 2006-08 Ridgeline, and the
2005-08 Odyssey Touring models.*
The new TPMS does not use initiators. The TPMS sensors have a built-in acceleration sensor that
turns on the TPMS sensors when the vehicle speed reaches about 25 mph. Without an initiator, the
TPMS control unit cannot determine tire location. For example, if the right front tire is low on air, the
customer sees only the low pressure indicator and must check all four tires to find the problem tire.
During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit provides a code for each tire.
NOTE:
^ During diagnosis, the TPMS control unit gives a tire number, but you need to do the sensor
position check to find the location of the tire number.
^ Use with HDS software version 2.011.010 or later. The initiator-less TPMS, or no location-type
TPMS, is used on vehicles affected by this bulletin.
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A TPMS sensor tool is used for troubleshooting and replacing the TPMS sensors. See TOOL
DESCRIPTION for more information.
WARRANTY CLAIM INFORMATION
None.
TOOL INFORMATION
TOOL DESCRIPTION
The TPMS sensor tool is a wireless tool that is used with the HDS for troubleshooting (sensor
position check) and for replacing TPMS sensors or the control unit (sensor ID learning).
General use:
^ Always make sure the TPMS sensor tool is set to low power unless otherwise instructed.
*^ Make sure there are no vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the vehicle
you are working on.
^ Make sure the batteries are in good condition and secure in the case. Refer to ServiceNews
article A07050D, Keep Those TPMS Sensor Tool Batteries From Popping Loose, for more
information.*
^ Turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the HDS instructions. There are two different
wavelengths used, and there are two ways to turn on the TPMS sensor tool. If the TPMS sensor
tool is not turned on correctly, you won't be able to troubleshoot the vehicle or do the sensor ID
learning procedure.
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^ Turn off the TPMS sensor tool by pressing and holding the small button as shown until the green
light in the button turns off. The tool will also turn off after 5 minutes of inactivity.
NOTE:
Offset your finger, or use just your nail to push the buttons, so you can see the light in the buttons.
Two AC adapters are included in the TPMS sensor tool kit. The 900 AC adapter is for the battery
charger. Use the straight AC adapter to power the TPMS sensor tool when charged batteries are
not available.
NOTE:
^ The AC adapter does not charge the batteries in the TPMS sensor tool.
^ Remove the batteries from the TPMS sensor tool when using the AC adapter.
There are two ways to charge the batteries. The method to use depends on the batteries' state of
charge. For brand new or fully discharged batteries:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
3. Plug the charger into a power outlet. The LEDs turn red, and quick charging begins.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button while the batteries are charging, the battery discharge mode begins.
Press the red button again within 30 seconds, and the charger switches back to its quick charge
mode.
^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
For charging batteries when you don't know the state of charge:
1. Connect the AC adapter to the charger (make sure you use the AC adapter with the 90° bend).
2. Insert the batteries into the charger. Make sure you note the polarity (direction) of the batteries.
4. Press the red button once to start the discharge mode. The LEDs blink red.
NOTE:
^ If the LEDs do not come on, check that the batteries are properly installed. If the LEDs still do not
come on, replace the batteries.
^ If you press the red button a second time within 30 seconds, the battery quick charge mode
begins.
^ Once the batteries are discharged, the LEDs turn solid red and the battery quick charge mode
begins.
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^ When the LEDs turn green, the batteries are charged, and the battery charger automatically
switches to trickle charge mode.
^ Remove the batteries from the charger when it is not plugged in.
When the TPMS sets a DTC, it refers to Tire 1, Tire 2, Tire 3, or Tire 4. In the service manual, the
tire number is the sensor number. For example, Tire 2 is sensor 2.
However, the tire number is not the tire position. To diagnose or repair the vehicle, do the sensor
position check to find the location of the problem tire (or sensor) on the vehicle.
7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
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8. In the Mode menu, select Functional Tests, then select the Enter button.
9. In the Functional Test menu, select Sensor Position Check, then select the Enter button.
*10. On the Sensor Position Check screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. (The Accord is shown on the sample
screen.)*
NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
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11. Follow the instructions on the Sensor Position Check screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the Sensor Position Check screen changes to an operation
progress bar.
* NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When the blue bar appears, use the TPMS sensor tool.*
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen. The TPMS control unit must
read the sensor ID five times to complete the learning
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procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor
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ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS
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NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensors to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
22. The sensor position check is complete. Using the DTC(s) and the information on the Sensor
Position Check screen, locate the problem tire.
If the vehicle has DTC 22-1,this means that the problem is in tire 2 (sensor 2).
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You must refer to the Sensor Position Check screen to see what location tire 2 is in. Do not
assume it is in position 2 (left rear tire).
According to the Sensor Position Check screen tire 2 is in position 1, the left front tire.
SENSOR ID LEARNING
NOTE:
Even if you replace only one sensor, the Sensor ID Learning procedure must be done to all four
wheels.
6. In the Select Mode menu, select Honda Systems, and select the Enter button.
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7. In the System Selection Menu, select TPMS, then select the Enter button.
8. In the Mode Menu, select Sensor ID Learning, then select the Enter button.
NOTE:
Make sure there are no other vehicles or other wheels with TPMS sensors within 10 feet of the
vehicle you are working on.
10. On the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen, turn on the TPMS sensor tool by following the
on-screen instructions. The Accord is shown on the sample screen.
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NOTE:
Each model is different. Turning on the TPMS sensor tool incorrectly could lead to incorrect
diagnosis and repair.
Once the TPMS sensor tool is turned on, select the YES button.
11. Follow the instructions on the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen. When prompted, go to the left
front wheel, then select the Enter button.
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12. Wait about 5 seconds, and the TPMS Sensor ID Learning screen should change to an
operation progress bar.
NOTE:
^ Wait for the timer to start. When you see the blue bar, use the TPMS sensor tool.
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
13. Point and hold the TPMS sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left front wheel valve stem. Press
and hold the large transmit button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS
sensor tool sends a signal to the TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the
TPMS control unit.
14. Watch for the TPMS sensor IDs to appear on the HDS screen The TPMS control unit must read
the sensor ID five times to complete the learning procedure.
NOTE:
15. The TPMS sensor ID learning changes to the following screen once the procedure is complete.
Select the Enter button.
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NOTE:
If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
16. When prompted, go to the left rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
17. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the left rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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18. When prompted, go to the right rear wheel, then select the Enter button.
19. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right rear wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
20. When prompted, go to the right front wheel, then select the Enter button.
21. The TPMS sensor ID learning procedure goes through the same steps as the left front wheel
(see steps 12 thru 15). When the timer starts (the blue bar appears), point and hold the TPMS
sensor tool 10 to 20 inches from the right front wheel valve stem. Press and hold the large transmit
button for up to 1 minute. The button should flash red. The TPMS sensor tool sends a signal to the
TPMS sensor to turn on and broadcast the TPMS sensor ID to the TPMS control unit.
NOTE:
^ If the sensor IDs appear without the TPMS sensor tool button being pushed, a TPMS sensor is
transmitting. Select the Exit button, wait 5 minutes for the sensor to go to sleep, then follow the
on-screen prompts.
^ If the sensor does not respond (no sensor IDs are displayed), rotate the tire one-quarter turn and
try again. If the TPMS sensor does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, switch the tire to a
known-good location and try again. If the TPMS sensor still does not respond after one full rotation
of the tire, replace the TPMS sensor.
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22. The sensor ID learning procedure is complete. Select the Enter button to continue to register
the TPMS sensor IDs in the TPMS unit.
23. The low tire pressure indicator is flashing and requires road-testing the vehicle. On the TPMS
Sensor ID Learning screen, select the Enter button.
24. Drive the vehicle for 2 minutes above 30 mph, or until the low tire pressure indicator goes off.
Once the indicator goes off, stop the vehicle.
25. In the Mode Menu, select the Data List, and then select the Enter button. Check the tire
pressure at all four tires to confirm that the TPMS control unit is reading the correct tire pressures.
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26. Return to the Mode Menu, select DTCs, then select the Enter button.
Disclaimer
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Memorizing the Tire Pressure Sensor ID
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
All four tire pressure sensor IDs must be memorized to the TPMS control unit whenever you do any
of these actions:
NOTE: ^
To ensure the control unit memorizes the correct ID, the vehicle with the new sensor must be at
least 10 ft (3 m) away from other vehicles that have tire pressure sensors.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), wait 5 minutes or more for the TPMS sensors to go to sleep
mode. Connect the HDS to the data link
connector (DLC) (A) located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Sensor ID Learning from the
mode menu on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts turn on the TPMS sensor initializer tool
(A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Hold the TPMS sensor initializer tool near one wheel, memorize the pressure sensor ID by
following the screen prompts on the HDS.
NOTE: ^
If you turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0) before memorizing all four sensor IDs, the memorizing ID
is canceled.
7. Repeat step 6 for each wheel until all four sensor IDs are memorized. When all four IDs are
memorized, the low tire pressure indicator blinks. 8. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 9.
Disconnect the HDS from the DLC.
10. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 11. Make sure the low
tire pressure indicator does not blink. 12. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0). 13. Reduce the
pressure in one tire until it is less than the appropriate specification. 14. Turn the ignition switch to
ON (II). 15. Test-drive the vehicle at 28 mph (45 km/h) or more for at least 1 minute. 16. Make sure
the low tire pressure indicator turns on, then inflate the tire back to specifications. 17. Repeat step
12 to 16 for all the other tires. 18. Clear any DTCs with the HDS.
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Tire Pressure Sensor: Testing and Inspection Tire Pressure Sensor Location
TPMS sensor initializer tool AKS0620006 Available through the Honda Tool and Equipment
Program; call 888-424-6857
NOTE: This procedure locates where the tire pressure sensors number 1, 2, 3, 4 are mounted,
when activated by the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
^ Memorizing tire pressure sensor IDs (including replacing the TPMS control unit, or the tire
pressure sensors).
^ Wheel rotation.
1. With the ignition switch in LOCK (0), connect the HDS to the data link connector (DLC) (A)
located under the driver's side of the dashboard.
2. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). 3. Make sure the HDS communicates with the vehicle and the
TPMS control unit. If it doesn't, troubleshoot the DLC circuit. 4. Select Function Test from the mode
menu, then select Sensor Position Check on the HDS. 5. Follow HDS screen prompts to turn on
the TPMS sensor initializer tool (A). Verify the power switch (B) is in the "Low" position.
6. Follow the prompts on the HDS to activate the tire pressure sensors using the TPMS sensor
initializer tool. Start with the left-front (LF) wheel.
NOTE: ^
7. Check the HDS screen, and note the active sensor reception order of the tire pressure sensor 1,
2, 3, 4.
NOTE: If the sensor does not respond to the TPMS initializer, rotate the tire 1/4 turn and retry. If
the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, swap the tire to a known-good
location and retry. If the sensor still does not respond after one full rotation of the tire, replace the
tire pressure sensor.
8. Note the sensor location for reference. 9. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK (0).
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Removal
1. Raise the vehicle, and support it with safety stands in the proper locations. 2. Remove the wheel
with the faulty sensor. 3. Remove the tire valve stem cap and the valve stem core to deflate the
tire. 4. Remove any balance weights, and then break the bead loose from the wheel with a
commercially available tire changer (A).
NOTICE: Note these items to avoid damaging the tire pressure sensor: ^
^ Position the wheel as shown so the valve stem (B) is 90 degrees from the bead breaker (C) as
shown.
^ Do not position the bead breaker of the tire changer too close to the rim.
5. Position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron (B) are next to the valve stem (C)
and will move away from it when the machine
6. Remove the valve stem nut (A) and the washer (B), then remove the tire pressure sensor with
the valve stem (C) from the wheel.
NOTE: Check the nut and the washer, if they have deterioration or damage, replace them with new
ones during reassembly.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8371
7. Remove and replace the valve stem grommet (A) from the tire pressure sensor (B).
NOTE: ^
The valve stem grommet might stay in the wheel; make sure you remove it.
^ Always use a new valve stem grommet whenever the tire pressure sensor has been removed
from the wheel. When only removing a tire from the wheel, or when replacing the tire.
Installation
NOTE: Use only wheels that have a "TPMS" stamp (A) on them.
1. Before installing the tire pressure sensor, clean the mating surfaces on the sensor and the
wheel. 2. Install the tire pressure sensor (A) and the washer (B) to the wheel (C), and tighten the
valve stem nut (D) finger tight. Make sure the pressure
NOTE: Install the tire pressure sensor so that the sensor housing surface (E) should not exceed
the protrusion (F) of the wheel to prevent the sensor housing caught in the bead of the tire when
assembling the tire. Do not twist the sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators > Tire Monitoring System > Tire Pressure
Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 8372
damage or deform the valve stem grommet.
3. Tighten the valve stem nut to the specified torque while holding the tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: ^
Do not use air or electric impact tools to tighten a valve stem nut.
^ Do not twist the tire pressure sensor to adjust its position with the wheel, as this will damage or
deform the valve stem grommet.
4. Lube the tire bead sparingly, and position the wheel so that the tire machine (A) and the tire iron
(B) are next to the valve stem (C) and will move
away from it when the machine starts. Then install the tire onto the wheel.
5. With a dry air source, inflate the tire to 300 kPa (3.1 kgf/cm2, 44 psi) to seat the tire bead to the
rim, then adjust the tire pressure, then install the
NOTE: Make sure the tire bead is seated on both sides of the rim uniformly.
6. Check and adjust the wheel balance, then install the wheels on the vehicle. 7. Remove the jack
stands, and lower the vehicle. Torque the wheel nuts to specifications. 8. Connect the HDS, and
memorize the tire pressure sensor IDs using the TPMS sensor initializer tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Backup Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8378
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8379
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8381
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Information and Instructions > Page 8382
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Information and Instructions > Page 8383
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Information and Instructions > Page 8384
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Information and Instructions > Page 8385
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Information and Instructions > Page 8386
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8387
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8388
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8392
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8394
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8395
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8396
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8397
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8398
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8399
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8400
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8401
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8402
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8403
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8404
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8405
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information and Instructions > Page 8406
Diagram 110-11
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Brake Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8412
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 8413
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8415
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Information and Instructions > Page 8416
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Information and Instructions > Page 8417
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Information and Instructions > Page 8418
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8419
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8420
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8421
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8422
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8426
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8428
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8429
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8430
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8431
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8432
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8433
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8434
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8435
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8436
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information and Instructions > Page 8437
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Information and Instructions > Page 8438
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8439
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Information and Instructions > Page 8440
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch > Component Information > Description and
Operation
Brake Light Switch: Description and Operation
The brake pedal position switch signals the PCM when the brake pedal is pressed.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Center Mounted Brake Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams
3. Remove the rear shelf. 4. Remove the high mount brake light (A).
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8454
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8455
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8459
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8460
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8462
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8463
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8464
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8468
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8470
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Courtesy Lamp > Console Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8471
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8472
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8473
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8474
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8475
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8477
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8478
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8479
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8480
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8482
Console Lamp: Electrical Diagrams
Diagram 114-0
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8483
Diagram 114-1
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8484
Diagram 114-2
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8485
Diagram 114-3
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Diagram 114-4
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Daytime Running Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
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Information and Instructions > Page 8491
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
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All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8496
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Information and Instructions > Page 8499
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8500
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8501
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8505
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8507
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8508
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
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Information and Instructions > Page 8509
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8510
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8511
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8512
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
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8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8515
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8516
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8517
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8518
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dimmer Switch > Component Information > Diagrams
1. Remove the subdisplay visor and disconnect its connectors. 2. Remove the two screws and the
dash lights brightness controller-odometer select/reset switch (A).
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulbs (B) or the dash lights brightness
controller-odometer select/reset switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Dome Lamp: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8527
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8528
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
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Information and Instructions > Page 8530
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Information and Instructions > Page 8531
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Information and Instructions > Page 8532
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Information and Instructions > Page 8533
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8534
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8535
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8536
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8537
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8541
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8543
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8544
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8545
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8546
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8547
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.
Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too
short or when access to the connector is too restricted to make a terminal repair.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from
Pin Tool Set.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8548
2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal,
then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.
NOTE: If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will
not nick or cut off any strands of wires.
3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and
same diameter bare wire). 4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit
onto the stripped end of the original wire.
5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place. 6. Lay the
pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more
than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at
the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the
harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enough to the terminal so you will have room to make
each remaining cut about 20 mm (3/4 inch) farther down on the next pigtail.
7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about 6 mm (1/4 inch) of insulation off the ends
of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue
NOTE: If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the
stripper.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8549
8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the
flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click,
squeeze the handles slightly and push the release lever, then let the handles open.
9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the
wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until
the ratchet clicks again.
10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector. 11. After
crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the
connector.
12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire (s), and shield them with
nonflammable material.
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8550
13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the
gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete
when a small amount of sealant appears at each end of the tube.
NOTE: Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.
Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the
wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtail terminal part number. Then use the color (size)
splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select
the proper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in
quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.
Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the
Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspect the terminal fit between the two matching
connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.
1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8551
2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.
NOTE: Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal
because it would spread the female terminal and cause a loose fit.
3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal
with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting
Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint.
Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
problem area.
Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by
tracing the current paths from the power source through the circuit components to ground (certain
circuits contain a "How the Circuit Works" Diagram set). Also, trace circuits that share wiring with
the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the same fuse, ground, or switch, and so on,
are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step
1. If the shared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used
only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, the fuse or ground is a likely
cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more
possible causes.
Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple
procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting. Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to
make tests at points that are easily accessible.
Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe
procedures.
Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire
problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sure to test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure
no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.
Test Equipment
Test Equipment
CAUTION: Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a
1O-megaohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on
circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up
of a 12 volt bulb with a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to
various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is
voltage at the point being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital
volt/ohmmeter (DVOM). If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is
between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).
In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low
resistance means good continuity.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8552
Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a
reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. If the readings differ, the component is
affecting the measurement.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Jumper Wire
Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder
connected to a set of test leads. It should have a five ampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire
across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.
To order any test equipment shown, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool
numbers, refer to Honda Required Special Tools and Equipment Service Bulletin.
Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions
Before Troubleshooting
1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box. 2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and
clean and tight connections.
CAUTION: -
Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will
damage the alternator diodes.
- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely
damage the wiring.
1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.
2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part
Number: 08798-9001. 3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.
CAUTION: -
Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8553
- Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a 10-mega
ohm or higher impedance digital multimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that
contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.
Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests
When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt
ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check. 3. If the test light
glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be
within one volt of measured battery
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two
halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connector from the back. Always check both sides of
the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical
contact = an open).
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest
"OHMS" range.
2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you
want to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the other end.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8554
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or
no reading (zero), means good continuity.
Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A
voltage drop of more than one volt indicates a problem. Circuits must be operating when checking
voltage drop.
1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive
lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or
switch). 3. Turn on the components in the circuit. 4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage
between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts
range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.
3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six
inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM. 4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM
voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.
NOTE: Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with
battery voltage present).
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8555
Diagram 114-5
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8557
Diagram 114-7
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8558
Diagram 114-8
Diagrams: Other diagrams referred to by number (See Diagram ##-#, etc.) within these diagrams
can be found at Diagrams by Number. See: Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Diagrams By Number
Locations: Location photographs (references to PHOTOS) referred to within these diagrams can be
found at Locations by Photo Number. See: Locations/Component Locations/Locations By Photo
Number
Connector Views: Connector terminal views (references to VIEWS) referred to within these
diagrams can be found at Connector Views by View Number. See: Diagrams/Connector
Views/Connector Views By View Number
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Dome Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8559
1. Turn the ceiling light switch OFF. 2. Carefully pry the lens (A) off with a small screwdriver.
3. Remove the screws, then remove the ceiling light (B). 4. Disconnect the 3P connector (C) from
the ceiling light. 5. Check for continuity between the terminals.
- There should be continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals with the switch in the MIDDLE
position.
- There should be continuity between the No. 2 and No. 3 (Body ground) terminals with the switch
in the ON position.
- There should be no continuity between the No. 1 and No. 2 terminals and the No. 2 and No. 3
(body ground) terminals with the switch in the OFF position.
6. If the continuity is not as specified, check the bulb. If the bulb is OK, replace the light. 7. Install in
the reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Door Switch > Component Information > Locations
Door Switch: Locations
- With audio.
- With navigation.
3. Check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the table.
4. If the continuity is not as specified, replace the bulb (A) or the hazard warning switch.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Headlamp > Headlamp Bulb > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Bulb Replacement
Headlight
1. Disconnect the 2P connector (A) from the headlight.
2. Turn the bulb socket 45° counterclockwise to remove the bulb. 3. Install a new bulb in the
reverse order of removal.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Horn > Horn Switch > Component Information > Locations
7. Horn Switch
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Interior Lighting Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Circuit Schematics
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8590
Circuit Schematics
Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show
current flow, from power at the top of the diagram, to ground at the bottom.
Shared Circuits
Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that
connects one circuit to another, for example, is cut short and has an arrowhead at the end of it
pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or
component which shares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring, check the operation of a
component it serves. If that component works, you know the shared wiring is OK.
Connectors
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8591
All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416, etc.). Component connectors are
not numbered but are identified either by the name of the component if the component only has
one connector, or by a capital letter (A, B, C, etc.) if the component has more than one connector.
Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The
PHOTO number refers to a photo at Vehicle Level Locations that shows the connector's location on
the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at the Vehicle Level Connector Views that
shows the connector terminals, wire colors, connector cavity numbers, and other details.
The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen
from either of the viewpoints. Except for the DLC (data link connector), disregard any numbers
molded into the connector housing.
Wires
Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the
stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in a connector. The number "2" next to the male
and female wire terminals at C554, for example, means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector
C554.
Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to
various circuits in the vehicle. Refer to the Power Distribution Diagram Set to get a more detailed
understanding of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit
schematics begin with a fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another
circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, you know the fuse is good
and power is available to the inoperative circuit.
This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same
ground point.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8593
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8594
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Information and Instructions > Page 8595
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Information and Instructions > Page 8596
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Information and Instructions > Page 8597
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Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8598
How to Identify Connector Terminals
Connector terminals are numbered according to the cavities they are in. The cavities are numbered
starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side or looking at the
female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the
same. All actual cavities are numbered, even if they have no wire terminals in them.
NOTE: Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not
the Honda standard. The numbers of the four end terminals are molded into the corners of the
connector face.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8599
The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The
cavity/terminal shown above is #6.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8600
The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice
connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connector terminals. However, not all terminals for
all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement
terminal availability.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate
harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models,
wire harnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness;
do not repair it.
Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the
wire will be long enough to make a terminal repair without stretching it when you reinstall the
terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to
make a terminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a
factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS.
- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the
secondary terminal locks; however, the connector you are repairing may vary in size. Identify the
connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8604
1. Remove the secondary locks.
2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female). 3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW
TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE F:
3. Remove the terminal from the male half. 4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of
connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, the connector you are repairing may vary
in size and shape.
EXAMPLE A:
EXAMPLE B:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8606
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE C:
EXAMPLE D:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8607
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE E:
EXAMPLE F:
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8608
1. Remove the terminal. 2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.
EXAMPLE G:
1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct
replacement terminal based on the wire size range
NOTE: If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part
number listed on the inside lid of the terminal repair kit. Replacement terminals are available
through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.
2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8609
3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the
wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)
NOTE: After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did,
cut the wire off even with the insulation, and strip it again.
4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the
anvil and the open section toward the former. 5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown
in step 3.
6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.
- If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool
over the insulation crimp section of the terminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the
stops make contact.
- If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully
squeeze the crimp closed until its ends are touching and making a full-circle shape.
Honda Civic Workshop Manual (L4-1.3L Hybrid (2008))
Honda Workshop Manuals > Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8610
8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the shown NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and
start over. 9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the
way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.